Thank you for this explanation! My spatially challenged brain is going..."maybe I'll just make skirts!" 😂 but I subscribed and I'll rewatch again and again until I figure it out. 😊
Welcome aboard!! If you want to dip your toe into making pants try a wide leg trouser that has breathing room between yourself and the inside of the legs! Fitting this style of pants is almost as easy as fitting a skirt because the final shape of the crotch doesn't matter so much (because it's not touching you) ...Here's a video tutorial that I shared my experience with the High Waist Wide Leg Pants from Peppermint Magazine. This pdf pattern is a free download, link is in the description of the video! Thanks for watching
For me, pant alterations are confusing because it’s hard to think about the inside room, which always seems opposite of what you’d expect. You’d think bigger seams would be tighter, but not so! I’m so happy you’ve explained this because it seems counter intuitive. Yay, Jen!
It is confusing!!! Technically, when you sew deeper crotch seams along the STRAIGHT part of the edge, you are taking fabric away from the width of the pants... so you may need to let out the side seam to maintain that measurement. When you scoop the base of the crotch curve, you're picking up fabric under your behind, so the ease is not affected.... Taking in the side seams just make the pants tighter! Hope that helps, thanks for following along
Wow... thank you for those kind words... I love fitting and playing with different ways to adjust pattern pieces, Thank you for following along with me
Very, very helpful! Thanks so much for sharing! I haven’t made pants yet because of the need to scoop my muslin. You explained it for me to understand better. 😊
Thank you. You called the angle of the front crotch a dart… I now grasp at a basic level how that works now. That always confused me on how to adjust for fit and style. I know how darts shape, so just change the dart (where half is missing). Thank you.
Jennifer, this is a little mini masterclass! Thank you for sharing the front and back crotch angle information. I have reached an age where I expect fat distribution to start … uh … shifting, and I’ll need some new tools to address how that changes pant and skirt fit. 👍👍
:) You can do it!! Have you heard of the Jan Minott Method? Her books are part drafting part fitting for your shape. These books are out of print, but you an purchase a digital copy here: www.sewinganddesignschool.com/module/class/240658/book-the-minott-method-skirts-and-pants--digital-version Keep us posted if you need help! Thanks for watching :)
Hi, I really like watching your vidios. That will be great if you will add the picures what actually hapends after changings❤ That will be very helpfull for me to understanding what change will be better for me. Thank you for your classes. ❤
Crotch adjustments hurt my brain! I watch and re-watch and think yes, I’m getting it and then BAM, I’m confused again. I have finally gotten a StyleArc pant pattern to fit decently but I’m still intimidated to try another pair. Your videos never disappoint. Thank you.
:) Sometimes my brain hurts too :))) Once you make your first pair of pants that fit... Made notes of what works and what didn't so you can apply that to the next process... eventually, you'll become familiar with the shapes that work for you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for the kind words... Be gentle with yourself, sewing a more than just a skill...it's kinda like a therapy of sorts... and everyone starts somewhere! Thanks for following along with me
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have a short rise in the back and I’ve been driving myself crazy trying to figure out how to make the proper adjustments. I can’t wait to try your recommendations.
I learned this when fitting my daughter who has some hormonal problems! She accidentally put them on backwards and said they felt right! I adjusted her front crotch to make it deeper and it was the best fitting pants I had ever made!
I am always so impressed by your explanations! You are a wonderful teacher!! One question about lengthening rise, why do you pivot? Traditional patterns just have you cut all of the way across and add length. I've done that but have never been happy with the results.
Thanks so much for the kind words... and that's a great question. I shared how to lengthen the back rise in this tutorial. Pivoting at the side seam creates a situation where you do not have to adjust the other leg, because the side seam length is the same. If you needed to raise the position of the waistband all the way around, you would cut all the way across and spread the pattern to add length & you need to make a like adjustment to the other leg so the side seams match in length. Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video explanation thank you. A question I have… when doing a swayback adjustment do I put back that amount to the side seam? Also how do I fix the grainline?
Here is a tutorial showing how to do a sway back adjustment on pants... To re establish the grainline... line your ruler up with the grainline below the adjustment and extend it back up :) th-cam.com/video/Bk-ni_ylIic/w-d-xo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
❤❤❤❤❤ I needed this video so much. I am still learning, and purchased pants, for me, are so frustrating because my waist is proportionally much smaller than my hips, the opposite of many people. So I definitely don’t have a rectangle shape. My measurements are waist 33.5 and hips 43 with a flat butt. So would I redraw the waist-to-crotch line more to the right as shown near the beginning of your video (2:08) and then take away space in the side seam? You are so good at explaining things. The concept of negative and positive space is a new way of thinking for me, but I’m starting to grasp it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for such professional well-made videos. 😊
:) In the front, you can angle the CF edge 1/2" - 5/8" from CF to create a curved waistline in the front to fit your defined waistline. In the back, straighten the CB edge. This does add to the back waistline measurement... trim off a like amount from the side seam. & if the pants pattern has two back waist darts on each leg, you only need one for a flat behind. Hope these suggestions help. Thanks for fitting along with me
Wonderful video! For someone who has a prominent tummy and back, what are the right adjustments? I feel like I need to make the lines less straight, and make them leaning towards the side seams to increase the negative space. Then, I would add the same amount to each side seam. Am I on the right track? Do I need to alter the inseam? Thanks so much.
Yes... Especially if you have a smaller defined waistline... Angling in the CF/CB will create more negative space inside and help fit the waistline. Thanks for watching
Thanks! I havea flat saggy butt (thanks, aging) and stand with my hips forward, so there’s always bagginess under my butt. I also have only 5” difference between my waist and my butt. I’ve bee scooping the back crotch, but it doesn’t seem to work. I’ll try straightening the cb seam, hope that works! I’ve been through several muslins and there always seems to be butt bagginess no matter what I do…😢
If you find that your pants and skirts lay against your behind and the back of your legs because your hips tilt forward, you may also need a shorter rise in the back and a longer rise in the front to go along with a straighter CB edge :) (Try putting your pants on backwards and see how they fit... this can give you a good idea of how much curve you may need in the front too!) Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Unfortunately, it's harder to try to copy a crotch curve onto another pants pattern vs. fitting the new pants pattern in most cases. You can use the shape of a crotch that fits as a guide to help fit a new pattern... but when I lay my pants patterns out, all the crotch shapes are a little bit different. I wish I had a better answer for you! Thanks for watching
This is a very informative video - as are all of your videos. What crotch adjustment would be best for a full abdomen and a full buttock? Would it be the bottom started straightening of the crotch line?
When I showed how to "straighten" the CB to make less room inside... You would do the opposite... make a more angled CB seam to create more room inside. :) I would adjust the back crotch for a full buttock and then see how the muslin is fitting before adjusting the front for a full abdomen... Depending on your shape, you may need a longer front crotch curve or a prominent tummy adjustment, but I like to see if the fabric is pulling in the front before addressing that. (Not all prominent tummies need a prominent tummy adjustment) Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Re shortening or lengthening the crotch line and then correcting the angle of it and correcting the side seam. Would it not be easier to add/remove from the crotch curve right at the top of the pattern, at the waist thus eliminating the need for those secondary corrections? Why slice through the middle of it causes secondary issues? I am so confused lol
That is a great question! Think of the back crotch curve as a Chair. There are two parts to this "Chair" The straight part from waist to right before the curve. This is the chair back. The second section, from the curve to the tip of the crotch point is the seat of the chair. If you need to adjust the position of the waistband... making it higher or lower, you would add to the top of the straight part at the waistline. But if you need more "sitting room" because your pants slide down when you sit or if it's snug at your upper thigh, you need to adjust the curved section to make the seat of the chair longer. If you're pants are sliding down & you add to the top of the straight part, the pants will still slide down, the waistline edge will just be higher. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Yes... The principles are the same... but knits are much more forgiving and the adjustments are smaller because the stretch of the fabric helps to accommodate the curves of your body. Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi J. If we had one pair of pants with a perfectly fitted Crotch, how would we copy that from a tracing? I'm thinking that if we started from that point, then we could... LOL TDCO! Never mind. Thanks Sweetie!
That's a great question... It's a little bit count intuitive. Think about digging a hole in the sand. The more you scoop out sand, the deeper or bigger the hole gets. The same thing is true with the crotch curves. I scooped out the front crotch curve, making more room inside the pants. But I also removed fabric from the width of the front leg where I scooped... so you may need to let out the side seam a little bit... I talked about this when I showed how to scoop the back crotch curve. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
This is too advanced for me. >_< I am very confused. What is a balance line - is it the same as the so-called 'princess line'? How do I know if my crotch has a rectangular shape - ask somebody late at night? ^_^ I also had trouble following all those sketch lines. I'm a mess. Thank you.
Sorry about that... A balance line is the vertical line on the pattern that also agrees with the straight of grain on the fabric. If the balance line is also centered on the leg from hem to knee, it's called a center balance line ... This can help you keep track of the shape of your pattern as you make fitting adjustments. To make it more exciting... the vertical balance line is also called a "grainline"... because it should be positioned parallel to the selvage edges of the fabric when you cut them out. Here's a tutorial showing how the position of the center balance line/grainline on pants pattern can affect the fit. th-cam.com/video/WH1egCJ3J_s/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, thanks for watching
I think jumping in and making a pair of pants is a great way to get started... Here's Part 1 of my Trouble Shooting Pants Fitting Series where I show how to pick a size and trace the pieces, plus adjusting the CF/CB angle for your shape. Parts 2-4 show some body specific adjustments like reducing ease on the back leg & adding fitting allowances... preparing the pants fit muslin and sewing it together... just in case you want to check that out! th-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/w-d-xo.html Happy Pants Fitting!
LOL "If you want to create less saggyness at your back view". I wish that worked for when pants are off!
Love the lesson. Thank you J!
:)))) Me too!!! Thanks for watching
Thank you for this explanation! My spatially challenged brain is going..."maybe I'll just make skirts!" 😂 but I subscribed and I'll rewatch again and again until I figure it out. 😊
Welcome aboard!! If you want to dip your toe into making pants try a wide leg trouser that has breathing room between yourself and the inside of the legs! Fitting this style of pants is almost as easy as fitting a skirt because the final shape of the crotch doesn't matter so much (because it's not touching you) ...Here's a video tutorial that I shared my experience with the High Waist Wide Leg Pants from Peppermint Magazine. This pdf pattern is a free download, link is in the description of the video! Thanks for watching
For me, pant alterations are confusing because it’s hard to think about the inside room, which always seems opposite of what you’d expect. You’d think bigger seams would be tighter, but not so! I’m so happy you’ve explained this because it seems counter intuitive. Yay, Jen!
It is confusing!!! Technically, when you sew deeper crotch seams along the STRAIGHT part of the edge, you are taking fabric away from the width of the pants... so you may need to let out the side seam to maintain that measurement. When you scoop the base of the crotch curve, you're picking up fabric under your behind, so the ease is not affected.... Taking in the side seams just make the pants tighter! Hope that helps, thanks for following along
I’m never disappointed when I watch your videos. Thank you for sharing all your wisdom.
I'm so happy to hear! Thank you for fitting along with me
Very helpful. I’m so glad you present this info again and again…eventually we start to understand. 👍
Glad it was helpful! ... I love looking a different ways to look at the same things!! Thanks for following along with me!
Thanks so much. You’re the best out there for alterations x
Wow... thank you for those kind words... I love fitting and playing with different ways to adjust pattern pieces, Thank you for following along with me
Very, very helpful! Thanks so much for sharing! I haven’t made pants yet because of the need to scoop my muslin. You explained it for me to understand better. 😊
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you. You called the angle of the front crotch a dart… I now grasp at a basic level how that works now. That always confused me on how to adjust for fit and style. I know how darts shape, so just change the dart (where half is missing). Thank you.
My Pleasure!! Darts can be sneaky... hiding along the edges of the pattern, Thanks for watching
Jennifer, this is a little mini masterclass! Thank you for sharing the front and back crotch angle information. I have reached an age where I expect fat distribution to start … uh … shifting, and I’ll need some new tools to address how that changes pant and skirt fit. 👍👍
I'm right there with in the shifting stage! Thank you for fitting along with me! (also, tickled that you think this is a mini masterclass!)
Thank you for clearing up the mystery ways to correct depth in pants.
My Pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me
OMG--I'm in the seven circles of hell with a pants pattern I'm trying to draft right now!
:) You can do it!! Have you heard of the Jan Minott Method? Her books are part drafting part fitting for your shape. These books are out of print, but you an purchase a digital copy here: www.sewinganddesignschool.com/module/class/240658/book-the-minott-method-skirts-and-pants--digital-version Keep us posted if you need help! Thanks for watching :)
Hi, I really like watching your vidios.
That will be great if you will add the picures what actually hapends after changings❤ That will be very helpfull for me to understanding what change will be better for me.
Thank you for your classes. ❤
:) Thank you... I agree pics can help. I will try to include them Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for sharing this knowledge, they are quite useful to me❤
My pleasure, thank you for fitting along with me
Thanks Jen!
My Pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me
Crotch adjustments hurt my brain! I watch and re-watch and think yes, I’m getting it and then BAM, I’m confused again. I have finally gotten a StyleArc pant pattern to fit decently but I’m still intimidated to try another pair. Your videos never disappoint. Thank you.
:) Sometimes my brain hurts too :))) Once you make your first pair of pants that fit... Made notes of what works and what didn't so you can apply that to the next process... eventually, you'll become familiar with the shapes that work for you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks so much! A brilliant video
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching
The amount of information you teain these videos are just amazing!!! It is really changing my approach to adjusting my patterns!
I'm so happy this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me :)
Thank you😊👏👏👏
You're welcome 😊 Thanks for fitting along with me
You're just amazing, I'm terrible at sewing but I look at all your videos anyway 🥰 I just love it ❤
Thank you for the kind words... Be gentle with yourself, sewing a more than just a skill...it's kinda like a therapy of sorts... and everyone starts somewhere! Thanks for following along with me
@@JSternDesigns ❤️
Thanks for this informative pants fitting video. It helps to visualize the pattern pieces in this way!
I'm happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is a great video. You explain things so well. Thank you
My pleasure! Thanks for the kind words and for fitting along with me
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I have a short rise in the back and I’ve been driving myself crazy trying to figure out how to make the proper adjustments. I can’t wait to try your recommendations.
My pleasure, I'm happy to hear this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me
I learned this when fitting my daughter who has some hormonal problems! She accidentally put them on backwards and said they felt right! I adjusted her front crotch to make it deeper and it was the best fitting pants I had ever made!
That is a great way to "test the theory" if you think you need more room inside in the front!! Thanks for fitting along with me
That’s been so helpful! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge 😊
So happy to hear that this is helpful! and thank you for following along :)
I needed this today! My sewjo has been absent this summer and this got me interested again. What a great explanation ion, thank you!
I'm so happy this video gets your sewjo back on!!! Yay!! thanks for watching
I always appreciate your videos! So great with the examples!
Glad you like them! Thank you for fitting along with me
I am always so impressed by your explanations! You are a wonderful teacher!! One question about lengthening rise, why do you pivot? Traditional patterns just have you cut all of the way across and add length. I've done that but have never been happy with the results.
Thanks so much for the kind words... and that's a great question. I shared how to lengthen the back rise in this tutorial. Pivoting at the side seam creates a situation where you do not have to adjust the other leg, because the side seam length is the same. If you needed to raise the position of the waistband all the way around, you would cut all the way across and spread the pattern to add length & you need to make a like adjustment to the other leg so the side seams match in length. Thanks for fitting along with me
Fascinating. Thank you , mind blown!
So happy you found it fascinating... Thank you for fitting along with me
Makes sense. Thanks
Yay, happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
I’m in process of making pants muslin. I’m sure I will find some of this very beneficial.
Adjusting the CF/CB to agree with your shape is the first thing I look at when I'm tracing my pattern pieces :) Thanks for fitting along with me!
Gràcies!
Gracies!! ....Un placer, gracias por encajar conmigo.
Great video explanation thank you. A question I have… when doing a swayback adjustment do I put back that amount to the side seam? Also how do I fix the grainline?
Here is a tutorial showing how to do a sway back adjustment on pants... To re establish the grainline... line your ruler up with the grainline below the adjustment and extend it back up :) th-cam.com/video/Bk-ni_ylIic/w-d-xo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
❤❤❤❤❤ I needed this video so much. I am still learning, and purchased pants, for me, are so frustrating because my waist is proportionally much smaller than my hips, the opposite of many people. So I definitely don’t have a rectangle shape. My measurements are waist 33.5 and hips 43 with a flat butt. So would I redraw the waist-to-crotch line more to the right as shown near the beginning of your video (2:08) and then take away space in the side seam? You are so good at explaining things. The concept of negative and positive space is a new way of thinking for me, but I’m starting to grasp it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much for such professional well-made videos. 😊
:) In the front, you can angle the CF edge 1/2" - 5/8" from CF to create a curved waistline in the front to fit your defined waistline. In the back, straighten the CB edge. This does add to the back waistline measurement... trim off a like amount from the side seam. & if the pants pattern has two back waist darts on each leg, you only need one for a flat behind. Hope these suggestions help. Thanks for fitting along with me
Wonderful video! For someone who has a prominent tummy and back, what are the right adjustments? I feel like I need to make the lines less straight, and make them leaning towards the side seams to increase the negative space. Then, I would add the same amount to each side seam. Am I on the right track? Do I need to alter the inseam? Thanks so much.
Yes... Especially if you have a smaller defined waistline... Angling in the CF/CB will create more negative space inside and help fit the waistline. Thanks for watching
Thanks! I havea flat saggy butt (thanks, aging) and stand with my hips forward, so there’s always bagginess under my butt. I also have only 5” difference between my waist and my butt. I’ve bee scooping the back crotch, but it doesn’t seem to work. I’ll try straightening the cb seam, hope that works! I’ve been through several muslins and there always seems to be butt bagginess no matter what I do…😢
If you find that your pants and skirts lay against your behind and the back of your legs because your hips tilt forward, you may also need a shorter rise in the back and a longer rise in the front to go along with a straighter CB edge :) (Try putting your pants on backwards and see how they fit... this can give you a good idea of how much curve you may need in the front too!) Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Thinking I could make a permanent pattern piece to superimpose on a new look pattern I want to make. Is this possible?
Unfortunately, it's harder to try to copy a crotch curve onto another pants pattern vs. fitting the new pants pattern in most cases. You can use the shape of a crotch that fits as a guide to help fit a new pattern... but when I lay my pants patterns out, all the crotch shapes are a little bit different. I wish I had a better answer for you! Thanks for watching
This is a very informative video - as are all of your videos. What crotch adjustment would be best for a full abdomen and a full buttock? Would it be the bottom started straightening of the crotch line?
When I showed how to "straighten" the CB to make less room inside... You would do the opposite... make a more angled CB seam to create more room inside. :) I would adjust the back crotch for a full buttock and then see how the muslin is fitting before adjusting the front for a full abdomen... Depending on your shape, you may need a longer front crotch curve or a prominent tummy adjustment, but I like to see if the fabric is pulling in the front before addressing that. (Not all prominent tummies need a prominent tummy adjustment) Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thanks!!
Re shortening or lengthening the crotch line and then correcting the angle of it and correcting the side seam. Would it not be easier to add/remove from the crotch curve right at the top of the pattern, at the waist thus eliminating the need for those secondary corrections? Why slice through the middle of it causes secondary issues?
I am so confused lol
That is a great question! Think of the back crotch curve as a Chair. There are two parts to this "Chair" The straight part from waist to right before the curve. This is the chair back. The second section, from the curve to the tip of the crotch point is the seat of the chair. If you need to adjust the position of the waistband... making it higher or lower, you would add to the top of the straight part at the waistline. But if you need more "sitting room" because your pants slide down when you sit or if it's snug at your upper thigh, you need to adjust the curved section to make the seat of the chair longer. If you're pants are sliding down & you add to the top of the straight part, the pants will still slide down, the waistline edge will just be higher. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thank you. I sew lots of leggings and pull up pants for myself. Would this also work?
Yes... The principles are the same... but knits are much more forgiving and the adjustments are smaller because the stretch of the fabric helps to accommodate the curves of your body. Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns thank you very much. Soooo helpfull.
Hi J. If we had one pair of pants with a perfectly fitted Crotch, how would we copy that from a tracing?
I'm thinking that if we started from that point, then we could... LOL TDCO! Never mind. Thanks Sweetie!
You're so funny.... thanks for following along! :))
Great info!!!
Thanks so much! and thank you for watching
How could it create more room in the crotch front when you’re reducing the space 4:52
That's a great question... It's a little bit count intuitive. Think about digging a hole in the sand. The more you scoop out sand, the deeper or bigger the hole gets. The same thing is true with the crotch curves. I scooped out the front crotch curve, making more room inside the pants. But I also removed fabric from the width of the front leg where I scooped... so you may need to let out the side seam a little bit... I talked about this when I showed how to scoop the back crotch curve. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
This is too advanced for me. >_< I am very confused. What is a balance line - is it the same as the so-called 'princess line'? How do I know if my crotch has a rectangular shape - ask somebody late at night? ^_^ I also had trouble following all those sketch lines. I'm a mess. Thank you.
Sorry about that... A balance line is the vertical line on the pattern that also agrees with the straight of grain on the fabric. If the balance line is also centered on the leg from hem to knee, it's called a center balance line ... This can help you keep track of the shape of your pattern as you make fitting adjustments. To make it more exciting... the vertical balance line is also called a "grainline"... because it should be positioned parallel to the selvage edges of the fabric when you cut them out. Here's a tutorial showing how the position of the center balance line/grainline on pants pattern can affect the fit. th-cam.com/video/WH1egCJ3J_s/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps, thanks for watching
I think I’m more confused. Guess I better just jump in and make some pants
I think jumping in and making a pair of pants is a great way to get started... Here's Part 1 of my Trouble Shooting Pants Fitting Series where I show how to pick a size and trace the pieces, plus adjusting the CF/CB angle for your shape. Parts 2-4 show some body specific adjustments like reducing ease on the back leg & adding fitting allowances... preparing the pants fit muslin and sewing it together... just in case you want to check that out! th-cam.com/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/w-d-xo.html Happy Pants Fitting!