Introducing the Pop Start Siphon
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2022
- I use a non return valve to start s siphon. The idea is that you might not always be able to get to a valve on the low end to start the siphon and this pop valve will let you fill the pipe without having to access the low end of the pipe. This is also a lot easier than having to lift buckets to fill the pipe.
Potentially a great way to fill the drive pipe of a ram pump too!
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It is wonderful to watch you wonder! Don’t change.
very interesting !
Nice
Look up “jigler pump”. It’s a hose with tiny steel or brass ball inside with a piece of pipe or something hard and heavy. The little ball seals the pipe at the bottom like a one way valve. It was used to fill small fuel tanks from bigger ones.
Same principle as a "jiggler" syphon for fuel transfer.. not a bad idea.
I think this should work!
Lets go
I purchased a similar functioning siphon hose, to be used with a gas can, from Tractor Supply. It is clear flexible tubing with a copper fitting containing a marble on one end. The fitting is crimped in a way to prevent losing the marble but to allow it to move just as your setup allowed. It's very handy and works great.
On the farm we use our palm to shut the outlet
It's how aquarium water drain pipes work, very handy and quick
Very nice Jiggle Start siphon demonstration. Try an inlet rigid pipe about half that length, only what you need for 'popping' and the rest can be flexible like a garden hose. or motorize the 'popping' and you have a single valve pump, LOL.
Common name is Jiggler syphon. It has been around for a long time.
They already have this valve without a spring setup with soft tubing for gasoline siphons at plenty of hardware and automotive stores.
I'm going to try this with a 4" to 2" reducer then a 2" check valve, then 1-1.5" pipe. The pipe reducer should act as a funnel and make priming easier as it'll increase pressure in the system while priming.
A bigger one way valve will allow for a full pipe of water while the valve is attached. Also it might be worth trying a version with a one way valve, 1-2 feet of 3 inch pvc reduced to what ever size you are using in this video should also make a difference on the amount delivered while the valve is attached. To give you an idea what I am talking about look up fish tank siphon/gravel cleaner on Amazon. Keep up the great work man.
Sweet idea Bud. Tha bigger line would raise the pressure in the smaller lines. Sweeeeet.
If you use a foot valve, meant for well inlets it will have full flow without removing the check valve
Sometimes I use a siphon on a guarden hose in a pool to suck out sand and dump it into the gutter. I will the hose by sticking the entire hose into the pool, then I hold it about a foot from one end and shake it back and forth. This gets water flowing though the entire hose and with enough momentum I can lift the end of the hose out of the water and into the gutter without it stopping and then it starts the siphon. Allows me to suck out sand without the dangers of using an electric vacuum while people are swimming.
I would like to see a homemade windmill to lift stagnant water for a ramp pump, if possibke.
I would use a sewer line tube to siphon that water. It would be way quicker.
An elbow at the outlet to keep air from freely flowing back up the pipe will allow the siphon to start more easily and stay going once the height differential gets really small.
you coud start with a funnel before the valve and get more water in the pipe per move
Rather than doing all that extra quick shaking you could fill the pipe 3/4 full over the entire length with it pointing straight up and then just point it down. That would start your siphon since the low end has to be below the input end even if there is a higher point in the middle. There is no free energy.
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Maybe the first pipe has to be thicker than the second pipe
It does make sense if you want more water flow rate. But of you have issue with starting the siphon, then it is related to 'Datum head' concept. Basically the level of water at delivery side should be below the water level of the sump (inlet tank or reservoir) to start the siphon without any issues. Look it up on internet about datum head or Bernoulli's equation for better understanding.
@@rohanpatel1075 i think, starting the syphon is much easier.
Am I the only one who had images of those old "Shake Weight" commercials? 😀
a bit like a "jiggle syphon" for fuel, saves getting a mouthful of petrol!😆
and now with a T instead of the 45 degree and make a higher end.
i would just submerge the whole pipe and then pull it out of the water. in this case all the water stays behind the valve. no need to jiggle 🤔
Great video, Seth! Sequel idea: put the one way valve in the middle, and outlet end (assuming it is airtight) to see how it creates a vacuum and pulls the water up. Also would love to see a “U” siphon or bell siphon done with clear pvc. I am interested in how much flow is required to activate different sizes of those siphons.
That is a fun idea.
Actually the reason I purchased the clrar pipe is for making a U siphon and bell siphon! Should be interesting.
Yeah your pipe bend geometry is working against you so that your looking straight outlet tube is able to send air quickly back up to the bend section.
This could be easily remedied by having another bend down at the bottom end of the pipe.
I think it would maybe be easier to start, or perhaps less cumbersome, if on the inlet side you used like a flexible length of tube with just a small piece of PVC pipe and non-return valve on it, and then had the rest of the siphon stationary with some kind of stable support, just so you're not having to literally shake the **entire contraption,** and potentially shake it apart. And with flexible tubing and a short length of pipe (maybe with a handle or something), I suspect you could shake it in the water much faster to get it started quicker?
Anyway, told ya' it'd probably work as long as the output was lower than the input, or than the top of the input reservoir level. given siphons can't work uphill but should work "downhill," per usual.
Glad I was right. ^_^
Ohh, I guess you had a similar idea... Paused the video, just before you got to that point, to type my comment. Seems like we were on a similar wavelength there. ^_^
Also, I think the reason it didn't start the first couple tries is because the far end of the water hadn't yet gotten down below the input water surface level? You could see it was being kind of sucked back up the tube toward the input. I think that if the water had gotten lower than the input water level it would have started? Probably, maybe?
Could probably test that with a longer output pipe to see if you could shake it to just before it gets down to water surface level and see if it still gets sucked back up to the source, or if it actually starts regardless, and then shake it to just past water surface level (but still not to the end of a longer output pipe and see if it still starts despite not reaching the end of the tube just with shaking the input side)?
Come to think of it, putting a one-way valve at the output end, too, might help? So it can't suck air back in from the output end, but as you shake to pressurize, it can still **EMIT** air from the output end as the tube becomes pressurized sufficient to open the valve and let air out.
Not sure whether the water after the hump will stay at the top, or dribble down to the output valve as air bubbles rise up? But presumably, the one-way valve might help slow the water from getting out the output end and prime the siphon? Or would equal one-way valves cause the siphon to stop and not siphon? Would one need to be smaller or larger (requiring more/less pressure) to maintain the "siphon" effect without further input "shaking"? Not sure... Or would it still act like an open straw due to gravity pulling on the water in the output pipe adding extra potential energy to the equation to push water down and out through the output one-way valve, and siphon it back in through the input valve?
That is a foot valve
This is great Bud. The lift/rise can't be too much. the v of the pipe lifted higher than needed. But it worked great. Way to go fella. Maybe you can tell me, there is a way that plumbers can keep a siphon going between losing the water and getting the water level back. If the water gets too low for the siphon to work then the rain comes. What would preserve the siphon? I thought it was some kind of a check valve arrangement. Have you heard of this? Thanks for the great idea. This is going to help me. Very much appreciated.
Don't see any way that would be possible! The check valve he has will keep the water in the supply side of the pipe but gravity will pull it out on the output side until the siphon stops... Now it will only take a few shakes to get it going again but it won't start again! Another check valve on the outlet side would have to be spring loaded to close but a siphon doesn't build enough pressure to open a valve like that... You could put a regular valve on the outlet side like he attempted and turn it off before it went dry, then back on when the water gets high again but there's no way to automate it simply! You could put an solenoid valve controlled by a float or sensor but that gets complicated and requires some electricity although it would consume less than a pump...
@@NathanLanham2005 Thanks for the reply.. Something about your answer made me think that the one way valve would go at the end where the pond goes dry.. It would hold the water at the top of your upside down V. And it would be full to that point when the water returned.. Your pipe made a v shape. Thank you very much. I hope that made sense to you. You helped me . Thanks. That's 2 things now. I think when the water levels rise. The siphon would start to run again.. We will have to try that. That might be automatic. I read that in a book about plumbing. Thanks fella! PS. Nix the starting up again. You might could shake it if it would work without the spring. The water weight night hold it down.
how much is your hydraulic ram Pump
You can find the ram pump on the Land To House site as well as on Amazon.
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you need to have all that pipe glued together. /facepalm
Here in NZ you buy these to siphon fuels $18 NZ, been using one for yrs
Nice