I tend to jack trucks up from the axles, position an axle stand underneath and wind the calliper off completely and then pop the clip off, pin out and pads out, clean the carrier with some sandpaper, copper grease the back and sides of the pad backing plate, slot in, assemble, wind the piston adjuster till it goes hard and back it off one click, no need for pumping of the foot brake.
Wow, so easy to do literally took 5min.Thanks for sharing.Now days if you can save Mechanic cost you are rolling otherwise it is hard to survive now days market.
There is actually a spec for brake pad to rotor spacing. Don't quote me but i think its between .027-.047 thou. Either way, you both would get there eventually. The disc brake system IS self adjusting. You just have to work that adjustment in. The problem with doing it that way (where you over space the pads and work it into adjustment with applications) is that your never really sure its hit adjustment. It will eventually and its only going to slightly pull you in either direction its on until its adjusted but to properly walk it in you have to give it tons of HARD applications. Not light ones. So the push rod and worm gear actuate the adjuster.
Timothy Hays he didn't read the instructions. If he would have read the instructions he would have tightens brakes till they made contact then back off 3 clicks like the comment said. I think he's full of bull matukie
I hired a tire guy yesterday to remove my tires for me and knocked it all out in under 2 hours..He had a leaking compressor that would loosen or tighten about 3 lug nuts before having to rebuild air but still. I called the local KW dealer in my neck of the woods and they charge 4 hours labor per Axle 12 hours just in labor..their shop rate can be as high as 200 pr hour..do the math on that one!
Instead of pumping the brake paddle 10 times, just adjust the caliber up full and let off 2 click's and they'll be perfect. it's ok, it's ok cause "AM A TRUCK MECHANIC" hope this helps
very simple the adjuster that he slacken the pads off with (you can hear it clicking) you just turn that adjuster the opposite way and it tightens, then just back it off 2 clicks and they will be perfect
that's rite, you sir must have been a good trucker, the best drivers that I knew, knew stuff like that and looked after the old wagon's they drove, greased them and what not. and you rarely seen them in the garage. where as the drivers now cant and wont even change a bulb.
1 . Off goes the handbrake 2 . Shoot off the wheel 3 . Dismount the brake calipher cap . 4 . Check the brake calipher pistons ( if the rubber is damaged than replace calipher) 5 . Adjust the pistons until they reached the calipher 6 . Take out the breakpads 7 . Check the brake calipher for play ( push and pull it a few times to see if the pistons are okay and the calipher doesnt get stuck ) 8 . Check the brake rotor ( if it has lots of crack , big cracks or is thinner than 39mm ... replace it ) 9 . Grind the edges of the brake pads (not neccesary if your brake rotors are new) 10 . Apply copperpaste to the sides of your breakpads 11 . Clean the edges inside the calipher where the pads are resting 12 . Put the pads in calipher , dont force it . 13 . Adjust the pistons until the push against the pads . Then readjust 60° or 3 clicks back counterclockwise 14. Mount the brake calipher cap 15. Mount the wheel
actually when you adjust it, you tighten the 10mm nut until tight, then back it off two clicks, if you read the install guide in the box with the pads, that's how it says to correctly adjust them. Not by just pumping the brakes.
hoogaboogabo its recommended to pump the brake , that way u move all the auto adjuster parts . and u know that your adjuster is working ... also , with new pads its pretty much at the end so it doesnt move much at all . unless ur rotors are shot
Sir.. at 2:05 you'll notice the bottom tappet boot has a tear.. at least that's what it looks like.. pull the truck back in and replace. Any contamination that enters will seize the adjuster.. and it's not a warrantable failure.. Next time.. once the pads are removed.. carefully inspect the tappet boots look for anything from a pin hole to a rip or tear.. then, move the caliper head and do the same with the guide pin boots.. it takes just a minute or two .. but will save you the rebuild in a year..
Whenever we replace disc brakes on 2017-2018 mack trucks. Its run the adjuster all the way in then 1/4 turn for read axles and 1/2 turn for front axles
Wow! That's freaking quick!! Good job! So how about the rotors? I figure you have to take the wheel hub and calipers off! Maybe that's why they ask for over a grand for the job!? Or that's just for replacing the pads?
Rotors typically last two sets of pads when running line haul applications, inspection is the key with ADB checking them regularly will add to the life of the system.
good afternoon sir i have a question but it is totally different than breaks repair i have a 2012 peterbil 384 i had to do a repair on a airbag supports, need it to weld a support because it felt off, unfortunately all my modules burn out, my mechanic said he disconnected the negative battery wires but i believe he didnt. do this affect to it? thank you sir
99% of the time if the batteries were disconnected it will not burn up any computer modules. I usually unplug the computers if possible to take away that 1% chance.
The high frequency from the welding arc went through the electrical system and pooched your modules. The man welding it should have disconnected the batteries and preferably the computers as well. Good luck getting him to pay for fixing it
Besides replacing brake pads, how much harder is it to replace brake chambers, wheels seals, and king pins with the air disc brake design?? Just curious!
@@ivantulala9533 I work on school buses, and we have air brakes on all of them, the old shoe and drum design! It's easy and sucks at the same time because of the heavy lifting! I remember an older bus we had on fleet where you have to take the wheel hub off to get to the drum...yikes!!😫😵
@@ivantulala9533 been threw DAF and scania training and the pin are put in a particular direction. For a reason. If the caliper is vertical like most rear wheels then it's put in with the wide end to the top to stop it falling out . If it's on a horizontally mounted caliper like most steer applications the wide end is to the rear. This is so if the retaining clip comes out or rusts away etc the pin can vibrate out a bit but will be caught by the hole in the wheel and pushed back forward when the vehicle is driving hopefully keeping the pin in place . Every thing is done for a reason. They spend millions and millions developing these trucks nothing is done " oh that will do"
Erick Guevara you need to have your air built up and your park brake off unless its a single action brake chamber then you can leave your park brake on.
Yes you have to as the piston will be out further with worn pads as they are gone thin and worn and the new pads will be thicker with more meat on them , its better to tighten the adjusters up again to take up the slack after fitting the new pads ,it looks easy in the video as its a fresh new truck , but when theres older axles and brakes theres more work for sure but hope fully you wont have this to contend with all the best
Hey ya ll , for the record , we are backyard mechanics here , you keep your novelty pro shops for some fancy outfits . Not me . Truck just turned million, and none of your fancy shops ever touched anythink . Amateurs? You talking out of your ass , our rigs are rolling just fine without any of that fancy crap ya ll suggesting to do . Hauling marlbe slabs 100klbs all day . Hammer down !
Ivan Tulala totally agree. They talk mad shit because this is a giant FU to a lifelong scam. This is advertising their scam to the Public and they don't like it. Keep on doing what you're doing my guy! You got my full support
Hell ya brother! ! And when you maintain your own truck you know what it needs and what it doesn't need. All those other driver's are just that. . Drivers. They just run it tilln something breaks. Then pay 500 or more for a tow. I would have put that pin in from the top just like you did. That way if for some reason the clip falls out the pin is at least held their by gravity. I do excavation for my two friends. Been doing it since I was in 8th grade. We do all of our own repairs. We run a 81 kenworth with a 3406b and a dump body. And a 94 international triaxle dump with a cummins n14. That truck got rolled over and we straightened it and double framed it ourselves. I've rebuilt the final drives on one of our 160 excavators when I had never even knew how it worked when we ordered the parts. Lol
Benny Thomas Mathew Too expensive and not viable.. need to relplace spider for a torque plate.. get correct orientation.. chamber sizing... not practical
You forgot to round off the corners of the braking materiaal . It can produce sparks when braking and cause uneven braking on the axle. This happens because the brake disc gets curven inward
@@ivantulala9533 hey Ivan.. once you’ve fitted the brake pads you don’t need to wind the brakes back in up against the pads? I’m doing my brakes this weekend on my FH 12 Volvo Prime mover
@@ivantulala9533 cheers mate.. I’m actually making a start on them now, I’ve done everything that has to be done but now having trouble trying to getting the pads out? If I was able to I’d send you some pics.
Ok few minor faults pointed out by some sharp viewers. I read quite a few comments. Didn't have time to read them all. No one mentions the fact that they did NOT check to see if the calipers slides freely before they put in the pads. This is a VERY important step. Stuck calipers creates overheating , pulling etc.
Bushings look worn in the caliper. I work as a trailer mechanic and that has the tell tail sings of needing a rebuild on the caliper. Never inspected the tappets, no grease in dust boot over adjustment nut, never even checked the disk to see if was in spec. Yes back yard fixes are quick and Cheaper but taking it to a shop is definitely the way to go
Much harder to remove the wheel than to change the brake pads. Good job!!!
This is the best straightforward video I’ve seen
Wao i liked your video guys ! i will replace mine next week thanks for the info.
That was a great video! Thanks.
I tend to jack trucks up from the axles, position an axle stand underneath and wind the calliper off completely and then pop the clip off, pin out and pads out, clean the carrier with some sandpaper, copper grease the back and sides of the pad backing plate, slot in, assemble, wind the piston adjuster till it goes hard and back it off one click, no need for pumping of the foot brake.
thankyou as a first timer i would not have thought was so easy. Iveco Stralis has the same setup except with sensor wires.
yep . bendix.
It's even easier to change brake pads for trucks than in the cars
yes much simpler even with adjuster lol
True, even the adjustment is easy
Thanks for this badass video now im going to look for a truck with disc brake way easier to change out the brakes
Until you have to do the router...
Good to know bud! Much appreciated 👍
Thanks you for the video, you just saved me couples of 00s dollars now….
Wow, so easy to do literally took 5min.Thanks for sharing.Now days if you can save Mechanic cost you are rolling otherwise it is hard to survive now days market.
You guys are Awesome!! Many Thanks.
As a full time HGV mechanic it's hilarious watching stuff like this
Greenboff As soon as I saw him sat down on a chair I knew what kind of video this was about to be.
Greenboff gland u enjoyed the video
Tom Roberts he did it fine all he could have done is tighten the adjuster then back it off 3 clicks.
you are supposed to tighten the adjuster until the pads contact the rotor and back off the adjuster 3 clicks then the brakes can self adjust properly
There is actually a spec for brake pad to rotor spacing. Don't quote me but i think its between .027-.047 thou.
Either way, you both would get there eventually. The disc brake system IS self adjusting. You just have to work that adjustment in.
The problem with doing it that way (where you over space the pads and work it into adjustment with applications) is that your never really sure its hit adjustment. It will eventually and its only going to slightly pull you in either direction its on until its adjusted but to properly walk it in you have to give it tons of HARD applications. Not light ones. So the push rod and worm gear actuate the adjuster.
I can see someone reads the instructions. 👍
Timothy Hays he didn't read the instructions. If he would have read the instructions he would have tightens brakes till they made contact then back off 3 clicks like the comment said. I think he's full of bull matukie
Not 3 clicks .one click is enough.
zopilote Galaz you full of dookie
What a sweet system!
thank you very much for this video bro
The only special tool is the guy willing to pay full buck😂😂😂😂
I hired a tire guy yesterday to remove my tires for me and knocked it all out in under 2 hours..He had a leaking compressor that would loosen or tighten about 3 lug nuts before having to rebuild air but still.
I called the local KW dealer in my neck of the woods and they charge 4 hours labor per Axle 12 hours just in labor..their shop rate can be as high as 200 pr hour..do the math on that one!
yep .
Instead of pumping the brake paddle 10 times, just adjust the caliber up full and let off 2 click's and they'll be perfect. it's ok, it's ok cause "AM A TRUCK MECHANIC" hope this helps
+Wolfhound 3 how would you adjust the caliber matr
very simple the adjuster that he slacken the pads off with (you can hear it clicking) you just turn that adjuster the opposite way and it tightens, then just back it off 2 clicks and they will be perfect
thanks dude
that's rite, you sir must have been a good trucker, the best drivers that I knew, knew stuff like that and looked after the old wagon's they drove, greased them and what not. and you rarely seen them in the garage. where as the drivers now cant and wont even change a bulb.
The Wolfhound thats because there f-ing lazy
1 . Off goes the handbrake
2 . Shoot off the wheel
3 . Dismount the brake calipher cap .
4 . Check the brake calipher pistons ( if the rubber is damaged than replace calipher)
5 . Adjust the pistons until they reached the calipher
6 . Take out the breakpads
7 . Check the brake calipher for play ( push and pull it a few times to see if the pistons are okay and the calipher doesnt get stuck )
8 . Check the brake rotor ( if it has lots of crack , big cracks or is thinner than 39mm ... replace it )
9 . Grind the edges of the brake pads (not neccesary if your brake rotors are new)
10 . Apply copperpaste to the sides of your breakpads
11 . Clean the edges inside the calipher where the pads are resting
12 . Put the pads in calipher , dont force it .
13 . Adjust the pistons until the push against the pads . Then readjust 60° or 3 clicks back counterclockwise
14. Mount the brake calipher cap
15. Mount the wheel
we will try that next ime sir , thank you !
Heyyy bendix training
Love your honesty man. Great job.
actually when you adjust it, you tighten the 10mm nut until tight, then back it off two clicks, if you read the install guide in the box with the pads, that's how it says to correctly adjust them. Not by just pumping the brakes.
hoogaboogabo its recommended to pump the brake , that way u move all the auto adjuster parts . and u know that your adjuster is working ... also , with new pads its pretty much at the end so it doesnt move much at all . unless ur rotors are shot
That looks easy enough to do👍
Sir.. at 2:05 you'll notice the bottom tappet boot has a tear.. at least that's what it looks like.. pull the truck back in and replace. Any contamination that enters will seize the adjuster.. and it's not a warrantable failure.. Next time.. once the pads are removed.. carefully inspect the tappet boots look for anything from a pin hole to a rip or tear.. then, move the caliper head and do the same with the guide pin boots.. it takes just a minute or two .. but will save you the rebuild in a year..
+Brake Nut nollyprott.wordpress.com/2014/06/ nollyprott.wordpress.com/2014/05/ nollyprott.wordpress.com/2014/08/
Thanks lads ; )
Whenever we replace disc brakes on 2017-2018 mack trucks. Its run the adjuster all the way in then 1/4 turn for read axles and 1/2 turn for front axles
Never heard that before and lve repadded loads of brakes. Just leave a 1 to 2 mm clearance
Good info.
Wow! That's freaking quick!! Good job! So how about the rotors? I figure you have to take the wheel hub and calipers off! Maybe that's why they ask for over a grand for the job!? Or that's just for replacing the pads?
Rotors typically last two sets of pads when running line haul applications, inspection is the key with ADB checking them regularly will add to the life of the system.
Knowledge is power
Nice job !
Great job
Thank you !!!
y ji hor jankari dao plz
Outstanding.
There they are! My stupid ass WD hard drives!! You guys put it to good use!
So a cotter pin to secure the pin that secures the cover that secures the pads ??
Great video guys , thank you very much , can you post a video how to replace the discs if their bad , is it hard or not
not hard . caliper has to come off
Great job!!
thank you sir . that was 10 years ago
@@ivantulala9533 now I sew it😂
Thank you
Wow, much easier than shoes!
i wish cars were like this
Good video
good afternoon sir i have a question but it is totally different than breaks repair
i have a 2012 peterbil 384 i had to do a repair on a airbag supports, need it to weld a support because it felt off, unfortunately all my modules burn out, my mechanic said he disconnected the negative battery wires but i believe he didnt. do this affect to it? thank you sir
99% of the time if the batteries were disconnected it will not burn up any computer modules. I usually unplug the computers if possible to take away that 1% chance.
The high frequency from the welding arc went through the electrical system and pooched your modules. The man welding it should have disconnected the batteries and preferably the computers as well. Good luck getting him to pay for fixing it
Good i suscribe
Thanks for subbing
good job
nice Thanks
Wish I could live in you’re city ... I would bring you over the house for some beers and a freaking tomahawk ribeye !!! Thank you fellas
i appreciate the flowers sir
It's easy to change the pads till you got to change that rotor out and they have to disassemble the whole hub
Awesome
Hey thanks a lot
So how much does does cost Shoes and how much would a rotor cost
Have you changed the rotors since you made this video? Can't find one that shows that...thanks
no . 1 miliion on em .
Idk why I'm here but good video
Holy shit! He has three arms...
Wow 👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
They have air disc brakes in USA too? Surprising.
YOU MAKE LIKE YOU DESIGNED THE BRAKE SYSTEM? A GENIUS DID!
Besides replacing brake pads, how much harder is it to replace brake chambers, wheels seals, and king pins with the air disc brake design?? Just curious!
Actually chambers are much easier . Everything else about the same .
@@ivantulala9533 I work on school buses, and we have air brakes on all of them, the old shoe and drum design! It's easy and sucks at the same time because of the heavy lifting! I remember an older bus we had on fleet where you have to take the wheel hub off to get to the drum...yikes!!😫😵
Yeah thise flitstone wheels lol
Dam looks really simple compared to the drum breaks
Simple as bus and truck brake replacement?
how do you change the air brake chamber on disc brakes? can you do a video on that?
Toki Wartooth unbolt the two 15/16 lock nuts and remove . thats it . there is no clevis , all the chamber is doing is pushing and the caliper .
remove the two 24mm nuts , remove , reinstal . thats it .
What’s the size of socket from adjust screw?
holy that's fast
you know me bro
Why did you replace the the retaining oin in a different direction to the way you took it out.
it's irrelevant as to which way it's going in
@@ivantulala9533 been threw DAF and scania training and the pin are put in a particular direction. For a reason. If the caliper is vertical like most rear wheels then it's put in with the wide end to the top to stop it falling out . If it's on a horizontally mounted caliper like most steer applications the wide end is to the rear. This is so if the retaining clip comes out or rusts away etc the pin can vibrate out a bit but will be caught by the hole in the wheel and pushed back forward when the vehicle is driving hopefully keeping the pin in place . Every thing is done for a reason. They spend millions and millions developing these trucks nothing is done " oh that will do"
NICE G NICE
👌👍👍👍👍
Facil. 😂👍🇲🇽🇺🇸
I wish light trucks and cars are like this... 😭😭
Another HUGE reason that disc brakes rule and drums suck 👍
do you have to release the brakes when doing this type of job
Erick Guevara when u do rear brakes you have to release
Erick Guevara you need to have your air built up and your park brake off unless its a single action brake chamber then you can leave your park brake on.
Yes you have to as the piston will be out further with worn pads as they are gone thin and worn and the new pads will be thicker with more meat on them , its better to tighten the adjusters up again to take up the slack after fitting the new pads ,it looks easy in the video as its a fresh new truck , but when theres older axles and brakes theres more work for sure but hope fully you wont have this to contend with all the best
John Noonan that's not what he was asking.
WHATS HE ASKING
yeah and don't use your hand as a hammer so you don't get carpal tunnel and wear eye protection
sliders seized are more of a worry but not hard to do
Hey ya ll , for the record , we are backyard mechanics here , you keep your novelty pro shops for some fancy outfits . Not me . Truck just turned million, and none of your fancy shops ever touched anythink . Amateurs? You talking out of your ass , our rigs are rolling just fine without any of that fancy crap ya ll suggesting to do . Hauling marlbe slabs 100klbs all day . Hammer down !
Ivan Tulala totally agree. They talk mad shit because this is a giant FU to a lifelong scam. This is advertising their scam to the Public and they don't like it. Keep on doing what you're doing my guy! You got my full support
Hell ya brother! ! And when you maintain your own truck you know what it needs and what it doesn't need. All those other driver's are just that. . Drivers. They just run it tilln something breaks. Then pay 500 or more for a tow. I would have put that pin in from the top just like you did. That way if for some reason the clip falls out the pin is at least held their by gravity. I do excavation for my two friends. Been doing it since I was in 8th grade. We do all of our own repairs. We run a 81 kenworth with a 3406b and a dump body. And a 94 international triaxle dump with a cummins n14. That truck got rolled over and we straightened it and double framed it ourselves. I've rebuilt the final drives on one of our 160 excavators when I had never even knew how it worked when we ordered the parts. Lol
@@blindabinda1234 yes sir ! We build them from ground up right here in the front yard in dirt
For Iveco Stralis ?
holy crap that's piss easy saved 1500 lol
Good jobs is volvo no ?
whasnt the pin and cotter pin?
Damn it's easier that the drums
Tal vez no vende el freno de disco de aire completo con todas sus partes
nutz how easy it is seems like the only hard part is taking the wheels off.
the bendex training video on you tube tells people you don't need to remove the caliper too.
Do you guys know about air drum to air disc conversion kits
Benny Thomas Mathew Too expensive and not viable.. need to relplace spider for a torque plate.. get correct orientation.. chamber sizing... not practical
Good question. Was thinking about converting too.
but why ? if you craving more spoppig power use wider drum and wider shoes with diamong lining . just as good as disc .
Other than removing the wheel....much easier than a car.
You forgot to round off the corners of the braking materiaal . It can produce sparks when braking and cause uneven braking on the axle. This happens because the brake disc gets curven inward
how long will take to do that , cause i have 600k miles (1 million km) on that truck since that video , and everything is fine
@@ivantulala9533 hey Ivan.. once you’ve fitted the brake pads you don’t need to wind the brakes back in up against the pads? I’m
doing my brakes this weekend on my FH 12 Volvo Prime mover
@@rickykingi5191 naw just pump the brake couple of times
@@ivantulala9533 cheers mate.. I’m actually making a start on them now, I’ve done everything that has to be done but now having trouble trying to getting the pads out? If I was able to I’d send you some pics.
@@ivantulala9533 all done mate got it all sussed 🤙
Ok few minor faults pointed out by some sharp viewers. I read quite a few comments. Didn't have time to read them all. No one mentions the fact that they did NOT check to see if the calipers slides freely before they put in the pads. This is a VERY important step. Stuck calipers creates overheating , pulling etc.
Stephen Cumming why would it not slide ?
Bushings look worn in the caliper. I work as a trailer mechanic and that has the tell tail sings of needing a rebuild on the caliper. Never inspected the tappets, no grease in dust boot over adjustment nut, never even checked the disk to see if was in spec. Yes back yard fixes are quick and Cheaper but taking it to a shop is definitely the way to go
no
what year is the truck?
late 00's I think
2012
Why aren’t cars ALL like this, so simple and fast:
No copper slip to help for future changes!
No need
What model isuzu truck is that
Kenworth w900L icon
Wow, that's easier than a car.
why dont you clean and check for other issue..
clean the parts.
check for rubbers damage.
flushing the brake fluid?
Correct, except for the brake fluid, it's a airbrake system :)
there aint noone got time for that kind of negativity
Que all the brake technicians now.
I replace hub seals without removing the caliper or the rotor.
How is that even possible
@@skilledhitman9513 You can unbolt the Rotor from the hub, while still on the Tractor.
God dam that's easier then my truck.
nice video
helpfull
The sheer pins are there for the brake adjustment. You tighten it down until it breaks off. That’s per the factory pdf manual.
Wrong wrong
@@rayfigsray show me proof that I’m wrong. How long have you been a class 8 tech?
cheers guys!!
why are so few trucks using discs?
that's easier than my car....
my caliper dont adjust what can i do
i suggest getting a reman one sir . its brakes .
Y que paso con el ajuste de las Pastillas ?????????
Y la limpieza del alojamiento .
Well, it’s showing you roughly how you do it but you diden’t even check the sliding of the calipter
how about the rear
same think