Okay now I get it, you build the wall against the pocket/ cassette door, nice. I take back my older comment on other video about this. You should look into a simple very efficient rocket stove heater with some copper tubing heated warm water insulated storage for warm water needs. Nice designs.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I have seen the concept of that kind of water heating stove on youtube. It sure is a clever solution. I do like my propane on demand heater though since it allows me to have instant hot water and no smoke in case I ever park somewhere where people could be bothered by that. (I will admit though, that is very "german" thinking, canadians are much more relaxed in that regard!😀)
Another great video! I really enjoy watching and learning from your skills and craftsmanship. I must also agree with your added safety measures with your stove installation; FIRE & FLOODING, the two great evils to avoid on any vessel! The way you measured and traced to make that spacer block was amazing. I can only imagine the amount of wood I would have wasted attempting to get the tight fit 😵💫. Take care
Very nice work! I am far from possessing carpentry skills although I recently installed a “gravity” direct wall vent propane furnace in an off grid cabin. I left the wall cavity air-gapped a couple of inches around the stove piping, even though it’s pipe in pipe and the hot exhaust is internal. The things that can prevent sleep from arriving🙈 I’m sure you know that heat travels three ways; conduction, convection and radiation. There’s a saying, “heat rises”. There is no law of physics or thermodynamics that makes this true. Gravity and buoyancy are the rules that apply. Practically this means gravity will pull the colder (so denser) fresh air to the floor and it will pool there. The convective cycle (buoyancy) that sets up around the sides of the stove is not likely to extend to the floor, unless there’s some skirting or ductwork that helps it out. The gravity furnace I installed has skirting for this purpose. One way to enhance the convective cycle to include that dense lower air would be to attach a pipe to the side of the stove and extend it down to within a couple of inches of the floor. (Sorry, I am an engineer😢).
Thank you. Ironically I planned on installing some sort of pipe with a small internal fan to suck up the warm air that will collect under the cieling and pump it under the floor towards the watertanks. My hope is to avoid any potential condensation on the cold tanks and to circulate the air. I also think the primary heat source is going to be the diesel heater and I installed the heat output as low as possible to avoid freezing toes.
@@adrianwoodworm The relationship between air temperature, relative humidity and dew point is often shown in psychometric charts. If you know the surface temperature of your tank then you can then look up the range of air temperatures and relative humidities that would not cause condensation. The risk with warm air is that it can hold more moisture in the form of water vapour, which would have a higher rh and may then actually increase the risk of condensation when it cools below dewpoint. I worked outside in the lower mainland for a couple of winters long ago. Maybe low rh exists out there somewhere but I sure never found any. I wonder if dehumidification might be a possibility if the air in the space around the tank could somehow be contained. Maintain a dry airspace with a desiccant and change it out when the tank is refilled? My father used to fill the leg of one of my mothers old nylons with calcium chloride and hang it in the root cellar🙈 It worked but there are lots of more visually appealing methods that don’t gross out the children as much.
@@flatlandriver2471 you have a good point there. It could be counterproductive to pump that air down there. Maybe I try it the way it is first and keep an eye on it. I made sure there is a lot of ventilation down there, so it might not be necessary. I saw recently small dehumidifiers on amazon that take very little electricity, that might be an option as well.
@@adrianwoodworm I agree with the wait and see approach. It’s a lot like installing a new toilet; you never know if the new tank is going to sweat until it’s all set up and working. Cheers🍻
I had a propane catalytic heater in my previous sailboat and thought about installing the same in our tiny houseboat. but on second thought, we decided to spend the winters in Mexico instead. If you plan to spend the winter in BC on your tiny then be prepared for lots of condensation. I found that a 60 watt light bulb under the bed (assuming the mattress is on vented) will take care of moisture on the mattress.
I can imagine! The catalytic heaters produce 1lbs of water vapor for every pound of propane that is burned. I cover the hole condensation theme in part 5 of this build. Seems like you made the best choice by spending the winters in Mexico!
@@adrianwoodworm the catalytic heater (still on the market) is positively vented so minimal water vapour from that. Most of the moisture comes from cooking and breathing.
@@adrianwoodworm the one I had is the following -- Meet the 12V DC propane powered Platinum CAT! heater. Manufactured by A&L Enterprises in Tumwater, Washington, this compact, catalytic gas heater runs on natural gas or propane and may be safer than the built-in furnace found in most RVs.
Thank you! It means wood, presto log, coal or charcoal. Pretty much everything that burns, ideally slowly. I think they call it that way to differ from the diesel and propane heaters they offer.
I swear to you I had that thought about that, this mf just put a door in front of his fresh air intake! A door to the outside where all the fresh ait is.. I did a bit of facepalm!
No quite sure what double B wall pipe is, I assume it is a double walled stove pipe? I guess that answers the question, I am simply not aware of the kind of pipe you are talking about😄 I just stuck to what the company sold me and recommended in their kit. Also, it kind of sounds like it would insulate the pipe and transfer the heat to the outside, I would rather have as much heat radiating from the stovepipe as well as the stove itself.
Okay now I get it, you build the wall against the pocket/ cassette door, nice.
I take back my older comment on other video about this.
You should look into a simple very efficient rocket stove heater with some copper tubing heated warm water insulated storage for warm water needs.
Nice designs.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I have seen the concept of that kind of water heating stove on youtube. It sure is a clever solution. I do like my propane on demand heater though since it allows me to have instant hot water and no smoke in case I ever park somewhere where people could be bothered by that. (I will admit though, that is very "german" thinking, canadians are much more relaxed in that regard!😀)
Good job on the install...you might want to go to Dickinson Diesel Heater...best install ever...
You are a fantastic craftsman. I’m inspired for my camper build!
I am glad you enjoyed it and found some inspiration! Thank you for watching!
Excellent work! This has been so much fun to watch. Thanks for the time you have spent on these videos!
Terrific craftsmanship, great project. I wish I could just hold your tools for you 😅, it's fascinating. Can't wait for the next episode. 👍✌
Haha! Thank you sir, I appreciate it!!
Another great video! I really enjoy watching and learning from your skills and craftsmanship. I must also agree with your added safety measures with your stove installation; FIRE & FLOODING, the two great evils to avoid on any vessel! The way you measured and traced to make that spacer block was amazing. I can only imagine the amount of wood I would have wasted attempting to get the tight fit 😵💫.
Take care
Very nice work! I am far from possessing carpentry skills although I recently installed a “gravity” direct wall vent propane furnace in an off grid cabin. I left the wall cavity air-gapped a couple of inches around the stove piping, even though it’s pipe in pipe and the hot exhaust is internal. The things that can prevent sleep from arriving🙈
I’m sure you know that heat travels three ways; conduction, convection and radiation. There’s a saying, “heat rises”. There is no law of physics or thermodynamics that makes this true. Gravity and buoyancy are the rules that apply. Practically this means gravity will pull the colder (so denser) fresh air to the floor and it will pool there. The convective cycle (buoyancy) that sets up around the sides of the stove is not likely to extend to the floor, unless there’s some skirting or ductwork that helps it out. The gravity furnace I installed has skirting for this purpose. One way to enhance the convective cycle to include that dense lower air would be to attach a pipe to the side of the stove and extend it down to within a couple of inches of the floor. (Sorry, I am an engineer😢).
Thank you. Ironically I planned on installing some sort of pipe with a small internal fan to suck up the warm air that will collect under the cieling and pump it under the floor towards the watertanks. My hope is to avoid any potential condensation on the cold tanks and to circulate the air. I also think the primary heat source is going to be the diesel heater and I installed the heat output as low as possible to avoid freezing toes.
@@adrianwoodworm The relationship between air temperature, relative humidity and dew point is often shown in psychometric charts. If you know the surface temperature of your tank then you can then look up the range of air temperatures and relative humidities that would not cause condensation. The risk with warm air is that it can hold more moisture in the form of water vapour, which would have a higher rh and may then actually increase the risk of condensation when it cools below dewpoint. I worked outside in the lower mainland for a couple of winters long ago. Maybe low rh exists out there somewhere but I sure never found any. I wonder if dehumidification might be a possibility if the air in the space around the tank could somehow be contained. Maintain a dry airspace with a desiccant and change it out when the tank is refilled? My father used to fill the leg of one of my mothers old nylons with calcium chloride and hang it in the root cellar🙈 It worked but there are lots of more visually appealing methods that don’t gross out the children as much.
@@flatlandriver2471 you have a good point there. It could be counterproductive to pump that air down there. Maybe I try it the way it is first and keep an eye on it. I made sure there is a lot of ventilation down there, so it might not be necessary. I saw recently small dehumidifiers on amazon that take very little electricity, that might be an option as well.
@@adrianwoodworm I agree with the wait and see approach. It’s a lot like installing a new toilet; you never know if the new tank is going to sweat until it’s all set up and working. Cheers🍻
I had a propane catalytic heater in my previous sailboat and thought about installing the same in our tiny houseboat. but on second thought, we decided to spend the winters in Mexico instead. If you plan to spend the winter in BC on your tiny then be prepared for lots of condensation. I found that a 60 watt light bulb under the bed (assuming the mattress is on vented) will take care of moisture on the mattress.
I can imagine! The catalytic heaters produce 1lbs of water vapor for every pound of propane that is burned. I cover the hole condensation theme in part 5 of this build. Seems like you made the best choice by spending the winters in Mexico!
@@adrianwoodworm the catalytic heater (still on the market) is positively vented so minimal water vapour from that. Most of the moisture comes from cooking and breathing.
@@ourtinyhouseboat Interesting! I might have to look into that. I didn't realize there are vented versions out there.
@@adrianwoodworm the one I had is the following -- Meet the 12V DC propane powered Platinum CAT! heater. Manufactured by A&L Enterprises in Tumwater, Washington, this compact, catalytic gas heater runs on natural gas or propane and may be safer than the built-in furnace found in most RVs.
@@ourtinyhouseboat thank you! I will look into that. It might be an interesting alternative!
Awesome unit and installation. Is “solid” fuel meaning wood or special fuel ?
Thank you! It means wood, presto log, coal or charcoal. Pretty much everything that burns, ideally slowly. I think they call it that way to differ from the diesel and propane heaters they offer.
I swear to you I had that thought about that, this mf just put a door in front of his fresh air intake! A door to the outside where all the fresh ait is.. I did a bit of facepalm!
😅yeah, you are not the first one who clued in afterwards. Thanks for watching.
Why not use a double B wall pipe?
No quite sure what double B wall pipe is, I assume it is a double walled stove pipe? I guess that answers the question, I am simply not aware of the kind of pipe you are talking about😄 I just stuck to what the company sold me and recommended in their kit. Also, it kind of sounds like it would insulate the pipe and transfer the heat to the outside, I would rather have as much heat radiating from the stovepipe as well as the stove itself.
You might want to go to Dickinson Diesel Heater...best install ever.