I'm really happy you worked on this Ranger. My dad got his 1992 Ranger as a one-year old truck. We still have it to this day. Great truck. 4 cyl, 5 speed :) It's stupid reliable.
Like I said, days ago, those had module problems. The SPOUT connector keeps the module from handling the timing control over to the ecm. Unplug the spout and the module runs on base time
So changing that module should be the fix? I don't know anything and I'm a nobody but I need these videos to learn thanks to everyone.... so I'm wrong.... Thanks for ur input guys....
@@albertcastle7786 : Actually, cleaning up the grounds and heat sink could fix it, if an auto parts store bench test has it come back okay. Just be warned: Removal of an ignition module off of the intake manifold can be not worth it, if the bolts that hold it on are corroded beyond repair. They are also very easy to strip the heads on as well.
had a '91 Ranger... same configuration... 2.3L dual plug, 5 speed standard cab short bed XLT. Great little truck. Drove it cross-country 5 times. You're right... they're a great little truck. No significant power to speak of, but always ran great. Never had a SPOUT connector issue with mine. Bought it 6 years old with 100k miles on it for $2000. Drove it another 7 years & 92k miles, & sold it for $1500.
The real joy of getting something working is the main thing. It does not depend if it really makes sense financially to make this kind of repair. Keep on going!
I still say check ALL the ground connections on the entire truck. Remove them all, clean all the spots where they connect with sandpaper, use some dielectric grease, and reconnect them. It can make a huge difference in reliability on these trucks. The ECU uses grounds to switch circuitry on/off...
Bad EEC is very common in these. I chased a driveability issue on my 97 with the 2.3 for a year before I finally replaced the EEC. Problems all went away and it ran WAY better.
Congrats on getting Ford Danger running. Ironically as you were checking out parts I noticed how garage roof was framed, beams run lengthwise (long ways) instead of crossways (short ways).
I also own a 93 2.3 Ranger. It just happens to be same color (except for your replacement hood). My coolant gauge has always indicated barely warm even when the engine reaches the normal operating temperature of 193 degrees Fahrenheit. Early on I contacted the previous owner but he assured me that it's normal and not to worry about it. Last spring I decided to replace the thermostat anyway. I ended up having to remove the fan, fan housing, and upper coolant hose in order to provide working room. The first attempt was a complete failure. The truck ran icy cold. I don't know how often this is the case, but the funky thermostat housing also needed to be replaced at the same time in order for the new thermostat to seat properly. I recommend that people replace both parts to save time. With the fan removed for the second time, I decided to also replace the fan clutch as preventative maintenance. That job doesn't take long. By the way, there was no change in the temperature gauge reading afterwards but it did provide some peace of mind. The driver side spark plugs are hidden under the intake manifold, fuel injector rail, and part of the wiring harness. Some are much harder to get to than others. The job of replacing plugs on that side is so difficult, in fact, that my shop manual recommends removing all the stuff blocking the way first. Wow, are you kidding me? It would be nice if someone posted a clear video on either how to remove the intake manifold and fuel injector rail or how to go about replacing the plugs with the least amount of hassle. There are some videos but I found them so murky and incomplete that they were useless.
Magical fix... still sounds electrical to me. In fact now that I'm thinking back to my brother in law's Ranger I believe he got the wiring harness too close to the exhaust manifold and it melted some of the wires into a chunk. Most of the wires stays separate, but a couple melted enough to touch intermittently.
I’m guessing that you could have a couple sticking valves. They hang up until you advance the timing and then they’re ok. Drive it for 50 mi with sea foam in the oil then change it with synthetic oil and call it a day.
The other spout connector changes the computer strategies for higher octane fuel. Common to unplug it when you have spark knock problems. You might have a Ignition module going bad.
WatchJRGo I used to work at Ford dealer until 2004, retired. My old mind remembers pulling spouts on no starts as part of flat rate diagnostics. But can’t remember the rest. Thinking it was something easy to repair. In eastern Canada those trucks are long rusted out and gone. It was a common problem at one time.
@@collinklitz7434 : TFI isnt used on a 1989-1998 truck, as EFI and DIS replaced carburetors and distributor ignitions in the same year. What you're referring to is a bad Ignition Control Module, located on the front of the intake manifold. And yes, those modules are known for having casing issues, corrosion, and grounding problems, because of the engine heat under the hood.
Makes me miss my 93'.Same color but long bed.Leased it for 2 years back in the day when I was selling new Ford's.Never had any problems with it.Wish I would of kept it!Little Pinto motor came a long way from the 70's.Dual plug head was a cool trick to squeeze a few more ponies out of the coral and also burned cleaner.Was also the 1st American engine designed with metric parts in this country when it was introduced for the 1974 model Mustang 2 and Pinto.Nice job getting it back going JR.
Watching this made me miss my 82 ranger. Same set up. The sold it to me because after he got the motor rebuilt he couldn't get it to stop leaking oil. I towed it home and immediately found the valve cover bolts were finger loose. I put a new gasket in it a pcv and filters. It took me another 100,000 miles before I sold it to a guy for $1,000. All I did was keep up on maintenance. It's still running to this day.
I had a '96 4.0 automatic. Purchased in '98 with 27k miles, ran to the ground at 332k miles. Engine was a beast, especially considering my lack of taking care of it. It should have died around 220k tops. Only had to replace front left caliper and solenoid, thermostat, tensioner pulley and belt, starter, tires a few times, and battery twice. Had it 11 years, and it saw 34 states.
Worked on an early 90's E-250 once that confounded me to no end. The entire ignition system replaced, TFI module, several sensors, fuel system gone through......just, no start-no-how........ended up being a bad ECU, which was surprisingly cheap from Napa.
Dam thank you for someone showing me wear the spout is !! Looked at tones of other videos nothing . But yours helped me a lot !!!! Thank you again!!!!! Paid 300$ for my 1993 Ford Ranger 2.3
The TFI module next to radiator ( on some models) is malfunctioning. If you still have issues with it not warming up, the impeller on water pump needs to be checked. I've been dealing with these engines for ages. Always the same issues. Here is something for you to wrap your head around, Do both spark plugs fire on the same cylinder or does the spark get wasted on the exhaust stroke on the other cylinder? For those who don't know, these engines have 8 spark plugs.
I was going to say I had a 1991 explorer that had all kinds of strange problems like this. After trying all kinds of things for years we finally figured out the ECU circuit board was all corroded on the back side. Replaced it and sold the thing. It's still driving around town now.
Ford had 2 different ICMs during the OBD1 years, gray and black (you can look it up, thousands of blogs sites) Sometimes both ICMs in the same model year, but the ECU works differently depending on the ICM. An issue with part stores is they all make gray ones, so if you go to OReiley or NAPA...they just come in gray. If the spout connector removed is allowing the car to run, you might have the wrong ICM, because the spout operation is different for each one. If you decide to trouble shoot deeper, I would recommenced you look up the correct ICM using the serial number of your ECU, and go with a genuine motorcraft part to ensure it’s the correct ICM. Oh...and another ford idea...there is a special thin wall socket to fit inside the ICM to remove it from the heat sink. Good luck!
Just started following the channel when you started this truck. I have to say i really enjoy the videos and you've got a new subscriber!! Great content :)
Josh... Smells like Pennzoil, Car Wzard licks the dipstick, nope Valvoline, licks a second time...yup 20W-50. Great video, love the Josh GoPro out the window action shot!
Well, I was wrong, I'll own it! I honestly thought the cat converter was it. On the actual problem, I'm not sure in this one, but a friend had one around that era, bought it brand new and it had similar issues, turned out the ECU was mounted under the dash and one of the pinch welds was leaking letting water run into the the ECU and shorting it out. The dealership ended up giving him another truck. Might be worth a look at the connectors? Also, Ford Motorsports used to sell a camshaft for these, I put one in my '94 2.3l, really opens them up around town, lots more low end and driveable power, it still sucked on the highway, but a good city truck.
Already said days ago unplug the SPOUT connector. Timing advance is NOT controlled by the ICM, its controlled by the main computer receiving the PIP signal. Replacing the ECU can still not be the problem. The problem can be the PIP sensor inside the distributor, solved by replacing the distributor.
Went down this exact same rabbit hole with my '93 Ranger about year ago. Long story short, both coil packs are bad. This engine is twin plug head. It has separate coils for each bank of plugs. One or both will be used at different times depending on engine speed, load, and temp. All controlled by the ICM. The truck runs without the SPOUT because it's in default setting, using both coils and banks of plugs at the same time. When running like this each coil pack picks up where the other one is not giving a strong enough spark. One plug will fire where the other in the same cylinder will not, allowing the engine to run.
The obvious solution is to put an on/off dash switch to the SPOUT connector. Or buy a new PCM like everybody in comments says it needs. For a Ranger, really, either option is fine. It's a ranger. Make it run and do things. EDIT: Just saw you got a PCM on order, good job doing it right.
Its called it's a ford syndrome. This happens when the truck figures out it is a ford. Now don't worry it's easy to fix: Step 1 remove the ford badging. Step 2 replace them with Toyota badging. Step 3 clap 4 times. Step 4 say "Boom done". After you complete these steps the truck will come to life. Defiantly thing the ECU is shot good work man keep it up
Thanks for the content as well. much appreciated normality. out here in the bay area people are acting as if the world is ending not just interrupted. keep it up!!! Buy a lexus is300!!!
Ford went OBDII in 1995 & 1/2. This is when they got the capability to read data from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) via a scan tool. The pre-OBDII was flash codes that read through the dash MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) and could be initialized by a jumper under the hood or with a code reader that used the same connector's. The symptom that is being experienced by that old Ranger is most likely a bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. The same issue is common in most MAF cars and trucks. Runs crappy or will not start with the SPOUT connector plugged in. Unplug the SPOUT connector and it starts and runs. When the SPOUT connector is unplugged the engine runs in Open Loop Mode and the timing is fixed at 10 degrees BTDC. That is why it starts and runs but has poor acceleration and overall performance. In this mode of operation the Air/Fuel ratio is also fixed and ignores the Oxygen Sensor input.
The 2.3l ohc Lima engine thats came in the rangers of that generation are 1 of fords most reliable engines ford made. The oil pump is the back bone of that motor. Superior oil lubrication is the factor of their longevity
I had a little old Ranger like that. Best vehicle I ever owned. I’d have snatched that thing up in a hurry for $300. Not that I need a forth pickup parked in the yard, but damn those little Rangers are sweet!
I wish you could get a truck like that here in the UK. Everything of this vintage in this rundown state is rusty as hell. The idea of getting a truck in this condition and price that you could make reasonably reliable for a low cost just can't happen when rust is a factor. The frame would be crusty with so many holes to patch, you have to have some good steel to weld too!
See that spaghetti wiring barfing out of the dash? That is prob the source of the issue. I have seen remote start installations do weird stuff like that. -- Oh and I want to say I am proud of U guys for buying trouble-shooting fixing and selling. I used to do that back in the day of the Gremlin and 67 Firebirds. Esp. proud that U share your knowledge and experiences! -- Good job!
When you unplug the SPOUT connector you are literally unplugging the connection between the ICM and ECM. It bypasses the main computer. The ECM sends the dwell times to the ICM and it reacts to it by firing the ignition coil on time and gives the coil time to recharge. The reason it fails is because if timing advance is incorrect then the ignition coil cannot maintain a consistent spark and the truck will not run.
Gut it and slap Fitech on it. Spend less time and money doing that than fixings fords retarded EFI. I've fought it before. Shits evil. I ain't got time for evil.
Say what you want about Ford early EFI and TFI systems but when they work, no one has any complaints. Even Ford TTB axels provide a really smooth ride when they have their issues sorted out.
I've got two 94's and a 96 that I'm putting in a 2.5 Great videos as always. I would have sent you an ECU. You're right, they usually run forever, but sorely lacking power.
I'm currently having this problem with my 94 ranger it was running fine but one day to another it died and wouldn't start. Do you know what could it be ?
I had a 91 Ranger with a similar problem right after Superstorm Sandy, drove me crazy. Could figure it out to saver my life. Pulled air cleaner and it ran great, idle a little high but ran. Looked more into it and ended up getting MAF cleaner, sprayed it down and the thing ran great afterwards
My Ranger always ran a bit cold. But I never had issue with that part(Spout). Mine has 323K on it. Not a typo. It's parked right now awaiting a suspension/brake/body mount rebuild. Then going to put a newer motor and trans in it. Then its my son's. He was brought home from the hospital in it. He's 15 now. Gonna keep an eye out for other rangers that dont run just for parts.
that's a wierd one... sounds like the TFI (ignition) module then, usually when they go they just go. it could also be a wiring issue somewhere, but usually the TFI module will get really hot if it's bad. The TFI module is the one that used to be on the distributor on the older ones, but moved to a little aluminum block on the inner fender. Also, 5.0L EEC IV v8's from that era swap into those trucks very easily, and the wiring harness will plug in if you get another truck harness :)
I’m thinking it’s a partially sheared woodruff key at the crank. I would check the alignment of both the crank and cam sprockets to their respective shafts then set the timing again.
Did you check coolant temp sensor? When I use to work on Genie boom lifts, with 2.3L ford engine, it was common to have a no start due to a faulty coolant temp sensor
My diagnosis? You've got either a bad Ignition Module (located on the intake manifold, which can get corroded or have grounding issues), or a bad coil pack. The reason why the engine sounds the way it does when you restart it, is very simple: The engine is "loping," which would indicate that half of your cylinders aren't getting spark when the ECU is controlling the truck. Usually that indicates a wiring issue between the ignition module and the primary coil pack, as the secondary coil pack has a much weaker spark. What I would do to isolate the issue is switch the coil packs around, and see if the problem goes away. If yes, then your problem is a coil pack with a too-high resistance value, which is common, given that those coil packs sit right above the exhaust. If no, then the ignition module is bad, and needs replacing, as the signal from the ECU, through the module, through the coil, and through the plugs, hasn't changed, even though which coil pack being used as the primary coil pack is. There is also a chance both coil packs could have high resistance values. But given that the truck runs with no problems with that connector out at base timing, my suspicion is the ignition module, in that its shorting out half of the cylinders when that connector is plugged in.
Grounds? I have found on fords of that time a lot of times cleaning and inspecting the connections made the fix last longer. The gremlins have driven me crazy over the years, grounds are the first thing I check now. the small ground wire off the battery has a connection that looks like a fusible link. also if it has battery clamps replaced , folks seem to like to disconnect the frame ground lug on the wire to get a little more length to the wire. The bad grounds can cause weird / non working fuel gauge, tail lights, turn signals and other assorted intermittent weirdness.
I always buy broke down vehicles cheap and fix them. I bought my cream puff 93 Explorer for $500. It ended up needing a CPU. I bought a pretty nice 97 S10 4.3L manual transmission. It needed a transmission & clutch. I got that for $700. Spent $800 to fix it. I could have fixed it cheaper but I don't like using the cheapest parts. And I replaced the engine & transmission mounts. They both drive good,been driving them for 4 and 6 years now. At least they are paid for. Both have nice paint,no dents and good interiors. The Explorer had 120k on it and the Chevy had 175k on the clock.
JR: don't worry about losing your job - you may be working on $300 Rangers now, but with your smooth delivery, agreeable personality, and strong work ethic you'll become a TH-cam star and be working on Lamborghinis by next year (like everyone's favorite Russian Hispanic). And I'll lose interest. I mean how many Lambo rebuilds can people watch? In the meantime, keep up the good work.
I just bought a project ranger for $350 with a brand new battery. It's a 1996 Supercab XLT 3.0. Runs and drives fine, but been giving codes that prevent it from passing california smog. Sad that so many fine cars and trucks get junked in this state because those smog laws. 😪
Thats what I was thinking install momentary switch which would be open when pushed after it starts switch would stay closed would be a great work truck.
You said the virus by its name, you'll get demonatized for that. Cant afford that bro, ads are the only thing keeping you from losing money on your flips lol.
ive got a 53 dodge 3/4 ton truck ( m37 ) army truck runs like a top im 86 yrs old still love to tinker with every day its built like a tank also has pto winch 7500 lbs pullin power
Just pop the top on that ECU and replace the capacitors. If the capacitance or capacitor's ESR (equivalent series resistance) has drifted due to age, it could be throwing off the ECU in some way or another that makes symptoms such as this. Might as well try the 50 cent fix first.
Eyyy. Found an article mentioning the '93 ranger and capacitors in the ECU causing this kind of problem. Called it! www.tinkerandfiddlewith.com/ranger.htm
I'm really happy you worked on this Ranger. My dad got his 1992 Ranger as a one-year old truck. We still have it to this day. Great truck. 4 cyl, 5 speed :) It's stupid reliable.
Probably one of the best small trucks ever made incredibly reliable
Top 3 all time ...91 Toyota .94 ranger XLT 4.0 and grave digger
Like I said, days ago, those had module problems. The SPOUT connector keeps the module from handling the timing control over to the ecm. Unplug the spout and the module runs on base time
I think it might be the TFI module
So changing that module should be the fix? I don't know anything and I'm a nobody but I need these videos to learn thanks to everyone.... so I'm wrong.... Thanks for ur input guys....
Hey Remember on that first video when we all said the computer wasnt taking over? +1 to OP
@@albertcastle7786 : Actually, cleaning up the grounds and heat sink could fix it, if an auto parts store bench test has it come back okay.
Just be warned: Removal of an ignition module off of the intake manifold can be not worth it, if the bolts that hold it on are corroded beyond repair. They are also very easy to strip the heads on as well.
had a '91 Ranger... same configuration... 2.3L dual plug, 5 speed standard cab short bed XLT. Great little truck. Drove it cross-country 5 times. You're right... they're a great little truck. No significant power to speak of, but always ran great. Never had a SPOUT connector issue with mine. Bought it 6 years old with 100k miles on it for $2000. Drove it another 7 years & 92k miles, & sold it for $1500.
I am an avid fan of crime shows, this 'Who Done It' topped them all!
😂 OBD1 did it, I always blame that junk
@@WatchJRGo Well it was an awesome journey, who woulda thunk!
10:36 that wire loom is really close to that belt might wanna find a cover or move that before something bad happens
There is normally a cover on the timing belt so it doesn't touch
The real joy of getting something working is the main thing. It does not depend if it really makes sense financially to make this kind of repair. Keep on going!
Perhaps the lower timing sensor has the wiring mixed up when they soldered it in.
"He got it FIXED? Guess i better stop everything I'm doing to figure out how."
It's okay, we still don't know how... but 99% sure it's a failed ECU 😂
@@WatchJRGo first thing I said Jr go!
Why don't you fix the video volume so we might be able to hear it
My bad your good my phone is the problem
@@WatchJRGo Did you check the wiring on the return side of the spout?
I still say check ALL the ground connections on the entire truck. Remove them all, clean all the spots where they connect with sandpaper, use some dielectric grease, and reconnect them. It can make a huge difference in reliability on these trucks. The ECU uses grounds to switch circuitry on/off...
Jesus loves you alot trust in His death 4 salvation and be saved from eternal hell
@@Fit4CJesus is a modern made-up name that did not exist even 500 years ago. In fact the letter "J" is a relatively recent invention.
I recently bought the same model truck, but a 94, for 200 bucks. Been going through the exact same stuff. Great videos!
Bad EEC is very common in these. I chased a driveability issue on my 97 with the 2.3 for a year before I finally replaced the EEC. Problems all went away and it ran WAY better.
Congrats on getting Ford Danger running. Ironically as you were checking out parts I noticed how garage roof was framed, beams run lengthwise (long ways) instead of crossways (short ways).
I also own a 93 2.3 Ranger. It just happens to be same color (except for your replacement hood). My coolant gauge has always indicated barely warm even when the engine reaches the normal operating temperature of 193 degrees Fahrenheit. Early on I contacted the previous owner but he assured me that it's normal and not to worry about it. Last spring I decided to replace the thermostat anyway. I ended up having to remove the fan, fan housing, and upper coolant hose in order to provide working room. The first attempt was a complete failure. The truck ran icy cold. I don't know how often this is the case, but the funky thermostat housing also needed to be replaced at the same time in order for the new thermostat to seat properly. I recommend that people replace both parts to save time. With the fan removed for the second time, I decided to also replace the fan clutch as preventative maintenance. That job doesn't take long. By the way, there was no change in the temperature gauge reading afterwards but it did provide some peace of mind.
The driver side spark plugs are hidden under the intake manifold, fuel injector rail, and part of the wiring harness. Some are much harder to get to than others. The job of replacing plugs on that side is so difficult, in fact, that my shop manual recommends removing all the stuff blocking the way first. Wow, are you kidding me? It would be nice if someone posted a clear video on either how to remove the intake manifold and fuel injector rail or how to go about replacing the plugs with the least amount of hassle. There are some videos but I found them so murky and incomplete that they were useless.
Magical fix... still sounds electrical to me. In fact now that I'm thinking back to my brother in law's Ranger I believe he got the wiring harness too close to the exhaust manifold and it melted some of the wires into a chunk. Most of the wires stays separate, but a couple melted enough to touch intermittently.
I would totally put a switch in.👍 Excited for the upcoming Ford truck vids.
Posted for 1 hour 13k views damn this channel is getting big... Been here since damn near the beginning... Keep it up
I’m guessing that you could have a couple sticking valves. They hang up until you advance the timing and then they’re ok. Drive it for 50 mi with sea foam in the oil then change it with synthetic oil and call it a day.
The other spout connector changes the computer strategies for higher octane fuel. Common to unplug it when you have spark knock problems. You might have a Ignition module going bad.
We did try a brand new ignition module, no change (with and without the SPOUT connector, you can see the old one pop back in during the video) 😬
WatchJRGo I used to work at Ford dealer until 2004, retired. My old mind remembers pulling spouts on no starts as part of flat rate diagnostics. But can’t remember the rest. Thinking it was something easy to repair. In eastern Canada those trucks are long rusted out and gone. It was a common problem at one time.
@@drost582 It may be a bad TFI module. It is located on the back of the distributor.
@@collinklitz7434 : TFI isnt used on a 1989-1998 truck, as EFI and DIS replaced carburetors and distributor ignitions in the same year.
What you're referring to is a bad Ignition Control Module, located on the front of the intake manifold. And yes, those modules are known for having casing issues, corrosion, and grounding problems, because of the engine heat under the hood.
I knew you guys couldn’t be defeated, I loved the ranger series. I like to see a challenge.
Makes me miss my 93'.Same color but long bed.Leased it for 2 years back in the day when I was selling new Ford's.Never had any problems with it.Wish I would of kept it!Little Pinto motor came a long way from the 70's.Dual plug head was a cool trick to squeeze a few more ponies out of the coral and also burned cleaner.Was also the 1st American engine designed with metric parts in this country when it was introduced for the 1974 model Mustang 2 and Pinto.Nice job getting it back going JR.
I’ll offer you a 1 ounce hand sanitizer and 10 cups of ramen for this truck. Lol
Looking for minimum 1 pallet TP 😛
WatchJRGo I can meet half way with one of those comically huge TP rolls from Charmin lol
I got your pallet of tp
Don't forget the toilet paper ! (Since some idiot out there has stock piled 1 million rolls.)
@@Bizones16 lol that's what this whole thread was about... Tp =toilet paper. :-D
Watching this made me miss my 82 ranger. Same set up. The sold it to me because after he got the motor rebuilt he couldn't get it to stop leaking oil. I towed it home and immediately found the valve cover bolts were finger loose. I put a new gasket in it a pcv and filters. It took me another 100,000 miles before I sold it to a guy for $1,000. All I did was keep up on maintenance. It's still running to this day.
I had a '96 4.0 automatic. Purchased in '98 with 27k miles, ran to the ground at 332k miles. Engine was a beast, especially considering my lack of taking care of it. It should have died around 220k tops. Only had to replace front left caliper and solenoid, thermostat, tensioner pulley and belt, starter, tires a few times, and battery twice. Had it 11 years, and it saw 34 states.
Worked on an early 90's E-250 once that confounded me to no end.
The entire ignition system replaced, TFI module, several sensors, fuel system gone through......just, no start-no-how........ended up being a bad ECU, which was surprisingly cheap from Napa.
Love this gen ranger. No more truck than you need, plenty of power for its size
Good job getting it back to life.
My first new vehicle was a 1994 Ranger XL.
Had the same color as the hood on your '93.
Dam thank you for someone showing me wear the spout is !! Looked at tones of other videos nothing . But yours helped me a lot !!!! Thank you again!!!!! Paid 300$ for my 1993 Ford Ranger 2.3
keep up the videos JR we need the distraction right now..:)
You are the best man!!! You inspire me to flip!! Please keep up all the great videos I’ve been Watching everything!
I couldn't wait to watch and hear what the fix was! It wasn't clear but I'm thinking you said you will replace the ECU
The TFI module next to radiator ( on some models) is malfunctioning. If you still have issues with it not warming up, the impeller on water pump needs to be checked. I've been dealing with these engines for ages. Always the same issues. Here is something for you to wrap your head around, Do both spark plugs fire on the same cylinder or does the spark get wasted on the exhaust stroke on the other cylinder? For those who don't know, these engines have 8 spark plugs.
I was going to say I had a 1991 explorer that had all kinds of strange problems like this. After trying all kinds of things for years we finally figured out the ECU circuit board was all corroded on the back side. Replaced it and sold the thing. It's still driving around town now.
Ford had 2 different ICMs during the OBD1 years, gray and black (you can look it up, thousands of blogs sites) Sometimes both ICMs in the same model year, but the ECU works differently depending on the ICM. An issue with part stores is they all make gray ones, so if you go to OReiley or NAPA...they just come in gray. If the spout connector removed is allowing the car to run, you might have the wrong ICM, because the spout operation is different for each one. If you decide to trouble shoot deeper, I would recommenced you look up the correct ICM using the serial number of your ECU, and go with a genuine motorcraft part to ensure it’s the correct ICM. Oh...and another ford idea...there is a special thin wall socket to fit inside the ICM to remove it from the heat sink. Good luck!
Yeah, no shit! Had to grind a socket to get that twerp ICM off me Aero1star.
Nice little series. Keep up the good work
Just started following the channel when you started this truck. I have to say i really enjoy the videos and you've got a new subscriber!! Great content :)
Friggin lost it at "I know what I've got" lmao
Well we have a sheltered in place order where i live for the next 3 weeks any chance you can upload 2 videos a day to keep us entertained? 😂
If only you knew.....
Check the cam timing, they can jump a tooth If push started. Injector drivers in the ecu might be toasty as well. Good luck
The Ford Ranger was quite interested. I love when it come to troubleshoot. that was my favorite show like a mystery movie
Josh... Smells like Pennzoil, Car Wzard licks the dipstick, nope Valvoline, licks a second time...yup 20W-50.
Great video, love the Josh GoPro out the window action shot!
Car lubricants are an acquired taste, I prefer Motul for the color! 😂
So basically you're proposing a switch for manual control of timing during starting... like the Model T... lol I love it
You guys are good at what you do. My compliments. Hey, someone will have a good work truck for transportation.
Well, I was wrong, I'll own it! I honestly thought the cat converter was it.
On the actual problem, I'm not sure in this one, but a friend had one around that era, bought it brand new and it had similar issues, turned out the ECU was mounted under the dash and one of the pinch welds was leaking letting water run into the the ECU and shorting it out. The dealership ended up giving him another truck. Might be worth a look at the connectors?
Also, Ford Motorsports used to sell a camshaft for these, I put one in my '94 2.3l, really opens them up around town, lots more low end and driveable power, it still sucked on the highway, but a good city truck.
Please need to see a Ranger clean episode
Already said days ago unplug the SPOUT connector. Timing advance is NOT controlled by the ICM, its controlled by the main computer receiving the PIP signal. Replacing the ECU can still not be the problem. The problem can be the PIP sensor inside the distributor, solved by replacing the distributor.
Went down this exact same rabbit hole with my '93 Ranger about year ago. Long story short, both coil packs are bad. This engine is twin plug head. It has separate coils for each bank of plugs. One or both will be used at different times depending on engine speed, load, and temp. All controlled by the ICM. The truck runs without the SPOUT because it's in default setting, using both coils and banks of plugs at the same time. When running like this each coil pack picks up where the other one is not giving a strong enough spark. One plug will fire where the other in the same cylinder will not, allowing the engine to run.
The obvious solution is to put an on/off dash switch to the SPOUT connector. Or buy a new PCM like everybody in comments says it needs. For a Ranger, really, either option is fine. It's a ranger. Make it run and do things.
EDIT: Just saw you got a PCM on order, good job doing it right.
A 1993 Ranger doesn't have a PCM.
It has an Ignition Control Module that controls ignition timing from the ECM.
Glad you got it fixed it looks just like my!!
Its called it's a ford syndrome. This happens when the truck figures out it is a ford. Now don't worry it's easy to fix:
Step 1 remove the ford badging.
Step 2 replace them with Toyota badging.
Step 3 clap 4 times.
Step 4 say "Boom done".
After you complete these steps the truck will come to life.
Defiantly thing the ECU is shot good work man keep it up
Thanks for the content as well. much appreciated normality. out here in the bay area people are acting as if the world is ending not just interrupted. keep it up!!! Buy a lexus is300!!!
Yooo this is my truck, that's awesome to seee the last owner!
Knew you'd get it running! Great work.
Ford went OBDII in 1995 & 1/2. This is when they got the capability to read data from the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) via a scan tool. The pre-OBDII was flash codes that read through the dash MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) and could be initialized by a jumper under the hood or with a code reader that used the same connector's. The symptom that is being experienced by that old Ranger is most likely a bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. The same issue is common in most MAF cars and trucks. Runs crappy or will not start with the SPOUT connector plugged in. Unplug the SPOUT connector and it starts and runs. When the SPOUT connector is unplugged the engine runs in Open Loop Mode and the timing is fixed at 10 degrees BTDC. That is why it starts and runs but has poor acceleration and overall performance. In this mode of operation the Air/Fuel ratio is also fixed and ignores the Oxygen Sensor input.
Glad you figured it out, makes me want another Ranger lol
The last video someone commented on it being a possible factory alarm issue, and this looks like he was on the right trail.
Congrats on figuring it out, now you know why former owner threw in towel. Got it running, Im going to buy a lottery ticket.
The 2.3l ohc Lima engine
thats came in the rangers of that generation are 1 of fords most reliable engines ford made. The oil pump is the back bone of that motor. Superior oil lubrication is the factor of their longevity
I had a little old Ranger like that. Best vehicle I ever owned. I’d have snatched that thing up in a hurry for $300. Not that I need a forth pickup parked in the yard, but damn those little Rangers are sweet!
I wish you could get a truck like that here in the UK. Everything of this vintage in this rundown state is rusty as hell. The idea of getting a truck in this condition and price that you could make reasonably reliable for a low cost just can't happen when rust is a factor. The frame would be crusty with so many holes to patch, you have to have some good steel to weld too!
This has been a really interesting short story. I've been following this one closely.
rangers are good for 500k miles as long as you maintain them ,change oil regularly
See that spaghetti wiring barfing out of the dash? That is prob the source of the issue. I have seen remote start installations do weird stuff like that.
-- Oh and I want to say I am proud of U guys for buying trouble-shooting fixing and selling. I used to do that back in the day of the Gremlin and 67 Firebirds. Esp. proud that U share your knowledge and experiences!
-- Good job!
Bought my ranger for 200. 00 from a buddy of mine bright it back from the dead and he is amazed how it fixed it up
When you unplug the SPOUT connector you are literally unplugging the connection between the ICM and ECM. It bypasses the main computer. The ECM sends the dwell times to the ICM and it reacts to it by firing the ignition coil on time and gives the coil time to recharge. The reason it fails is because if timing advance is incorrect then the ignition coil cannot maintain a consistent spark and the truck will not run.
I think it might be the TFI module
Gut it and slap Fitech on it. Spend less time and money doing that than fixings fords retarded EFI. I've fought it before. Shits evil. I ain't got time for evil.
Say what you want about Ford early EFI and TFI systems but when they work, no one has any complaints. Even Ford TTB axels provide a really smooth ride when they have their issues sorted out.
@@TheRazor375 TTB is one thing. EFI after 20 plus years is another. That random if eats at people worse than a ball joint.
i give you 4 pallets of toilet paper for that including shipping
Better be bringing one of those to your future shop.
I've got two 94's and a 96 that I'm putting in a 2.5 Great videos as always. I would have sent you an ECU. You're right, they usually run forever, but sorely lacking power.
I'm currently having this problem with my 94 ranger it was running fine but one day to another it died and wouldn't start. Do you know what could it be ?
I had a 91 Ranger with a similar problem right after Superstorm Sandy, drove me crazy. Could figure it out to saver my life. Pulled air cleaner and it ran great, idle a little high but ran. Looked more into it and ended up getting MAF cleaner, sprayed it down and the thing ran great afterwards
Nice! I clean a lot of MAFs around here, if nothing else it’s a good maintenance item 🍻
Same
It’s a modern choke ! xD
My Ranger always ran a bit cold. But I never had issue with that part(Spout). Mine has 323K on it. Not a typo. It's parked right now awaiting a suspension/brake/body mount rebuild. Then going to put a newer motor and trans in it. Then its my son's. He was brought home from the hospital in it. He's 15 now. Gonna keep an eye out for other rangers that dont run just for parts.
You have a restrictor in the intake pipe you can remove and free up some free horsepower and throttle response👍👍
nice job getting it running but may i suggest a spray bottle with gas instead of starting fluid next time :)
that's a wierd one... sounds like the TFI (ignition) module then, usually when they go they just go. it could also be a wiring issue somewhere, but usually the TFI module will get really hot if it's bad. The TFI module is the one that used to be on the distributor on the older ones, but moved to a little aluminum block on the inner fender. Also, 5.0L EEC IV v8's from that era swap into those trucks very easily, and the wiring harness will plug in if you get another truck harness :)
I’m thinking it’s a partially sheared woodruff key at the crank. I would check the alignment of both the crank and cam sprockets to their respective shafts then set the timing again.
Awesome videos. I wish I knew the inside of my ranger like the back of my hand lol appreciate the insight. Just traded my 97 for a 90.
Did you check coolant temp sensor? When I use to work on Genie boom lifts, with 2.3L ford engine, it was common to have a no start due to a faulty coolant temp sensor
My diagnosis? You've got either a bad Ignition Module (located on the intake manifold, which can get corroded or have grounding issues), or a bad coil pack.
The reason why the engine sounds the way it does when you restart it, is very simple: The engine is "loping," which would indicate that half of your cylinders aren't getting spark when the ECU is controlling the truck. Usually that indicates a wiring issue between the ignition module and the primary coil pack, as the secondary coil pack has a much weaker spark.
What I would do to isolate the issue is switch the coil packs around, and see if the problem goes away. If yes, then your problem is a coil pack with a too-high resistance value, which is common, given that those coil packs sit right above the exhaust. If no, then the ignition module is bad, and needs replacing, as the signal from the ECU, through the module, through the coil, and through the plugs, hasn't changed, even though which coil pack being used as the primary coil pack is. There is also a chance both coil packs could have high resistance values.
But given that the truck runs with no problems with that connector out at base timing, my suspicion is the ignition module, in that its shorting out half of the cylinders when that connector is plugged in.
Grounds? I have found on fords of that time a lot of times cleaning and inspecting the connections made the fix last longer. The gremlins have driven me crazy over the years, grounds are the first thing I check now. the small ground wire off the battery has a connection that looks like a fusible link. also if it has battery clamps replaced , folks seem to like to disconnect the frame ground lug on the wire to get a little more length to the wire. The bad grounds can cause weird / non working fuel gauge, tail lights, turn signals and other assorted intermittent weirdness.
I have an 09 ranger not super surprised on how little things have changed (mine is the 5 speed manual with the 2.3 as well)
I always buy broke down vehicles cheap and fix them. I bought my cream puff 93 Explorer for $500. It ended up needing a CPU. I bought a pretty nice 97 S10 4.3L manual transmission. It needed a transmission & clutch. I got that for $700. Spent $800 to fix it. I could have fixed it cheaper but I don't like using the cheapest parts. And I replaced the engine & transmission mounts. They both drive good,been driving them for 4 and 6 years now. At least they are paid for. Both have nice paint,no dents and good interiors. The Explorer had 120k on it and the Chevy had 175k on the clock.
LOL Josh "Might be able to get a couple rolls of TP out of this thing"
One thing I like is he doesn't use the "F" word every other word. Or other foul language.
Every time I watch one of your videos it reminds me of king of the hill 😂😂😂
Totally agreed on the switch solution. I was thinking the same thing.
JR: don't worry about losing your job - you may be working on $300 Rangers now, but with your smooth delivery, agreeable personality, and strong work ethic you'll become a TH-cam star and be working on Lamborghinis by next year (like everyone's favorite Russian Hispanic). And I'll lose interest. I mean how many Lambo rebuilds can people watch? In the meantime, keep up the good work.
I just bought a project ranger for $350 with a brand new battery. It's a 1996 Supercab XLT 3.0. Runs and drives fine, but been giving codes that prevent it from passing california smog. Sad that so many fine cars and trucks get junked in this state because those smog laws. 😪
That's freaking awesome dude. Great job
That IAC gave me flash backs to my 90 foxbody lol
Thats what I was thinking install momentary switch which would be open when pushed after it starts switch would stay closed would be a great work truck.
You said the virus by its name, you'll get demonatized for that. Cant afford that bro, ads are the only thing keeping you from losing money on your flips lol.
Doh! what he said!!
they are starting to allow videos that say corona virus to stay monetized I just searched it up
@@noobjitsu1743 You have no idea what you've just done.
🙄 Just had to say it, didn't you
@@dealornodealproductions7314 *British Accent* I cant believe youve done this!
Noob Jitsu he is right
ive got a 53 dodge 3/4 ton truck ( m37 ) army truck runs like a top im 86 yrs old still love to tinker with every day its built like a tank also has pto winch 7500 lbs pullin power
Just pop the top on that ECU and replace the capacitors. If the capacitance or capacitor's ESR (equivalent series resistance) has drifted due to age, it could be throwing off the ECU in some way or another that makes symptoms such as this. Might as well try the 50 cent fix first.
Eyyy. Found an article mentioning the '93 ranger and capacitors in the ECU causing this kind of problem. Called it! www.tinkerandfiddlewith.com/ranger.htm
Today I find out Jr is allergic to wiring diagram.. 🤦♂️
Seems like he's allergic to actual work
If you guys come to California I’ll give you guys a car that runs and drives but has some issues, would love to see it on the channel
Yes a video!!!!!! Do a live one, of you working R8 motor
Kinda planning on it but the other Ford truck has to be wrapped up first, it's a very short project 🍻
WatchJRGo areyou referring to the old f150? The white camper special truck?
Add a switch to the dash and wire it in place of the spout connector. Flick it off to start, on to run. Saves opening the hood.
If I got to help Watch JR Goes work on the Ford Ranger I would drink the cold Bartle Skeets and puff on the Cannabis Cigar and get all schmoked up.
Bob!!!
Take it to car max and see what they will give you for it!🤣😂
$1 lol
Great job guys