Andrew, I have shied away from reballing for the past 6 years as I went deep into it about 8 years ago with zero success. That was not for lack of trying to be sure. I believe now I will dive in again with your help, that you have already provided, and give it another go. The biggest thing beside this video that makes me think that I will succeed is your demonstration of how little flux is needed/wanted for reballing to be successful. I cannot thank you enough. I don't think that I will make any serious money doing this but, I want to make things work that currently don't. Thank you for making these videos and sharing the information that you have. 8 years ago there was nothing to go on, just flew by the seat of me pants. Cheers from Florida!
@@realfamvigilante2829 Hi, not used an IR6500 but did own an IR-Pro-SC for a year or so. Hated it - never really got to grips with it - the thing was so inconsistent between runs it was nigh on impossible to nail a profile down on it. Changed it for the RE-8500 and the differences were instantly noticeable for the better. Predictable temperature ramps, even heat and most importantly it was incredibly consistent.
I popcorned ny first Ps3 GPU, should of watched this first. was very anxious to get started, now, I will slow the hell down, and work the profile out. Dont have a very expensive Jovy like yours, but its just a hobby for me. enjoy your vids very much.Very informative. Thanks
+Andrew Paul Thanks Andrew, just waitin for some more vids. Best on the tube bye the way. Keep it up! If you ever get some time, would you do a quick one on PS3 HDMI and USB circuits. Thanks
So, basically preheat time can last several minutes to get board above ambient room temp, then soak is 1-2 deg/Sec to target temp in the neighborhood of 200-225 degree. Reflow is at the target temp for about 45 seconds to remove package. then Cool reducing temp 1-2 degree a sec down to 100 degrees. times vary depending on boards/packages/ solder types.. correct?
Glad to hear that,I can remember a x box with issues, I heated the board to about 150 degrees,reassembled and low and behold worked,clearly solder don't melt until 217 degrees,so clearly a issue wi the die on the bga.
I always share information that I learn because it helps if u don't share information then you should have your internet took away and not get any information. Thank you so much it helps alot and I'm working on a profile. The chip is known for having alot of heat to come off. When I start a profile I always use multiple temp probes because of the different from machines and just temp and people's home. I use in a not called room. My gf turned on ac and it messed everything up.
Many thanks for your comment. Indeed, ambient temperature can wreak havoc with your profile if there is an extreme difference in the temperature from when you developed the profile.
Thanx Paul for this Video, my Jovy Re 0 8500, arrives today, and was about to ask you regarding your profiles :) i will start build my own, thanx alot, only One thing missing now: Fume extractor :)
hello Andrew Paul Can you help me with the hot air BGA profile, the upper and lower parts can write the required numbers for the PlayStation 3 and Playstation 4 and with high accuracy I am most likely open dead RSX orAPU is dead
what temp would u recommend for the bottom heater, before the top heater cones into play,not used my achi for years,but I'm sure I used to take it to 180 degrees,it was the dwell times I could never get correct.
+Nell Nelly Never tried it but wouldn't have thought so with any great success - you'd have to subject the bottom side of the board to some very high temps for a prolonged period to attempt it I should think. Definitely utilise a top heater.
The bottom heater should do the bulk of the heavy work, yes - 70/30 probably the fair estimate. You don't want to subject the BGA directly to high temperatures with top heaters as popcorning is then a real possibility.
Have you had any returns on the ps4 reballs that uve done,I fell out with reballing some years ago,major come backs,I believe the bga's are actually at fault,rather than a solder ball issue.
+Nell Nelly None - the one machine that came back turned out to be a PSU issue and not a re-occurance of the BGA soldering fault. Normally I'd agree (certainly in the case of 3-5 year old laptop flipchips) that the chips themselves are the issue, but I do not believe this to be the case with the PS4 - applying pressure above the APU in most BLOD cases I've seen will bring the machine to life but will fail again when this pressure is released. I've also witnessed missing balls and dry joints under the APU BGAs. It's a manufacturing defect on these machines for sure in my opinion.
![WE GOT ACCESS TO GPT-3! [Epic Special Edition]](/img/n.gif)
Andrew, I have shied away from reballing for the past 6 years as I went deep into it about 8 years ago with zero success. That was not for lack of trying to be sure. I believe now I will dive in again with your help, that you have already provided, and give it another go. The biggest thing beside this video that makes me think that I will succeed is your demonstration of how little flux is needed/wanted for reballing to be successful. I cannot thank you enough. I don't think that I will make any serious money doing this but, I want to make things work that currently don't. Thank you for making these videos and sharing the information that you have. 8 years ago there was nothing to go on, just flew by the seat of me pants. Cheers from Florida!
Many thanks mate and best of luck with getting back into reballing.
@@AndrewPaul are you familiar with the ACHII IR6500?? im having ALOT of trouble making a profile to remove a ps4 fat apu
@@realfamvigilante2829 Hi, not used an IR6500 but did own an IR-Pro-SC for a year or so. Hated it - never really got to grips with it - the thing was so inconsistent between runs it was nigh on impossible to nail a profile down on it. Changed it for the RE-8500 and the differences were instantly noticeable for the better. Predictable temperature ramps, even heat and most importantly it was incredibly consistent.
I popcorned ny first Ps3 GPU, should of watched this first. was very anxious to get started, now, I will slow the hell down, and work the profile out. Dont have a very expensive Jovy like yours, but its just a hobby for me. enjoy your vids very much.Very informative. Thanks
+George Momich Many thanks mate and good luck!
+Andrew Paul Thanks Andrew, just waitin for some more vids. Best on the tube bye the way. Keep it up! If you ever get some time, would you do a quick one on
PS3 HDMI and USB circuits. Thanks
So, basically preheat time can last several minutes to get board above ambient room temp, then soak is 1-2 deg/Sec to target temp in the neighborhood of 200-225 degree. Reflow is at the target temp for about 45 seconds to remove package. then Cool reducing temp 1-2 degree a sec down to 100 degrees. times vary depending on boards/packages/ solder types.. correct?
Glad to hear that,I can remember a x box with issues, I heated the board to about 150 degrees,reassembled and low and behold worked,clearly solder don't melt until 217 degrees,so clearly a issue wi the die on the bga.
+Nell Nelly Indeed. :-)
Great video, so only during the reflow period the top heater will start and the preheat and soak periods is done by bottom heater only?
I always share information that I learn because it helps if u don't share information then you should have your internet took away and not get any information. Thank you so much it helps alot and I'm working on a profile. The chip is known for having alot of heat to come off. When I start a profile I always use multiple temp probes because of the different from machines and just temp and people's home. I use in a not called room. My gf turned on ac and it messed everything up.
Many thanks for your comment. Indeed, ambient temperature can wreak havoc with your profile if there is an extreme difference in the temperature from when you developed the profile.
Tank you so much, i was looking for this.
Thank you very much, this is a great starting point!
Thank you for the info. Very helpful.
Thank you.
Thanx Paul for this Video, my Jovy Re 0 8500, arrives today, and was about to ask you regarding your profiles :) i will start build my own,
thanx alot,
only One thing missing now: Fume extractor :)
+Raed “3absiso” Abbasi That's the most important bit of kit for me. You only get one pair of lungs ha ha! :-)
+Andrew Paul True, this is the next step
ok thank u sir. ur videos have helped me alot! ur amazing lol
+thomas clephane Great to hear! Many thanks for your feedback. :-)
Well explained, thanks.
Can you show us how to set up for low temp solder and High temp Solder. Heavy plated large boards.
Advice for replacing a lga type socket thanks
hello Andrew Paul Can you help me with the hot air BGA profile, the upper and lower parts can write the required numbers for the PlayStation 3 and Playstation 4 and with high accuracy I am most likely open dead RSX orAPU is dead
what temp would u recommend for the bottom heater, before the top heater cones into play,not used my achi for years,but I'm sure I used to take it to 180 degrees,it was the dwell times I could never get correct.
It just depends what you're working on and the type of solder you're working with. There's no hard and fast rule.
Thanks,is it true you can reset the leaded bga,only using bottom heat alone.
+Nell Nelly Never tried it but wouldn't have thought so with any great success - you'd have to subject the bottom side of the board to some very high temps for a prolonged period to attempt it I should think. Definitely utilise a top heater.
I'm led to believe the bottom heater should produce about 80% of the desired heat,would this be about right.
The bottom heater should do the bulk of the heavy work, yes - 70/30 probably the fair estimate. You don't want to subject the BGA directly to high temperatures with top heaters as popcorning is then a real possibility.
Have you had any returns on the ps4 reballs that uve done,I fell out with reballing some years ago,major come backs,I believe the bga's are actually at fault,rather than a solder ball issue.
+Nell Nelly None - the one machine that came back turned out to be a PSU issue and not a re-occurance of the BGA soldering fault. Normally I'd agree (certainly in the case of 3-5 year old laptop flipchips) that the chips themselves are the issue, but I do not believe this to be the case with the PS4 - applying pressure above the APU in most BLOD cases I've seen will bring the machine to life but will fail again when this pressure is released. I've also witnessed missing balls and dry joints under the APU BGAs. It's a manufacturing defect on these machines for sure in my opinion.
Usualy for how long do you preheat a ps4 board? We sit at stable 25c here with around 35% humidity.
Usually a couple of minutes.
So would that, 25c and up in a couple of minutes, work the same for a PS 3 Board?
Can you tell me what temp must i use on any rework machine for xbox one or ps4 or x360 etc.. what temp max for reflow ?
its said on the videos u just gorra wach it .... 230 at maximum 245