Did this repair on my 98 V70 T5 two weeks ago and I gotta say that Ben is a magician for being able to get those mounts out so easily. For the front I had to remove both the fan shroud and the motor mount bracket. For the rear I had to remove the motor mount bracket and the heat shield. If you are going to attempt this repair, I would bank on needing to remove more than Ben did to get the job done. Ben I really appreciate you making these videos. A bit of feedback for you is that on this particular repair it would have been good to see the fan shroud removed and the motor mount brackets as well. Just of those of us who are not able to get them out without going through this step. Perhaps in the future as you guys make more videos (which I hope you do because it encourages me to buy parts from FCP) you will include extra steps to cover scenarios when someone might run into problems.
+Charles Kennedy absolutely! These videos are great. But, for example, to think you're going to replace rear shocks as easily as he does, or be able to remove the top nuts off an OEM, 20 yr old strut using hand tools is unrealistic! I wish we saw more videos of Baby Boy Ben getting frustrated, breaking a nut or tool, and finding a way to get the job done, Backyard Mechanic style! What I'm looking for in this video is the lowering of the oil pan... Being that if you leave it up too long, or push it up too much, you'll crack your oil pan gasket...
That's good advice, I'm sure getting the cooling fan out of there would have made a ton more room. We struggled for about 5 minutes to get it out, but it was anticlimactic, so we left the footage out. We definitely didn't fight with it for an hour.
Just did this job today. Not for the faint of heart... If you're doing this on a 98 S70 N/A: - You must, must have flex-head sockets. (Gearwrench has a great set of 3/8 flex head metric sockets for $50.) U-joints and wobbles won't be enough. - You must have at least 20" of extensions - Don't be afraid of lifting the engine. Use two jacks to keep the engine and transmission as level as possible. - You won't be pulling the front mount from the top. Instead, undo the screws holding one of the ground wires and pull the mount out from the bottom right of the car. (I broke a ground wire and will have to fix it before I can drive the car again!) - Getting the new mounts in will be hard. Do like Scotty Kilmer and curse and scream and shove them in there. I really wish you'd see Baby Boy Ben really, really, really shove those mounts in there... You will not get your mounts in "easily." But they will go in. Thanks FCP, as always you guys really inspire! Good luck!
Thanks for the extra advice here I just went out to the car to pre-plan and PB Blast and I've got to say my '99 S70 GLT has way more stuff in the way than this 850 Turbo including some kind of shield over the rear hydraulic. Everything else is the same.
Thx for your Comment. Helps me a lot. But still can't access the rear top nut. Does any German user have a translation for "flex-head socket" or "swivel socket". I just got "Kugelgelenk".
I just finished doing the front mount and have some comments. I was doing just the front because I could see it while the rear is well hidden. First: you don’t need swivel sockets. A swivel which will hold your shallow sockets works fine. Everything was going fine until I tried to remove the top nut. It was fused to the shaft of the engine mount. I had soaked it with PB Blaster the night before but the nut was being rounded by the socket. Irwin, the bit maker, makes a set of sockets for stripped nuts. I was able to tap one onto the nut and with my swivel use my wrench to attach to the Irwin bit. After a lot of pushing there was a satisfying clunk and it was loose. Second: remove the mount from the bottom. I unhooked the blue ground wire and could slide the old mount past the lower radiator hose and out. The new mount went in the same way. Third: if you’re planning to do one mount you have to unbolt both to raise the engine. I had trouble getting the new mount in place and thought maybe the engine was being held down by the rear mount. Looking back I saw a fluid dripping and I had ruptured the rear mount. It needs to be replaced but this made it necessary to replace now. Unbolting the bottom of the rear mount the engine lifted enough for the new mount to slide into place. This was not that awful of a job once I figured out these thing.
Glad you were able to finish the job Tim regardless of what sounds like a few hiccups! Those Irwin extractor sockets have saved us numerous times, especially here in New England the salt and rust can make removing bolts almost impossible.
Thanks for your tutorial. I juist did the lower front and rear mounting on my 95 wagon 20V. I used Ruville parts, cost me under 90€ for both here in germany. The tricky part is to insert the new rear mounting, you have to raise the oil pan and the gearbox. For removal and insert of the front i have to remove the blue current cable to the starter (easy job). The riding is finde and it feels like the engine gets the power more directly to the street. Best regards from northern Germany.
The 2nd was just mentioning the nut is 15mm, I was struggling for a bit with a 14mm before Google'ing the nut size. I had watched the video several times pre procedure, I ordered the MM kit from you guys, but not until watching it with an eye for detail, and midway doing them, did I notice that it's a different socket from the 14mm you use on the bolts to the 15mm you use on the nuts. Sorry, I was a bit stressed last night to say the least and not in "constructive criticism" mode.
The video was a big help on this job. A couple of suggestions: I found there was no way to get the engine clear of the rear mount without detaching upper torque rod bushing, which video did not mention. Also, please stop calling nuts "bolts."
You're right, we didn't mention it, we thought seeing it at 2:28 would be enough, but I'm sorry it wasn't. I've added a note to our description mentioning the tool. You said there were "two key factors" we missed, what was the other one?
What a nightmare this job is. I don't have the correct flexible joints. I've managed to get the front mount out. The top bolt was removed via a ratchet and me Moving a decent amount of I/c pipework. As for the back. I'm struggling
We filmed a radiator replacement, reservoir (recovery tank) replacement and thermostat replacement all in this past two weeks. Sit tight, they'll be up shortly!
Also, no idea how much footage was edited out between you starting to take the front mount out and actually getting it out, but I dicked with mine for more than an hour and no way was it coming out like in the vid. I highly recommend taking out the cooling fan, there was no obstructions getting the mount out then. Also mount nut access is way better.
Oh, and for the rear Mount: It is much easier doing it when you remove the bracket and shield that connects the mount to the block/transmission. Might be different on some models, on mine it did the trick (94, Euro spec 2.5 10V NA)
I can't honestly recall exactly what is was with this car, but generally in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle you may hear rattling or thumping noises. In a front-wheel-drive vehicle, it's possible you could also have trouble shifting or accelerating. Hope that helps!
It can certainly cause strange vibrations, I'm not sure it would be much different when you were warm. Unless you live in a cold environment the viscosity of the fluid inside the mounts really shouldn't change much as the car warms up.
Great vid all in all tho, thanks. With annotating nut size and tool need it'll be perfect. FYI, this is the one I used: Aw, I can't post a link, but if you search 15mm flex socket at Sears dot com, that's what I used. Or "43206" is the part number. Now, off to find the rear nut, it fell off somewhere......
Where do you get those variable angle sockets? I have a 19T on my S70 and it was nearly impossible to get the top nut off on the rear engine mount. drove me crazzzyyyy...
Google 'craftsman swivel sockets' and you'll find them individually or by set. The single 3/8" drive 15mm Craftsman swivel socket is Item# 00915795000 | Model# 15795. Harbor Freight has whole sets in 3/8" drive (P/N 67908) and 1/2" drive (P/N 67911).
If anyone tries this. Just remove the cooling fan. It's almost impossible getting the front mount out of there without doing this. And its only a couple of screws more and saves a TON of time and effort. (at least on the NA European version pre '95)
I got what seems to be leak from front lower engine mount, engine is B5244T3 in V70 II 2001. Yesterday I found lots of liquid under the engine, firstly I thought that it is oil but it was watery brown stuff. Are those mounting pads hydraulic?
i like this video... i am looking to change my motor mount as well and this is very useful ... only tool i am missing is the u joint socket u used to remove upper bolt on radiator side mount...what size is that?
hi ben thanks for the video I'm going to do it mine soon just waiting for parts. my question is what is the problem of my volvo 850 97 turbo vibration like humming sound at stop while on gear and if I shift it to neutral it's gone, I'm afraid it's my transmission... thanks so much for help
Hi Ben! I will do the same job on our XC70 D5 year 2005 soon, in the Haynes book it says that one should not jack up the engine more than 30mm or in inches perhaps 1.5 inches otherwise you may damage the inner left cv joint, any comments?
Some hydraulic mounts will release fluid when worn while a solid rubber mount will sag over time or give vibration. If a mount is extremely worn you will feel the engine/transmission shift on acceleration/deceleration. You can usually check by lifting the engine/transmission with pry bar while visually inspecting the mount for play.
You'll feel it when it gets old. When you start the car, when you hit small harsh bumps in the road, general vibrations, acceleration, etc.. The ones on these Volvos are good for about 15 years. It's not a necessary replacement, but it's sure nice to have it ride like new again.
hey, if I am exchang only front engine mount, I don't have to loosen up the rear mount? Also do you have torque values for these bolts and nuts? Thanks
How can you tell whether your engine mount is bad or it is the struts? I watched your other video on strut replacement and i'm hoping it's the struts as that looks way easier! Do you think there is any other way to reach that front mount bolt without those extenders?
A quick test for your struts is to bounce the car. If it's rather bouncy then you may need struts. You can also check them for obvious leaking. To check your engine mounts you can simply use a prybar to test for play.
For the love of god, definitely remove the cooling fans/shroud to get to the front one. It's literally two bolts and it slide up and out of the way giving you tons of room. And it looks like the rear definitely needs a 15mm swivel socket as mentioned before in the comments.
Thanks for the reply. You can simply visit FCPEURO.COM for a list of whats available for your vehicle or if you having trouble identifying them, you can send a product request at products@FCPEURO.COM
Would have been nice to mention mount nuts are 15mm and you need a swivel socket to get them. Regular socket and swivel won't grab the nut as I've been trying for the last hour, and any lucky knew to quit, otherwise would have stripped front nut. Two key factors here that totally should have been mentioned with all the other fricken commentary.
Ben, at 0:16, did you really say, "fork-u-millimeter"? I know you didn't; but after 4-5 times, my ears aren't convinced otherwise. Its kind of like, how at 02:26, you wised up & started using universal sockets. And for everyone else's info., you can find them at Sears, Harbor Freight, AutoZone, etc.
Arrrgh! I've replaced all the mounts except the lower rear driver side mount. I can't jack up the motor high enough without lifting the car off the jack stands. What's the secret here? Even if I can pry this mount out, the new Corteco mount is taller. I would need to lift the motor up another inch.
The one that is on the power steering rack and in front of the driver side firewall. The old mount is fluid filled and leaking. It will be replaced with a Corteco mount.
I'm basically stuck at 5:20 into Ben McNally's motor mount video. After reviewing his video, I have not try using a pry bar to get the old mount out. That might work. To get the new one in, I might compress the new mount with a C or bar clamp and tie wrap it to keep it compressed. Then remove the clamp and install it. Once installed, snip the tie wrap and complete. If there is a better way, let me know.
Static Matic You really shouldn't have to compress it, we're happy to give you some more technical advice if you need it, you can email our Volvo tech Jason at jasonv@fcpeuro.com and he'd be happy to help.
Job done! The old mount was removed with a pry bar. The new mount is too tall and I didn't have enough space to pry it into place so I followed steps from this, www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21457&mobile=off , and removed the aluminum motor mount bracket and steel cover.
@@fcpeuro I lowered my subframe a couple of cm to make it easier. And strapped the engine from above to keep it in place. But I have the old front mount out now. Will do the rear another day.
You'll want to contact our Volvo tech Jason at jasonv@fcpeuro.com, he should be able to give you some more involved assistance on this one. Hope that helps.
Did this repair on my 98 V70 T5 two weeks ago and I gotta say that Ben is a magician for being able to get those mounts out so easily. For the front I had to remove both the fan shroud and the motor mount bracket. For the rear I had to remove the motor mount bracket and the heat shield. If you are going to attempt this repair, I would bank on needing to remove more than Ben did to get the job done.
Ben I really appreciate you making these videos. A bit of feedback for you is that on this particular repair it would have been good to see the fan shroud removed and the motor mount brackets as well. Just of those of us who are not able to get them out without going through this step. Perhaps in the future as you guys make more videos (which I hope you do because it encourages me to buy parts from FCP) you will include extra steps to cover scenarios when someone might run into problems.
+Charles Kennedy absolutely! These videos are great. But, for example, to think you're going to replace rear shocks as easily as he does, or be able to remove the top nuts off an OEM, 20 yr old strut using hand tools is unrealistic! I wish we saw more videos of Baby Boy Ben getting frustrated, breaking a nut or tool, and finding a way to get the job done, Backyard Mechanic style! What I'm looking for in this video is the lowering of the oil pan... Being that if you leave it up too long, or push it up too much, you'll crack your oil pan gasket...
That's good advice, I'm sure getting the cooling fan out of there would have made a ton more room. We struggled for about 5 minutes to get it out, but it was anticlimactic, so we left the footage out. We definitely didn't fight with it for an hour.
Just did this job today. Not for the faint of heart...
If you're doing this on a 98 S70 N/A:
- You must, must have flex-head sockets. (Gearwrench has a great set of 3/8 flex head metric sockets for $50.) U-joints and wobbles won't be enough.
- You must have at least 20" of extensions
- Don't be afraid of lifting the engine. Use two jacks to keep the engine and transmission as level as possible.
- You won't be pulling the front mount from the top. Instead, undo the screws holding one of the ground wires and pull the mount out from the bottom right of the car. (I broke a ground wire and will have to fix it before I can drive the car again!)
- Getting the new mounts in will be hard. Do like Scotty Kilmer and curse and scream and shove them in there.
I really wish you'd see Baby Boy Ben really, really, really shove those mounts in there... You will not get your mounts in "easily." But they will go in. Thanks FCP, as always you guys really inspire!
Good luck!
Thanks for the extra advice here I just went out to the car to pre-plan and PB Blast and I've got to say my '99 S70 GLT has way more stuff in the way than this 850 Turbo including some kind of shield over the rear hydraulic. Everything else is the same.
Thx for your Comment. Helps me a lot. But still can't access the rear top nut. Does any German user have a translation for "flex-head socket" or "swivel socket". I just got "Kugelgelenk".
I just finished doing the front mount and have some comments. I was doing just the front because I could see it while the rear is well hidden. First: you don’t need swivel sockets. A swivel which will hold your shallow sockets works fine. Everything was going fine until I tried to remove the top nut. It was fused to the shaft of the engine mount. I had soaked it with PB Blaster the night before but the nut was being rounded by the socket. Irwin, the bit maker, makes a set of sockets for stripped nuts. I was able to tap one onto the nut and with my swivel use my wrench to attach to the Irwin bit. After a lot of pushing there was a satisfying clunk and it was loose. Second: remove the mount from the bottom. I unhooked the blue ground wire and could slide the old mount past the lower radiator hose and out. The new mount went in the same way. Third: if you’re planning to do one mount you have to unbolt both to raise the engine. I had trouble getting the new mount in place and thought maybe the engine was being held down by the rear mount. Looking back I saw a fluid dripping and I had ruptured the rear mount. It needs to be replaced but this made it necessary to replace now. Unbolting the bottom of the rear mount the engine lifted enough for the new mount to slide into place. This was not that awful of a job once I figured out these thing.
Glad you were able to finish the job Tim regardless of what sounds like a few hiccups! Those Irwin extractor sockets have saved us numerous times, especially here in New England the salt and rust can make removing bolts almost impossible.
Thanks for your tutorial. I juist did the lower front and rear mounting on my 95 wagon 20V. I used Ruville parts, cost me under 90€ for both here in germany.
The tricky part is to insert the new rear mounting, you have to raise the oil pan and the gearbox.
For removal and insert of the front i have to remove the blue current cable to the starter (easy job).
The riding is finde and it feels like the engine gets the power more directly to the street.
Best regards from northern Germany.
The 2nd was just mentioning the nut is 15mm, I was struggling for a bit with a 14mm before Google'ing the nut size.
I had watched the video several times pre procedure, I ordered the MM kit from you guys, but not until watching it with an eye for detail, and midway doing them, did I notice that it's a different socket from the 14mm you use on the bolts to the 15mm you use on the nuts. Sorry, I was a bit stressed last night to say the least and not in "constructive criticism" mode.
The video was a big help on this job. A couple of suggestions: I found there was no way to get the engine clear of the rear mount without detaching upper torque rod bushing, which video did not mention. Also, please stop calling nuts "bolts."
You're right, we didn't mention it, we thought seeing it at 2:28 would be enough, but I'm sorry it wasn't. I've added a note to our description mentioning the tool. You said there were "two key factors" we missed, what was the other one?
What a nightmare this job is. I don't have the correct flexible joints. I've managed to get the front mount out. The top bolt was removed via a ratchet and me Moving a decent amount of I/c pipework. As for the back. I'm struggling
We filmed a radiator replacement, reservoir (recovery tank) replacement and thermostat replacement all in this past two weeks. Sit tight, they'll be up shortly!
Also, no idea how much footage was edited out between you starting to take the front mount out and actually getting it out, but I dicked with mine for more than an hour and no way was it coming out like in the vid. I highly recommend taking out the cooling fan, there was no obstructions getting the mount out then. Also mount nut access is way better.
Thanks so much for making this awesome video! It helped tremendously with the replacement of the motor mounts on our S70.
Oh, and for the rear Mount:
It is much easier doing it when you remove the bracket and shield that connects the mount to the block/transmission. Might be different on some models, on mine it did the trick (94, Euro spec 2.5 10V NA)
I can't honestly recall exactly what is was with this car, but generally in a rear-wheel-drive vehicle you may hear rattling or thumping noises. In a front-wheel-drive vehicle, it's possible you could also have trouble shifting or accelerating. Hope that helps!
Got a few more coming this week too.
It can certainly cause strange vibrations, I'm not sure it would be much different when you were warm. Unless you live in a cold environment the viscosity of the fluid inside the mounts really shouldn't change much as the car warms up.
After lifting the engine, double check your O2 sensor is firmly connected. My connection popped out.
you just saved my car. thx
Great vid all in all tho, thanks. With annotating nut size and tool need it'll be perfect.
FYI, this is the one I used:
Aw, I can't post a link, but if you search 15mm flex socket at Sears dot com, that's what I used. Or "43206" is the part number.
Now, off to find the rear nut, it fell off somewhere......
Not particularly harshly, this was more to show the repair.
Where do you get those variable angle sockets? I have a 19T on my S70 and it was nearly impossible to get the top nut off on the rear engine mount. drove me crazzzyyyy...
Thanks for the video. Do you guys have a video showing how to replace a coolant recovery tank?
You really need to make a video for the P2 platform, some differences in dealing with the rear mount (which is a PITA).
I noticed that at 6:25 the image cuts and you use a different socket and a different adapter?
Google 'craftsman swivel sockets' and you'll find them individually or by set. The single 3/8" drive 15mm Craftsman swivel socket is Item# 00915795000 | Model# 15795. Harbor Freight has whole sets in 3/8" drive (P/N 67908) and 1/2" drive (P/N 67911).
Thanks for this.
My engine mounts are...way overdue.
Now I can do it myself thanks to this video and I will save a A## load of money :-)
cheers!
If anyone tries this. Just remove the cooling fan. It's almost impossible getting the front mount out of there without doing this. And its only a couple of screws more and saves a TON of time and effort. (at least on the NA European version pre '95)
If these are completely blown out will it cause a jolt when the transmission shifts?
ok thanks, do you think it can cause unusual vibration when in complete stop when the engine is worm ?
I got what seems to be leak from front lower engine mount, engine is B5244T3 in V70 II 2001.
Yesterday I found lots of liquid under the engine, firstly I thought that it is oil but it was watery brown stuff.
Are those mounting pads hydraulic?
Are the front and read mounts the same item?
i like this video... i am looking to change my motor mount as well and this is very useful ... only tool i am missing is the u joint socket u used to remove upper bolt on radiator side mount...what size is that?
Hi Gordon, It's either a 13 or 14mm. Unfortunately I don't recall exactly, my apologies.
cool thnx will buy them both... always good to have
Здравствуйте, посоветуйте какой лучше фирмы из аналогов поставить подушки?! У меня хс70 2,5т 2006
hi ben thanks for the video I'm going to do it mine soon just waiting for parts. my question is what is the problem of my volvo 850 97 turbo vibration like humming sound at stop while on gear and if I shift it to neutral it's gone, I'm afraid it's my transmission... thanks so much for help
Hello Kevin, it's hard to say exactly what it could be. Please take a video of the noise and send it to products@fcpeuro.com
FCP Euro , thanks for reply, I will record that noise and will be sent to you
You're welcome!
5 or 6 cylinder?
Hi Ben! I will do the same job on our XC70 D5 year 2005 soon, in the Haynes book it says that one should not jack up the engine more than 30mm or in inches perhaps 1.5 inches otherwise you may damage the inner left cv joint, any comments?
We would recommend to follow the parameter specified by your service manual.
What was the problem with the car initialy ?
Snap on, mac, or matco sells them. I never seen them in a store like craftsman
Great videos thank you for your efforts.
When do you need to replace a mount (i.e. certain time/mileage interval, vibration issues, other indicator(s) )?
Some hydraulic mounts will release fluid when worn while a solid rubber mount will sag over time or give vibration. If a mount is extremely worn you will feel the engine/transmission shift on acceleration/deceleration. You can usually check by lifting the engine/transmission with pry bar while visually inspecting the mount for play.
You'll feel it when it gets old. When you start the car, when you hit small harsh bumps in the road, general vibrations, acceleration, etc.. The ones on these Volvos are good for about 15 years. It's not a necessary replacement, but it's sure nice to have it ride like new again.
Where do you get that double hinged swivel socket at 7:32?
I'd like to buy one.
hey, if I am exchang only front engine mount, I don't have to loosen up the rear mount? Also do you have torque values for these bolts and nuts? Thanks
Hello, please feel free to email us at products@fcpeuro.com. We'll be happy to provide you with that information.
How can you tell whether your engine mount is bad or it is the struts? I watched your other video on strut replacement and i'm hoping it's the struts as that looks way easier!
Do you think there is any other way to reach that front mount bolt without those extenders?
A quick test for your struts is to bounce the car. If it's rather bouncy then you may need struts. You can also check them for obvious leaking. To check your engine mounts you can simply use a prybar to test for play.
Where's a good place to get the 15 mm swivel socket?
six cylinder T6. I've seen a few videos for other cars but none specific to the S80 that covers the SKU #30778951 or 30778951OE
what brands do you recommend for all engine and trans mounts?
Corteco, Meyle, Rein.
how similar is this to a first generation S80?
For the love of god, definitely remove the cooling fans/shroud to get to the front one. It's literally two bolts and it slide up and out of the way giving you tons of room. And it looks like the rear definitely needs a 15mm swivel socket as mentioned before in the comments.
which/how many mounts will I need to buy for an 86' Volvo 740 gle
Thanks for the reply. You can simply visit FCPEURO.COM for a list of whats available for your vehicle or if you having trouble identifying them, you can send a product request at products@FCPEURO.COM
I want to replace my 2004 volve s80 lower mount, are they same?
Hi Steve, the mounts on your S80 are very similar.
+Jason Van Gorden , thank you.
Love the videos.
Would have been nice to mention mount nuts are 15mm and you need a swivel socket to get them. Regular socket and swivel won't grab the nut as I've been trying for the last hour, and any lucky knew to quit, otherwise would have stripped front nut.
Two key factors here that totally should have been mentioned with all the other fricken commentary.
Anyone knows torque values for the mounts? Thanks
ok, I found in Chilton manual 37ft-lb. Pretty low....
Ben, at 0:16, did you really say, "fork-u-millimeter"? I know you didn't; but after 4-5 times, my ears aren't convinced otherwise. Its kind of like, how at 02:26, you wised up & started using universal sockets. And for everyone else's info., you can find them at Sears, Harbor Freight, AutoZone, etc.
i need to do this on mine, the mounts are so bad that it feels like the motor is welded to the car's frame loll
Arrrgh! I've replaced all the mounts except the lower rear driver side mount. I can't jack up the motor high enough without lifting the car off the jack stands. What's the secret here? Even if I can pry this mount out, the new Corteco mount is taller. I would need to lift the motor up another inch.
Which one are you talking about? The one on the transmission side or the one bolted to the power steering rack?
The one that is on the power steering rack and in front of the driver side firewall. The old mount is fluid filled and leaking. It will be replaced with a Corteco mount.
I'm basically stuck at 5:20 into Ben McNally's motor mount video. After reviewing his video, I have not try using a pry bar to get the old mount out. That might work. To get the new one in, I might compress the new mount with a C or bar clamp and tie wrap it to keep it compressed. Then remove the clamp and install it. Once installed, snip the tie wrap and complete. If there is a better way, let me know.
Static Matic You really shouldn't have to compress it, we're happy to give you some more technical advice if you need it, you can email our Volvo tech Jason at jasonv@fcpeuro.com and he'd be happy to help.
Job done! The old mount was removed with a pry bar. The new mount is too tall and I didn't have enough space to pry it into place so I followed steps from this, www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21457&mobile=off , and removed the aluminum motor mount bracket and steel cover.
Nightmare accepted, ordered a 15mm flexible socket. But will put in new solid mounts out of delrin/aluminum.
Let us know how it goes!
@@fcpeuro I lowered my subframe a couple of cm to make it easier. And strapped the engine from above to keep it in place. But I have the old front mount out now. Will do the rear another day.
I have no idea what I just watched. I can’t tell at all where to start unbolting.
What brand of swivel socket are you using at this point: th-cam.com/video/bHFufHp_Qpw/w-d-xo.html
You'll want to contact our Volvo tech Jason at jasonv@fcpeuro.com, he should be able to give you some more involved assistance on this one. Hope that helps.
I've watched many of Ben's videos, but this one was very poorly filmed; and his narration, from beginning to end, was confusing to say the very least.