I'm currently studying for an hydraulic exam, and I couldn't figure out how this 'hydromotor volgens planeetwielprincipe' worked from the 2D drawings in the book. So naturally onto the internets, and within 5 minutes I found a video done by you! This helped me understand it quite a bit better, so thanks (for hopefully helping me pass my exam)
Everyone knows the appropriate thing to do with those old broken parts is move them from the place they've been in for the last two decades, to a new place that you're certain "Will be simple to find next time". Then, of course, you can't find it for another two decades. Keeps things real simple. Thanks - Lumpy
Well, you gotta spend money to make money... so, in that vein... you gotta store junk to remind you to throw junk away. Solid logic. I see this chocolate bar has 50% less fat, so, every one I eat I'm getting thinner and thinner!
Yeah, it's a geroler motor, a gerotor is different, the rollers are what make it a geroler. Eaton uses these fairly widely, I think a common use is in a direct drive system where there is limited space, to avoid a planetary drive set. The geroler makes heaps of torque. My problem is that it seems to have shifted on disassembly and now the sprocket (timing gear) won't go back in place.
Just a thought but...from rebuilding some g-rotor motors before you can flip the rollers 180 degrees and clean up the gear and she will run like a champ for (not as long as a properly rebuilt assembly with a kit ) but for quite a while longer than a work shift. Just my 2 cents. Love the teardown
I'm a TH-cam expert on knife making from having watched so many vijayos on said subject. In spite of the fact that I have neither the tools nor have I ever made a knife I can tell you without a shred of doubt, that all of that beautiful hardened steel would be able to be forged into some amazing swords, knives or teaspoons. Thank you for having the patience to read this post.
Keep some of the garbage by the press. Use it to press out and in parts. Keep the rotor, rollers, shafts, and housing to support parts you are pressing. Save the bolts!
hey I am a few years deep into memory reading history, its funny how often you mention mnemonics and the pile of random stuff you keep as real world funny bits to act as living RAM. wish you would get back to hydraulics! cheers
Would it be possible to file off the high rust spots on the hardened rollers and then press them back into the case with the bad spots facing towards the case, away from the gerotor? Then polish up the gerotor and reassemble?
Are those pins supposed to rotate in the shell, or are they supposed to be stuck in place? 'Cause if the latter, wouldn't you just put them back in with the rust toward the shell where it's out of the way?
It fits to precise. These things work on very high pressure. A little loose fit would cause a major leak, and would result in loss of power. So, some rust jams the whole thing. Some nice parts though. Would keep them in my junk box.
Good stuff, I have had some success with old diabolics by running them with copper "Never Seize" mixed in the oil. There is also some Mormon tabernacle company that makes a nice smooth cocktail of colloidal lead additive that brings new life to greasy old dust collectors like that.
+Jon Massey They can be annealed and turned, then re-hardened. Or forged. If it's 52100 or similar carbon steel, they are very useful for many projects.
In the start of your tutorial you made two wrong conclusions,first a hydraulic has so little clearance,it will hardly turn over. Second that little drive shaft never comes out of the rotor becouse the rotor makes an excentric motion. Keep them films coming!
It almost looks like the pins could be rotated and then installed to present a good surface to the rotor. The rotor could be polished up. I'd be worried about how the splines fit up though. Also the condition and clearance of the rotor faces. Looked like there was a lot of metal particles floating around.
+Shawn Bottom I believe the surface was pitted. That'll hold lubricant and create cavitation, which creates faster surface erosion, releasing more particles into the lube, creating schmutz, and schmutz kills the hydraulics.
you should make some slugs out of those rods and send them to taofladermouse, or save up a bunch of crap over time then send them so its somewhat worth the cost of sending them
I've been in PURGE MODE. Too bad you're in Canada, and post is so darn expensive. Finally noticed my old 18-36V supply (DOA) and HP 5334 9 digit meter (DOA) need to be tossed. I've got a HP 5334B which is great little tool to see if that darn Ethernet XTAL is really at 25.000 000 Mhz. Lots of cool stuff, HP Plotter (Works -- but after 20 years old not sure where the dos driver went)just decided it was time to clean up. My grandmother used to tell say "not sure if you want to keep it... toss it into an unmarked box, write a date on it, if you find the box more than a year later and don't remember what is in, don't look in the box - donate it to charity. Smart women as I still have unopened boxes from moving to Texas in '93. Time to toss.
Just looked it is a 5328A (Hadn't paid attention to it since the 5334B arrived). Even has the DVM option. Not a clue what it cost to ship to Canada Land...
OUCH! For not working counter, not worth it. I've had it in the shop for 10+ years, so finally had to admit I have too much other things. I also found a Z80 training kit.... from 1986(!).
Do you keep all of those parts from the machines don't work anymore, I was wondering if you could or would mill those metal cylinders into something else. Or are they to hardened to mill?
Those rotating rods that was corroded, where they supposed to spin? If so, how come the became corroded in just one side/pretty straight line? If the are not supposed to rotate, couldn't you just put them back half a turn?
Great video and great pile of junk. I guess that is why you got it for free eh. Not a total waste though. You can use it to tie up your sled dogs at night. Winter is coming you know. Thanks for sharing.
I'm currently studying for an hydraulic exam, and I couldn't figure out how this 'hydromotor volgens planeetwielprincipe' worked from the 2D drawings in the book. So naturally onto the internets, and within 5 minutes I found a video done by you! This helped me understand it quite a bit better, so thanks (for hopefully helping me pass my exam)
Going full fan-boy here, but I think you're one of the smartest and funniest dudes on youtube. Thanks for hours of infotainment.
:
Everyone knows the appropriate thing to do with those old broken parts is move them from the place they've been in for the last two decades, to a new place that you're certain "Will be simple to find next time". Then, of course, you can't find it for another two decades. Keeps things real simple. Thanks - Lumpy
I couldn't stop myself from laughing, in public, "this'll remind me to throw shit out" as you're putting broken "shit" on the shelf!
Well, you gotta spend money to make money... so, in that vein... you gotta store junk to remind you to throw junk away. Solid logic. I see this chocolate bar has 50% less fat, so, every one I eat I'm getting thinner and thinner!
The precision of those things is amazing.
I like how you keep a chunk of garbage to remind you to throw out your garbage.
Garrr! She wont chooch no more! Thanks so much for the tutorial. All the best,
Paul
Well the scrap man should be happy. I have also been trying to organize and declutter my life. What I really need is a bigger garage!
Now ain't that the truth! If we all could we'd have 500 sqft houses and 50000sqft shops!
Ain't that the truth
That is true!
Digi-Key! They're only a couple hours north of me. Good to see a Minnesota business rep'd on the channel.
4 years?? Hell, it’s just coming into prime vintage as shelf decor!
Edit: i wrote that line before you put ‘er on the shelf! Rofl!
LMAO at the end of this video, "Let me keep this piece of useless shit to remind me to throw out shit." You're the best.
Awesome channel. Keep up the interesting videos and humorous commentary.
Yeah, it's a geroler motor, a gerotor is different, the rollers are what make it a geroler.
Eaton uses these fairly widely, I think a common use is in a direct drive system where there is limited space, to avoid a planetary drive set.
The geroler makes heaps of torque.
My problem is that it seems to have shifted on disassembly and now the sprocket (timing gear) won't go back in place.
You could have just turned the rods. Also, why no attempt with heat to free the part?
Just a thought but...from rebuilding some g-rotor motors before you can flip the rollers 180 degrees and clean up the gear and she will run like a champ for (not as long as a properly rebuilt assembly with a kit ) but for quite a while longer than a work shift. Just my 2 cents. Love the teardown
I'm a TH-cam expert on knife making from having watched so many vijayos on said subject. In spite of the fact that I have neither the tools nor have I ever made a knife I can tell you without a shred of doubt, that all of that beautiful hardened steel would be able to be forged into some amazing swords, knives or teaspoons. Thank you for having the patience to read this post.
Saw few of those Dynaset pumps on the first scene. Teardown, please.
Get yourself a tripod
I really like your videos btw
Keep some of the garbage by the press. Use it to press out and in parts. Keep the rotor, rollers, shafts, and housing to support parts you are pressing. Save the bolts!
I miss the old AvE videos. They have a certain charm. They were good without having to try.
hey I am a few years deep into memory reading history, its funny how often you mention mnemonics and the pile of random stuff you keep as real world funny bits to act as living RAM. wish you would get back to hydraulics! cheers
Would it be possible to file off the high rust spots on the hardened rollers and then press them back into the case with the bad spots facing towards the case, away from the gerotor? Then polish up the gerotor and reassemble?
Are those pins supposed to rotate in the shell, or are they supposed to be stuck in place? 'Cause if the latter, wouldn't you just put them back in with the rust toward the shell where it's out of the way?
It fits to precise. These things work on very high pressure.
A little loose fit would cause a major leak, and would result in loss of power. So, some rust jams the whole thing.
Some nice parts though. Would keep them in my junk box.
Yes the pins rotate in the shell.
Shes still good for material though. That's good quality steel.
Good stuff, I have had some success with old diabolics by running them with copper "Never Seize" mixed in the oil. There is also some Mormon tabernacle company that makes a nice smooth cocktail of colloidal lead additive that brings new life to greasy old dust collectors like that.
Very interesting mechanism. Are those hardened pins worth keeping for other projects or are they just junk?
+Jon Massey I'd think they'd work for one of his mills.
+Jon Massey They can be annealed and turned, then re-hardened. Or forged. If it's 52100 or similar carbon steel, they are very useful for many projects.
Ahh, packratitis....I know it well. Need to purge the available storage areas every so often. ;-)
In the start of your tutorial you made two wrong conclusions,first a hydraulic has so little
clearance,it will hardly turn over.
Second that little drive shaft never comes out of the rotor becouse the rotor makes an excentric motion.
Keep them films coming!
haha hilarious! decent video man, informative and funny, im subscribing
some nice bits of hardened steel stock from them rotors. be easy to make a rolling file guide or something else out of em
Sweet video.
What it is you do for a living? Some kind of millwright ? You definitely have some engineering experience of some kind .
Turn em round, use them again.
Why rested ? And what is the causes for its failur ?
It almost looks like the pins could be rotated and then installed to present a good surface to the rotor. The rotor could be polished up. I'd be worried about how the splines fit up though. Also the condition and clearance of the rotor faces. Looked like there was a lot of metal particles floating around.
+Shawn Bottom I believe the surface was pitted. That'll hold lubricant and create cavitation, which creates faster surface erosion, releasing more particles into the lube, creating schmutz, and schmutz kills the hydraulics.
Tis a fine line between projects and hoarding....
I love that for 8+ years AvE has been enlightening us bumblefucks and I am forever grateful
Couldn't you turn the rollers on a lathe, taking off just a tiny bit of material to get it working again?
Why not file the rust down a bit and install the pins backward at 180 degrees?
Do we have any idea what type of steel is used for the rollers? 52100?
Can this kind of hydraulic motor be used as a hydraulic pump?
you should make some slugs out of those rods and send them to taofladermouse, or save up a bunch of crap over time then send them so its somewhat worth the cost of sending them
+Tim Dulan Screw that I want them.
Good info....wtf i use it for yet idk...then i have like 5 other mitors idk wtf to do with either...haha
You should use GM grape scented gear lube to make the pump smell better. Seriously....Thats a thing
I've been in PURGE MODE. Too bad you're in Canada, and post is so darn expensive. Finally noticed my old 18-36V supply (DOA) and HP 5334 9 digit meter (DOA) need to be tossed. I've got a HP 5334B which is great little tool to see if that darn Ethernet XTAL is really at 25.000 000 Mhz. Lots of cool stuff, HP Plotter (Works -- but after 20 years old not sure where the dos driver went)just decided it was time to clean up.
My grandmother used to tell say "not sure if you want to keep it... toss it into an unmarked box, write a date on it, if you find the box more than a year later and don't remember what is in, don't look in the box - donate it to charity. Smart women as I still have unopened boxes from moving to Texas in '93. Time to toss.
Just looked it is a 5328A (Hadn't paid attention to it since the 5334B arrived).
Even has the DVM option.
Not a clue what it cost to ship to Canada Land...
OUCH!
For not working counter, not worth it. I've had it in the shop for 10+ years, so finally had to admit I have too much other things. I also found a Z80 training kit.... from 1986(!).
Love that wall of shame...
Do you keep all of those parts from the machines don't work anymore, I was wondering if you could or would mill those metal cylinders into something else. Or are they to hardened to mill?
Those rotating rods that was corroded, where they supposed to spin? If so, how come the became corroded in just one side/pretty straight line?
If the are not supposed to rotate, couldn't you just put them back half a turn?
you might be able to do something with your audio, i think there is alot of background noise
that's seemed to be crevice corrosion right there leading to pitting...
Great video and great pile of junk. I guess that is why you got it for free eh. Not a total waste though. You can use it to tie up your sled dogs at night. Winter is coming you know. Thanks for sharing.
What does BOLTR mean?
Just a heads up from 2020... no flying cars yet... Yeah it sux... :D
could always try to polish them, then repassify them with nitric acid, or nitric acid/potassium dichromate mixture
Had to watch it twice. Just keep hearing the excavating beeping.
as a pro, you are 100% corect. toss it and make the middle man money
In the garage for four years??? You too eh?
Breaking down same motor right now someone gave me it was a little seized i think it was just sitting up a while
the beds sheet are so different than 4 years ago, much improvemnets, fork my spelling and granmer.
this comment is for thw chooch factor
Only four years before you got around to looking at it, amateur is all I can say!
I want see moter danfoss 125... I need
$2? Lol
Dan Foss drives work just like this motor. cascade to garbage.
Hehe, DeWilt.
hello
wou
Boooooooooooooooooooooooooo boooooooooooooooo
So.... you're a garbage collector........