Looking online I see lawn lime and others that say garden lime. I I just buy any type of pellet lime will i be okay. It's for planting in the woods for hunting
We are at the point where we got our soil test back from the extension office and have recommendations for how much lime to apply. We have mainly flower gardens with pine straw or mulch. Do we need to pull back the mulch and work in the lime or can we sprinkle on top and just water it in?
Yes, lime is a great addition for soils that are too acidic. But it's important to do a soil sample so that you add the correct amount. It's easy to raise the pH, but extremely difficult to lower it.
How much lime do I need to add if my soil ph is 9 - 9.5 in my inside starters and I need them to get to 6.5 .? Can I add small amount to water or sprinkle it over the top of my soil ? Any advice ?
@@bradsuarez2683 well thanks for the helpful advice bud but that was months ago if you see the date and I have since grown cut and cured lol but thanks again
A better answer would be, 'it doesn't actually work that way!' LoL Only if you start breaking it up causing much of the Limestone to pulverize will it begin to affect the soil. Throwing a large solid piece of natural limestone in the yard will do nothing until you crumble it.
Have you watched Elaine Ingham? She basically says you don't need to worry about pH as long as there's life in the soil and that if so, the plant creates the pH it needs around its roots, iirc in the rhizosphere. As to calcium (and other minerals), she says there's always enough calcium in the soil, it's just not in plant available form, but the life in the soil will fetch/transform it as needed for the plant, for example thru the bacteria lifecycle or fungi symbiosis with the plant.
That may apply in cooler climates, but down here our organic matter gets burned up pretty quickly. And so we're constantly having to add organic matter through composting and cover cropping. We've also done significant side by side testing on applying calcium versus not doing it on tomatoes. And the ones without calcium always have blossom end rot whereas adding calcium alleviates the problem drastically.
Yeah, generating enough organic matter thru cover crops is hard or not possible in many regions due to excessive rain and/or heat. I'm starting to use this year cover crops in my backyard and see how it works in my 5b - 6a zone. Cover crops seems simple but it's complicated and requires experience because its effectiveness depends on how well one understands ones climate and what each individual cover crop will do and how well it will fare. They say one should always plant at least like 6 cover crops mixed together to create a cocktail which if properly mixed is a lot more powerful than cover crops out of 1 or 2 plants. I have yet to test it.
I don't trust this cheap little pH, moisture, and light meter I bought from Amazon. I only have two 4x8 ft raised beds and I think I may need calcium but not sure. I do NOT want to tie up nutrients and have a crappy growing year.
How long after can I plant crops after applying
It's better to apply before planting, because lime can take about 30 days to adjust the pH.
Looking online I see lawn lime and others that say garden lime. I I just buy any type of pellet lime will i be okay. It's for planting in the woods for hunting
either will work just fine
How fast acting is this lime?
Lime usually takes about 30 days.
My first time needing to add lime. Should I till first and then spread the lime? It's a spot that's never been gardened. All in Bahia grass.
Hoping you did a soil test first. No need to till
@@gardeningwithhoss I tested with pH strips. It's 4.5 and sand mostly. Really want to plant a garden in a couple of months. Central Florida.
We are at the point where we got our soil test back from the extension office and have recommendations for how much lime to apply. We have mainly flower gardens with pine straw or mulch. Do we need to pull back the mulch and work in the lime or can we sprinkle on top and just water it in?
put on top and water in.
When they say lime is it like the actual lime? 🍋
No, it's different than the fruit.
If anybody has over done it with lime you can till in peat moss it'll lower it fast.
Interesting. Never heard of that. Thanks!
Thanks!
So are you saying the lime pellets raise ph?
Yes, lime is a great addition for soils that are too acidic. But it's important to do a soil sample so that you add the correct amount. It's easy to raise the pH, but extremely difficult to lower it.
How much lime do I need to add if my soil ph is 9 - 9.5 in my inside starters and I need them to get to 6.5 .? Can I add small amount to water or sprinkle it over the top of my soil ? Any advice ?
Here's an article that tells you how much you'll need depending on your soil type: www.bakerlime.com/how-much-lime-apply/
Your soil is 9? That's highly alkaline! You have the opposite problem of having to use lime. You only need lime if your soil is acidic.
@@bradsuarez2683 well thanks for the helpful advice bud but that was months ago if you see the date and I have since grown cut and cured lol but thanks again
@@joshhughes6316 Nice..... Did you end up using the lime?
@@bradsuarez2683 no sir I went with a RO H20 and balanced ph in soil slowly to perfect . Took almost a week but was worth the wait .
So would an entire garden with a limestone ground, but has say a foot and a half of dirt on top, be ok. Or is it too much lime stone?
Not sure. You'd need to do a soil sample to check the pH of the soil. Lime can elevate the soil pH. Want to make sure the pH is not too high.
A better answer would be, 'it doesn't actually work that way!' LoL
Only if you start breaking it up causing much of the Limestone to pulverize will it begin to affect the soil. Throwing a large solid piece of natural limestone in the yard will do nothing until you crumble it.
Have you watched Elaine Ingham? She basically says you don't need to worry about pH as long as there's life in the soil and that if so, the plant creates the pH it needs around its roots, iirc in the rhizosphere. As to calcium (and other minerals), she says there's always enough calcium in the soil, it's just not in plant available form, but the life in the soil will fetch/transform it as needed for the plant, for example thru the bacteria lifecycle or fungi symbiosis with the plant.
That may apply in cooler climates, but down here our organic matter gets burned up pretty quickly. And so we're constantly having to add organic matter through composting and cover cropping. We've also done significant side by side testing on applying calcium versus not doing it on tomatoes. And the ones without calcium always have blossom end rot whereas adding calcium alleviates the problem drastically.
Yeah, generating enough organic matter thru cover crops is hard or not possible in many regions due to excessive rain and/or heat. I'm starting to use this year cover crops in my backyard and see how it works in my 5b - 6a zone. Cover crops seems simple but it's complicated and requires experience because its effectiveness depends on how well one understands ones climate and what each individual cover crop will do and how well it will fare. They say one should always plant at least like 6 cover crops mixed together to create a cocktail which if properly mixed is a lot more powerful than cover crops out of 1 or 2 plants. I have yet to test it.
She recommends adding massive nutrients plowing excavating before starting adding soil life she recommends a destroy start new approach.
I don't trust this cheap little pH, moisture, and light meter I bought from Amazon. I only have two 4x8 ft raised beds and I think I may need calcium but not sure. I do NOT want to tie up nutrients and have a crappy growing year.
It's impossible to put powdered lime out by hand? lmao okay bud
yes
Bla bla