I've been using a combination of elemental sulfur and citric acid for the last two season and have noticed a good change in my soil pH. At the beginning of 2020 when I initially tested my soil at our new house my soil pH was at an 8.3. When I tested at the beginning of this year after using elemental sulfur and citric acid during the 2020 season my soil pH dropped to a 7.8. It was pretty cool to see this change and I have noticed a different in how my lawn has been looking and responding to fertilizer applications. After using elemental sulfur and citric acid this season, I'll be interested to see what my test results show at the beginning of 2022. Thanks for the video.
That's really good for you to get those results. I've read that sulfur may take a while to lower ph while lime can raise the ph of soil very quickly. But, I guess a year can be considered to be "a while".
Great video! Question, i have very high alkaline soil 8.5-9. I have fescue lawn and am trying to lower my PH for this fall. I’ve laid down some gypsum, elemental sulfur, citric acid and was planning on putting down some ammonium sulfate with my grass seed next week. What are your thoughts?
Any suggestions for lowering pH for say blueberries or other acid loving plants? Sulfur and Aluminum Sulfate are two of the most common I see. There are other's you recommend? I know this one is generally aimed around balancing vs grass or a more traditional "neutral" pH crop but would going lower change the recommendation?
I am from Indonesia. The soil here tends to be acidic. Because of chemical fertilizers. Why does the pH of chemical fertilizers tend to be acidic? I am always busy raising the pH with lime soaked in water and then clear water to raise the pH of the soil. I have one more question. When I try to raise the pH of hydroponic fertilizers. Using the water above with a pH of 10, a reaction occurs. Does calcium react with phosphate/magnesium/sulfur?
Nitrogen based fertilizers have and acidifying effect on soils primarily due to nitrification, the conversion of ammonium (NH4+) to nitrate (NO3-). Different nitrogen based fertilizers have varying acidifying effects. You can google "Fertilizer Equivalent Acidity Chart" to find those differences. I'm not certain I understand the second question. Are you trying to adjust the pH of your fertilizer inputs, or of the hydroponic solution? What is the pH of the water that you have available? Are you seeing a reaction in the water? Thanks for watching!
@@SoiLab Yes. I tried to increase the pH of the fertilizer solution. using potassium hydroxide. which was originally 5.5 to 7. but there was a reaction like fog. then I let it sit for a while. there was a white flour-like sediment at the bottom of the bucket.
@@SoiLab then I tried using limestone that I dissolved. I took only the clear water to increase it. there was another reaction. I am worried that the fertilizer I gave will not be absorbed optimally by the plants.
@@ubaygarden What is likely happening is that the hydroxide is reacting with Calcium, Magnesium, and potentially Iron as well and that is what is forming the precipitate (white flour-like sediment). This will certainly reduce the availability of those elements in the short term.
@@SoiLab So to increase the pH of the soil, the best way is to use limestone? But I dissolve it first and take only the clear water. Is that good? Rather than sprinkling lime directly on the soil. Limestone contains calcium carbonate.
Wow may God bless you sir for this great, interesting and super informative work you do. Your experiment is super helpful. I would also like to know how to apply ashes as a supplement for the lime as it is cheaper and more readily available where I'm from(comparison between treated and untreated woodash would also be appreciated). Much love from Nigeria
Helo there . I got clay like soil which is well over 7 on the scale in sum cases is over 8 . Drainage is totally not good . But will the lime work in my case ?
I don't understand the mechanism that would see pH levels drop over time in the acidic lime treatments. Intuitively, I'd expect the opposite result as the lime has more time to react with the soil. Can you offer your thoughts? And how did you apply the lime? Simply sprinkle of top of the soil? If so, your sampling is likely being contaminated when you insert the probe as the lime is right on the surface. Seems to me you'd want to scrape the top of the probe site and only test the subsurface soil.
Soil buffering capacity is the soil’s ability to maintain a relatively stable pH despite adding lime. The same can be seen in the very basic soil where even the high rate of Elemental Sulfur could not change the soil pH. This is why multiple applications are needed and consistent monitoring is required to change a soil's pH. As for contamination, these soils sat for months with consistent watering that could be seen reaching the bottom of the container. We wanted to simulate a garden bed or how your soil will be amended outside.
I've been using a combination of elemental sulfur and citric acid for the last two season and have noticed a good change in my soil pH. At the beginning of 2020 when I initially tested my soil at our new house my soil pH was at an 8.3. When I tested at the beginning of this year after using elemental sulfur and citric acid during the 2020 season my soil pH dropped to a 7.8. It was pretty cool to see this change and I have noticed a different in how my lawn has been looking and responding to fertilizer applications. After using elemental sulfur and citric acid this season, I'll be interested to see what my test results show at the beginning of 2022. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing, It sounds like use in combination has benefits. You will have to share what your 2022 results show!
I live in phoenix and I've been using elemental sulfur to lower the pH to now avail. What rate are you adding the sulfur?
That's really good for you to get those results. I've read that sulfur may take a while to lower ph while lime can raise the ph of soil very quickly. But, I guess a year can be considered to be "a while".
I'm learning alot from this series! thanks guys.
Thanks LCN!
Great video! Question, i have very high alkaline soil 8.5-9. I have fescue lawn and am trying to lower my PH for this fall. I’ve laid down some gypsum, elemental sulfur, citric acid and was planning on putting down some ammonium sulfate with my grass seed next week. What are your thoughts?
I had not thought about citric acid. I have never seen it in a garden department. I'll check that out if it is not too costly.
Well done Matt. 👍🏼
Thanks Pacific Northwest Lawns!
Any suggestions for lowering pH for say blueberries or other acid loving plants? Sulfur and Aluminum Sulfate are two of the most common I see. There are other's you recommend? I know this one is generally aimed around balancing vs grass or a more traditional "neutral" pH crop but would going lower change the recommendation?
Hello! Great experiment. Have you tested how change phosphorous in high pH soil when is going down over the month? Thank you!
I would like to see a video on application of hardwood (eg, oak) ashes on pH and also potash.
I am from Indonesia. The soil here tends to be acidic. Because of chemical fertilizers. Why does the pH of chemical fertilizers tend to be acidic? I am always busy raising the pH with lime soaked in water and then clear water to raise the pH of the soil. I have one more question. When I try to raise the pH of hydroponic fertilizers. Using the water above with a pH of 10, a reaction occurs. Does calcium react with phosphate/magnesium/sulfur?
Nitrogen based fertilizers have and acidifying effect on soils primarily due to nitrification, the conversion of ammonium (NH4+) to nitrate (NO3-). Different nitrogen based fertilizers have varying acidifying effects. You can google "Fertilizer Equivalent Acidity Chart" to find those differences. I'm not certain I understand the second question. Are you trying to adjust the pH of your fertilizer inputs, or of the hydroponic solution? What is the pH of the water that you have available? Are you seeing a reaction in the water? Thanks for watching!
@@SoiLab Yes. I tried to increase the pH of the fertilizer solution. using potassium hydroxide. which was originally 5.5 to 7. but there was a reaction like fog. then I let it sit for a while. there was a white flour-like sediment at the bottom of the bucket.
@@SoiLab then I tried using limestone that I dissolved. I took only the clear water to increase it. there was another reaction. I am worried that the fertilizer I gave will not be absorbed optimally by the plants.
@@ubaygarden What is likely happening is that the hydroxide is reacting with Calcium, Magnesium, and potentially Iron as well and that is what is forming the precipitate (white flour-like sediment). This will certainly reduce the availability of those elements in the short term.
@@SoiLab So to increase the pH of the soil, the best way is to use limestone? But I dissolve it first and take only the clear water. Is that good? Rather than sprinkling lime directly on the soil. Limestone contains calcium carbonate.
Wow may God bless you sir for this great, interesting and super informative work you do. Your experiment is super helpful. I would also like to know how to apply ashes as a supplement for the lime as it is cheaper and more readily available where I'm from(comparison between treated and untreated woodash would also be appreciated). Much love from Nigeria
Awesome channel.
I have a question. How much sulphur or citric acid i have to use per ft³?
Citric Acid is preferable to plants as It produces Calcium Citrates as opposed to Calcium Sulfate. Calcium Citrate is more easily taken up by plants.
If you have a neutral pH (~7) is there any value of trying to push it slightly downward for grass or is the money/time better spent elsewhere?
Thank you for this! You rock 🪨
Thanks Kyle!
Helo there . I got clay like soil which is well over 7 on the scale in sum cases is over 8 . Drainage is totally not good . But will the lime work in my case ?
I don't understand the mechanism that would see pH levels drop over time in the acidic lime treatments. Intuitively, I'd expect the opposite result as the lime has more time to react with the soil. Can you offer your thoughts?
And how did you apply the lime? Simply sprinkle of top of the soil? If so, your sampling is likely being contaminated when you insert the probe as the lime is right on the surface. Seems to me you'd want to scrape the top of the probe site and only test the subsurface soil.
Soil buffering capacity is the soil’s ability to maintain a relatively stable pH despite adding lime. The same can be seen in the very basic soil where even the high rate of Elemental Sulfur could not change the soil pH. This is why multiple applications are needed and consistent monitoring is required to change a soil's pH.
As for contamination, these soils sat for months with consistent watering that could be seen reaching the bottom of the container. We wanted to simulate a garden bed or how your soil will be amended outside.
My soil test came back at 5, but my calcuim is extremely high.. is that normal?
Calcitic, or dolomitic, lime? (For bermuda, ph5.3, 'high' calcium, 'very high' magnesium)
Calcitic lime would be best if you have high magnesium.
Good info. The muzak at the end is annoying.
Great videos by the way.
Plz tell us the quantity of citric acid per 1000 square feet application
Hi Farm League, There is not defined published rates on citric acid applications but in this study we highlighted 2-4lbs per 1000sq.ft. respectively.
How do you test the pH level? the test kit I have only measures by 1.0 increments. How do you measure the pH of the water?
Er, they are a soils testing lab. I suspect their equipment is a tad more accurate than next-to-worthless test strips.
this guy look a lot like the guy from smarter everyday channel