my only critique is the initial gauge indication... no indicating face or both ends to make sure its parallel? tend not to rely on stepped jaws. and i cant see why you wouldnt indicate an mt4 from the ID. dont care if its rated concentric to angstroms... im referencing the ID, i can reach the ID...
This video is for students to show them the easiest way to set up this particular machine. It’s not necessarily the way I would do it in the industry, because this is based off of transferrable data from a so-called masterpiece to the work piece of work currently trying to grind Thank you for taking the time to comment on my videos are not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, and they show generally only one point of view It is extremely helpful for viewers to see exclamations, and explanations from other people’s point of you Thank you for your comments Ray
@@shopandmath i'll accept that :) one could assume in certain situations its flat on a square backing plate, and jigged to only require centralising. as long as you hit whats specced on the drawing... lol. and yes, if you try to cover every detail in a video it gets long and boring)
@@paradiselost9946 I don’t remember if I showed a picture of the drawing or not. This is a project that we do in our level three general machinist class. Over the years, we’ve made it simpler for the students 15 years ago, we used to have to make the whole part and set it up on a face plate. Now we only have to set it up in a for jaw chuck and copy the angle from a master by doing this it covers all of the requirements in the curriculum and learning outcomes It frees up much more time for CNC Ray
So I was watching the video and I noticed your name in the bottom corner. You were my level 1 machinist teacher. Still go by the saying cleanliness is next to godliness.
Thanks for showing the Morse Taper with Imperial measurements. The Wikipedia page has this all in metric, but it was an inch system design. Also you probably should make it clear this is a STUB MT#4. I have not checked to see if it is per the Machinery handbook definition of a Stub MT. I wish I had the machine you show here. I'm working on regrinding wheel hubs for my surface grinder. I'm going to do that on a lathe with a tool post grinder. I've been playing with an ER50 collet chuck. But so far the eBay seller sends them with mega runout, even though the description states TIR 0.0002". One test your video could have done, is when verifying the master part for correct taper, rotate the master part at the minor and major diameter to ensure no test indicator movement. That's where I'm running into troubles with the ER50. I can dial in my zero set lathe chuck (identical to 4 jaw chuck) at the major diameter I get noise in the tenths indicator, but at the minor diameter I'm getting 11 tenths of runout. Thanks for the videos, they make me a better machinist.
Hi Fred Thank you for commenting much appreciated You are correct the opening diameter is set for the stub number four This is a two-part project that my level three students make The second part is internal grinding which is cut down from an original Part The master gauge is somewhat accurate I’ve checked it with the CMM machine along with the plug Well that was a few years ago when it was made The main objective or learning outcome from this project is the ability to be able to set up grind to size and fit The jaw Chuck is our new addition to this project We used to have to set this up on a face plate with three clamps that is why the park has a flange on the bottom of it Thanks for commenting and watching Ray
I just checked and the machineries handbook and the stub and the standard gauge for the number for Morris taper is 1.231 for both I’m using the 25th edition and it’s on page 905 and 906
Hi could u pls help me to clear for feed I use for rough boring bar for milling machine give u exam. Using 200 rpm and 8 inchs bore diameter For single rough boring bar feed = 200×.005 and for twin rough boring bar feed=200×.010 All I'm asking if you double the feed per tooth number if using twin bars and what you recommend for steel feed per tooth
The part with the orange paint is a master It has the correct taper Step one Put the master inside the 4 jaw chuck and centre it from the outside Step two To help I have 3-D printed an indicator holder that mounts to the grinding wheel arm this makes the set up much easier(have not made video of this yet) Tilt the table until the internal angle of the master run zero with the indicator Step three Put your work piece in the 4 Jaw chuck and centre it Your work piece is now centred and aligned to cut a number 4 Morse taper The master test plug that I’m using has the ratio number written on the side I think it’s some thing like 0.001 diameter equals 0.019 in depth I hope this helps if not I sent me another question This video was made to help my students because this is one of their projects Thank you and have a good night
my only critique is the initial gauge indication... no indicating face or both ends to make sure its parallel? tend not to rely on stepped jaws. and i cant see why you wouldnt indicate an mt4 from the ID. dont care if its rated concentric to angstroms... im referencing the ID, i can reach the ID...
This video is for students to show them the easiest way to set up this particular machine. It’s not necessarily the way I would do it in the industry, because this is based off of transferrable data from a so-called masterpiece to the work piece of work currently trying to grind
Thank you for taking the time to comment on my videos are not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, and they show generally only one point of view
It is extremely helpful for viewers to see exclamations, and explanations from other people’s point of you
Thank you for your comments
Ray
@@shopandmath i'll accept that :) one could assume in certain situations its flat on a square backing plate, and jigged to only require centralising.
as long as you hit whats specced on the drawing... lol.
and yes, if you try to cover every detail in a video it gets long and boring)
@@paradiselost9946
I don’t remember if I showed a picture of the drawing or not. This is a project that we do in our level three general machinist class.
Over the years, we’ve made it simpler for the students
15 years ago, we used to have to make the whole part and set it up on a face plate. Now we only have to set it up in a for jaw chuck and copy the angle from a master by doing this it covers all of the requirements in the curriculum and learning outcomes
It frees up much more time for CNC
Ray
Cool stuff. Very informative as usual.
Glad you liked it!
So I was watching the video and I noticed your name in the bottom corner. You were my level 1 machinist teacher. Still go by the saying cleanliness is next to godliness.
Good to hear from you
Hopefully enjoy the video
Ray
A very good lesson. Thanks for the info. BC
Thanks for showing the Morse Taper with Imperial measurements. The Wikipedia page has this all in metric, but it was an inch system design. Also you probably should make it clear this is a STUB MT#4. I have not checked to see if it is per the Machinery handbook definition of a Stub MT. I wish I had the machine you show here. I'm working on regrinding wheel hubs for my surface grinder. I'm going to do that on a lathe with a tool post grinder. I've been playing with an ER50 collet chuck. But so far the eBay seller sends them with mega runout, even though the description states TIR 0.0002".
One test your video could have done, is when verifying the master part for correct taper, rotate the master part at the minor and major diameter to ensure no test indicator movement. That's where I'm running into troubles with the ER50. I can dial in my zero set lathe chuck (identical to 4 jaw chuck) at the major diameter I get noise in the tenths indicator, but at the minor diameter I'm getting 11 tenths of runout.
Thanks for the videos, they make me a better machinist.
Hi Fred
Thank you for commenting much appreciated
You are correct the opening diameter is set for the stub number four
This is a two-part project that my level three students make
The second part is internal grinding which is cut down from an original Part
The master gauge is somewhat accurate I’ve checked it with the CMM machine along with the plug
Well that was a few years ago when it was made
The main objective or learning outcome from this project is the ability to be able to set up grind to size and fit
The jaw Chuck is our new addition to this project
We used to have to set this up on a face plate with three clamps that is why the park has a flange on the bottom of it
Thanks for commenting and watching
Ray
I just checked and the machineries handbook and the stub and the standard gauge for the number for Morris taper is 1.231 for both I’m using the 25th edition and it’s on page 905 and 906
Thanks for this video. How fast does the grinder spin?
super
thank you
Ray
Hi could u pls help me to clear for feed I use for rough boring bar for milling machine give u exam.
Using 200 rpm and 8 inchs bore diameter
For single rough boring bar feed = 200×.005 and for twin rough boring bar feed=200×.010
All I'm asking if you double the feed per tooth number if using twin bars and what you recommend for steel feed per tooth
What kind of steel is this?
Mild steel in this case
For this project if it was heat treated or to be treated then we would use an 01 material
mild steel
Why the alignment was done on the taper to be grounded? What if the side you indicated does not have the correct taper?
The part with the orange paint is a master
It has the correct taper
Step one
Put the master inside the 4 jaw chuck and centre it from the outside
Step two
To help I have 3-D printed an indicator holder that mounts to the grinding wheel arm this makes the set up much easier(have not made video of this yet)
Tilt the table until the internal angle of the master run zero with the indicator
Step three
Put your work piece in the 4 Jaw chuck and centre it
Your work piece is now centred and aligned to cut a number 4 Morse taper
The master test plug that I’m using has the ratio number written on the side I think it’s some thing like 0.001 diameter equals 0.019 in depth
I hope this helps if not I sent me another question
This video was made to help my students because this is one of their projects
Thank you and have a good night
@@shopandmath Thanks for explaining. I missed the fact you grinded another part and not the orange one.
What's zed??
it like yed and xed but with more depth 🙂