Estupendo Suratos, que habilidad con esas manos, gracias por el video. Como todo lo que promociona Vallejo es muy bueno...llevo con la marca casi veinticinco años y no la cambio por nada. Un cordial saludo desde España. Sigo el canal.
I am always having problems with Vallejo primers and even their air range. the primers always clog up my airbrushes (Iwatas, H&S etc.) even with the advised ratios and advised air pressure. anyone else having this problem ?
This video was very informative, I know realise I was way off with my thinning ratio and that was causing my airbrush to clog up. A quick question about the ratio though does the 2:1:1 basically mean 50% Paint, 25% Thinner, 25% Flow Improver? (yes I am terrible with ratios)
Yes, I know its been a long time but basically yes, what it means is that lets say, for 2 drops of paint you use 1 drop of thiner and 1 drop of flow improver.
Hi Don. I purchased a bottle of 74.640 white Mecha Primer. It does not cover very well and tends to pool in corner and along hard lines. I spray straight from the bottle between 15-20 PSI. Tamiya primer in a can covers 1000 times better than the Mecha Primer. Am I doing something wrong? I've varied my distance and PSI with no luck. Did I get a bad bottle?
Thin your paints. Tamiya is designed for airbrushes explicitly and already comes in a milky consistency. Vallejo needs flow improver. That's my understanding of them
Hello! Our Mecha range is made for injected plastic models and Gundam kits; they are often painted with a stronger primer like these (specially formulated for scratches, rough handling, impact, friction, etc ;) Anyway, our Surface Primers are good and resistant too, but works better for miniatures, vehicles and dioramas :)
This is just a How to Prime video sir. I hope my video here will show that the Mecha primers are crazy strong. I have been using the surface primers before too. And I was surprised with the strong adherence of the Mecha primer - th-cam.com/video/gkdjTnj2J3M/w-d-xo.html
Hello. Mecha Colors have a satin finish, extra resistant and impact proof especially designed for airbrushing surfaces exposed to aggressive manipulation.
@@DonSuratos great video, when you are sketching with ivory primer what needle size are you using there?I saw that you are at 15 psi. Also when you are shooting black primer what needle size and psi ? This will help me a lot . I have a harder and steenbeck geminus with .15mm and .4mm needle.
As for me it’s no difference, using Vallejo big classical PU black/gray primers - the same awesome results for 1/35, 1/48, 1/24 and even 1/12 in motos. The black primer doesn’t need black painting over, if you want semi-gloss cover.
Hello. Mecha Colors have a satin finish, extra resistant and impact proof especially designed for airbrushing surfaces exposed to aggressive manipulation.
@@DonSuratos PLZ do man i got a mg RX 78 origins and mg sinanju stein ver ka ready to prime and paint. i have a full set of vallejo game but i wanna see if should invest in some of the mecha paints for gundams.
@@emmanuelhernandez3200 Since you have Game paints already, the big differnec with Mecha is the scratch resistance. So I highly recommend you use Mecha Primers and Mecha Varnishes with your Game colors. Mecha Colors are nice and a good investent though. ;)
So a big squirt of paint followed by a smaller squirt of something else followed by another squirt of a third product and then it's dry (?) in 5 to 10 minutes but then 24 hours or maybe a week or what? No thanks.There are way easier products on the market to use. Supposed to be how to use Mecha primer but then you spend a few minutes slapping on black goop. Not impressed at all.
This is how a lot of polyurethane primers work. They all "dry" quickly and are technically workable fairly quickly, however, you shouldn't be messing with the model for a good bit of time to make sure it's set. If this doesn't work for you, don't use it.
I don't see what's so hard about it. In 10 mins it's going to be dry enough to paint over, but you need to be careful with it. 24-48 hours it's going to be more durable, this is how long I try to wait. But after a week it will be fully cured.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | นางเอกหมอลำเงินล้าน "อุ๋งอิ๋ง เพชรบ้านแพง" & ไฮโซสาวสุดฮอต "ลิลลี่ เหงียน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jPxQS_EgrJ4/mqdefault.jpg)
Anyone else's mouth drop when he started painting over the fully painted scene? 😱🤣
My thought was "Vallejo, you're doing priming wrong"... But what do I know!?
Estupendo Suratos, que habilidad con esas manos, gracias por el video. Como todo lo que promociona Vallejo es muy bueno...llevo con la marca casi veinticinco años y no la cambio por nada. Un cordial saludo desde España. Sigo el canal.
I am always having problems with Vallejo primers and even their air range. the primers always clog up my airbrushes (Iwatas, H&S etc.) even with the advised ratios and advised air pressure. anyone else having this problem ?
yes every time!
Looks intriguing for the many mecha fans out there who want to customize their own models from Bandai. I'm interested.
This video was very informative, I know realise I was way off with my thinning ratio and that was causing my airbrush to clog up. A quick question about the ratio though does the 2:1:1 basically mean 50% Paint, 25% Thinner, 25% Flow Improver? (yes I am terrible with ratios)
Yes, I know its been a long time but basically yes, what it means is that lets say, for 2 drops of paint you use 1 drop of thiner and 1 drop of flow improver.
What PSI is being used?
Hi Don. I purchased a bottle of 74.640 white Mecha Primer. It does not cover very well and tends to pool in corner and along hard lines. I spray straight from the bottle between 15-20 PSI. Tamiya primer in a can covers 1000 times better than the Mecha Primer. Am I doing something wrong? I've varied my distance and PSI with no luck. Did I get a bad bottle?
Thin your paints. Tamiya is designed for airbrushes explicitly and already comes in a milky consistency. Vallejo needs flow improver. That's my understanding of them
What's the difference between this line of product and the Vallejo Surface primer line ?
Hello! Our Mecha range is made for injected plastic models and Gundam kits; they are often painted with a stronger primer like these (specially formulated for scratches, rough handling, impact, friction, etc ;) Anyway, our Surface Primers are good and resistant too, but works better for miniatures, vehicles and dioramas :)
@@vallejocolors Thanks for the reply ! I'm a wargamer so I'll stick to your surface primer then, but thanks for the information =D
@@KhaTecK You're welcome :) We are here to help!
Where or when can we see the finished product? Looks great!
Thank you. Maybe in a few more videos sir. Uploading each step of the process. :D
I use this same 2:1:1 with mecha grey, .35 needle, 15 psi and it came out extremely runny :( terrible experience
Great video!
What’s the difference between mecha primers and surface primers? I use the latter and don’t see why I should switch to mecha..am I missing something?
This is just a How to Prime video sir. I hope my video here will show that the Mecha primers are crazy strong. I have been using the surface primers before too. And I was surprised with the strong adherence of the Mecha primer - th-cam.com/video/gkdjTnj2J3M/w-d-xo.html
Hello. Mecha Colors have a satin finish, extra resistant and impact proof especially designed for airbrushing surfaces exposed to aggressive manipulation.
@@DonSuratos great video, when you are sketching with ivory primer what needle size are you using there?I saw that you are at 15 psi. Also when you are shooting black primer what needle size and psi ? This will help me a lot . I have a harder and steenbeck geminus with .15mm and .4mm needle.
Same thinner and flow improver raction with mecha colors??
As for me it’s no difference, using Vallejo big classical PU black/gray primers - the same awesome results for 1/35, 1/48, 1/24 and even 1/12 in motos. The black primer doesn’t need black painting over, if you want semi-gloss cover.
Where can I get the model that is being used in the video? I would like to try painting it.
it looks like it might be a perfect grade zaku II. Try amazon
nope, it mega size zaku II.
@@kangbaksoborax2309 Thank you for that!
Oh nice like yeah😎
How are they as "brush on" primers?
Hello. You can use Mecha Colors with brush.
what the different between Mecha paint and model air? i got both for airbrush
Mecha colors / Primers have better adherence sir. My next videos ( better camera ) will show the strong adherence of these paints/ :)
Hello. Mecha Colors have a satin finish, extra resistant and impact proof especially designed for airbrushing surfaces exposed to aggressive manipulation.
@@DonSuratos PLZ do man i got a mg RX 78 origins and mg sinanju stein ver ka ready to prime and paint. i have a full set of vallejo game but i wanna see if should invest in some of the mecha paints for gundams.
@@emmanuelhernandez3200 Since you have Game paints already, the big differnec with Mecha is the scratch resistance. So I highly recommend you use Mecha Primers and Mecha Varnishes with your Game colors. Mecha Colors are nice and a good investent though. ;)
Anyone wondering why he painted over an already painted customized zaku?
can u sand them?
Yes, you can!
So a big squirt of paint followed by a smaller squirt of something else followed by another squirt of a third product and then it's dry (?) in 5 to 10 minutes but then 24 hours or maybe a week or what? No thanks.There are way easier products on the market to use. Supposed to be how to use Mecha primer but then you spend a few minutes slapping on black goop. Not impressed at all.
This is how a lot of polyurethane primers work. They all "dry" quickly and are technically workable fairly quickly, however, you shouldn't be messing with the model for a good bit of time to make sure it's set. If this doesn't work for you, don't use it.
I don't see what's so hard about it. In 10 mins it's going to be dry enough to paint over, but you need to be careful with it. 24-48 hours it's going to be more durable, this is how long I try to wait. But after a week it will be fully cured.