Hi kev i have a v5 psb rev h just replaced a blown thermal fuse and the set is heating to 200 and no sign of stopping r8 at 51.7k and r11 51.9k disoldered the thermostat and is 78 any idea what could be the problem heater is reading 73.4 thermostat side and 73.6 fuse side unscrewed from the board r1 r5 both read 350k and climbing r10 530k can't thank you enough just cleaned the switch now got a stable 179c
Hello mate I have the GHD MK5's. Resistors are good. Heaters and fuse is good Cable is good. What could be the issue? Could it be the clear plastic connector that the power lead connects into the end of the straightener? How do I test this?
its a BTA225B triac which is very common, its very unlikely to have gone faulty, if it has blown apart replace the whole pcb as most other things will be faulty also.
Hi Kev, I have watched your repairs on GHD Straighteners and have some questions I hope you can help with please. I am looking at a set of GHD's model no ghd 5.0 Jemelia Limited Scarlet and had opened up the case on both sides. The thermal fuse has blown so I need to replace and that's why they wont switch on, but on the other side I am checking the resistors and the board layout is not one I have seen you repair. Where the blue and white wires that connect to the board the board is covered in a grey hard rubbery protection. It is obviously covering more that just the wire connection to the board but I don't know what. After that there are the resistors R1 and R5, below R5 is R10. On R1 and R10 i'm getting 0.62M and on R5 i'm getting 370k and it rises, i'm guessing R5 is the reason why the thermal fuse has blown. The colour code is Orange Black Green then Red at the bottom. I have published a video here th-cam.com/video/IgFTfX3OjcY/w-d-xo.html. My questions are: 1. Should the resistors all read the same? 2. Why are they R1 R5 and R10? I haven't seen these on any other GHD video. 3. What is under the grey stuff, is it more resistors?
Hi, sounds like a rev L PCB, remove gray rubber and check R8 + R11, change thermal fuse which it sounds like you done, unsolder thermisor and check it reads about 100K ohms at room temp (if over 130k it will take out the thermal fuse), let me know how you get on. R1,R5,R10 never go wrong
Hi, thanks for your quick reply, the board is a rev G. Under the grey stuff is the R11 and R8. R11 is cracked and burnt, it reads 46k on the tester and R8 looks fine and reads 52.1 so looks like i need to replace just the R11. As for the thermisor do you think I need to go to the trouble of de-soldering it now I have found the R11 issue?
I have a thermal setting and lead for my tester, I had replaced the thermal fuse but didn't dig out the other resistors from under the grey stuff. they worked for a short while and I tested the temp then and it was in range around the 180 mark and held at that for 5 mins. After reassembling and giving them back to the wife she used them once and they went again but that's no surprise, now I know to check everything first. Thanks for your help.
Hi can you please help me ... I have a ghd Mk5 model I replaced the thermal fuse and it's still not switching on I tested the resistors R8 and R11 they were fine i tested the plates they were fine i tested the main cable that's fine so i can't see what else can be the problem .. Will you please be so kind to give me advice at what else might be the cause cos now currently it's not switching on no beeping sound nothing I checked everything that are usually the problems PLEASE HELP ME.Thank you for your videos 😄🥰
Thank you I am also thinking that is my problem since I replaced few things still dead so that must be the problem all along , Thank you for your help I appreciate it I will give feedback once replaced 😊🙏
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I changed the faulty resistor r11, and the magic came instantly. My wife is happy. Thank you!!
Legend! Identical symptoms, changed out r8 and r11. Cost me 10c. Wife thinks I have skills. Thank you 👍
Hi kev i have a v5 psb rev h just replaced a blown thermal fuse and the set is heating to 200 and no sign of stopping r8 at 51.7k and r11 51.9k disoldered the thermostat and is 78 any idea what could be the problem heater is reading 73.4 thermostat side and 73.6 fuse side unscrewed from the board r1 r5 both read 350k and climbing r10 530k
can't thank you enough just cleaned the switch now got a stable 179c
Hello mate I have the GHD MK5's.
Resistors are good.
Heaters and fuse is good
Cable is good.
What could be the issue? Could it be the clear plastic connector that the power lead connects into the end of the straightener? How do I test this?
probably a faulty PIC chip if everything else is good.
Ok where can I buy these or do I need to replace the board?
Thank you!👍
Sir in my Anex haie straigthener there is one transistor BT225 which i cannot find anywhere in the market, kindly tell me its substitute
its a BTA225B triac which is very common, its very unlikely to have gone faulty, if it has blown apart replace the whole pcb as most other things will be faulty also.
Hi Kev, I have watched your repairs on GHD Straighteners and have some questions I hope you can help with please.
I am looking at a set of GHD's model no ghd 5.0 Jemelia Limited Scarlet and had opened up the case on both sides. The thermal fuse has blown so I need to replace and that's why they wont switch on, but on the other side I am checking the resistors and the board layout is not one I have seen you repair. Where the blue and white wires that connect to the board the board is covered in a grey hard rubbery protection. It is obviously covering more that just the wire connection to the board but I don't know what. After that there are the resistors R1 and R5, below R5 is R10. On R1 and R10 i'm getting 0.62M and on R5 i'm getting 370k and it rises, i'm guessing R5 is the reason why the thermal fuse has blown. The colour code is Orange Black Green then Red at the bottom. I have published a video here th-cam.com/video/IgFTfX3OjcY/w-d-xo.html.
My questions are:
1. Should the resistors all read the same?
2. Why are they R1 R5 and R10? I haven't seen these on any other GHD video.
3. What is under the grey stuff, is it more resistors?
Hi, sounds like a rev L PCB, remove gray rubber and check R8 + R11, change thermal fuse which it sounds like you done, unsolder thermisor and check it reads about 100K ohms at room temp (if over 130k it will take out the thermal fuse), let me know how you get on. R1,R5,R10 never go wrong
Hi, thanks for your quick reply, the board is a rev G. Under the grey stuff is the R11 and R8. R11 is cracked and burnt, it reads 46k on the tester and R8 looks fine and reads 52.1 so looks like i need to replace just the R11. As for the thermisor do you think I need to go to the trouble of de-soldering it now I have found the R11 issue?
If you have something to measure the temperature then you can test it this way, its proberly just that R11
I have a thermal setting and lead for my tester, I had replaced the thermal fuse but didn't dig out the other resistors from under the grey stuff. they worked for a short while and I tested the temp then and it was in range around the 180 mark and held at that for 5 mins. After reassembling and giving them back to the wife she used them once and they went again but that's no surprise, now I know to check everything first. Thanks for your help.
no problem
Hi can you please help me ... I have a ghd Mk5 model I replaced the thermal fuse and it's still not switching on I tested the resistors R8 and R11 they were fine i tested the plates they were fine i tested the main cable that's fine so i can't see what else can be the problem .. Will you please be so kind to give me advice at what else might be the cause cos now currently it's not switching on no beeping sound nothing I checked everything that are usually the problems PLEASE HELP ME.Thank you for your videos 😄🥰
you may have a dead PIC
Thank you I am also thinking that is my problem since I replaced few things still dead so that must be the problem all along , Thank you for your help I appreciate it I will give feedback once replaced 😊🙏
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