This is one of the cleanest builds I've seen for a waste oil burner. The heat exchanger tube is a good idea! More of that heat contained in the tank can be used instead of exhausting it out the chimney. I'm tempted to build my own and use all the jugs of oil from the oil changes I've been doing. Thanks for sharing the video!
I like the very simple build idea. Going to try this on my gate valve on the research I've done. If you just take it apart and take a small little file and put a nick in the end of it, he'll be able to control the feed better. I don't know how true that is. I haven't tried it yet. I've been researching this and I really like your build direct easy. I'll tell you how it goes. Thank you so much for your video
Nice setup! It looks well built and very neat. I would suggest it might just need a little fine tuning to get it perfect. The temp of the thing doesn't matter, it's the fuel consumption that dictates the heat output. 1L hour is roughly 10 Kw. The reason you are having trouble with heat retention in the pan and it's not staying hot enough is because your holes are in the wrong place. they should be on the top of the disk so the incoming air makes little jets of flame that play on the oil and the pan keeping it hot. Where you have them now on the sides, the flame would come in and arc up the centre without probably ever touching the pan at all. I suspect the heating the pan is seeing is only radiant not direct heat and it's barely enough to keep the oil vaporising. Also the backfiring can be lessened or eliminated buy drilling more secondary air holes. They are the larger ones in the main pipe above the pan. You can drill as many as you like, even run mesh there as this acts much like a flame holder. You could also try blocking some of the primary holes. Basically they control the heat output and the secondary holes control the mixture. If you have too much primary air the thing will produce gas from the oil and if there isn't enough secondary air to burn it, the thing will smoke or backfire as you are seeing. Hope this helps and good work!
+Oil Burner Wow, thx for the amazing comment. I do have a few holes directly in the disk, but I must say, what you state makes sense. I will cut a few more holes yet and I can tell the vaporizing will most likely get better, like you say. This would also explain why the cast Iron pan never worked as well, since there isn't enough heat in the first place. Now I also get the whole mixture adjustment, I had played with it but like you pointed out, it needs fine tuning. Again thank you so much for such a detailed analysis. I might just post an update on this with your suggestions. Best regards, Dan!
The secret is carburating. That noise reveals you are carburating the oil and the mixture exploits . It's a natural carburator and it can produce a lot of heat. Very much efficient than a simple oil burning. Good job.
You are correct and spot on, the only problem I have with this setup is the actual adjustment of air and oil. I have yet to modify the burner to regulate both properly.
The reason you still have smoke is that your oil is not being properly vaporized before ignition. The pan your oil drip into should be hotter (not on the ground) and the air should be coming up through the middle of it. You have made many great strides towards a good design, but if you take a look at Gerry’s DIY Channel you will see several key innovations that will completely remove your smoke and drip feed problems. Good job thus far. 👍
@@NMranchhand great points and exactly what I changed on my big burner, where oil is few from the top onto a hot plate that will preheat and evaporate the oil in the path of forced air, blue flames and no smoke at all are the result. Now to changing this burner to a similar design, less the forced air. Thanks for commenting!
@@oBseSsIoNPC I'm trying make it without smoke for it inside the home.I use burning gas for reduce the smoke at the exit, but always some smoke escapes.I think is impossible, because cars use a good carburator (even a catalizator) but always obtain smoke. we cant make a better carburator than a cars factory. Its a good system, but I think we will need always a smoke exit.
@@issaleganes For inside a home, I would definitely recommend a forced air setup, it burns MUCH cleaner and you can regulate it. The gravity fed burners need to be dialed in and rely heavily on consistent oil type and condition, with a danger from water content. Forced air burners are safer, hotter, cleaner, but require more expensive hardware and power. This "open" design is definitely NOT a good idea for a home. My shop always has the door cracked open when I work, beside the fact that the burner is too hot, lol.
you are the only designer that uses oil without an air pump , so it work with the electricity outage perfect design it is based on the European diesel stoves thank you and that is awesome job
Thank you! And yes, that is the major advantage of this design, pure gravity and draft from the burn. HOWEVER, the design has it's flaws: 1) Ash build up in the pan 2) not as hot as air powered 3) not quite as efficient (due to lack of heat) 4) does not burn as clean I might revisit this build later, to make it burn better and more reliable.
if you want simplicity without needing electricity, smudge pots (orchard heaters) are the way to go. A bit dirty/smoky on startup, but like any good waste oil burner, the hotter they get the cleaner they burn.
You can make a trap so the oil feeds automatically, as the oil get burned it lets air up to the sealed oil tank and so that lets some more oil come down in to the pan until the outlet is blocked by the rising oil.
Instead of trying to control the amount of oil dripping in by valve or squeezing the pipe a sealed container for the oil and the pipe going to the bottom of the tub then oil won't come out of the container until air goes up the tube to let the oil drip into the tub. Albert Harvey Rotary Engines
That is actually exactly how my large burner was initially set up. However I had problems with proper dosing. Basically, it does NOT work with waste oil, especially when it goes through different stages of viscosity and fluidity (temperature change). What happened is, that it either starved out the stove, because of build up on the pipe or because it took too long for new oil to enter the chamber. Or too much oil would flood in, because enough air could get into the ever changing volume of the tank and just allow too much in. It works on small stuff and with consistent fluids, just not waste oil burners. Takes more finessing hehe
I think I had a bolt bent into an L-shape in the back, into which the cast short handle fit and on the long handle was a similar but adjustable bolt to latch it into. Set the pan in place, twist it and that's it. Very susceptible to overflow with oil as it was not sealed to the brake disc.
Can you please talk more about your "pipe thru the middle" I thought I had an original al thought here I plan to do this, attach a fan on one side, and ducting on the other, forcing hot air thru a wall or into anywhere I desire. I also hope to run copper coil(s) inside vessel with external connections for circulating a closed water loop, that will later be used for a shower. How were holes in side and top cut? Welded?
Since this was more of a proof of concept, everything was done quite crudely. I did have a small plasma cutter to do the holes, literally ALL of them. Just eyeballed and started cutting. The pipe through the middle is just there to allow the massive flame to "lick it" and help disperse the hotspot as well as move air through said pipe. It is indeed welded all the way around.
You want to make a garbage incinerator? I found the best way for that is indeed a metal drum with at least 2cm holes (1 inch or more) in 9cm or 1/2ft increments. I actually cut the bottom of mine, so I just take the shell off, scoop the remains up or rake them flat (if there is no plastic or metal left) you can move the shell somewhere else. For added effect I just throw oil on it so the garbage is soaked in it. If you have a reversible vacuum cleaner, they make great blowers to really crank up the heat, by blowing into one of the bottom holes be warned though that those drums will deform even "melt" when you add extra heat with oil and air and the air will throw sparks out of the top and sides. An enclosed version is a large propane tank with an air tube down the center and stops under the (dome). The chimney is welded to the outside shell. Put garbage around the inside, add oil, light her up, close the lid, add air and jazam, only metal will be left, not even ash :P
@@oBseSsIoNPC I’m really just wanting to burn personal and private documents and shredded papers...I have several trash bags full! Do you think that would still work good?
@@outdoorzone If you want to burn paper to a tiny pile of ash, a burning barrel will work, but paper shreds tend to fly away unless you put a fine metal grate over the top. Sometimes if the agitation of air is insufficient the paper will burn into a pile and the ash becomes a barrier for paper inside the pile and it wont even burn. (To avoid this, you can try just adding holes from the bottom to the lower third of the barrel. The draft rushing into the holes will agitate the paper. It is by far the quickest thing to build. Old barrel, cut some holes, grab an old stove drying rack, viola. Add paper, add oil (doesn't take much) light it up. NEVER use gasoline. When you add paper, layer it with oil, soak a layer, more paper, soak and so on. A liter of oil for a 55gal barrel is more than enough. If you use diesel, you can use a third of that. Alternatively, just use a paper shredder with crimp and dispose of the shred in different bags (mixing shreds) :)
you certainly can add a coil to the inside for heating water. My big burner is more suitable for this however, due to the much better heat distribution and vortex effect.
Hi I'm a huge fan of you channel I've been wanting to make a oil furnace as a charcoal furnace coast way to much to use weekly. I'm very confused on how the furnace works. Does it just run of oil dripping on to a open flame with a consistent and strong air flow?
I recommend you watching the update video in the description box. Basically, the oil fumes is what you want to achieve through heat and burn them off "slowly" with JUST ENOUGH air for a clean burn. In a drip oil burner, you wont achieve very high temperatures, but the consumption is quite low (makes sense) and it is easy to build. Now, the burner pan is basically ALWAYS full with oil and the airflow regulates the speed of the burn.
You shouldn't have any smoke. You need more air in the burn tube or use a slotted rotor which seems to work better than just a plate. Also your holes in the burn tube should be smaller, and more of them, which mixes better and makes a more complete burn. If your system is still smoking it's not running clean. You should never have to clean out you pipes if you build it right. Do yourself a favor and watch other videos here to see the ones that have a slotted rotor under the burn tube and you'll see what I mean. Good luck!
Hello there! Great burner you got there! I'm planning to go make myself one, allready looking for some materials and got some sort of water pressure tank which is a little bit bigger then yours. I also found a nice pan i thought, but I just learned a cast steel pan doesn't get hot fast enough. My question: why a not vented brake disk instead of a vented disk, so you dont have to drill holes? Is it because it cools down too fast? Thanks!
Thanks mate! The cast steel pan may take a while longer to heat up, but it will get you the best overall performance AND will NEVER burn through. Any other pan will loose it's bottom or will just not aid with an established burn. I will continue using heavy pans for sure. Also, when you do an intermediate cleanup, the cast steel retains a lot more heat and will fire RIGHT UP again.
Thanks for answering! So a steel pan is actually perfect for long burns. I want to use my heater as a hot tub heater so needs longer burning. How about the brake disk? Why non vented?
11glenktm11 A vented disk allows air flow you cannot control. The most important thing about the actual burn, is to control the primary air flow (holes closest to the fuel). The secondary holes are important also, but basically just control the temperature and condition of the burn (the more holes the better). I am going to implement a large shut off valve on my next burner, to adjust air flow into the fuel chamber.
ObsessionPC So I think I got my stuff together to start making my own burner. I saw you numered some sizes of the holes you made. What diameter pipe do you use, the lower and upper? And the lenght of the lower pipe? I got mine now at about 20cm, or 8 inch for you ;), but think it is too long.. Can't wait to test and run my own!
11glenktm11 the pipe is the same all the way around not quite a 4 inch diameter. the lower pipe is about 4 1/4 inches long, which should be 6 inches instead. I find length of the mix pipe should be 50% over it's diameter.
right up to the point where you have no control over the air, as well as oil splashing out of the holes, when water (like coolant) might have gotten into the system. I tried it and it did not work for me. Beside, with only a few holes over the flames, you can regulate the heat output much better. You don't want too much air or she smokes a ton.
@@oBseSsIoNPC thanks for the reply. That might explain why my unit is throwing thick black smoke. I'll close off the rotor holes and see if I get any significant changes. I thought maybe my unit was starving of air because when i slide the pot and open a gap between the top of the pot and rotor it roars and heats up quicker. The smoke I'm producing is substantial though.
the pipe through the middle is just eye balled in place and there to catch more heat, I usually have a fan blowing air through it, making the heating more efficient (+surface)
I meant the "COMBUSTION CHAMBER ITSELF" pipe size, which is welded to the Rotor? (Not the Fuel Feed Tube) An the "FLUE SIZE", or Stove Pipe Chimney Pipe SIZE? THANKS
+BWWGL9 oh, it is a 4inch steel pipe. Preferably, the transition pipe between the rotor and vessel above should be bigger. If I had a larger pipe at hand, I would have installed a 6inch at least. The steps in the rotor mess with the air flow too much. The chimney is the same size pipe, 4 inch.
When the burner is running, I do not smell anything, nor does the Co-sensor pick up anything. The draft is good enough to pull fresh air from outside. The only times it thickens the air, is when I had too much oil in and it backfires (no danger). You cannot smell it.
Because air is coming back out of the secondary holes? I am starting a new project that uses forced air and the original design is amazing, burning with blue flames. This drip oil burner is not bad, but it is sensitive.
hii, just tell me the truth, is the beginning of the oil burning is like stinky and black ? surely right ? because it is not hot enough.. i see no growing red metal at the beginning.. and this method.. the suction is not strong enough to prevent the unburn gas into the holes below.. at in video at around 4 mins.. you said clean.. i believe it is not that clean.
The startup is dirty as can be. Once the burner is running "hot" the exhaust is as clean as it gets for a natural draft burner, which has noticeable but not obnoxious exhaust. This burner is VERY tricky to adjust, due to the size and ever changing draft.
ic. thanks for the truth. appreciate it. so, with a little bit of blower it will be much better ? not hair dryer.. it consumes to much to run full time.
i want to make one but also i dont want to die, plus its only like 50 Fahrenheit mid December here is southern California so to die just because i don't like wearing sweaters.....
I do prefer my new design of a heater that is based on forced air, it takes a lot less maintenance and care and is very safe when it comes to burning, spills etc. The advantage to this particular heater in the video is the fact that it runs on gravity and no electricity at all. It is a good little heater for sure. Always have a carbon monoxide alarm nearby!
RIGHT! only too bad the audio went to shit there. When too much oil burns too quickly and too hot and the exhaust can't take it...just stay cool and watch it take off like a V2 version 1.0
This is one of the cleanest builds I've seen for a waste oil burner. The heat exchanger tube is a good idea! More of that heat contained in the tank can be used instead of exhausting it out the chimney. I'm tempted to build my own and use all the jugs of oil from the oil changes I've been doing. Thanks for sharing the video!
thank you very much! Good luck and there is always room for improvement!
1
I like the very simple build idea. Going to try this on my gate valve on the research I've done. If you just take it apart and take a small little file and put a nick in the end of it, he'll be able to control the feed better. I don't know how true that is. I haven't tried it yet. I've been researching this and I really like your build direct easy. I'll tell you how it goes. Thank you so much for your video
God speed and thank you for the constructive comment 🙏
Kool build and you made some great safety points!! I’ll keep this in mind during my current build! Thank you!!!
Nice setup! It looks well built and very neat. I would suggest it might just need a little fine tuning to get it perfect.
The temp of the thing doesn't matter, it's the fuel consumption that dictates the heat output. 1L hour is roughly 10 Kw.
The reason you are having trouble with heat retention in the pan and it's not staying hot enough is because your holes are in the wrong place. they should be on the top of the disk so the incoming air makes little jets of flame that play on the oil and the pan keeping it hot. Where you have them now on the sides, the flame would come in and arc up the centre without probably ever touching the pan at all. I suspect the heating the pan is seeing is only radiant not direct heat and it's barely enough to keep the oil vaporising.
Also the backfiring can be lessened or eliminated buy drilling more secondary air holes. They are the larger ones in the main pipe above the pan. You can drill as many as you like, even run mesh there as this acts much like a flame holder. You could also try blocking some of the primary holes. Basically they control the heat output and the secondary holes control the mixture. If you have too much primary air the thing will produce gas from the oil and if there isn't enough secondary air to burn it, the thing will smoke or backfire as you are seeing.
Hope this helps and good work!
+Oil Burner Wow, thx for the amazing comment. I do have a few holes directly in the disk, but I must say, what you state makes sense. I will cut a few more holes yet and I can tell the vaporizing will most likely get better, like you say. This would also explain why the cast Iron pan never worked as well, since there isn't enough heat in the first place.
Now I also get the whole mixture adjustment, I had played with it but like you pointed out, it needs fine tuning.
Again thank you so much for such a detailed analysis.
I might just post an update on this with your suggestions.
Best regards, Dan!
The secret is carburating. That noise reveals you are carburating the oil and the mixture exploits . It's a natural carburator and it can produce a lot of heat. Very much efficient than a simple oil burning. Good job.
You are correct and spot on, the only problem I have with this setup is the actual adjustment of air and oil. I have yet to modify the burner to regulate both properly.
The reason you still have smoke is that your oil is not being properly vaporized before ignition. The pan your oil drip into should be hotter (not on the ground) and the air should be coming up through the middle of it. You have made many great strides towards a good design, but if you take a look at Gerry’s DIY Channel you will see several key innovations that will completely remove your smoke and drip feed problems. Good job thus far. 👍
@@NMranchhand great points and exactly what I changed on my big burner, where oil is few from the top onto a hot plate that will preheat and evaporate the oil in the path of forced air, blue flames and no smoke at all are the result. Now to changing this burner to a similar design, less the forced air. Thanks for commenting!
@@oBseSsIoNPC I'm trying make it without smoke for it inside the home.I use burning gas for reduce the smoke at the exit, but always some smoke escapes.I think is impossible, because cars use a good carburator (even a catalizator) but always obtain smoke. we cant make a better carburator than a cars factory. Its a good system, but I think we will need always a smoke exit.
@@issaleganes For inside a home, I would definitely recommend a forced air setup, it burns MUCH cleaner and you can regulate it. The gravity fed burners need to be dialed in and rely heavily on consistent oil type and condition, with a danger from water content. Forced air burners are safer, hotter, cleaner, but require more expensive hardware and power. This "open" design is definitely NOT a good idea for a home. My shop always has the door cracked open when I work, beside the fact that the burner is too hot, lol.
you are the only designer that uses oil without an air pump , so it work with the electricity outage perfect design it is based on the European diesel stoves
thank you and that is awesome job
Thank you! And yes, that is the major advantage of this design, pure gravity and draft from the burn.
HOWEVER, the design has it's flaws:
1) Ash build up in the pan
2) not as hot as air powered
3) not quite as efficient (due to lack of heat)
4) does not burn as clean
I might revisit this build later, to make it burn better and more reliable.
if you want simplicity without needing electricity, smudge pots (orchard heaters) are the way to go. A bit dirty/smoky on startup, but like any good waste oil burner, the hotter they get the cleaner they burn.
One of the most detailed videos on this subject. Great.
I like the design. Maybe something I will want to get the everlast out and weld up for the winter.
This design is based on Ozzirt's drip oil burner posted on TH-cam several years ago. I think his video is still posted.
While the ad is playing excellent closeup of the drip rate . Good quick demo of your oil heater . appreciate the typed video description
thank you very much, thanks for watching!
Cool build, but I’m leaning more to a build where the fire pan is located inside chamber and with a air assist on burner and outlet tubes.
I have since moved to two different designs, one is a rocket stove the other, well, a 800,000 BTU shop heater with forced air.
@@oBseSsIoNPC do you have a vid on the last one mentioned
@@dwaynelejeune3508 it is this one
th-cam.com/video/NyVdosZ_VUs/w-d-xo.html
Your the man, great video. I'm in Florida, usually not cold. Thanks
You can make a trap so the oil feeds automatically, as the oil get burned it lets air up to the sealed oil tank and so that lets some more oil come down in to the pan until the outlet is blocked by the rising oil.
+Dom Degood uhhhhhhh, isn't that a good idea. I have to think up a contraption for that.
Hello
What's the diameter and length of your burn pipe, please?
This is really good!
Dan just one more question if you do not mine. What dia burn chamber pipe are you using?
Thanks my freind.
Fantastic sir... Best on TH-cam yet. Thank you
thanks, wait till you see the new one! Building it today :D
Instead of trying to control the amount of oil dripping in by valve or squeezing the pipe a sealed container for the oil and the pipe going to the bottom of the tub then oil won't come out of the container until air goes up the tube to let the oil drip into the tub. Albert Harvey Rotary Engines
That is actually exactly how my large burner was initially set up. However I had problems with proper dosing. Basically, it does NOT work with waste oil, especially when it goes through different stages of viscosity and fluidity (temperature change). What happened is, that it either starved out the stove, because of build up on the pipe or because it took too long for new oil to enter the chamber. Or too much oil would flood in, because enough air could get into the ever changing volume of the tank and just allow too much in. It works on small stuff and with consistent fluids, just not waste oil burners. Takes more finessing hehe
Have a look at my big daddy burner
th-cam.com/video/NyVdosZ_VUs/w-d-xo.html
At 3:18 I explain the idea
Just curious. How does the pot stay attached underneath? I'm trying to figure out for my own build
I think I had a bolt bent into an L-shape in the back, into which the cast short handle fit and on the long handle was a similar but adjustable bolt to latch it into. Set the pan in place, twist it and that's it. Very susceptible to overflow with oil as it was not sealed to the brake disc.
Can you please talk more about your "pipe thru the middle" I thought I had an original al thought here I plan to do this, attach a fan on one side, and ducting on the other, forcing hot air thru a wall or into anywhere I desire. I also hope to run copper coil(s) inside vessel with external connections for circulating a closed water loop, that will later be used for a shower. How were holes in side and top cut? Welded?
Since this was more of a proof of concept, everything was done quite crudely. I did have a small plasma cutter to do the holes, literally ALL of them. Just eyeballed and started cutting. The pipe through the middle is just there to allow the massive flame to "lick it" and help disperse the hotspot as well as move air through said pipe. It is indeed welded all the way around.
Do you think a 55 gallon metal drum with a steel pan in the bottom of it and a drip system feeding work ok for outside burning only of trash??
You want to make a garbage incinerator? I found the best way for that is indeed a metal drum with at least 2cm holes (1 inch or more) in 9cm or 1/2ft increments. I actually cut the bottom of mine, so I just take the shell off, scoop the remains up or rake them flat (if there is no plastic or metal left) you can move the shell somewhere else. For added effect I just throw oil on it so the garbage is soaked in it. If you have a reversible vacuum cleaner, they make great blowers to really crank up the heat, by blowing into one of the bottom holes be warned though that those drums will deform even "melt" when you add extra heat with oil and air and the air will throw sparks out of the top and sides. An enclosed version is a large propane tank with an air tube down the center and stops under the (dome). The chimney is welded to the outside shell. Put garbage around the inside, add oil, light her up, close the lid, add air and jazam, only metal will be left, not even ash :P
@@oBseSsIoNPC awesome advice!! I will look into that!! Thanks a bunch!!!
@@oBseSsIoNPC I’m really just wanting to burn personal and private documents and shredded papers...I have several trash bags full! Do you think that would still work good?
@@outdoorzone If you want to burn paper to a tiny pile of ash, a burning barrel will work, but paper shreds tend to fly away unless you put a fine metal grate over the top. Sometimes if the agitation of air is insufficient the paper will burn into a pile and the ash becomes a barrier for paper inside the pile and it wont even burn. (To avoid this, you can try just adding holes from the bottom to the lower third of the barrel. The draft rushing into the holes will agitate the paper. It is by far the quickest thing to build. Old barrel, cut some holes, grab an old stove drying rack, viola. Add paper, add oil (doesn't take much) light it up. NEVER use gasoline. When you add paper, layer it with oil, soak a layer, more paper, soak and so on. A liter of oil for a 55gal barrel is more than enough. If you use diesel, you can use a third of that.
Alternatively, just use a paper shredder with crimp and dispose of the shred in different bags (mixing shreds) :)
@@oBseSsIoNPC Excellent thats exactly what I want!!! Thank you very much!!! Gonna start burning soon!!!!
You need holes in the burn bowl,, below the brake disc
Hola amigo me pareció fantástico tu invento se podrá poner un serpentin dentro para calentar agua?saludos desde el Sur de Chile
you certainly can add a coil to the inside for heating water. My big burner is more suitable for this however, due to the much better heat distribution and vortex effect.
Excellent
How large of area are you heating?
This was a one car garage.
Hi I'm a huge fan of you channel I've been wanting to make a oil furnace as a charcoal furnace coast way to much to use weekly. I'm very confused on how the furnace works. Does it just run of oil dripping on to a open flame with a consistent and strong air flow?
I recommend you watching the update video in the description box. Basically, the oil fumes is what you want to achieve through heat and burn them off "slowly" with JUST ENOUGH air for a clean burn. In a drip oil burner, you wont achieve very high temperatures, but the consumption is quite low (makes sense) and it is easy to build.
Now, the burner pan is basically ALWAYS full with oil and the airflow regulates the speed of the burn.
Thanks alot:)
very nice, one constructive criticism, the smell of burning engine oil is yuk!
You shouldn't have any smoke. You need more air in the burn tube or use a slotted rotor which seems to work better than just a plate. Also your holes in the burn tube should be smaller, and more of them, which mixes better and makes a more complete burn. If your system is still smoking it's not running clean. You should never have to clean out you pipes if you build it right. Do yourself a favor and watch other videos here to see the ones that have a slotted rotor under the burn tube and you'll see what I mean. Good luck!
Hello there! Great burner you got there! I'm planning to go make myself one, allready looking for some materials and got some sort of water pressure tank which is a little bit bigger then yours. I also found a nice pan i thought, but I just learned a cast steel pan doesn't get hot fast enough.
My question: why a not vented brake disk instead of a vented disk, so you dont have to drill holes? Is it because it cools down too fast?
Thanks!
Thanks mate! The cast steel pan may take a while longer to heat up, but it will get you the best overall performance AND will NEVER burn through. Any other pan will loose it's bottom or will just not aid with an established burn.
I will continue using heavy pans for sure. Also, when you do an intermediate cleanup, the cast steel retains a lot more heat and will fire RIGHT UP again.
Thanks for answering! So a steel pan is actually perfect for long burns. I want to use my heater as a hot tub heater so needs longer burning.
How about the brake disk? Why non vented?
11glenktm11 A vented disk allows air flow you cannot control. The most important thing about the actual burn, is to control the primary air flow (holes closest to the fuel). The secondary holes are important also, but basically just control the temperature and condition of the burn (the more holes the better). I am going to implement a large shut off valve on my next burner, to adjust air flow into the fuel chamber.
ObsessionPC So I think I got my stuff together to start making my own burner. I saw you numered some sizes of the holes you made. What diameter pipe do you use, the lower and upper? And the lenght of the lower pipe? I got mine now at about 20cm, or 8 inch for you ;), but think it is too long.. Can't wait to test and run my own!
11glenktm11 the pipe is the same all the way around not quite a 4 inch diameter. the lower pipe is about 4 1/4 inches long, which should be 6 inches instead. I find length of the mix pipe should be 50% over it's diameter.
You don’t need holes in the pipe you need holes in the brake disk it’ll get a lot hotter like cherry hot that pipe will glow
Hi, wouldn't a vented brake disc be better for this?
right up to the point where you have no control over the air, as well as oil splashing out of the holes, when water (like coolant) might have gotten into the system. I tried it and it did not work for me. Beside, with only a few holes over the flames, you can regulate the heat output much better. You don't want too much air or she smokes a ton.
@@oBseSsIoNPC thanks for the reply. That might explain why my unit is throwing thick black smoke. I'll close off the rotor holes and see if I get any significant changes. I thought maybe my unit was starving of air because when i slide the pot and open a gap between the top of the pot and rotor it roars and heats up quicker. The smoke I'm producing is substantial though.
his oil looked clean you need used oil .?
that part is hydraulic oil, it looks clean in a small stream/drip.
Does the pipe comin out the top go all the way through the tank? Up and down to the burner?
The pipe is welded to the top of the tank only.
What the pipes coming out of the front and that back? Like level with the floor? Thanks for the quick answer Sir.
the pipe through the middle is just eye balled in place and there to catch more heat, I usually have a fan blowing air through it, making the heating more efficient (+surface)
So it goes all the way through, just one solid pipe? Thanks, again
Thanks for that explanation at the end, for the back fire, too much oil or not enough air ? Great Video
Too much oil and not enough of a draft. The exhaust is too small for the max that the burner can put out.
I meant the "COMBUSTION CHAMBER ITSELF" pipe size, which is welded to the Rotor? (Not the Fuel Feed Tube) An the "FLUE SIZE", or Stove Pipe Chimney Pipe SIZE? THANKS
+BWWGL9 oh, it is a 4inch steel pipe. Preferably, the transition pipe between the rotor and vessel above should be bigger. If I had a larger pipe at hand, I would have installed a 6inch at least. The steps in the rotor mess with the air flow too much. The chimney is the same size pipe, 4 inch.
how good is it for your lungs ?
When the burner is running, I do not smell anything, nor does the Co-sensor pick up anything. The draft is good enough to pull fresh air from outside. The only times it thickens the air, is when I had too much oil in and it backfires (no danger). You cannot smell it.
Great vid ... well done
+TheFrameoff Thank you! I will be posting the updated and much improved version hopefully this weekend!
What SIZE Pipe did you use for your Combustion Chamber? What Size Pipe for the FLUE ?
+BWWGL9 it is 1/2 inch steel pipe, the copper tube is 1/2 down to 1/4,
i have built just about the same burner. Smokes too much to use in my shop.
Because air is coming back out of the secondary holes?
I am starting a new project that uses forced air and the original design is amazing, burning with blue flames.
This drip oil burner is not bad, but it is sensitive.
ObsessionPC
I’m
Great, well done
thx mate!
Yes
And the smell ?? Holly cow !!!
Flammer😮
hii, just tell me the truth,
is the beginning of the oil burning is like stinky and black ? surely right ? because it is not hot enough.. i see no growing red metal at the beginning.. and this method.. the suction is not strong enough to prevent the unburn gas into the holes below.. at in video at around 4 mins..
you said clean.. i believe it is not that clean.
The startup is dirty as can be. Once the burner is running "hot" the exhaust is as clean as it gets for a natural draft burner, which has noticeable but not obnoxious exhaust. This burner is VERY tricky to adjust, due to the size and ever changing draft.
ic. thanks for the truth. appreciate it. so, with a little bit of blower it will be much better ? not hair dryer.. it consumes to much to run full time.
Oil doesn't flashback.
i want to make one but also i dont want to die, plus its only like 50 Fahrenheit mid December here is southern California so to die just because i don't like wearing sweaters.....
I do prefer my new design of a heater that is based on forced air, it takes a lot less maintenance and care and is very safe when it comes to burning, spills etc.
The advantage to this particular heater in the video is the fact that it runs on gravity and no electricity at all. It is a good little heater for sure.
Always have a carbon monoxide alarm nearby!
you have to many air holes
*not enough (secondary)
LMFAO @ 14:50 :D
RIGHT! only too bad the audio went to shit there. When too much oil burns too quickly and too hot and the exhaust can't take it...just stay cool and watch it take off like a V2 version 1.0
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
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