It's debatable if you need a hammer at all when building with a grade of timber that low. Just push the nails in by hand. Seven annual rings for a spruce 2x4 must be some kind of record.
Just a tip for your mate with tennis elbow from the former badminton coach of GB. Place a sellotape ligature around the fattest part of your forearm whilst working. Take 400 mg Ibuprofen 3 times daily. Freeze pack on elbow for 11 minutes then work it until pain return 3 cycles repeat 3 times daily. Cuuuured me in 2 weeks and has never returned. Good luck
"Had" a leaky building problem in NZ? We still very much have many leaky buildings here. The untreated timber was only part of the problem. Still plenty of cracked Hardie Tex, and direct fixed Titan board in our country sadly. H1.2 treated timber merely delays the problem, it doesn't solve it. Love your work. Keep up the great jobs and tool reviews 👍
When a man's got a hammer in his hand or on his person for 8 to 12 hours a day he gets attached to it 😂. A few little improvements can make a big difference over time
Got an early Christmas card from my grandma, she wished me well and expressed her concerns the M1 hammer's weight distribution wasn't ideal for fine joinery.
Why am i watching the this video, i dont even need a hammer, ive never been interested in hammers or carpentry/construction whatsoever. But i have to respect his passion for the things.
I can’t stress enough just how much I love your content! Like I’m not even a regular woodworker and even less a builder but still everything you do in your videos and the way you edit and film just makes it so fascinating and overall just fun to watch. Thanks!
I’ve had the m1 for about 2 years now. I broke a claw clean off using it to bust a stubborn wedge off of a form with another hammer (my fault totally). Martinez sent me a brand new head 3 days later. Absolutely love it and their customer service.
The swelling on the handle is called a fawns foot on an axe, and like Richard said means you don't have to grip so hard coz you're not worried about flinging across the room. So less vibration travels to your arm or dodgy elbow in my case
I sanded down my wood framing hammer to create a more pronounced fawns foot. Specific to my hand anyway so I can feel where the end is and get more of a swing.
An old framer taught me to keep my thumb off the back of the handle and it has fixed any issues I had from swinging a hammer. It was hard to break the habit and keep control, but after a while, it took. Great channel!
I did the same thing when I first started helped me be a bit more stable when first starting out but once got more confident I stopped as it's more natural doesn't wear your hand out
I believe what your referring to is also called a power grip. It makes a big difference but most people don't use it. As an ironworker I have to lol, you don't want your thumb absorbing the force from smashing #6 + rebar
Speaking as a stonemason who has shaped his share of stones, I can confirm this. Always hold your hammer (5 pound sledge...) in a full grip, keep your thumb off the back. Your hand, wrist and arm are going to thank you for it.
I swung a 14 oz titanium head, wood handled Stiletto for 8 years and just switched to the Tibone 3 because I was tired of replacing the handles. The Tibone has been amazing so far and In my opinion it is the best framing hammer. The only draw back that I can see is that you will either have to replace the whole hammer or make your own replacement handle once it wears out.
I use the stiletto mini 14. Have had it for a couple of years now and would never go back to steel. Bought it after hand nailing weather boards on a house. Got half way through the job and started getting the tennis elbow. Second half of the house went with no aches or pains (except for the cost of the stiletto ) worth every cent and will change your life
Just got given my uncle-in-laws estwing 20oz last week when my aunty passed and left it to me. He was a builder in NZ and had it for 2decades of a 40yr building career. Will treasure it in my hammer collection.
@C W you're right and it's no joy being harangued by some young gun insisting building can't be done without power tools. All in spite of virtually everything being done by hand throughout past millennia. Nail guns are a recent luxury and while they're certainly a bonus in many ways, they're also far more cumbersome than the hammer everyone still carries (Oddly out of easy reach on their belts). We all get aches and pains, but thankfully most of us shrug them off without a word.
After about ten years of use, I'm on the second wooden handle of my Stiletto 14oz Ti hammer and I expect it to last for another three handles easily. The replacement handles are about $15US. At some point I might send it in or have a local machinist re-waffle the head for me (I don't have the tools to do it properly). The classic Stiletto 14oz wooden handle is an heirloom tool. A new handle can always be made out of stock material by a carpenter if Stiletto handles ever become unavailable. There are no proprietary fixings that could wear out or become unavailable (requiring a machinist to service a hammer) like some of the new fancy designs. I do use a pry-bar and a steel-plastic handle hammer for demolition work. I take care of my Stiletto because it has taken care of me. I used to build log homes. If you do log or timber building then I recommend something like a 24oz Death Stick. I could move a big log with a blow from that hammer that a 14oz Ti hammer could never do. The Death Stick was a bad-ass hammer when I was younger.
From someone who sold hammers at a real tool store for years the titanium hammers when they first came out had a lot of issues with snapping the puller claws, titanium has great striking force but brittle when it comes to torque. In later designs most of the companies shortened the claws to make them more durable.
As a non framer..... my 20 ounce eastwing is my favorite all around hammer.... its all metal, smooth head.... i use it for fabricating sheet metal, demo-ing hvac systems and i can drive any nails needed.... though I know I'd use a different hammer if I was a framer
Same... Eastwing my whole life, from formworking, through to carpentry. I guess its comes down to what you start with and get used to. Plus!! A hammer is really only as good as the person using it!!
So when the base of your hammer keeps getting stuck in your rear loop. Why not just turn the claws the opposite way when putting the hammer back. I mean, you're only going to fight it out one way depending on right or left handed and which direction the claws are when it's placed
MY experience with hammers professionally has been as follows. 22oz Stanley, Stilletto 15oz wood handle, then the M1. M1 is hands down my favorite hammer. Additionally, I switched to the Diamondback Tool Belt with the hammer holster. I highly recommend that system for the trades. Make the hammer so convenient. As you pointed out, no fishing behind you looking for the loop or struggling to get it from the loop.
Even the best hammer has cons. This is the first review I’ve heard the M1’s cons addressed, so thank you. You’re a unbiased honest individual. While I hate getting snagged on the belt, the most important thing to me is handle curvature and grip. I only use my pinky and ring finger to grip a hammer, allowing the upper 3/4 of the hammer to pendulum. Therefore I want a curve at the end of the handle, and the stickier the better.
I am a big fan of wooden handles. 68 now and been swinging hammers for more than 60 years. (Those earliest years,,, much or often to my father's dismay.) I have swung them all except for the newest crop. Sometime when I was about your age I used a fiberglass handle for years,, and later an Estwing steel,, and at some point my hands grew seriously painful. Like wrapped and protected and learning to swing with my left hand. Until about a year later my left had began 'talking' to me. The shift to the right foot for my claw hammer did not sound like the way to go,, (Could'nt hit shit with it,, except the other foot trying to hold the nails.) Went back to an ash wooden handle,, long 16 or 17 inch,,, never had a problem since. A 'good' steel handle ,, you hit the nail,, the hammer hits your hand equally at the other end. A wooden handle? you hit the nail,, and the reflected whack on the end you are holding is dissipated. Wooden handles are getting hard to find,, every body just wants you to buy a new hammer. All of my hammers are older than you are. Does the titanium absorb or reflect the vibration? You implied that it reflects the vibration. Get rid of it unless you want some very, very painful hands.
my thoughts as well, I hated the estwing with a passion. I like the stiletto with the curved handle the most. First got stollen and the second my dad grabbed and never brought back lol
I use the German carpenter's hammer, the one with the long tip. That's why it's there so that you can lever it better, e.g .: Loosen the roof battens. It has a square head, so you get better in corners. It also has a nail holder with magnets and the notch at the front for pulling or prying nails, again using the long tip.
Stiletto mini 14. Used a 22oz estwing til I started driving pole barn spikes over head. Now I use it as a back scratcher, has that extra long handle it’s great for getting that itch In the dead center of your back.
I use an Estwing 16 oz straight claw framing hammer i bought in 1981 to start a roofing job with my brother. Wore the waffling off the face of the head , still use it everyday .
My guess is the wooden handled Vaughn has a shallow claw to discourage you from pulling anything but the smallest nails. You will eventually break your wooden handle if you use it to pull larger nails, and they're not inexpensive to replace. I'm retired now but my go-to for 35 years was a 20oz. Vaughn 999, first with a wooden handle, later adopted fiberglass handled one when they became available for the reason stated above.
I'm 36 and use a Vaughan 999 primarily. They're not often in shops though readily available online & the q.c. is good enough to buy sight unseen. If I'm doing heavier framing I'll often step up to the 19 or 23 oz. Cali framers also from vaughan with a 17"-18" handle. The handles on the Calis' are a more oblong oval shape with significantly more mass running parallel to the head @ the eye and will take more abuse than the 999. They're outstanding nailing below the waist as well as face nailing. Unfortunately their wide and shallow protruding faces are often more awkward in toe nailing and more precise/awkward situations. The 999 sees the Lions share of my use and occasionally when I need a bit more power/durability I'll jump to one of the cali framers. At the cost of the Martinez I can buy 1-smooth face 999, 1- milled face 999, 1-Cali framer, 1-16oz. Trim hammer, and two replacement handles for each.
The M1 is a very different hammer to swing and takes time to adjust to the mass at the end of the hammer. Keep in mind it's a 15 oz framing hammer that would be used where you would usually be using a 22oz to 25oz framing hammer. The theory is that they can do more with less weight since the mass is moved to the end of hammer. This makes the energy used to swing the hammer more efficient. I love that Mark Martinez is still working hard to innovate even after his creation of Stiletto hammer. It's an awesome hammer but I've always come back to my vintage Bob Hart hammers personally. Have to take car of them now though as they are getting harder and harder to find. Something about the classic axe handle and polished head just do something for me.
i knew when i saw the first video reviewing the m1 that you should’ve got the m4. the owner of martinez tools, mark even said himself if he were to buy one he would get an m4. much lighter and only 2” shorter which is perfect but the m4 is plenty of hammer to do framing but light enough to swing all day and do finish work
I love my Martinez M1!!! I admit it is a lot of money to drop on a hammer but after my elbow pain disappeared I can justify the cost. I will eventually buy an m4 for installation of windows, roofing, and smaller stuff.
28 oz estwing inherited from my old man,it was well used when he died 25 years ago,i am 62 now, and it probably cost 10 bucks at the time and made the two of us a quarter mil combined probably
i lost my 28oz, but I'm low-key thankfully i lost it. It could drive nails like crazy, but if you need to flick something or just nudge/tap something it would absolutely kill your wrist. I stayed w/ Estwing though and i bought one if their framing hammers, haven't used it yet but my trade doesn't require hammers to often but it's a tool you gotta have.
I started framing with a Stanley all steel 19oz framing hammer. I only used it for a short while, and then dedicated it to demolition only. Then I went to a Craftsman 20 oz fiberglass handle hammer, but someone swiped it. Then I was given a Hart hickory-handled framer by my father-in-law. Ever since then I have liked hickory handles the best, especially the axe-style ones that are curved at the bottom. After breaking the handle on the Hart, I got a Husky 22 ounce framer with a hickory handle and a lifetime warranty. Couple years later, our crew got a special deal on some Stiletto 14oz titanium hammers with hickory handles, but the handles on them didn’t last a month for any of us. Really nice for driving nails, though! DeWalt came out with some framing hammers in about 2010, I think - I got ahold of their 17 oz hickory-handled framer with a waffle face, and I’ve really liked it a lot. Only thing is it doesn’t have a nail set. Not too pricey, (I think I paid around $26 USD for it), the handle is quite long, and really strong, even though it’s not too thick, and it carries a lifetime warranty. Comes with a nice grippy rubberized coating on it, but that rubs off over time. So I got some pistol grip tape and wrapped the handle. Works really nice!
Estwing 20oz straight claw. The all rounder. Used a London pattern head shape one from an old school carpenter last year and that was really different but nice!
If someone were just getting into general carpentry work and construction (bar maybe just framing or concrete) I'd tell them to get an Estwing 20oz all day. Great balance and great for all around work. Or if they are a newbie framer, the Estwing 19oz Ultra framer. Great hammers for the money.
waffle face head for tenderising your steaks for the afterwork bbq, dude these days I hardly ever use my hammer so not really too fussed what it is, still carry a 20ounce estwing that I've owned since 86
My framing hammer has been a 15oz lowes exclusive kobalt for about 6 years. I have replaced it twice cuz I can go to Lowe's and swap a broken one. Side prying bent it, and the grip slid off. Both of those issues have been fixed (thicker neck, bolted handle) in the design and I've had the same one for 4 years. That's an insane lifespan for a framing hammer. Light, invincible, cheap, nice warranty (though idk if it's still made)
I bought the steel Hart hammer from Home Depot here in the US. It is the cheap cousin to the Martinez. The side nail puller is PHENOMENAL! So much easier than the regular. Not a replacement by any means but it makes things much easier. It is heavy though and the steel handle does shock the arm a bit. Good demo hammer like the Martinez but the brand has been sold since then and quality has gone way down. Sad. My framing hammer is an old titanium Dalluge that was my Grandfather's. Huge strike face but minimal weight. I had to put a new wood handle on it and carve some grips into it. Really nice hammer. I use the Hart for demo/concrete work and the Dalluge for framing so that the nice titanium head stays nice. I think having two hammers is just a practical thing to do. Really appreciate the review.
Hello! so this is the first time I've seen a vid of yours and it was great! one thing I did notice at the end is the "thumb grip" I learned early on as a blacksmith that there is a nerve that runs from your thumb all the way up to your shoulder and neck. using a hammer with vibration resistant material will help, but using your thumb on the back of your hammer like that can cause nerve damage over time.
I'm currently using the Milwaukee 28 oz framing hammer for my day job 💯 I like the material the handle is made from, and how efficient the magnetic nail driver is.
So I’ve had a m1 for 3 years now, I love the thing, the straight handle is definitely the way to go, I had the axe handle at first (like yours), and it definitely catches on the hammer loop more, and just doesn’t feel quite as nice on the hammer as the straight handle does. Also it’s like $50 bucks for the m4 head, and I think you’d really love your hammer with a m4 head on it, it’s next level for balance and finesse.
For 40 years I've tried a lot of hammers. Always come back to 20 oz. Estwing for general use and 19 0z wooden handle Vaughn for hand framing. I made finger notches in the handle for grip
I'm old school and still using my estwing for last 23 years 16oz and got my 20oz about 15years ago.. Got it when I was 20 and its lasted longer then any relationship in my life. There has been a few other hammers but when she's reliable you always go back to her even if she's a little hard on your body...
I’ve only been in the trade for 3 years, just out of curiosity how long have you been doing it? How does your elbow feel? Genuine questions, I promise. I don’t know very many people outside of the company I work with and the men I work with have pretty expensive hammers.
@@-curran2163 Been in construction for about 18 years. I just use a Stanley hammer that cost about 15 quid, and honestly, my elbow is fine! I actually have problems with my non-hammer hand and wrist. I think it's because I use that hand to grip and hold stuff in place while I hammer/screw it.
Don’t know if anyone has mentioned this, but I noticed all you guys swing your hammer with your thumb running parallel with the handle, point up to the head. A blacksmith taught me that this is wrong, and can lead to wrist and elbow pain, especially with the 1kg+ hammers they use. The correct hammer grip is where you wrap your thumb around the handle, like you are gripping a bat. Try it out and see how it feels. Cheers guys, phil
Honestly I think the M-1 was tweaked for production framers, so yeah the optimum balance and blow would be for working below your waist rolling joists framing walls etc.
I’ve been using the Estwing 14oz 406mm AL-Pro Aluminium Claw Smooth Face Hammer for about 6 months I’m in the Reno building industry in Australia. I’ve loved using this hammer minimal vibration and super light
I think you have said it in a nutshell it’s all about how it affects you’re wrist and or joints because when you’re doing this 15-20 yrs from now that’s when you’re going to look back and hope you made the right decision
I would still have a hard time telling a young guy he NEEDS to invest in titanium in the first month of working. Every young guy needs to learn with what he can afford at the time and then appreciate what he invests in later. But I can't agree enough, joints and we'll being aren't focussed on enough in the industry.
Slippery wooden handles is an easy solution, strip off the finish with a cabinet scraper and then apply boiled linseed oil for a much cleaner feel and grip.
Yes sir. I’ve gone through every kind of hammer and just keep going back to my wood handled stiletto. Just having less weight on your pouch is huge after a 9-10 hr day.
My biggest concern for the wooden handled hammers is if it will last using it for demolition, as i use my steel hammer for demo all the time not having to worry about it getting chipped or broken.
@@bh2347 I do the same thing. First handle only lasted for a week. After that, I use nail puller for the de-nail job. The second one is still going strong after few years.
My Father taught me 55 years ago with a wooden handle to take a hand saw and rake it back and forth. That will keep it grippy. It’s worked for me for over 50 years of framing
I have found that sanding off the factory finish and coating the handle with Penofin oil finish or a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil greatly improves the grip of wooden handles for all tools, especially hammer handles. In my opinion, they should not require great effort to hold, but be smooth enough to easily adjust ones grip. The beeswax and linseed oil is best applied hot. It absorbs into the wood and steel of tools, providing rust protection and a kind of lubrication for the metal, and provides great long lasting protection for the wood. It was taught to me by an old saw sharpener. Its also great on shovels. He said it was best if you could dip the entire tool in the hot mixture. He kept a tall thin steel barrel over a burner in the shop that was big enough to dip hand saws, and wide enough to take a shovel (half a shovel at a time). He also had a pot for band saw and circular saw blades. I never made more than a half gallon at a time, so I just tried to do it on a hot day and painted the hot mixture on with a paint brush. I don't remember the exact proportions, but I seem to remember 2 to 3 parts linseed oil to 1 part beeswax. The consistency is the most important part. It should be thin enough to absorb into the wood without just congealing on the surface when hot. You can use more beeswax if you are able to dip the entire tool in the hot mixture. Wipe off excess, and let dry for a day or two.
Am about to coat my Stiletto 10oz. Ergonomically contoured the OEM handle and removed all the lacquer going from 40,80,120,220 to 400 grit sandpaper. Thank you for mentioning to warm up the materials. . I am thinking of using a heat gun to warm up the wood before and after the oil has been absorbed and wiped off to quicken absorption and drying.
@@GoCoyote "The most common mistake made when replacing a hickory handle is driving the handle into the hammer head so far that the bottom of the head cuts into the lacquered surface of the handle." - This is straight from stiletto's site
@@Technie87 Well it may be possible that they are actually still using lacquer, I suspect that they are using old language or incorrect terminology. Many people still refer to polyurethane finishes as lacquer, although they are very different. Because of the toxicity and flammability of the solvents used in lacquers, they require expensive air handling systems. Modern water based finishes are much cheaper, and lacquer, while a lovely finish, is more delicate and less durable than polyurethane. Lacquer allows the wood to breathe, so that is why it is used on many violins. My father used to dissolve amber into lacquer to French polish violins when I was kid. If they are using lacquer, the finish will not be a layer that can peel away from the wood, but will actually be a part of the wood, although there are also other finishes and preparations that will do the same. I really like the beeswax and linseed oil mix, but Penofin is a nice alternative.
I'm a weekend warrior only so I'm still using my cheapo 20oz Stanley that I've had for ever. A friend (who is a real carpenter) nicknamed my hammer "Lightning" after helping me on a job because he reckoned it never struck the same place twice :) Friends eh?
Richard, I got mine way back when Douglas manufactured this design. Awesome hammer. Regards to big D. That's Dallas, TX to the rest of the world. DeWaukee rules.
I’ve got the 10oz wood handle stiletto for trim and the 14oz for framing. I gave away my 15oz tibone because the wood handles are so much more comfortable to me. Wrist issues have pretty much disappeared. 👍
I been framing in Canada for over 30 years now, and always try new hammers that get out into the Canadian construction market,and the only two hammers that were worthy and use them for long periods of time were,the Estwing that was king 30 years ago and the titanium Stilleto that I been using for 10 years now,this is the best for winter and summer use
Hey mate. I don’t know how many people may have mention this but a pros of the Martinez is that you can change grip and head without buying a new hammer. You can just buy the smaller head or even a big heavier one. And the grip can be bought straight as well. Which wouldn’t grip your hammer loop.
I use Hart hammers for everything. 10oz wood hatchet handle for trim, 21oz wood hatchet for framing and 24oz metal hatchet for demo. I love the sound of the “sweet spot” ping from my framing hammer.
I do high rise concrete forming and a lot of guys that come from framing have stilettos and the head always come loose because we hit a lot metal objects. We don’t just nail nails into wood. I found the martinez m1 is way better. The replaceable heads are great and me and few others who have it will never switch. M1 also has different size heads and 2 different handle types. Great product.
Here in canada the estwing is really popular. The stiletto hammers are the best light weight hammers here. I use the 14oz stiletto and just treat the handle with good oil finishes.
I use the M4. Cost me a fortune, because import tax in the Netherland made it twice as expensive. But after a week of getting used to it, I will not go back to a Stanley ever again. Nice videos 🙂
I know this video is pretty old now but in '03 I started out swinging the Douglas 23oz framer for 7 years, I got out of building for 5 years n worked in a sawmill in those years. During my sawmill days all my tools and Occidental tool bags were stolen. I got back into pounding nails 6 years ago and had to start from scratch with building my tool arsenal back up. I found out that Douglas was no longer making the hammer that I loved so I found the Vaughn 16oz framer which I swung for the last 6 years until a few months ago I stumbled upon the Martinez M1. After weeks of contemplating spending $300 for a hammer I bit the bullet and for the past 2 months have been loving the M1, although I wish Mark would make a flat top milled face (not waffle face) framing head. I too did not really like the top heavy feel of the hammer after swinging the 16oz, but after about a week I would never go back. Now for the past couple weeks I've been contemplating on spending $300 for the Martinez "Red Headed Step Child" titanium speed square, which I probably will end up doing lol. I believe investing in quality tools that will last a long time and will make your money back 10 fold. 🤙
Love my 20 oz estwing curved claw once they have been used for years the handles really feel nice and the wear and tear looks awesome, I’ve never thought about going titanium but I’m thinking of giving it a try cheers for the content!
Honestly I’ve been using some no name wood handle old hammer for years and it feels great to me. I feel like if you’re shit with a hammer you could have a $500 hammer and still not be productive does anyone else agree or am I wrong
I use a 14oz stiletto wood handle and love it one benefit I didn’t think of before buying it is that I carry around my hammer a lot more than I use it and it’s a lot less weight in my belt
For wood handles: sand off the shiny, slippery varnish or lacquer or poly or whatever the heck the finish is. Sand to the bare wood, tune up the shape maybe, finish with 2 applications of boiled linseed oil for a very usable grip. When I switched from the Estwing framer to a wood-handled Hart I knew the Estwing was pretty much relegated to the worst demo jobs... Wood handles ever since.
totally agree! i sanded my vaughan california framer and apply linseed oil every so often and the grip is fantastic even in the wet! love the hickory handle
Couldn't agree more that timber hafts feel much better than rubber sleeved steel, but they tend to take damage and break too easily on site work. Breakages and the need for reliable tools were much the reason why so many of us switched from timber to steel hafted hammers. Stanley had Steelmaster with welded head that tended to break or Estwing with one piece forging. Estwing pretty much won.
@@gazpal Right tool for the job... Since I do more assembly than "disassembly", I don't mind having my wood-handled daily drivers for construction and some old steel- or fibreglass-handled bashers for demo. For some of us, the time replacing wood handles is nothing compared to the time (and life activities) lost to injured or worn out ligaments, tendons, and joints.
@@cbat09you're obviously not from the same generation of tradesmen as I. By all means always use the right tool for the job and always strive for that, but heading the lightweight hammer head route is the wrong direction, regardless of what the hammer shaft is made from. The hammer head does the work and it's weight drives the nail. More strikes using underweight hammers = more chance of wear and tear on your body. Example, 3" nail should take two - three strikes, not five. Five strikes on 500 nails = 2,500 hits versus 1,000 using the correct hammer for the job. The hammer head does the job without any need for undue effort, or wear and tear on the user.
I use a DeWalt 16'' 14oz steel framing hammer, and have used it pretty much my whole career so far (about 5 years). I like it, but I haven't tried it against many other hammers. I know I do appreciate it's lighter weight, though.
The wooden handle hammer looks like the handle still has the factory poly on it. Wooden handle needs to be sanded down, maybe charred followed by a sanding to expose the wood grain and finally some oil applied to the handle. Won't be slippery or callus producing, plus looks like buddy there wants to customize his hammer anyway. That would be the way to do just that.
I’ve got a TB 3 and I love it. I’ve only briefly used a Martinez so I can’t comment too much on it. I’d happily own both. The price is hefty but there’s a reason that so many framers use titanium. Shock absorption was the main reason I made the investment
I mean for a heavy hammer you can hold it higher than the grip to make precision and small hit. Even if its not made for it, it remove a lot of weight and strain on the wrist
@@ouisi7 That's funny, because I've never known a "career carpenter" who kept stopping in the middle of a job they're doing to record videos for kids like you to watch on TH-cam since you'll never swing a hammer yourself.
@Mike Smith Yep. Recalling the transition - during the late 70's/early 80's - in the UK from timber to steel hafted hammers, we first moved across to Stanley Steelmaster, but they tend to snap across the collar. A few of the lads had tripped over Estwing hammers and they steadily grew in popularity with most of us moving on to use them as they became more readily available. A lot of the young guys have little or no experience of house bashing solely using hand tools.
Thanks for the great information. It's pronounced "Da-loo-gi" by the way. The "g" is pronounced as the g in gate. I bought a Dalluge hammer last year and it actually tells you how to pronounce it on the packaging around the shaft.
Same, probably one of the beast all-round hammers. I got that one, and a 22 Oz one, the 22 is a bit heavy on the head, but it's meant for smashing the shit outta studs.
Good video. I see it was made 2 years ago and things have changed, which I am guessing you are aware of...but in case you did not know. They have a multitude of heads, 10 by last count. All heads fit on M1 & M4 handles and there is a Titanium framing head, which would definitely change the balance you were talking about. They also show 20 different grips on the Martinez website; all M1 &M4 compatible. The main difference is curved or straight handle...the other difference is a multitude of colors to choose from. I am sure that a straight handle will give you less hassles in grabbing and removing from your belt hook, but it is never as smooth as wood so although should be easier to remove, still won't be as smooth as your Vaughan. I saw a video where Mark Martinez had an M1 handle with an M4 head...this also makes for a more balanced hammer, and then he also showed an M4 handle with an M1 head, he said it was great for demo. For sure expensive for anyone not using one for a living, but if you do earn with a hammer, the many configurations between handle, grip and head is quite appealing.
Estwing 20s. When I first started roofing the industry was still nailing sheets on the roof. My left thumb loved kissing the hammer head. Especially on the laps. Took alot of practice and blood to learn how to get the nail in nicely without smashing my thumb and denting the sheet. It was for me better to have a heavy hammer
Greylynnjr. My father was a builder and I would help the Carpenters pitch roofs. I bought 3 estwing hammers and they all had legs. I stopped buying the estwing hammer until many years later. That hammer also grew legs and walked away. I then bought a Johnson hammer which wasn't much chop. All my tools went on holidays so I bought tools again. Haven't bought a hammer since all my tools went on holidays a few years ago. I think my tools are in self isolation somewhere probably another state. It's interesting the different hammers and their function. I know about stress I feel the titanium may have too much flex. Not sure the newer models. I always bought the 24 ounce. Although I screw everything so although there have been instances I needed a hammer, I used a Thor dead blow hammer and small Gympies. Milwaukee make not a bad hammer. I'm thinking I will get a steel hammer.
I slate a lot of roofs, I’ve been considering buying a stiletto or maybe a vaughn to replace a 20oz estwing . I want to get my hands on one before I spend £100 on a hammer. Being 19 and on pretty low wages as an apprentice it’s a big chunk of money to splash on a hammer
Treat the leather with respect and it'll serve you well. :) (90% discount is a gift) Every now and then seal the leather with beeswax then lightly rub it back with a bit of 0000 steel wool to enhance the grip, but try and avoid getting it wet because the leather will deteriorate fast if soaked.
Great video. I use a 14oz stiletto with long wooden handle and love it. It's beat up too. I don't baby it. The wooden handled options are half the price of the solid titanium ones as well. And $150 isnt that much of an investment for a quality tool you use everyday, especially when considering the longevity of your joints.
the intricacies of doing work using certain tools still amaze me until this very day. i myself have been in the industry for just 10 odd years now. but the new tools and machineries to assist our work is becoming very handy. essential even
3rd going on 4th year apprentice here… I use the dalluge titanium and just bought an M1! In my relatively brief experience, it seems like the dalluge is more suited for interior framing, finishing, etc. it’s also wonderfully light which makes it more comfortable to carry and use. I put hockey tape around the handle to deal with the grip problem, and used jb weld on the bolts that hold the handle on to keep them from gradually unscrewing. Lately I’ve been doing a lot of super heavy concrete work/demo, and the little dalluge just was too light to keep up, so I invested in the M1! I love hammers and seem to collect them, so I’ll prob end up with a stiletto or two in the future as well. Looking forward to trying out my M1 on the job! 😊🔨
@@maxmarcus6074 Dalluge by far ahahhahaha. No question. Do all the research about the M1 and hopefully youll come to the conclusion its a decent hammer but not the best and super overpriced. Its more a collectors item. Steel head instead of titanium head has more vibration. Titanium handle vs hickory handle has more vibration. 907 grams... Thats over 1 lbs it weighs. Ill stick with a 14 oz stiletto or dalluge that weighs about 600g if you shave the wood a hair and color your handle how u want it.
12:00 This is why the timber is pink
It's interesting reading the titanium vs steel discussion! Cheers for watching.
It's debatable if you need a hammer at all when building with a grade of timber that low. Just push the nails in by hand. Seven annual rings for a spruce 2x4 must be some kind of record.
Just a tip for your mate with tennis elbow from the former badminton coach of GB. Place a sellotape ligature around the fattest part of your forearm whilst working. Take 400 mg Ibuprofen 3 times daily. Freeze pack on elbow for 11 minutes then work it until pain return 3 cycles repeat 3 times daily. Cuuuured me in 2 weeks and has never returned. Good luck
We have a pink one in California and it's the first time I've seen it in the USA
Lol i was gonna say why is all the lumber pink 👍
"Had" a leaky building problem in NZ? We still very much have many leaky buildings here. The untreated timber was only part of the problem. Still plenty of cracked Hardie Tex, and direct fixed Titan board in our country sadly. H1.2 treated timber merely delays the problem, it doesn't solve it.
Love your work. Keep up the great jobs and tool reviews 👍
Sounds like you had a pretty special and intimate relationship with this hammer
When a man's got a hammer in his hand or on his person for 8 to 12 hours a day he gets attached to it 😂. A few little improvements can make a big difference over time
Underrated comment
This one took me a minute hahaha
OMG... the hammer pulled you off?!
@@trevrockrock16 Piss off, ghost
My favorite hammer is the one I can find when I need it.
Or the free one you find, right after someone steals your hammer.
CafeNightster that’s a good one too 👍🏼
Ya, and my Martinez is always in my loop in my pouch.
My dad and I do handyman work, he has more than 10 hammers we scatter across the remodel so one is always in sight
@@TelephonePlays sounds efficient... if only they had a way you could be organized and carry tools around.
Got an early Christmas card from my grandma, she wished me well and expressed her concerns the M1 hammer's weight distribution wasn't ideal for fine joinery.
Why am i watching the this video, i dont even need a hammer, ive never been interested in hammers or carpentry/construction whatsoever. But i have to respect his passion for the things.
HAA haa , 🤣 same here , I have time for this??? I use a hammer to put the paint lid on once every 5 years
yep same, good video though
I can’t stress enough just how much I love your content! Like I’m not even a regular woodworker and even less a builder but still everything you do in your videos and the way you edit and film just makes it so fascinating and overall just fun to watch. Thanks!
I’ve had the m1 for about 2 years now. I broke a claw clean off using it to bust a stubborn wedge off of a form with another hammer (my fault totally). Martinez sent me a brand new head 3 days later. Absolutely love it and their customer service.
Straight or curved handle? Smooth or waffles hammer face?
The swelling on the handle is called a fawns foot on an axe, and like Richard said means you don't have to grip so hard coz you're not worried about flinging across the room. So less vibration travels to your arm or dodgy elbow in my case
I sanded down my wood framing hammer to create a more pronounced fawns foot. Specific to my hand anyway so I can feel where the end is and get more of a swing.
Or hatchet handle
An old framer taught me to keep my thumb off the back of the handle and it has fixed any issues I had from swinging a hammer. It was hard to break the habit and keep control, but after a while, it took. Great channel!
I did the same thing when I first started helped me be a bit more stable when first starting out but once got more confident I stopped as it's more natural doesn't wear your hand out
I believe what your referring to is also called a power grip. It makes a big difference but most people don't use it. As an ironworker I have to lol, you don't want your thumb absorbing the force from smashing #6 + rebar
Speaking as a stonemason who has shaped his share of stones, I can confirm this. Always hold your hammer (5 pound sledge...) in a full grip, keep your thumb off the back. Your hand, wrist and arm are going to thank you for it.
I’ve never swung a hammer with my thumb on the back. It’s always been more comfortable to me to just grip it like I’m making a fist.
I swung a 14 oz titanium head, wood handled Stiletto for 8 years and just switched to the Tibone 3 because I was tired of replacing the handles. The Tibone has been amazing so far and In my opinion it is the best framing hammer. The only draw back that I can see is that you will either have to replace the whole hammer or make your own replacement handle once it wears out.
I use the stiletto mini 14. Have had it for a couple of years now and would never go back to steel. Bought it after hand nailing weather boards on a house. Got half way through the job and started getting the tennis elbow. Second half of the house went with no aches or pains (except for the cost of the stiletto ) worth every cent and will change your life
Been using my late father-in-law’s 20oz Estwing for the last 5 years and he had it for a couple of decades before he passed 👍
Just got given my uncle-in-laws estwing 20oz last week when my aunty passed and left it to me. He was a builder in NZ and had it for 2decades of a 40yr building career. Will treasure it in my hammer collection.
East wings a great hammer but swing one for 40 hours a day for years and you won’t have an arm left.
That's awesome, those hammers are bulletproof!
@C W you're right and it's no joy being harangued by some young gun insisting building can't be done without power tools. All in spite of virtually everything being done by hand throughout past millennia. Nail guns are a recent luxury and while they're certainly a bonus in many ways, they're also far more cumbersome than the hammer everyone still carries (Oddly out of easy reach on their belts). We all get aches and pains, but thankfully most of us shrug them off without a word.
@@alanshealy3061 Especially if you're working those 40 hour days...those are some long days, to be sure...
After about ten years of use, I'm on the second wooden handle of my Stiletto 14oz Ti hammer and I expect it to last for another three handles easily. The replacement handles are about $15US. At some point I might send it in or have a local machinist re-waffle the head for me (I don't have the tools to do it properly).
The classic Stiletto 14oz wooden handle is an heirloom tool. A new handle can always be made out of stock material by a carpenter if Stiletto handles ever become unavailable. There are no proprietary fixings that could wear out or become unavailable (requiring a machinist to service a hammer) like some of the new fancy designs.
I do use a pry-bar and a steel-plastic handle hammer for demolition work. I take care of my Stiletto because it has taken care of me.
I used to build log homes. If you do log or timber building then I recommend something like a 24oz Death Stick. I could move a big log with a blow from that hammer that a 14oz Ti hammer could never do. The Death Stick was a bad-ass hammer when I was younger.
Nathan Sharp “You don’t want to sell me death sticks” (sorry that’s a Star Wars reference I couldn’t resist :D )
Still have my original death stick. 22 years old and I named it "the general". Smooth as an Estwing.
Dead on still makes them
From someone who sold hammers at a real tool store for years the titanium hammers when they first came out had a lot of issues with snapping the puller claws, titanium has great striking force but brittle when it comes to torque. In later designs most of the companies shortened the claws to make them more durable.
Nice.
As a non framer..... my 20 ounce eastwing is my favorite all around hammer.... its all metal, smooth head.... i use it for fabricating sheet metal, demo-ing hvac systems and i can drive any nails needed.... though I know I'd use a different hammer if I was a framer
Same... Eastwing my whole life, from formworking, through to carpentry. I guess its comes down to what you start with and get used to.
Plus!! A hammer is really only as good as the person using it!!
Everybody has to learn to hammer
I read eastwing and my right elbow and wrist started to ache lol
I've tried a few steel hammers during my forming career but always got disappointed. Estwing is the best for that job. I love my 30oz.
So when the base of your hammer keeps getting stuck in your rear loop. Why not just turn the claws the opposite way when putting the hammer back. I mean, you're only going to fight it out one way depending on right or left handed and which direction the claws are when it's placed
I'm a carpenter Apprentice and I bought the blue east wing hammer at the start of my apprenticeship and 2 year in I love it
So am i! My old boss bought me a 20oz estwing and i need a 24oz one so bad haha
MY experience with hammers professionally has been as follows. 22oz Stanley, Stilletto 15oz wood handle, then the M1. M1 is hands down my favorite hammer.
Additionally, I switched to the Diamondback Tool Belt with the hammer holster. I highly recommend that system for the trades. Make the hammer so convenient. As you pointed out, no fishing behind you looking for the loop or struggling to get it from the loop.
$254!! For that money I’d expect it to knock the nails in while I watch!! Nice hammer though!
For those of us with elbow problems its worth it. a $250 hammer saved me a couple thousand dollar surgery
@@jakerrush for that amount of money you can go for a nail gun. No elbow problem.
@@gugl4106 didnt know you could knock out framing with a nail gun...
Gugl Still need to hand nail and pull nails so elbow problems still can happen often.
Gareth Ryder that’s what apprentices/labourers are for
Even the best hammer has cons. This is the first review I’ve heard the M1’s cons addressed, so thank you. You’re a unbiased honest individual.
While I hate getting snagged on the belt, the most important thing to me is handle curvature and grip. I only use my pinky and ring finger to grip a hammer, allowing the upper 3/4 of the hammer to pendulum. Therefore I want a curve at the end of the handle, and the stickier the better.
Estwing, swinging her 18 years now. Treat the face every so often to smooth it out and she never says no to some moist WD40.
$260 for a hammer, or $30 for one that causes me to lose mobility in my wrist after 30 years. I got jerking off to do here bud
An Estwing with a Stanley cat's paw is a much better . However, one must never pull sideways with an Estwing. 99% of nails are shot pnuematically.
I am a big fan of wooden handles. 68 now and been swinging hammers for more than 60 years. (Those earliest years,,, much or often to my father's dismay.) I have swung them all except for the newest crop. Sometime when I was about your age I used a fiberglass handle for years,, and later an Estwing steel,, and at some point my hands grew seriously painful. Like wrapped and protected and learning to swing with my left hand. Until about a year later my left had began 'talking' to me. The shift to the right foot for my claw hammer did not sound like the way to go,, (Could'nt hit shit with it,, except the other foot trying to hold the nails.) Went back to an ash wooden handle,, long 16 or 17 inch,,, never had a problem since. A 'good' steel handle ,, you hit the nail,, the hammer hits your hand equally at the other end. A wooden handle? you hit the nail,, and the reflected whack on the end you are holding is dissipated. Wooden handles are getting hard to find,, every body just wants you to buy a new hammer. All of my hammers are older than you are.
Does the titanium absorb or reflect the vibration? You implied that it reflects the vibration. Get rid of it unless you want some very, very painful hands.
my thoughts as well, I hated the estwing with a passion. I like the stiletto with the curved handle the most. First got stollen and the second my dad grabbed and never brought back lol
I use the German carpenter's hammer, the one with the long tip. That's why it's there so that you can lever it better, e.g .: Loosen the roof battens. It has a square head, so you get better in corners. It also has a nail holder with magnets and the notch at the front for pulling or prying nails, again using the long tip.
Stiletto mini 14. Used a 22oz estwing til I started driving pole barn spikes over head. Now I use it as a back scratcher, has that extra long handle it’s great for getting that itch In the dead center of your back.
I use an Estwing 16 oz straight claw framing hammer i bought in 1981 to start a roofing job with my brother. Wore the waffling off the face of the head , still use it everyday .
My guess is the wooden handled Vaughn has a shallow claw to discourage you from pulling anything but the smallest nails. You will eventually break your wooden handle if you use it to pull larger nails, and they're not inexpensive to replace. I'm retired now but my go-to for 35 years was a 20oz. Vaughn 999, first with a wooden handle, later adopted fiberglass handled one when they became available for the reason stated above.
I'm 36 and use a Vaughan 999 primarily. They're not often in shops though readily available online & the q.c. is good enough to buy sight unseen.
If I'm doing heavier framing I'll often step up to the 19 or 23 oz. Cali framers also from vaughan with a 17"-18" handle.
The handles on the Calis' are a more oblong oval shape with significantly more mass running parallel to the head @ the eye and will take more abuse than the 999. They're outstanding nailing below the waist as well as face nailing. Unfortunately their wide and shallow protruding faces are often more awkward in toe nailing and more precise/awkward situations.
The 999 sees the Lions share of my use and occasionally when I need a bit more power/durability I'll jump to one of the cali framers.
At the cost of the Martinez I can buy 1-smooth face 999, 1- milled face 999, 1-Cali framer, 1-16oz. Trim hammer, and two replacement handles for each.
Not sure if someone commented yet, but you do realize that Mark Martinez was the inventor of the Stilletto hammer?
I have a 48 Year old STILLETO hammer, did he invent that ?
Inventor of the titanium Stiletto*
It looks almost the same. So...yeah!
What’s the story?
@@danielrochaguzman4042 I believe he sold his patents to Milwaukee (who owns Stiletto), then started his own brand with a better design.
The M1 is a very different hammer to swing and takes time to adjust to the mass at the end of the hammer. Keep in mind it's a 15 oz framing hammer that would be used where you would usually be using a 22oz to 25oz framing hammer. The theory is that they can do more with less weight since the mass is moved to the end of hammer. This makes the energy used to swing the hammer more efficient. I love that Mark Martinez is still working hard to innovate even after his creation of Stiletto hammer. It's an awesome hammer but I've always come back to my vintage Bob Hart hammers personally. Have to take car of them now though as they are getting harder and harder to find. Something about the classic axe handle and polished head just do something for me.
i knew when i saw the first video reviewing the m1 that you should’ve got the m4. the owner of martinez tools, mark even said himself if he were to buy one he would get an m4. much lighter and only 2” shorter which is perfect but the m4 is plenty of hammer to do framing but light enough to swing all day and do finish work
I love my Martinez M1!!! I admit it is a lot of money to drop on a hammer but after my elbow pain disappeared I can justify the cost. I will eventually buy an m4 for installation of windows, roofing, and smaller stuff.
28 oz estwing inherited from my old man,it was well used when he died 25 years ago,i am 62 now, and it probably cost 10 bucks at the time and made the two of us a quarter mil combined probably
Me too. Eastwing is my go-to hammer that I got from my dad.
i lost my 28oz, but I'm low-key thankfully i lost it. It could drive nails like crazy, but if you need to flick something or just nudge/tap something it would absolutely kill your wrist. I stayed w/ Estwing though and i bought one if their framing hammers, haven't used it yet but my trade doesn't require hammers to often but it's a tool you gotta have.
My 20oz Vaughan is from 1985, its beat every type of nail some way or another..Would love a Douglas Titanium but would hate to mar it's beauty.
I started framing with a Stanley all steel 19oz framing hammer. I only used it for a short while, and then dedicated it to demolition only. Then I went to a Craftsman 20 oz fiberglass handle hammer, but someone swiped it. Then I was given a Hart hickory-handled framer by my father-in-law. Ever since then I have liked hickory handles the best, especially the axe-style ones that are curved at the bottom. After breaking the handle on the Hart, I got a Husky 22 ounce framer with a hickory handle and a lifetime warranty. Couple years later, our crew got a special deal on some Stiletto 14oz titanium hammers with hickory handles, but the handles on them didn’t last a month for any of us. Really nice for driving nails, though! DeWalt came out with some framing hammers in about 2010, I think - I got ahold of their 17 oz hickory-handled framer with a waffle face, and I’ve really liked it a lot. Only thing is it doesn’t have a nail set. Not too pricey, (I think I paid around $26 USD for it), the handle is quite long, and really strong, even though it’s not too thick, and it carries a lifetime warranty. Comes with a nice grippy rubberized coating on it, but that rubs off over time. So I got some pistol grip tape and wrapped the handle. Works really nice!
Estwing 20oz straight claw. The all rounder.
Used a London pattern head shape one from an old school carpenter last year and that was really different but nice!
20oz toy
If someone were just getting into general carpentry work and construction (bar maybe just framing or concrete) I'd tell them to get an Estwing 20oz all day. Great balance and great for all around work. Or if they are a newbie framer, the Estwing 19oz Ultra framer. Great hammers for the money.
Yeah haha I have a 24oz one, I was just making a joke because everyone seems to have a lighter one then me.
@@717UT I got a 19oz vaughn cali framer recently, wood handle, its so light on my belt and still sinks nails in one hit
Still using my 35 year old 20oz Estwing. Been through a lot of other hammers in that time but always come back to it.
waffle face head for tenderising your steaks for the afterwork bbq, dude these days I hardly ever use my hammer so not really too fussed what it is, still carry a 20ounce estwing that I've owned since 86
My framing hammer has been a 15oz lowes exclusive kobalt for about 6 years. I have replaced it twice cuz I can go to Lowe's and swap a broken one. Side prying bent it, and the grip slid off. Both of those issues have been fixed (thicker neck, bolted handle) in the design and I've had the same one for 4 years. That's an insane lifespan for a framing hammer. Light, invincible, cheap, nice warranty (though idk if it's still made)
put the m4 head on the m1 handle! works just perfect! light hammer, long handle and a lot for power!
I bought the steel Hart hammer from Home Depot here in the US. It is the cheap cousin to the Martinez. The side nail puller is PHENOMENAL! So much easier than the regular. Not a replacement by any means but it makes things much easier. It is heavy though and the steel handle does shock the arm a bit. Good demo hammer like the Martinez but the brand has been sold since then and quality has gone way down. Sad. My framing hammer is an old titanium Dalluge that was my Grandfather's. Huge strike face but minimal weight. I had to put a new wood handle on it and carve some grips into it. Really nice hammer.
I use the Hart for demo/concrete work and the Dalluge for framing so that the nice titanium head stays nice. I think having two hammers is just a practical thing to do. Really appreciate the review.
Hello! so this is the first time I've seen a vid of yours and it was great! one thing I did notice at the end is the "thumb grip" I learned early on as a blacksmith that there is a nerve that runs from your thumb all the way up to your shoulder and neck. using a hammer with vibration resistant material will help, but using your thumb on the back of your hammer like that can cause nerve damage over time.
I'm currently using the Milwaukee 28 oz framing hammer for my day job 💯
I like the material the handle is made from, and how efficient the magnetic nail driver is.
Great video btw💪🏿
So I’ve had a m1 for 3 years now, I love the thing, the straight handle is definitely the way to go, I had the axe handle at first (like yours), and it definitely catches on the hammer loop more, and just doesn’t feel quite as nice on the hammer as the straight handle does.
Also it’s like $50 bucks for the m4 head, and I think you’d really love your hammer with a m4 head on it, it’s next level for balance and finesse.
For 40 years I've tried a lot of hammers. Always come back to 20 oz. Estwing for general use and 19 0z wooden handle Vaughn for hand framing. I made finger notches in the handle for grip
Been using estwing 20 and 24 oz for 30 years, never break, im older now so i just mainly use my paslodes.
They don't boast better durability. The benefit is in the ergonomics
I'm old school and still using my estwing for last 23 years 16oz and got my 20oz about 15years ago..
Got it when I was 20 and its lasted longer then any relationship in my life. There has been a few other hammers but when she's reliable you always go back to her even if she's a little hard on your body...
In all my years not one customer has accused me of putting nails in with a cheap hammer.
I’ve only been in the trade for 3 years, just out of curiosity how long have you been doing it? How does your elbow feel? Genuine questions, I promise. I don’t know very many people outside of the company I work with and the men I work with have pretty expensive hammers.
@@-curran2163 Been in construction for about 18 years. I just use a Stanley hammer that cost about 15 quid, and honestly, my elbow is fine!
I actually have problems with my non-hammer hand and wrist. I think it's because I use that hand to grip and hold stuff in place while I hammer/screw it.
@@-curran2163 8 years carpentry, ive got a 28oz Estwing, no complaints but its all ive known lol
Best comment
20 years carpenter. I found my way to the fiberglass handled Vaughn. Seems like less shock to my elbow over the typical metal handles.
Don’t know if anyone has mentioned this, but I noticed all you guys swing your hammer with your thumb running parallel with the handle, point up to the head. A blacksmith taught me that this is wrong, and can lead to wrist and elbow pain, especially with the 1kg+ hammers they use. The correct hammer grip is where you wrap your thumb around the handle, like you are gripping a bat. Try it out and see how it feels. Cheers guys, phil
Larry Hahn also taught that you should wrap your thumb with a full grip like you’re describing.
Exactly
Honestly I think the M-1 was tweaked for production framers, so yeah the optimum balance and blow would be for working below your waist rolling joists framing walls etc.
I’ve been using the Estwing 14oz 406mm AL-Pro Aluminium Claw Smooth Face Hammer for about 6 months I’m in the Reno building industry in Australia. I’ve loved using this hammer minimal vibration and super light
I think you have said it in a nutshell it’s all about how it affects you’re wrist and or joints because when you’re doing this 15-20 yrs from now that’s when you’re going to look back and hope you made the right decision
Absolutely! Don’t let the price tag decoupage you from buying the right hammer. It’s a long term investment in your wellbeing!
I would still have a hard time telling a young guy he NEEDS to invest in titanium in the first month of working. Every young guy needs to learn with what he can afford at the time and then appreciate what he invests in later. But I can't agree enough, joints and we'll being aren't focussed on enough in the industry.
Finally someone in this comment section who gets it.
Slippery wooden handles is an easy solution, strip off the finish with a cabinet scraper and then apply boiled linseed oil for a much cleaner feel and grip.
Titanium with the wooden handle is the best combination for the arm. I would never go back to full steel hammer.
Yes sir. I’ve gone through every kind of hammer and just keep going back to my wood handled stiletto. Just having less weight on your pouch is huge after a 9-10 hr day.
My biggest concern for the wooden handled hammers is if it will last using it for demolition, as i use my steel hammer for demo all the time not having to worry about it getting chipped or broken.
@@bh2347 I do the same thing. First handle only lasted for a week. After that, I use nail puller for the de-nail job. The second one is still going strong after few years.
My Father taught me 55 years ago with a wooden handle to take a hand saw and rake it back and forth. That will keep it grippy. It’s worked for me for over 50 years of framing
I have found that sanding off the factory finish and coating the handle with Penofin oil finish or a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil greatly improves the grip of wooden handles for all tools, especially hammer handles. In my opinion, they should not require great effort to hold, but be smooth enough to easily adjust ones grip. The beeswax and linseed oil is best applied hot. It absorbs into the wood and steel of tools, providing rust protection and a kind of lubrication for the metal, and provides great long lasting protection for the wood. It was taught to me by an old saw sharpener. Its also great on shovels. He said it was best if you could dip the entire tool in the hot mixture. He kept a tall thin steel barrel over a burner in the shop that was big enough to dip hand saws, and wide enough to take a shovel (half a shovel at a time). He also had a pot for band saw and circular saw blades. I never made more than a half gallon at a time, so I just tried to do it on a hot day and painted the hot mixture on with a paint brush. I don't remember the exact proportions, but I seem to remember 2 to 3 parts linseed oil to 1 part beeswax. The consistency is the most important part. It should be thin enough to absorb into the wood without just congealing on the surface when hot. You can use more beeswax if you are able to dip the entire tool in the hot mixture. Wipe off excess, and let dry for a day or two.
Am about to coat my Stiletto 10oz. Ergonomically contoured the OEM handle and removed all the lacquer going from 40,80,120,220 to 400 grit sandpaper. Thank you for mentioning to warm up the materials. . I am thinking of using a heat gun to warm up the wood before and after the oil has been absorbed and wiped off to quicken absorption and drying.
@@Technie87
Handles are not coated with lacquer, but polyurethane. Lacquer is way to expensive.
@@GoCoyote "The most common mistake made when replacing a hickory handle is driving the handle into the hammer head so far that the bottom of the head cuts into the lacquered surface of the handle." - This is straight from stiletto's site
@@Technie87
Well it may be possible that they are actually still using lacquer, I suspect that they are using old language or incorrect terminology. Many people still refer to polyurethane finishes as lacquer, although they are very different. Because of the toxicity and flammability of the solvents used in lacquers, they require expensive air handling systems. Modern water based finishes are much cheaper, and lacquer, while a lovely finish, is more delicate and less durable than polyurethane. Lacquer allows the wood to breathe, so that is why it is used on many violins. My father used to dissolve amber into lacquer to French polish violins when I was kid. If they are using lacquer, the finish will not be a layer that can peel away from the wood, but will actually be a part of the wood, although there are also other finishes and preparations that will do the same. I really like the beeswax and linseed oil mix, but Penofin is a nice alternative.
I'm a weekend warrior only so I'm still using my cheapo 20oz Stanley that I've had for ever. A friend (who is a real carpenter) nicknamed my hammer "Lightning" after helping me on a job because he reckoned it never struck the same place twice :) Friends eh?
I want to get one of those wood hammers now.
Framing in Canada, I have the Stiletto wood handle and love it. I have friends that have the tbone and the handle snaps on them
Richard, I got mine way back when Douglas manufactured this design. Awesome hammer. Regards to big D. That's Dallas, TX to the rest of the world. DeWaukee rules.
I’ve got the 10oz wood handle stiletto for trim and the 14oz for framing.
I gave away my 15oz tibone because the wood handles are so much more comfortable to me.
Wrist issues have pretty much disappeared. 👍
I been framing in Canada for over 30 years now, and always try new hammers that get out into the Canadian construction market,and the only two hammers that were worthy and use them for long periods of time were,the Estwing that was king 30 years ago and the titanium Stilleto that I been using for 10 years now,this is the best for winter and summer use
I have a few, a husky and Dewalt and an estwing and I will not go back. Feels better and less reverberation imo
Hey mate.
I don’t know how many people may have mention this but a pros of the Martinez is that you can change grip and head without buying a new hammer. You can just buy the smaller head or even a big heavier one. And the grip can be bought straight as well. Which wouldn’t grip your hammer loop.
I want to move to NZ & work with these guys!
Me too. Or just move to nz it’s beautiful
@@80zbabyz but all of the nail guns will only be single shot which would be annoying as he'll whenever you do sheathing.
Joseph Lee true
We hardly ever do sheathing in nz
Nah pay is junk here mate.
I use Hart hammers for everything. 10oz wood hatchet handle for trim, 21oz wood hatchet for framing and 24oz metal hatchet for demo. I love the sound of the “sweet spot” ping from my framing hammer.
I'm still rocking the classic Estwing.
I do high rise concrete forming and a lot of guys that come from framing have stilettos and the head always come loose because we hit a lot metal objects. We don’t just nail nails into wood. I found the martinez m1 is way better. The replaceable heads are great and me and few others who have it will never switch.
M1 also has different size heads and 2 different handle types. Great product.
I don't think you can go wrong with estwing! Use it all the time fencing, can knock in a 4" nail in 4 hits.
Estwing is bar none the best hammer I've ever used
I concur
Here in canada the estwing is really popular. The stiletto hammers are the best light weight hammers here. I use the 14oz stiletto and just treat the handle with good oil finishes.
So it's the perfect hammer if you have the m1 and m4 head?
I've been swinging a hammer for 25 years. I like a wood handle, especially on a framer, as it absorbs shock better than any other material imo.
I spent the whole time wondering about the pink lumber, lol, thanks for the explanation
The dalluge is king! Same profile as the Vaughan/Douglas. 16oz titanium.
Scott shall now be referred to as "MC Hammer".... #Hammertime #dadjoke
I use the M4. Cost me a fortune, because import tax in the Netherland made it twice as expensive.
But after a week of getting used to it, I will not go back to a Stanley ever again.
Nice videos 🙂
Estwing 20 oz claw hammer - and because im oldish I went with the leather grip
I know this video is pretty old now but in '03 I started out swinging the Douglas 23oz framer for 7 years, I got out of building for 5 years n worked in a sawmill in those years. During my sawmill days all my tools and Occidental tool bags were stolen. I got back into pounding nails 6 years ago and had to start from scratch with building my tool arsenal back up. I found out that Douglas was no longer making the hammer that I loved so I found the Vaughn 16oz framer which I swung for the last 6 years until a few months ago I stumbled upon the Martinez M1. After weeks of contemplating spending $300 for a hammer I bit the bullet and for the past 2 months have been loving the M1, although I wish Mark would make a flat top milled face (not waffle face) framing head. I too did not really like the top heavy feel of the hammer after swinging the 16oz, but after about a week I would never go back. Now for the past couple weeks I've been contemplating on spending $300 for the Martinez "Red Headed Step Child" titanium speed square, which I probably will end up doing lol. I believe investing in quality tools that will last a long time and will make your money back 10 fold. 🤙
Love my 20 oz estwing curved claw once they have been used for years the handles really feel nice and the wear and tear looks awesome, I’ve never thought about going titanium but I’m thinking of giving it a try
cheers for the content!
Same for me
I've used the blue Estwing for over 20 years I don't even notice vibration.
Honestly I’ve been using some no name wood handle old hammer for years and it feels great to me. I feel like if you’re shit with a hammer you could have a $500 hammer and still not be productive does anyone else agree or am I wrong
I use a 14oz stiletto wood handle and love it one benefit I didn’t think of before buying it is that I carry around my hammer a lot more than I use it and it’s a lot less weight in my belt
For wood handles: sand off the shiny, slippery varnish or lacquer or poly or whatever the heck the finish is. Sand to the bare wood, tune up the shape maybe, finish with 2 applications of boiled linseed oil for a very usable grip.
When I switched from the Estwing framer to a wood-handled Hart I knew the Estwing was pretty much relegated to the worst demo jobs... Wood handles ever since.
totally agree! i sanded my vaughan california framer and apply linseed oil every so often and the grip is fantastic even in the wet! love the hickory handle
Couldn't agree more that timber hafts feel much better than rubber sleeved steel, but they tend to take damage and break too easily on site work. Breakages and the need for reliable tools were much the reason why so many of us switched from timber to steel hafted hammers. Stanley had Steelmaster with welded head that tended to break or Estwing with one piece forging. Estwing pretty much won.
@@gazpal Right tool for the job... Since I do more assembly than "disassembly", I don't mind having my wood-handled daily drivers for construction and some old steel- or fibreglass-handled bashers for demo.
For some of us, the time replacing wood handles is nothing compared to the time (and life activities) lost to injured or worn out ligaments, tendons, and joints.
I scraped the varnish with a razor blade, sanded, then oiled mine. Worked like a charm.
@@cbat09you're obviously not from the same generation of tradesmen as I. By all means always use the right tool for the job and always strive for that, but heading the lightweight hammer head route is the wrong direction, regardless of what the hammer shaft is made from. The hammer head does the work and it's weight drives the nail. More strikes using underweight hammers = more chance of wear and tear on your body. Example, 3" nail should take two - three strikes, not five. Five strikes on 500 nails = 2,500 hits versus 1,000 using the correct hammer for the job. The hammer head does the job without any need for undue effort, or wear and tear on the user.
I use a DeWalt 16'' 14oz steel framing hammer, and have used it pretty much my whole career so far (about 5 years). I like it, but I haven't tried it against many other hammers. I know I do appreciate it's lighter weight, though.
Estwing 20 oz straight claw. Tried many hammers and always come back to it.
toy hammer
Hugo Garde are you American by any chance?
@@azza1793 I'm irish. Doing general carpentry from roofing to 2nd fix and stairs, even a bit of plaster boarding thrown into the mix.
Have you tried the new Dewalt 14OZ?
Yellow handle, costs about $50, I really like it.
@@ajs96350 i had one in my hand once. the guy i work with has the 15oz lightweight estwing but i like a bit of weight in my hammer.
The wooden handle hammer looks like the handle still has the factory poly on it. Wooden handle needs to be sanded down, maybe charred followed by a sanding to expose the wood grain and finally some oil applied to the handle. Won't be slippery or callus producing, plus looks like buddy there wants to customize his hammer anyway. That would be the way to do just that.
I’ve got a TB 3 and I love it. I’ve only briefly used a Martinez so I can’t comment too much on it. I’d happily own both. The price is hefty but there’s a reason that so many framers use titanium. Shock absorption was the main reason I made the investment
I mean for a heavy hammer you can hold it higher than the grip to make precision and small hit. Even if its not made for it, it remove a lot of weight and strain on the wrist
That's awkward as hell
Where can you purchase the Vaughn? I've been looking everywhere
After reading a plethora of comments, it looks like a 20 ounce straight claw estwing is the preferred hammer of choice.
I'd guarantee those aren't comments from career carpenters.
@@ouisi7 oath
@@ouisi7 That's funny, because I've never known a "career carpenter" who kept stopping in the middle of a job they're doing to record videos for kids like you to watch on TH-cam since you'll never swing a hammer yourself.
@@ouisi7 You obviously don't know many career carpenters.
@Mike Smith Yep. Recalling the transition - during the late 70's/early 80's - in the UK from timber to steel hafted hammers, we first moved across to Stanley Steelmaster, but they tend to snap across the collar. A few of the lads had tripped over Estwing hammers and they steadily grew in popularity with most of us moving on to use them as they became more readily available. A lot of the young guys have little or no experience of house bashing solely using hand tools.
Thanks for the great information.
It's pronounced "Da-loo-gi" by the way. The "g" is pronounced as the g in gate.
I bought a Dalluge hammer last year and it actually tells you how to pronounce it on the packaging around the shaft.
"too heavy in the head, and the wrist pays the price for that" 😂🤣😂🤣
Good catch 😂
skiet.
This attention to detail is the unmistakable mark of a true tradesman.
Arf Arf!!!
Only girls complain about wrist pain from swinging a heavy hammer!
Mentioned that the M1 has a side nail puller that comes in handy. So does the Vaughn/Dalluge
Estwing 20oz straight claw... “unless your made of money “ - how many has Cameron got ? My guess is 4 , two of each
Only 4? Surely Milwaukee make a titanium hammer as well
Same, probably one of the beast all-round hammers. I got that one, and a 22 Oz one, the 22 is a bit heavy on the head, but it's meant for smashing the shit outta studs.
@@iainarthur7713 Milwaukee owns Stiletto now, so yes.
@@Davey768 haha excellent :) So are we waiting for Festool to make a hammer to add to his collection of tools :)
@@iainarthur7713 will it be battery powered with an automated belt system?? Who knows 😂
Good video. I see it was made 2 years ago and things have changed, which I am guessing you are aware of...but in case you did not know. They have a multitude of heads, 10 by last count. All heads fit on M1 & M4 handles and there is a Titanium framing head, which would definitely change the balance you were talking about. They also show 20 different grips on the Martinez website; all M1 &M4 compatible. The main difference is curved or straight handle...the other difference is a multitude of colors to choose from. I am sure that a straight handle will give you less hassles in grabbing and removing from your belt hook, but it is never as smooth as wood so although should be easier to remove, still won't be as smooth as your Vaughan.
I saw a video where Mark Martinez had an M1 handle with an M4 head...this also makes for a more balanced hammer, and then he also showed an M4 handle with an M1 head, he said it was great for demo.
For sure expensive for anyone not using one for a living, but if you do earn with a hammer, the many configurations between handle, grip and head is quite appealing.
Estwing 20s. When I first started roofing the industry was still nailing sheets on the roof. My left thumb loved kissing the hammer head. Especially on the laps. Took alot of practice and blood to learn how to get the nail in nicely without smashing my thumb and denting the sheet. It was for me better to have a heavy hammer
Greylynnjr. My father was a builder and I would help the Carpenters pitch roofs. I bought 3 estwing hammers and they all had legs. I stopped buying the estwing hammer until many years later. That hammer also grew legs and walked away. I then bought a Johnson hammer which wasn't much chop. All my tools went on holidays so I bought tools again. Haven't bought a hammer since all my tools went on holidays a few years ago. I think my tools are in self isolation somewhere probably another state.
It's interesting the different hammers and their function. I know about stress I feel the titanium may have too much flex. Not sure the newer models. I always bought the 24 ounce. Although I screw everything so although there have been instances I needed a hammer, I used a Thor dead blow hammer and small Gympies. Milwaukee make not a bad hammer. I'm thinking I will get a steel hammer.
I slate a lot of roofs, I’ve been considering buying a stiletto or maybe a vaughn to replace a 20oz estwing . I want to get my hands on one before I spend £100 on a hammer. Being 19 and on pretty low wages as an apprentice it’s a big chunk of money to splash on a hammer
16 Oz Estwing leather handle. Got a 90 percent discount by mistake.
Not gonna complain about that.
Leave it lying in the rain for one night, its gone...
Treat the leather with respect and it'll serve you well. :) (90% discount is a gift) Every now and then seal the leather with beeswax then lightly rub it back with a bit of 0000 steel wool to enhance the grip, but try and avoid getting it wet because the leather will deteriorate fast if soaked.
Estwing 20oz straight rip claw block of steel.
Robust with great weight distribution and a good handle.
I am using The vaughan fs16. It is a fantastic hammar. I can recommend 🙂👍
Great video. I use a 14oz stiletto with long wooden handle and love it. It's beat up too. I don't baby it. The wooden handled options are half the price of the solid titanium ones as well. And $150 isnt that much of an investment for a quality tool you use everyday, especially when considering the longevity of your joints.
The Estwing 28 oz. straight claw for the last 15 years.
My co-workers never ask to borrow it.
Stiletto wood handle with the lacquer sanded off. Smooth and grippy.
Estwing for 20 years, straight claw, stud straightener... bullet proof, perfect weight.
the intricacies of doing work using certain tools still amaze me until this very day. i myself have been in the industry for just 10 odd years now. but the new tools and machineries to assist our work is becoming very handy. essential even
2:22 I've had that hammer my self for 20 years. Look after your tools. I've had 10 new heads and 9 new handles.
Good old Trig! They don't tell em like they used to,,
3rd going on 4th year apprentice here… I use the dalluge titanium and just bought an M1! In my relatively brief experience, it seems like the dalluge is more suited for interior framing, finishing, etc. it’s also wonderfully light which makes it more comfortable to carry and use. I put hockey tape around the handle to deal with the grip problem, and used jb weld on the bolts that hold the handle on to keep them from gradually unscrewing. Lately I’ve been doing a lot of super heavy concrete work/demo, and the little dalluge just was too light to keep up, so I invested in the M1! I love hammers and seem to collect them, so I’ll prob end up with a stiletto or two in the future as well. Looking forward to trying out my M1 on the job! 😊🔨
Mate, if you had to chose between the dalluge and the M1 which one would you pick as your everyday?
@@maxmarcus6074 Dalluge by far ahahhahaha. No question. Do all the research about the M1 and hopefully youll come to the conclusion its a decent hammer but not the best and super overpriced. Its more a collectors item. Steel head instead of titanium head has more vibration. Titanium handle vs hickory handle has more vibration. 907 grams... Thats over 1 lbs it weighs. Ill stick with a 14 oz stiletto or dalluge that weighs about 600g if you shave the wood a hair and color your handle how u want it.