I've owned my Ti-Bone for 15+ years. I have only replaced the head once. About once a year I have to tighten the head but I use blue locktite to keep it in their. I frame houses for a living so a good hammer is essential. I have had practically ever hammer out on the market and my stiletto's still my go too.
Ben, been skating my whole life and watching your videos for years and just now at 24 years i acquired a job framing houses on the beach. Now i get to enjoy these videos as well. thanks buddy
I've been a framer for around 7 years, I love the Vaughan 23oz California Framing Hammer (curved handle). I actually bought a 16oz Stiletto, but found I didn't like it because it worsened my carpal tunnel and elbow pain due to needing more force to pull out nails, whereas the heavier hammer has more momentum and impact force and makes it a lot easier. And plus, it's only around $45 and lasts several years easily, whereas, like you said, I found the face on my Stiletto flattened quickly. I also love my Daluge 16oz Smooth-Face Curved handle hammer for working on more finished jobs where you don't want to leave marks. Tip: make sure the grain direction on your handle has the grain running front to back, not side to side on the hammer, this makes it stronger in that axis and will be less likely to break when really prying on it.
I use the Vaughn 19 oz hickory (curved handle) and I absolutely love it but would like more weight I can’t find at any stores near me a 23oz curved handle so I think I’m gonna try this 16 oz stiletto here soon
For wood handles, axes, shovels, etc., I always take off the varnish top coat too. And apply boiled linseed oil once a year instead to help the wood out. Feels better in the hands that way, less slippery when wet too and less blisters.
Just bought the tibone3 smooth head for everything else and the 16 oz wood with a waffle head for framing and that was going to be the first thing in the agenda as soon as I get it in the mail!
I know what linseed oil is, but I haven't heard of it being "boiled". Is that something that all manufacturers do prior to bottling? It doesn't sound like something they'd expect customers to do after purchase, but then I'm a nube.🤷 I'd rather ask here than be standing in my kitchen watching a pot of linseed oil beginning to boil and suddenly wind up in the hospital for something worse than Gorilla Glue girl because I was following some advice in a TH-cam video comment! 🤦 Hahaha!
@@SeanHayesParleys Ha ha! That’s hilarious! Yes, you buy it already labeled boiled linseed oil. The difference between that and regular linseed oil is that it won’t get sticky. Boiled linseed oil is the go to treatment for wood handled tools. It won’t blister your hands and it leaves an amazing patina after some use, and you can reapply every so often. But yeah, don’t be gorilla glue girl. Just go to The hardware store and buy it. I use it on wood kitchen knife handles, even to protect the metal on garden tools such as loppers, and any wood handled tool I ever buy I sand off the handle to get all the varnish off and then rub it down with oil. Don’t let your buddies see you though, you’re asking for endless jokes
I love learning things. All kinds of “creation” things like carpentry, drywall, woodworking. I’m happy I get to do it here from your videos and often from the comments. This is a great community. 👍
Love a vaughan with a wood handle myself! I take my handles to the bench grinder and carve a shallow groove in a spiral up the handle. Gives me a great grip and I never get my hammer confused with someone elses
@@thezfunk I agree wood is the only way to go! I bought an estwing when I first for into construction but it killed my arm. I do still use it for demo sometimes
I bought a Boss framing hammer last year and I love it, for the price and quality. I was looking at the TBone but honestly the price was the issue. You raised the question on balance on the wood handle. Great video and content as always.
I bought a 19 oz Vaughan you recommended a few years ago, absolutely love it. I also sanded down the handle and added hockey stick grip tape. Down in FL, so kuch frio when its humid and sweat covered.
Holding that wood handle at the very bottom, almost as low as you can, will help. Guys will say thats a macho man contest thing but it actually aids in the proper wrist action which will save you a lot of unnecessary muscle wear and tear in the rest of your arm. Helps snap it. Larry Haun is one of the best framers of all time. Watching that guy send nails home with one or two blows up into his early 80s is wild. Love your videos! I’d give him a search some time!
5:17 I’ve noticed that grain direction is extremely important when it comes to hammer handles. Most hammer manufacturers have them going the right direction where the wood is strongest for pulling and striking. Often tho you’ll see handles that look like the grain started a twist, or they just shaped them wrong and now the weak side of the grain is being used.
I love the side nail puller. I’ve used that to clasp onto stubborn concrete anchors then hit the side of the head with another hammer to drive them in. Great multi use addition to the tool
It’s all about the side puller on the TiBone!! Easier to pull nails than with a 48” crowbar…not even kidding…game changer. Really saves your shoulders over time.
Funny you say the more expensive option tends to grow legs and walk off the job site. It think that depends a lot on where you're located. In Portland we had to secure all our tools in a big chained up job box or in our truck every night. We rarely ever left our tools unattended. Here in AK we can leave carts full of tools on site for a couple days and they are fine. It helps that the buildings we do are usually secure at night but any of the other trades could easily take things when we aren't there if they really wanted.
I have a 16oz wood handle. Wanted a smooth face, but ended up getting the milled face. I LOVE this hammer. It has “grown” to fit my hand beautifully and the milled face has smashed pretty much all the way gone. That’s ok, cuz it’s way better for trim work. The t-bone I think would be fine for framing, but it’s soooo expensive. I don’t know. For really rough stuff, I pull out my old Estwing that I’ve been swinging for 30 years. Lol THAT is a tough hammer, but heavier.
I have a tool vest from Occidental, and so wait isn't too much of a hassle. And that tool vest has two hammer holders. Maybe they were intended for different things or, so that you can choose where you hold your hammer. I'm not sure, but either way sometimes I will carry a dogyu Japanese hammer and a stiletto at the same time. Because those Japanese hammers basically have cat's paw nail pullers. So you can even use your two hammers together as a cat's paw
I joined the carpenters union in 1973. I have used Plumb, Vaughan, Douglas, Stiletto, and Hart. I still prefer Wood handles and steel heads. At 67 I have no wrist, elbow, or shoulder problems. Hardcore Hammers makes a great artisan American made hammer
I started in the Palo Alto CA local Union in 1964 and know exactly what you are talking about. Stiletto 20 oz framer and 16 oz Vaughan trim hammer were my choices; never tried any of the expensive exotic stuff they are showing. By the way I do understand the currency value in 2023 is virtually zero! All quality tools are expensive; even non US made stuff.
I love a 16oz smooth face straight wood handle Stiletto. Now that most nailing isn't done with a hammer the downsides are less of an issue for me. Just remember a hammer is not a pry bar and your handles will last much longer. I do however switch out my hammer for an Estwing when doing concrete jobs..
Yeah I run the 14oz stilletto hickory handke and If im doing any prying that could break the handle I just go grap a pry bar. And I also switch to a cheaper more durable hammer doing concrete work.
I want to try different hammers but as a trim carpenter I use the butt of my Estwing as a rubber mallet and I can't give up that feature. If I'm doing t&g pine or cypress or something then I'll use the proper tool (an actual rubber mallet), but I don't keep a mallet in my tool bags all the time and when I have a board that needs some coaxing into place the butt of the Estwing works great for pounding in a piece of delicate trim without damaging it.
I did contract trim work for years and I like your idea of using butt of Estwing as mallet. There was no chance of me using anything but a 16 oz wood handled Stiletto or Vaughn. I had to use a block of wood to tap something in place.
I own and like them both, they each have a different feel. Just depends what I'm doing. I'll tell you one thing is the T bone pings like an anvil with every hit!
I use a 19oz Vaughn straight claw. Absolutely love it. Had it for about 3 years now and just noticed about a month ago my head is cracked on the neck web. I have completely abused this hammer and it will be my next. Just couldn't see me spending that much on a hammer.
I'm an electrician so I only ever hammer staples (thousands of em though) and scab in some 2x4s with nails. I tried every steel hammer out there, Vaughn was my favorite. Then I tried my buddie's 14 oz wood handle Stiletto, bought one that night and never looked back. It's like having a cheat code. The palm swell about halfway down fits me like a glove, hands are on the larger side.
I did a bit of an investment in myself about two years ago and bought a Diamondback toolbelt together with a Martinez M1 hammer. I work fulltime building Skateparks in both wood and concrete. We don´t use nails alot but everytime we do or I need to use my Martinez for something I get excited about it. My coworkers have no clue as too why anyone would spend that money on a hammer and a toolbelt, but for me, working with top quality tools is such a joy!
I just switched from the estwing all steel 16 oz smooth face framing hammer to a Hickory handle 19 oz steel head milled face Milwaukee. it's a world of difference! I loved the estwing because of how light it is I'm a bigger guy and have no problems swinging a bigger hammer but the smaller one I find less fatiguing also the tines on the back one is about a half inch shorter because I broke it but it works great as a makeshift pulp hook for grabbing and pulling material. The Hickory handle hammer absorbs shock much better the milled face doesn't slip off nails or my nail punch love the difference also the Hickory can be carved to customize it
We've got identical hammers! Only difference is my Milwaukee has a smooth face. Definitely makes hammering long nails easier without much added weight. If you're a big guy, consider the 20oz estwing.
i have the Ti Bone 16 and I love it , used to have a 14 (that one grew legs), then I found online the Martinez M1 when they came out and ordered one of the first ever made at the time, hands down the best hammer of the lot IMHO, the head is forget steel, the milled head lasted me a long time, it has replaceable head and claws, replaceable handle, they even have customizing options, I really think you should check it out, the balance, handle, claw, nail puller, and everything has definately a different feel, the only drawback is the price, it changed the game for my carpal tunnel too, it is a definitely improvement form the TiBone, Mark Martinez was the owner of Stiletto, and made all these improvements for the Martinez hammer.
I have a few decent Estwings that can get the job done for my day to day and as a remodeler. I have borrowed a framer's Stilletto and it is a different world of comfort. I think it might be justified to buy a top end hammer as it is still cheaper than elbow surgery.
Honestly stiletto wood hammer is $100? I found one a guy had for $40 without a handle and the handle was $15. A little cheaper. Definitely cheaper than they used to be. There is more titanium competition now so I guess it’s that. Also you can sand off the finish the put on and use linseed oil and it’ll make the handle more durable and comfortable in the hand. Idk. I figured I’d try the cheaper version before dropping $250. I’ll probably go for the Martinez hammer though. Same guy made both stiletto and Martinez and Stiletto was sold to Milwaukee.
If you have a hammerloop on the side or back of your belt the rubberhandle will catch more easily, thats why people using the hammer alot prefer woodhandle.
Most framing crews I’ve worked with the past couple years have banned milled face hammers, too many guys forget to swap out for a smooth face when doing some like putting fascia boards or window trim on (most of the houses I work on use cedar trim) or some thing a milled face hammer shouldn’t be used for
I bought a Martinez M1 after snapping the claw on my Ti-bone a few years back. Had it for about a decade but I had a "brave" moment at a new job lol. Had a 14 oz woody too but sold it because it felt unproductive. Had a 23 oz Vaughan too but it wore me out so fast for overhead work that it lasted less than 3 months on the belt. YMMV but the Martinez helped sooooo much with my carpal tunnel and I can honestly say it's been the only hammer I've used for everything from finishing to high rise formwork for 3 years now
Ti bone is 100% worth the extra. #1 is the side nail puller. Honorable mentions are the holes in the handle and the changeable faces. The handle holes can be used to add extra leverage to a cats paw. The most important on the job use of the handle holes is to be able to use the hammer for a reaching overhead and to use as a crutch for walking crossways on a steeper pitched roof. Hold the hammer head with the magnet in the center of the palm of your hand and with your middle finger in the top hole. This gives you about a foot and a half of reach. I use it for that several times every day on the job.
I owned the original T-Bone with the yellow hatchet-style. I framed houses with it for a few years and eventually gave it to a friend as a gift when I changed trades, thinking that I could always just pick up another one if I regretted not having it later. Shortly after that, they discontinued that specific model. I've since bought the new model (that you're holding), and I hated it! Right away I took an angle grinder to that worthless nail-puller on the side of the head, then a file, then a tiny sanding block, then steel wool. Eventually, the head was symmetrical again; as if it had been manufactured that way. If I want to pull nails, I have a cat's paw for that. In fact, I have the cat's paw that they sell. That new handle design is awful too; vastly inferior to the old yellow one in shape and feel. So I cut the molded-rubber off of there and made a nice hatchet-style grip for it out of bare hickory and finished it with a few coats of linseed oil. It looks gorgeous! But that's an awful lot of work just to fix a hammer that costs around $200 bucks! Stiletto, what was wrong with the old design? It was everything a framing hammer needed to be. And if you want evidence beyond just my word for it, check Ebay for the original yellow hatchet-style handled T-Bones. They're almost never there! Conspicuous by their absence. That should tell you something... I think if customers are being asked to spend that much, they should offer a variety of designs; at least the styles they've already offered!
I have the Ti Bone love it. Sometimes if your on a job and another Carpenter asks you for a loan of a Hammer and you hand it to them they very rarely want to give it back. The biggest job i have is to watch it at teabreak i never leave it out of sight because it could go walking. The thumb imprint on the handle is very useful and suits my hands perfect. The only thing downside to the hammer is in very warm weather your hand gets sweaty and the handle becomes slippery.
I bought a estwing Al pro about 4 years ago, and love it. Been given a tibone 3 and wow. Awesome for framing. But I find myself picking up the estwing by default now and actually using it for everything...
Been on construction jobs all my life & im 51 now, the Vaughan California Framer 17" straight handle is the best hammer I've ever used. I grew up watching old school construction workers, 100* weather, no shirts, cutoff shorts, speed after coffee, beer before lunch, not a saw on the job had a guard, some guys useing rigging axes, & you got paid by what you got done. First time i took a metal handled hammer to work my boss threw it as far as he could & the lift ran it over & bent it. Told me those where for form setters & sent me to buy a real WOOD HANDLE framing hammer. Hell, nowadays mose people don't even know what a rigging ax is! By the way, if your handle broke you went home put the head in the oven & put on a new handle. And heres a tip, dont used your arm to push the nail in! Swing that hammer & use the wrist, let the hammer do the work.
I do Formwork and have owned a Tibone 2 for 3 years until it unfortunately grew legs and walked away one day... Once that happened I "upgraded" to the Tibone 3. Do not upgrade to the Tibone 3 if you use a Tibone 2 and here's why... For starters its thinner, the shaft of the hammer is thinner and you can really feel it compared to the Tibone 2. It shakes a lot more and feels a little bit different in my opinion with the years of experience I've had with the Tibone 2, however compared to a wood handle I do enjoy using the titanium better but that's just my opinion. Second the claws are less durable, working with concrete and chipping stuff away these claws like to twist easier and I'm honestly afraid that they will snap so I primarily use the side puller if I can or I resort to using my nail puller and put the nail puller in the upper slot of the Tibone for extra leverage (If you haven't tried that you should because it works a treat especially when combined with the titanium stiletto nail puller). Third the grip on the new Tibone 3 is stiffer, which yes is an upgrade from previous however coming from somebody that never had the grip failure issue with the Tibone 2 I find it uncomfortable when nailing all day. Just today alone I pinned and nailed ledger for a building and my hand was killing after it, it just doesn't have the umff I want and need in it anymore so for those reasons I will be "investing" In a Martinez M1. Yes its more expensive but from using co workers and experiencing it hands on compared to the Tibone 3 I can confidently say that the Martinez M1 is the superior hammer if your looking to spend the 300+ dollars already.
Working around concrete, forms and steel can trash a quality hammer pretty quickly. I have not worked for years, but honestly I can not imagine spending $250-$300 even with currency value at near zero! If I was still working, I would find some good used US made Stiletto and Vaughn wooden handled hammers and refurbish them and replace handles as needed. Made in China, Tiwan or Mexico are out.
I’ve even got chipping and blow outs on mine. Used it over 6 years though it seems like there’s some kind of kinetic charge or something when striking titanium to steel that causes it to break down
I rest my thumb slightly off centre on the back of the hammer. This adds a level of control over the hammer and stops its tendency to pivot back against the webbing between the Thumb and Forefinger. That's how I was taught when I first started Carpentry and it's stuck ever since.
I was given a Stiletto mini 14 that is pretty much cooked. (Face is worn and Allen bolt is siezed, grip is work and not replacable on this model) but I love it! I've had a few cheaper framing nailers and I need something incredibly heavy to get the power I need for working with hardwood but the Stiletto gives my the same result as an 18 but with the weight of a 14. It's awesome. I've been considering buying a new one but the issue is I use it for demo as much as I do general construction so a $400 hammer breaking off dry mortar doesn't sound appealing for me.
I used to use my thumb as a guide then I kept wondering why I always snacked my fingers then my inlaw who been a cabinet maker and general contractor taught me a few tricks, heavily critiqued me and laughed at I was going through a box of bandaids. I still have lots to learn but I'm always looking to improve
I have the TiBone 14. Had it for over a decade. I'd never buy the milled face framer with the wood handle--can't replace the face once it's done for--'Mushes out fast' as you say! I have the little wood-handled Stilletto finish hammer-smooth face- and it's awesome.
I just bought the stiletto a few days ago, before I was even aware of this video. I immediately noticed the slippy grip. I'm going to try wrapping friction tape around the handle
With the stilleto 16oz hickory I recommend sanding off the film and staining it and maybe use a different kind of coating on it really could work on any hickory handle hammer
I have the ti-bone 2 for over 10 years. I love this hammer. I have never had any issues with it. I just make sure never to loan it out. The grip on the ti-bone 3 sux. And the thumb indent is perfect. Thanks.
I had the original version of the tbone ( pre side nail puller with the gray grip) for years and loved it. Before that my go to was a 21-23 oz Hart or Vaughan. I also have a couple 14oz wood handle stilettos that are great as well. Recently I passed on my old tbone because the grip was getting loose and pretty beat. (still had the original face as well because I'm one of the odd framers that prefer a milled face that's so beat it might as well be smooth or just a smooth face.) I bought one of the Martinez hammers and it really is an incredibly nice hammer. Took some getting used to after using the tibone for so long but you'll have that. And sure they're expensive but it's a tool that I actually use extensively every day. I can't say a hammer has ever owed me a dime no matter what it cost me.
I used a rasp on my wooden handle to reshape slightly then used bee's wax to improve the grip...keep bee's wax in my bag to reapply once in awhile to maintain the grip feel.
Spar is worth a try if you don't mind sanding off the finish that came on the handle. If you apply 3- 4 coats it gives a rubber feel, it's excellent with moisture resistance and is more durable than most other wood finishes short of epoxy. Worth noting spar will yellow/amber wood a bit.
I've got the 14oz Stiletto and honestly it doesn't see much use. For me Vaughan is the best for framing, mostly the 19 oz straight handle and the 23oz when I want a little extra power. They make a pretty nice drywall hatchet as well.
Honestly I’ve used a stiletto tb3 for high rise formwork for a year now. I like it, but it’s definitely a framers hammer not a form workers. Hitting jacks and rebar and shit like that makes my face always come loose, so bad that I’ve had to super glue it almost at the end of every day, bought a new face and a few months after same thing, I’ve epoxied it on now and that seemed to do the trick hahaha. But also anybody that’s familiar with form work stilettos suck ass for working on Peri walls or gang forms, but it’s amazing for closing deck or working with nails. But sometimes the swing doesn’t hit hard enough and you have to hammer clamps 30 fuckin times just to get them off. East wing 28 or 30 oz is the absolute best for walls. But I still love my stiletto
I have been framing for 4 years and have been using the TBone3 the whole 4 years.. Never had to re-tighting screw on head.. Almost the framers i work with on the subdivisions sites use the same hammer and say it the best..
I love the Hickory curve handle, all the OG carpenter told me it save their elbow. I've try the straight wood handle and the hammer flies off my hand even with gloves, I have to buy a new curve handle for my new hammer. I usually buy the stiletto handle wrap for my hammer, to have a better grip.
Been pounding nails for over 60 years now mostly on framing .I find now I need handles that are on the thicker side ,I can't hold the handles like in the past.
I've always been happy with my 16 and 24 oz estwings. I can't justify spending that much on a hammer, though that's some nice waffling on the head of the Ti bone.
@@h20s8804 I also continue to read and hear that it's about getting the same impact power with less weight so it's easier on one's joints. Do you find you get the same or even greater power with less weight?
@@SeanHayesParleys I think for nails, when you have to use the hammer, it's just as effective as a big heavy hammer. But there's no way the Ti hammer is as momentous as a big ol' 24oz hammer for moving walls at the plates or driving stakes or stuff like that. I love the Ti hammer and nail puller because they're light in the vest or on the waist.
I bought a used TBII, and it was well worn. The waffle face was worn completely smooth, and the claw was worn shorter...lots of use for sure, but still very usable.
The DeWalk demo hammer is a must have…it might be called something different…you’ll recognize it the minute you see it..best hammer I have ever owned.. try one it will blow both those away…hamming nails and demolition of showers or walls.
I bought a Stilletto TI15 about 6-7yrs ago. Comcerning the interchangeable head I almost immediately switched over to a smooth face even though the bulk of my work at the time was framing. I though I would switch back and forth between the waffle head and smooth face head but I just stuck With the smooth face. Awesome Hammer. I cracked the head down about 4 years ago and it has not moved,in fact I'm not sure I could change it out if I wanted to. I have beaten in nails, demoed, cranked and pryed, hammered wood and steel stakes, used the face and claw to chip off concrete seams, chiseled, etc. Zero complaints. I'll probably be using this hammer until my last day on the job.
I prefer the wood. That being said if you're buying a 16 oz, pick through the lot. There's diff curves, thickness, etc. Also comes without the ax handle for the old fellers.
I'm a drummer and I hate the feel of new drum sticks... The dry wood handles just feel slippery and wrong! I like them better when they've been played in a little and the handles seem stickier... but then the tips get all busted up and they sound like crap on the cymbals so I have to get new sticks... I hate the feel of new drum sticks......
The tendency to grow legs and walk off site ahahaha well said man. I got mine stolen. 3 months later one of my buddies saw this guy using it (I've marked it) he got fired the next day. Lol
A nice alternative that won't break the bank is the Estwing AL pro. It's aluminum body and steel head and claws. Been using mine for a few months and I'm super happy with it.
I’ve had the tibone 3 for about a year maybe more and I love it! Rolling those nails out with the side of the head is nice! I want to get a Martinez m4 12oz for finish nails!
My current boss had his Stilletto snap right in the handle, he runs the Doc Martin hammer now cause he says Stillettos only have a one year warranty from purchase date and the Doc Martin has lifetime warranty.
Once you buy some sport tape from Walmart and wrap it tight around the handle, the wood handled framers in general are elite compared to all steel or all titanium handled framming hammers! As far as comfort goes, that is, and significantly less vibrations even with traditional steel head framers with wood handles. You can even take it an extra step and buy a pair of sport gloves for even more grip. So you aren't wrong, Ben, on feeling like you need some grip enhancement with the other Stilleto framer.
Do you happen to know if there are thick rubber pads you can put over the striking part of the hammer to make it become a rubber mallet with the heft of the hammer? If there is not such a thing there should be.
I've owned my Ti-Bone for 15+ years. I have only replaced the head once. About once a year I have to tighten the head but I use blue locktite to keep it in their. I frame houses for a living so a good hammer is essential. I have had practically ever hammer out on the market and my stiletto's still my go too.
What difference eh ? I’ll never own another framing hammer .
The weight and impact shock is a world difference
Did you ever try the Martinez hammer? If so what are your thoughts?
@@doesitmatter2754 One of the guys on my crew had one. He really liked it. I did try it out but felt the balance was off.
@@doesitmatter2754buddy has one it’s a great hammer honestly a bit better but not worth it when I already have a tb3
Ben, been skating my whole life and watching your videos for years and just now at 24 years i acquired a job framing houses on the beach. Now i get to enjoy these videos as well. thanks buddy
I've been a framer for around 7 years, I love the Vaughan 23oz California Framing Hammer (curved handle). I actually bought a 16oz Stiletto, but found I didn't like it because it worsened my carpal tunnel and elbow pain due to needing more force to pull out nails, whereas the heavier hammer has more momentum and impact force and makes it a lot easier. And plus, it's only around $45 and lasts several years easily, whereas, like you said, I found the face on my Stiletto flattened quickly.
I also love my Daluge 16oz Smooth-Face Curved handle hammer for working on more finished jobs where you don't want to leave marks.
Tip: make sure the grain direction on your handle has the grain running front to back, not side to side on the hammer, this makes it stronger in that axis and will be less likely to break when really prying on it.
i miss my daluge. i hate thieves. stealing a mans tools is dispicable
I use the Vaughn 19 oz hickory (curved handle) and I absolutely love it but would like more weight I can’t find at any stores near me a 23oz curved handle so I think I’m gonna try this 16 oz stiletto here soon
@@Tonka_6.7I've seen them at Lowe's, but I'm in FL
For wood handles, axes, shovels, etc., I always take off the varnish top coat too. And apply boiled linseed oil once a year instead to help the wood out. Feels better in the hands that way, less slippery when wet too and less blisters.
Just bought the tibone3 smooth head for everything else and the 16 oz wood with a waffle head for framing and that was going to be the first thing in the agenda as soon as I get it in the mail!
I know what linseed oil is, but I haven't heard of it being "boiled". Is that something that all manufacturers do prior to bottling? It doesn't sound like something they'd expect customers to do after purchase, but then I'm a nube.🤷 I'd rather ask here than be standing in my kitchen watching a pot of linseed oil beginning to boil and suddenly wind up in the hospital for something worse than Gorilla Glue girl because I was following some advice in a TH-cam video comment! 🤦 Hahaha!
@@SeanHayesParleys Ha ha! That’s hilarious! Yes, you buy it already labeled boiled linseed oil. The difference between that and regular linseed oil is that it won’t get sticky. Boiled linseed oil is the go to treatment for wood handled tools. It won’t blister your hands and it leaves an amazing patina after some use, and you can reapply every so often. But yeah, don’t be gorilla glue girl. Just go to The hardware store and buy it.
I use it on wood kitchen knife handles, even to protect the metal on garden tools such as loppers, and any wood handled tool I ever buy I sand off the handle to get all the varnish off and then rub it down with oil. Don’t let your buddies see you though, you’re asking for endless jokes
@@fishhunteat I am moving from a eastwing to a s-wood hammer, how do you recommend doing this linseed oil procedure ?
I love learning things. All kinds of “creation” things like carpentry, drywall, woodworking. I’m happy I get to do it here from your videos and often from the comments. This is a great community. 👍
Love a vaughan with a wood handle myself! I take my handles to the bench grinder and carve a shallow groove in a spiral up the handle. Gives me a great grip and I never get my hammer confused with someone elses
Wood is the best feeling handle. Never had a titanium though but I have used steel and fiberglass. 'F' Fiberglass.
@@thezfunk I agree wood is the only way to go! I bought an estwing when I first for into construction but it killed my arm. I do still use it for demo sometimes
i use a sawzall blade to crosshatch the handle
I bought a Boss framing hammer last year and I love it, for the price and quality. I was looking at the TBone but honestly the price was the issue. You raised the question on balance on the wood handle. Great video and content as always.
im looking at a boss hammer vs stilleto, how has the boss hammer held up?
@@Zackfish12345 like a Boss. Best hammer ever
I bought a 19 oz Vaughan you recommended a few years ago, absolutely love it. I also sanded down the handle and added hockey stick grip tape. Down in FL, so kuch frio when its humid and sweat covered.
Holding that wood handle at the very bottom, almost as low as you can, will help. Guys will say thats a macho man contest thing but it actually aids in the proper wrist action which will save you a lot of unnecessary muscle wear and tear in the rest of your arm. Helps snap it.
Larry Haun is one of the best framers of all time. Watching that guy send nails home with one or two blows up into his early 80s is wild. Love your videos! I’d give him a search some time!
5:17 I’ve noticed that grain direction is extremely important when it comes to hammer handles. Most hammer manufacturers have them going the right direction where the wood is strongest for pulling and striking. Often tho you’ll see handles that look like the grain started a twist, or they just shaped them wrong and now the weak side of the grain is being used.
Look at the bottom of your wood handle if it isn’t painted. If the grain is running the same direction as the strike then it’s good.
Now THATS a guy who loves hammers and loves hammering nails!
Maybe a lil too much :)
I love the side nail puller. I’ve used that to clasp onto stubborn concrete anchors then hit the side of the head with another hammer to drive them in. Great multi use addition to the tool
It’s all about the side puller on the TiBone!! Easier to pull nails than with a 48” crowbar…not even kidding…game changer. Really saves your shoulders over time.
I just switched to a Boss Pro series and I am loving it. tons of features and made in the U.S.A.
#praisethecamerawoman (seriously, she was on top of the focus of action, framed well, anticipated, kudos!)
Funny you say the more expensive option tends to grow legs and walk off the job site. It think that depends a lot on where you're located. In Portland we had to secure all our tools in a big chained up job box or in our truck every night. We rarely ever left our tools unattended. Here in AK we can leave carts full of tools on site for a couple days and they are fine. It helps that the buildings we do are usually secure at night but any of the other trades could easily take things when we aren't there if they really wanted.
I have a 16oz wood handle. Wanted a smooth face, but ended up getting the milled face. I LOVE this hammer. It has “grown” to fit my hand beautifully and the milled face has smashed pretty much all the way gone. That’s ok, cuz it’s way better for trim work.
The t-bone I think would be fine for framing, but it’s soooo expensive. I don’t know. For really rough stuff, I pull out my old Estwing that I’ve been swinging for 30 years. Lol
THAT is a tough hammer, but heavier.
I have a tool vest from Occidental, and so wait isn't too much of a hassle. And that tool vest has two hammer holders. Maybe they were intended for different things or, so that you can choose where you hold your hammer. I'm not sure, but either way sometimes I will carry a dogyu Japanese hammer and a stiletto at the same time. Because those Japanese hammers basically have cat's paw nail pullers. So you can even use your two hammers together as a cat's paw
I joined the carpenters union in 1973. I have used Plumb, Vaughan, Douglas, Stiletto, and Hart. I still prefer Wood handles and steel heads. At 67 I have no wrist, elbow, or shoulder problems. Hardcore Hammers makes a great artisan American made hammer
I started in the Palo Alto CA local Union in 1964 and know exactly what you are talking about. Stiletto 20 oz framer and 16 oz Vaughan trim hammer were my choices; never tried any of the expensive exotic stuff they are showing. By the way I do understand the currency value in 2023 is virtually zero! All quality tools are expensive; even non US made stuff.
Carpenters Union 1622 Hayward CA@@carlcampbell6827
I love a 16oz smooth face straight wood handle Stiletto. Now that most nailing isn't done with a hammer the downsides are less of an issue for me. Just remember a hammer is not a pry bar and your handles will last much longer. I do however switch out my hammer for an Estwing when doing concrete jobs..
Yeah I run the 14oz stilletto hickory handke and If im doing any prying that could break the handle I just go grap a pry bar. And I also switch to a cheaper more durable hammer doing concrete work.
I want to try different hammers but as a trim carpenter I use the butt of my Estwing as a rubber mallet and I can't give up that feature. If I'm doing t&g pine or cypress or something then I'll use the proper tool (an actual rubber mallet), but I don't keep a mallet in my tool bags all the time and when I have a board that needs some coaxing into place the butt of the Estwing works great for pounding in a piece of delicate trim without damaging it.
I did contract trim work for years and I like your idea of using butt of Estwing as mallet. There was no chance of me using anything but a 16 oz wood handled Stiletto or Vaughn. I had to use a block of wood to tap something in place.
I own and like them both, they each have a different feel. Just depends what I'm doing. I'll tell you one thing is the T bone pings like an anvil with every hit!
I use a 19oz Vaughn straight claw. Absolutely love it. Had it for about 3 years now and just noticed about a month ago my head is cracked on the neck web. I have completely abused this hammer and it will be my next. Just couldn't see me spending that much on a hammer.
That's a good hammer. I don't blame you.
Is the Vaughn US made and does it have wooden handle?
I'm an electrician so I only ever hammer staples (thousands of em though) and scab in some 2x4s with nails. I tried every steel hammer out there, Vaughn was my favorite. Then I tried my buddie's 14 oz wood handle Stiletto, bought one that night and never looked back. It's like having a cheat code. The palm swell about halfway down fits me like a glove, hands are on the larger side.
He took a big risk lending you a wooden-handled hammer. That's like lending someone a chisel. He must really trust you. Or he's a moron. Or both. :)
I did a bit of an investment in myself about two years ago and bought a Diamondback toolbelt together with a Martinez M1 hammer. I work fulltime building Skateparks in both wood and concrete. We don´t use nails alot but everytime we do or I need to use my Martinez for something I get excited about it. My coworkers have no clue as too why anyone would spend that money on a hammer and a toolbelt, but for me, working with top quality tools is such a joy!
I’ve always been a “thumb up” kind of hammerer. Just the way I learned, I think it feels better on my wrist
I just switched from the estwing all steel 16 oz smooth face framing hammer to a Hickory handle 19 oz steel head milled face Milwaukee. it's a world of difference! I loved the estwing because of how light it is I'm a bigger guy and have no problems swinging a bigger hammer but the smaller one I find less fatiguing also the tines on the back one is about a half inch shorter because I broke it but it works great as a makeshift pulp hook for grabbing and pulling material. The Hickory handle hammer absorbs shock much better the milled face doesn't slip off nails or my nail punch love the difference also the Hickory can be carved to customize it
We've got identical hammers! Only difference is my Milwaukee has a smooth face. Definitely makes hammering long nails easier without much added weight. If you're a big guy, consider the 20oz estwing.
Well, now I want a $230 hammer that I'll use twice a year. Thanks, Ben.
Turning your little "woo!" into my notification sound.
230$ haha man there 280$+
I like that your nerded out on hammers.
I have both, I prefer the wood handled one. The wood helps reduce vibrations.
I sometimes hold my brick hammer with the thumb like that, when I want to give it a precise tap
i have the Ti Bone 16 and I love it , used to have a 14 (that one grew legs), then I found online the Martinez M1 when they came out and ordered one of the first ever made at the time, hands down the best hammer of the lot IMHO, the head is forget steel, the milled head lasted me a long time, it has replaceable head and claws, replaceable handle, they even have customizing options, I really think you should check it out, the balance, handle, claw, nail puller, and everything has definately a different feel, the only drawback is the price, it changed the game for my carpal tunnel too, it is a definitely improvement form the TiBone, Mark Martinez was the owner of Stiletto, and made all these improvements for the Martinez hammer.
I have a few decent Estwings that can get the job done for my day to day and as a remodeler.
I have borrowed a framer's Stilletto and it is a different world of comfort.
I think it might be justified to buy a top end hammer as it is still cheaper than elbow surgery.
Honestly stiletto wood hammer is $100? I found one a guy had for $40 without a handle and the handle was $15. A little cheaper. Definitely cheaper than they used to be. There is more titanium competition now so I guess it’s that. Also you can sand off the finish the put on and use linseed oil and it’ll make the handle more durable and comfortable in the hand. Idk. I figured I’d try the cheaper version before dropping $250. I’ll probably go for the Martinez hammer though. Same guy made both stiletto and Martinez and Stiletto was sold to Milwaukee.
The old steel Estwings were real cripplers with extended use.
If you have a hammerloop on the side or back of your belt the rubberhandle will catch more easily, thats why people using the hammer alot prefer woodhandle.
The hammer also slides out of a rubber sleeve very slowly over time and it gets annoying.
Most framing crews I’ve worked with the past couple years have banned milled face hammers, too many guys forget to swap out for a smooth face when doing some like putting fascia boards or window trim on (most of the houses I work on use cedar trim) or some thing a milled face hammer shouldn’t be used for
sand the finish off where you hold it. Wood surface is sticker than varnish.
I love the enthusiasm brother hammer nerds for life
I bought a Martinez M1 after snapping the claw on my Ti-bone a few years back. Had it for about a decade but I had a "brave" moment at a new job lol. Had a 14 oz woody too but sold it because it felt unproductive. Had a 23 oz Vaughan too but it wore me out so fast for overhead work that it lasted less than 3 months on the belt. YMMV but the Martinez helped sooooo much with my carpal tunnel and I can honestly say it's been the only hammer I've used for everything from finishing to high rise formwork for 3 years now
Ti bone is 100% worth the extra. #1 is the side nail puller. Honorable mentions are the holes in the handle and the changeable faces. The handle holes can be used to add extra leverage to a cats paw. The most important on the job use of the handle holes is to be able to use the hammer for a reaching overhead and to use as a crutch for walking crossways on a steeper pitched roof. Hold the hammer head with the magnet in the center of the palm of your hand and with your middle finger in the top hole. This gives you about a foot and a half of reach. I use it for that several times every day on the job.
The straight wood handle is better than the curve . It feel better in the hand .
I owned the original T-Bone with the yellow hatchet-style. I framed houses with it for a few years and eventually gave it to a friend as a gift when I changed trades, thinking that I could always just pick up another one if I regretted not having it later. Shortly after that, they discontinued that specific model. I've since bought the new model (that you're holding), and I hated it! Right away I took an angle grinder to that worthless nail-puller on the side of the head, then a file, then a tiny sanding block, then steel wool. Eventually, the head was symmetrical again; as if it had been manufactured that way. If I want to pull nails, I have a cat's paw for that. In fact, I have the cat's paw that they sell. That new handle design is awful too; vastly inferior to the old yellow one in shape and feel. So I cut the molded-rubber off of there and made a nice hatchet-style grip for it out of bare hickory and finished it with a few coats of linseed oil. It looks gorgeous! But that's an awful lot of work just to fix a hammer that costs around $200 bucks! Stiletto, what was wrong with the old design? It was everything a framing hammer needed to be. And if you want evidence beyond just my word for it, check Ebay for the original yellow hatchet-style handled T-Bones. They're almost never there! Conspicuous by their absence. That should tell you something... I think if customers are being asked to spend that much, they should offer a variety of designs; at least the styles they've already offered!
Don't worry the tires on the car will pick up those nails. 🤣🤣🤣
Ive had a Kobalt hamner for 20 plus years.. still functional.
Obviously this is for pro carpenters not kids like you homeowner diy 😂
I have the Ti Bone love it.
Sometimes if your on a job and another Carpenter asks you for a loan of a Hammer and you hand it to them they very rarely want to give it back.
The biggest job i have is to watch it at teabreak i never leave it out of sight because it could go walking.
The thumb imprint on the handle is very useful and suits my hands perfect.
The only thing downside to the hammer is in very warm weather your hand gets sweaty and the handle becomes slippery.
I bought a estwing Al pro about 4 years ago, and love it. Been given a tibone 3 and wow. Awesome for framing. But I find myself picking up the estwing by default now and actually using it for everything...
Put blue locktite on the screw. It will keep it from loosening up.
Been on construction jobs all my life & im 51 now, the Vaughan California Framer 17" straight handle is the best hammer I've ever used. I grew up watching old school construction workers, 100* weather, no shirts, cutoff shorts, speed after coffee, beer before lunch, not a saw on the job had a guard, some guys useing rigging axes, & you got paid by what you got done. First time i took a metal handled hammer to work my boss threw it as far as he could & the lift ran it over & bent it. Told me those where for form setters & sent me to buy a real WOOD HANDLE framing hammer. Hell, nowadays mose people don't even know what a rigging ax is! By the way, if your handle broke you went home put the head in the oven & put on a new handle. And heres a tip, dont used your arm to push the nail in! Swing that hammer & use the wrist, let the hammer do the work.
I do Formwork and have owned a Tibone 2 for 3 years until it unfortunately grew legs and walked away one day... Once that happened I "upgraded" to the Tibone 3. Do not upgrade to the Tibone 3 if you use a Tibone 2 and here's why... For starters its thinner, the shaft of the hammer is thinner and you can really feel it compared to the Tibone 2. It shakes a lot more and feels a little bit different in my opinion with the years of experience I've had with the Tibone 2, however compared to a wood handle I do enjoy using the titanium better but that's just my opinion. Second the claws are less durable, working with concrete and chipping stuff away these claws like to twist easier and I'm honestly afraid that they will snap so I primarily use the side puller if I can or I resort to using my nail puller and put the nail puller in the upper slot of the Tibone for extra leverage (If you haven't tried that you should because it works a treat especially when combined with the titanium stiletto nail puller). Third the grip on the new Tibone 3 is stiffer, which yes is an upgrade from previous however coming from somebody that never had the grip failure issue with the Tibone 2 I find it uncomfortable when nailing all day. Just today alone I pinned and nailed ledger for a building and my hand was killing after it, it just doesn't have the umff I want and need in it anymore so for those reasons I will be "investing" In a Martinez M1. Yes its more expensive but from using co workers and experiencing it hands on compared to the Tibone 3 I can confidently say that the Martinez M1 is the superior hammer if your looking to spend the 300+ dollars already.
Working around concrete, forms and steel can trash a quality hammer pretty quickly. I have not worked for years, but honestly I can not imagine spending $250-$300 even with currency value at near zero! If I was still working, I would find some good used US made Stiletto and Vaughn wooden handled hammers and refurbish them and replace handles as needed. Made in China, Tiwan or Mexico are out.
Electrician here, I love the thumb spot for nailing staples in tight places.
Hey Vancouver. Oregon here. I was wondering if the “easy break” Loctite would work to keep the head tight.
On the wood handle, if you sand off the varnish and replace it with boiled linseed oil, you'll have much better grip.
Good tip on wooden handle prep.
I’ve even got chipping and blow outs on mine. Used it over 6 years though it seems like there’s some kind of kinetic charge or something when striking titanium to steel that causes it to break down
The ti-bone is still doing well. Using it a lot lately. I like that it has a steel face.
Did I really just watch a guy talk about hammers for the last 20 minutes?
Yes, yes I did.
I rest my thumb slightly off centre on the back of the hammer. This adds a level of control over the hammer and stops its tendency to pivot back against the webbing between the Thumb and Forefinger. That's how I was taught when I first started Carpentry and it's stuck ever since.
Thanks Ms Vancouver Carpenter for asking questions for us, I was not sure either if this was the only reason :P (at 8:00)
I was given a Stiletto mini 14 that is pretty much cooked. (Face is worn and Allen bolt is siezed, grip is work and not replacable on this model) but I love it! I've had a few cheaper framing nailers and I need something incredibly heavy to get the power I need for working with hardwood but the Stiletto gives my the same result as an 18 but with the weight of a 14. It's awesome. I've been considering buying a new one but the issue is I use it for demo as much as I do general construction so a $400 hammer breaking off dry mortar doesn't sound appealing for me.
I must say, absolutely love the threepeat of your reaction to pulling the nail out 😁
I used to use my thumb as a guide then I kept wondering why I always snacked my fingers then my inlaw who been a cabinet maker and general contractor taught me a few tricks, heavily critiqued me and laughed at I was going through a box of bandaids. I still have lots to learn but I'm always looking to improve
I have the TiBone 14. Had it for over a decade. I'd never buy the milled face framer with the wood handle--can't replace the face once it's done for--'Mushes out fast' as you say! I have the little wood-handled Stilletto finish hammer-smooth face- and it's awesome.
Love your videos! You always make me smile!
I just bought the stiletto a few days ago, before I was even aware of this video. I immediately noticed the slippy grip. I'm going to try wrapping friction tape around the handle
Never hammered a nail in my life, still watched this entire video.
With the stilleto 16oz hickory I recommend sanding off the film and staining it and maybe use a different kind of coating on it really could work on any hickory handle hammer
the thumb indention on the hammer is good for nailing above your head, like installing soffit or ceilings
I have the ti-bone 2 for over 10 years. I love this hammer. I have never had any issues with it. I just make sure never to loan it out. The grip on the ti-bone 3 sux. And the thumb indent is perfect. Thanks.
I had the original version of the tbone ( pre side nail puller with the gray grip) for years and loved it. Before that my go to was a 21-23 oz Hart or Vaughan. I also have a couple 14oz wood handle stilettos that are great as well. Recently I passed on my old tbone because the grip was getting loose and pretty beat. (still had the original face as well because I'm one of the odd framers that prefer a milled face that's so beat it might as well be smooth or just a smooth face.) I bought one of the Martinez hammers and it really is an incredibly nice hammer. Took some getting used to after using the tibone for so long but you'll have that. And sure they're expensive but it's a tool that I actually use extensively every day. I can't say a hammer has ever owed me a dime no matter what it cost me.
Nice. This is Exactly the comparison I was needing. I'm buying one this week!!😋
Did you ever make what the hammers were worth from this video?
The TBONE 3 grow legs when left behind over night be careful
I used a rasp on my wooden handle to reshape slightly then used bee's wax to improve the grip...keep bee's wax in my bag to reapply once in awhile to maintain the grip feel.
I do the same. But I prefer boiled lind seed oil.
Spar is worth a try if you don't mind sanding off the finish that came on the handle. If you apply 3- 4 coats it gives a rubber feel, it's excellent with moisture resistance and is more durable than most other wood finishes short of epoxy. Worth noting spar will yellow/amber wood a bit.
Foul have yellow card 😂
I've got the 14oz Stiletto and honestly it doesn't see much use. For me Vaughan is the best for framing, mostly the 19 oz straight handle and the 23oz when I want a little extra power. They make a pretty nice drywall hatchet as well.
Honestly I’ve used a stiletto tb3 for high rise formwork for a year now. I like it, but it’s definitely a framers hammer not a form workers. Hitting jacks and rebar and shit like that makes my face always come loose, so bad that I’ve had to super glue it almost at the end of every day, bought a new face and a few months after same thing, I’ve epoxied it on now and that seemed to do the trick hahaha. But also anybody that’s familiar with form work stilettos suck ass for working on Peri walls or gang forms, but it’s amazing for closing deck or working with nails. But sometimes the swing doesn’t hit hard enough and you have to hammer clamps 30 fuckin times just to get them off. East wing 28 or 30 oz is the absolute best for walls. But I still love my stiletto
Good to know!
I can relate. My wife likes to ask questions and make helpful comments while I am on the phone.
Less grip on the wood, but less harsh on your hands/elbows/shoulders.
Forget the hammers, get yourself some new sawhorses! 😉
I have been framing for 4 years and have been using the TBone3 the whole 4 years.. Never had to re-tighting screw on head.. Almost the framers i work with on the subdivisions sites use the same hammer and say it the best..
Here in the good ole south I’m probably the only one with a stiletto hammer 😂 everyone here uses lowes or Home Depot hammers.
Out east when you miss the nail we say "lightning hammer" since it never hits the same spot twice lol.
For bashing nails, not backframing, a Vaughn California framer or a big(18oz+) Douglas Daluge is king. 22oz+ oz estwing for formwork.
I love the Hickory curve handle, all the OG carpenter told me it save their elbow. I've try the straight wood handle and the hammer flies off my hand even with gloves, I have to buy a new curve handle for my new hammer. I usually buy the stiletto handle wrap for my hammer, to have a better grip.
Been pounding nails for over 60 years now mostly on framing .I find now I need handles that are on the thicker side ,I can't hold the handles like in the past.
I've always been happy with my 16 and 24 oz estwings. I can't justify spending that much on a hammer, though that's some nice waffling on the head of the Ti bone.
It's about the weight on your belt. I have the stilletto ti bone, and the nail puller. Drops lbs off your belt or vest.
@@h20s8804 I also continue to read and hear that it's about getting the same impact power with less weight so it's easier on one's joints. Do you find you get the same or even greater power with less weight?
@@SeanHayesParleys I think for nails, when you have to use the hammer, it's just as effective as a big heavy hammer. But there's no way the Ti hammer is as momentous as a big ol' 24oz hammer for moving walls at the plates or driving stakes or stuff like that. I love the Ti hammer and nail puller because they're light in the vest or on the waist.
I bought a used TBII, and it was well worn. The waffle face was worn completely smooth, and the claw was worn shorter...lots of use for sure, but still very usable.
I really like this community of hammer lovers.
The DeWalk demo hammer is a must have…it might be called something different…you’ll recognize it the minute you see it..best hammer I have ever owned.. try one it will blow both those away…hamming nails and demolition of showers or walls.
We been building stuff for a long time...Ill take my my Samsung Galaxy with a Milwaukee hammer PC .Or we can be the Apple I Phone Martinez hammer???
Can you sand off the finish from the Stiletto handle and oil it for better grip?
The proper place to hold a hammer is where you feel like it wants to slip down too. Your hand knows you're holding the hammer wrong.
I bought a Stilletto TI15 about 6-7yrs ago. Comcerning the interchangeable head I almost immediately switched over to a smooth face even though the bulk of my work at the time was framing. I though I would switch back and forth between the waffle head and smooth face head but I just stuck
With the smooth face. Awesome
Hammer. I cracked the head down about 4 years ago and it has not moved,in fact I'm not sure I could change it out if I wanted to. I have beaten in nails, demoed, cranked and pryed, hammered wood and steel stakes, used the face and claw to chip off concrete seams, chiseled, etc. Zero complaints. I'll probably be using this hammer until my last day on the job.
I prefer the wood. That being said if you're buying a 16 oz, pick through the lot. There's diff curves, thickness, etc. Also comes without the ax handle for the old fellers.
I'm a drummer and I hate the feel of new drum sticks... The dry wood handles just feel slippery and wrong! I like them better when they've been played in a little and the handles seem stickier... but then the tips get all busted up and they sound like crap on the cymbals so I have to get new sticks... I hate the feel of new drum sticks......
Why bang nails in by hand? Nail gun for framing, screws and impact driver for concrete forms.
The tendency to grow legs and walk off site ahahaha well said man. I got mine stolen. 3 months later one of my buddies saw this guy using it (I've marked it) he got fired the next day. Lol
A nice alternative that won't break the bank is the Estwing AL pro. It's aluminum body and steel head and claws. Been using mine for a few months and I'm super happy with it.
I’ve had the tibone 3 for about a year maybe more and I love it! Rolling those nails out with the side of the head is nice!
I want to get a Martinez m4 12oz for finish nails!
Also, I sand my wood handles to where I want my hand to slide to. Wood is king because of the customizing
6:13 "But they have a tendency to grow legs and walk off site" 😅🤣😂
It looks like the titanium drives more
My current boss had his Stilletto snap right in the handle, he runs the Doc Martin hammer now cause he says Stillettos only have a one year warranty from purchase date and the Doc Martin has lifetime warranty.
Once you buy some sport tape from Walmart and wrap it tight around the handle, the wood handled framers in general are elite compared to all steel or all titanium handled framming hammers! As far as comfort goes, that is, and significantly less vibrations even with traditional steel head framers with wood handles. You can even take it an extra step and buy a pair of sport gloves for even more grip. So you aren't wrong, Ben, on feeling like you need some grip enhancement with the other Stilleto framer.
Do you happen to know if there are thick rubber pads you can put over the striking part of the hammer to make it become a rubber mallet with the heft of the hammer? If there is not such a thing there should be.