Thanks guys! Much respect for your combined wisdom and experience! I just finished watching all 17 videos, will be watching 18 next. I recently purchased a '76 MK III and found your videos fascinating. Mine is pretty much already restored, so I had to enjoy watchin you guys restore yours, lol! I did just add a Reed Valve from NYC Norton. I don't recall seeing one in your build, but your timing case vent is plugged, so I'm wondering if you are using one? I am looking forward to riding as soon as the weather gets a little better.
Yes, the original breather location in the back of the timing case is plugged, and we installed a sump breather. When I went to purchase one from Jim Comstock like all the rest of the ones we have, Jim told me he sold the mfg rights too NYC Norton and could buy one from them if I needed one but they were out of stock when I tried so I purchased one from JS motorsport. I thought we showed that in one of the earlier episodes. The reed valve breather is a must if you'd like a leak free motor because they work very well.
Thanks Jesse, @jessesvintagegarage765 I have since gone back and at least found where you can clearly see the JS Motorsport reed valve on the bottom of your engine, right at the beginning of episode-8 where you are putting the bottom end into the frame. The reason I bought mine was to replace a spring loaded anti-wet sump check valve the PO of my bike had installed. They may be fine, but I didn't like trusting anything which could potentially obstruct oil flow. The reed valve will clear a wet sump with just a kick or two before starting, and provides the balanced engine pressure as you mention. No more leaking gaskets! This is also said to make the engine run better as well. Looking forward to much riding this spring and winter!
Great job, bike looks very nice. I am a little surprised you did not use the gas line metal Farrells to finish off the perfect factory look other then the seat🤔
Very nice. Not sure about that seat, but I could learn to love it if I had that bike in my garage. I like the petcock holder tool, did you make that? I recently put decals on my TR6 side panels. I took some painters tape and cut a piece about the size of the decal. Then I put that on the side panel and walked around looking at it from multiple angles, adjusting it to make sure it was straight and centered. Then when I had it where I wanted it, I put a strip of tape above it and one below it, then removed the original piece of tape. With tape creating a straight line above and below where the decal goes, it's hard to mess it up. Its funny how you think it's perfect, then at a certain angle it doesn't look right. You end up comprising a little. Your did nice job just eye-balling it. (I didn't know that was your dad until you mentioned it in this video. That's pretty col that you guys share a love of vintage bikes.)
Congrats on the build, great series! I like your side mirrors; can you tell me what they are and where you got them? Hard to find 3/8 UNF stemmed mirrors. Second question is that I bought a Don Pender oil pressure switch, not sure if that's what you have, but in any case, I found the banjo bolt provided by Don doesn't have a second shoulder to correctly fit the pressure switch and the stainless oil line banjo. Did you use a different bolt or just line it up and tighten it best you could?
That mirror is a clone Harley touring bike mirror bought from ebay they are excellent quality also it doesn't have 3/8" threaded stem it's a reduced 5/16" threaded section we put a chrome 3/4" or 1" long x 5/16" hole bushing it works perfectly and looks good and can see clearly down the road. We put an oil sending unit on from Don also, but we didn't have problems with the banjo bolt because it had two shoulders and seemed to fit well.
@@BRUCE_SWAN_MOTORCYCLES We used a spacer like this Everbilt 5/16 in. x 1/2 in. Steel Spacers in Chrome (2-Piece/Pack) 800294 - The Home Depot www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-x-1-2-in-Steel-Spacers-in-Chrome-2-Piece-Pack-800294/204604743 they come in various lengths but this helps eliminate the extra length in the stem with out cutting it and putting the spacer above to raise the mirror helps make room for your hands
Well, all red wires are Positive and they all go to ground, the reds will be connecting to the frame or engine thats the easiest way to tell by just looking. All Nortons, BSA's and Triumphs were positive ground until 1979 when Triumph switched to Negative ground.
The Norton 850 is absolutely beautiful,
An absolute credit to you guys,
First rate job,
Cheers Paul 👍
Thanks
Great job. Very impressive
Thanks
Thanks guys! Much respect for your combined wisdom and experience! I just finished watching all 17 videos, will be watching 18 next. I recently purchased a '76 MK III and found your videos fascinating. Mine is pretty much already restored, so I had to enjoy watchin you guys restore yours, lol!
I did just add a Reed Valve from NYC Norton. I don't recall seeing one in your build, but your timing case vent is plugged, so I'm wondering if you are using one? I am looking forward to riding as soon as the weather gets a little better.
Yes, the original breather location in the back of the timing case is plugged, and we installed a sump breather. When I went to purchase one from Jim Comstock like all the rest of the ones we have, Jim told me he sold the mfg rights too NYC Norton and could buy one from them if I needed one but they were out of stock when I tried so I purchased one from JS motorsport. I thought we showed that in one of the earlier episodes. The reed valve breather is a must if you'd like a leak free motor because they work very well.
Thanks Jesse,
@jessesvintagegarage765 I have since gone back and at least found where you can clearly see the JS Motorsport reed valve on the bottom of your engine, right at the beginning of episode-8 where you are putting the bottom end into the frame. The reason I bought mine was to replace a spring loaded anti-wet sump check valve the PO of my bike had installed. They may be fine, but I didn't like trusting anything which could potentially obstruct oil flow. The reed valve will clear a wet sump with just a kick or two before starting, and provides the balanced engine pressure as you mention. No more leaking gaskets! This is also said to make the engine run better as well. Looking forward to much riding this spring and winter!
Great job, bike looks very nice. I am a little surprised you did not use the gas line metal Farrells to finish off the perfect factory look other then the seat🤔
Very nice. Not sure about that seat, but I could learn to love it if I had that bike in my garage. I like the petcock holder tool, did you make that?
I recently put decals on my TR6 side panels. I took some painters tape and cut a piece about the size of the decal. Then I put that on the side panel and walked around looking at it from multiple angles, adjusting it to make sure it was straight and centered. Then when I had it where I wanted it, I put a strip of tape above it and one below it, then removed the original piece of tape. With tape creating a straight line above and below where the decal goes, it's hard to mess it up. Its funny how you think it's perfect, then at a certain angle it doesn't look right. You end up comprising a little. Your did nice job just eye-balling it. (I didn't know that was your dad until you mentioned it in this video. That's pretty col that you guys share a love of vintage bikes.)
I wondered about the comments we would get on the seat, That petcock holding tool, we did make, it works great,
@@jessesvintagegarage765
Not sure how thus works
Congrats on the build, great series! I like your side mirrors; can you tell me what they are and where you got them? Hard to find 3/8 UNF stemmed mirrors. Second question is that I bought a Don Pender oil pressure switch, not sure if that's what you have, but in any case, I found the banjo bolt provided by Don doesn't have a second shoulder to correctly fit the pressure switch and the stainless oil line banjo. Did you use a different bolt or just line it up and tighten it best you could?
That mirror is a clone Harley touring bike mirror bought from ebay they are excellent quality also it doesn't have 3/8" threaded stem it's a reduced 5/16" threaded section we put a chrome 3/4" or 1" long x 5/16" hole bushing it works perfectly and looks good and can see clearly down the road. We put an oil sending unit on from Don also, but we didn't have problems with the banjo bolt because it had two shoulders and seemed to fit well.
I found the mirrors but can't find a 5/16" to 3/8" adapter. Can you point me to the one you are using? Thanks!
@@BRUCE_SWAN_MOTORCYCLES We used a spacer like this Everbilt 5/16 in. x 1/2 in. Steel Spacers in Chrome (2-Piece/Pack) 800294 - The Home Depot
www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-x-1-2-in-Steel-Spacers-in-Chrome-2-Piece-Pack-800294/204604743 they come in various lengths but this helps eliminate the extra length in the stem with out cutting it and putting the spacer above to raise the mirror helps make room for your hands
Got it, clever! Thanks for the info. Are you guys on AccessNorton?
@@BRUCE_SWAN_MOTORCYCLES Yes my father is sometimes, a couple of our videos were linked on access Norton by another subscriber
Nice work! Do you sell the bikes you restore?
As of now these bikes we are working on or restoring are our personal bikes and are not for sale, sorry, but thanks for your great comments
How do you know if your bike is positive ground without a battery ? You have great videos…. Thx
Well, all red wires are Positive and they all go to ground, the reds will be connecting to the frame or engine thats the easiest way to tell by just looking. All Nortons, BSA's and Triumphs were positive ground until 1979 when Triumph switched to Negative ground.