I’ve already begun the swap and have done quite a bit of work with the help of some friends! First video of pulling the motor will go live this weekend. Check out my Patreon or Instagram for the most up to date content on the swap. In the meantime, I’ve got to order a few more parts…
Maybe some usefull recommendations: 1. Gearborx. Please check and count the teeth of the gears of the primary chains infront of the gearbox. Search for a chain set "7" or "8" - and new chains are a nice improvement. 2. Check where the tripoid of the Drive shafts are if it is worn. This causes Vibrations during acceleration. Easy fix: just change the left and the right pocket they are interchangeble 3. Open the Diff-Box on the other side and check the bevel gear and crown wheel that it is tight (can be measured, no loud "click-clock" when you move it forth and back 4. Flywheel and Clutch: Use the latest Flywheel of the 900OG and a Saab 9000 Turbo Clutch and mill a 60/2 Slot on the backside of the flywheel, and drill a whole in the aloy plate behind the flywheel to place the crankshaft sensor (for a future Trionic 5.2 Conversion in Combination with AC! ;-)) Use a new Cylinder at the clutch. 5. Engine: Check or directly change the Main and the connecting rod bearings without removing the Crankshaft (if no visible damage) - because now its easy access. Use the standard size (if the engine wasn't rebuilt once) 6. Engine: Check or change the Chain, the tensioner and rail BTW: Disadvantage of this short shifter: More Force can be tranfered into the gearbox during shifting. This can bent the Forks! And check what kind of Gearbox you have. Centering of the Gear lever in the Gearbox (put it in neutral and twist the shift shaft, does it "jump" back?) (need the later Shifter-Block where no Springs keep the Shifter in neutral. Or do you have the old gearbox (need the Gear lever box with the little springs that the gearleaver jumps back infront of third and fourth gear. If everything is done there is last tricky thing: adjusting the Gear Lever Position. This has to be done precisely if you want to achieve a precise shifting. Put the Box in neutral, open the clamp that the linkage is moving free over the shift shaft. Let someone hold the Shifter in neutral and then tight the clamp. Check on a testdrive if you can shift into all gears. You may have to adjust the leaver a bit more to the front or the rear, that every gear can be put in and stays in. Have fun and good luck!
Jacob, you’re going to be loving the 900T so much more after it’s manual! Looking forward to seeing the process. I live in an apt so I have to live vicariously through you and your Auto Autopsies!
Can't wait to see the swap. Love this project you're working on. Scanwest Autosport in Washington is great! I swapped an engine in a 9-3 for my son and the first trip was from here in AZ to WA. While there the ECU died. Anthony Ferra directed me to them and they had an ECU programmed and back on the road home.
The resurrection of the true Classic Saab driving experience has begun! 👍 Good for you. I hear Scanwest is a good shop. Nice of them to help you out. We have a few good shops up here in the Seattle area as there more Saabs per capita than usual. So many Scandinavians settled here years ago.
Your key from ScanWest was a good choice. Rob, the owner, is awesome. I bought a shop car from him the 3rd month he was in business. It was not a Saab. It was a baby blue 1971 dodge colt. Not long after my dad bought a 1977 Saab 99 5 door, was chocolate brown. That was the start of my and my families journey with Saabs. That was something about ‘87-‘88. Since then we have collectively owned 12 Saab 99’s, 2 9000’s, and 3 900’s. Currently still own 2 classic 900 convertibles. Just remember that Rob at ScanWest or his team will be your best resource for sure. I learned how to rebuild and restore Saab from him.
You may already know to drive the new rear main seal all of the way in until it bottoms out. The factory only drove the original seal in until it was flush. I recently serviced the entire clutch in my 1988 Turbo vert and also the rear main seal. So far zero leaks from the seal. I also recommend using a thin coat of Three Bond on the mating surfaces of the engine block and transmission. Just as you do on the valve cover when installing a new gasket. You may already know all of this and if not I can assure you that this method has been working for me for many years with success.
Liking the project! Don't forget to change the o-ring on the oil pickup tube in the sump and the front main seal, which is not easily accessed with the engine in place. Also changing the seal on the gear shift axle on the gearbox, the one where the gear linkage rod connects, might be a good idea. They always leak there.
you should do the clutch. They are not $$ and even though it is simple on these old 900's THe SPG had a more robust clutch pressure plate. Probably $200-300. The SPG gear box most have lower gear ratio's and are not the best for cruising. In UK and europe they did make the Final drive gears much taller. There was what they call the "8" gear that makes it much better cruising
oil pump o-ring, alternator bushings. take minutes to do instead of hours, add little grease to oil pump gear it will pick up oil faster.. clutch master, slave cylinder and line engine out retorque upper control arm bushing brackets
If the trans is still out...good time to replace the shift shaft seal..and use the thick rear diff cover with the filter and magnet. Clean both...the filter is super fragile so be careful.
Oh and one other thing. The short shifter as good as it is. Cool I mean. This will cause more problems by putting more strain on your syncros by effecting quicker gear changes. In motoracing we would get rid of 5th gear and make it a 4 speed to take some load off the syncros and even then treat it gently. It's all fun until it breaks. Just some thoughts for you. Please don't take it as negative vibs. Just food for thought. Just wanna help. Cheers from Downunder.
Congrats on getting the 5 speed. I'm not going to go into tranny as plenty are talking about it. You're putting on a belt for the AC compressor. Someone may have already by told you, but all 900s have a fresh air duct in the center register that is not heated or cooled. So if you're AC is working, not cooled air from the center register is normal. I had to close mine in winter.
They are always in the yards here in Orlando if anyone needs anything i can go get and mail it no problem and in decent shape also ive come across a few with clean ass interiors too
@@AutoAutopsy yeah its looking like its going to be fun ill keep you posted on insta im really excited to learn the ins and outs of a car and cry doing so lol
Honestly man, I would just buy a manual 9-3. Trust me, it’s nearly impossible to do lol 😅 it’s much more involved than the swap I’m doing. If it was easier I would have already done it to my 9-3!
pretty sure i need to switch entire cabin harness ive just been staring at wiring diagrams on wis soo much information saabs are legit the jailbroken iphone of the car industry in my eyes ive been looking at exactly how everything works learned so much loving it appreciate the advice i just really love the way these machines come together and just work perfectly
completely unrelated and I'm sorry for that but, I have a 2007 93 and was wondering if you know off the top of your head if the Schrader valve on the AC can be replaced with a replacement valve or if the whole AC hose has to be replaced? PS This new project is fun to watch!
@@AutoAutopsy dang... Not a facebooker anymore so I guess the search continues lol. Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm just gonna have to go put my hands on it.
In my opinion, the Gearbox-Design itself is great, but in my view, SAAB should have made a dry-sump-oilsystem and take the bigger space, where the oil used to be, to make the gearbox, better sayed the entire inside of the box bigger and therefore stronger. by the way, i am still looking for why the gearbox is weak, and what exactly on the gearbox is weak.i know that the base-design was 4-speed for around 110hp, was upgraded to 5-speed, and they used better internals, and that they had low space inside, but for me, that doesnt explain why this boxes are so famous for beeing problematic. also instead of tripple chains in front, i would have used just a big and strong shaft to guide the power from the engine/clutch to the "down under australia" gearbox
It’s not really that, as much as I know that I had the chance to grab the manual and swap it, which almost never comes up at our yards!! But yeah, the 5 speed is definitely better than the auto 🤣👍🏼
This is not a good idea! The automatic box is way more reliable. Better hang on to it. You're putting a high mileage manual gearbox behind a Turbo of some 175 ish hp. It wont last long and you will have to pull it out again. You should at the very least replace the syncros to buy yourself time. Saab had endless warranty issues with the turbo manual transmission 900i classic models. I'd also replace the clutch plate with a new one as well. Don't want to be negative just giving you the heads up so to speak. Less hassles down the line. I do like the project though. It's fun. Cheers from Downunder.
The manual trans has less mileage than the auto trans and is coming from a more powerful car. I don’t plan on shifting it or driving it too hard, but I’ll look out for that.
Dude, you will regret not fitting a new clutch now while it's apart. EVERYTHING will have to come apart again. Especially if you will be selling it. But that's just me.
I see your point. Clutches on these are easy, relatively speaking. It won’t have to come completely apart to do that job, if I need to. I am putting a lot of money into this thing already, so having a good used clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate to put in will very likely be fine!! Thanks for the input 🙌🏼😁
I’ve already begun the swap and have done quite a bit of work with the help of some friends! First video of pulling the motor will go live this weekend. Check out my Patreon or Instagram for the most up to date content on the swap. In the meantime, I’ve got to order a few more parts…
😫. Besides, it’ll void the manufacturers warranty!😊
I hit “like” solely based on the title
☺️
Maybe some usefull recommendations:
1. Gearborx. Please check and count the teeth of the gears of the primary chains infront of the gearbox. Search for a chain set "7" or "8" - and new chains are a nice improvement.
2. Check where the tripoid of the Drive shafts are if it is worn. This causes Vibrations during acceleration. Easy fix: just change the left and the right pocket they are interchangeble
3. Open the Diff-Box on the other side and check the bevel gear and crown wheel that it is tight (can be measured, no loud "click-clock" when you move it forth and back
4. Flywheel and Clutch: Use the latest Flywheel of the 900OG and a Saab 9000 Turbo Clutch and mill a 60/2 Slot on the backside of the flywheel, and drill a whole in the aloy plate behind the flywheel to place the crankshaft sensor (for a future Trionic 5.2 Conversion in Combination with AC! ;-)) Use a new Cylinder at the clutch.
5. Engine: Check or directly change the Main and the connecting rod bearings without removing the Crankshaft (if no visible damage) - because now its easy access. Use the standard size (if the engine wasn't rebuilt once)
6. Engine: Check or change the Chain, the tensioner and rail
BTW: Disadvantage of this short shifter: More Force can be tranfered into the gearbox during shifting. This can bent the Forks!
And check what kind of Gearbox you have. Centering of the Gear lever in the Gearbox (put it in neutral and twist the shift shaft, does it "jump" back?) (need the later Shifter-Block where no Springs keep the Shifter in neutral. Or do you have the old gearbox (need the Gear lever box with the little springs that the gearleaver jumps back infront of third and fourth gear.
If everything is done there is last tricky thing: adjusting the Gear Lever Position. This has to be done precisely if you want to achieve a precise shifting. Put the Box in neutral, open the clamp that the linkage is moving free over the shift shaft. Let someone hold the Shifter in neutral and then tight the clamp. Check on a testdrive if you can shift into all gears. You may have to adjust the leaver a bit more to the front or the rear, that every gear can be put in and stays in.
Have fun and good luck!
Thanks!!! I’ll try to check what I can but I’m not a trained mechanic by any means. I will be hopefully fixing a leak or two while in there
Jacob, you’re going to be loving the 900T so much more after it’s manual! Looking forward to seeing the process. I live in an apt so I have to live vicariously through you and your Auto Autopsies!
Lol hope so! Thank you
Can't wait to see the swap. Love this project you're working on. Scanwest Autosport in Washington is great! I swapped an engine in a 9-3 for my son and the first trip was from here in AZ to WA. While there the ECU died. Anthony Ferra directed me to them and they had an ECU programmed and back on the road home.
Road-trip from SoCal to Washington with my son me thinks!
Awesome. That’s great to hear 👊🏼
The resurrection of the true Classic Saab driving experience has begun! 👍 Good for you. I hear Scanwest is a good shop. Nice of them to help you out. We have a few good shops up here in the Seattle area as there more Saabs per capita than usual. So many Scandinavians settled here years ago.
Wow nice! That’s pretty cool
If i were you, i would keep the auto because those 3 Speed autos are a bit rare. But hey, it's your car! Do whatever you feel like doing with it!
I’m keeping the actual trans and related parts. The manuals are just more desirable and worth more, too
@@AutoAutopsy ah! Ok
Your key from ScanWest was a good choice. Rob, the owner, is awesome. I bought a shop car from him the 3rd month he was in business. It was not a Saab. It was a baby blue 1971 dodge colt. Not long after my dad bought a 1977 Saab 99 5 door, was chocolate brown. That was the start of my and my families journey with Saabs. That was something about ‘87-‘88. Since then we have collectively owned 12 Saab 99’s, 2 9000’s, and 3 900’s. Currently still own 2 classic 900 convertibles. Just remember that Rob at ScanWest or his team will be your best resource for sure. I learned how to rebuild and restore Saab from him.
Nice!
Kickass dude. Glad to see a 900 brought back to life
😅🙌🏼
I'm super stoked to watch the swap unfold!
Thanks!
The "slow" approach is best without a doubt.
😅🙌🏼
Looking forward to watching the swap. Love my Saabs and love to see you guys out there keeping them on the road and out of the scrap yards.
😁🙌🏼
Love this project Auto Autopsy! Makes me think of my brother when he fully rebuilt his SPG back in the day. It was monster fast!!
Thank you!
You may already know to drive the new rear main seal all of the way in until it bottoms out. The factory only drove the original seal in until it was flush. I recently serviced the entire clutch in my 1988 Turbo vert and also the rear main seal. So far zero leaks from the seal. I also recommend using a thin coat of Three Bond on the mating surfaces of the engine block and transmission. Just as you do on the valve cover when installing a new gasket. You may already know all of this and if not I can assure you that this method has been working for me for many years with success.
Thanks for the heads up!
Liking the project!
Don't forget to change the o-ring on the oil pickup tube in the sump and the front main seal, which is not easily accessed with the engine in place.
Also changing the seal on the gear shift axle on the gearbox, the one where the gear linkage rod connects, might be a good idea. They always leak there.
Yep, already have the new o-ring! 🙌🏼👍🏼
Awesome stuff! Thankfully mine's a manual already, but I look forward to seeing how this process goes.
😁🙌🏼
you should do the clutch. They are not $$ and even though it is simple on these old 900's THe SPG had a more robust clutch pressure plate. Probably $200-300. The SPG gear box most have lower gear ratio's and are not the best for cruising. In UK and europe they did make the Final drive gears much taller. There was what they call the "8" gear that makes it much better cruising
Thanks for the info!
Very interesting and good video! 👍🏻 Waiting for swap. It will be very cool! ✌🏻
😅🙌🏼
Love the Saab content. Trying to find a 900 turbo myself! Awesome stuff man!
Thank you Drake!
Yep. Take your time. Nice to have Saab Jesus close by. 👏👏
👍🏼👍🏼
oil pump o-ring, alternator bushings. take minutes to do instead of hours, add little grease to oil pump gear it will pick up oil faster.. clutch master, slave cylinder and line
engine out retorque upper control arm bushing brackets
👍🏼
If the trans is still out...good time to replace the shift shaft seal..and use the thick rear diff cover with the filter and magnet. Clean both...the filter is super fragile so be careful.
😁👍🏼
Oh and one other thing. The short shifter as good as it is. Cool I mean. This will cause more problems by putting more strain on your syncros by effecting quicker gear changes. In motoracing we would get rid of 5th gear and make it a 4 speed to take some load off the syncros and even then treat it gently. It's all fun until it breaks. Just some thoughts for you. Please don't take it as negative vibs. Just food for thought. Just wanna help. Cheers from Downunder.
It does come off as a bit negative but thanks for your insight nonetheless 😅👍🏼
Nice!
Can’t wait for it to be completed!
Thanks!
Congrats on getting the 5 speed. I'm not going to go into tranny as plenty are talking about it. You're putting on a belt for the AC compressor. Someone may have already by told you, but all 900s have a fresh air duct in the center register that is not heated or cooled. So if you're AC is working, not cooled air from the center register is normal. I had to close mine in winter.
Thanks for the heads up
Once I saw the pic elsewhere with the engine out, I was nearly certain this was going to be the end goal. :D godspeed!
😁🙌🏼
Good luck 👍 I’m really surprised that you can actually find old parts for the thing lol.
Yeah I got lucky at the yard!
They are always in the yards here in Orlando if anyone needs anything i can go get and mail it no problem and in decent shape also ive come across a few with clean ass interiors too
Very good video, you must change the steering wheel to a turbo one to!
Thanks. Oddly enough the SPG at the yard had the same wheel I do so I’m not sure what’s up really
wish me luck im that guy who got his first car a ng 9-3 but now imma manual swap just started wrenching cant wait to struggle ;)
Manual swapping a NG 9-3 is just about impossible. I would HIGHLY advise against it, just a heads up! Best of luck if you decide to do it
@@AutoAutopsy yeah its looking like its going to be fun ill keep you posted on insta im really excited to learn the ins and outs of a car and cry doing so lol
Honestly man, I would just buy a manual 9-3. Trust me, it’s nearly impossible to do lol 😅 it’s much more involved than the swap I’m doing. If it was easier I would have already done it to my 9-3!
pretty sure i need to switch entire cabin harness ive just been staring at wiring diagrams on wis soo much information saabs are legit the jailbroken iphone of the car industry in my eyes ive been looking at exactly how everything works learned so much loving it appreciate the advice i just really love the way these machines come together and just work perfectly
im planing on building the engine and an upgraded asin from level 10 cost me close to 5 grand but the manual could handle the torque
I hope it's the same for saab 900 gls
Huh?
Man I wish I could get keys cut for my older cars. Non-dealers can't get them without proof of ownership, but I can get one cut for my 1998.
:(
This is going to be epic :)
Hope so!
completely unrelated and I'm sorry for that but, I have a 2007 93 and was wondering if you know off the top of your head if the Schrader valve on the AC can be replaced with a replacement valve or if the whole AC hose has to be replaced?
PS This new project is fun to watch!
No problem! I’m not sure. I haven’t messed with that before on the 9-3’s. I’d try asking on a Saab Facebook group
@@AutoAutopsy dang... Not a facebooker anymore so I guess the search continues lol. Thanks for the reply. I guess I'm just gonna have to go put my hands on it.
This is going to be interesting. 👀🌵
👀
YAS!!!
😁🙌🏼
In my opinion, the Gearbox-Design itself is great, but in my view, SAAB should have made a dry-sump-oilsystem and take the bigger space, where the oil used to be, to make the gearbox, better sayed the entire inside of the box bigger and therefore stronger.
by the way, i am still looking for why the gearbox is weak, and what exactly on the gearbox is weak.i know that the base-design was 4-speed for around 110hp, was upgraded to 5-speed, and they used better internals, and that they had low space inside, but for me, that doesnt explain why this boxes are so famous for beeing problematic. also instead of tripple chains in front, i would have used just a big and strong shaft to guide the power from the engine/clutch to the "down under australia" gearbox
Hmm 🤔
I knew this was coming. Lol. That 3 spd is just not livable.
It’s not really that, as much as I know that I had the chance to grab the manual and swap it, which almost never comes up at our yards!! But yeah, the 5 speed is definitely better than the auto 🤣👍🏼
This is not a good idea! The automatic box is way more reliable. Better hang on to it. You're putting a high mileage manual gearbox behind a Turbo of some 175 ish hp. It wont last long and you will have to pull it out again. You should at the very least replace the syncros to buy yourself time. Saab had endless warranty issues with the turbo manual transmission 900i classic models. I'd also replace the clutch plate with a new one as well. Don't want to be negative just giving you the heads up so to speak. Less hassles down the line. I do like the project though. It's fun. Cheers from Downunder.
The manual trans has less mileage than the auto trans and is coming from a more powerful car. I don’t plan on shifting it or driving it too hard, but I’ll look out for that.
Dude, you will regret not fitting a new clutch now while it's apart. EVERYTHING will have to come apart again. Especially if you will be selling it. But that's just me.
I see your point. Clutches on these are easy, relatively speaking. It won’t have to come completely apart to do that job, if I need to. I am putting a lot of money into this thing already, so having a good used clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate to put in will very likely be fine!! Thanks for the input 🙌🏼😁
You can change the cluch in 45 min 🤷🏻♂️.
No!!! Such a shanda. It was born with auto. Keep the thing original😆 Fix the a/c for the Arizona summer👍
No way I'd keep it auto definitely a manual swap is in order man lfg
@@sergiomartins8626 Nope. Ripple effects on the entire old vehicle.
But then how can we enjoy the “epic”swap?
@@geoffwychgel True. Where do get a decent clutch?
@@ThePrissy11 unless he does the swap properly and i mean all the other stuff that not part of the motor