Monport saw the vid and sent a coupon code for 10% off: "PrintFiday" (spelled just like that). They did not provide any information on how long it's valid for, but I'll remove this comment once someone tells me they are not able to use it
wow, I remember that I tried this on black PLA with my fiber laser once and it did not work. after your video I tested it again wit the settings which was working on other types of black plastic and I was amazed that it was marked, so much options now, thamks for showing this
I had success trimming fence posts with my festool track saw. They have clamps that go into the track and you can clamp on both sides. So I think a better approach would be just mark your line with a square and clamp the rail right on the line. You just have to hold the saw to the track well but it's pretty easy. If the saw won't cut all the way through, just a hand hand saw to finish it off using the kerf as a guid.
Neither did I till I bought some precision ground blocks from Spencer over at Kinetic Precision. He laser marks his 3-d printed stone-holders. It's all his fault :) I've been wanting one ever since, and that was ~2 years ago.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Yes just like yours it is as good as any PLA I have used (I also printed on a P1S). I think it is important to thoroughly dry it before printing (As per the instructions)
The white your seeing normally occurs if you take the prints off the bed before it's fully cooled. To get rid of it, just give it a hit with a flame from a lighter or another source and it should go back to a rich black !
I use 90+% IPA between prints and get the white haze on mine. Even after cleaning with warm soap and water it is less though still there, but as soon as I put the IPA down it returns. Using the YIHUA 959D-Digital Hot Air Rework Station you recommended (thanks!) makes quick work of removing the haze. Keep up the amazing content.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday ASA’s party trick is UV resistance. That said I have had very good experience with untreated PETG (generic) that I made light brackets for both my sons bikes, they lasted years
Any fiber laser can engrave plastics like this, not just MOPA. Might get better results w/ mopa because obviously you can tune it more but I do this all the time on my regular Raycus source 30w
You can try cleaning the print bed surface with alcohol before each print. At least that is what I do with all prints before printing and have never seen that problem. And I use PETG most of the time.
Love your channel. This is really a nice printer that's probably in my future. Might be just the thing for guitars. Watching your videos I've always wondered about the open rolls of filament behind you. Do they absorb a lot of moisture? Thanks for showing this new printer.
I actually printed off a half dozen post caps this summer but I used TPU instead of PETG. Nice snug fit and if you lean/bump against them there's no hard corners.
How does it get lighter color when engraving, I've watched all video and didn't picked up on case you mentioned. Quite curious on how it works, if anyone can spoil the "magic" behind it 😂 Thank you.
I'm about halfway through the video you haven't mentioned what printer you're using? I could suggest a thorough bed cleaning when using PETG, the texture looks like what my Bambu P1S came with I think they recommend not using the textured bed sheets because the PETG grabs it too well. Yes the texture looks nice but a glue stick, hairspray or another adhesive/release agent is your best bet. The smooth sheets work better with the glue because it doesn't have to get into the texture crevices.
they recommend the textured bed for PETG if not using a release agent, the textured coating is much more resilient than the smooth plate which is basically just a big sticker, while the textured one is a bonded powder coating process. if you want a smooth surface for PETG, you need to use a release agent, or something like a garolite G10 plate.
Hi, I was wondering which nozzle size did you use for those printed parts? 0.4mm or 0.2mm? And which size of lens do you use? I have a 50W n9n mopa laser, i need to convert your parameters. Thank you!
The question for me about the laser is what's the cost? Something that good/clear can't be cheap. I am a huge fan of your videos keep up the great content
Bed adhesion of PETG after PLA is poor. Something in the PLA sticks around is brutally hard to clean using soap or IPA. Effectively your PETG was "cleaning" this. My trick is my I use one side of my PEI plat for PETG and the other for PLA. Someone mentioned it is some weird form of sugar.
Mam takie zaślepki na słupkach od 6 lat. Zrobione z PET-G, nic złego się nie stało. Jedynie czarny kolor stał się jaśniejszy. Lekko szary. Laser jest super, ale dla mnie za drogi. Muszę poczekać aż ta technologia stanieje, bo żona by mi głowę urwała gdybym wydał 4K$.
I love it but my OCD was triggered when you did not flip one of those flags around to be properly mirrored around the center logo 😂😂. That's okay I'll live with it. Are fiber lasers much more expensive? I personally would be piping the fumes directly out of the building rather than through the scrubber. The scrubber could perhaps remove smells but you never know what's left behind or when the filter starts failing
I'm a vet, not that you'd have to be one to notice, but the star field to the left seems to be the protocol. Mirrored, somehow, just doesn't look right.
@@billbyrd9845 I definitely see that perspective... But I also know that you salute it no matter which side of it you're looking at. Thank you for your service
$3800!!! I'm pretty sure I'll never have one of those. I'm the same way about functional versus trinkets. I don't need any dragons or fidget machines. Does you neighbor claim to be a Seal? Nice video.
I bought that saw from a local store when i was about 12 to cut wood for my tree fort. It’s cut tons of wood, stone, brick, concrete, and metal. Old skool Makita does not die. Bearings aren’t even noisy, and cord is still proper soft rubber.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.922 | 10 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zmV5HRIxIBI/mqdefault.jpg)
Monport saw the vid and sent a coupon code for 10% off: "PrintFiday" (spelled just like that). They did not provide any information on how long it's valid for, but I'll remove this comment once someone tells me they are not able to use it
wow, I remember that I tried this on black PLA with my fiber laser once and it did not work. after your video I tested it again wit the settings which was working on other types of black plastic and I was amazed that it was marked, so much options now, thamks for showing this
that laser etching on the wrench looks absolutely fantastic!
NGL, you got me thinking about looking into this more 🤔
Lol, I think Monport saw your comment. They just sent me a code I can share with you guys: "PrintFiday" will apparently get an extra 10% off
I had success trimming fence posts with my festool track saw. They have clamps that go into the track and you can clamp on both sides. So I think a better approach would be just mark your line with a square and clamp the rail right on the line. You just have to hold the saw to the track well but it's pretty easy. If the saw won't cut all the way through, just a hand hand saw to finish it off using the kerf as a guid.
I didn’t even know lasering prints was possible. Great explanation thanks!
Neither did I till I bought some precision ground blocks from Spencer over at Kinetic Precision. He laser marks his 3-d printed stone-holders. It's all his fault :) I've been wanting one ever since, and that was ~2 years ago.
Two weeks ago I also used some (grey) PETG-HF to make a custom connector between new 4x4 wood post and chain link top bar
How did it print for you? Just as smooth and clean?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Yes just like yours it is as good as any PLA I have used (I also printed on a P1S). I think it is important to thoroughly dry it before printing (As per the instructions)
The white your seeing normally occurs if you take the prints off the bed before it's fully cooled. To get rid of it, just give it a hit with a flame from a lighter or another source and it should go back to a rich black !
I've had it show even when it was fully cooled. But yeah, just a blast of hot air or quick flame clears the stressed plastic up really fast.
interesting, I'll try this, thx
lolo love that enclosure man nice. gotta love garage engineering its right up my ally
I use 90+% IPA between prints and get the white haze on mine. Even after cleaning with warm soap and water it is less though still there, but as soon as I put the IPA down it returns. Using the YIHUA 959D-Digital Hot Air Rework Station you recommended (thanks!) makes quick work of removing the haze. Keep up the amazing content.
India pale ale?
@@schmi146Isopropyl alcohol
thanks for confirming my white haze issue on my new A1
thx, now I'm thirsty
From what I have seen PETG has excellent outdoor durability. Black should be the best because of the included pigments from what I have read
ASA is definitely the filament of choice unpainted for this application. But if you paint them, petg should hold up well.
I've had surprisingly good luck, even with plain old PLA, but yeah I've heard ASA is very good outside as well. More voc's printing though right?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday ASA’s party trick is UV resistance. That said I have had very good experience with untreated PETG (generic) that I made light brackets for both my sons bikes, they lasted years
I worked with this style laser (but larger) in previous work and I had fun with it when I had some free time. 😅
Any fiber laser can engrave plastics like this, not just MOPA. Might get better results w/ mopa because obviously you can tune it more but I do this all the time on my regular Raycus source 30w
You can try cleaning the print bed surface with alcohol before each print. At least that is what I do with all prints before printing and have never seen that problem. And I use PETG most of the time.
I have three summers on my white pla porch post caps. They are still good.
Is That Engraving Process Shown In Real Time?!?
I'm Awestruck!
Nice........
I sped it up where there was multiple "fill" passes, but otherwise it's realtime. Galvo's are FAST.
I am beyond jealous of people with these lasers.
it's so much fun! been messing with the capabilities on metal
this weekend
Good thought to do a post cap.
dam 4k for a laser. wish I could justify that cost. Nicely done mate
just about, yeh. JPT M7 module costs almost that by itself though. The mopa's do some pretty cool stuff
Love your channel. This is really a nice printer that's probably in my future. Might be just the thing for guitars. Watching your videos I've always wondered about the open rolls of filament behind you. Do they absorb a lot of moisture? Thanks for showing this new printer.
What a great detailed video.
Thank you!
"we just scratched the surface with that laser." Yes I stayed long enough to catch that zinger 😂
Always love your videos
I would be interested to see how the laser does on different colours of filaments.
yeh I'll be trying a bunch of samples
Ah ha. I was right! That is a cool laser. I have a Monport 60w CO2. Good machine.
yeah, shame it was damaged in shipping, but they have been great with working with me on it
Thanks for sharing. I'm going to look into that laser, they are on my 2025 tool list. I would like to see more usage of it in the future.
You’ll be seeing more of it on the channel for sure. With marking prints being this quick and easy, you’ll probably get tired of seeing it :)
You could try fuzzy skin on the surfaces that are going to be glued
Great video. Can you share your laser settings? Would love to give it a go.
I just added them to the description
I actually printed off a half dozen post caps this summer but I used TPU instead of PETG. Nice snug fit and if you lean/bump against them there's no hard corners.
Patent pending enclosure. Genius! 😂
How does it get lighter color when engraving, I've watched all video and didn't picked up on case you mentioned.
Quite curious on how it works, if anyone can spoil the "magic" behind it 😂
Thank you.
would you be able to multi colour if the top layer is thin? ex red piece with a black toplayer
Does a fume extractor like that acmer work for 3D printers? Gotta filter that abs, asa et al air
Could you show us how it will look on lighter materials? I also read online these machines can engrave colors?
yes, going to try on all sorts of filament types and colors in a future video
I'm about halfway through the video you haven't mentioned what printer you're using? I could suggest a thorough bed cleaning when using PETG, the texture looks like what my Bambu P1S came with I think they recommend not using the textured bed sheets because the PETG grabs it too well. Yes the texture looks nice but a glue stick, hairspray or another adhesive/release agent is your best bet. The smooth sheets work better with the glue because it doesn't have to get into the texture crevices.
they recommend the textured bed for PETG if not using a release agent, the textured coating is much more resilient than the smooth plate which is basically just a big sticker, while the textured one is a bonded powder coating process. if you want a smooth surface for PETG, you need to use a release agent, or something like a garolite G10 plate.
P1S
Nice informative video. What was the frequency and line space you used on the fiber laser?
In the description
Hi, I was wondering which nozzle size did you use for those printed parts? 0.4mm or 0.2mm? And which size of lens do you use? I have a 50W n9n mopa laser, i need to convert your parameters. Thank you!
.4
@@FunctionalPrintFriday and what about the size of the lens of your laser engraver? The info is written on the lens. Thank you!
man that's a sweet laser. really nice output
Can the Acmer filter be vented outside?
Jesus that laser is almost 4k!!
Great vid!
thx!
The question for me about the laser is what's the cost? Something that good/clear can't be cheap.
I am a huge fan of your videos keep up the great content
they cost $3-4 thousand
@@Corvus.2606 As I write this, it's on sale for 3800.
thx. was 4700, but I think on sale now for 3800 with a rotary. I wish I had the rotary for mine. Will try one at some point
Hi there! Can you share the name of your CAD design software? Thank you in advance :)
sketchup make 2017, but I would recommend fusion or onshape
@@FunctionalPrintFriday thanks a lot!
Bed adhesion of PETG after PLA is poor. Something in the PLA sticks around is brutally hard to clean using soap or IPA. Effectively your PETG was "cleaning" this. My trick is my I use one side of my PEI plat for PETG and the other for PLA. Someone mentioned it is some weird form of sugar.
What part of PA are you in?
Lehigh Valley
Mam takie zaślepki na słupkach od 6 lat.
Zrobione z PET-G, nic złego się nie stało.
Jedynie czarny kolor stał się jaśniejszy.
Lekko szary.
Laser jest super, ale dla mnie za drogi.
Muszę poczekać aż ta technologia stanieje, bo żona by mi głowę urwała gdybym wydał 4K$.
I love it but my OCD was triggered when you did not flip one of those flags around to be properly mirrored around the center logo 😂😂. That's okay I'll live with it. Are fiber lasers much more expensive? I personally would be piping the fumes directly out of the building rather than through the scrubber. The scrubber could perhaps remove smells but you never know what's left behind or when the filter starts failing
I'm a vet, not that you'd have to be one to notice, but the star field to the left seems to be the protocol. Mirrored, somehow, just doesn't look right.
@@billbyrd9845 I definitely see that perspective... But I also know that you salute it no matter which side of it you're looking at. Thank you for your service
thx for your service
Hey Rich, how are these holding up so far? :)
sun hit them this morning and they vaporized, instantly, nothing left :)
Hey rich, how are these doing?
sun hit them this morning and they vaporized, instantly, nothing left :)
$3800!!! I'm pretty sure I'll never have one of those. I'm the same way about functional versus trinkets. I don't need any dragons or fidget machines. Does you neighbor claim to be a Seal? Nice video.
never say never. . the cool tech just keeps coming down in price
Cheaper ones comes arround 1800
@@nikdonic mopa though? I can't even find the bare 30w JPT M7 MOPA laser sources that cheap from any place that looks reputable
@@FunctionalPrintFriday not mopa just 50W Q-switch dirrectly from chinse factory with ship transport (it took 8 months to arrive)
For the love of everything purple, LASER SETTINGS PLEASE?!?
I just added them to the description
I hope your seal neighbor forgives you for the center post.
Woke up this morning to sawdust on our kitchen counter spelling out “i know”. All doors were locked, cameras picked up nothing.
I’d recommend 3DLac as a release agent on your PEI plate. Work great for all materials in my experience
The fibre laser is a lot better than a desktop diode laser safety wise. They are so much faster.
PETG once took a bite out of my mirror bed.
The twentieth century called. They want their corded circ saw back.
I know what you're saying, but some battery powered tools just don't cut the mustard. I bought a corded hammer drill just for that reason.
I bought that saw from a local store when i was about 12 to cut wood for my tree fort. It’s cut tons of wood, stone, brick, concrete, and metal. Old skool Makita does not die. Bearings aren’t even noisy, and cord is still proper soft rubber.
Worst comment ever.