Based on the three failed prints and the stepper motor skipper, it seems like the fails happen around the same time frame. My guess is that the stepper driver overheats after said time frame. I doubt it has something to do with clogged hotend.
Can you try replacing the clogging gear with a fluent gear to prevent the clogging problem? That's probably the only major flaw. I was really impressed with the consistent print quality that the other 3D printers didn't have.
for clogging problem, you may need to lower your retraction settings, especially for all metal hotends for benchy overhangs, add a part cooling fan will help for bed adhersion, buildtak-like print bed is nice for printers without heated bed to print flexible filament, try the flying extruder mod, which shorten the bowden tube to reduce fiction when pushing the filament into hotend
Nice introduction to 3D printing. For ABS you really want an enclosed print area so the temperature is more easily maintained, and also a heated bed. Warping will be a real problem with ABS otherwise (your example print won't show it much but flat areas or boxes with thin walls will). I prefer a glass bed for use with my Wanhao 4S, the print never fails to stick with the use of a laquer spray. Your initial sucess must be inspiring though and you will find the machine has many uses!
I had the first generation Delta Go printer, the one that got funded on Kickstarter. It was the worst 3D printer I have ever used. It had so many problems it would take hours to list them. Delta Go didn't offer much support, and actually dropped any little support that was left. They then used the money from the Kickstarter to make this newer Delta Go printer, forgetting completely about the original DeltaPrintr and backers. I personally don't trust them anymore. Even if the new Delta Go seems decent.
Hi Silviu, we did not use our kickstarter money to manufacture the new Delta Go printer. Every kickstarter backer received their printer that they backed and there are plenty of pictures on our Facebook page to prove we delivered the printers. Please do not spread false information. The first printer we manufactured was made out of laser cut wood, not metal and was designed in 2013 when the technology available for 3D printing was different.
Hi Thomast, we do support all of our customers and offer 12/7 live chat support on our website where we typically reply within 1-2 minutes. If a part ever needs replacing, we replace it free of charge as per our warranty.
Hello there, Thanks for replying to the comment. I didn't state you didn't deliver the printers, I did receive mine, and so did my friends. I stated they were very faulty and unreliable. No one I know that bought the original DeltaPrintr made a successful print without heavily modifying the printer and tweaking it. The support page was also quite unhelpful at solving the multitude of problems we were having.
I would believe Silviu. I have one of the website wooden ones similar to the one he has from KS, the worst printer I've ever dealt with. They marketed using fishing line as a better option for "belts that stretch". Belts don't stretch unless you get cheap rubber ones. But guess what also stretches? FISH LINE! I've gone through so many zip ties trying to keep the lines properly tensioned. It can't even print perfect circles let alone squares. I bought a smaller printer at less than half of what I paid for the Delta POS and it prints LEAGUES better than anything and is incredibly rigid. Don't believe them, they're trying to cover their butts. They're the usual snake oil salesmen.
Thanks for the review GreatScott! Regarding the filament jamming, we recommend increasing the temperature when the speed is increased. We typically print at 210-220 Celsius, but this of course varies on what material is being used. In regards to warping, we always recommend wiping the bed with alcohol since when the tape is laid down with hands, it leaves oil on the tape that will cause the print to curl up.
gad look at that poor guy up there you totally abandoned the kickstarter campaign and don't give them any more support for their problems. poor silviu stroe...
The failed print issue is heat creep from the hot end to the cold end. I have have had the same thing. Remove the heat break and add thermal paste to the cold end side to improve the heatsinks ability to remove the heat.
the weird flickering is because the LED's are being run from 12v from the board instead of directly from the power supply. the board's 12v rail is running the steppers and that's what's causing the flicker. i've added 12v rgb led's to my printer(also a delta type) and that happened until i connected directly to the 12v lugs from the main 2.1mm jack.
I noticed the print flexing on the benchy test print. A part cooling fan would prevent that. I paid less than what this printer costs for an i3 clone which has a heated bed, a larger print area, and part cooling fan. It has a few quarks too but over all has been working really well for a couple months.
It does not matter if this is or is not a paid review, all that matters is if its accurate and informative. Myself I would really love a 3D Printer as I am always working with radio control cars and breaking and making new things and it would be awesome to be able to create my designs on computer and print them out. But this video has confirmed my thoughts that 3D printing is not quite "plug and play" yet to the extent anyone can buy one plug it in and its prints faultlessly so I'm holding out for a few more years. Thanks GS for making the informative video and thanks to Deltaprintr for providing the test printer
I had trouble with my extruder clicking like that (not on a delta go) and I solved it by increasing the current on the stepper driver. There's a tiny pot on the driver board, test the reference voltage between the screw on the pot and ground. I turned mine up to 1.5v. If you turn it up too high you can overheat either the driver or the stepper, but turning it up to 1.5v solved it for me.
Print with a brim to aid with warping/lifting Very cool build and very cool autocalibration...very cool! I just got thru putting together a Anycubic Kossel and my son has it dialed in..and it prints GREAT! Oh...print a dust filter/oiler...and put a few drops of oil...it really helps Good video...keep em coming!
I had a similar problem with my machine, extruder was skipping from time to time, your prints looks to fail in the "same place", maybe the problem is the same also... Mine was: Driver overheating. This explains why it fails around same place, it overheats then enters in thermal protection mode, generally soon as it cools it works back, if heats again it will stop again of course...
Hello Greatscott!! I have seen both of your delta 3d printer review. Now i'm little bit confused which one should i buy, the 3KU Updated Full Metal Delta 3D(US $359.00 - 409.00) or the Delta go 3dPrinter($349.00). I like the Delta go model because it is cheaper and compact model.But it has extruder problem.Any suggestion???
Hi scott. Always calibrate your bed level with heated bed (if there is one) and heated nozzle. The brass in the nozzle makes it swells a just a small bit and can makes the calibration bad. =)
GreatScott! Not a big project! I want you to make this cnc using old cd drives and Arduino nano with l293d ICs as other channels haven't been provided with dimensions. So make this project
I wish you had explained what a delta printer is vs. corexy and Cartesian. Being able to quickly set up and print reliably is rare in the 3dp world. The price is actually excellent. The main issues with it are bo heated bed, no wifi (they should offer a Pi 0w2 version with Klipper) and small build size.
the stepper motor needs more amps the power supply that was included with the printer have a very low current you need at least 15A power supply without a heated bed.
Arrtus I got the linear plus... Was extremely satisfying to assemble and see the first print come out. I did spend 2 weekends building it, but it was worth it.
Nice. It took me a total of 17 hours to set it up and calibrate. I messed up some easy steps and had to redo a lot of things. I just hate how it jams. It's very annoying.
Hey man, can you make a video about making an rc car? I wanna make one, and don’t know what module to chose. I want to make it with an arduino (uno or nano) but I cannot find a single module with arduino libraries. I found nRF52840 which I think has libraries, but I don’t know how to use it with arduino. I’ll be glad if you could help me :)
The issue with the filament feeding mechanism being removed so far from the hot end means that it needs to push a lot of filament ahead of itself, which means you need a stronger motor and a higher clamping force on the filament to push it that far. That's why it's skipping for you, and I can't help but think that if they had included that (and figured out how to move around a big stepper motor) on the hot end side of the printer, it would've solved a lot of their feeding problems. There are benefits to having a lighter printer head, of course, but if you can't get the printer to run consistently you may need to rethink your design decisions.
kragon hi, thanks for the tips, i didnt find the drivers to the motors, so im buying 4 nema 17, and yes school can fund the full project but then the printer is not mine, so i want to buy all with my money and keep it and make some upgrades like a raspberry pi 0 w with octoprint and a raspberry pi 3b with maybe win10 or kali linux
can you make your own 3D printer , i know it should have lots of computer programming which you don't like but it will be great learning experience for you and us
Painters tape as printing surface in 2017... Also heatbed is pretty core funcionallity that's missing. Nice price tag, but I think there are better printers even at this price point. And if you can afford it, something like Prusa i3 mk3 is lightyears ahead of this printer at 749$.
Hey greatscott! Im into guitar and was wondering if you could do a video about tube amplifiers. I dont exactly know how these work and im interested :)
Hi whats up? i was woundering about how microcontroler(arduino ) undrestand g-code which sent to it from pc . For example when i press the top arrow of my keybord in computer it goes one step toward and vice versa
In some of your videos, i see you using blueprints is there any good blue printmaking programs that will allow me to export to jpeg or png? i was trying photo shop but i want to beable to snap lines
The tube should not be too short either. In my experience the clogging can be due to different causes al the way from spool to nozzle: 1. The spoolholder may give too much friction; 2. The extruder motor may need more current; 3. The extruder wheel may need more tension; 4. The bowden tube may have too much friction (use silicon spray, avoid too tight curves and avoid too long tube) 5. The filament may not be melted enough. Depending on the filament increasing the temperature or lowering (feeding or printing) speed may help. Sometimes slight overextrusion may help too. Proper adhesion also helps, causing the filament to be somewhat pulked out of the nozzle. Don't set the layers too thick or too thin.
Would you build a sound reactive ESP8266 controlled WS2812 LED strip? Chcek out Color Chord on github and it may be a good project. Though it is developed by another guy...
I really want a 3d printer, and I really want a prusa i3 mk2s, but I can't yet justify the price to what I can use it for. This price might help abit, but I want something that makes it easy and will last. Do you think that this will do that? also why do you like deltaprinters so much?
I watched a lot of reviews about it and it really seems like everbody loves it. But I have two well working 3D printers now and I doubt that we need another review of the Creality one.
Indeed very comprehensive comments in the community support section. For simple constructed filament extruders, inspecting the quality of the filament is key before rushing into a print. Through your very methodical approach and reading the troubleshooting section I have learned a lot today.
We recommend changing the temperature as the speed is increased/decreased, as the temperature depends on the speed and vise versa. Aside from that, using good quality filament is always important.
If it really was clogging, then it's got to be garbage filament or a very badly made hotend, or a very small nozzle. But I suspect the temp is too low. I use a 0.4mm nozzle on an all-metal hotend and eSun, Sainsmart and Hatchbox PLA, ABS and TPU filaments from Amazon, and I have done many hundreds of hours of printing without a jam. I haven't had a jam now for probably 3 years, that time I got a really bad filament supplier and wound up just throwing away all the filament I bought from them.
Cool. I made my own design of delta printer and write my own firmware based on Repetier. I spent like 3 weeks designing and 1 week building. The total cost was 285usd. In my country the components are expensive so if you get all from internet (like eBay, Alibaba, etc.) probably you can get all for 200usd or less. The resolution its very good, very close to a 1000usd printer (that I have too). Probably in the future I'll post an Instructable if someone it's interested.
WOW, I just bought the printer and then you offer us a disscount code.................
Sorry about that
wow. how unlucky :(
but nevertheless thx for the coupon :)
Can't you cancel the order and then re-order?
lol
Send it back and buy a new one
>Randomly acess the channel.
>New video 5 minutes ago
>Woah...
Luiz Fernando
lol 111th like :P
Based on the three failed prints and the stepper motor skipper, it seems like the fails happen around the same time frame. My guess is that the stepper driver overheats after said time frame. I doubt it has something to do with clogged hotend.
Can you try replacing the clogging gear with a fluent gear to prevent the clogging problem? That's probably the only major flaw. I was really impressed with the consistent print quality that the other 3D printers didn't have.
for clogging problem, you may need to lower your retraction settings, especially for all metal hotends
for benchy overhangs, add a part cooling fan will help
for bed adhersion, buildtak-like print bed is nice for printers without heated bed
to print flexible filament, try the flying extruder mod, which shorten the bowden tube to reduce fiction when pushing the filament into hotend
Nice introduction to 3D printing. For ABS you really want an enclosed print area so the temperature is more easily maintained, and also a heated bed. Warping will be a real problem with ABS otherwise (your example print won't show it much but flat areas or boxes with thin walls will). I prefer a glass bed for use with my Wanhao 4S, the print never fails to stick with the use of a laquer spray. Your initial sucess must be inspiring though and you will find the machine has many uses!
It just occurred to me that I never heard him say GreatScott out loud before
Dude same.
I think it's because he's self-effacing, like most Scotsmen.
(Hes not Scottish)
I had the first generation Delta Go printer, the one that got funded on Kickstarter. It was the worst 3D printer I have ever used. It had so many problems it would take hours to list them. Delta Go didn't offer much support, and actually dropped any little support that was left. They then used the money from the Kickstarter to make this newer Delta Go printer, forgetting completely about the original DeltaPrintr and backers. I personally don't trust them anymore. Even if the new Delta Go seems decent.
Indeed
Hi Silviu, we did not use our kickstarter money to manufacture the new Delta Go printer. Every kickstarter backer received their printer that they backed and there are plenty of pictures on our Facebook page to prove we delivered the printers. Please do not spread false information.
The first printer we manufactured was made out of laser cut wood, not metal and was designed in 2013 when the technology available for 3D printing was different.
Hi Thomast, we do support all of our customers and offer 12/7 live chat support on our website where we typically reply within 1-2 minutes. If a part ever needs replacing, we replace it free of charge as per our warranty.
Hello there, Thanks for replying to the comment. I didn't state you didn't deliver the printers, I did receive mine, and so did my friends. I stated they were very faulty and unreliable. No one I know that bought the original DeltaPrintr made a successful print without heavily modifying the printer and tweaking it. The support page was also quite unhelpful at solving the multitude of problems we were having.
I would believe Silviu. I have one of the website wooden ones similar to the one he has from KS, the worst printer I've ever dealt with. They marketed using fishing line as a better option for "belts that stretch". Belts don't stretch unless you get cheap rubber ones. But guess what also stretches? FISH LINE! I've gone through so many zip ties trying to keep the lines properly tensioned. It can't even print perfect circles let alone squares. I bought a smaller printer at less than half of what I paid for the Delta POS and it prints LEAGUES better than anything and is incredibly rigid. Don't believe them, they're trying to cover their butts. They're the usual snake oil salesmen.
You should really make more vids about 3d printing
Thanks for the review GreatScott! Regarding the filament jamming, we recommend increasing the temperature when the speed is increased. We typically print at 210-220 Celsius, but this of course varies on what material is being used. In regards to warping, we always recommend wiping the bed with alcohol since when the tape is laid down with hands, it leaves oil on the tape that will cause the print to curl up.
gad look at that poor guy up there you totally abandoned the kickstarter campaign and don't give them any more support for their problems. poor silviu stroe...
There are also other guys who will make a good review for free printer. So no need to thank him - it's his job to do it.
Look up a viscosity index for your plastics, I just want to see if this helps
I recently bought the reality cr-10 which is great value
The failed print issue is heat creep from the hot end to the cold end. I have have had the same thing. Remove the heat break and add thermal paste to the cold end side to improve the heatsinks ability to remove the heat.
in terms of fixing up your printer. I wonder if making it "gravity fed", and moving the feeder above the printer could make it work more reliably?
the weird flickering is because the LED's are being run from 12v from the board instead of directly from the power supply. the board's 12v rail is running the steppers and that's what's causing the flicker. i've added 12v rgb led's to my printer(also a delta type) and that happened until i connected directly to the 12v lugs from the main 2.1mm jack.
I noticed the print flexing on the benchy test print. A part cooling fan would prevent that. I paid less than what this printer costs for an i3 clone which has a heated bed, a larger print area, and part cooling fan. It has a few quarks too but over all has been working really well for a couple months.
The coconut filament looks great, will have to go get some
It does not matter if this is or is not a paid review, all that matters is if its accurate and informative.
Myself I would really love a 3D Printer as I am always working with radio control cars and breaking and making new things
and it would be awesome to be able to create my designs on computer and print them out.
But this video has confirmed my thoughts that 3D printing is not quite "plug and play" yet to the extent anyone can buy
one plug it in and its prints faultlessly so I'm holding out for a few more years.
Thanks GS for making the informative video and thanks to Deltaprintr for providing the test printer
Is the feed tube PVC. PVC is sticky so maybe nylon would be better.
I had trouble with my extruder clicking like that (not on a delta go) and I solved it by increasing the current on the stepper driver. There's a tiny pot on the driver board, test the reference voltage between the screw on the pot and ground. I turned mine up to 1.5v. If you turn it up too high you can overheat either the driver or the stepper, but turning it up to 1.5v solved it for me.
Print with a brim to aid with warping/lifting
Very cool build and very cool autocalibration...very cool! I just got thru putting together a Anycubic Kossel and my son has it dialed in..and it prints GREAT!
Oh...print a dust filter/oiler...and put a few drops of oil...it really helps
Good video...keep em coming!
Thanks for this very honest review about all the issues and advantages of this printer, your reviews in 3D printing are the best on TH-cam hands down.
Could you show how to make a rf Video transmitter circuit next?
can you re-engineer this printer a little example if you put the extruder motor on top so there is less resistance and put a heatedbed on it
I had a similar problem with my machine, extruder was skipping from time to time, your prints looks to fail in the "same place", maybe the problem is the same also...
Mine was: Driver overheating.
This explains why it fails around same place, it overheats then enters in thermal protection mode, generally soon as it cools it works back, if heats again it will stop again of course...
i like that this one is already assembled.
Sir make a video on your workshop
hello, maybe you can make video with laser engraver and with it markering on metal?
can you make a review of Creality3D CR - 10 ?
this printer looks good but i like your review about it
Can you once show us the current (ampere s) of normal alkaline battery
0:40 this is actually how you spell this channel name
So is your case with the clogged hot end a unique one?
Is the Prusa MK3 rather worth it?
Hello Greatscott!! I have seen both of your delta 3d printer review. Now i'm little bit confused which one should i buy, the 3KU Updated Full Metal Delta 3D(US $359.00 - 409.00) or the Delta go 3dPrinter($349.00). I like the Delta go model because it is cheaper and compact model.But it has extruder problem.Any suggestion???
That promo code inclusion was slick, I almost didn't notice it :P
can you make a video on signal jammer?
Are there any high resolution oled small form factor displays for raspberry pi?
why ask here ? ask google ...
You should make a video about creating a 555 timer flyback converter
will the coupon code you gave still work in a few months' time? Can't buy the printer right now but at some point I'd like to.
Hi scott. Always calibrate your bed level with heated bed (if there is one) and heated nozzle. The brass in the nozzle makes it swells a just a small bit and can makes the calibration bad. =)
Electric skateboard motor mount print at 5:40?
Make a cnc
Not sure, quite a big project.
I did cnc laser cutter out of 2 broken printers/scanners and 1 dvd burner. Only bought arduino uno and stepper motor drivers (total of about 20 euros)
GreatScott! Thank for reply
You can try to get a cheap 3d printer kit like the Anet a8 and convert it to a cnc =)
GreatScott! Not a big project! I want you to make this cnc using old cd drives and Arduino nano with l293d ICs as other channels haven't been provided with dimensions. So make this project
Scott please make a video showing how you store all the stuff. Also make a portable workstation video.
Make a video about a dual extruder mod for any 3d printer.
I put it on my to do list
Thanks ! :D
I would miss a statusmonitor on these printer! As far as I understood, the Computer needs to be connected all the Time ?
Hi Asdomega, you can also print un-tethered via MicroSD card without USB cable.
I wish you had explained what a delta printer is vs. corexy and Cartesian. Being able to quickly set up and print reliably is rare in the 3dp world. The price is actually excellent. The main issues with it are bo heated bed, no wifi (they should offer a Pi 0w2 version with Klipper) and small build size.
the stepper motor needs more amps the power supply that was included with the printer have a very low current you need at least 15A power supply without a heated bed.
Can you do more projects using your 3d printers
I'd recommend the Anycubic Linear instead of this one. It's bigger and cheaper. You have to set it all up yourself, however.
Arrtus
I got the linear plus... Was extremely satisfying to assemble and see the first print come out. I did spend 2 weekends building it, but it was worth it.
Nice. It took me a total of 17 hours to set it up and calibrate. I messed up some easy steps and had to redo a lot of things. I just hate how it jams. It's very annoying.
I just want to say THANK YOU, for your very helpfully videos :D !!!
Please upload a video for making smps 5v 2amp...
Hey man, can you make a video about making an rc car? I wanna make one, and don’t know what module to chose. I want to make it with an arduino (uno or nano) but I cannot find a single module with arduino libraries. I found nRF52840 which I think has libraries, but I don’t know how to use it with arduino. I’ll be glad if you could help me :)
I put it on my to do list
GreatScott! Thanks man! Appreciated!
What your white breadboard call? I want one!!!
what adhesive uses for ABS?
Please what's the programs use for circuit
EasyEDA
^_^
thanks bro
The issue with the filament feeding mechanism being removed so far from the hot end means that it needs to push a lot of filament ahead of itself, which means you need a stronger motor and a higher clamping force on the filament to push it that far. That's why it's skipping for you, and I can't help but think that if they had included that (and figured out how to move around a big stepper motor) on the hot end side of the printer, it would've solved a lot of their feeding problems. There are benefits to having a lighter printer head, of course, but if you can't get the printer to run consistently you may need to rethink your design decisions.
And you also have a few extra feet of filament left over when you finish a spool.
How come there is no cooling for the freshly extruded filament?
There is a cooling fan.
Hi, im planing on bulding a 3D printer with reprap and arduino mega for a school project, can i use steppermotors from and old inkjet printer
Joel Filipe yes you can! Im planning to make it too. You do need to know the specs of the stepper motors so you can get the needed motor drivers
kragon hi, thanks for the tips, i didnt find the drivers to the motors, so im buying 4 nema 17, and yes school can fund the full project but then the printer is not mine, so i want to buy all with my money and keep it and make some upgrades like a raspberry pi 0 w with octoprint and a raspberry pi 3b with maybe win10 or kali linux
Joel Filipe
Kali linux? What kind of printer needs OS filled with network pentesting tools? I can still understand win10, but not this
great scott please make a video whzre you make a desktop pc out of laptop mother board and thnx
Where do you suggest going to college for electronics engineering? Please answer! GreatScott!!!
How should I know? There are so many, how should anyone be able to pick the best place?
What about the ones in the US, or something you like best? Thank you so much for the reply!
can you make your own 3D printer , i know it should have lots of computer programming which you don't like but it will be great learning experience for you and us
i recomend adding cooling fans as a modification on all your printers it increases the quality alot
Just get a CR-10. It has a larger printing volume, heated bed, great quality and no problems with jamming. It's in the same price range.
plz make a video on powerful megnatic levitation circuit.
On my to do list
Painters tape as printing surface in 2017... Also heatbed is pretty core funcionallity that's missing. Nice price tag, but I think there are better printers even at this price point. And if you can afford it, something like Prusa i3 mk3 is lightyears ahead of this printer at 749$.
how is the DIY quadcopter project going ?
Right around the corner
Hey greatscott! Im into guitar and was wondering if you could do a video about tube amplifiers. I dont exactly know how these work and im interested :)
Hi whats up?
i was woundering about how microcontroler(arduino ) undrestand g-code which sent to it from pc .
For example when i press the top arrow of my keybord in computer it goes one step toward and vice versa
Can you do a review on the Anet A8??
Musashi Kaneko Why? There are like a hundred reviews of there of this thing...
Well, that's true, but, I like Great Scott's presentation.
What do you think about dremel 3D printer?
Never used it
what happen if you share your workshop with electroboom
Oh boy. I might need to wear some protective gear.
GreatScott! Don't forget the padding...
@@greatscottlab Make sure you are not grounded. Wear 6 inch thick rubber boosts and high voltage gloves.
I will like if you made your ESC, like you made that lipo charger... :)
In some of your videos, i see you using blueprints is there any good blue printmaking programs that will allow me to export to jpeg or png? i was trying photo shop but i want to beable to snap lines
Hi Scott can I ask you something,Can you make a 5v-50vhigher
boost converter!! pls
Watch my boost converter video and simply change a bit of the code/components. Not that hard.
ok thanks
Hi, im trying to make your boost-buck converter and i cant find or get IRLZ44N. What can I use as an alternative?
thanks
Nice review bro!
Thanks mate
Is the discount code permanent?
tighten the extruder , and shorten the bowden tube as much as possible.
Should help the extrusion problems.
I might try shorting the tube.
The tube should not be too short either. In my experience the clogging can be due to different causes al the way from spool to nozzle:
1. The spoolholder may give too much friction;
2. The extruder motor may need more current;
3. The extruder wheel may need more tension;
4. The bowden tube may have too much friction (use silicon spray, avoid too tight curves and avoid too long tube)
5. The filament may not be melted enough. Depending on the filament increasing the temperature or lowering (feeding or printing) speed may help. Sometimes slight overextrusion may help too. Proper adhesion also helps, causing the filament to be somewhat pulked out of the nozzle. Don't set the layers too thick or too thin.
What do you think about the prusa i3 HE3D or Tevo Tarantula ?
luv ur 3d printing videos
Hello
Greatscott, i want to know about wplsoft ( plc software) please share the video on it.
Thank you.
Would you build a sound reactive ESP8266 controlled WS2812 LED strip? Chcek out Color Chord on github and it may be a good project. Though it is developed by another guy...
Do more things with peltier!!!Great channel
0:59 yes, I know, the foam is always PITA.
Unbreakable barrier. A challenge even for Chuck Norris.
Do you have the sd card content. Mine got currepted and i cant find it anywhere
Sir... Plz make a single touch capacitive switch plzzz...
Can you give away some of your diy circuits that you don't use anymore?
Copper or any metal filled filament will easily wear down your brass nozzle. Get an hardened one or you'll get a free bigger diameter nozzle.
I really want a 3d printer, and I really want a prusa i3 mk2s, but I can't yet justify the price to what I can use it for. This price might help abit, but I want something that makes it easy and will last. Do you think that this will do that? also why do you like deltaprinters so much?
I think this one should do the job just fine. I do like Delta Printers so much since they take up less space. They are build high instead of wide.
You should try the CReality-Cr10
I watched a lot of reviews about it and it really seems like everbody loves it. But I have two well working 3D printers now and I doubt that we need another review of the Creality one.
Again a great Video!
the clogging: how to solve this problem?
+SURE D i can recommend to visit their troubleshooting guide. There are some useful tips.
Indeed very comprehensive comments in the community support section. For simple constructed filament extruders, inspecting the quality of the filament is key before rushing into a print. Through your very methodical approach and reading the troubleshooting section I have learned a lot today.
We recommend changing the temperature as the speed is increased/decreased, as the temperature depends on the speed and vise versa. Aside from that, using good quality filament is always important.
Try a filament wiper/ oiler. www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067
If it really was clogging, then it's got to be garbage filament or a very badly made hotend, or a very small nozzle. But I suspect the temp is too low.
I use a 0.4mm nozzle on an all-metal hotend and eSun, Sainsmart and Hatchbox PLA, ABS and TPU filaments from Amazon, and I have done many hundreds of hours of printing without a jam. I haven't had a jam now for probably 3 years, that time I got a really bad filament supplier and wound up just throwing away all the filament I bought from them.
Cool. I made my own design of delta printer and write my own firmware based on Repetier. I spent like 3 weeks designing and 1 week building. The total cost was 285usd. In my country the components are expensive so if you get all from internet (like eBay, Alibaba, etc.) probably you can get all for 200usd or less.
The resolution its very good, very close to a 1000usd printer (that I have too).
Probably in the future I'll post an Instructable if someone it's interested.
Would you say your 3ku delta is better then?
If it comes to quality, no. But of course I can print larger parts with it.
It's free hardware?
I got one a couple years ago. I found I had to turn down the fan speed.
make a heated bead i am veri intrested in that i wana do it myself
So is it worh its price tag??
Can u make Vape mods?
Really nice!
Maybe you can hack together a heated bed for it in another video?