@@windrowfarm my first 2 steel rack wagons I paid $500 each. My third 20ft steel rack wagon I paid $1800 which was too much but below average price here. 3&4h wagons I picked up are amazing c-channel frame and steel rack with hinges side doors on both sides I picked up for $1500 a piece on really nice jd 720 running gear. The one I'm getting tomorrow is $800 all steel frame and rack but older. Hard to find them under $2000+ around here.
Lookin great man. If your looking for a new or newer Tedder get a pequa. They are bulletproof and they are hydraulic fold. We have had no issues and we got ours from Cain equipment in Clermont ga.
Thanks so much! Yeah, I’ve been eyeing pequa, I appreciate that recommendation! It’s such a game trying to figure out what to buy new (rare!) versus see what I can make out of something used, at my scale. I didn’t say it in the video, but the only reason I bought a new mower is because of how deeply internal those parts are, and how much everything hinges on it. Most other equipment I can clearly see what’s going on and get ahead of a breakdown before it happens, or do something oddball preventatively (like the tabs I had welded on the tedder 😅). But keeping my eye out for a used pequea sounds like a good idea, at least! Thanks!!
Cannot Agree with your View point We bought the 6 basket Model and It ate both tires , because the mechanism that locks the transport wheels in transport fail to prevent straight rolling.... Using Plastic Bushings where Bronze should have been used..... Best Hay Equip is Krone....
You’re really making me want to get one of those Vemeers. My 488 is a very nice mower but I’d be able to mow a lot faster with that. What is the hp requirement? Also nice rotary rake. I’m wanting to get a different one that lifts higher than the Miller Pro I have.
Oh, thanks! yeah, especially with the wetness we keep getting around here, I'm definitely a fan of the disc mower. (Though I know I'm against the grain without having a conditioner, but I know we've talked about that before :) ) The TM610 I believe is 50 hp. If I remember right, the 710 is 55, and the 810 is 60. I went with the smallest due to cost and various field entrance size constraints. Maybe I'm really overdue making a review video. I *love* the mower, now that I installed the narrower tire on the right. Before that, the edge trampling problem I was getting almost cost me my sanity. It feels incredibly rugged and mows through just about anything. I do think that NH has now come out with a similar size pull-type disc mower (also no conditioner) since I bought this, and that would be worth looking into too. Also thanks re: the rake! I'm a little white-knuckled about it at the moment, between the slight axle twist play, and the time/money I now have into the CV joint and the cylinder repair (that's been a saga of lost parts shipments and then wrong parts shipments.) But anyway, it can life nice and high in theory! Excited to see how it does this year. Hope your season prep is going well! When do you think you'll kick off? (By the way, if you want to talk in any more detail about any of the mower details (or hay nerding in general) you're welcome to email me. windrowfarmconway@gmail.com)
Great videos and great idea to do a video about leasing land! I’m in RI and have a couple of friends that are willing to let me hay their land( small lots) and I don’t know how much to offer them! Just looking to support my own animals!
@@larrydesormierjr6940 thanks so much! In my experience the majority of New England hay land is in fact free lease, unless it’s in high competition or on good soil quality types, or tied to leasing a whole farm where infrastructure is involved (though, depending, could still be free lease). Mostly focusing on the positive benefits for the landowner - free mowing, fertility and aesthetics, and often current use taxes for farmimg. That said, I’ve heard of $25/acre/year, or even $50 for good ground. It all depends what the landowner needs and what you can afford 🙂
@@windrowfarm thanks so much, I appreciate it, and I'll let you know how I make out. Also looked into the ROPS program. They already called me back and RI doesn't offer it yet, but it is in a new BILL. They took my information and will let me know when it goes through. Larry
I just bought a Massey 124 last season after my old new holland 273 decided it was done for. After the season was done and I went to grease it I could not find near as many grease zerks on the Massey baler compared to my old New Holland baler. Am I blind or is their a lot less on the Massey balers compared to the New Holland balers?
Nice! How did it do for you? There are indeed surprisingly few grease zerks on the 124 (and assuming the 100 series in general). I just double checked the manual (worth picking up a reprint on ebay!) - and it's the PTO driveline, gauge wheel, and knotters. (There's one on each knotter itself, which annoyingly are only accessible every other time it ties a knot, since they only rotate 180 degrees per tie. Then three on the shaft above the knotter). Other than that I spray fluid film on the chains (right or wrong - I'm sure something like graphite might be better, though I haven't noticed buildup of crud on them with fluid film). And I spray penetrating oil on the packer fork pins and a few other places that there's no grease/bearings. I was surprised too at first, yet knock on wood I haven't noticed any wear/problems otherwise. Hope that helps!
Thanks, compared to my old New Holland it has no grease zerks Lol. I will be buying a manual for it before I start the next season but last season it worked great. Only missed a bale when it switched roles of twine. I was surprised to not find any the packer fork, I was worried that the pins would be something I would have to replace every once and a while but I’ll just make sure to keep them well lubed.
That’s a great fleet of equipment. Best of luck in 2024….👍
Thanks! You too!!
I love your old Masseys. Used to run a 230 at my old Job and just drove a 165 this past weekend, such smooth operating machines
Thanks!! Totally agree 😊
Great tour. Im going for wagon 6 tomorrow can never have enough.
Totally agree! Any of them affordable by you?
@@windrowfarm my first 2 steel rack wagons I paid $500 each. My third 20ft steel rack wagon I paid $1800 which was too much but below average price here. 3&4h wagons I picked up are amazing c-channel frame and steel rack with hinges side doors on both sides I picked up for $1500 a piece on really nice jd 720 running gear. The one I'm getting tomorrow is $800 all steel frame and rack but older. Hard to find them under $2000+ around here.
@@MAF_LTD awesome find! Same story here
Great tour, WF. Here's wishing you a maximum yield summer. Cheers.
Thanks so much! Same to you!!
They are good balers I had one in the mid 1980s with a thrower on it.
Nice!! A 124 also?
Lookin great man. If your looking for a new or newer Tedder get a pequa. They are bulletproof and they are hydraulic fold. We have had no issues and we got ours from Cain equipment in Clermont ga.
Thanks so much! Yeah, I’ve been eyeing pequa, I appreciate that recommendation! It’s such a game trying to figure out what to buy new (rare!) versus see what I can make out of something used, at my scale. I didn’t say it in the video, but the only reason I bought a new mower is because of how deeply internal those parts are, and how much everything hinges on it. Most other equipment I can clearly see what’s going on and get ahead of a breakdown before it happens, or do something oddball preventatively (like the tabs I had welded on the tedder 😅). But keeping my eye out for a used pequea sounds like a good idea, at least! Thanks!!
@@windrowfarm imma do a review on my channel prolly next week in the pequa Tedder
@@O.KFarmToysdeutzallis6275 awesome! Looking forward to it!
Cannot Agree with your View point We bought the 6 basket Model and It ate both tires , because the mechanism that locks the transport wheels in transport fail to prevent straight rolling.... Using Plastic Bushings where Bronze should have been used..... Best Hay Equip is Krone....
You’re really making me want to get one of those Vemeers. My 488 is a very nice mower but I’d be able to mow a lot faster with that. What is the hp requirement?
Also nice rotary rake. I’m wanting to get a different one that lifts higher than the Miller Pro I have.
Oh, thanks! yeah, especially with the wetness we keep getting around here, I'm definitely a fan of the disc mower. (Though I know I'm against the grain without having a conditioner, but I know we've talked about that before :) ) The TM610 I believe is 50 hp. If I remember right, the 710 is 55, and the 810 is 60. I went with the smallest due to cost and various field entrance size constraints. Maybe I'm really overdue making a review video. I *love* the mower, now that I installed the narrower tire on the right. Before that, the edge trampling problem I was getting almost cost me my sanity. It feels incredibly rugged and mows through just about anything. I do think that NH has now come out with a similar size pull-type disc mower (also no conditioner) since I bought this, and that would be worth looking into too.
Also thanks re: the rake! I'm a little white-knuckled about it at the moment, between the slight axle twist play, and the time/money I now have into the CV joint and the cylinder repair (that's been a saga of lost parts shipments and then wrong parts shipments.) But anyway, it can life nice and high in theory! Excited to see how it does this year.
Hope your season prep is going well! When do you think you'll kick off?
(By the way, if you want to talk in any more detail about any of the mower details (or hay nerding in general) you're welcome to email me. windrowfarmconway@gmail.com)
I found a baler in my area is exactly like yours they are asking 1600 for it
Wow, nice!! Thrower and all?
@@windrowfarm with thrower it looks like a pretty decent baler
Great videos and great idea to do a video about leasing land!
I’m in RI and have a couple of friends that are willing to let me hay their land( small lots) and I don’t know how much to offer them! Just looking to support my own animals!
@@larrydesormierjr6940 thanks so much! In my experience the majority of New England hay land is in fact free lease, unless it’s in high competition or on good soil quality types, or tied to leasing a whole farm where infrastructure is involved (though, depending, could still be free lease). Mostly focusing on the positive benefits for the landowner - free mowing, fertility and aesthetics, and often current use taxes for farmimg. That said, I’ve heard of $25/acre/year, or even $50 for good ground. It all depends what the landowner needs and what you can afford 🙂
@@windrowfarm thanks so much, I appreciate it, and I'll let you know how I make out. Also looked into the ROPS program. They already called me back and RI doesn't offer it yet, but it is in a new BILL. They took my information and will let me know when it goes through.
Larry
I just bought a Massey 124 last season after my old new holland 273 decided it was done for. After the season was done and I went to grease it I could not find near as many grease zerks on the Massey baler compared to my old New Holland baler. Am I blind or is their a lot less on the Massey balers compared to the New Holland balers?
Nice! How did it do for you? There are indeed surprisingly few grease zerks on the 124 (and assuming the 100 series in general). I just double checked the manual (worth picking up a reprint on ebay!) - and it's the PTO driveline, gauge wheel, and knotters. (There's one on each knotter itself, which annoyingly are only accessible every other time it ties a knot, since they only rotate 180 degrees per tie. Then three on the shaft above the knotter). Other than that I spray fluid film on the chains (right or wrong - I'm sure something like graphite might be better, though I haven't noticed buildup of crud on them with fluid film). And I spray penetrating oil on the packer fork pins and a few other places that there's no grease/bearings. I was surprised too at first, yet knock on wood I haven't noticed any wear/problems otherwise.
Hope that helps!
Thanks, compared to my old New Holland it has no grease zerks Lol. I will be buying a manual for it before I start the next season but last season it worked great. Only missed a bale when it switched roles of twine. I was surprised to not find any the packer fork, I was worried that the pins would be something I would have to replace every once and a while but I’ll just make sure to keep them well lubed.
@@groomfamilyfarm that makes sense! Packer fork pins seem to hold up well with some lubrication.