Shoutout from South Korea! I'm going to do the glove test today! Redblock Volvos are so rare over here (only handful of them were sold back in 90s Korea) and most of them are already went to the junkyard. Most Koreans change their cars less than 10 years. So things like '1994 940' is just almost nonexistent in the streets :( Even junkyards don't keep the car because there are no one looking for its parts. So they just put every 940s into the crusher(sob). Over here there are not much mechanics that has experience in redblock Volvos and even the ones who had experience already retired. Nobody knows things like "Volvo 940s has PCV systems" lol. So videos like yours are really helpful to me! Mine is pre 1995 so there is no obd2 port. Went to the Volvo dealership a week ago and they said there's nothing they can do beside the regular oil change because they threw away 940 diagnostics reader decades ago. It seems they heavily rely on the scanners. Anyway thank you again! Just ordered new PCV kit from IPD :) Subscribed!
Been doing red blocks for 26 years: Under no circumstances do you remove that drain tube unless you enjoy pulling oil pans (no one does!). You can't install the new one without the pan removed.
Never were truer words spoken, have had many 1/2 hr jobs turn into many hrs. because of ceased bolts and nuts, broken fittings, and things in impossible places. It is the world of an old 240, in my case 3.
The problem I have on the track on boost dump is oil spurting (from every seal, including the valve cover). Because the Turbo is venting back up through the air filter, any inlet suction becomes positive during dump. I tried adding a one way valve, but it doesn't provide enough flow and I then get dipstick popping on boost. I can't find a sizeable valve, the ones on ebay just use the same innards for large diameter as the smaller diameter.
Interesting issue, few questions I have are how is your current PVC routed and are you putting your turbo into surge? Other considerations are if you are seeing excessive engine blow by leading to pressurizing the crankcase. Ben (White Evo Ben) of Gears and Gasoline dealt with this issue and they cover how they worked thru it. Yoshifab has a thorough PVC system for the B230 that I have heard works well but cannot verify.
@@RAPauto I think the standard system suffers from alot of oil leaks (in places I have put new seals and gaskets), my stock 940 is never oil free especially if you run it hard. I think it just gets worse with extra boost (say 12PSI) and of course its run hard on the track(360 transplant). I don't think there is much surge, it is a bleed valve on an FT, they are normally stable and looks fine on the gauge. The 360 Engine is lower mileage and newer than the 940 engine (both B230FT), but I have put in a 360 oil pump+sump (B200K) which might not be as good as the proper oil pump for the squirter block. So I am a little worried about blow by from engine wear, but I'm working through a HG change at the moment, which might also have been a cause with a small dent in the cylinder gasket ring causing low compression on 1, and maybe leaks into the block (under pressure only, otherwise I got a good vacuum at idle). Will have a look at those other references, thanks
The B230 doesn’t have a “valve” but a flame trap/crank case baffle located under the intake manifold. It’s a block box with an outlet on the top of the box that gets routed to the intake hose pre-turbo (if you have one).
I did not, there have been many affordable products online now that I think work just as well if not better. If you want as cheap as possible, that catch can was $20 but I also had a lot of the materials laying around. Evil Energy makes a catch can for $35 with -10AN fittings that for a total of about $50 you can have drainable catch can with good flow. I have one on a customer car that will be shown on some upcoming videos.
Thanks, this video helped me a lot. I have a problem with my 1993 Volvo 240. I replaced the small tube that connects to the intake manifold. It was completely clogged. But now the idle has risen to 1000/1100 RPM. Why?
More air has been introduced into the engine. Take a look at how to reset the idle first with the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) then mess with the idle screw on the manifold hope this helps!
Yes, periodically. You can sometimes gauge the condition of your engine based upon how much you have to dump out your catch can. Common rule of thumb is dump every oil change. If you are doing it more than that you are either speed racer, own a boxer engine or your engine is aging poorly.
Hi I like ask question I am change on Volvo 940 from 2 liter to 2.3 liter red block engine. My airflow meter on right side how to mow on left side if I am change on left side on turbo hose intake car working very beat please help.
Correct me if I am wrong, this sounds like you doing a swap from an N/A 2.0 to a turbo charged B230? If the MAF is on the "right" side looking at the car from the front, you can either relocate it to the left side and run in before the turbo inlet like most stock setups or run it inline from an intercooler to the intake manifold. Sounds like you may have a larger issue in needing to swap a B230FT harness and ECU into the car first. If that is the case, I would probably have the MAF located on the "left" side before the turbo inlet. ALSO: Verify the MAF you are using is compatible with the B230FT ECU.
@@Indietro25 you need to make the maf wires longer or just have the maf on the boost pipes. You need the 2 ecu’s from the turbo. On is for fuel and one is for spark. If you run the turbo injectors you need to wire in a resistance for them or you’re gonna burn the ecu. Alternatively you can run red Saab injectors, those you don’t need to wire in the resistance for and has the same cc.
I did the globe test today and need to do this on a regular 240 wagon from 1990. I know it will be a nightmare, do you think I'll be able to do without taking the intake manifold?
On an N/A B230 it should be a similar process. You will need to atleast need to take off your intake piping but you will most likely not need to take of your intake manifold. REMINDER: N/A B230's have another component called a Flame Trap, so be sure to grab one from wherever you buy it. I would also do some stretching because this is a job for a gymnast 😂
@@nachoangeloni6062 Positive crankcase pressure is not good for your engine. This leads to leaking seals like the rear main seal and valve stem seals. This could mean your engine begins to burn more oil and/or leak it on the ground which is bad for the car and the environment. Maintaining the PCV system will elongate your engine's health. Overall, a car's PCV system is important and often overlooked.
@@RAPauto Thanks! I'm not overlooking it, I'm just scare about starting to clean it or replace it and end up breaking something. Here in Argentina, no mechanich would touch a Volvo 240, only a few were imported ages ago. Mine was brought by an US embassy staff member. Thanks! Sonner or later I'll end up doing.
@@nachoangeloni6062 you are a braver man than I am. 240's are plentiful in th States making finding parts and maintenance easier. Keep up the good work in Argentina 🇦🇷!
@@DP-sx8nd on an NA car? Maybe. Turbo car? I wouldn't. When I was testing this system, I had a breather on it for a week before I tapped it into the intake pre-turbo. The breather even with the catch can still seeped oil.
@@RAPauto okay. Thank you! Mine is a turbo. Burns oil on deceleration. I’m trying to figure out ways to decrease the oil in the intake. Anyways thanks!
@@RAPautoWell you could swap the PCV to crankcase filter. This means no pressure will build up but your interior will smell like burnt oil and gasoline
@@RAPauto so I ran into a issue with my 94 Volvo while loaning it to a buddy. It blew the heater valve control which I'm waiting to repair once parts come🤦🏾 but how hard would it be to add a small turbo ?
I would first get any basic maintenance done. Turbocharging a NA B230 isn’t terribly difficult but all depends on what tools you have access too or how much you want to spend. There are lots of write ups/videos on how to do this on a Red block so I would do my research first. Basically you need to get everything off of a turbo car (exhaust manifold, turbo, air box, intake piping, ECU and wiring) or go Stand alone ECU
Ugh! Turbo Volvo; a little bit of thrill for a huge price to a well made engine. I gave-up trying to help people with turbo red blocks 20 years ago. Normally aspirated B21/23/230 can last forever if it gets oil changes on time. Remove that flame trap filter, and clean your throttle body and switch. -26 Years of Red Block Service/Repair
Shoutout from South Korea! I'm going to do the glove test today! Redblock Volvos are so rare over here (only handful of them were sold back in 90s Korea) and most of them are already went to the junkyard. Most Koreans change their cars less than 10 years. So things like '1994 940' is just almost nonexistent in the streets :( Even junkyards don't keep the car because there are no one looking for its parts. So they just put every 940s into the crusher(sob). Over here there are not much mechanics that has experience in redblock Volvos and even the ones who had experience already retired. Nobody knows things like "Volvo 940s has PCV systems" lol. So videos like yours are really helpful to me! Mine is pre 1995 so there is no obd2 port. Went to the Volvo dealership a week ago and they said there's nothing they can do beside the regular oil change because they threw away 940 diagnostics reader decades ago. It seems they heavily rely on the scanners. Anyway thank you again! Just ordered new PCV kit from IPD :) Subscribed!
👏👏👏 Awesome to hear someone keeping old Volvos alive in areas of the world where it is difficult. Big air five 🖐
Been doing red blocks for 26 years: Under no circumstances do you remove that drain tube unless you enjoy pulling oil pans (no one does!). You can't install the new one without the pan removed.
Oh buddy, did I learn this the hard way 😂😢
Thanks for the heads up!
I started to, then said unh unh.
Never were truer words spoken, have had many 1/2 hr jobs turn into many hrs. because of ceased bolts and nuts, broken fittings, and things in impossible places. It is the world of an old 240, in my case 3.
The problem I have on the track on boost dump is oil spurting (from every seal, including the valve cover). Because the Turbo is venting back up through the air filter, any inlet suction becomes positive during dump. I tried adding a one way valve, but it doesn't provide enough flow and I then get dipstick popping on boost. I can't find a sizeable valve, the ones on ebay just use the same innards for large diameter as the smaller diameter.
Interesting issue, few questions I have are how is your current PVC routed and are you putting your turbo into surge? Other considerations are if you are seeing excessive engine blow by leading to pressurizing the crankcase. Ben (White Evo Ben) of Gears and Gasoline dealt with this issue and they cover how they worked thru it. Yoshifab has a thorough PVC system for the B230 that I have heard works well but cannot verify.
@@RAPauto I think the standard system suffers from alot of oil leaks (in places I have put new seals and gaskets), my stock 940 is never oil free especially if you run it hard. I think it just gets worse with extra boost (say 12PSI) and of course its run hard on the track(360 transplant). I don't think there is much surge, it is a bleed valve on an FT, they are normally stable and looks fine on the gauge.
The 360 Engine is lower mileage and newer than the 940 engine (both B230FT), but I have put in a 360 oil pump+sump (B200K) which might not be as good as the proper oil pump for the squirter block. So I am a little worried about blow by from engine wear, but I'm working through a HG change at the moment, which might also have been a cause with a small dent in the cylinder gasket ring causing low compression on 1, and maybe leaks into the block (under pressure only, otherwise I got a good vacuum at idle).
Will have a look at those other references, thanks
Funny and positive video.Thx
Thank ya!
I have not seen this PCV valve in my volvo 740gle 8v (704).it has to be in..or not?..I have leaking problems since 2 weeks ago..please help me!!
The B230 doesn’t have a “valve” but a flame trap/crank case baffle located under the intake manifold. It’s a block box with an outlet on the top of the box that gets routed to the intake hose pre-turbo (if you have one).
Did you ever make the video on the catchcan?
I did not, there have been many affordable products online now that I think work just as well if not better. If you want as cheap as possible, that catch can was $20 but I also had a lot of the materials laying around. Evil Energy makes a catch can for $35 with -10AN fittings that for a total of about $50 you can have drainable catch can with good flow. I have one on a customer car that will be shown on some upcoming videos.
Thanks, this video helped me a lot.
I have a problem with my 1993 Volvo 240. I replaced the small tube that connects to the intake manifold. It was completely clogged. But now the idle has risen to 1000/1100 RPM.
Why?
More air has been introduced into the engine. Take a look at how to reset the idle first with the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) then mess with the idle screw on the manifold hope this helps!
OG wisdom says leave the drain hose alone, unless you have the engine out of the car.
Oh man did I learn that the hard way! 😂
the drain hose is legit a nightmare. It can get stuck in the evap can and come with it when you go to pull it out.
Does the oil catch can have to have oil dumped out of it periodically ?
Yes, periodically. You can sometimes gauge the condition of your engine based upon how much you have to dump out your catch can. Common rule of thumb is dump every oil change. If you are doing it more than that you are either speed racer, own a boxer engine or your engine is aging poorly.
Hi I like ask question I am change on Volvo 940 from 2 liter to 2.3 liter red block engine. My airflow meter on right side how to mow on left side if I am change on left side on turbo hose intake car working very beat please help.
Correct me if I am wrong, this sounds like you doing a swap from an N/A 2.0 to a turbo charged B230? If the MAF is on the "right" side looking at the car from the front, you can either relocate it to the left side and run in before the turbo inlet like most stock setups or run it inline from an intercooler to the intake manifold. Sounds like you may have a larger issue in needing to swap a B230FT harness and ECU into the car first. If that is the case, I would probably have the MAF located on the "left" side before the turbo inlet. ALSO: Verify the MAF you are using is compatible with the B230FT ECU.
Thanks very much
@@Indietro25 you need to make the maf wires longer or just have the maf on the boost pipes. You need the 2 ecu’s from the turbo. On is for fuel and one is for spark. If you run the turbo injectors you need to wire in a resistance for them or you’re gonna burn the ecu. Alternatively you can run red Saab injectors, those you don’t need to wire in the resistance for and has the same cc.
Legend
I did the globe test today and need to do this on a regular 240 wagon from 1990. I know it will be a nightmare, do you think I'll be able to do without taking the intake manifold?
On an N/A B230 it should be a similar process. You will need to atleast need to take off your intake piping but you will most likely not need to take of your intake manifold. REMINDER: N/A B230's have another component called a Flame Trap, so be sure to grab one from wherever you buy it. I would also do some stretching because this is a job for a gymnast 😂
@@RAPauto THanks! I keep delaying it ... is the issue just the oil stain at the garage or can it really affect your engine? THanks!
@@nachoangeloni6062 Positive crankcase pressure is not good for your engine. This leads to leaking seals like the rear main seal and valve stem seals. This could mean your engine begins to burn more oil and/or leak it on the ground which is bad for the car and the environment. Maintaining the PCV system will elongate your engine's health. Overall, a car's PCV system is important and often overlooked.
@@RAPauto Thanks! I'm not overlooking it, I'm just scare about starting to clean it or replace it and end up breaking something. Here in Argentina, no mechanich would touch a Volvo 240, only a few were imported ages ago. Mine was brought by an US embassy staff member. Thanks! Sonner or later I'll end up doing.
@@nachoangeloni6062 you are a braver man than I am. 240's are plentiful in th States making finding parts and maintenance easier. Keep up the good work in Argentina 🇦🇷!
Can we just delete this?
Not if you like your engine! If you remove your PCV system you will likely blow seals and cause major oil leaks.
@@RAPauto thank you. I meant like just put a breather filter to atmosphere. 🤷🏻♂️
@@DP-sx8nd on an NA car? Maybe. Turbo car? I wouldn't. When I was testing this system, I had a breather on it for a week before I tapped it into the intake pre-turbo. The breather even with the catch can still seeped oil.
@@RAPauto okay. Thank you! Mine is a turbo. Burns oil on deceleration. I’m trying to figure out ways to decrease the oil in the intake. Anyways thanks!
@@RAPautoWell you could swap the PCV to crankcase filter. This means no pressure will build up but your interior will smell like burnt oil and gasoline
Cómo puedo conectar un oil catch en un c30?
I felt that sigh of disappointment. Old cars man, I love them and hate them equally. It's like an abusive relationship.
It’s definitely a Love/Hate relationship at times…
New to the channel great vid new sub! Have a few questions to ask!
Fire away!
@@RAPauto so I ran into a issue with my 94 Volvo while loaning it to a buddy. It blew the heater valve control which I'm waiting to repair once parts come🤦🏾 but how hard would it be to add a small turbo ?
I would first get any basic maintenance done. Turbocharging a NA B230 isn’t terribly difficult but all depends on what tools you have access too or how much you want to spend. There are lots of write ups/videos on how to do this on a Red block so I would do my research first. Basically you need to get everything off of a turbo car (exhaust manifold, turbo, air box, intake piping, ECU and wiring) or go Stand alone ECU
@@RAPauto ok thanks 👍🏿
Well made video, thanks!
Ugh! Turbo Volvo; a little bit of thrill for a huge price to a well made engine. I gave-up trying to help people with turbo red blocks 20 years ago. Normally aspirated B21/23/230 can last forever if it gets oil changes on time. Remove that flame trap filter, and clean your throttle body and switch.
-26 Years of Red Block Service/Repair
An NA B2X in my experience is the Volvo equivalent to the Toyota 22re. Do your basic maintenance and they will go forever!