It is a creative idea but commercially, it is not practical and expensive. As a commercial flooring contractor for over three decades, I would suggest you demonstrate your idea to stair tread suppliers such as Tarkett, Mannington and etc. Good luck from Vancouver, BC.
Thank you for your comment. This is for residential do-it-yourself people. We are not set up to do it for commercial use. Stair Nosing is very expensive to order through a flooring business, that's why we offer it at a lesser cost.
I was researching how to do this and felt that neither the V cut nor the squarish / table saw method would be ideal. V cut goes too deep leaving the material too thin and subject to stretching/splitting. table saw method (3 passes, one deep and two shallow on either side) leaves too much of a void on either side of the edge. Then I discovered there is a router bit that is like a V, but with a flat spot at the tip. I think this should be ideal as it lets the material bend without cutting too deep or leaving any void in the finished bend. There is basically no void because the flat part forms a minimal radius and the angled parts meet up to each other, if that makes sense. Minimal stress on the material while leaving it as thick as possible. Take a look at Amana 45793 or 45794. I would be curious what you think. They are intended for the bending of some kind of aluminum panel. I haven't done it yet but I have both of those bits ordered and will try them soon. Also, I notice "vinyl" plank is rigid if it is the snap together type but floppy if it's the glue down type. Not sure if that makes a difference as to how you notch it. I am working with the floppy material and it seems pretty easy to form. Anyway, thank you for the video.
@@michaelvarga7714 hi, yes I made some test pieces and it looks really good. I haven't completed my stairs yet but the cuts look good. easy peasy. 45794 should give you a good result. 45793 will work too but removes just a little more material than is probably necessary. make a couple test pieces to fine-tune the depth. cut out enough material to make a clean fold but not too much that there's there isn't some meat along the edge. the rubbery material that I have can be formed pretty easily with a heat gun. however it will need to be clamped well during gluing because it wants to spring back to flat.
@@Sean_y4k2l5 Just curious. I'm not really interested in dropping 60 or 70 bucks on a router bit that I will not likely ever use for another project. Do you think it would work to just take a cheep V bit and grind the tip flat? The LVP is such soft material I think it just might work and not break the bank.
Yes, we heat the top as most have an underlay, and we don't want to damage the underlay underneath. The top does most of the stretching. Here's our website to learn more about our vinyl nosing InnovativeYetSimple.com
Nice, I m from Australia. Quick question, how much thick you left for bending after v Grove? Have you made cnc machine your self .I assume it is march3 software.
Stair nosing are built stronger than any flooring product. I think this is why manufacturers do not mess with making their own out of lvp.
Yes I agree. But, we make them good quality and less expensive. Innovativeyetsimple.com
Glad I have a machine just like it!!!! Lol
It is a creative idea but commercially, it is not practical and expensive.
As a commercial flooring contractor for over three decades, I would suggest you demonstrate your idea to stair tread suppliers such as Tarkett, Mannington and etc.
Good luck from Vancouver, BC.
Thank you for your comment.
This is for residential do-it-yourself people. We are not set up to do it for commercial use. Stair Nosing is very expensive to order through a flooring business, that's why we offer it at a lesser cost.
Does not using a form to bend around effect the straightness of the tracks?
I was researching how to do this and felt that neither the V cut nor the squarish / table saw method would be ideal. V cut goes too deep leaving the material too thin and subject to stretching/splitting. table saw method (3 passes, one deep and two shallow on either side) leaves too much of a void on either side of the edge.
Then I discovered there is a router bit that is like a V, but with a flat spot at the tip. I think this should be ideal as it lets the material bend without cutting too deep or leaving any void in the finished bend. There is basically no void because the flat part forms a minimal radius and the angled parts meet up to each other, if that makes sense. Minimal stress on the material while leaving it as thick as possible.
Take a look at Amana 45793 or 45794. I would be curious what you think. They are intended for the bending of some kind of aluminum panel. I haven't done it yet but I have both of those bits ordered and will try them soon.
Also, I notice "vinyl" plank is rigid if it is the snap together type but floppy if it's the glue down type. Not sure if that makes a difference as to how you notch it. I am working with the floppy material and it seems pretty easy to form.
Anyway, thank you for the video.
You're very welcome. Good luck with your project.
Have you tried those bits and made it work?
@@michaelvarga7714 hi, yes I made some test pieces and it looks really good. I haven't completed my stairs yet but the cuts look good. easy peasy.
45794 should give you a good result. 45793 will work too but removes just a little more material than is probably necessary.
make a couple test pieces to fine-tune the depth. cut out enough material to make a clean fold but not too much that there's there isn't some meat along the edge.
the rubbery material that I have can be formed pretty easily with a heat gun. however it will need to be clamped well during gluing because it wants to spring back to flat.
@@Sean_y4k2l5 Just curious. I'm not really interested in dropping 60 or 70 bucks on a router bit that I will not likely ever use for another project. Do you think it would work to just take a cheep V bit and grind the tip flat? The LVP is such soft material I think it just might work and not break the bank.
@@innercityracer I guess that should work fine. seems like a good idea to me.
What CNC is this?
What? No Cnc heat machine?
Are you heating the top !?!?
Yes, we heat the top as most have an underlay, and we don't want to damage the underlay underneath. The top does most of the stretching.
Here's our website to learn more about our vinyl nosing InnovativeYetSimple.com
@@innovativeyetsimpleremoved the backing and heated from underside, worked great👍
@@AZVIDSawesome!
Where you located , Country
Edmonton Alberta Canada
Nice, I m from Australia.
Quick question, how much thick you left for bending after v Grove?
Have you made cnc machine your self .I assume it is march3 software.