Calculating View Camera Exposure - The Spotmeter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2014
- Another video in my series of B&W Workflow videos. Here we look at calculating the camera exposure for the Wilderness V view camera and for the Fuji GX680. I use the Minolta Spotmeter and a simplified version of the Zone System to decide where I want the image tones to sit in the tonal range as well as a consideration of the Subject Brightness Range. I mention briefly the idea of whether we should expand the SBR using the N+1 N-1 approach of Ansel Adams. I don't do this since I think that the right approach is to leave the contrast of the film as it is and then match the contrast of the resulting negative tot eh contrast range of the photographic paper.
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Thank you Dave for the insight. Learning tons from your posts. Keep them coming please.
Thank you for your posts & I'm enjoying your channel very much. This video is very helpful as I'm learning about the Zone System. The concept of the Zone System is very easy but I admit I'm finding my interpretations of values are a little more challenging. Thanks again and all the best :)
Brilliant video! I have a Pentax Spotmeter V, and although I like its analogue simplicity, I want a digital meter. I have found a Minolta Spotmeter M (is your an M?) for a decent price and was wondering if you recommend it over a Sekonic or Pentax? I know the Sekonic (from the L-508 to the L-748) have a wealth of functions but they are eye wateringly expensive, as is the Pentax.
Hi John
Many thanks for taking the time. Mine is indeed a Minolta M (I made a more detailed video about it here th-cam.com/video/0bju8oFs2E8/w-d-xo.html). I like the fact that the minolta is a reasonable price and is simple to use, with greater functionality come greater complexity so just another thing to get wrong!! I have never used the Pentax, but if you are getting good exposures with it then I would personally stick with it, I have had the Minolta for decades, it certainly does a great job for me!
Dave
Natural World Explorations i watched that video straight after this video actually. Again very informative. I quite like the idea of logging the readings and then averaging them, something you cant obviously do with the analogue meters.
Yes, a useful functionality for sure, though I usually do that myself so that I can make judgements along the way!
Do you think I could use my Canon EOS 3 as a spotmeter for large format and 6x9?
Basically it's a DSLR that uses 35mm film with modern canon lenses and has a spot meter. So i thought that I could maybe meter the zones with it and then just use the same settings on LF?
I know I can't get an EV reading on EOS3. I could maybe hook a 50mm 1.8 canon lens to eos 3, dial in the ASA of the 6x9 roll film i'm using on LF, set the same apreture on both Canon and Horseman (super Topcor 90) and meter to get the correct shutter speed on Canon so that I can use the same setting on Horseman.
I know it does not work with digital sensors but this might work because bith cameras use film? Would the bellows of LF make any difference for metering compared to 35mm slr?
Care to explain more on this with a higher contrast scene like a landscape with high dynamic range? I’m trying to practice how to meter shadows, outdoors, and then put the shadows in zone IV so I can under develop and get detailed and textured shadows but not blown highlights.
Thank you
Hi Nicholas
This is actually quite a complex question and very much the 'holy grail of exposure'! Essentially you meter the darkest shadow where you want to maintain detail and/or texture and then the birghtest highlight where you want detail and/or texture. As you suggest you would put that shadow at zone 3 or 4 (depending upon whether you just want texture or also detail) then that will tell you where your highlight would fall, if this is zone 8 that will be fine go ahead and take your shot, if it falls above zone 9 or even 10 then you would need to compensate in the development, such as semi stand development or N+1 development for example. But this relies on a carefully calibrated workflow from shooting through to final development so that you have pinned down your effect ISO and that your process is consistent
I hope that that helps
Dave
Dave Smith Photography great answer. Thank you
@@nickfanzo you are very welcome
Can you please share how to use the Minolta Spotmeter F in a video? I've got one but am having a hard time using it. Thanks!
Hi Grant, No problem ... I will do that in the next few days. Dave
vThanks! Trying to learn the zone system with it and a bit confused on how it functions.
Your final exposure calculations will include increases for reciprocity (assuming a time around 4 secs ) and probably bellows extension, right?
Hi bozo859
Exactly so. For my shooting bellows extension isn't that much of a problem, but occasionally I do need to factor it in, I usually just guess at it though - maybe a stop or two depending on how much extension I have is close enough for B&W film and stand development. Reciprocity is more of an issue for LF, and again I usually give one to three stops depending on what the exposure is
Let me know if you need anything more
Dave
I have read in some sources that as well as increasing the exposure to compensate for Reciprocity Failure you also need to decrease development time with B/W film, is this correct
Hi Steve
I think that that is a mixing of two different things. When you increase exposure to compensate for reciprocity for example you are in fact exposing at the correct exposure so development compensation should not be necessary. It is necessary to vary development times if you are pushing or pulling the film (ie shooting at other than your normal EV for that film)
Dave
Natural World Explorations cheers Dave keep up with the excellent videos
O, please stop. I am falling asleep. So bad show.
+Jaco van Lith I usually find that when one has nothing to say, it is best to say nothing! No-one forced you to watch, don't like it? Well go elsewhere, because you surely aren't welcome here
@@DaveJSmith rudeness is everywhere isn't it?
@@fotolookconde It really is and when you go check out what these people are offering instead, maybe that is better, well of course they have a channel with no videos and no subscribers!!
Many thanks for taking the time it is much appreciated
Dave
@@DaveJSmith I have been finding your videos very useful and intriguing, thank you Dave
@@alecothegecko Thanks for that, it is much appreciated, Dave