Grafting Fruit Trees | Bark Grafting to change varieties | Bark Grafting Updates
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Bark grafting is an easy technique you can use to change the variety of an unproductive tree. You can even turn it into a multiple varieties fruit tree. In this example, i am changing the variety of an Almond Tree, but the same technique can be used with most fruit trees. Almond trees are compatible with other fruit types of the Genus Prunus, like peaches, apricots, plums and nectarines, so you can graft most varieties of these fruit types using an Almond tree as a rootstock.
In this video, I also show updates of earlier bark grafts featured in earlier videos, showing the evolution of some of them in the last few weeks.
Check the video "Changing varieties in Old Pear Trees" and "Lateral Bark Grafting" for more detail on these 2 bark graft techniques.
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Check my other grafting and pruning videos for more information on other useful techniques that you can use on fruit trees.
Useful links:
• Grafting Fruit Trees |... - Grafting Fruit Trees | Changing varieties in old Pear Trees | Bark Grafting
• Grafting Fruit Trees |... - Grafting Fruit Trees | The best grafting techniques for Apples, Pears and other fruit trees
• Pruning Fruit Trees | ... - Pruning Fruit Trees | Pruning Techniques | Essential Pruning Course
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Hurts So Good Blues - Unicorn Heads
In the Distance - Dan Lebowitz
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I really appreciate you putting the updates in, it's always nice to see how things turn out!
Real glad I found your channel. I am grow zone 6b. Keep your great videos coming. You are a great teacher.
I watched many of your videos and felt confident enough to give bark grafting a try. I grafted several varieties of cherry scion wood onto two trunks. I wrapped the trunk tight with plumbers tape and covered possible entry points with wax, and wrapped the scion wood with parrafin, covered with plastic bag and foil. Then about a month later i saw swelling and leaf protruding on several scions. I was so happy! Success! So i removed the foil, bag and parrafin but about 2 1/2 weeks later all the scion (8 total) withered, and appear dried up including the ones with leaves. (It rained several times from the time I exposed the scions and there were sunny days too). What did I do wrong?
Great great video
Top work_ bark grafting
Thank you very much
You make that look so easy. Thank you so much. If I'm brave enough I might try this late next spring. The weather here in the UK should be warmer then. As early spring may be to cold.
I have a pretty cool walnut grafting video I took here in our nursery. Basically same idea put it’s a puzzle cut
Walnuts can be bark grafted, but the sap flow can be so strong that the grafts might drown or fail because of the pressure. In most cases they are nailed to the rootstock and you have to make a few deep cuts at the base of the rootstock to release the excess of sap.
JSacadura we drill a hole at the base of the rootstock to release the flow.
That's also a good option. I Have seen it done in some walnut grafting videos. Thanks for the tip.
JSacadura downfall to drilling is if one tree is infected with crowngal, the next 5 or so will be infected from the drilling
You are a ninja👏🏼
Thank you for sharing 😁
Classic technique, I have some great videos of doing this in my hometown
I liked the music more than the video,that's some good slow blues!
I most sincerely appreciate your knowledge with everyone. Thanks, Jim. Do you have problems with deer or other animals?
Hi, Jim. Thanks for your comment. Fortunately (or unfortunately, as i love those animals) i don't have problems with deer. The major problem, over here, are wild rabbits that nibble at the base of younger trees and destroy them in the process. I have to use protections at the base of the trees, for several years, until they are hard enough and even then, when removed, they may cause some damage. When fruiting, i have lots of problems with common black birds picking the fruits, spoiling large quantities and promoting diseases.
Esta-se sempre a aprender.Anseio pelos proximos videos pois tenho muitas arvores de fruto.Uma feliz e santa PASCOA
Woah this awesome! Thank you for sharing this technique!
Thank u sir . Stay healthy
Bom vídeo, irmão, obrigado por compartilhar 👍👍👍
Very cool!!! Thanks for sharing!
Superior 👏👏👏👍
Thankyou Sir Jsacudara for the this vidio. Verry good. 🙂
Vamos pra mais um show de enxertia Feliz Páscoa.
Wow
Excellent vid! I love the examples, clear images, and detailed instructions. Have you got any experience with using a grafting tool for smaller scions? I haven't grafted anything in my orchard yet, but I'm itching to try this out.
I have used a grafting tool in the past. If you have a high quality one and adequate diameter scions it works pretty well. Unfortunately, in our gardens, available scion diameters and grafting situations are far from standard so, the tool quickly shows its inadequacy. The best option is practicing grafting using a grafting knife. Most of the first grafts will probably fail but soon, people get better and better, and its one of the most rewarding activities when growing fruit trees.
For me, the best and most successful method of grafting thin scions is the “under the bark” method during spring and summer sap flow. I use the usual cutter knife. I am interested in crabapple trees, and their branches are very thin.
This is probably the best and most informative video on this subject I've ever seen!
Could I use these techniques to graft better variants of lemon trees into my well established but not good lemon tree? When would be the best time of year/season to do the first graft technique? Could I also graft other citrus variants like oranges and tangerines on to my lemon tree with the same technique?
Thank you for sharing you knowledge.
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Changing varieties in established citrus trees is possible using bark grafts if the trees are not too old and healthy. its very important to leave nursing branches and cover the graft with a plastic bag inside a paper bag (to avoid dehydration and direct sun). Most citrus are interchangeable but some varieties might be incompatible and the weak flow of sap between them will produce weak grafts that tend to break after a while.
Patch grafts can also be used to change varieties in established citrus trees.
@@JSacadura Much appreciated for your feedback, thank you!
excellent!
Hola Marstro ?Esta tehnica se puede hacer en unas ramas gruesas de higuera ? Gracias otravez por todo lo que nos enseñas .
Las higueras no reaccionan muy bien a este tipo de poda agressiva. Por veces, el tronco principal se seca y salen ramas nuevas por los lados. Por eso, es mejor injertar las ramas y no utilizar el injerto de corona, ya que si el tronco principal se seca, el injerto se va a perder.
Great sir!👏👏👏
very very nice work
It's getting late in the season here in 8A. My scions have burst their buds, but barely. Any chance I can still use them? Cherry and apple.
thank you very much .vert interesting
Thats cool
I want to graft fruit branches, can I use any root stock even non fruit variety
Great as always. You certainly have a green hand if you know what I mean. Can you tell us where you get the scions in March because at that time there is no appreciable new growth yet. Do you use last years shoots? Thank you.
Thanks. I use scions that were collected with the trees in dormancy. Some have to wait in the fridge for a few months until its time to graft. Check my video on collecting and storing scions to know more - th-cam.com/video/7ToL5QHIDq4/w-d-xo.html
I noticed you aren't using any rubbing alcohol or anything for sterility or disinfectant. Do you ever? Or do you have no problem using untreated hands and knives? It's not quite clear to me which growth I should leave in which growth needs to be removed, is there a way you might clearly differentiate to make this easier for me to execute correctly? Thanks for the video
Hi, Mark. I always disinfect my knives, secateurs and hands before any grafting job. I should have made that more obvious (thanks for the tip).
When leaving nurse branches, immediately after the graft, i always remove any apical buds (the tips of the grafted branches or the tip of the nurse branches). Then, i gradually, remove new buds and some leaves as soon as i see graft growing activity. But it depends on the type of graft. For instance, when chip-budding i immediately remove all buds below the grafts and the tip. You have to see the tree being grafted as a whole and develop a feeling for what is useful to keep the sap flowing and what can be detrimental to the grafts growth (because of too much competition). After the grafts have grown several inches and i am confident they have a good connection and sap flow of their own, i remove all other growth (unless i want a multiple varieties tree). I will try to be more clear on this on future videos.
@@JSacadura thanks for the quick reply, I'm not totally familiar with all the terminology used in that response, but will try to look into it further. I have not tried these methods and look forward to giving them a shot next year. I'm in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, where it's still pretty chilly and I've been harvesting my Scion wood in February and grafting in April. I am wondering how long to optimally keep it before it degrades too much. How long in advance do you harvest your Scion wood? How long before the last frost, or at what average daily temperature do you start grafting?
Nurse branches are branches that you leave on the original tree when you change the variety (an example in this video - th-cam.com/video/b-iyXqG10YU/w-d-xo.html - min 2.15). If you wrap the collected scions tightly with kitchen film (the one used to wrap food) and store them in the vegetable drawer in the fridge, they can last several months in good condition. I still have scions stored, that i am going to use, that were collected 3-4 months ago. Pears and Apples are quite forgiving and can be grafted with colder temperatures if you protect them (by wrapping the scion in parafilm) so, i wait that the rootstock starts to show signs of breaking dormancy and just start grafting, even if the nights are still a bit cold (but i don't have the very low temperatures you have in your zone). For me that is usually early/mid March (lowest night temperatures are never below 0º C by then). With other fruit types i wait for the temperatures to warm up a bit more.
훌륭합니다👍 good
Do you have to cut the whole tree off, or could you just cut one the branches off and then graft that branch ?
You can do it in a couple of main branches leaving one or two as "nurse" branches. It's usually safer that way. You only cut the "nurse" branches after the grafts have taken. An example, grafting an established plum tree in the first minutes of this video - th-cam.com/video/FwzclXcI7NE/w-d-xo.html
I have pomegranate tree in my front yard and my neighbor has an apple tree . Would I be able to use this technique to have pomegranates on o e side and apples on the other side of the tree ?? Thanks for any advise
Nice job, I would have been tempted to put at least 3 scions on that, to prevent die back.
I probably should, but in my zone two have been enough, so i am sticking with that approach (it makes managing the resulting tree easier, as i don't like too many main branches emerging from the same area)
Hola y enhorabuena por tu vídeo
Que tipo de tratamiento recomienda para injertos en almendros? Estoy cambiando la variedad a un grupo de almendros de más de 20 años y los injertos van OK, pero algunos tienen las hojitas arrugadas.
Gracias por sus sabios comentarios
Hola. Las hojas arrugadas son provocadas, en muchos casos, por insectos chupadores de savia (pulgones). Un insecticida sistémico es lo ideal en esos casos, ya que penetra los tejidos de la planta y los insectos lo absorben con la savia. Los insecticidas sistémicos y penetrantes ofrecen la ventaja de ser resistentes al lavado por lluvia. Pero puede ser otra problema, por eso, lo ideal, es levar una hojita arrugada a la tienda de productos fitosanitarios y preguntar ahí cual es mejor producto a utilizar. Si no se pretende utilizar pesticidas y se se confirma que son pulgones, el jabón potásico y el aceite de Neem pueden ser utilizados, en alternativa.
Absolutely❤🎼🎹🎼🎹🎼❤
Is it possible to graft apricot scion onto peach tree similarly peach or almond Scion into apricot???
They are all in the same genus and most are compatible between them. I have successfully grafted between them in the past. Beware that there's always a chance that some varieties will have a degree of incompatibility, though.
@@JSacadura good 👍
May I ask, what kind of grafting knife you are using?
I have an avocado tree that never produce avocado for the last 15years, do i have to cut the whole tree like you did to grafting different varieties?
A lack of produce may be the result of a lack of a certain nutrient in the soil. Might be worthwhile to test your soil. That being said sometimes trees get too old to produce. I would see how old the tree is and plan from there.
If it produced in the past there might be something that's affecting the production, like missing nutrients as Luke as suggested. Nevertheless, you can always check which varieties produce well in your area and graft a couple in the tree main branches or decide to be a bit more drastic as I did.
@@JSacadura I figure it's about the same way with grapevines and apple trees if they don't have enough of the right kind of nutrients they go into an energy save mode and stop producing fruit in order to save what's left to stay alive.
is this the history guy?
What is tge best time to graft what month . In the south zone9 .
When the trees start to leave dormancy. In my zone 9a, its around early March for most fruit types.
Is that cling wrap? on them branches? If so does it work as sorta a green house effect and the branches/leafs grow through at the buding point?
Iv tryed grafts in the woods on trees a lot as a child but non ever took sadly but I’m no quiting man and I’m full of my American spirit I hope to prefect this with in the next year now that I am older and have learned more
Its Parafilm, Tyler. A wax based film that protects the graft and that the buds have no problem breaking through. The first grafts tend to fail due to imperfect cuts and technique. With time they will start to work, as you get better. Don't give up. Its extremely rewarding.
Can i do this on walnut tree
Ainda vou a tempo de enxertar amendoeira na ameixeira? Zona de Coimbra dá? Obrigado
Desde que tenha os garfos armazenados ou ainda com as gemas por abrir (em dormência), ainda é possível.
What kind of tape do you use to wrap the bark grafts?
Electrical tape, but you can use any flexible tape that is resistant enough for the job.
Note: if the original tree is fruit or nut baring, I would leave a couple branches to get produce from the original variety as well... If desired
Hi, Luke. I usually do that. It even helps with pollination also. But in this case I had 2 more trees of the same variety near by, so there was no need to do it.
Why not V-shape both sides equally when bark grafting?
Does anyone know how to avoid the cut stump crying?
Great videos, what would be the latest you would do these types of grafts in zone 9a?
When’
In most years i wouldn't go much beyond April, as the temperatures start to be too high and dissecation of the cut rootstock tissues and scions could prove to be a major issue.
How many days after open it
If you are referring to the aluminium foil that is shielding the grafts from the sun, I usually remove it after 2-3 weeks (as soon as I see the first signs of new small leaves breaking through the parafilm).
Me refiero al injerto de corona... Gracias
Jim, I'm a very beginner at grafting and I try to understand the principles before touching anything. Your grafts seems simple and I really like them, but I am having a hard time seeing the cambium contact between the scion and the rootstock. So you cut the bark and insert the scion. The scion has some cambium surface exposed, but where is the matching touching cambium area in the rootstock, I can't seem to see it. Thanks
The cambium is just beneath the bark. When you lift the bark the cambium layer is exposed and makes contact with the scion cambium. Its not really necessary but, if you noticed, before inserting, i also like to make a very shallow cut at the side of the scion, exposing some cambium that makes contact with the side of the bark that isn't lifted and, many times, adds an additional point of cambium contact.
JSacadura thank you, so to get the picture even more, as you lift the bark, is the rootstock's cambium on the outer trunk layer or on the inner lifted bark side?
On the outer trunk layer. For instance, when air layering, you remove a ring of bark. If you don't scrape the cambium layer on the trunk, it can reconstruct the phloem vascular tissues quite quickly and the air layer might fail. That's why you can make just one single bevel cut on the scion. The uncut side of the scion that is positioned towards the bark when inserted, as no cambium layer to connect to, so there is no need to remove the bark on that side of the scion (a bevel cut is only done on that side if the diameter of the scion is too large and you want to allow for an easier insertion).
JSacadura very interesting! As we talk about rooting now, I saw some folks scraping some bark and exposing cambium before rooting a cutting, to make this more effective should they rather scrape even deeper and through the cambium?
Properly stimulated the cambium cells can redifferentiate as new root cells, so its not a good idea to get rid of them. The scrapping is done so the rooting hormone can easily reach those cells. I show it here, min. 1.30 - th-cam.com/video/cwPvmG9sK_Y/w-d-xo.html
Can I use Teflon tape (usually used for plumbing) as a crafting tape?
You can secure the grafts with it. But don't cover the buds or they won't break free, like they do when using parafilm.
Is it possible to use silicon to stop water
I wouldn't use those kinds of materials to seal the tree wound. They can affect the plant in ways we can't predict. There are traditional recipes that use wax, bee wax and other safe materials. Search the web and you will probably will find them.
What is the gray tape that you use to protect the graft...and where do you get it?
Hi, David. When changing varieties in these established trees you just need to apply pressure and one of the best and cheapest ways is using a stretchy elastic tape (i'm using normal electric tape to do the job).
Hello sir
I want to ask can I use selicon or putty for grafting woond
I wouldn't use those kinds of materials to seal the tree wound. They can affect the plant in ways we can't predict. There are traditional recipes that use wax, bee wax and other safe materials. Search the web and you will probably will find them.
Can you graft a fruit limb to a Maple tree ?
It wouldn't work, Rick. You have to graft within the same species for compatibility to occur. Fruit trees are not compatible with Maple trees.
I understand the stock should have leaves but yet to flower
Could I graft a persimmon scions to an old pine tree?
No, they are not compatible. Persimmons can be grafted only on other persimmons. You can only graft species that are compatible. For instance you can graft most species of quince, pear and asian pear together in the same tree. Some species of peaches, plums, nectarines, almonds, and other fruit types might also work together (not all varieties are compatible though), because they belong to the same Family (Rosaceae) and Genus of plants (they are all Prunus). But, in most cases you can only graft varieties of the same species (different varieties of apple tree on other apple tree, for instance)
I learned how to graft from my grandpa grafting olive trees
How would you go about treating sucking aphids on young growth please?
The most effective option is using a systemic insecticide. As the aphids suck the sap they ingest the product and dye. A product that acts on contact may not affect the insects as they are protected inside the curled leaves. If you don't want to use a pesticide you can try a natural product based on potassium soap or Neem oil.
Sir when bark grafting is done ?
The best time is when the trees are beginning to leave dormancy (early spring in my area). That way the grafts will have a much better of success, since the flow of nutrients is starting, the new union will form quickly and the scion doesn't have time to dry out.
@@JSacadura thank u sir
For a bark graft, is it better to shave off both sides of the scionwood evenly like done in below Stephen Hayes video (similar to what you'd do for a perfect 'V' aka Cleft graft)?
th-cam.com/video/LrE2CkQHudI/w-d-xo.html
or how its done in this JSacadura video where its done a bit different. Like he only does the bottom scion side seen at 2m10s and I guess he slightly cuts a *slight* amount on the opposite top side at 2m20s (he does this kinda off the video) and then he shaves off a slight amount along 90 degrees off to the side of the scion as well around 2m43s (along the same distance as the 1st bottom side cut).
Its hard to know whats best style since they are both highly reputable master gardeners/grafters :).
Would you use one in different instance or just personal preferences of the grafters.
I asked same question in both videos hoping to get an answer from the grafters or other youtubers who may have an opinion on this. Maybe one gets more cambium contact?
following
Sr Jaime enviei-lhe uma MP no infojardin. Veja se há essa possibilidade. Abraço!
Há bastante tempo que não passo pelo forum, Ricardo. Vou tentar passar por lá este fim de semana para ler a sua mensagem. Cumprimentos.
Some words about timing would be good.
Nice softcore porn music in the background....
You do it so quickly you don't show which way it's rotated when it's slipped in. It pisses me off!
chamfer