Jesus Christ. Thank you so much man. I've been trying for a hell of a long time trying to get the ribbon cable in. I was about ready to give up and just downgrade to an F3 board when I came across your video. Those retention pins really messed me up. At least everything works now and the Matek F4 board performs well. Thank you man.
I love the way this video feels like I'm hanging out in Josh's drone room, building a quad, talking about steaks, etc. Very well done, Josh, and yes... the mat MUST be straight! :)
Joshua, your videos are just great, informative, clear and as a result so helpful for the FPV community. Well done and thank you for having invested so much time in recording and processing your vids.
Come for the quad talk, stay for the cooking advice. 😃 I'm very curious to see how the video looks - there could be noise introduced with the pdb and vtx all mixed together. Also, did you put a capacitor on this build?
Looking forward to part 2. New to quads and fpv so I like to see these builds before attempting on my own. Thanks to your videos I'm off to a good start and I'm not burning electronics up anymore. Keep them coming!
+Joshua Bardwell Matek offer instructions to use Soft Serial for Smart Port telemetry on their website as well as the un-inverted pin hack. Less fiddly soLdering- love these FCs they have all the pads you need. S5 and S6 - Camera OSD and Smart Port.
You are correct. I enabled softserial on pad S5 (I have a XSR-M) by following the instructions on the Matek website to do the necessary changes via CLI in Betaflight. Instructions: Type “resource motor 5 none” in CLI, press ENTER. Type “resource serial_tx 11 A15” in CLI, press ENTER. Type “Save”, press ENTER. Done.
I have a question that, I can't seem to find very much information on. It has to do with setting up camera_control and the modes for CC on BF tab. I am very intrested in setting this up, as I would like to be able to access my camera settings menu with my remote and goggles. I have the matek f405 and found some info on the DAC pad and tried to make it work but could not. 1.) I enabled camera_control_mode = DAC 2.) Set resource CC to A04 3.) Left all CC to default. 4.) Set a switch to CC in modes tab, but it never activated. 5.) Tried to yaw right, to no avail. I will try using the signal pin 5 tomorrow with a resistor, as seen in a few videos, however would like your input on the subject. Thanks for all you videos.
Those ribbon connectors were giving you a hard time. Also if you melt a big of solder on the tip of the soldering iron it really gets heat across a lot faster even at lot temperature. Thumbs up!
Hey Joshua great video would you know if those little plastic slide in sections for the ribbon cable connection are available I accidentally broke one of mine
Hey +Joshua, i'm new to multicopter building/flying and really enjoy all the information you provide on your blog and youtube. Thanks for that! One thing in this video confuses me. You say if you don't have a GND solder pad for the esc-sgn-gnd just solder it to the power-gnd or if the ESCs are free desolder the gnd-wire. Actually on my ESC (DJI 30A Opto) the sgn-gnd and the power-gnd are already shorted, so does it make sense to have the extra gnd-wire? I read alot about this and all I understood was that I should solder the sgn-gnd because of different 16V(4S)gnd-level on power-gnd and 5V-sgn-gnd.
I found a drawback I didn't expect with the FCHUB-VTX. I went to put one in a SabotageRC Dingo and if you use the 6mm standoff that comes with it, the tabs for the XT60 wires actually touch the frame. And if you are using it with the ribbon cable and a Matek FC, you can't turn it 90 degrees like you might otherwise. So I had to put it on very tall standoffs - which shouldn't be a problem as you probably won't use a 3-high stack with this VTX, but just something to watch out for.
thair is a bug on the matek vtx were the button is pressed and the light go out they make a update to fix this problem could you make a video step by step on how to update firmwear to the matex vtx hub pls
My wife has OCD too. Everything on the shelf has the label facing you. She will even straighten things that are wrong in the grocery store. This is just an example. LOL Thanks for your videos.
Hey josh.. i had a signal wire from one of my esc's rip off the FC with the solder pad.. is there anywhere else i can solder 2 ? Was a purple wire.. wired on to s3.. theres a pad right next to it which im wondering about
“There’s a happy little solder joint” “Soft serial wasn’t invented by TBS, anyone who says otherwise is trying to sell you something” (paraphrasing) not sure if you are FPVs Bob Ross or John Oliver. But you’re the man. Keep it up!
Hi josh. Got this setup. And all works great. Using runcam swift 2. But want audio so i can use my earbud. But cant figure out where to solder audio wire from camera to the board. Please help
Audio input is on the bottom of the board. See this photo: www.rcdepothobbies.com/v/vspfiles/photos/FCHUB-VTX-3.jpg Look at the AUD pin just to the right of the RF module cover.
Hey Josh, thanks for the video. Have been looking at either the Matek F405 AIO or this combo. I'm seeing that the AIO is hit and miss in terms of gyro noise and yaw twitches. One question, what do you think would be the best way to mount a Runcam Split in a stack with the F405 and FCHUB VTX? Soft mounts on either side of the FC, so the Split is also soft mounted?
Once you have the soft mount standoffs installed, I don't think there is a benefit to adding more. You don't want the heavy camera wire pulling on the FC stack and transmitting vibration. I guess what I would do is, Split on bottom, then FCHUB, then soft-mounted FC.
Awesome video. I Purchased the Matek F722 and the FCHUB6-s. Should all be the same. It’s expected to arrive any day now. Any advise to minimize solder splatter to critical spots? Lower heat maybe? I’m using a Taranis QX7 transmitter. I’m not into racing, so what do you suggest for a receiver? I have a X8R. Sbus, Smartport? That is all new to me. I’m coming from the Arduino world.
My Matek F722 STD, FCHUB6-S came in today. All soldered in. NO SMOKE! Dumb question, Can I connect the USB when the battery is plugged in? Scared of frying my board as soon as I get it. BTW; I grill all my steak, have never seared them. Pointless!
I do the the same thing at times with using same colored wire to use it up. ... BUT ... When I do use the same color wire like that I just put a piece of colored electrical tape or heat shrink at both ends to identify the color it is meant to be. If not I get confused. Especially if I put the wire in sleeving.
Hi Joshua, thanks for the video! I have the F405 and FCHUB in my cart at pirofliprc using your link. I'm looking for a 4 in 1 ESC to add to this combo. Any recommendations? I'm putting this on a 210mm stretch frame with thin arms. Probably going to use hyperlite 2307-2522kv motors or something similar unless you can suggest something in the motor department also. Looking forward to the next vid in this series!
Hi, do you think that the 5V/1A output is enough to power a runcam split V1? (Given the fact that The FCHUB-VTX needs to power its own VTX, the receiver (Frsky XSR) and the F405 Flight controller too) 1A seems a little short for all of this. Thanks!
Hi Joshua,Firstly, thanks for all the great vids and content. I have a question about the Matek F405. Have you had any issues with yaw twitching. I have a Matek F405 board, with Spedix BL Heli32 ESCs and Cobra 2207 2450kv motors and I am having issues with yaw twitch when throttling up. This is still a brand new build and I haven't yet fitted the 220uf, 35v capacitors supplied with the board. Matek supplied 4 of these, presumeably for each of the ESCs. I have heard that the Gyro on these boards is very sensitive to noise from ESCs/motors and this can cause yaw twitch. In your opinion is this likely to be correct?Thanks again and keep the good vids coming.Gary
Well, as you Americans would say " YeeeeHa". Fitted the capacitors and no more yaw twitch. Didn't really want to fit them because of aesthetics, but they're not too bad. Thanks for the input Joshua :)
Did you have to update the firmware on the VTX board to get the Tramp comms working ? Whenever I enable the peripheral device to Tramp on softserial the whole soft serial config gets wiped on reboot. Firmware update it not going well either. Nevermind, Tramp should be on uart5.
I wired smart port to motor 5 and used soft serial and seems to be working fine. Do you think the baud rate is too fast for soft serial? Matek showed it could be done online. Just thought I'd ask
Check the Current Source in the Power And Battery tab? Umm.... I think it should be ESC Sensor. To configure ESC telemetry, do the following: 1. In the Betaflight Ports tab, in the Sensor Input column, enable "ESC" sensor input for the UART that ESC Telemetry is connected to. (This may be enabled by default on the Matek FC.) 2. In the Configuration tab, in the Other Features section, enable ESC_Sensor. 3. Be using Dshot. ESC Telemetry doesn't work without Dshot. 4. In the Power And Battery tab, set the Current Meter Source to ESC Sensor.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks Joshua! i tried to put the esc sensors into the ports tab put it did not work, after this i saw that the ma/v of the onboard adc was to low so i raised it and now i get a proper mah drawn. thanks for the help as always!
You can use an external OpenLog device and a serial UART. But the problem is the UART data rate is slow and you can't log at a very fast rate, so much data is lost.
Yes you can do audio and vTX remote control because this vTX uses Tramp Telemetry protocol which uses a separate line from the audio line. There is an audio/mic input on the PDB/vTX where your mic will get connected.
I always got to thank you for your videos. I really like Matek products Talking about R-XSR, did you notice the antennas were as bad calibrated as the XSR? could you please tell me how to know if they are "new generation" ones (with non-inverted?). I bought them from GetFPV recently.
Joshua Bardwell I just installed it. By opposite to the XSR, the antennas are IPEX fixed, so I changed then to well calibrated ones. But it seemed to me it was good but not better than the original ones
I don't think that is correct. I believe the Matek F405 is powered either through vBat to the main battery pads, OR through 5v direct input from the PDB ribbon connector or equivalent solder pad. I think that the VCC pad is intended to power an accessory device like a vTX when the board is powered from vBat. I don't think that the VCC pad will have any voltage on it when the board is powered from 5v.
very infomative video thanks :D also, I have an unrelated question for flysky users, is it normal to only get around 100m range running a FS-i6 and X6B? stock antennas on both btw
100m range is low. You can easily get over 1km with line-of-sight. Ensure your antennas are coming out of your quad like a "V" with ideally 90 degree angle between. Ensure they avoid the props - they get real hungry for nice chewy bits of antenna.
Joshua Bardwell I think I've nackered the board, it's my first build. I've ordered another fchub pdb. I was having great difficulty soldering the ESC power cables to the board, the solder wasn't melting quick enough and went it did it just smeared and looked a mess
Great Video, you are the Bob Ross of or Generation ;) Just saw this Vid in the Evening, it´s completely satisfying and calming down to see, how you are soldering...
Joshua i don't recommend soldering the esc's signal and gnd to the PDB but on to the f405 flight controller it self because the gnd is filter's to the flightcontroller and all the electronic noise on the pdb gives more noise to the esc's;) the matek f405 has nice layout for the esc's to eights sides off the board
Theoretically you are correct, but I haven't noticed any negative effects from connecting signal and ground to PDB. Connecting directly to the FC might be slightly better but makes the build messier and harder to work on (have to desolder more connections to remove FC).
ok all those tips are nice and stuff, but the REAL question is, can you cook your steak with a soldering iron at 750 degrees and sear it enough to taste good? maybe marinate it in flux? inquiring minds need to KNOW!! :P
If the FC has a dedicated "telemetry" or "smartport" pad then it will work without any modification. If you are using a regular UART pad, then you need to uninvert the smartport signal.
Joshua Bardwell, this set up is awesome, & would be super clean with an ESC 4in1 three layer stack with a micro receiver.. only problem, if any, I have with these components is the weight; basically an extra 10-15 g versus my standard setup (excluding RX)-an ESC 4in1/PDB, a tramp, runcam Micro, and any regular FC (about 30g). Of course if you're using a super lightweight frame, this extra weight is an non-issue
For electrical isolation. But kapton you can see through so you can still see the LEDs, while electrical tape you can't. I could use clear heat shrink but I don't have any.
Do you have a video about tpa and tpa breakpoint because I'm having issue with full punch out. It shake retarded. Plus, i dont understand how it work. Do I need blackbox to see where it start to shake or it's about feeling it?
th-cam.com/video/pthPcX7svWQ/w-d-xo.html If you have BFOSD put throttle position in your OSD and then just look and listen for when it starts to oscillate.
OK: I've heard you make a sensible comment on those magnetic knife rails for keeping tools (don't use 'm for knives unless they're covered) and now on searing a steak, spot on... So please do yourself a favour and get your head around the metric system.... Oh, and thanks for all the bloody content you put out btw;) !!!!
So i know you mention that it's a bad idea to use the same color wire (for obvious reasons of course), but I can't help myself. I much prefer how it looks when it's all one color instead of a color explosion.
One thing I learnt in the RAAF regarding soldering, the melting of the solder should not be more than a few seconds. If you have a large pad you need a large solder tip. When you add the solder the melting point of solder should suffice. However, one thing to be aware of is the ease at which the pad can lift off from the board. Thus, it is imperative to ensure the soldering iron tip quickly heats up the pad. My training was to NASA standards. ;)
Ryan Harney I have left out the other details like the amount of solder, the specific curve of the solder on a pin and a tinned multi wire cable,, the technique of tinning, and retain the twist of the multi core wire, the correct cutters, the cleaning, the minimum radius particular wires should adhere to, The type of soldering iron tip and the angle of the tip and the cleaning of the tip. It was a full time 1 week course ;)
Since most of my frames have very thin arms I can't fit the esc's on the quad. After watching your review I went out and purchased 4 of these and now I don't see how to connect my 4in1 to the board. Any suggestions/videos showing this process?
Pick up some LocTite "Fun-Tak" mounting putty and stick your components to your work surface when soldering. Keeps em from floating around and requires no cleanup.
Yep big fan of it myself. It is way better than the extra hand/alagator clip, in so many ways. Also use a piece here and the to hold things in place, ie under esc, wires and antenna leads etc...
Hey Joshua , you really need a fume extractor ! inhaling all these bad solder smoke is not that healthy as you know already :) just a reminder, happy soldering ;)
Careful i was runing P.I.D loop and gyro at 8k and FC pulls 1.5 amps PDB's 5v only rated at 1amp my PDB lasted 2 flight after switching to 8k and and 5v burnt out.
Joshua Bardwell well i got a new fuhub vtx and with the same settings on the flight controller plug the battery in current sensor reads 1.5 amps I unplug the battery plugged into betaflight turned PID Loopto 4k now I only pull .5 amps why the change in amps then?
Jesus Christ. Thank you so much man. I've been trying for a hell of a long time trying to get the ribbon cable in. I was about ready to give up and just downgrade to an F3 board when I came across your video. Those retention pins really messed me up. At least everything works now and the Matek F4 board performs well. Thank you man.
I love the way this video feels like I'm hanging out in Josh's drone room, building a quad, talking about steaks, etc. Very well done, Josh, and yes... the mat MUST be straight! :)
Came for the build,stayed for the cooking tips. :)
I always appreciate the soldering tutorials especially with commentary- feels like we are just hanging out at the bench LOL
Joshua, your videos are just great, informative, clear and as a result so helpful for the FPV community. Well done and thank you for having invested so much time in recording and processing your vids.
Come for the quad talk, stay for the cooking advice. 😃 I'm very curious to see how the video looks - there could be noise introduced with the pdb and vtx all mixed together. Also, did you put a capacitor on this build?
I did not install the capacitor, although Matek provided one.
Looking forward to part 2. New to quads and fpv so I like to see these builds before attempting on my own. Thanks to your videos I'm off to a good start and I'm not burning electronics up anymore. Keep them coming!
+Joshua Bardwell Matek offer instructions to use Soft Serial for Smart Port telemetry on their website as well as the un-inverted pin hack. Less fiddly soLdering- love these FCs they have all the pads you need. S5 and S6 - Camera OSD and Smart Port.
You are correct. I enabled softserial on pad S5 (I have a XSR-M) by following the instructions on the Matek website to do the necessary changes via CLI in Betaflight.
Instructions: Type “resource motor 5 none” in CLI, press ENTER. Type “resource serial_tx 11 A15” in CLI, press ENTER. Type “Save”, press ENTER. Done.
I have a question that, I can't seem to find very much information on. It has to do with setting up camera_control and the modes for CC on BF tab.
I am very intrested in setting this up, as I would like to be able to access my camera settings menu with my remote and goggles. I have the matek f405 and found some info on the DAC pad and tried to make it work but could not.
1.) I enabled camera_control_mode = DAC
2.) Set resource CC to A04
3.) Left all CC to default.
4.) Set a switch to CC in modes tab, but it never activated.
5.) Tried to yaw right, to no avail.
I will try using the signal pin 5 tomorrow with a resistor, as seen in a few videos, however would like your input on the subject.
Thanks for all you videos.
Those ribbon connectors were giving you a hard time. Also if you melt a big of solder on the tip of the soldering iron it really gets heat across a lot faster even at lot temperature. Thumbs up!
Joshua you are just like AB to quads. I’m shocked I didn’t see that sooner.
Hey Joshua great video would you know if those little plastic slide in sections for the ribbon cable connection are available I accidentally broke one of mine
I don't think they are replaceable without significant solder skills.
Hey +Joshua, i'm new to multicopter building/flying and really enjoy all the information you provide on your blog and youtube. Thanks for that! One thing in this video confuses me. You say if you don't have a GND solder pad for the esc-sgn-gnd just solder it to the power-gnd or if the ESCs are free desolder the gnd-wire. Actually on my ESC (DJI 30A Opto) the sgn-gnd and the power-gnd are already shorted, so does it make sense to have the extra gnd-wire? I read alot about this and all I understood was that I should solder the sgn-gnd because of different 16V(4S)gnd-level on power-gnd and 5V-sgn-gnd.
I found a drawback I didn't expect with the FCHUB-VTX. I went to put one in a SabotageRC Dingo and if you use the 6mm standoff that comes with it, the tabs for the XT60 wires actually touch the frame. And if you are using it with the ribbon cable and a Matek FC, you can't turn it 90 degrees like you might otherwise. So I had to put it on very tall standoffs - which shouldn't be a problem as you probably won't use a 3-high stack with this VTX, but just something to watch out for.
thair is a bug on the matek vtx were the button is pressed and the light go out they make a update to fix this problem could you make a video step by step on how to update firmwear to the matex vtx hub pls
Perfect timing Joshua :) Have had the fchub-pdb and f405 for "ages", and been sooo looking forward to this :)
I can't seem to find part 2 for this video. Can someone help? Thanks
Great vid c/w and bedtime story....... just purchased one of these PDB/VTx to go with my Matek F405........these boards are awesome
My wife has OCD too. Everything on the shelf has the label facing you. She will even straighten things that are wrong in the grocery store. This is just an example. LOL Thanks for your videos.
Hey josh.. i had a signal wire from one of my esc's rip off the FC with the solder pad.. is there anywhere else i can solder 2 ? Was a purple wire.. wired on to s3.. theres a pad right next to it which im wondering about
“There’s a happy little solder joint” “Soft serial wasn’t invented by TBS, anyone who says otherwise is trying to sell you something” (paraphrasing) not sure if you are FPVs Bob Ross or John Oliver. But you’re the man. Keep it up!
Good attention to detail Josh. Appreciated.
A black sharpie could used to mark the red (negative) wire so as to avoid any unnecessary "rolling of the dice" but just a thought. :)
Hi josh. Got this setup. And all works great. Using runcam swift 2. But want audio so i can use my earbud. But cant figure out where to solder audio wire from camera to the board. Please help
Audio input is on the bottom of the board. See this photo:
www.rcdepothobbies.com/v/vspfiles/photos/FCHUB-VTX-3.jpg
Look at the AUD pin just to the right of the RF module cover.
Ibcrazy recommended using a 90 degree for the antenna that takes stress off the connector and if it breaks it leaves a load on the antenna
Is it ok not to solder ESC signal ground ?
Where can I buy this flux pen?
Hey Josh, thanks for the video. Have been looking at either the Matek F405 AIO or this combo. I'm seeing that the AIO is hit and miss in terms of gyro noise and yaw twitches. One question, what do you think would be the best way to mount a Runcam Split in a stack with the F405 and FCHUB VTX? Soft mounts on either side of the FC, so the Split is also soft mounted?
Once you have the soft mount standoffs installed, I don't think there is a benefit to adding more. You don't want the heavy camera wire pulling on the FC stack and transmitting vibration. I guess what I would do is, Split on bottom, then FCHUB, then soft-mounted FC.
Thanks, that’s the logical thing to do in terms of mounting. Have you had an experience with the Matek F405 AIO?
Awesome video. I Purchased the Matek F722 and the FCHUB6-s. Should all be the same. It’s expected to arrive any day now. Any advise to minimize solder splatter to critical spots? Lower heat maybe? I’m using a Taranis QX7 transmitter. I’m not into racing, so what do you suggest for a receiver? I have a X8R. Sbus, Smartport? That is all new to me. I’m coming from the Arduino world.
For a receiver, the XM+ or RXSR are good but you have to update the firmware on the RXSR before you install it in the quad.
My Matek F722 STD, FCHUB6-S came in today. All soldered in. NO SMOKE! Dumb question, Can I connect the USB when the battery is plugged in? Scared of frying my board as soon as I get it. BTW; I grill all my steak, have never seared them. Pointless!
did you post the config video for this build series?
+Jon Car there's not really anything specific about the config. Check out the Betaflight 3.2 Ultimate Setup Guide video I made.
I do the the same thing at times with using same colored wire to use it up. ... BUT ... When I do use the same color wire like that I just put a piece of colored electrical tape or heat shrink at both ends to identify the color it is meant to be. If not I get confused. Especially if I put the wire in sleeving.
Hi Joshua, thanks for the video! I have the F405 and FCHUB in my cart at pirofliprc using your link. I'm looking for a 4 in 1 ESC to add to this combo. Any recommendations? I'm putting this on a 210mm stretch frame with thin arms. Probably going to use hyperlite 2307-2522kv motors or something similar unless you can suggest something in the motor department also. Looking forward to the next vid in this series!
pirofliprc.com/Spedix-IS30-4-in-1-2-4S-LiPo-DShot600-BLHeliS-30A-ESC_p_3953.html
But don't use the 12v output it's junk.
Hi, do you think that the 5V/1A output is enough to power a runcam split V1? (Given the fact that The FCHUB-VTX needs to power its own VTX, the receiver (Frsky XSR) and the F405 Flight controller too) 1A seems a little short for all of this. Thanks!
+Francis Verville no I don't think so. Split pulls like 600 mA.
Hi Joshua,Firstly, thanks for all the great vids and content. I have a question about the Matek F405. Have you had any issues with yaw twitching. I have a Matek F405 board, with Spedix BL Heli32 ESCs and Cobra 2207 2450kv motors and I am having issues with yaw twitch when throttling up. This is still a brand new build and I haven't yet fitted the 220uf, 35v capacitors supplied with the board. Matek supplied 4 of these, presumeably for each of the ESCs. I have heard that the Gyro on these boards is very sensitive to noise from ESCs/motors and this can cause yaw twitch. In your opinion is this likely to be correct?Thanks again and keep the good vids coming.Gary
Put the dang capacitors on for goodness sake that is why they sent them.
Well, as you Americans would say " YeeeeHa". Fitted the capacitors and no more yaw twitch. Didn't really want to fit them because of aesthetics, but they're not too bad. Thanks for the input Joshua :)
Did you have to update the firmware on the VTX board to get the Tramp comms working ? Whenever I enable the peripheral device to Tramp on softserial the whole soft serial config gets wiped on reboot. Firmware update it not going well either. Nevermind, Tramp should be on uart5.
Nope. it worked out of the box.
I wired smart port to motor 5 and used soft serial and seems to be working fine. Do you think the baud rate is too fast for soft serial? Matek showed it could be done online. Just thought I'd ask
No it can be done.
as always your the best sir thank you!! still waiting for part 2 of this video excited for it :)
Hi Joshua i have these board combo but the mah drawn in my osd is not working what could be the cause of this?
Check the Current Source in the Power And Battery tab? Umm.... I think it should be ESC Sensor.
To configure ESC telemetry, do the following:
1. In the Betaflight Ports tab, in the Sensor Input column, enable "ESC" sensor input for the UART that ESC Telemetry is connected to. (This may be enabled by default on the Matek FC.)
2. In the Configuration tab, in the Other Features section, enable ESC_Sensor.
3. Be using Dshot. ESC Telemetry doesn't work without Dshot.
4. In the Power And Battery tab, set the Current Meter Source to ESC Sensor.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thanks Joshua! i tried to put the esc sensors into the ports tab put it did not work, after this i saw that the ma/v of the onboard adc was to low so i raised it and now i get a proper mah drawn. thanks for the help as always!
Is there a way to add blackbox capability on a board that has no storage nor an SD card slot? (Racerstar F3s)
You can use an external OpenLog device and a serial UART. But the problem is the UART data rate is slow and you can't log at a very fast rate, so much data is lost.
Where do I connect the microphone from my camera to this setup? Can I have audio transmission and smart Port audio control at the same time?
Yes you can do audio and vTX remote control because this vTX uses Tramp Telemetry protocol which uses a separate line from the audio line. There is an audio/mic input on the PDB/vTX where your mic will get connected.
Joshua Bardwell is that the pad marked TLM right next to the video input?
What am I gonna learn today!? 700f is 370 Celsius :-)
xxxenricop maybe you learned something today,
700f is 371.111111111 C
yep yep he was off by one
Do you have a link for your soldering iron?
amzn.to/2uAuPm7
My SBus was not giving me any movement after binding so I used rx4
Joshua, I'm building the same quad with these FC and VTC/PDB boards, I'm ready for the next installment.
Here was the next one.
If I may jump on the back of this...I'm in the same position as Doug here but am unsure what you meant by this? :/ Thanks for any info you could give.
I always got to thank you for your videos. I really like Matek products
Talking about R-XSR, did you notice the antennas were as bad calibrated as the XSR? could you please tell me how to know if they are "new generation" ones (with non-inverted?). I bought them from GetFPV recently.
I am going to be doing some antenna testing to see if the effect is as bad as people say.
Joshua Bardwell I just installed it. By opposite to the XSR, the antennas are IPEX fixed, so I changed then to well calibrated ones. But it seemed to me it was good but not better than the original ones
I was trying to decide if I wanted to use this setup and I thank you for the review. I believe this will go on my Astro X build I have to do.
Do I wire the Vbat (on the VTX/PDB) to VCC (on the flight controller)?
I don't think that is correct. I believe the Matek F405 is powered either through vBat to the main battery pads, OR through 5v direct input from the PDB ribbon connector or equivalent solder pad.
I think that the VCC pad is intended to power an accessory device like a vTX when the board is powered from vBat. I don't think that the VCC pad will have any voltage on it when the board is powered from 5v.
very infomative video thanks :D
also, I have an unrelated question for flysky users, is it normal to only get around 100m range running a FS-i6 and X6B? stock antennas on both btw
That's not normal range.
How’s your antenna arrangement look like?
Clayton Bigsby one is vertical and the other is horizontal, I am in a place with very little interference
100m range is low. You can easily get over 1km with line-of-sight.
Ensure your antennas are coming out of your quad like a "V" with ideally 90 degree angle between. Ensure they avoid the props - they get real hungry for nice chewy bits of antenna.
If one of the pads comes off where your soldering to is the board then broken or will it still work?
It's broken. Sometimes you can find an alternative pin but if not it's dead.
Joshua Bardwell I think I've nackered the board, it's my first build. I've ordered another fchub pdb. I was having great difficulty soldering the ESC power cables to the board, the solder wasn't melting quick enough and went it did it just smeared and looked a mess
Great video as usual , but I sure wish you would do one on the new bff4 all in one.
JB. The vtx 5v bec is rated at 1a, will that be a problem to power up fc, rx, cam, & gps??
I think it should be okay, as long as you don't try to power the vTX also.
Joshua Bardwell The vtx is part of the pdb so i assume it doesnt take power from the 5v bec. Thanks JB
Hey i wanted to get an r-xsr but i heard that lua scripts wouldnt work on that for some reason!? Do they work with yours?
You have to update to the latest firmware. I don't know whether they've started shipping with it yet but my guess is no.
so if i get a r-xsr reciever it doesnt need the uninverter hack to get smart port?
It has the uninverted pad broken out for you.
Why not use softserial for smartport? There's a very good manual available on the Matek Website.
Yeah this is a fine approach.
Great Video, you are the Bob Ross of or Generation ;)
Just saw this Vid in the Evening, it´s completely satisfying and calming down to see, how you are soldering...
Glad you liked it.
Joshua i don't recommend soldering the esc's signal and gnd to the PDB but on to the f405 flight controller it self because the gnd is filter's to the flightcontroller and all the electronic noise on the pdb gives more noise to the esc's;) the matek f405 has nice layout for the esc's to eights sides off the board
That's an interesting point.
Took a better look at the board layout and it does have signal and ground for all four esc’s.
Theoretically you are correct, but I haven't noticed any negative effects from connecting signal and ground to PDB. Connecting directly to the FC might be slightly better but makes the build messier and harder to work on (have to desolder more connections to remove FC).
ok all those tips are nice and stuff, but the REAL question is, can you cook your steak with a soldering iron at 750 degrees and sear it enough to taste good? maybe marinate it in flux? inquiring minds need to KNOW!! :P
th-cam.com/video/lcGDa9KpjMw/w-d-xo.html
if your board osd is not reading the same rssi value as your taranis doest the smart port on xsr has to be uninverted on my lum aio f4 fc?
If the FC has a dedicated "telemetry" or "smartport" pad then it will work without any modification. If you are using a regular UART pad, then you need to uninvert the smartport signal.
ok thanks
Why is the Betaflight FC so difficult to solder?
Heavy ground plane means it soaks heat away from the iron.
do I hold solder iron longer on the copper or do I put up the heat of the iron? (doing 350°C now)
how much does the fc and pdb/vtx weight all together?
20 grams
Joshua Bardwell, this set up is awesome, & would be super clean with an ESC 4in1 three layer stack with a micro receiver..
only problem, if any, I have with these components is the weight; basically an extra 10-15 g versus my standard setup (excluding RX)-an ESC 4in1/PDB, a tramp, runcam Micro, and any regular FC (about 30g). Of course if you're using a super lightweight frame, this extra weight is an non-issue
Why did you wrap your previous vtx in kapton tape?
1:40
For electrical isolation. But kapton you can see through so you can still see the LEDs, while electrical tape you can't. I could use clear heat shrink but I don't have any.
oh, okay :D
yep I bought those tweezers from your site link. good buy!
Josh the master chef lol love all the info bro I have these ordered for an x220 build
Do you have a video about tpa and tpa breakpoint because I'm having issue with full punch out. It shake retarded. Plus, i dont understand how it work. Do I need blackbox to see where it start to shake or it's about feeling it?
th-cam.com/video/pthPcX7svWQ/w-d-xo.html
If you have BFOSD put throttle position in your OSD and then just look and listen for when it starts to oscillate.
OK: I've heard you make a sensible comment on those magnetic knife rails for keeping tools (don't use 'm for knives unless they're covered) and now on searing a steak, spot on... So please do yourself a favour and get your head around the metric system.... Oh, and thanks for all the bloody content you put out btw;) !!!!
What desk mat is that?
amzn.to/2h3yzog
Does anyone else get that happy feeling soldering anything? Lol
Heck yeah it's therapeutic.
Watching someone else soldering is also satisfying.
There’s no barometer right? this is not the board for an inav build
So i know you mention that it's a bad idea to use the same color wire (for obvious reasons of course), but I can't help myself. I much prefer how it looks when it's all one color instead of a color explosion.
Good job as usual
i have the OSD Problem with my BFF7 too. Not cool :/
One thing I learnt in the RAAF regarding soldering, the melting of the solder should not be more than a few seconds. If you have a large pad you need a large solder tip. When you add the solder the melting point of solder should suffice. However, one thing to be aware of is the ease at which the pad can lift off from the board. Thus, it is imperative to ensure the soldering iron tip quickly heats up the pad. My training was to NASA standards. ;)
sounds standard
Ryan Harney I have left out the other details like the amount of solder, the specific curve of the solder on a pin and a tinned multi wire cable,, the technique of tinning, and retain the twist of the multi core wire, the correct cutters, the cleaning, the minimum radius particular wires should adhere to, The type of soldering iron tip and the angle of the tip and the cleaning of the tip. It was a full time 1 week course ;)
Pateintly waiting on Part 2. :)
Every time you take your glasses of, you remind me of Donald Pleasence in The Great Escape,
when he cannot see the counterfeiting he has done.
You could just use a continuity check from the ribbon to the pads to confirm the up/down issue without power.
.... and I now see you did a lot of that in your troubleshooting video. :)
can you use a 4in1 esc?
You can but it wouldn't be ideal.
Since most of my frames have very thin arms I can't fit the esc's on the quad. After watching your review I went out and purchased 4 of these and now I don't see how to connect my 4in1 to the board. Any suggestions/videos showing this process?
I'd watch your cooking show! You could even do a collab... AB and JB, Fly n Fry.
Pick up some LocTite "Fun-Tak" mounting putty and stick your components to your work surface when soldering. Keeps em from floating around and requires no cleanup.
Yep big fan of it myself. It is way better than the extra hand/alagator clip, in so many ways. Also use a piece here and the to hold things in place, ie under esc, wires and antenna leads etc...
O vtx vem com dois canais bloqueado 5645 e o 5945, alguém sabe como desbloquear?
All about drones AND steaks! Nice! :)
This felt like some Bob Ross' Joy of Painting, but building a quad.
Well played !
This vídeo is Juice!
How to ibus this thing?
Best reguards from Brazil JB.
Ibus signal wire goes to any UART RX pad.
Joshua Bardwell tks, i visit matek website, and there is Everything like you told in the video! Thanks!
Mmmmm... gotta get some of those tweezers! Thanks for the heads up
amzn.to/2eWxhxM
With bf3.3 and Kalman Filters coming, matek f7 (which supposedly cant run 32k/32k) or f405
Betaflight is not optimized to run on F7 right now. It runs slower than on F4. If you want to do 32k right now, F4 is where to be.
Neat solder work
Just put a short piece of black heat shrink on it. I think that works.
Nice T-Shirt!
I have the same tweezers. I love them!!!
Randall Smith whats the nane on the tweezers? i need to buy some for my builds
Hey Joshua , you really need a fume extractor ! inhaling all these bad solder smoke is not that healthy as you know already :) just a reminder, happy soldering ;)
I'm not breathing them. I always breath out or hold my breath while soldering.
AB of FPV!!! its perfect
I use the fan of a deceased computer power supply to suck away the smoke when I'm soldering. It's a huge difference ;)
Love these vids.
Maybe it was the softmounts that led to the osd's demise
Steak! I ll cook right now :)
Steak isn't a heat conductor Joshua! :-)
The next time I sear an ESC, I'll remember it :D
Careful i was runing P.I.D loop and gyro at 8k and FC pulls 1.5 amps PDB's 5v only rated at 1amp my PDB lasted 2 flight after switching to 8k and and 5v burnt out.
It has nothing to do with your PID loop rate. If you pull 1.5 amps from a 1 amp regulator, you'll kill it.
Joshua Bardwell well i got a new fuhub vtx and with the same settings on the flight controller plug the battery in current sensor reads 1.5 amps I unplug the battery plugged into betaflight turned PID Loopto 4k now I only pull .5 amps why the change in amps then?
Just add some black heat shrink and you're good to go.
wrap that red wire in black electrical tape Josh! :D
joshua: put ur soldering iron at 700 degrees
me: :O that will melt the bloody soldering iron
joshua: Fahrenheit of corse..