Hi Liam. I’ve designed and built many vacuum engines over the years. May I suggest removing the front cover and with a “ loose “ flame ensure that all the open port is covered by it. Even the smallest gap within the flame curtain will stop them from running. The principal is very simple and pre heating only reduces the vacuum effect, they work best from cold. I use WD40 on the cylinder and only in small amounts. Don’t spray it on with the flame ignited….😉 Please check out my range of CHUK engines all 4 variants are flame gulpers. Cheers Graham.
Hi Graham, Envious of your engine design and building skills, hopefully a few of the range join the collection in the next few years. I certainly think you may be onto something with your mention of the "flame curtain". I very much doubt the small built in burner provides a flame which completely covers the port. I will try with a stand alone burner for the next video hopefully with better results. WD40 was my first thought. Currently it smells like 3in1 so will definitely Benefit from a strip and clean. Love the CHUK engines. "Nattie" being my personal favorite. All advice noted and will be trialed in the next video 😁👍
I would try cold water in the hopper. It works by cooling the hot flame to cold to create a vacuum. As well as being called a flame eater (Or in Dutch Vlam Happer) it is also called a vacuum engine.
Thanks Ben, Cold water was my initial thought also, kind of obvious when you think about it really 🤦. I got the idea of the warm water after seeing it suggested in a video somewhere else. Not that I've been able to find it since. I think the first port of call is going to be tackle the size of the flame. Although I can't see how the small built in burner can produce a flame large enough so it may well be a case of making a new stand alone burner.
@@rustyrelics The trick isn't the size of the flame but making sure it gets sucked into the port. Not sure a big one helps. Have you tried cold or iced water yet?
From what I can gather, I think the trick is to ensure the flame completely covers the port, otherwise it will draw in fresh air along with the flame which obviously means a reduced vacuum once it cools, so the flame needs to be at least big enough to cover the port face but obviously nor a roaring inferno🤣. Not tried that yet, maybe something to bare in mind.... 😁
Yes, the other way it creates compression instead of a vacuum and extinguishes the flame as the valve opens so definitely spinning the correct way. As you say, they need to be super clean which I think may be half the problem. Along with needing a larger flame. Update coming soon 😁
I made one but it drove me crazy trying to get it to run and i never did get it to go. I ad libbed it so now ive just started to make one to drawings ive found on the net. Im wondering if it will make a difference if i make the cylinder out of steel rather than the brass specified.
You need cold water in the water hopper to cool the air and create a vacuum. The more rapid you cool the air, the greater the negative pressure created in the form of a vacuum, the more power is created at the the piston. Also I am not sure your flame is big enough for the size of the engine. My knowledge it rather little. what I do know was picked up off the late Dennis Pittock and the late Brian Williamson. I wish I had paid more attention now. The first Crosley petrol engines worked by vacuum to move the piston, they didn't have a crank, but worked on a ratchet gear. they fuel was ignited in the cylinder which dropped it out cog, and when it cooled, the piston was drawn up re engaging the rack. The Newcombe steam pumping engines were also known as a atmospheric engine, the steam was not pressurised, the steam was drawn into the cylinder by a weight on the end of the beam where the pump was attached. The steam was shut off just before the end of the stroke and cold water allowed into cylinder to cool the steam and turn it into a vacuum, which then sucked the piston back in and drew the pump up from the well/mine. Its all much the same idea, a hot gas (in the case of the flame eater - the air itself is heated) cooled down to create a vacuum. Its a very bad idea, but if you cool your mamod down by running cold water over the boiler after the steam has gone. i will run in reverse due to the vacuum created inside the boiler.
Thanks James, My initial thoughts were cold water, kind of obvious when you think about it right?, but somewhere I had seen a video suggesting warm water and anything was worth a try at that point haha. Having spoken to Graham about the "Flame Curtain", as you say, I'm sure the size of the flame is part of the issue so I shall have to come up with a plan to tackle that for the next video. Yes I'm familiar with the first Crossley's, having watched the one at the Anson museum numerous times. Such a big lump for so little power. Not sure I fancy trying that with a poor Mamod, but maybe one day...🤣
@@James_Rivett There are a few about, some quite a bit larger, but the majority seem to live down in the west country for whatever reason. Lovley things to fall asleep behind 😴🤣
Different type of engine entirely with a Vacuum engine @peterjohntyers7924 . This is fired on meths currently. Maybe I should do a video explaining the differences 😁
Hi Liam. I’ve designed and built many vacuum engines over the years. May I suggest removing the front cover and with a “ loose “ flame ensure that all the open port is covered by it. Even the smallest gap within the flame curtain will stop them from running. The principal is very simple and pre heating only reduces the vacuum effect, they work best from cold. I use WD40 on the cylinder and only in small amounts. Don’t spray it on with the flame ignited….😉 Please check out my range of CHUK engines all 4 variants are flame gulpers. Cheers Graham.
Hi Graham,
Envious of your engine design and building skills, hopefully a few of the range join the collection in the next few years.
I certainly think you may be onto something with your mention of the "flame curtain". I very much doubt the small built in burner provides a flame which completely covers the port. I will try with a stand alone burner for the next video hopefully with better results.
WD40 was my first thought. Currently it smells like 3in1 so will definitely Benefit from a strip and clean.
Love the CHUK engines. "Nattie" being my personal favorite.
All advice noted and will be trialed in the next video 😁👍
I would try cold water in the hopper. It works by cooling the hot flame to cold to create a vacuum. As well as being called a flame eater (Or in Dutch Vlam Happer) it is also called a vacuum engine.
Thanks Ben,
Cold water was my initial thought also, kind of obvious when you think about it really 🤦. I got the idea of the warm water after seeing it suggested in a video somewhere else. Not that I've been able to find it since.
I think the first port of call is going to be tackle the size of the flame. Although I can't see how the small built in burner can produce a flame large enough so it may well be a case of making a new stand alone burner.
@@rustyrelics The trick isn't the size of the flame but making sure it gets sucked into the port. Not sure a big one helps. Have you tried cold or iced water yet?
From what I can gather, I think the trick is to ensure the flame completely covers the port, otherwise it will draw in fresh air along with the flame which obviously means a reduced vacuum once it cools, so the flame needs to be at least big enough to cover the port face but obviously nor a roaring inferno🤣.
Not tried that yet, maybe something to bare in mind.... 😁
@@rustyrelics Yes, not so much hot a sufficiently large.
@@BensWorkshop Indeed, hopefully this week I'll get chance to test that theory 😁
have you tired spin the other way. All I heared about them is that they have to be super clean with very clean flame burning from ecotone or similar.
Yes, the other way it creates compression instead of a vacuum and extinguishes the flame as the valve opens so definitely spinning the correct way.
As you say, they need to be super clean which I think may be half the problem. Along with needing a larger flame.
Update coming soon 😁
I made one but it drove me crazy trying to get it to run and i never did get it to go. I ad libbed it so now ive just started to make one to drawings ive found on the net. Im wondering if it will make a difference if i make the cylinder out of steel rather than the brass specified.
You need cold water in the water hopper to cool the air and create a vacuum. The more rapid you cool the air, the greater the negative pressure created in the form of a vacuum, the more power is created at the the piston. Also I am not sure your flame is big enough for the size of the engine. My knowledge it rather little. what I do know was picked up off the late Dennis Pittock and the late Brian Williamson. I wish I had paid more attention now.
The first Crosley petrol engines worked by vacuum to move the piston, they didn't have a crank, but worked on a ratchet gear. they fuel was ignited in the cylinder which dropped it out cog, and when it cooled, the piston was drawn up re engaging the rack. The Newcombe steam pumping engines were also known as a atmospheric engine, the steam was not pressurised, the steam was drawn into the cylinder by a weight on the end of the beam where the pump was attached. The steam was shut off just before the end of the stroke and cold water allowed into cylinder to cool the steam and turn it into a vacuum, which then sucked the piston back in and drew the pump up from the well/mine. Its all much the same idea, a hot gas (in the case of the flame eater - the air itself is heated) cooled down to create a vacuum.
Its a very bad idea, but if you cool your mamod down by running cold water over the boiler after the steam has gone. i will run in reverse due to the vacuum created inside the boiler.
Thanks James,
My initial thoughts were cold water, kind of obvious when you think about it right?, but somewhere I had seen a video suggesting warm water and anything was worth a try at that point haha.
Having spoken to Graham about the "Flame Curtain", as you say, I'm sure the size of the flame is part of the issue so I shall have to come up with a plan to tackle that for the next video.
Yes I'm familiar with the first Crossley's, having watched the one at the Anson museum numerous times. Such a big lump for so little power.
Not sure I fancy trying that with a poor Mamod, but maybe one day...🤣
@@rustyrelics I remember Brian had a hot air engine about the size of a Lister D but was only a fraction of a horse power.
@@James_Rivett There are a few about, some quite a bit larger, but the majority seem to live down in the west country for whatever reason. Lovley things to fall asleep behind 😴🤣
What fuel are you using, if you remember I've gathered a half size John Deere and that ren best on Coleman fuel
Different type of engine entirely with a Vacuum engine @peterjohntyers7924 . This is fired on meths currently. Maybe I should do a video explaining the differences 😁
I've had 2 and nothing but trouble with them.. got one here now you can have... give me a Hot Air engine any day.
I've gotten that impression already haha, But dont like to be beat so im determined to get it running :). Whats the one you've got?
@@rustyrelics McGuckin
try putting water in the chamber over the piston
As you can see we did try that in the video, but sadly made no difference, however, exciting update coming soon 😁😁
I will get an expert on this for you, Liam..
Thanks Gary👍
i think your turning it backwards