And here’s another helpful video. After finding out how to put the spring back on my 500, I’m now finding how to set the two stops. You are the man, thanks Andy.
Good on you, Rhonda. You're making great progress. If you'd care to have copies of the Service Manual and Parts Diagram contact me at andysmanuals53@gmail.com. Mention any other Singer Models you have and include whatever documents I have for them also.
Andy, Thanks so much for this wonderful instructional video. I have the opposite trouble with my new to me 401A. The little floating finger keeps coming out of the follower. Now I will go to workbench and adjust that little spool like stop to get the required .010 to .012 inch clearance. May you continue to educate for another 100 years. TR
I can not tell you how helpful your videos have been. I found a freshly oiled, greased and cleaned 401A (missing the bottom cover plate) at Good will for next to nothing. It didn't work. Watched your videos, figured out they'd put the cam followers in backwards and the cam stack too high. Fixed those problems, couldn't get the front follower to work in all but very few positions, found your notes in this video on adjusting the stop and - perfection. Oh, my gosh, this machine is everything Singer once was (and then stopped being immediately after these machines. What harm a single greedy person can do to a major company!). Thank you!
I appreciate you saving that machine and getting it back in service. Somebody tried to but just didn't realize how those complicated parts go back together. I'm happy that you found my videos about the 401a congratulations on your newly found treasure and happy sewing!
Good morning, Andy! It’s amazing how you drop a video just before I need to perform the task you so capably demonstrate. I chuckled when you brought out the feeler gauges-I didn’t even know what those were until I saw you use them and now I own a set. My husband jokes to his friends that I never overspend on clothes, I’d rather buy feeler gauges. 😂
Wow! A woman who works on sewing machines AND owns her own feeler gauges! What a lucky fellow your husband is. Once you get the stops set you will be ready to "Zero-Out" the machine; my next video. I started scripting it today. Hope to see you next time and thanks for the great comment. Take Care.
There was more to that adjustment than I anticipated. But, as usual, the clarity and attention to details in your videos makes it seem doable. Looking forward to working on my 401 soon.
Yes, more than anticipated. That is the nature of a model like this and the 500A and some of the T & S models. The adjustments are very doable though. I've found some very cheaply priced 401A/500A machines b/c someone took a couple parts off and did not get them back on correctly. Once adjusted properly they worked just fine. I think you'll like working on a 401A, Terry. Most of the differences between it and your 403A are what I'm showing in this "Trouble" playlist. The other parts you have worked on will be the same, as the driving arm, vibrating bracket, hook, motor, bobbin winder, etc. Thanks for watching.
I enjoy your video and understood it because you went slow enough. I have a 600e and BL is the zigzag. I asked what the setting for zigzag on her 401 was, and she said BL. I would like to know why used D rather than BL
The setting of the knobs to BL on all the models you mention is for standard ZigZag sewing. The knobs are set to D & L not to sew but check/set the correct stops for the selector cam. The setting is for making adjustments, not for sewing. Using D L is shown in the directions for this adjustment in the SERVICE MANUAL for Model 401A on Page 139.
A great video Andy and very timely! I recently started to restore a 401A and find that I need to restore the front follower gap measurement. Are you using a set of gap measures that are specifically designed for Singer machines or a general set? I’m finding it difficult to locate one set that has the 3 gap measurements that you showed in your video.
Thank you. Besides the Instruction Manual, Singer made Service Manuals for each model that the repair people could use as a guide. The Service Manuals have all the adjustments, remove and replace instructions. You can find them online at sites like these; manualsoncd.com/ sewconsult.com/product-category/service-manuals/ You can find other sellers also, including on eBay where there are also CD and paper copies available. Many of these sellers have several brands available, not just Singer. Prices vary from about $8 for downloads to $20+ for printed copies. I find the Service Manual extremely helpful if I am not familiar with the model. For the Singer 401A class models (401A, 403A, 404) there happens to be a FREE copy available at this link; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf There are a handful of free Singer Service Manuals available online if you search diligently. For this 401A Cam Selector Shaft Stop the instructions are on page 139 of the free manual. I hope this is what you are looking for and is somewhat helpful. Thanks for asking, and for watching my channel.
Andy, I’m seeing when doing the zigzag on my 401A, the pendulum seems off. If you cover that anywhere, can you direct me to the video. When I’m sewing, it’s obvious that it’s off because of the way the fabric moves around and I can see it pulling at fabric. Thanks
If you are sure it is not the tension of the needle thread that is the problem but the needle bar swings before it is out of the fabric you can try to check a couple of things. 1. Is the Cam Stack timed properly? th-cam.com/video/aphiW06yp64/w-d-xo.html 2. "setting the bight amplitude stop plates" or Zero-Out has been set properly. th-cam.com/video/8dntXDEYfMU/w-d-xo.html
I just clicked on them both….I watched both of them, one yesterday and the other today. I remember you covering this issue somewhere but it may not have been on this model. But yeah, the needle is starting the zigzag too early.
@@rhondamercado7527 Yes, the pendulum adjustment was on a different type of machine. On your 401A the Needle Bar Driving Arm (NBDA( is what makes the Needle Bar swing. That is controlled by the Disc Followers over at the Cam Stack. I've never encountered the problem so I do not have a video, but if the NBDA is "off-center" of the Disc Selector Arm Bracket it can mess up the swinging motion and perhaps (?) the timing of the needle swing. The adjustment of it is on page 141 of your Model 401 Service Manual.
What is the name of those little measurement tools you used. I want to buy one. Also, my Rocketeer 500A the stitch selectors rotate easily but the stitch remains as a straight stitch. There is a little spring with a long metal hook inside my 500A it popped off and I don't know how to put it back on the machine. Thank you for your videos, I have learned so much from you through TH-cam.
The tool is called a "Feeler Gauge" and has several "blades" of different thicknesses. Just google it. The long hook of the spring hooks over the "L" shape of the Tension Arm Stop the video at @8:54 and you can see the spring going left-to-right in about the middle of the picture. Follow it to the right and you can see it hooked on the "L" of the Tension Arm. You can also go to @24:47 and look just below the Rear Lifter and you can see about an inch of the spring hook connected to the "L" of the arm. That spring is what makes the needle bar "swing" left and right for ZZ sewing. Thanks for watching my channel.
I still haven’t been able to get the front set screw out. I’m also having trouble removing the set screw to adjust the presser foot height. I’d like to buy a set of Chapman bits to see if they’d work better but it appears that their sewing machine set doesn’t have a small enough bit. But it’s also possible that I’m mistaken on the size. Do you happen to know what bit size is needed for those two set screws?
Sorry it is such a struggle. I don't have the machine any longer so can not test the screw bit size but I don't remember a problem with the Chapman set. You can always buy any additional bit sizes you need b/c they sell individual bits: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets There is also another brand of this style of bits and they have a 43-piece set for gunsmithing that is real popular: www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Professional-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver-43-Piece/dp/B00HTN4EWG IMO, the Chapman is better made and the little mini-ratchet is a fabulous tool to have for stuck screws, but you do get a lot of bits with the Wheeler. I had a customer from California so happy with some help I gave her that she sent me a set. One nice thing about them is that they have some thin-bladed tips that fit some screws that the Chapman bits are a little too thick for..
Sorry, I do not work on the Touch & Sew models, but Terry at TandTRepair knows all about them. He sells parts and repair guides, and I see a Timing Guide for $5.95 on his website: site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html for download, among other guides. He will give you a 20% discount if you use coupon andy-h-yt. For anyone else interested in the Model 700 or 720 you can download a free Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=720
I think this is the solution to my problem but I can’t get the front set screw to move. I’ve sprayed it with penetrating oil a couple times with no luck. Any suggestions?
Stuck screws are common on these 65-year-old machines. Oil can get in the thread and dry up like varnish. It can take some time for the oil to soften it, You can also heat the area up with a hairdryer to loosen the screw through expansion and contraction. Another method is tapping briskly on the screwdriver with a small jammer while turning it. That sharp jolt can break it free sometimes. I've had screws that I wrapped with a rag or packed cotton around and soaked for a couple of days before I could turn them..
It's been a while since I did this machine, and hard to diagnose some things without the machine on my bench, but my first thought was the followers don't follow (or move against the pattern disc unless the Red Lever is set for a ZZ width. I made a lot of videos for all those parts, including the lifters and followers. They are all in this playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
The Singer 600 series are T & S models (touch & sew and sometimes called touch & swear!)) and just not as popular as the 400 & 500 models. They have the "Auto Reel" or "Wind-in-place" bobbin system that many do not like and often people feel the controls became more complex by using a lever system to replace the dials. You can still find information about them. I don't work on them so you won't see many videos on my channel for them and I don't pay attention to them so I don't know if there are many YT videos or not. You can buy and download a copy of the Original Singer Service Manual for Model 645 for $8.99 at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-630-648-sewing-machine-service-manual/ I do not know if that particular adjustment in covered in that manual, but it is in the 400 & 500's service manuals.
I checked both my 401a's and one bushing is flush with the back and one sticks out about the same amount as the one you're working on. One is a 1957 model and one is a 1959.
Interesting. You don't mention if you checked the setting. Were they both good, or was one clearance off? I know the machines vary by use and wear, and the factory setting doesn't always work best, like on thread clearance by the bobbin case. The Service Manual (FREE download here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf) on page 139 says to adjust the rear stop by "loosen the set screw, push the stop bushing back until it 'contacts the head of the screw' and then tighten the set screw". That's it. When I did that it did not work, so that's why I moved the stop bushing a little farther back and then got the correct clearance. If I had two of these machines I'd be trying to measure all the parts to see if the shaft or bushings were not the same, haha. Nice that you have two model 401A machines, congrats, and thanks for watching and commenting on my video.
I am from algeria and i need your help on the swing machine singer 353 sprocket. How do i remove it? I am sorry if my writing was wrong because i translated it
What do you mean by sprocket, is my only question. The pulley for the hook? Or the plastic gear on top of the horizontal shaft? That plastic gear is known to break apart. It is difficult to replace because you usually must take the shaft out the top of the machine. It is a 12 step process to get it out, involving removing the main horizontal shaft. Here are all my videos for model 353; th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p.html If needed, then email me @ andytube53@gmail.com for more help. Use your native language and I can use google translate. Thanks for letting me know people in Algeria can see my videos. kli altawfiq lika
And here’s another helpful video. After finding out how to put the spring back on my 500, I’m now finding how to set the two stops. You are the man, thanks Andy.
Good on you, Rhonda. You're making great progress. If you'd care to have copies of the Service Manual and Parts Diagram contact me at andysmanuals53@gmail.com. Mention any other Singer Models you have and include whatever documents I have for them also.
Andy,
Thanks so much for this wonderful instructional video. I have the opposite trouble with my new to me 401A. The little floating finger keeps coming out of the follower. Now I will go to workbench and adjust that little spool like stop to get the required .010 to .012 inch clearance.
May you continue to educate for another 100 years.
TR
There are many moving parts on that model but at least we can adjust them ourselves. Good luck, and thanks for the comment.
I can not tell you how helpful your videos have been. I found a freshly oiled, greased and cleaned 401A (missing the bottom cover plate) at Good will for next to nothing.
It didn't work.
Watched your videos, figured out they'd put the cam followers in backwards and the cam stack too high.
Fixed those problems, couldn't get the front follower to work in all but very few positions, found your notes in this video on adjusting the stop and - perfection. Oh, my gosh, this machine is everything Singer once was (and then stopped being immediately after these machines. What harm a single greedy person can do to a major company!).
Thank you!
I appreciate you saving that machine and getting it back in service. Somebody tried to but just didn't realize how those complicated parts go back together. I'm happy that you found my videos about the 401a congratulations on your newly found treasure and happy sewing!
Good morning, Andy! It’s amazing how you drop a video just before I need to perform the task you so capably demonstrate. I chuckled when you brought out the feeler gauges-I didn’t even know what those were until I saw you use them and now I own a set. My husband jokes to his friends that I never overspend on clothes, I’d rather buy feeler gauges. 😂
Wow! A woman who works on sewing machines AND owns her own feeler gauges! What a lucky fellow your husband is. Once you get the stops set you will be ready to "Zero-Out" the machine; my next video. I started scripting it today. Hope to see you next time and thanks for the great comment. Take Care.
There was more to that adjustment than I anticipated. But, as usual, the clarity and attention to details in your videos makes it seem doable. Looking forward to working on my 401 soon.
Yes, more than anticipated. That is the nature of a model like this and the 500A and some of the T & S models. The adjustments are very doable though. I've found some very cheaply priced 401A/500A machines b/c someone took a couple parts off and did not get them back on correctly. Once adjusted properly they worked just fine. I think you'll like working on a 401A, Terry. Most of the differences between it and your 403A are what I'm showing in this "Trouble" playlist. The other parts you have worked on will be the same, as the driving arm, vibrating bracket, hook, motor, bobbin winder, etc. Thanks for watching.
REAAALLY, TO THE PERFECTION !!! NO COMMENT ... THANK YOU, ALWAYS!
OK, thank you!
Thank you so much I'm getting ready to do this now, you make the best videos ever, I truly appreciate you and your expertise
A fun weekend activity. Good luck, Barbar, and thanks for the nice comment. 🙏
I really got things messed up now 😂 back to the video
@@barbarajester7902 No worries. That's the nice thing about videos; you can pause and replay them. I know you'll be fine.
I enjoy your video and understood it because you went slow enough. I have a 600e and BL is the zigzag. I asked what the setting for zigzag on her 401 was, and she said BL. I would like to know why used D rather than BL
The setting of the knobs to BL on all the models you mention is for standard ZigZag sewing. The knobs are set to D & L not to sew but check/set the correct stops for the selector cam. The setting is for making adjustments, not for sewing. Using D L is shown in the directions for this adjustment in the SERVICE MANUAL for Model 401A on Page 139.
Awesome! Gracias!
👍
A great video Andy and very timely! I recently started to restore a 401A and find that I need to restore the front follower gap measurement. Are you using a set of gap measures that are specifically designed for Singer machines or a general set? I’m finding it difficult to locate one set that has the 3 gap measurements that you showed in your video.
Thank you. Besides the Instruction Manual, Singer made Service Manuals for each model that the repair people could use as a guide. The Service Manuals have all the adjustments, remove and replace instructions. You can find them online at sites like these; manualsoncd.com/ sewconsult.com/product-category/service-manuals/
You can find other sellers also, including on eBay where there are also CD and paper copies available. Many of these sellers have several brands available, not just Singer. Prices vary from about $8 for downloads to $20+ for printed copies. I find the Service Manual extremely helpful if I am not familiar with the model. For the Singer 401A class models (401A, 403A, 404) there happens to be a FREE copy available at this link; sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf
There are a handful of free Singer Service Manuals available online if you search diligently.
For this 401A Cam Selector Shaft Stop the instructions are on page 139 of the free manual. I hope this is what you are looking for and is somewhat helpful. Thanks for asking, and for watching my channel.
Andy, I’m seeing when doing the zigzag on my 401A, the pendulum seems off. If you cover that anywhere, can you direct me to the video. When I’m sewing, it’s obvious that it’s off because of the way the fabric moves around and I can see it pulling at fabric. Thanks
If you are sure it is not the tension of the needle thread that is the problem but the needle bar swings before it is out of the fabric you can try to check a couple of things. 1. Is the Cam Stack timed properly? th-cam.com/video/aphiW06yp64/w-d-xo.html 2. "setting the bight amplitude stop plates" or Zero-Out has been set properly. th-cam.com/video/8dntXDEYfMU/w-d-xo.html
@@andytubesewing1953 yes, the Needlebar swings while still in the fabric. I’ll watch the two videos you shared. Thank you!
I just clicked on them both….I watched both of them, one yesterday and the other today. I remember you covering this issue somewhere but it may not have been on this model. But yeah, the needle is starting the zigzag too early.
@@rhondamercado7527 Yes, the pendulum adjustment was on a different type of machine. On your 401A the Needle Bar Driving Arm (NBDA( is what makes the Needle Bar swing. That is controlled by the Disc Followers over at the Cam Stack.
I've never encountered the problem so I do not have a video, but if the NBDA is "off-center" of the Disc Selector Arm Bracket it can mess up the swinging motion and perhaps (?) the timing of the needle swing. The adjustment of it is on page 141 of your Model 401 Service Manual.
What is the name of those little measurement tools you used. I want to buy one. Also, my Rocketeer 500A the stitch selectors rotate easily but the stitch remains as a straight stitch. There is a little spring with a long metal hook inside my 500A it popped off and I don't know how to put it back on the machine. Thank you for your videos, I have learned so much from you through TH-cam.
The tool is called a "Feeler Gauge" and has several "blades" of different thicknesses. Just google it. The long hook of the spring hooks over the "L" shape of the Tension Arm Stop the video at @8:54 and you can see the spring going left-to-right in about the middle of the picture. Follow it to the right and you can see it hooked on the "L" of the Tension Arm. You can also go to @24:47 and look just below the Rear Lifter and you can see about an inch of the spring hook connected to the "L" of the arm.
That spring is what makes the needle bar "swing" left and right for ZZ sewing. Thanks for watching my channel.
I still haven’t been able to get the front set screw out. I’m also having trouble removing the set screw to adjust the presser foot height. I’d like to buy a set of Chapman bits to see if they’d work better but it appears that their sewing machine set doesn’t have a small enough bit. But it’s also possible that I’m mistaken on the size. Do you happen to know what bit size is needed for those two set screws?
Sorry it is such a struggle. I don't have the machine any longer so can not test the screw bit size but I don't remember a problem with the Chapman set. You can always buy any additional bit sizes you need b/c they sell individual bits: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets There is also another brand of this style of bits and they have a 43-piece set for gunsmithing that is real popular: www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Professional-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver-43-Piece/dp/B00HTN4EWG IMO, the Chapman is better made and the little mini-ratchet is a fabulous tool to have for stuck screws, but you do get a lot of bits with the Wheeler. I had a customer from California so happy with some help I gave her that she sent me a set. One nice thing about them is that they have some thin-bladed tips that fit some screws that the Chapman bits are a little too thick for..
Hi Andy, having some problems, trying to install the cam stack in my singer 720 touch and sew but I don't have any timing information, can you help.
Sorry, I do not work on the Touch & Sew models, but Terry at TandTRepair knows all about them. He sells parts and repair guides, and I see a Timing Guide for $5.95 on his website: site.tandtrepair.com/700TS.html for download, among other guides.
He will give you a 20% discount if you use coupon andy-h-yt. For anyone else interested in the Model 700 or 720 you can download a free Instruction Manual from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=720
I think this is the solution to my problem but I can’t get the front set screw to move. I’ve sprayed it with penetrating oil a couple times with no luck. Any suggestions?
Stuck screws are common on these 65-year-old machines. Oil can get in the thread and dry up like varnish. It can take some time for the oil to soften it, You can also heat the area up with a hairdryer to loosen the screw through expansion and contraction. Another method is tapping briskly on the screwdriver with a small jammer while turning it. That sharp jolt can break it free sometimes. I've had screws that I wrapped with a rag or packed cotton around and soaked for a couple of days before I could turn them..
What do I do if the stitch selector is moving freely without actually moving the follower?
It's been a while since I did this machine, and hard to diagnose some things without the machine on my bench, but my first thought was the followers don't follow (or move against the pattern disc unless the Red Lever is set for a ZZ width. I made a lot of videos for all those parts, including the lifters and followers. They are all in this playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Andy I need help with The cam selector shaft stops on singer model 645 why can’t I find anything about model 645?.. please help
The Singer 600 series are T & S models (touch & sew and sometimes called touch & swear!)) and just not as popular as the 400 & 500 models. They have the "Auto Reel" or "Wind-in-place" bobbin system that many do not like and often people feel the controls became more complex by using a lever system to replace the dials. You can still find information about them. I don't work on them so you won't see many videos on my channel for them and I don't pay attention to them so I don't know if there are many YT videos or not. You can buy and download a copy of the Original Singer Service Manual for Model 645 for $8.99 at this link: manualsoncd.com/product/singer-630-648-sewing-machine-service-manual/ I do not know if that particular adjustment in covered in that manual, but it is in the 400 & 500's service manuals.
I checked both my 401a's and one bushing is flush with the back and one sticks out about the same amount as the one you're working on. One is a 1957 model and one is a 1959.
Interesting. You don't mention if you checked the setting. Were they both good, or was one clearance off? I know the machines vary by use and wear, and the factory setting doesn't always work best, like on thread clearance by the bobbin case. The Service Manual (FREE download here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf) on page 139 says to adjust the rear stop by "loosen the set screw, push the stop bushing back until it 'contacts the head of the screw' and then tighten the set screw". That's it. When I did that it did not work, so that's why I moved the stop bushing a little farther back and then got the correct clearance. If I had two of these machines I'd be trying to measure all the parts to see if the shaft or bushings were not the same, haha. Nice that you have two model 401A machines, congrats, and thanks for watching and commenting on my video.
I am from algeria and i need your help on the swing machine singer 353 sprocket. How do i remove it? I am sorry if my writing was wrong because i translated it
What do you mean by sprocket, is my only question. The pulley for the hook? Or the plastic gear on top of the horizontal shaft? That plastic gear is known to break apart. It is difficult to replace because you usually must take the shaft out the top of the machine. It is a 12 step process to get it out, involving removing the main horizontal shaft. Here are all my videos for model 353;
th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJvzcqn97Yh8lvx-tbdFl2p.html
If needed, then email me @ andytube53@gmail.com for more help. Use your native language and I can use google translate.
Thanks for letting me know people in Algeria can see my videos. kli altawfiq lika