wow, i took my engine into a professional engine builder. i wanted to learn how so I came there everyday for a week and watched and helped. they used micrometers to check clearances but said plastiguage would work too, though not as exact. they also checked end play with a dial indicator and a prybar. but then again, and this is what my engine builder said, "THere is a huge difference between an engine builder and a mechanic"
This is a really GREAT series of videos, thus far! I love what he pointed out about the cam timing marks. I have always assumed it was TDC No. 1 ! Thanks for that! (pointing it out). So, it's actually TDC no 6 cylinder!? All this stuff used to be scary to me when I was younger. Now it's cake. Cool.
I see a lot people on here giving advice and criticizing. Can someone else who knows more than this guy does please give us who actually need this information a better, more detailed, and more safe instructional video on rebuilding engines ?
It's just for checking the clearance to make sure your bearings are properly sized and to make sure you have the correct clearance between the crank and bearing surfaces.
This guy seems to be pretty knowledgeable in what he's doing. I think he assumes that most of the people watching this vid have some type of knowledge about engine building and thus isn't bothering to go into great detail about every little thing.
Never hit a steel gear with a hardened steel punch or anything that is as hard or harder than the part being fitted. The impact can deform the gear or cause structural damage causing failure. A brass drift or nylon soft hammer would have been the correct tool.
This is a terrific video. The only thing I will contest though is that if you can fit a .007" feeler gauge in there then you have closer to .008". BTW I am a machinist by trade
Like the guy said...it all depends on the oil clearance your looking for...find out what the oil clearance is for that engines bearings and get the plasti gauge that gives those readings...each plasti gauge has different readings.
I'm a do it yourself enginge builder, I Like your tip on letting the guys know about the dots on the cam and the crank. Threw me off the first few times of building. I was wonderig about the divets that we're on the actual cam gear, by using a punch to install the gear on the crank ,will that cause a vibration at high RPM's?
it doesn't matter. It is easier to line up dot to dot, so do it that way. When your place your distributor in, if your valves are closed on cyl 1 and you are at tdc, you are at the end of the compression stroke/beginning of the combustion stroke.
I am so glad that I watch all these videos on How to. Old school engine builders would slap the shit out of me if I did what this guy did. SMH! But I am bored and want to see how all of you build old school engines. Funny!
All you had to do was put it in boiling water for 2 mins. It would have expanded and slid on. And in the close up the crank needs to be polished. There are scratches.
Just so some viewers know, the importance of measuring bearing clearance is to determine what weight engine oil you should use to obtain the desired oil pressure.
dude thank you on explaining that dot to dot. i though somthing was wrong with my motor when i did my timing chain and dizzy. I was woundering why the dizzy was pointing to 6 when i had it on dot to dot.
@JohnxWaynexGacy I didn't think much about the timing gear installation until 7:18 came along. There seems to be a lot a punch mark damage from where the Gentleman hammered it on. Obviously you won't see this damage when the engine is assembled, but I'd be more inclined to go with your suggestion on this subject... Thanks.
i know you mean to write, 0:22 and i totally agree with you, theres at least 100 different tools he could have used and that punch was not one of them.
Question: Since the timing would be 180* out with the gears being "dot to dot", could you then install the distributor timed to # 6 and time accordingly? Say the firing order is "1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2", would you then time it "6 5 7 2 1 8 4 3"?
It was a rhetorical question, I wasn't wanting you to answer it, I was trying to prove a point to you. If it gets the job done the same exact way with having no differences whatsoever mechanically than why was it such a big deal? I wasn't taught any way, I've never done this, but wanting to learn, ie why I'm here...
i didn't knew cars doesn't have much inside it.... motor bikes is more complecated as far as I have seen gears... piston, crank pretty uch about inside the car he he he unbelievable how this simple machine can be fast as 250mph nascar
Really helpful video .I have question if you can help me out I'm doing a rebuild on 3900 LT impala and where can I find the torque specs fore putting the engine back together
ok... so if i have to clearance .003 all others should have .003 too am i right... i have one more question. how do i knew the right clearance? is the bearing manufactured or the car itself manufactured?
hey guys, quick question, i go to a tech school for diesel engines, and the plasti gauge we have the pack have about 4 different size plasti gauges in them, how would you know which one to use?
Thats the better way yes, But at 1:17 I can see that I for sure dont have a socket to go free from the crank. But i would find some pipe than would go over instead.
im thinking about purchasing a chevy capree if thats how you spell it but i think it has a rod knocing cause i here a clanging when its in idle how whould i go about fixing that
by the way I watch other video without using plastic gauge... he was just using the clicking wrench hand tight first, then 21 pound, then 65 pound... then his car start smooth
this is more of a what not to do honestly tighten it more!!!! omfg if that was my engine i would be jumping up and down when it sends the piston out of the block!!!
:30 just by showing that a 7 thousanths feeler gauge will go in doesn't mean that it has that amount of end play? Try .008 if that fits in still, try .009 if that doesn't work then it has .008 of clearence.
@xNORxCALxLIVINx : No time to make vidios, BUT I drive my 91' 3500 Dually W/ 454ci.+ 0.30 that I built EVERY DAY. Balanced & All clearances checked and loged. When I rebuild the one in my 75' C-30 dually, ill make one & go into great DETAIL. Cause That'z What I Do.
Is there a certain way to break in rod an main bearings cause thats all i changed in my 350 besides timing chain an gaskets lol please anyone let me know
@flipbarracuda yes it does matter. i'm pretty sure if you were taking an ASE test that they would fail you if you did so. It may not matter when people know what your talking about but in the professional rhealm of mechanics, it does matter. I'm not what you would call a hick, i am a country boy though. I like my Chevy's loud and powerful just like the next guy. My engine knowledge would suprise you though.
@xNORxCALxLIVINx: Man it sucks, it's a Gen. V W/ .520 lift 230 dur @.50 hyd. comp. cam. the large oval port heads have ben set up for an adjustable valve train, 3/8'' trendz pushrods, forged SRP pistons, Eagle I beam rods, Factory 1053 forged crank 4.00'' stroke, headman headers, Edlebrock Air gap intake, Fact. T.B.I. & ecm. Not running at it's full potential cause of fact. ecm. cotrols timeing and fuel table's. I need to get after market computer for Engine and one TCI for the 4L80e trans
This is how you measure if you don't have a dial indicators. Just because the TV shows has all the fancy tools doesn't mean using the dial indicator is the only method. Also using plastic guage is perfectly acceptable for street engine. When you want a HP monster then you have to check the ID with dial gauges.
Plasteguage? OH MY GOD, get a set of micrometers & learn how to read them & use them. Also you dont just start torqueing and go slam to your torque spec. you work your way up in increments.
guys, really??? you gage Before you add assembly lube. you will not get an accurate reading. just as, you grind your block clearence Before you put lube anywhere. as lubed, you risk contamination from the material flying everywhere and having the lube catch some file'ngs.
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whoever made this video did a great job. Zooming in on the timing gear as it was being seated shows a good attention to detail.
wow, i took my engine into a professional engine builder. i wanted to learn how so I came there everyday for a week and watched and helped. they used micrometers to check clearances but said plastiguage would work too, though not as exact. they also checked end play with a dial indicator and a prybar. but then again, and this is what my engine builder said, "THere is a huge difference between an engine builder and a mechanic"
This is a really GREAT series of videos, thus far! I love what he pointed out about the cam timing marks. I have always assumed it was TDC No. 1 ! Thanks for that! (pointing it out). So, it's actually TDC no 6 cylinder!? All this stuff used to be scary to me when I was younger. Now it's cake. Cool.
I see a lot people on here giving advice and criticizing. Can someone else who knows more than this guy does please give us who actually need this information a better, more detailed, and more safe instructional video on rebuilding engines ?
It's just for checking the clearance to make sure your bearings are properly sized and to make sure you have the correct clearance between the crank and bearing surfaces.
I use a concrete Jack hammer to install my crank and it always works for me!
This guy seems to be pretty knowledgeable in what he's doing. I think he assumes that most of the people watching this vid have some type of knowledge about engine building and thus isn't bothering to go into great detail about every little thing.
you are very smart ,hats off ,for doing this job.
Excellent dot to dot tip.
"Rush" builds are 180 deg out because of figuring that hte dots mean everything is timed and set with #1 at TDC...
soooo informative! I thought it was at top dead center til you mentioned the 180 part. tight.
Never hit a steel gear with a hardened steel punch or anything that is as hard or harder than the part being fitted. The impact can deform the gear or cause structural damage causing failure. A brass drift or nylon soft hammer would have been the correct tool.
I just keep an old hot plate in the shop. Heat the gear and it’ll slide on quite easily.
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
This is a terrific video. The only thing I will contest though is that if you can fit a .007" feeler gauge in there then you have closer to .008". BTW I am a machinist by trade
Thanks, Mike. Is there a mark on the engine case to show exact TDC?
Like the guy said...it all depends on the oil clearance your looking for...find out what the oil clearance is for that engines bearings and get the plasti gauge that gives those readings...each plasti gauge has different readings.
dang that crank rings so nice
I'm a do it yourself enginge builder, I Like your tip on letting the guys know about the dots on the cam and the crank. Threw me off the first few times of building. I was wonderig about the divets that we're on the actual cam gear, by using a punch to install the gear on the crank ,will that cause a vibration at high RPM's?
it doesn't matter. It is easier to line up dot to dot, so do it that way. When your place your distributor in, if your valves are closed on cyl 1 and you are at tdc, you are at the end of the compression stroke/beginning of the combustion stroke.
EXCELLENT point about the dots!
I am so glad that I watch all these videos on How to. Old school engine builders would slap the shit out of me if I did what this guy did. SMH! But I am bored and want to see how all of you build old school engines. Funny!
with every thing he says he has a look on his face like god i hope this just all gose together all right
Fantastic videos, I was wondering with the plastigage, do you have to use the end main cap or could you use any one of them?
The punch marks on the crank sprocket will add to the resale value.
@darktreason correct, you can find special bearings, or have a machine shop lathe your crank.
All you had to do was put it in boiling water for 2 mins. It would have expanded and slid on.
And in the close up the crank needs to be polished. There are scratches.
Sweet ass torque wrench!!
OD of the journal and ID of the bearing. I can dig it.
Just so some viewers know, the importance of measuring bearing clearance is to determine what weight engine oil you should use to obtain the desired oil pressure.
If you have a problem with rod oil clearance the problem might be the rod itself. He didnt mention that in the vid.
dude thank you on explaining that dot to dot. i though somthing was wrong with my motor when i did my timing chain and dizzy. I was woundering why the dizzy was pointing to 6 when i had it on dot to dot.
Great vid
If you would just heat the gear, it would fall in place. When it cools it will be tight to the crank without having to hammer on it.
@JohnxWaynexGacy I didn't think much about the timing gear installation until 7:18 came along. There seems to be a lot a punch mark damage from where the Gentleman hammered it on. Obviously you won't see this damage when the engine is assembled, but I'd be more inclined to go with your suggestion on this subject... Thanks.
so is the cam dot in the right spot and the crank needs to be up or does both dots need to be away from each other
i know you mean to write, 0:22 and i totally agree with you, theres at least 100 different tools he could have used and that punch was not one of them.
Question: Since the timing would be 180* out with the gears being "dot to dot", could you then install the distributor timed to # 6 and time accordingly? Say the firing order is "1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2", would you then time it "6 5 7 2 1 8 4 3"?
@pskittle488 no...will work fine...keep in mind the crank turns twice for one turn of the cam sprocket....trust me...
OMG! You just hammered the timing gear on in the first 5 seconds of this video. Shut it off right away
How would that make a difference?
There is a stop at the end of it. If he punched both sides to where they wouldn't move anymore than he's got it centered?
It's not a show engine lmao you can't even see that part when it's out together
It was a rhetorical question, I wasn't wanting you to answer it, I was trying to prove a point to you. If it gets the job done the same exact way with having no differences whatsoever mechanically than why was it such a big deal? I wasn't taught any way, I've never done this, but wanting to learn, ie why I'm here...
If it is seated at the bottom then why would it lift up and wobble?
i didn't knew cars doesn't have much inside it.... motor bikes is more complecated as far as I have seen gears... piston, crank pretty uch about inside the car he he he unbelievable how this simple machine can be fast as 250mph nascar
Does it matter whether you put the marking on the crank @ the bottom or the top?
Really helpful video .I have question if you can help me out I'm doing a rebuild on 3900 LT impala and where can I find the torque specs fore putting the engine back together
dinni
thanks for the timing mark info,i was assuming the dot to dot was tdc!
hello how do you knew the right clearance is it the bearing manufactured or the car manufactured?
ok... so if i have to clearance .003 all others should have .003 too am i right... i have one more question. how do i knew the right clearance? is the bearing manufactured or the car itself manufactured?
I am building one these motors right now.
man your awsome for beginners
hey guys, quick question, i go to a tech school for diesel engines, and the plasti gauge we have the pack have about 4 different size plasti gauges in them, how would you know which one to use?
Thats the better way yes, But at 1:17 I can see that I for sure dont have a socket to go free from the crank. But i would find some pipe than would go over instead.
A motor is an electrical device. An ENGINE uses some type of fuel.
im thinking about purchasing a chevy capree if thats how you spell it but i think it has a rod knocing cause i here a clanging when its in idle how whould i go about fixing that
What does it mean when the end caps need 20 ftlb of torque + 50 degrees?
@METALLIRATT If no one has told you yet. try ebay for a cheap one. If not then snap-on, Matco, Mac or Cornwell. I prefer Matco.
first comment, actually this series of videos are really instructive!
by the way I watch other video without using plastic gauge... he was just using the clicking wrench hand tight first, then 21 pound, then 65 pound... then his car start smooth
this is more of a what not to do honestly tighten it more!!!! omfg if that was my engine i would be jumping up and down when it sends the piston out of the block!!!
Mike looks like a guy I would like to do some bbq with
torqing the main bolts more will not change the bearing clearence!!! ithe whole reason for the torque range is to strech the bolt
Does this include the 1 gen 350 motors?
Dude... I'm suprised you haven't gotten new monitors yet. I would have broken them with a lug wrech if they did that to me.
WEN YOUR TORQUE DOWN THE BOLTS DO YOU NEED TO USE LOCK TIE
yeah exactly, didn't get that part either, probably it depends on what firing you want
you should have put a big socket on the crank gear instead of using a punch
do you knew whats the purpose of plastuc gauge?
@rocker4u123
What is a Motor City making then?
Good
i Seen machine being apart I didn't expect car doesn't have much inside it.
@mrgabriale absolutely!.....
:30 just by showing that a 7 thousanths feeler gauge will go in doesn't mean that it has that amount of end play? Try .008 if that fits in still, try .009 if that doesn't work then it has .008 of clearence.
@xNORxCALxLIVINx : No time to make vidios, BUT I drive my 91' 3500 Dually W/ 454ci.+ 0.30 that I built EVERY DAY. Balanced & All clearances checked and loged. When I rebuild the one in my 75' C-30 dually, ill make one & go into great DETAIL. Cause That'z What I Do.
what is the purpose of plastic gauge?
@tyrone121285 absolutely this guy is awesome...
Really can't tell if you've made much difference with cam timing without a dyno.
When I was a kid, I would clean my car and the engine ran better!
hey men 65 torque in libras our newton?
check end play with a dial indicator, the thrust surfaces of the bearing and crank are not perfect. never with a feeler guage
@jknight1972 oi im a Ford fan still like the video
Is there a certain way to break in rod an main bearings cause thats all i changed in my 350 besides timing chain an gaskets lol please anyone let me know
@flipbarracuda yes it does matter. i'm pretty sure if you were taking an ASE test that they would fail you if you did so. It may not matter when people know what your talking about but in the professional rhealm of mechanics, it does matter. I'm not what you would call a hick, i am a country boy though. I like my Chevy's loud and powerful just like the next guy. My engine knowledge would suprise you though.
i just put a new cam in my engine. but now i have no compression in my engine im lost
@witchdoctor88 i believe its a snap on
5:45 he means partial-data
continued on part 6? what happened to part 5?
@xNORxCALxLIVINx: Man it sucks, it's a Gen. V W/ .520 lift 230 dur @.50 hyd. comp. cam. the large oval port heads have ben set up for an adjustable valve train, 3/8'' trendz pushrods, forged SRP pistons, Eagle I beam rods, Factory 1053 forged crank 4.00'' stroke, headman headers, Edlebrock Air gap intake, Fact. T.B.I. & ecm. Not running at it's full potential cause of fact. ecm. cotrols timeing and fuel table's. I need to get after market computer for Engine and one TCI for the 4L80e trans
I don't get the dot to dot explanation.
@clocko322 You always line the dots up.
@rocker4u123 It's called either one. I learned a few days ago that they are the same thing, haha
Why didn't he use a dial indicator? Which is a sure way to get a accurate measurement.
This is how you measure if you don't have a dial indicators. Just because the TV shows has all the fancy tools doesn't mean using the dial indicator is the only method. Also using plastic guage is perfectly acceptable for street engine. When you want a HP monster then you have to check the ID with dial gauges.
the timing gear install is not the right way to do it
I thought 5 was the companion for 1.
1 person is a ford fan.
WOW, you should heat up the crank gear to like 300F and it would slide on easy, and Plasti Gage, really? who still uses that lol
or heat the sprocket
Why doesnt this guy have his own show?? Much rathe wath him on Spike than Jessie james or any of those other B.S shows
so, how about trying that on a Quad 4? :trollface:
Plasteguage? OH MY GOD, get a set of micrometers & learn how to read them & use them. Also you dont just start torqueing and go slam to your torque spec. you work your way up in increments.
guys, really??? you gage Before you add assembly lube. you will not get an accurate reading. just as, you grind your block clearence Before you put lube anywhere. as lubed, you risk contamination from the material flying everywhere and having the lube catch some file'ngs.
Found it :D
I would had heated the gear rather than use a punch.
3 different lubes?!?!?! What a waste!
its a damn engine, not a motor!
wheres the loctite?