The bars appear to be for current handling. They aren't needed on the last two outputs because it's a short enough distance from the end of the last bar that the traces can handle the load.
@@temporarilyoffline yeah, they ran out of room because of the monitoring circuit. With that many outputs you can probably limit those last two to lower current applications.
40 amps is a lot of current for a circuit board trace, they've supplemented it with jumper bars. The higher current loads should be placed closer to the input side to reduce the losses, so the far side is for low current loads (and where they had the smaller fuses). A better design is to use an SB50 or PowerPole 75 on the input, at least for battery or higher current power sources. 30/45 amp size PowerPoles get quite hot at 30+ amps continuous. They are fine at 25 amps and below. Overall this power strip looks decent. 73 de w6akb
Please keep taking stuff apart (like I need to tel you). Watching your video and reading the comments is helping me in my electronics adventure, thanks!
From yr video, seems well built, oh n the 2 open connectors, are listed as included plus the 18 others, maybe these are for slightly larger wires, for the supply side, unsure, cheers again Steve,.. 😀 Jus saw yr reply to the other comment, will be interesting, I have 2 Windcamp units, but neither have been used, (yet)
Those two "Messed up contacts" are not messed up, they are 45A contacts where as the small ones with round holes are 15A or 30A :) The jumpers lower the resistance thus lower voltage drop and increase amperage handling. I have a rigrunner. I Feed it in the Center then i have the high amperage users closest to the input and the further away you go from the input the lower amperage devices you connect. Keeping the voltage drop to a minimum is important. We only have "12v" (13.8v) to begin with. 73 OY1R
nice unit. they added extra jumpers to help with higher current. the outher jump thing may be for the power monitor lights to change set points r turn off. maybe change to 24V . they sell a 24V version, that a real nice one. off grid livening uses 24V ,36,48V . aircraft is 24V . 73's
@@HAMRADIODUDE I was looking at some from West Mountain Radio the other day, same price range with fewer poles, but 2 USB outlets. I am thinking something like that for my jeep. It is hard to leave equipment in the jeep, power poles would make swapping stuff in and out much easier.
Hi Steve, Appears to good quality. Only reason I can see for the wire links is to help with current flow for the outputs with higher fuse ratings. The two power pole connectors that were open should be rated for 45A. Those that are closed could be 15 or 30A, if you check the Anderson website. I always buy the 45A rated connectors. You and the family stay safe.
Nice review, it's great to see a tear down and inspection. I use PowerPoles and Rigrunners all the time, and would love to see an equivalent at a better price. The price difference between this unit a 4008 is $25. My concern with these "knockoffs" is longevity. I have a 4005 that I've been using for 20 years. Peace of mind is worth a few dollars.
I need a couple power poles, one for the jeep, but that one needs USB connectors. All cars should have 10 USB outlets. Thanks for showing this option TO.
Another thought is I would tie the buzzer disconnect to a switch on the cover so I could disable it if the battery input went low. Otherwise it would keep drawing current making the low voltage even worse... and the buzzer would also drive me nuts after a while. Just saying.
I've not had any issues with non-Anderson connectors by themselves. The only issue I've had with them is when you gang them together. The tolerances aren't always the best on those dovetails, so when you pair an Anderson with a non-Anderson, they can sometimes be a little loose or (more often) way too tight, so tight that you risk destroying them just getting them separated. I'll see it occasionally when ganging together two non-Anderson, but not as much as when I'm mixing them.
Abit off topic but could this be used for a 12v car accessories system? I'm trying to find an alternative fused power bar for the dash components on a casual rally car build. Im wanting the wiring to be able to QD lile this for stuff like GPS, cameras, digital compass and other peripherals. No lights or high draw stuff though that would be an interesting cleansolution with some kyzen relays 🤔
@@temporarilyoffline it's a goof build. We are taking a Daihatsu Hijet kei truck from Japan and making a micro Dakar style truck. I have been updating one of the head NORRA inspectors for compliance all around during the build.
Once I started using the retention clips on my Powerpoles I started to prefer the horizontal orientation, because it doesn't block the holes for the clips. Have you tried the clips?
If the current is limited by the fuses, then the High - Normal - Low LEDs I would guess is the voltage level. Not very helpful if the trigger points aren't specified. Does the buzzer sound if the High or Low trigger points are activated? Inquiring minds want to know.
Those 2 aren’t messed up. They’re the 45amp Power Poles for bigger wires.
I saw that after I finished recording
The bars appear to be for current handling. They aren't needed on the last two outputs because it's a short enough distance from the end of the last bar that the traces can handle the load.
Did you see where the traces got smaller also?
@@temporarilyoffline yeah, they ran out of room because of the monitoring circuit. With that many outputs you can probably limit those last two to lower current applications.
40 amps is a lot of current for a circuit board trace, they've supplemented it with jumper bars. The higher current loads should be placed closer to the input side to reduce the losses, so the far side is for low current loads (and where they had the smaller fuses). A better design is to use an SB50 or PowerPole 75 on the input, at least for battery or higher current power sources. 30/45 amp size PowerPoles get quite hot at 30+ amps continuous. They are fine at 25 amps and below. Overall this power strip looks decent. 73 de w6akb
Those were my thoughts too Alan thanks
Please keep taking stuff apart (like I need to tel you). Watching your video and reading the comments is helping me in my electronics adventure, thanks!
It's helping me too!
From yr video, seems well built, oh n the 2 open connectors, are listed as included plus the 18 others, maybe these are for slightly larger wires, for the supply side, unsure, cheers again Steve,.. 😀 Jus saw yr reply to the other comment, will be interesting, I have 2 Windcamp units, but neither have been used, (yet)
Hey Tom! Thanks!
Those two "Messed up contacts" are not messed up, they are 45A contacts where as the small ones with round holes are 15A or 30A :)
The jumpers lower the resistance thus lower voltage drop and increase amperage handling.
I have a rigrunner. I Feed it in the Center then i have the high amperage users closest to the input and the further away you go from the input the lower amperage devices you connect.
Keeping the voltage drop to a minimum is important. We only have "12v" (13.8v) to begin with.
73 OY1R
Thanks for the extra info! Could they have used wider traces on the pcb for that?
nice unit. they added extra jumpers to help with higher current. the outher jump thing may be for the power monitor lights to change set points r turn off. maybe change to 24V . they sell a 24V version, that a real nice one. off grid livening uses 24V ,36,48V . aircraft is 24V . 73's
Thanks Robert - the extra jumpers(shunts) are for turning off the beeper
The bars arre obviously for current handling.
Obviously! 🤣
Thanks for the video. I have the same distro block and this was very helpful.
You're welcome!
The open ones are for 45Amps used for input from PS
Thanks!
Wouldn't mind seeing the inside of that MFJ from the other day. This is a great distribution block though.
Sorry, I was thinking of the f1005 .. I can't speak for this one personally
@@HAMRADIODUDE I was looking at some from West Mountain Radio the other day, same price range with fewer poles, but 2 USB outlets. I am thinking something like that for my jeep. It is hard to leave equipment in the jeep, power poles would make swapping stuff in and out much easier.
Hi Steve,
Appears to good quality. Only reason I can see for the wire links is to help with current flow for the outputs with higher fuse ratings. The two power pole connectors that were open should be rated for 45A. Those that are closed could be 15 or 30A, if you check the Anderson website. I always buy the 45A rated connectors. You and the family stay safe.
Thanks Don, you too!
I have a Windcamp one which doesn't have the voltage indication or buzzer, so it was cheaper, but they are nice features to have on the Chunzehui
I have the basic windcamp also, that one is up next
Nice review, it's great to see a tear down and inspection.
I use PowerPoles and Rigrunners all the time, and would love to see an equivalent at a better price. The price difference between this unit a 4008 is $25. My concern with these "knockoffs" is longevity. I have a 4005 that I've been using for 20 years. Peace of mind is worth a few dollars.
Thanks! I love taking things apart and seeing how they tick.
I need a couple power poles, one for the jeep, but that one needs USB connectors. All cars should have 10 USB outlets. Thanks for showing this option TO.
10? 10? I want to party with you!
Another thought is I would tie the buzzer disconnect to a switch on the cover so I could disable it if the battery input went low. Otherwise it would keep drawing current making the low voltage even worse... and the buzzer would also drive me nuts after a while. Just saying.
I can see that. This is the only one with a buzzer and I haven't been missing it all these years in my shack.
I've not had any issues with non-Anderson connectors by themselves. The only issue I've had with them is when you gang them together. The tolerances aren't always the best on those dovetails, so when you pair an Anderson with a non-Anderson, they can sometimes be a little loose or (more often) way too tight, so tight that you risk destroying them just getting them separated. I'll see it occasionally when ganging together two non-Anderson, but not as much as when I'm mixing them.
Same, I haven't had any real problems myself either.
Abit off topic but could this be used for a 12v car accessories system? I'm trying to find an alternative fused power bar for the dash components on a casual rally car build. Im wanting the wiring to be able to QD lile this for stuff like GPS, cameras, digital compass and other peripherals.
No lights or high draw stuff though that would be an interesting cleansolution with some kyzen relays 🤔
I don't see why it wouldn't be - unless it wouldn't pass tech. Those would be the folks to ask. What kind of car? I love rally!
@@temporarilyoffline it's a goof build. We are taking a Daihatsu Hijet kei truck from Japan and making a micro Dakar style truck. I have been updating one of the head NORRA inspectors for compliance all around during the build.
@@captiandemocracy sounds like a lot of fun!
Once I started using the retention clips on my Powerpoles I started to prefer the horizontal orientation, because it doesn't block the holes for the clips. Have you tried the clips?
I've seen them, but I haven't tried them yet.
If the current is limited by the fuses, then the High - Normal - Low LEDs I would guess is the voltage level. Not very helpful if the trigger points aren't specified. Does the buzzer sound if the High or Low trigger points are activated? Inquiring minds want to know.
I have an idea to setup a 9v battery as a test.
Don't look bad I would try it
Yeah, it looked good to me!