Pure gold, if your just about to start your bulkhead replacement project. I can really see what Im getting into, Thanks again Mike your brilliant ex-planer...Im not so scared anymore, Getting it all strait and factory again, with doors that stay closed for once..Brilliant tank you so much..
Cheers Mike. Persephone has some gap issues too. Looked closer and found one of those boots behind seat belt missing - aha! Bush- mechanic was here and with couple other things knew tub has been removed.
I just replaced the bulkhead on my 90 and trying to fit everything back together. This video is spot on to give me the information I didn't know existed! Thanks!!
Exactly what I was looking for. Just bought a 94 200tdi and the door gaps are crap. I think the hinges are as well but I will swap those out and use your adjustment tips. Thank you!
Well mike I have a lot to sort out on my 91 110 I have replaced rear cross member and half chassis on driver side I'm in uk so you now. Lol after fitting everything back on my doors are a mess to put it nicely they don't line up with the tub so I think I have put the whole back end to hi by about 1/4 inch .so looking at your fantastic video I can see how to put it right I think. thanks so much you are the man that can top man ...🥊🥊🥊👍
Setting the doors is a major thing after any serious work - it can be done, but the key is to work off the rear crossmember not the bulkhead - on pre Td5 this was fixed so a good starting point
So handy, thanks! Subscribed, and just about to go check my door gaps as ... guess what ... the previous owner has 'rebuilt' (badly) and the doors don't fit no matter how I mess about with them! I knew it was this problem but you've explained it so clearly! Great :)
Yup, what a surprise. *Both* my Ninety and 109 the gaps aren't equal - no wonder I have trouble shutting the doors and couldn't get them to hang right! Can this adjustment be done with everything (save the doors) still on the vehicle, just by loosening the roof and bulkhead (if the tub is at 90deg to the sill?). I've got to do everything by the roadside as no garage/workshop or even driveway!
Nick, Don't worry about not having anywhere to work - I cut my teeth working on cars outside my house in a terraced street! Like a Coronation Street house.. Once the door gaps are right it puts an end to leaks and draughts So if the tub is at 90 degrees, and the gap at the bottom is 34 3/4, then it has to be the bulkhead that needs moving I will put up a quick video on pulling a bulkhead to get a door to fit Mike
Thanks Mike! I've been messing around trying to hang my drivers side door but with no luck, its too low no matter what I've tired, Ill try a few of your tricks in the morning and see how i go!
If you set your door on the bulkhead central in the slots - halfway up and half way back and forth until the front door edge is parallel to the bulkhead, then you an use that as a datum to see where you are splodging
The bulkhead - work off the part where the vertical part of the door pillar under the top hinge meets the radius part - the tight almost 90 degree corner, should line with the corresponding part on the tub If you are building your own, then you will have to determine the height from there
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks mate, I figured as much just wanted to check. My vehicle started as a Def 110 cab chassis (very rare to get a hard top in Australia and no pick up’s at all). I have shortened the rear of chassis 200mm and will be making the cab 200mm longer (including the doors). Your videos are a great help and resource to the LR community. Thank you 👍
Just got my 110 back from accident repair. It took at hit square across the bonnet line. bonnet and wings were all beyond repair, and it pushed the bulkhead back enough to make the n/s door not close properly, running out of square from top to bottom - it caught on the door catch. I pointed this out to the bodyshop but all they did is move the catch... so to realign the doors its a roof off job? Pretty sure they didn't do that. Luckily I had the option to refuse the car and it's back with them.. :(
Hi Mike, great video and all your other videos :) I've been watching them all to help with my rebuild but I've rang into trouble. I'm fitting an aftermarket chassis and on one side I have the magic 34 3/4" at the bottom but on the other side I have only 34 1/4", should I cut a bit of the tube off at the bottom to allow my bulkhead to move forward ? any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks Shane
Hi mate ive done exactly this on my build and ive gone to fit the plastic 300 tdi transmission tunnel and it isnt long enough by about 10mm . If i move my bulkhead back more that will mean that i will have about 15 mm of washers on the bulkhead outriggers as i already have 5 mm and my door gaps will be just under 34 1/2 inch . Do you have any suggestions thanks
Yes mate td5. But if I shove the tub forward any more it will look daft as the top of the cross member will be on show. Today I've put 4 washers between bulkhead and outrigger totaling 13 mm each side and that seems to have done the trick but left me with a door gap of 34 1/2 inch top and bottom do you think this will be ok. Thanks regards ron
Great clips & tips Mike - thanks! Quick question, from memory I think a Series 3 might be constructed slightly differently (where bulkhead footwells bolt to chassis upright brackets) so I just wondered if a Series 3 bulkhead can be tilted with shims like you've described in this clip of the 90? Cheers! Chris
thats interesting. I was introduced to a bloke at hobsons who built the prototypes for the MOD. He said 880mm, which is 2.65mm shorter. is there that much tolerance to the measurement?
Brilliant video, very helpful! I have a question Mike. I had a bale of hay land on my front wing of my 110 destroying it. It also bent the drivers door slightly preventing me from opening it. I'm pretty sure the bulkhead didn't move I actually think the b pillar was bent towards the rear of the car by the door pushing into it. What's the best way of checking the position and alignment of the b post? Hopefully the door will then fit ok! Thanks for another great video.
Can i do those bulkhead adjustments without removing anything else? My 110 1998 is pretty good beside the front doors that are off a bit, cant see to adjust it by the hinges, and i see my bulkhead is tilted backyards, tried pushing it foward as you showed in another video but didnt go much Now i'm looking to try this, but dont have time or space to disassemble much
What if I’m just under 34 and three-quarter? I put a new rear crossmember in and I thought I had everything perfect but I’m off by a 16th of an inch. Would that work?
@@BritannicaRestorations no its not its all loose... The front corner of the door nearest the windscreen is touching... also the rear side panel does not quite reach where the rubber trim goes either... I have slacked everything off but tomorrow I am going to see how square it is in the corner like you showed :D Great videos by the way
Fantastic!!! In relation to the tub the rear bar that fixes to the tub and crossmember on Td5/puma models how would you advise setting that bar as I know on earlier Land Rovers they have tabs welded to the crossmember that the tub bolts 2 ?
I really hope the guy who owners my series before did not mess this up haha But I think I will have to do it.... there are washers under the doorlocks so they work...
You are a life saver when it comes to never ending job of defenders . Thank you very much
Thanks!
Pure gold, if your just about to start your bulkhead replacement project. I can really see what Im getting into, Thanks again Mike your brilliant ex-planer...Im not so scared anymore, Getting it all strait and factory again, with doors that stay closed for once..Brilliant tank you so much..
Have fun!
Cheers Mike. Persephone has some gap issues too. Looked closer and found one of those boots behind seat belt missing - aha! Bush- mechanic was here and with couple other things knew tub has been removed.
I just replaced the bulkhead on my 90 and trying to fit everything back together. This video is spot on to give me the information I didn't know existed! Thanks!!
Excellent!
Do it right and you will be very happy!
Mike
Great vid - this will help me a lot sorting out my Series 2a. Cheers.
Amazingly helpful. Thank you. Patient and precise explanation of a troublesome issue :)
Thanks!
Exactly what I was looking for. Just bought a 94 200tdi and the door gaps are crap. I think the hinges are as well but I will swap those out and use your adjustment tips. Thank you!
No problem 👍
This was a great couple (part 1 and 2) of videos. Will be watching more of your vids in the coming days...thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Welcome aboard!
Well mike I have a lot to sort out on my 91 110 I have replaced rear cross member and half chassis on driver side I'm in uk so you now. Lol after fitting everything back on my doors are a mess to put it nicely they don't line up with the tub so I think I have put the whole back end to hi by about 1/4 inch .so looking at your fantastic video I can see how to put it right I think. thanks so much you are the man that can top man ...🥊🥊🥊👍
Setting the doors is a major thing after any serious work - it can be done, but the key is to work off the rear crossmember not the bulkhead - on pre Td5 this was fixed so a good starting point
So handy, thanks! Subscribed, and just about to go check my door gaps as ... guess what ... the previous owner has 'rebuilt' (badly) and the doors don't fit no matter how I mess about with them! I knew it was this problem but you've explained it so clearly! Great :)
Yup, what a surprise. *Both* my Ninety and 109 the gaps aren't equal - no wonder I have trouble shutting the doors and couldn't get them to hang right! Can this adjustment be done with everything (save the doors) still on the vehicle, just by loosening the roof and bulkhead (if the tub is at 90deg to the sill?). I've got to do everything by the roadside as no garage/workshop or even driveway!
Nick,
Don't worry about not having anywhere to work - I cut my teeth working on cars outside my house in a terraced street!
Like a Coronation Street house..
Once the door gaps are right it puts an end to leaks and draughts
So if the tub is at 90 degrees, and the gap at the bottom is 34 3/4, then it has to be the bulkhead that needs moving
I will put up a quick video on pulling a bulkhead to get a door to fit
Mike
You are a real genius and thank you for sharing these acknowledgment with us guys. Thank you Mate wishes from overseas
Thanks Mike! I've been messing around trying to hang my drivers side door but with no luck, its too low no matter what I've tired, Ill try a few of your tricks in the morning and see how i go!
Low at the front or back?
@@BritannicaRestorations the doors too low at the back, i may have to shim the bulk head or lower the tub slightly to compensate.
If you set your door on the bulkhead central in the slots - halfway up and half way back and forth until the front door edge is parallel to the bulkhead, then you an use that as a datum to see where you are splodging
Thanks Mike,,, Missed this one... Very important stuff and great information...J.Scotland
Love it! A great help! Keep them coming
Glad to help
Mike
Hi Mike, great videos 👍👏. I’ll be building my own rear tub. When mounting, what determines the height of the forward end of rear tub?
The bulkhead - work off the part where the vertical part of the door pillar under the top hinge meets the radius part - the tight almost 90 degree corner, should line with the corresponding part on the tub
If you are building your own, then you will have to determine the height from there
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks mate, I figured as much just wanted to check. My vehicle started as a Def 110 cab chassis (very rare to get a hard top in Australia and no pick up’s at all). I have shortened the rear of chassis 200mm and will be making the cab 200mm longer (including the doors). Your videos are a great help and resource to the LR community. Thank you 👍
Just got my 110 back from accident repair. It took at hit square across the bonnet line. bonnet and wings were all beyond repair, and it pushed the bulkhead back enough to make the n/s door not close properly, running out of square from top to bottom - it caught on the door catch. I pointed this out to the bodyshop but all they did is move the catch... so to realign the doors its a roof off job? Pretty sure they didn't do that. Luckily I had the option to refuse the car and it's back with them.. :(
I am surprised they repaired it - once a bulkhead is compromised, I would have though it an uneconomic repair - lot of work to replace it
Hi Mike, great video and all your other videos :) I've been watching them all to help with my rebuild but I've rang into trouble. I'm fitting an aftermarket chassis and on one side I have the magic 34 3/4" at the bottom but on the other side I have only 34 1/4", should I cut a bit of the tube off at the bottom to allow my bulkhead to move forward ? any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks Shane
I would if I was you - I have seen some chassis made with long tubes in the outriggers
@@BritannicaRestorations I'll get cutting, thanks for quick reply Mike 😁
Hi mate ive done exactly this on my build and ive gone to fit the plastic 300 tdi transmission tunnel and it isnt long enough by about 10mm . If i move my bulkhead back more that will mean that i will have about 15 mm of washers on the bulkhead outriggers as i already have 5 mm and my door gaps will be just under 34 1/2 inch . Do you have any suggestions thanks
What about the rear tub - is this on a TD5?
Yes mate td5. But if I shove the tub forward any more it will look daft as the top of the cross member will be on show. Today I've put 4 washers between bulkhead and outrigger totaling 13 mm each side and that seems to have done the trick but left me with a door gap of 34 1/2 inch top and bottom do you think this will be ok. Thanks regards ron
Great clips & tips Mike - thanks! Quick question, from memory I think a Series 3 might be constructed slightly differently (where bulkhead footwells bolt to chassis upright brackets) so I just wondered if a Series 3 bulkhead can be tilted with shims like you've described in this clip of the 90? Cheers! Chris
From memory the Series had shims on the uprights that come off the chassis to the bulkhead
@@BritannicaRestorations Okay, great - thanks 😁
thats interesting. I was introduced to a bloke at hobsons who built the prototypes for the MOD. He said 880mm, which is 2.65mm shorter. is there that much tolerance to the measurement?
Dunno, but it seems the body shell was in inches as it was from 1961
Brilliant video, very helpful! I have a question Mike. I had a bale of hay land on my front wing of my 110 destroying it. It also bent the drivers door slightly preventing me from opening it. I'm pretty sure the bulkhead didn't move I actually think the b pillar was bent towards the rear of the car by the door pushing into it. What's the best way of checking the position and alignment of the b post? Hopefully the door will then fit ok! Thanks for another great video.
Is this on a CSW?
Mike
Britannica Restorations
Sorry yes it is.
I will try and do a video to explain some tricks
Mike
Can i do those bulkhead adjustments without removing anything else? My 110 1998 is pretty good beside the front doors that are off a bit, cant see to adjust it by the hinges, and i see my bulkhead is tilted backyards, tried pushing it foward as you showed in another video but didnt go much
Now i'm looking to try this, but dont have time or space to disassemble much
If you cannot set the door gaps you will have to tweak the bulkhead
What if I’m just under 34 and three-quarter? I put a new rear crossmember in and I thought I had everything perfect but I’m off by a 16th of an inch. Would that work?
Should be OK - maybe not much wriggle room
is the 34.75 inch desired door gap the same for a series 3 (88) by any chance?
Yeap!
What if its all back together... can you do this if you slacken the roof off?
possibly - if the roof liner is not in place
@@BritannicaRestorations no its not its all loose... The front corner of the door nearest the windscreen is touching...
also the rear side panel does not quite reach where the rubber trim goes either...
I have slacked everything off but tomorrow I am going to see how square it is in the corner like you showed :D
Great videos by the way
Fortune favours the bold! ( put please be careful! )
Will this method work for Td5/Puma 90s ?
yes
Fantastic!!! In relation to the tub the rear bar that fixes to the tub and crossmember on Td5/puma models how would you advise setting that bar as I know on earlier Land Rovers they have tabs welded to the crossmember that the tub bolts 2 ?
As a rule, the body (not the rear corners) should be flush with the vertical plane of the crossmember
Thank you really helpful advise. would you normally put the seatbox in after you have fitted the bulkhead?
I really hope the guy who owners my series before did not mess this up haha
But I think I will have to do it.... there are washers under the doorlocks so they work...
Ghost closed your door at some point
That will be Casper...
M
Good, casper understands that light saturation is a bad thing for videos :P
I know - I only find out after viewing
Still learning!
Mike