So far, I've only done this a few times, so I won't call myself an expert, but one hint that's helped me... Before you pull the core from the double braid, tie a loop knot into the double braid, six or eight feet from the end. I use an alpine butterfly knot. This will anchor the core to the cover, limiting how far down the compressed section of the cover will extend. When you're milking the cover back over the splice, the knot is how far down you need to stop. And you can slip the knot over something solid, I've used benchdogs on my workbench and I've used door knobs, that you can use to anchor the rope while you try to milk the cover. Grabbing the unlaced strand of the cover, releasing the core entirely, and leaning into the pull with the rope anchored at that knot can get the cover through those tight spots where simply pushing on the cover doesn't work.
haha. I just did that. I couldn't get the cover in. I could hardly get the dacron core into the dyneema. So I just whipped the cover to the dyneema, Looks like shit and there's a speed bump where the cover ends.
after watching this vid several times, i followed the procedures to splice 1/4 dyneema halyard to 1/2 double braid, and all went as scripted until it was time to cover the splice...no way. i wore the skin off my very strong hands but could NOT get the cover over the splice... i tried 1/4 dyneema to 9/16 double braid and SAME problem!! i gave up exasperated and had to work 18” of cover to the OTHER END of the line and cut it off so i could simply stitch the cover as close to the splice as possible. absolutely DID NOT work for me as in the video...nearly cost me hundreds of dollars in line.
The strength of double braid comes from the core *and* the cover. That means that splicing the cover into the dyneema is not cosmetic, it’s structural! You’re getting half the strength you started with
How strong is this splice? Could I use this technique to taper a furling line, small enough to fit round the drum but the other end big enough for ease of handling?
I would love to see a chart of what diameters are compatible for this. I followed the instructions trying to splice three eights inch stay set onto quarter inch dyneema and everything went well until the final step. There is no way the union is going to go inside the cover on the stay set. It’s way too tight. If I go one size down on the dyneema will it be big enough to bury the staset core?
Premium Ropes Some of us don’t have a broad selection of ropes to choose from and experiment with. So a chart of some of the major rope brands, types, and their dimensions compatible with this splice would be an awesome contribution. Many of us live in places where we have to order on the Internet and trial and error is a laborious and expensive and slow process.
That depends on the specs of both ropes, you take the minimum working load you require for both ropes. The double braided rope could then be even thicker depending on what works wel in blocks, clutches, winches or in hands.
I made this for Europe class boat. Polyester 10 mm and dyneema 5 mm. Unfortunately, after first test - end of cover start coming out from dyneema. Photo on link ibb.co/BKsF69v . Would you please advice hot to fit or prevent this.
Hi Vanja, This happens when the single braid is quite "openly" braided. You can either make a 2nd whipping on the single braid few cm before the cover in the rope ends OR do this with a more tightly braided single braid rope.
This is mostly used to replace the steel wire precursor for a Dyneema version. Steel wire and polyester is a combination often found on large cruising yachts.
This is merely used as lead for halyards (instead of steelwire leads). For runner tails on larger yachts, we would recommend www.premiumropes.com/d-core with extra Technora Cover added for on the winches www.premiumropes.com/technora-cover This is the technique to add the cover: th-cam.com/video/hnIp-Uzlpqs/w-d-xo.html Best to email us if you'd like more detailed advice.
You say to finish with a stitched whipping, but run through the process too fast to follow. You have another video on how to do a stitched whipping. You should have included a link: th-cam.com/video/O4EPIaW60fE/w-d-xo.html
So far, I've only done this a few times, so I won't call myself an expert, but one hint that's helped me...
Before you pull the core from the double braid, tie a loop knot into the double braid, six or eight feet from the end. I use an alpine butterfly knot.
This will anchor the core to the cover, limiting how far down the compressed section of the cover will extend. When you're milking the cover back over the splice, the knot is how far down you need to stop.
And you can slip the knot over something solid, I've used benchdogs on my workbench and I've used door knobs, that you can use to anchor the rope while you try to milk the cover. Grabbing the unlaced strand of the cover, releasing the core entirely, and leaning into the pull with the rope anchored at that knot can get the cover through those tight spots where simply pushing on the cover doesn't work.
Hi Jeff, that's handy extra suggestion thanks! We do this indeed for every splice before we start.
That was an excellent demo
Good video even without any audio....
Can I use this splice for a jib sheet?
Will it cause any problems if I wind it with a winch?
Sure you kan use it. Make sure the single braid Dyneema is not on the winch.
You forget to mention that it's impossible to splice 8mm double braid to 4mm dyneema. The cover is just far too tight to do the last step.
haha. I just did that. I couldn't get the cover in. I could hardly get the dacron core into the dyneema. So I just whipped the cover to the dyneema, Looks like shit and there's a speed bump where the cover ends.
How about 6mm dyneema into 12mm double braid? Could that work?
after watching this vid several times, i followed the procedures to splice 1/4 dyneema halyard to 1/2 double braid, and all went as scripted until it was time to cover the splice...no way. i wore the skin off my very strong hands but could NOT get the cover over the splice...
i tried 1/4 dyneema to 9/16 double braid and SAME problem!!
i gave up exasperated and had to work 18” of cover to the OTHER END of the line and cut it off so i could simply stitch the cover as close to the splice as possible.
absolutely DID NOT work for me as in the video...nearly cost me hundreds of dollars in line.
The strength of double braid comes from the core *and* the cover. That means that splicing the cover into the dyneema is not cosmetic, it’s structural! You’re getting half the strength you started with
agreed, zero chance the cover is going into the smaller dyneema. I tried 6mm double braid to 4mm dyneema. not happening.
Can I use the same technique to join a singlebraid Dyneema rope with a doublebraid polyester rope w/ Dyneema core?
Yes, This is possible.
Could you make the same video but Joining a double braid Dyneema rope with double braid polyester?
How strong is this splice? Could I use this technique to taper a furling line, small enough to fit round the drum but the other end big enough for ease of handling?
This is quite strong. Shouldnt be a problem for the furling line. The rope does however become less flexibel at the splice.
I would love to see a chart of what diameters are compatible for this. I followed the instructions trying to splice three eights inch stay set onto quarter inch dyneema and everything went well until the final step. There is no way the union is going to go inside the cover on the stay set. It’s way too tight. If I go one size down on the dyneema will it be big enough to bury the staset core?
For every type of rope and brand the charts and sizes are different. You could indeed try a different diameter to make it work.
Premium Ropes Some of us don’t have a broad selection of ropes to choose from and experiment with. So a chart of some of the major rope brands, types, and their dimensions compatible with this splice would be an awesome contribution. Many of us live in places where we have to order on the Internet and trial and error is a laborious and expensive and slow process.
Excellent video, but how much bigger diameter should be double braid rope be than the Dyneema?
That depends on the specs of both ropes, you take the minimum working load you require for both ropes. The double braided rope could then be even thicker depending on what works wel in blocks, clutches, winches or in hands.
why not do a locking brummel on the cover as well?
This is possible but it will be less smooth.
I made this for Europe class boat. Polyester 10 mm and dyneema 5 mm. Unfortunately, after first test - end of cover start coming out from dyneema. Photo on link ibb.co/BKsF69v . Would you please advice hot to fit or prevent this.
Hi Vanja, This happens when the single braid is quite "openly" braided. You can either make a 2nd whipping on the single braid few cm before the cover in the rope ends OR do this with a more tightly braided single braid rope.
What can you do with that. Like what is the sole purpose for that? Splice.....
This is mostly used to replace the steel wire precursor for a Dyneema version. Steel wire and polyester is a combination often found on large cruising yachts.
is this possible to do with access to only one end of the Dyneema?
Yes that is possible.
Is this the splice for creating runner tails on larger yachts?
This is merely used as lead for halyards (instead of steelwire leads). For runner tails on larger yachts, we would recommend
www.premiumropes.com/d-core with extra Technora Cover added for on the winches www.premiumropes.com/technora-cover
This is the technique to add the cover: th-cam.com/video/hnIp-Uzlpqs/w-d-xo.html
Best to email us if you'd like more detailed advice.
You say to finish with a stitched whipping, but run through the process too fast to follow.
You have another video on how to do a stitched whipping. You should have included a link:
th-cam.com/video/O4EPIaW60fE/w-d-xo.html