I understand some of the hate the cruiser gets, but I love mine nonetheless. Thank you for being one of the few that are posting repair videos for the cruiser!!!
Thanks I always appreciate comments like yours. I fell in love with the looks of the PT from day one and then when I finally drove on for the first time in 2013 I fell in love with the driving experience as well. I’m still confused why anyone really hates them, I guess we are all different. Glad you’re enjoying the videos, more PT content to come.
@@CarswithNashI too loved the styling since they came out, stumbled upon a manual transmission 2004 touring last week and saved it from being parted out. First time in/around one and I like it more each time. Unfortunately there's some rust, worst is on right side rocker in front of rear wheel. It's been through 6 owners in the past 3 years throwing parts at it to fix a poor running condition and gauges going out. Your videos have been awesome and my go to for this car. Already cleaned every ground, replaced ignition switch and it seems like it's probably the PCM that is faulty and causing the drivability problems. I'm from NY and grew up with rusty cars, so I do my best to avoid them. One of the perks of living in Georgia is land of the rust free cars, such a shame to see all the non wrecked no rust cars that get scrapped at the junk yards. Welding is one of the arts I haven't been able to master and keep telling myself I just need to accept the rust and enjoy the car for what it is without trying to fix it even though I really like the car
@rickc303 I hear you, cars rust away pretty fast where I live, so you have to appreciate them even with some rust on them as long as they still drive nice that's what really matters. Glad you have found my videos helpful. Thank you for the feedback.
Very good video and explanation. Your initial subjective check for a worn Watt's link bearing (tugging on the rear fender opening) could be misleading if the rear wheel bearing end play is excessive.
Hi Matt, Another great video of yours.. thank you! Do you happen to still have the Moog Part numbers? I'm getting mixed up between rear lateral links and rear control arm & ball joint. I just want to make sure I order the right parts :)
I was thinking an air ratchet or electric ratchet would be perfect for the second (passenger) lateral link. I will be doing this job later today on my 04 PT. Have a rear end clunk, looked at the ball joints back there and the boots are all damaged so replacing them all. I am wondering since I am replacing the linkages and the watts link in the center if I need to remove the ball joints or just take out the center bolt, and the two side bolts in the lateral links, and take it out as an assembly. I will then put it all together like you did in the video. I may be foolish but I don’t have the ball joint tool.
Yes that works for sure, I did it like this for the video because most of the time it is just the actual Watts link, The lateral links normally go for 2 or 3 watts links before they wear out in my experience.
@@CarswithNash this is actually the first time for both the watts link and the lateral links on this PT at over 260k. There are advantages to living in California.
@@halo3603 Yeah the undercarriages actually hold up really good on them, I’m in the rust belt here and normally they don’t rust underneath near as bad as the other cars I see.
I'm not actually sure what that measurement is referring to? Would that be the amount the jaw opens? In any case I've only ever seen the one size of these, they are made by multiple brands, but they are always pretty similar in how they work.
I guess it’s possible, but I haven’t heard one do that. More likely it might be the rubber bushing on the end of the lateral links, you could remove them and put some silicone spray in the bushings, then reassemble, that should fix it.
Haha! So you’re right, I’m not always the best at pronouncing things... However I bought those parts from Rockauto, we don’t have Advance Auto in Canada.
@@CarswithNash I used to work with a guy that called it Mug. He knew it wasn't the right way to say it. The box with the red sticker and barcode is an Advance sticker. I put several of those on parts I used to send back to the warehouse. You do have Advance Auto is Canada. It's called Carquest.
@@aw738 I can’t honestly recall seeing a Carquest anywhere either...🤷♂️ I might’ve actually got the links from Amazon, they were definitely ordered online that’s all I know.
Allan-Christine Hart It’s called a tie rod separator, this one is a “Powerbuilt” I bought from Canadian Tire years ago, but they are made by many brands, should be pretty easy to find from a local parts store or tool store.
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
I understand some of the hate the cruiser gets, but I love mine nonetheless. Thank you for being one of the few that are posting repair videos for the cruiser!!!
Thanks I always appreciate comments like yours. I fell in love with the looks of the PT from day one and then when I finally drove on for the first time in 2013 I fell in love with the driving experience as well. I’m still confused why anyone really hates them, I guess we are all different. Glad you’re enjoying the videos, more PT content to come.
@@CarswithNashI too loved the styling since they came out, stumbled upon a manual transmission 2004 touring last week and saved it from being parted out. First time in/around one and I like it more each time. Unfortunately there's some rust, worst is on right side rocker in front of rear wheel. It's been through 6 owners in the past 3 years throwing parts at it to fix a poor running condition and gauges going out. Your videos have been awesome and my go to for this car. Already cleaned every ground, replaced ignition switch and it seems like it's probably the PCM that is faulty and causing the drivability problems.
I'm from NY and grew up with rusty cars, so I do my best to avoid them. One of the perks of living in Georgia is land of the rust free cars, such a shame to see all the non wrecked no rust cars that get scrapped at the junk yards. Welding is one of the arts I haven't been able to master and keep telling myself I just need to accept the rust and enjoy the car for what it is without trying to fix it even though I really like the car
@rickc303 I hear you, cars rust away pretty fast where I live, so you have to appreciate them even with some rust on them as long as they still drive nice that's what really matters. Glad you have found my videos helpful. Thank you for the feedback.
Super clear instruction. Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks 🍺🍺😊🤘
Thanks Matt! I just finished doing my PT and your video helped for sure 😎
Very good video and explanation. Your initial subjective check for a worn Watt's link bearing (tugging on the rear fender opening) could be misleading if the rear wheel bearing end play is excessive.
Did this today! Nice video
Thanks!(-:
Thanks
Thanks matt very cool
Gregory Sanford Happy to help!(-:
great video. Wish I had a lift. Getting too old to crawl under. PTs are low and mine has adjustable shocks and springs.
Hi Matt, Another great video of yours.. thank you! Do you happen to still have the Moog Part numbers? I'm getting mixed up between rear lateral links and rear control arm & ball joint. I just want to make sure I order the right parts :)
Moog Watts Link
www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k700517
Amazon knockoff price 30% less:
www.amazon.com/Moog-K700517-Track-Bar/dp/B00CE3P82Q
O'Reilly has it:
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/moog/moog-watts-link/moo0/k700517/
I was thinking an air ratchet or electric ratchet would be perfect for the second (passenger) lateral link. I will be doing this job later today on my 04 PT. Have a rear end clunk, looked at the ball joints back there and the boots are all damaged so replacing them all.
I am wondering since I am replacing the linkages and the watts link in the center if I need to remove the ball joints or just take out the center bolt, and the two side bolts in the lateral links, and take it out as an assembly. I will then put it all together like you did in the video. I may be foolish but I don’t have the ball joint tool.
Yes that works for sure, I did it like this for the video because most of the time it is just the actual Watts link, The lateral links normally go for 2 or 3 watts links before they wear out in my experience.
@@CarswithNash this is actually the first time for both the watts link and the lateral links on this PT at over 260k. There are advantages to living in California.
Thanks for the content.
Keep up the good work.
בס'ד
All years are not the same,was changed mid 07 ,bell crank was slightly different after .Get the one for your model year.
Getting ready to do mine.
Good luck! It’s a pretty easy job, especially if your car isn’t rusty.
@@CarswithNash I am in Flint, the car has been here at least since 06. It isn't as bad as I thought. Actually looks like it was sealed at the factory
@@halo3603 Yeah the undercarriages actually hold up really good on them, I’m in the rust belt here and normally they don’t rust underneath near as bad as the other cars I see.
@@halo3603 0iiibbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Poor Cruiser had a rotted out engine cradle. As well as the water pump going out on it again. Went to PT Heaven...
Great video! Is the nut specs same for a 02 PT cruiser?
Shinryu101 Should be yes.
Hey Matt, for the tie rod remover you used on the lateral links, what size was it? Harbor freight has a 3/4" one, just not sure if that'd fit.
I'm not actually sure what that measurement is referring to? Would that be the amount the jaw opens? In any case I've only ever seen the one size of these, they are made by multiple brands, but they are always pretty similar in how they work.
Do these squeak I've got a squeaking and some kind of knock sometimes but it squeaks ..I've put new shocks on my 01 limited ..??
I guess it’s possible, but I haven’t heard one do that. More likely it might be the rubber bushing on the end of the lateral links, you could remove them and put some silicone spray in the bushings, then reassemble, that should fix it.
Think of a cow mooing when you say Moog. Not Mog. I also know where you bought those. Advance Auto.
Haha! So you’re right, I’m not always the best at pronouncing things... However I bought those parts from Rockauto, we don’t have Advance Auto in Canada.
@@CarswithNash I used to work with a guy that called it Mug. He knew it wasn't the right way to say it. The box with the red sticker and barcode is an Advance sticker. I put several of those on parts I used to send back to the warehouse. You do have Advance Auto is Canada. It's called Carquest.
@@aw738 I can’t honestly recall seeing a Carquest anywhere either...🤷♂️ I might’ve actually got the links from Amazon, they were definitely ordered online that’s all I know.
Is there an alignment adjustment on the rear axle?
There is not. The only way you can adjust the rear wheel alignment is by adding shims behind the hub where it mounts to the axle.
Thank you. Was seeing just the bushing kit for sale for the watts link. Wonder what you think?
I’m going to say that it would be nice to know the tools name and we’re we’re one could find one? Thanks again for the information
Allan-Christine Hart It’s called a tie rod separator, this one is a “Powerbuilt” I bought from Canadian Tire years ago, but they are made by many brands, should be pretty easy to find from a local parts store or tool store.
Matt's Garage Thanks for the reply, it means a lot. Found one already at Harbor Freight. Looks like it should make the repair a lot smoother.
🥂👀👍👍
Here I is.
Good stuff.
MostlymoparIH Thanks, really appreciate your support Martin! You have yourself a Merry Christmas!(-: