What should we do with a 2-stroke powered cabover truck? 🤔 EDIT: We appreciate the ongoing technical discussion about low ash 40w oil being best for these engines. Interesting stuff! Maybe we'll do a follow up video on that.
Just a note on the old Detroit 2 smokes. If you're going to run it under load they need straight 40 oil. Multi grades will cause piston scuffing. Ring up Shell for a barrel of straight 40. Yes they leak as much as they burn.
I've always had an affinity for cabover designs for some reason. I'm also an Isuzu addict and have picked up a few NPR's relatively recently for the 4BD1T to resell. The truck is a solid little flatbed with sides so I've just been driving it around to pick up random stuff. It's funny how fast everyone around suddenly needs something moved when driving either the flatbed or the newer box truck. It's a whole new level of "the moment you get a truck every friend wants help moving their stuff."
Wrong, non detergent is to never be used in a 2 stroke ever! where you say multi grade is acceptable, I can show you an example where it’s very wrong. The military has 2 strokes still in use, at one time they had a LOT. Well, Detroit specifically told them straight 40, and they ignored it for logistical purposes (the can’t be stocking lots of different fluids, so they stock 15w40 diesel oil, dex transmission fluid, 85w90 gear oil) and continue to run multi grade in their 2 strokes, and they fail with less than 10,000 miles quite frequently. When we say a 2 stroke needs straight 40, we aren’t talking of “old school, non detergent oil”, we’re still speaking of a modern oil with detergents and such light years advances of 1960s oils, but it won’t shear down and destroy this engine like multi-grade will.
Did anyone remember having an engine that needed 24 volt starter and charged with a 12-14 volt alt? It is called a "series parralle switch. Alt charged 2 sets of batt at 14 volts. When starting circuit is engaged the switch opened and released one set of batt from charging and closed switch to make 24 volt for starting. Enjoy
My friend, I am an Arab, I work in Turkey as a mechanic and I have good experience in restoring old trucks to their previous era, developing engines and adding an automatic gearbox
11:20 can confirm that you have to wait for the truck to air up before the engine stop will work. Scared the piss outta me first time I had to reach in there and pull the rack closed by hand when I couldn't figure out why the switch in the cab wasn't working. 🤣
As a child of the 70s and 80s, I remember seeing all these old-school trucks on the highways. My Dad was a big fan of country music, especially trucker music. It's cool to see old trucks getting some love, even if they're not as efficient or comfortable as modern trucks. I work for NAPA, and the amount of Shell Rotella 15W40 I've sold (T4, T5, and T6) is insane! We had a stretch last year where T5 and T6 were backordered.
Before I retired in 2018 we had switched almost all of our old starters, that would give you a hernia, with new cast aluminum gear reduction starters you could carry with one hand. If only they had had them for the 45 years plus I was a heavy duty mechanic. I lost count of how many DD engines I rebuilt from a bare block and when you first start the assembly it looks like you haven't even put a dent in all the parts. I was so glad when they came out with the DDEC around 1988.
I would love to see you guys fix it up. Maybe get the interior looking like it was meant to in 79. I wouldn't paint it though, i like the way it looks now. Those old Detroits sound so good!
IMO don't dump excess money into this thing, weld the worst of the rust, put in seats that has cushions, clean it up a bit, do what's needed to get it road worthy (and safe) and then thats it, use it for hauling heavy stuff now and again, and if a buyer comes along that wants to fully restore it = Sell.
@@austinhales1807 the frame is a write off and there is no chance you can repair it with the rust situation. rather buy a truck thats salvagable then throwing infinite dollars on this rig. given the condition of the truck it still baffles me they bought it
@@austinhales1807 ? I'm all for breathing fresh life into this truck, what about that is quitting? I'm already being optimistic here, the 10-20k its gonna cost to make it ok'ish again can be spent elsewhere. They know it, we know it, you know it. What little I proposed is probably already way above and beyond what they have planned for it anyway.
Shells the best. Dads Jeep runs on Rotella and so does mine! We have stroked 4.0L! They’re now 4.7L in-line 6s with side super charger. They’re our rock crawlers. Shell hasn’t let us down yet!
All the old guys always told me to check the bunk in a cabover before tilting the cab. That way a CB ratio or somthing doesn't fall forward and break the windshield.
Back in the day I had everything secured so that thecab could be tilted. The cradle of straps I had holding my T.V. in place was particularly inpressive.
Great job keeping up with the gloves!!! Since your video where you talked about that I have been trying to wear gloves at the shop, my hands are constantly covered in 20-30 cuts and then they get filled with abrasive dust. Gloves are a bit hard to get used to though! Better than having to amputate a finger or even worse a hand because it gets infected!
I had to leave my '72 Chevy Titan in Georgia when I moved to Arizona. I gave it to a good friend. I hope to find a cabover here in Arizona that I can bring back to life. Nice work!
You HAVE to use straight 40 weight low ash content oil in Detroit two-stroke engines. I like Rotella 15W40 too - but I don’t use it in my screamer. It will screw them up royally. Just a heads-up.
OMG, you just brought back many memories of my youth. In the '70s, I worked for a moving company to pay for school/university, drove a cab-over Jimmy just like in this video, with a screaming Detroit Diesel. Glad you found a red truck (red has more horsepower)! I also use Shell Rotella T6 in my motorcycle, it is known fact that the specs for full synthetic diesel oil has the proper specs to run most Japanese motorcycles. Rotella is much cheaper than the synthetic name brands for motorcycles. Rich, another fun video, thank you!
now this was truly great! i love the old jimmys and i used to drive a 78 astro. im glad you got this old girl running rich! save her! not too many 2 strokes left! great job as always sir! 👌
@@Hanzyscure No. he’s talking about pulling the whole truck and then putting it in gear and dropping the clutch. That way it can spin the engine over much faster. Starter will spin it at a few hundred rpm. Pulling it and dropping the clutch can spin it at a thousand or so rpm.
Fuel, spark, air....in whatever order you want to check them, BEFORE chasing mechanical diagnosis. Been caught with similar situations over and over when I was younger; then an ol'timer (my best friends dad...40+ year mechanic) told me to NEVER assume anything. ALWAYS check those three before doing any other work. Now I'm the guy everyone calls when they can't get something running and I don't even work as a mechanic anymore (still hobby with muscle cars & trucks). Fun watching the video. All the way through from the start, I was saying out loud "check for fuel", friends looking at me weird. Then the ah-ha moment. So was the rattling when it was started due to the rod and crank bearings knocking from the oil being too thin? Using 15w40, rather than straight 40w? Great video. Easy to overlook something when your focus is elsewhere. I've learned a lot from your videos and appreciate your effort & hard work.
I'm 22 and after I crawl under the car for 14 hours il be sore as it gets rolling over slow in bed and the whole works this guys gotta be close to double as many moons as me and crawling under there with enthusiasm. I respect it
I used to sell parts in the early 2000's. It seems to me that we stocked all of 2 starters for logging trucks and equipment, 12v and 24v. The only other difference was just the clocking on the nose which was pretty easy to change when they were fresh from Dixie.
I grew up in one of those trucks. My dad owned one. When you showed the drivers compartment it brought back memories. Also who knew you needed fuel for the motor to start
I have one gripe about you. I always hear “ I’m not much of a Diesel mech but I get by.” Man ur one of the best MECHANICS I’ve ever seen. Why? Your not afraid to attempt anything your cautious but not afraid and when something does go wrong you learn why and research the problem WHILE FILMING. Not a lot of these guys out here do that they don’t want you to see them make mistakes and they edit a LOT OF THERE FILMING. You don’t.
The Army still uses the 6V-53 T & 8V-71 T in the M113A3's and M109A2's-M109A6's,the 8V-92 TA's aren't as common anymore in any Oshkosh trucks,all now use Caterpillars.
My Boss saw that truck for sale and wanted to buy it for his cab over collection, I talked him out of it. Glad I did or that would have been me working on it lol!!!
crown batteries. they're made in freemont ohio. ive used them exclusively over the last 8 years or so. We've had great luck. friends of mine have as well. had one in a bobcat that was held in place with a bungee and wobbled and bounced like a sonovabitch and that lasted over 6 and a half years. prices are very reasonable too.
Gotta use straight weight 30 for cold or 40 for warm or otherwise you’ll break your top two compression rings on your pistons and wear your cylinder walls faster.
Just wondering why would a multi-viscosity oil that is within the reccomended range not protect the engine better? Granted it is an older engine.. but wouldn't the same theory still apply?
To make it simple and not write a paragraph 2 strokes have a power stroke in every stroke and multi vis oils don’t have enough time to recover between strokes making the oil thinner creating more heat and friction creating more wear in your cylinder walls and the heat makes typically the top compression ring extremely brittle breaking it quite easily.
@@benl1053 interesting. It just seems odd that something like a 15-40 would not do the same job as a 40. But like you pointed out, a 2 stoke of larger displacement is a different ballgame. I'm no expert but a multi viscosity oil's advantage is that it performs like a lighter vis at cold temp, yes? If that is correct, is it that property which makes a multi-vis have a longer recovery time as you put it when compared to the single viscosity of same weight? Genuinely interested and trying to wrap my head around the concept is why I ask. Thanks!
Is that “rattling” in the valve train? Yep once you got her spinning fast and it did not light, had to be fuel...Lots of work having that much fun, thank you for the entertainment.
God I love this truck. It reminds me of the old International roll back that my pap used to haul equipment with. Like 80 hp with a two speed rear single axle. I would sleep in the floor boards during winter to keep warm. :) the 80s were dangerous. Lol
Drive move one just like it from IL to Florida with 44k lbs of toilets back in 1983 when my son was a baby. We strapped his car carrier to the doghouse. Loved that old truck
@@DEBOSSGARAGE Family lore from waaaay back in the day (probably 1970s, before my time) is my Grandpa had a brand new 8v in the shop that would just barely crank fast enough to get running and then ran like garbage once it did. One of the exhaust manifolds was completely obstructed from the factory. They never cut the port holes in it. Took them like an entire week to find that problem.
@@bertgrau9246 Bought an old international diesel tractor. Ran ok at sellers. When I got it and changed fluids and filters, I struggled getting air filter cover off. When I did it was solid mouse nest around entire barrel of the filter. Not sure how it even was breathing. I mean like packed in hard mud these mice did this. She definitely felt differently after the clean up and new filter
More please! Europe runs cabovers. I was surprised to see almost every rig in Italy was a cab over and most of them were stunning. Please go forth with this fascinating Detroit powered cab over.
2 thoughts on batteries, 1: they are all made in the same few plants, so buy by the pound, heavier = better. 2: Especially in a yarding truck mount your batteries perpendicular to the direction of travel so the plates are not pushing against each other with inertia.
Actually, lighter is better in the same footprint. It's counter intuutive but a heavier battery will have thinker plates and likely be rated at a higher cold cranking Amp discharge value. The thicker plates mean less room between them. The lead and lead dioxide create dendrites or spike like crystals protruding from them during the reaction into lead sulfide (during discharge). What can happen is that some of these dendrites break off and fall to the bottom of the battery. If they accumulate enough, they can bridge the plates shorting a cell out. With thicker plates and less room, is takes less of these crystals that broke free to cause that. So if you have two batteries the same size, one with a larger cranking amp rating (larger plates and heavier), it has a higher potential of earlier failure than the one with a lower rating and smaller plates (more space between the plates). It's just a matter of if the rating is high enough for your needs. Bigger isn't always better.
@@sumduma55 more surface area = more cranking amps, not plate thickness. so a battery with many thin plates very close = high cranking amps, thin plates with many spaces between them would make a lighter battery than a few heavier plates.
@@gregdawson1909 I'm not sure that is the case in practice but it's a value not worth arguing over. I used to recondition batteries out of heavy trucks and equipment before the EPA and NFA regulations (yes, along with the health hazards of working with lead and sulfuric acid, you would nitrate the solution to create a lead nitrate which can be used in some explosives) made it near impossible to do cost effectively. But that was in the late 80s and early to mid 90s. Technology had changed quite a bit even while doing that. Back then, the plates were designed with a cross hatch type lattice structure with peaks and valleys to maximize the surface area. The cold cranking amps were directly tied to the size of these peaks and valleys as that is what increased the surface area for the chemical reactions. Either way, it is unimportant in the end as in both cases described, the end result is less room between cells allowing them to short more easily. That is of course working in the constraints of the same size encasement package of a battery with a lower cranking amp rating.
Lol! This was great, I’ve run 24v through an old heavy duty 12v starter before to get old/ cold equipment fired up…. It’s awesome how they suddenly crank like there’s no tomorrow!🤣🤣🤣 greetings from Scotland!🏴
Detroits were renowned for starting problems due to air in the lines. We used to use a rag and airline and pressurise the tank to force the fuel through after fuel filter replacement.
The hole truck including the alternator is 12v system put uses some relays and black magic to get 24v at the starter just why cranking by rewiring the battery's to 2 parallel in a series for 24volts
That thing is like Optimus Prime's wayward cousin that just can't get right. Down on his luck, hasn't worked in years, falling to pieces, and now has a drinking problem. Somewhere there's probably a cute little 6v71 transit bus that left him in the dust for a fancier rig. There always is...
Rich Love what you do Cannot believe you don’t carry a piece of cardboard with you to crawl underneath all the things you crawl under Easier on the knees and back and to find the dropped nuts and bolts Thanks for the channel
@@44R0Ndin armatures rarely burn out normally its brushes or solinoid that go, ive only seen 1 bad armature and thats cos it went swimming in salt water... did not like that at all
Love watching your show I think it’s hilarious every time you tinker with something it fights you tooth and nail I feel your pain bud every time I try and tinker
Working on a firetruck with a two stroke detroit last week that wouldn't start... really helps when there's a fuse in the position for the fuel solenoid shutoff
I once rigged up a 6 71 to run on the shop floor and could change the speed of the engine by raising an lowering the can of fuel. Two strokes have a very high rate of fuel return and are sensitive to fuel pressure.
The first truck I drove was a White cab over with air assessed power steering. Normally aspirated, Cummins engine. Ten speed road ranger. What a dog, still I loved that tractor. I live in Minnesota where it used to be cold in the winter, it had a heater core under the drivers seat, 24 volt positive ground electrical. You possibly have the funnest channel on the TH-cam. I forgot it had a compression relief handle left side of steering wheel.
What should we do with a 2-stroke powered cabover truck? 🤔
EDIT: We appreciate the ongoing technical discussion about low ash 40w oil being best for these engines. Interesting stuff! Maybe we'll do a follow up video on that.
straight pipe tf out of it an full send down a street at the speed limit
Put about $250,000 US into it and give it to whistlindiesel
That engine requires a straight 40 weight oil, they do not like 15w40
Maybe restore the truck or use it as a tow pig for the fleet of vehicles?
@@alexhopkins3614 beat me to it
You fellers really gotta adopt the "dual wield" Cosby sauce method! Works everytime!
fuck yes i was thinking wheres the fucking ether
Peg!
A man that knows the Cosby sauce right there 👌
Fog it till she's ether-locking and then back it..... ah fuck, give'er both cans full tilt!
Yeah and if it catches on fire, you just piss it out and tell everyone the smell is from the rats.
Fuck me girls fuckin ZIP TIES N BIAS PLIES gets me hard ❤️
Just a note on the old Detroit 2 smokes.
If you're going to run it under load they need straight 40 oil. Multi grades will cause piston scuffing.
Ring up Shell for a barrel of straight 40. Yes they leak as much as they burn.
I love them the more I learn about them, just a giant fucking chainsaw
Hey Rich, you picked the one diesel engine that can't use Rotella 15W-40. Those 2 strokes need straight 40 weight "low ash" oil.
I was thinking the same thing
I will third that motion
Wait really?
I'll 4th it. Straight 40 Rotella
I’ll 5th it. We use Delo straight 40w
I've always had an affinity for cabover designs for some reason. I'm also an Isuzu addict and have picked up a few NPR's relatively recently for the 4BD1T to resell. The truck is a solid little flatbed with sides so I've just been driving it around to pick up random stuff. It's funny how fast everyone around suddenly needs something moved when driving either the flatbed or the newer box truck. It's a whole new level of "the moment you get a truck every friend wants help moving their stuff."
"Tough Times Don't Last Tough People Do" was the quote of the entire video right there How Ironic!
SAW ONE OF THESE HERE IN EASTERN CONNECTICUT 1980 ONE
STILL GOES IT WAS A TAN ONE NICE TRUCK BETTER THAN THE PLASTIC JUNKS TODAY
30 weight non detergent in those Detroit’s. No multi weight oil.
More likes!! they need to see this before they cause issues..
The correct oil to use in the old Detroit two strokes is 40 weight CF2 low ash. and it does have a detergent package.
@@johndonahue1935 I'm suprised Shell gave them the 15W40 for a 2 cycle Detroit.
They just supplied him the oil and asked him to do the vid he says at the start he bought it after their offer
Wrong, non detergent is to never be used in a 2 stroke ever!
where you say multi grade is acceptable, I can show you an example where it’s very wrong. The military has 2 strokes still in use, at one time they had a LOT. Well, Detroit specifically told them straight 40, and they ignored it for logistical purposes (the can’t be stocking lots of different fluids, so they stock 15w40 diesel oil, dex transmission fluid, 85w90 gear oil) and continue to run multi grade in their 2 strokes, and they fail with less than 10,000 miles quite frequently.
When we say a 2 stroke needs straight 40, we aren’t talking of “old school, non detergent oil”, we’re still speaking of a modern oil with detergents and such light years advances of 1960s oils, but it won’t shear down and destroy this engine like multi-grade will.
New drinking game, take a shot every time you change the batteries 😂😂😂
You won't see the end than
Did anyone remember having an engine that needed 24 volt starter and charged with a 12-14 volt alt?
It is called a "series parralle switch. Alt charged 2 sets of batt at 14 volts. When starting circuit is engaged the switch opened and released one set of batt from charging and closed switch to make 24 volt for starting. Enjoy
I've seen a handful starter gets really upset when that bugger hangs on only on old fire trucks
Mercedes Benz little Service Trucks 809, 811 in Germany the UPS Rides These Trucks! These Trucks have a Relais under the Driver Seat.
Diesel Creek's Autocar has that setup too.
Yep, just threw away the thing, off of my 1986 KW.
Yes I remember the damn 12 to 24 solenoids. One of the worst ideas to hit the market. Nothing but trouble.
2-strokes use straight 40w oil only, not a multi grade.
Was just about to post this, good catch
Yup I work on these engines every day. Big no no.
Yeah he is rocking the wrong oil. Sae 30 during the winter I there I’m assuming
Yes!
I hope he sees this
Anyone struggling with a project or goal should watch this video. You are an inspiration to never give up.
These are so cool! Rotobots, OXIDIZE!
On point sir!
Made me laugh.
My friend, I am an Arab, I work in Turkey as a mechanic and I have good experience in restoring old trucks to their previous era, developing engines and adding an automatic gearbox
11:20 can confirm that you have to wait for the truck to air up before the engine stop will work. Scared the piss outta me first time I had to reach in there and pull the rack closed by hand when I couldn't figure out why the switch in the cab wasn't working. 🤣
Hey Rich , your perseverance to nut out the problem on the GMC truck is why you are a Good Mechanic
Hard to beat the sound of a straight pipe screamin' jimmy
As a child of the 70s and 80s, I remember seeing all these old-school trucks on the highways. My Dad was a big fan of country music, especially trucker music. It's cool to see old trucks getting some love, even if they're not as efficient or comfortable as modern trucks. I work for NAPA, and the amount of Shell Rotella 15W40 I've sold (T4, T5, and T6) is insane! We had a stretch last year where T5 and T6 were backordered.
Before I retired in 2018 we had switched almost all of our old starters, that would give you a hernia, with new cast aluminum gear reduction starters you could carry with one hand. If only they had had them for the 45 years plus I was a heavy duty mechanic. I lost count of how many DD engines I rebuilt from a bare block and when you first start the assembly it looks like you haven't even put a dent in all the parts. I was so glad when they came out with the DDEC around 1988.
I would love to see you guys fix it up. Maybe get the interior looking like it was meant to in 79. I wouldn't paint it though, i like the way it looks now. Those old Detroits sound so good!
IMO don't dump excess money into this thing, weld the worst of the rust, put in seats that has cushions, clean it up a bit, do what's needed to get it road worthy (and safe) and then thats it, use it for hauling heavy stuff now and again, and if a buyer comes along that wants to fully restore it = Sell.
@@ToreDL87 you sound like a quitter.
@@austinhales1807 the frame is a write off and there is no chance you can repair it with the rust situation. rather buy a truck thats salvagable then throwing infinite dollars on this rig.
given the condition of the truck it still baffles me they bought it
@@austinhales1807 ? I'm all for breathing fresh life into this truck, what about that is quitting?
I'm already being optimistic here, the 10-20k its gonna cost to make it ok'ish again can be spent elsewhere.
They know it, we know it, you know it.
What little I proposed is probably already way above and beyond what they have planned for it anyway.
I just love your heart for bringing the dead back to life!! Tons of people would have given up almost right away. Same here! Great job!
Shells the best. Dads Jeep runs on Rotella and so does mine!
We have stroked 4.0L! They’re now 4.7L in-line 6s with side super charger. They’re our rock crawlers. Shell hasn’t let us down yet!
There is just something so soothing and relaxing about listening to a 2 stroke detroit diesel.
Still the most efficient way to turn diesel fuel into noise.
Brought back some memories. I worked a lot on 6V53's, 6V53T's and 8V71T's in the army.
All the old guys always told me to check the bunk in a cabover before tilting the cab. That way a CB ratio or somthing doesn't fall forward and break the windshield.
It's already broken.
Or last nights lot lizard.
I remember my dad doing that, in his case it was a thermos full of coffee. It went through the windshield like a bullet.
Even though cabovers are the norm here in Europe, every now and then, something will come flying out the windshield at the truckshops.
Back in the day I had everything secured so that thecab could be tilted. The cradle of straps I had holding my T.V. in place was particularly inpressive.
I use Shell Rotella in my car it's a old tired engine and it just loves the diesel oil and it makes me think I have good oil pressure LOL!
Great job keeping up with the gloves!!! Since your video where you talked about that I have been trying to wear gloves at the shop, my hands are constantly covered in 20-30 cuts and then they get filled with abrasive dust. Gloves are a bit hard to get used to though! Better than having to amputate a finger or even worse a hand because it gets infected!
Thanks man. I'm working my way up to wearing them more and more but getting used to it
@@DEBOSSGARAGE glad that finally found a set of gloves that works for you!
I bet your hands are feeling way better at the end of the day 😊
These were among the nicest looking trucks ever to me.
Would be cool to see the truck taken care of or a Detroit build on the channel. The TH-cam community loves those engines.
I had to leave my '72 Chevy Titan in Georgia when I moved to Arizona. I gave it to a good friend. I hope to find a cabover here in Arizona that I can bring back to life. Nice work!
You HAVE to use straight 40 weight low ash content oil in Detroit two-stroke engines. I like Rotella 15W40 too - but I don’t use it in my screamer. It will screw them up royally. Just a heads-up.
I think “Bus Grease Monkey” would concur…
OMG, you just brought back many memories of my youth. In the '70s, I worked for a moving company to pay for school/university, drove a cab-over Jimmy just like in this video, with a screaming Detroit Diesel. Glad you found a red truck (red has more horsepower)!
I also use Shell Rotella T6 in my motorcycle, it is known fact that the specs for full synthetic diesel oil has the proper specs to run most Japanese motorcycles. Rotella is much cheaper than the synthetic name brands for motorcycles.
Rich, another fun video, thank you!
Wrong oil, the two strokes require a CF2 oil which would be Rotella T1 SAE40 in this case....
Do you honestly think a Detroit cares? It should be happy peg leg isn't trying to start it!
Honestly, this is the first thing I thought of too. The Bus Grease Monkey would be disappointed.
@ Calvin Wright -
Keep her in the ketchup!.
Bus grease money disapproving noise intensifies
2 cans of ether later
I run interstate batteries in literally everything I drive, my car, my f250, my wife's car, my mom's car my lawnmower, my boat.... You get the idea
now this was truly great!
i love the old jimmys and i used to drive a 78 astro.
im glad you got this old girl running rich!
save her!
not too many 2 strokes left!
great job as always sir! 👌
I once worked in the GM Truck and Bus plant where this truck was built. I think the plant was demolished a few years ago.
Everyone: “Starter fluid”
Me, an intellectual: “Cosby in a can”
@Alex Gutierrez it’s AOC?! All this time I thought it was a horse...
Cosby sauce or consent in a can
I just call the stuff CC. Canned Coercion.
Sometimes pull starting is your best option. Thats' what I do... get that engine spinning.
Like a lawnmower ?
@@Hanzyscure No. he’s talking about pulling the whole truck and then putting it in gear and dropping the clutch. That way it can spin the engine over much faster. Starter will spin it at a few hundred rpm. Pulling it and dropping the clutch can spin it at a thousand or so rpm.
Fuel, spark, air....in whatever order you want to check them, BEFORE chasing mechanical diagnosis. Been caught with similar situations over and over when I was younger; then an ol'timer (my best friends dad...40+ year mechanic) told me to NEVER assume anything. ALWAYS check those three before doing any other work. Now I'm the guy everyone calls when they can't get something running and I don't even work as a mechanic anymore (still hobby with muscle cars & trucks). Fun watching the video. All the way through from the start, I was saying out loud "check for fuel", friends looking at me weird. Then the ah-ha moment.
So was the rattling when it was started due to the rod and crank bearings knocking from the oil being too thin? Using 15w40, rather than straight 40w?
Great video. Easy to overlook something when your focus is elsewhere. I've learned a lot from your videos and appreciate your effort & hard work.
lost me at spark
@@DEBOSSGARAGE whatever, applies to any combustion engine ....air, fuel , working source of ignition
I love that 2 stroke sound - glad you got it running.
What a Beaut! You can't beat the way an old 2 stroke Detroit screams.
Might need to swap on an air starter, and clear out the fuel line. Other than that, killer Detroit content.
Air start for the win.
I'm 22 and after I crawl under the car for 14 hours il be sore as it gets rolling over slow in bed and the whole works this guys gotta be close to double as many moons as me and crawling under there with enthusiasm. I respect it
This is my favorite TH-cam channel when it comes to automotive stuff I have learned so much from watching it keep up the good work
Thanks! Appreciate it
4:46 and one ground going to… you know the thing 😂😂
I used to sell parts in the early 2000's. It seems to me that we stocked all of 2 starters for logging trucks and equipment, 12v and 24v. The only other difference was just the clocking on the nose which was pretty easy to change when they were fresh from Dixie.
I grew up in one of those trucks. My dad owned one. When you showed the drivers compartment it brought back memories. Also who knew you needed fuel for the motor to start
heads up: Motomaster Diesel Oil is just Shell Rotella. Even says it on the bottle.
So is caterpillar branded oil for reference
I'd love to send a few bottles of each to a lab for a comparison test.
I have one gripe about you. I always hear “ I’m not much of a Diesel mech but I get by.” Man ur one of the best MECHANICS I’ve ever seen. Why? Your not afraid to attempt anything your cautious but not afraid and when something does go wrong you learn why and research the problem WHILE FILMING. Not a lot of these guys out here do that they don’t want you to see them make mistakes and they edit a LOT OF THERE FILMING. You don’t.
USCG is still using the 6v92t in the 47' motor life boat, thirsty, but they are tanks.
The Army still uses the 6V-53 T & 8V-71 T in the M113A3's and M109A2's-M109A6's,the 8V-92 TA's aren't as common anymore in any Oshkosh trucks,all now use Caterpillars.
My Boss saw that truck for sale and wanted to buy it for his cab over collection, I talked him out of it. Glad I did or that would have been me working on it lol!!!
It’s just scraping the rust off the inside of the cylinders. Keep crank’n, she’ll go😂😂
ya just give her ALL THE BEENZ
Yeah. All it needs now is a good freeing off round town and youre all good to go again :P
Send it
These are the jobs that I learn the most from. Love it.
Shell: What's it cost to have you try to run some old junk on our oil?
Rich: A pallet of that oil will do!
crown batteries. they're made in freemont ohio. ive used them exclusively over the last 8 years or so. We've had great luck. friends of mine have as well. had one in a bobcat that was held in place with a bungee and wobbled and bounced like a sonovabitch and that lasted over 6 and a half years. prices are very reasonable too.
“You know what? Let’s buy another one!”
I drove those babies back in early 80’s when I worked at Hertz rentals. Great tractor to start driving on.
Gotta use straight weight 30 for cold or 40 for warm or otherwise you’ll break your top two compression rings on your pistons and wear your cylinder walls faster.
Just wondering why would a multi-viscosity oil that is within the reccomended range not protect the engine better? Granted it is an older engine.. but wouldn't the same theory still apply?
To make it simple and not write a paragraph 2 strokes have a power stroke in every stroke and multi vis oils don’t have enough time to recover between strokes making the oil thinner creating more heat and friction creating more wear in your cylinder walls and the heat makes typically the top compression ring extremely brittle breaking it quite easily.
@@benl1053 interesting. It just seems odd that something like a 15-40 would not do the same job as a 40. But like you pointed out, a 2 stoke of larger displacement is a different ballgame. I'm no expert but a multi viscosity oil's advantage is that it performs like a lighter vis at cold temp, yes? If that is correct, is it that property which makes a multi-vis have a longer recovery time as you put it when compared to the single viscosity of same weight? Genuinely interested and trying to wrap my head around the concept is why I ask. Thanks!
Really digging that Eagle! Neighbor ran a ‘69 Transtar then had an Astro then a Titan. Great times.
Is that “rattling” in the valve train? Yep once you got her spinning fast and it did not light, had to be fuel...Lots of work having that much fun, thank you for the entertainment.
The sound of a Detroit 2 stroke and a Cat motor is the best thing for your ears. Pure music
God I love this truck. It reminds me of the old International roll back that my pap used to haul equipment with. Like 80 hp with a two speed rear single axle. I would sleep in the floor boards during winter to keep warm. :) the 80s were dangerous. Lol
The 80s were the best of times for me.
I used ride with my dad in a GMC Astro just like that. It was my favorite. That was back around 1970.
Runaway cabover blows hole through shop! Sounds like TH-cam gold to me. Surely that would pay for a new door and a few cinder blocks, eh?
My favourite vehicles as a kid were the general lee and these cab overs. They look so cool.
Thumbs up for Big Shiny Tunes 4!
One of the best CDs to grace our car stereos!
Drive move one just like it from IL to Florida with 44k lbs of toilets back in 1983 when my son was a baby. We strapped his car carrier to the doghouse. Loved that old truck
Do raccoons like exhaust manifolds?! 😳
My only conclusion to it wanting to spin fast and then stop... I could be wrong though
In Canakastan it’s pretty common!
Not sure about raccoons, but mice love those pipes, and mufflers
@@DEBOSSGARAGE Family lore from waaaay back in the day (probably 1970s, before my time) is my Grandpa had a brand new 8v in the shop that would just barely crank fast enough to get running and then ran like garbage once it did. One of the exhaust manifolds was completely obstructed from the factory. They never cut the port holes in it. Took them like an entire week to find that problem.
@@bertgrau9246 Bought an old international diesel tractor. Ran ok at sellers. When I got it and changed fluids and filters, I struggled getting air filter cover off. When I did it was solid mouse nest around entire barrel of the filter. Not sure how it even was breathing. I mean like packed in hard mud these mice did this. She definitely felt differently after the clean up and new filter
More please! Europe runs cabovers. I was surprised to see almost every rig in Italy was a cab over and most of them were stunning. Please go forth with this fascinating Detroit powered cab over.
2 thoughts on batteries, 1: they are all made in the same few plants, so buy by the pound, heavier = better. 2: Especially in a yarding truck mount your batteries perpendicular to the direction of travel so the plates are not pushing against each other with inertia.
Actually, lighter is better in the same footprint. It's counter intuutive but a heavier battery will have thinker plates and likely be rated at a higher cold cranking Amp discharge value. The thicker plates mean less room between them. The lead and lead dioxide create dendrites or spike like crystals protruding from them during the reaction into lead sulfide (during discharge).
What can happen is that some of these dendrites break off and fall to the bottom of the battery. If they accumulate enough, they can bridge the plates shorting a cell out. With thicker plates and less room, is takes less of these crystals that broke free to cause that.
So if you have two batteries the same size, one with a larger cranking amp rating (larger plates and heavier), it has a higher potential of earlier failure than the one with a lower rating and smaller plates (more space between the plates).
It's just a matter of if the rating is high enough for your needs. Bigger isn't always better.
That’s why I just get everstart in everything, Cletus McFarland has them in all of his vehicles
@@sumduma55 more surface area = more cranking amps, not plate thickness. so a battery with many thin plates very close = high cranking amps, thin plates with many spaces between them would make a lighter battery than a few heavier plates.
@@gregdawson1909 I'm not sure that is the case in practice but it's a value not worth arguing over. I used to recondition batteries out of heavy trucks and equipment before the EPA and NFA regulations (yes, along with the health hazards of working with lead and sulfuric acid, you would nitrate the solution to create a lead nitrate which can be used in some explosives) made it near impossible to do cost effectively. But that was in the late 80s and early to mid 90s. Technology had changed quite a bit even while doing that. Back then, the plates were designed with a cross hatch type lattice structure with peaks and valleys to maximize the surface area. The cold cranking amps were directly tied to the size of these peaks and valleys as that is what increased the surface area for the chemical reactions.
Either way, it is unimportant in the end as in both cases described, the end result is less room between cells allowing them to short more easily. That is of course working in the constraints of the same size encasement package of a battery with a lower cranking amp rating.
The BEST looking cabover semi tractor EVER!!!
That was real fun. Hope she get's some needed attention and a matching DG batch like the c10. Would love that.
We just got a 1980 IH 4300 out of the woods. 8v92 also. 24 volt system. What a thorn in the side....
Best year ever.....especially Valentines Day that year....ugh I'm old.
Lol! This was great, I’ve run 24v through an old heavy duty 12v starter before to get old/ cold equipment fired up…. It’s awesome how they suddenly crank like there’s no tomorrow!🤣🤣🤣 greetings from Scotland!🏴
wow, sponsored by shell?? I cant imagine they need any help selling oil but thats awesome! Great video btw
Detroits were renowned for starting problems due to air in the lines. We used to use a rag and airline and pressurise the tank to force the fuel through after fuel filter replacement.
The hole truck including the alternator is 12v system put uses some relays and black magic to get 24v at the starter just why cranking by rewiring the battery's to 2 parallel in a series for 24volts
That is common but there would be a dirty great big change over soliniod near the battery's amd extra battery leads
@@fowletm1992 yep and it was a parts truck in a field somebody likely took it
Some people like going to the opera or concerts... I listen to old engines come back to life
That thing is like Optimus Prime's wayward cousin that just can't get right. Down on his luck, hasn't worked in years, falling to pieces, and now has a drinking problem.
Somewhere there's probably a cute little 6v71 transit bus that left him in the dust for a fancier rig. There always is...
Great persistence there. Superb sound when she fired up.
You're the only channel I can watch a 35 minute video of lol
Rich
Love what you do
Cannot believe you don’t carry a piece of cardboard with you to crawl underneath all the things you crawl under
Easier on the knees and back and to find the dropped nuts and bolts
Thanks for the channel
I re-brush the starters on all my Detroit’s any they’ll spin better than new
Surely sometimes you get an armature that has a dead spot right?
@@44R0Ndin armatures rarely burn out normally its brushes or solinoid that go, ive only seen 1 bad armature and thats cos it went swimming in salt water... did not like that at all
This man loves his job
Hey Rich it’s optimized prime it needs the all spark
Love the old Detroit 2 strokes lol Love the buzz
I love the sound of a Detroit .
Love watching your show I think it’s hilarious every time you tinker with something it fights you tooth and nail I feel your pain bud every time I try and tinker
The drag line sat for 20 years and fired right up lol. Was expecting the same with this but no....
Billy talent is one of my favorite bands. This was about the last place I'd hear them referenced.
I've only seen 1 battery reverse polarity like that. Nice job working through it 👍
I think I done it to 1 of Dads old trucks in 60s?..
Reminds me of myself back in the day. My friends said I knew enough to be dangerous but way south of professional. Good luck 😎
i love these us cabovers, if i was ever to import anything it is something like this. love your videos
Working on a firetruck with a two stroke detroit last week that wouldn't start... really helps when there's a fuse in the position for the fuel solenoid shutoff
I once rigged up a 6 71 to run on the shop floor and could change the speed of the engine by raising an lowering the can of fuel. Two strokes have a very high rate of fuel return and are sensitive to fuel pressure.
My father owned a 74‘ Jimmy Astro 95 just like that. Beautiful rigs!
Love how filthy Rich never gives up!
This was one of the most satisfying videos ive watched in awhile
Optimus brine. I fawking love it bud.
A little bit of knuckleheadery but terrific persistance.
Nothing like these old engines
Kudos
that first bit, lets buy another one had me laughing hard, do love this channel
The first truck I drove was a White cab over with air assessed power steering. Normally aspirated, Cummins engine. Ten speed road ranger. What a dog, still I loved that tractor. I live in Minnesota where it used to be cold in the winter, it had a heater core under the drivers seat, 24 volt positive ground electrical. You possibly have the funnest channel on the TH-cam. I forgot it had a compression relief handle left side of steering wheel.