Fore or Scrub Plane?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- Do you need both a Fore plane and a Scrub plane in your shop? Perhaps not but in this broadcast I show how the two work as a highly effective dynamic duo. Want to get a Fore plane? Here is the video I referenced showing how to restore a vintage Jack plane and turn it into a Fore plane: • RWW 165 From Boat Anch...
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My wife is going to be happy as you convinced me to not buy a Veritas #6 :) Great content and I really like the more integrated plane teamwork. Thumbs up and subscribed. My only slight negative is the significant lag you get when go close in, camera likely just can’t handle it.
wortheffort sent me here from the past. And, damn, he's right. You are an excellent teacher! I've subscribed!
Continental scrub planes are made from wood, so probably much lighter than your number 3. No issues with that - I even prefer it that way with the scrub plane. So yes, I would definitely recommend a 3 over a 4 - but this probably depends on your taste.
This was really spot on... I found myself with a scrub plane and a n6 by chance and sort of it just felt right and it was quick very fast ! No sweat !
I think he just told me the number six is more useful than some people say. Haha. I love my number six either way.
I usually end up just using my fore plane because (as you did with the scrub) I go cross grain when I need to take short strokes. And That's usually only the case on the convex side of the board. The concave side is more easily addressed with a longer plane, working in either direction. I do find the benefit of cross grain work is easier planing with less tearout.
Cross grain is yet another of many tricks when the board isn't cooperating. The key is to let the board dictate your tactics. I would suggest however that when working the convex side of the board to NOT traverse the board but rather take 1 or 2 passes with the Fore right down the middle of the board. This will remove the hump in the middle much more efficiently that multiple passes across the grain. Likewise on the concave side where 1 or 2 passes along the edges with the grain are faster than traversing.
Yes, but it's long winded and I forgot what the main point is. Try not to be so encyclopedic and stick to the point. If you want to make another point, make another video.
Shut up. Believe it or not some of us enjoy listen to a video about fore planes for an hour
Really really nice video. I always enjoy your videos because difference from other videos that show the teory, you explain it and that is really valuable
I appreciate that. My goal is to help everyone understand the why so they can apply it to their own work.
I picked up an ECE scrub plane last year for about 150 australian dollars, I think that works out to be roughly 100 us dollars. IIRC there is a polish company selling a very similar plane for less.
Good to know, I did seem to remember they were not that expensive and from my limited use, are well made.
@@RenaissanceWW I was suprised that they have narrower body and more defined camber than you typically see on a converted plane (I haven't used the Veritas or similar so I can't compare those). I am super happy with the one I got, It's light but it's also low friction and it's not a plane where I ever need to make fine blade adjustments so a tap to adjust mechanism really isn't a disadvantage.
Wow, are they that expensive over at yours? You find them in used (but good) condition for maybe 20 bucks over here.
@@hermit84 that includes shipping which is about 1/3 the cost
Go Buffs...
A Stanley No. 6 was my first plane. Except for my block plane. I still use it to joint, shoot, and sometimes flatten. I bought a second blade instead of buying a separate plane for scrub work. But now I have a craftsman No. 3 for scrub planing that a friend gave me for free. The No. 6 is as good as the 5 1/2 if you do more jointing tasks than shooting.
Thank you for such a great comprehensive overview of both of those planes, I was trying to decide between the 2 types of planes - but I now understand how they are a dynamic duo!
great video, thanks. I just bought a transitional plane, for just the purpose of making a foreplane, I'll keep the original wood, and just make another soul, and swap blades also, , , so I get a two-fer, , , two for one.
I lucked into a cheap Corsair no. 4 sized plane with a very wide mouth. It makes a great scrub plane!
nice video, always enjoy your knowledge dense live steam.
@37:09 I would normally grab my hatchet for that, but draw knife works great too.
Hi. If I have wood with a few knots in it, would either of these planes work well for planning over the knots?
If the 1st side is flat why is the board rocking once you start on the second side?
Nicely explained/demonstrated.
at 15:30 when you say you don't think you'd go to a number 3, what is the consideration? is it because it's more narrow even though the shorter sole would potentially be advantageous?
because it would be too short and too narrow. Its a fine line for sure but once you get below a #4 the planes get delicate fast and the loss of mass could be a negative when pushing a heavily cambered iron set deeply. One could do it for sure but I think you would find that you have a VERY specialized use plane at that point vs a slightly longer soled plane as your scrub plane.
Great and informative video as always.
good job and practical and a lot of detail well done
I use my #6 as a jointer plane.
A full 53 + minutes of soundless lecturing and gesturing. Probably should check the equipment a little more closely. (Not my setup since I go from one TH-cam video to another most of the time. The previous 7 had zero problems...) Shame too because I really wanted to hear this one.
sounds works perfectly fine for me, also worked just fine live too since the chatroom was interacting with me the whole time. Not sure what to tell you other than reload the video and try again. I just did that too and it still works fine.
@@RenaissanceWW Sorry - my system DID whack out. I reloaded the browser and it worked fine. SORRY. This one was very well done and demonstrated your understanding of the planes and what they will do BEFORE planing the wood. Great video.
Hi. If I have wood with a few knots in it, would either of these planes work well for planning over the knots?
Knots are hell on plane blades, I tend to chisel them.
Every wooden plane I've seen already had a large mouth , I guess they are all wore out
you can tighten up an open mouth on a wooden plane by installing a patch in the sole, often called a Dutchman. I have several wooden planes that have been repaired this way.
Is the sound off for anyone else or is it my internet? Shannon, still a great video...my question has nothing to do with the content. :)
must have been a glitch as someone else said the same thing but I've got sound when I play it.
I think the issue is when the 2nd camera is used. Seems to be an issue with the delay on the audio when using that camera
@@RenaissanceWW Sorry...I meant "off" as in not in sync. I have sound.
For me, video looks very choppy, and sound is off sync, especially on the close up camera view. I have pretty fast computer and internet.