I totally agree Terrapin!!! I love it when Marty doesn't cut that do the blooper reel and keeps it in. When you watch a video in the CNC world and every thing goes good, maybe sometimes, but not all the time. Hats of to you Marty,,"Stay real". LOL!!
I really love that you show your mistakes and explain what went wrong, etc. I’m soaking up as much info as possible while I’m waiting for my 1F to arrive.
Thank you. Every morning I TRY to check my ego at the door. It’s not easy to do, but I want my channel to be different. I still don’t show EVERY mistake, but if it’s a learning moment I try to swallow my pride and share it with the world. Thanks for your comments, I really do appreciate you.
We’ve all had that happen. I used to get it often with my Makita and was the bit being pulled down under load. I’ve found it to be very important to clear dust from the collect during a change. At a minimum, tap it to knock dust out before inserting the new bit.
Great point, it’s very important to keep the collet clean to prevent tool slippage. However, in this particular case I simply bit off more that my surfacing bit could chew. 😉
I have no experience yet but I do see guys doing slab surfacing where they make the surfacing tool path much larger than the slab, so the bit starts off to the side of the slab and then goes into the slab from the side.
Great point, and I've also been thinking it may be better to do them as a raster toolpath (side to side) instead of an offset. I'll try that next time and see how it works out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm an industrial instrumentation/electrical tech so I'm fairly familiar with VFD's. That code 34 is probably just an overload error. Meaning it tripped the internal circuit breaker due to the extra amps you pulled. Most VFD's have a "reset" button on front. You didn't hurt your vfd because they're designed to do this. As long as you're letting it cool down you're good.
Very cool project Marty. I love the humility and humor of your vids. Subscribed! One word of advice. Get in the habit of zeroing off the spoilboard 99% of the time except for delicate surface vcarves and you’ll barely dig into your board. In vcarve just use z+0.003 and don’t hit =. That way if you change thickness in your job setup and recalculate it’s still good. I do this on my ShopSabre and my spoil board is 2 years old and barely used.
Thank you! I try to keep the video aspect of the process as fun as possible. Otherwise I can see how early burnout would be a very real possibility. I am very intrigued with zeroing off the spoilboard, just haven’t had the nerve to try it yet. So, you do this even if you’re only carving the surface of the workpiece, and not cutting all the way through with a profile cut? I’m gonna have to study this more so I can fully grasp the advantage over zeroing off the workpiece. 🤔
@@MitchellsWoodworkThere is a reason why the production world uses the bed. For anything non-surface carve the material thickness can vary quite a bit and you don’t care. Even for non-through cuts like dados and groves you get exact final dimensions. For most jobs that carve the surface, I’ll measure material thickness and still zero off the bed. If it’s super delicate I’ll create a tool path / job sheet that zeros off the surface and my other cuts off the bed. That’s very, very rare though. I just wanted to mention this since you seem also enlightened by using a tool setter and G55+ offsets instead of those silly xyz probes. At the end of the day, do what you want, I just wanted to provide new perspective.
I'm all about exploring and learning new ways to do old tricks, so I certainly appreciate your perspective on improving my CNC game. I checked your channel hoping to find a long list of CNC videos to learn from, but nothing yet (except an awesome Miley video). Feel free to contact me privately anytime; a link to my digital business card is in my bio. Thanks again!
Hi Marty, I'm seriously thinking about getting the Onefinity Foreman and I came across your channel looking for info. Thanks for the videos and info I subbed, looking forward to more vids.
Thanks for the sub! You'll never regret buying the Onefinity. I tell everyone to save their money and buy the Onefinity Elite first, because you're eventually going to end up here anyway. I've had X-Carve and Shapeoko Pro and I can tell you for certain that the Onefinity is in a league of its own. Be sure and check out my Onefinity Mods & Tips playlist at the link below! th-cam.com/play/PLqRrCnqsxc205ni9bmqukEaVEn2pkQF9M.html&si=eLgkRQeA7oibGx3g
That bit is indeed on another level. Just the sound it makes (in person) spinning at 14,000 RPM is enough to give even big ol’ boys like me the heebie-jeebies! 😁👍
I think when you rehomed it may have changed or deleted your z height value from the high spot. Just spit balling on that hypothesis. I had a similar situation when I used a huge 3 inch bit to surface my waste board. First run with that bit and it dug in and tripped my VFD as well. Also shattered on of the 4 wing replaceable blades. Thankfully I didn't get any shrapnel and actually didn't notice the blade until the next time I used the bit. Thanks for the entertaining videos.
That shouldn’t be the case, but I certainly can’t say 100% one way or the other. The idea of one of those big bits coming apart is a scary thought, and I’m glad you didn’t get hurt. Thanks for your feedback, as always. 😊
Maerty, Well i had the same error code as well my fault as i zeroed of the thinner end Had nme at a loss but did the same as you and restarted and all was well Thanks for the videos, most informative Phil
I bought a couple 16’ trailer loads of cedar slabs from an older gentleman a few years ago. These had been stored in a barn for over 10 years and were completely dry. All of the thicker boards I use are from those slabs. I do have a great relationship with a cedar sawmill that supplies all of my thinner boards. I have been buying and reselling cedar for several years, so I tend to keep a pretty good stash that have plenty of time to dry before I use them. Thanks for watching!
Hi Chris, thanks for the request. I discussed that a bit on the Surfacing QCW Wasteboard video linked below. Check it out and let me know if it helps you. If not, I’ll make one just for the Masso Link. Let me know! th-cam.com/video/h4H1BugEtP0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5jqFdVJ9jBRyVdNK
I think your tool setter attachment is either miscalibrated somehow?? or maybe it logged the centre of the bit but there is a concave area in the centre which doesn't match up with the lowest edge of the cutting blades or maybe the clamping pressure raised the stock material above the measured z...those are my best guesses. My primary guess though is the clamps were pushing the stock up in the centre. Just a thought here btw, can you start two playlists for future reference, one for masso error codes, and one for spindle/vfd errors. If people have this issue or other error issues in the future, your continued works may save some frustrations for others and become a valuable resource for aid.
I didn’t use the tool setter at first. I had it disabled in the Masso and just set the Z on top of the slab using the paper method. When I finally got the spindle going again that’s when I enabled the tool setter and used it, and that was the successful flattening job you saw in the video. Good idea about separating things out more in my playlists. I’ll work on that, thanks!
I am enjoying your videos and your input regarding the Masso controller. I do have a quick question about the Masso Likk app. I also use Vcarve, therefore I must use a Windows based computer. I have downloaded the Masso Link onto my computer and it seems to be working as is should but the window it is displayed in is so small I can barely make out what is in the input window. I haven't been able to fine a way to adjust it. Loaded it up on the mac, no problems pops up nice and big. Any thoughts?
Thanks for watching and subscribing! As a test, I just now tried to resize my Masso Link, and I didn't find a way to adjust it. But I've never heard of anyone else having an issue with it being too small to see clearly. Go on the Masso forum and see if you can find anything that might help you. forums.masso.com.au/
@@MitchellsWoodworkIt actually kind of resolved itself! I deleted toe Masso Link app and reinstalled it and low and behold it is normal size now. Don't know why, don't really care. It seems to be working now thanks for asking!
Marty, I know comments help the channel so I always try to add a positive comment. I am curious about how you zero the surfacing bit with the tool setter. I watched your video installing the Dash tool setter. However, I am concerned about the Masso setting for the big bits. That process gets into G codes think. Switching between the bit changes concerns me, I am hesitant to go ahead with the buy.
Thanks Jim, always happy to see your comments. DashMade recently added an attachment (actually two sizes) for larger bits. It attaches onto the top of the tool setter with magnets. You can see it for just a few seconds when I used it in this video (around 7:50 mark). The tool setter attachment requires no tweaks or setting changes in the Masso. Just add the attachment and continue on with business as usual. There is no extra coding required that your CAD software doesn’t already provide You really should try it out, Jim. I can assure you you’ll never regret it.
heat the vfd too many times, and the windings on the spindle will end up shorting to ground. As for the VFD, if you have proper cooling, it, in itself, if sized properly, should never get to the point of hitting over current, which leads to over heat conditions and faults the drive into safe mode (offline)- another point to make, when flattening a slab, always measure the highest point, set the DOC slightly under that, better to take more passes across to get to your determined z height final. just tips.
As I said in the video, I absolutely (attempted to) set the Z at the highest point on the slab. I can assure you, I have no future plans of heating up the VFD or spindle again. 😉
I covered that in my “add a fence to your CNC” video. You’ll find it in the ‘Onefinity Elite Mods & Tips” playlist linked below. th-cam.com/play/PLqRrCnqsxc205ni9bmqukEaVEn2pkQF9M.html&si=PGsT91UfBoKLm7Kv
Yes, it sure does. I ended up editing mine to increase functionality but it is usable as is. If you buy from PwnCNC be sure and use my affiliate code in the description of my videos. You’ll save 5% on your order and I’ll make a few bucks too.😊
The G-offset locations are defined and set by you. My G55 is set to the corner of my wasteboard fence. It’s my permanent XY zero. But I could’ve just as easily set it as G54 or G56 or G57, etc. My G54 is set the G54 to the true X Y zero at the home position, but I’ve yet to figure out how that’s really beneficial in any way. Basically, the G-offsets are to to quickly move your spindle to a very particular spot on your wasteboard, like the inside corner of my fence.
I’ve been using the PwnCNC v2 dust boot, but I’m having to switch to the v3 for my upcoming ATC install. They are both exceptional dust boots and I 100% recommend either one. pwncnc.com/?ref=-KowKWxX6qaGK
@@TheHelicapt just keep watching videos, brother. There’s a wealth of information here on TH-cam. Also, join some Onefinity and Masso groups. They both have great forums as well. forums.masso.com.au/ forum.onefinitycnc.com/c/machines-elite-series/118
I totally agree Terrapin!!! I love it when Marty doesn't cut that do the blooper reel and keeps it in. When you watch a video in the CNC world and every thing goes good, maybe sometimes, but not all the time. Hats of to you Marty,,"Stay real". LOL!!
LOL! Thanks Dave, I appreciate your continued support. I'm certainly not an actor, what you see is what you get! ;)
I really love that you show your mistakes and explain what went wrong, etc. I’m soaking up as much info as possible while I’m waiting for my 1F to arrive.
Thank you. Every morning I TRY to check my ego at the door. It’s not easy to do, but I want my channel to be different. I still don’t show EVERY mistake, but if it’s a learning moment I try to swallow my pride and share it with the world. Thanks for your comments, I really do appreciate you.
We’ve all had that happen. I used to get it often with my Makita and was the bit being pulled down under load. I’ve found it to be very important to clear dust from the collect during a change. At a minimum, tap it to knock dust out before inserting the new bit.
Great point, it’s very important to keep the collet clean to prevent tool slippage. However, in this particular case I simply bit off more that my surfacing bit could chew. 😉
I have no experience yet but I do see guys doing slab surfacing where they make the surfacing tool path much larger than the slab, so the bit starts off to the side of the slab and then goes into the slab from the side.
Great point, and I've also been thinking it may be better to do them as a raster toolpath (side to side) instead of an offset. I'll try that next time and see how it works out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I'm an industrial instrumentation/electrical tech so I'm fairly familiar with VFD's. That code 34 is probably just an overload error. Meaning it tripped the internal circuit breaker due to the extra amps you pulled. Most VFD's have a "reset" button on front. You didn't hurt your vfd because they're designed to do this. As long as you're letting it cool down you're good.
Yep, that’s the same thing the manufacturer told me. Thanks for your feedback and for watching!
Very cool project Marty. I love the humility and humor of your vids. Subscribed! One word of advice. Get in the habit of zeroing off the spoilboard 99% of the time except for delicate surface vcarves and you’ll barely dig into your board. In vcarve just use z+0.003 and don’t hit =. That way if you change thickness in your job setup and recalculate it’s still good. I do this on my ShopSabre and my spoil board is 2 years old and barely used.
Thank you! I try to keep the video aspect of the process as fun as possible. Otherwise I can see how early burnout would be a very real possibility.
I am very intrigued with zeroing off the spoilboard, just haven’t had the nerve to try it yet. So, you do this even if you’re only carving the surface of the workpiece, and not cutting all the way through with a profile cut? I’m gonna have to study this more so I can fully grasp the advantage over zeroing off the workpiece. 🤔
@@MitchellsWoodworkThere is a reason why the production world uses the bed. For anything non-surface carve the material thickness can vary quite a bit and you don’t care. Even for non-through cuts like dados and groves you get exact final dimensions. For most jobs that carve the surface, I’ll measure material thickness and still zero off the bed. If it’s super delicate I’ll create a tool path / job sheet that zeros off the surface and my other cuts off the bed. That’s very, very rare though. I just wanted to mention this since you seem also enlightened by using a tool setter and G55+ offsets instead of those silly xyz probes. At the end of the day, do what you want, I just wanted to provide new perspective.
I'm all about exploring and learning new ways to do old tricks, so I certainly appreciate your perspective on improving my CNC game. I checked your channel hoping to find a long list of CNC videos to learn from, but nothing yet (except an awesome Miley video). Feel free to contact me privately anytime; a link to my digital business card is in my bio. Thanks again!
Hi Marty, I'm seriously thinking about getting the Onefinity Foreman and I came across your channel looking for info. Thanks for the videos and info I subbed, looking forward to more vids.
Thanks for the sub! You'll never regret buying the Onefinity. I tell everyone to save their money and buy the Onefinity Elite first, because you're eventually going to end up here anyway. I've had X-Carve and Shapeoko Pro and I can tell you for certain that the Onefinity is in a league of its own. Be sure and check out my Onefinity Mods & Tips playlist at the link below!
th-cam.com/play/PLqRrCnqsxc205ni9bmqukEaVEn2pkQF9M.html&si=eLgkRQeA7oibGx3g
Man glitter😂😂😂. Keep the videos coming brother By the way that bit makes the few hairs I have left stand up
That bit is indeed on another level. Just the sound it makes (in person) spinning at 14,000 RPM is enough to give even big ol’ boys like me the heebie-jeebies!
😁👍
I think when you rehomed it may have changed or deleted your z height value from the high spot. Just spit balling on that hypothesis. I had a similar situation when I used a huge 3 inch bit to surface my waste board. First run with that bit and it dug in and tripped my VFD as well. Also shattered on of the 4 wing replaceable blades. Thankfully I didn't get any shrapnel and actually didn't notice the blade until the next time I used the bit.
Thanks for the entertaining videos.
That shouldn’t be the case, but I certainly can’t say 100% one way or the other. The idea of one of those big bits coming apart is a scary thought, and I’m glad you didn’t get hurt. Thanks for your feedback, as always. 😊
Maerty,
Well i had the same error code as well my fault as i zeroed of the thinner end
Had nme at a loss but did the same as you and restarted and all was well
Thanks for the videos, most informative
Phil
Yep, that’s an easy mistake to make. Glad you got yours back up and running!
Your drive saved you from burning up your spindle motor.
Yes, it certainly did. The VFD is an awesome accessory to have, for many reasons.
Love your channel. Do you get most of your Cesar from a sawmill? Also is the cedar you use dried at all?
I bought a couple 16’ trailer loads of cedar slabs from an older gentleman a few years ago. These had been stored in a barn for over 10 years and were completely dry. All of the thicker boards I use are from those slabs.
I do have a great relationship with a cedar sawmill that supplies all of my thinner boards. I have been buying and reselling cedar for several years, so I tend to keep a pretty good stash that have plenty of time to dry before I use them. Thanks for watching!
Sweet rig Marty! What dust boot assembly are you running? 👀
Thanks! It’s a PwnCNC v2 dust boot kit. My affiliate link is in the description that’ll save you 5% on your entire order if you decide to get one.
Hi Mitchell, could you please do a video on setting up the Masso link. Thanks.
Chris
Hi Chris, thanks for the request. I discussed that a bit on the Surfacing QCW Wasteboard video linked below. Check it out and let me know if it helps you. If not, I’ll make one just for the Masso Link. Let me know!
th-cam.com/video/h4H1BugEtP0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5jqFdVJ9jBRyVdNK
I think your tool setter attachment is either miscalibrated somehow?? or maybe it logged the centre of the bit but there is a concave area in the centre which doesn't match up with the lowest edge of the cutting blades or maybe the clamping pressure raised the stock material above the measured z...those are my best guesses. My primary guess though is the clamps were pushing the stock up in the centre.
Just a thought here btw, can you start two playlists for future reference, one for masso error codes, and one for spindle/vfd errors. If people have this issue or other error issues in the future, your continued works may save some frustrations for others and become a valuable resource for aid.
I didn’t use the tool setter at first. I had it disabled in the Masso and just set the Z on top of the slab using the paper method. When I finally got the spindle going again that’s when I enabled the tool setter and used it, and that was the successful flattening job you saw in the video.
Good idea about separating things out more in my playlists. I’ll work on that, thanks!
I am enjoying your videos and your input regarding the Masso controller. I do have a quick question about the Masso Likk app. I also use Vcarve, therefore I must use a Windows based computer. I have downloaded the Masso Link onto my computer and it seems to be working as is should but the window it is displayed in is so small I can barely make out what is in the input window. I haven't been able to fine a way to adjust it. Loaded it up on the mac, no problems pops up nice and big. Any thoughts?
Thanks for watching and subscribing! As a test, I just now tried to resize my Masso Link, and I didn't find a way to adjust it. But I've never heard of anyone else having an issue with it being too small to see clearly. Go on the Masso forum and see if you can find anything that might help you. forums.masso.com.au/
@@MitchellsWoodworkThanks
Did you get this problem resolved? I uploaded a new Masso WiFi video today.
th-cam.com/video/Z3Hbaqglv2g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=I5_Nfi9TZXx60_kl
@@MitchellsWoodworkIt actually kind of resolved itself! I deleted toe Masso Link app and reinstalled it and low and behold it is normal size now. Don't know why, don't really care. It seems to be working now thanks for asking!
Glad to hear it!! Now get to work!
😉👍
Marty, I know comments help the channel so I always try to add a positive comment. I am curious about how you zero the surfacing bit with the tool setter. I watched your video installing the Dash tool setter. However, I am concerned about the Masso setting for the big bits. That process gets into G codes think. Switching between the bit changes concerns me, I am hesitant to go ahead with the buy.
Thanks Jim, always happy to see your comments. DashMade recently added an attachment (actually two sizes) for larger bits. It attaches onto the top of the tool setter with magnets. You can see it for just a few seconds when I used it in this video (around 7:50 mark). The tool setter attachment requires no tweaks or setting changes in the Masso. Just add the attachment and continue on with business as usual. There is no extra coding required that your CAD software doesn’t already provide You really should try it out, Jim. I can assure you you’ll never regret it.
Thanks!!
No problem! 😊
heat the vfd too many times, and the windings on the spindle will end up shorting to ground. As for the VFD, if you have proper cooling, it, in itself, if sized properly, should never get to the point of hitting over current, which leads to over heat conditions and faults the drive into safe mode (offline)- another point to make, when flattening a slab, always measure the highest point, set the DOC slightly under that, better to take more passes across to get to your determined z height final. just tips.
As I said in the video, I absolutely (attempted to) set the Z at the highest point on the slab. I can assure you, I have no future plans of heating up the VFD or spindle again. 😉
How do you program/set the G55?
I covered that in my “add a fence to your CNC” video. You’ll find it in the ‘Onefinity Elite Mods & Tips” playlist linked below.
th-cam.com/play/PLqRrCnqsxc205ni9bmqukEaVEn2pkQF9M.html&si=PGsT91UfBoKLm7Kv
@@MitchellsWoodwork got it. Thank you.
I’m also going get the pwncnc and vacarve on an onefinity elite. Does v carve come with the post processor already setup for the masso elite ?
Yes, it sure does. I ended up editing mine to increase functionality but it is usable as is.
If you buy from PwnCNC be sure and use my affiliate code in the description of my videos. You’ll save 5% on your order and I’ll make a few bucks too.😊
@@MitchellsWoodwork ohh. Perfect. Will do !!
What’s the difference between G54 and G55 offset ? And what dust boot are u using ?
The G-offset locations are defined and set by you. My G55 is set to the corner of my wasteboard fence. It’s my permanent XY zero. But I could’ve just as easily set it as G54 or G56 or G57, etc. My G54 is set the G54 to the true X Y zero at the home position, but I’ve yet to figure out how that’s really beneficial in any way.
Basically, the G-offsets are to to quickly move your spindle to a very particular spot on your wasteboard, like the inside corner of my fence.
@@MitchellsWoodwork Ahhh. Got it. I’m so new to this and learning a lot. Thanks !
I’ve been using the PwnCNC v2 dust boot, but I’m having to switch to the v3 for my upcoming ATC install. They are both exceptional dust boots and I 100% recommend either one.
pwncnc.com/?ref=-KowKWxX6qaGK
@@MitchellsWoodwork thank you again !
@@TheHelicapt just keep watching videos, brother. There’s a wealth of information here on TH-cam. Also, join some Onefinity and Masso groups. They both have great forums as well.
forums.masso.com.au/
forum.onefinitycnc.com/c/machines-elite-series/118