So my brother hands me a box today full of parts and says here is an 1860 army pistol you can have if you put it back together. I get on TH-cam.. watch this video 18:30 video and I now own a pistol.. lol thank you so much sir. Great video.
I'm always impressed by the genius of the design of these guns. These guys didn't have any technology we take for granted, yet they came up with designs that still, over 150 years later, work, and even by todays standard, are powerful weapons. Thanks for posting these vids.
I think it's important to remember that the 1860s wasn't a technological dark age. It was a time of mass industrialization being led by brilliant minds in all manner of disciplines. They had at their disposal powerful machinery and innovative processes to manufacture everything from steam engines to bread. They were not simpletons banging two rocks together.
Not having any BP weapons, each time I consider buying one, I think of this chore, cleaning the weapon, each and every time you finish firing. Especially at my age, nearly 80 yrs old, I'm picky about how I use my time. Just the same, it's interesting info. I have read GOW for yrs. Thks Mike; you youngster; I''m a 1944 toddler.
I Just Bought My FIRST Black Powder Revolver, A 1860 44 cal. Army. (pietta) I Am SO Thankful For This Video, Because I Want To Be Good At Cleaning My Gun When I'm Done Firing It So It Will Last For Many Many Years. What I've Learned Right Off Is I Need The Proper Tools, Like The Plastic Mallet, The Brass Punch, And The Right Screwdrivers. Black Powder Shooting Is So Much More Satisfying, I'm Excited To Get Started! I'm 76 yrs Old And Have Never Fired A Black Powder Gun.
Thank you so much for this detailed video! Having recently purchased an 1860 replica I want to take it apart and very, very carefully remove any burs that I might find. I, and I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one, tend to get a bit lost when it comes to "exploded diagrams" and videos here on TH-cam that go just so far.....And stop! Thanks again for this video as it is the best/most complete that I've seen to date!
Thanks Mike. That looks like a Brownells Colt SSA screwdriver. They come with all the bits that fit every screw on nearly all Colt Revolvers. They are excellent. Thanks for the video.
Thank you so much. I was given one and the previous owner lost the Trigger & Bolt spring and messed up the spring on the hand assembly. You perfectly showed me how it all works. I'm impressed with your knowledge!!!!
Dear Mike: So sorry about your summer discomfort, the stinking weather most of the rest of the country is the sole reason I''ve remained in my Native California Sierra Nevada Mountains. I've two items of interest for you: First, the Big Lube bullet that I wrote you about earlier has worked out extremely well for me. It has two rebates for loading, the largest diameter for the ROA, the second designed for Replica Colt .44's. At @ 210 grains it works well in my Pietta 1851 Navy 44s. The different recoil with the heavier bullets makes the revolvers shoot even higher, I've got to fix that. I expect to modify the barrel assembly to make seating the bullets easier for me in the future, but for now they load just fine given sufficient care. The second item is that I have found Remington #10 caps in large quantities at Mid South Shooters Supply, I bought 10,000 which should last for a while even with CASS, too bad they don't stock the Holy Black though Thanks for your thoughtful and simple methods for care and feeding of these percussion revolvers. I expect to begin assembly of paper cartridges for these revolvers soon. Computer printer out-put paper soaked in Potassium Nitrate solution at maximum concentration. I have a whole case of the rolls left over from the days of dot matrix printers I have been using this paper for kindling in my wood stove during the winter, Thanks again for your informative videos about the care and feeding of these revolvers. I am in the process of using the method found on Open Range's page to convert to coil spring hand springs, no more broken springs for me! The process requires careful use of a drill press and an appropriate table vise, but otherwise it is relatively simple. I think I will use my mill also for dovetailing sights for these revolvers, have you any tips about this procedure, it seems to be a cleaner and faster way to make the dovetails on the front of the barrels. I just didn't want to take a Hacksaw to the barrels if an appropriate mill can be found for the dovetails. Let me know any ideas you may have about milling dovetails on these barrels. Best Wishes for you and yours Don Denison
I know this video is old and I'm making a comment 3 years later, but like a lot of other people have said, thank you very much for posting these videos, especially this one. It was very helpful solving a problem that I couldn't figure out. I still don't know what the problem was, it would get stuck and wouldn't work right. I took it all the way apart cleaned everything, and put it back together again and everything is fine now, like new. Anyways, again thank you
Thanks for this video. I don't know whether I'd ever have the confidence to try this myself. Putting everything back together seems as if it must be more complicated than it looks. I keep thinking something has to fit just right and that if I tried to do things myself, I'd be fighting with some part for hours. I appreciate your giving us this information. Maybe someday I'll buy an extra revolver that I can use just to practice this kind of stuff.
Start slowly - Take one part off, put it back on. Repeat until you're comfortable. Then take two parts off, put them back on. Before the evening is over, you'll be a pro. It really is almost as easy as Mike makes it look.
believe me taking those screws out the first time requires a good set of gun smith screwdrivers, muscle, and care. Mongo (Blazing Saddles) great great grandson screws those suckers in at the factory and they are in TIGHT.
I have the same model except its the .36 navy. Your previoua videos taught me a lot about how to play with these colts. Thank you and keep making these vids! Ps. Itll probably shoot a foot high. Front sight is easy to push out of its slot, and a brass plate, of the appropriate thickness is easy to shape into a taller front blade. Maybe do a vid on that?!
Mike, very professionally done, as always. Thank you. One request, could you add notes as to the specific driver bit size etc. that you use? It helps those of us that do “trial and error by mail order” and would be a big help. Thanks. Also, as a fellow Central PA guy (Centre County), I second you comments about rain this year.
Hey Mike, I know this is an older vid, but I'm fairly new to these guns and I have a cleaning question: after shooting (usually 18-24 shots) I have been cleaning the barrel and the cylinder / nipples with hot water and balistol. How often do I need to do a full takedown? I haven't done it yet... sometimes the hammer will feel a bit gritty after shooting but I've just dribbled a bit of Balistol in the action and worked it smooth... Should I take the whole thing apart every couple of times, or does the fouling not really get into the action too much? (I'm using Pyrodex, not real BP) thanks, Jon
Pyrodex is even more corrosive than real black powder. Personally, I completely strip cap and ball guns after each shooting session. But every couple of sessions is ok, unless it will be weeks until you shoot it again.
Wow Mike...what a timely video. I just bought a Uberti 1860 Army. I took it apart to clean out all the shipping grease. When I went to put it back together the hand refused to slide up into its slot. I looked up in there with a light...and sure enough...there's the "shelf" you were talking about(10:00). I tried to remove it with a quality needle file...but without much success. I ended up using a little brass rod to compress the spring...allowing the hand to slide past the shelf. Once lubed and put back together the action feels really nice. I guess the question is...do I risk ruining the feel of the action in an attempt to ease the reassembly process? It's a beautiful piece in all other respects...with an incredibly tight cylinder lock-up...so this issue certainly isn't a deal breaker. I'm just afraid of taking a 9.5 and turning it into 5...all because I wanted a 10!!!
Yeah...I think I'm going to leave it alone. If it was rubbing...or getting worse I'd do something about it. But once the hand is in the right position it no longer touches the shelf and functions fine. Anyway...thanks for all that you do for the community. It's kind of interesting...after watching so many of your videos. Whenever I read one of your articles in a gun magazine...I can't help but hear your voice narrating the text...lol. Thanks again.
Hola soy de valencia spain mi nombre es inda me alegra que hagas estos videos tan buenos pues estoy metido de lleno con la plovora negra y tu eres el mejor una pregunta en el colt cuando lo montas he observado que el pasador del cañón con el tambor no lo ajustas hasta el final solo lo introduces hasta que se vea por el otro lado y pienso ? será bueno o malo que este hasta el final y que no quede hueco entre el cañón y el tambor para que no se escapen los gases . pues tengo un amigo y hace lo mismo que tu .pienso que debería estar a tope mas junto y mas fuerte me alegraría me lo comentes gracias un saludo - inda
Great tear down. Have you ever removed the arbor that holds the cylinder on the frame? I had a Colt Navy 2nd Gen. that had a loose arbor that caused the barrel to rise up once you put the barrel wedge back in. You could actually see the slight rise compared to the frame and at 20 ft. it would should about a foot high. I tried to see how to remove the arbor, but never could so I sold it several years ago.
Mark Taylor if you need to repair a loose arbor your best bet is to buy a new frame. A specialist gunsmith can fix it, but they are hard to find, and the cost of a new frame is cheaper.
Having one hell of a time getting the two grip frame screws loose, Giuseppe must have ate his spinach the day it was assembled… any tricks or tips? Brand new gun they are stuck like glue
Terri Newman Rest the revolver frame on a solid surface, like the anvil on your bench vice. Put a good-fitting screw driver into the slot on the screw head, and hit it a few solid licks with a hammer. That should break the rust bond in the threads.
Hello I'm from valencia spain my name is Inda I'm glad you make these videos so good because I'm fully involved with the black plumber and you're the best a question on the colt when you mount it I've observed that the pin of the cannon with the drum you don't adjust it until the end you just insert it until you see it on the other side and I think ? it will be good or bad that it is until the end and that there is no gap between the barrel and the drum so that the gases do not leak. because I have a friend and he does the same thing as you, I think he should be butt together and stronger I'd be glad you'd tell me thanks to a greeting -- inda
Mike when are you going to get back on that beautiful York County Rifle. Are you waiting for winter?My experience is it required an impact driver and Brownell's bit to loosen all the grip frame screws and the trigger/bolt spring screw the first time on every one of my revolvers.
Excellent video. I having a problem though that you may know the answer to. Once I've assembled the trigger assembly and put the main spring back in place on the hammer, when I cock it everything locks up and I have to strip it back to the trigger to release it all. Any ideas?
I had a similar problem ,I don't know what the problem was with mine, but I took it apart, cleaned everything and put it back together as the video shows and everything is fine now. I couldn't see what the problem was otherwise I would tell you it was this that or some other thing. I just took it apart cleaned everything and put it back together. If I had to make a guess at it I would say maybe the single spring scew under the trigger guard, that holds the trigger and bolt spring in place was loose. But I'm not sure even about that. After i got mine all cleaned up inside and out everything is fine now
i have a 1851 navy it has fie on top of the barrel it has xxvl on the side and made in italy stamped on the bottom of the but plate. and a square with a b in the middle stamped next to it. can you tell me what it is and do they still make parts for it thx.
So a while back a over loaded my Lyman 1860 resulting in a stretched cylinder pin and the loading lever latch flying off. In your opinion how hard would it be to fit a new pin and lever latch
Thanks for the video. I wasn't sure if I can do it, but I tried and after many years, the gun looks like new again. My only problem and I don't know if it's real problem is that sometimes Cylinder /chambers won't exactly align with the hammer. The difference is tiny, looks like the hammer will always hit the primer. Is this going to be a problem, or I have to just forget it? Or what adjustment I should do. Thank You.
It is probably the hand. If you are over-rotating a little, file a tiny amount off of the top of the hand...a tiny amount. If you are under-rotating, you need to fit a new hand, which is a bit more of a job...file fit and try...repeat until it is rotating just right.
What type and sizes are the screwdrivers you are using? Thought you referenced that on another video, but I can't remember which one. New to cap and ball revolvers, and I love the history behind these firearms. Your channel rocks!
I have heard a couple TH-camrs advocate replacing the trigger spring because the factory spring is not the highest quality and is a failure point. I was hoping to get your opinion on that. Should I order 5 springs from Dixie and replace mine. Thanks for the content.
Hamm 603 the two springs that are most likely to break are the hand spring and the trigger/bolt spring. But, on a well maintained gun, the usually don’t break. I have had guns I’ve shot regularly for 20 years without breaking a spring. When I do replace them I prefer the wire springs.
@@duelist1954 : Thanks for getting back to me. I have a 70's vintage 1860 I bought used years ago, and a 58 Pietta New Army sheriff's model I bought 4/5 years ago. Not a problem with either of them with plenty of use. Since then I really got bit by the bug and have picked up 8 more. Hahaha. 2 are a matched pair of .36 cal. marked New Navy. No rounds through those yet and I would say under a 100 rnds through any of the others yet. I just wanted to get an answer from someone I know to be knowledgeable. I'll still pick up a couple for the parts box and not worry about it. Thanks again.
Hello Mike i hope you and your family are doing great :) if i choose to go with a new Black Powder Revolver i will either a Original Colt 1851 Navy .36 3RD Model Steel Frame or a Pietta Colt 1860 Army .44 Steel Frame or a Uberti 1873 Cattleman .44 Caliber Black Powder Steel Frame i will use them for Historical Purposes Target Shooting Hunting Self-Defense and Home-Defense :D
Hi Mike. I just got a Uberti 1860 and BOY WAS IT ROUGH! I almost couldn't get the barrel off of the frame. I cleaned & polished it to the point where it is 80% smoother then it was originally but one problem remains. When I just start to cock the hammer it sticks/hesitates, then breaks free and rotates the cylinder normally. The hand comes up out of the frame smoothly with no cylinder installed but as soon as I put it back together it starts to stick/hesitate again. Sometimes worse than others but it always does it. Any ideas? My 3 year old Uberti 1851 is like glass. This one needs more tuning/smoothing for sure but I have no idea what is causing it to stick. Have you seen this before?
Sometimes on Ubertis, the hand, as it rises out of its slot, binds against the side of the arbor, near the back. My otherwise nearly perfect 1861 navy did that. The hammer started out smooth and easy. Got about halfway then got hard. Took a lot of thumb pressure to finish cocking. With the barrel and cylinder out, cock it slowly a few times, and watch the hand rise. See if the hand is hitting the arbor, like it's trying to dig In to it. I marked the arbor, and filed a little flat spot on that spot on the arbor. I also took a little off the hand in that area. I did not remove any from the length, as it indexed about as close to perfect as you could expect.polished the hand, and everywhere else where friction could exist. And now it feels like it's full of precision bearings. You may have already figured it out by now.
Personally I have been able to use some Uberti parts...I have not had any luck with Pietta parts on them. But not all Uberti parts fit either. Last I checked, VTI gun parts still had some ASM stock.
I have a question I took mine apart and cleaned and put back together but I can't get half cock anymore just locked up and but no cylinder spin everything else works fine what should I do Mr Duelist?
www.ballistol-shop.de/Ballistol-und-Messing:_:108.html?language=de Google translate it, it's fine for brass, just don't immerse it in the stuff for weeks
Mike, I have bad news! So I receive my 1860 army revolver. I tried to disassemble it apart to remove burs left behind. I did use proper tools and correct size for screwdrivers. But, there’s always a but, on the rear back grip by the hammer seemed almost impossible to remove. Almost like welded it was that my strength was just too strong causing the screw to literally loose it’s screw head line nick. What do I do? Is there any way to remove this screw or am I really that in trouble? I’m loosing my patience here with this pistol.
What!!! Noooooo I’ve never done that, tomorrow morning Ima call if I could send the pistol back to get another one if possible. I’ve never done something like that. Mike, if the company from who I bought it doesn’t accepted it back it would be great to make a video of how to drill a screw out from a black powder firearm. If you’re interested my pistol is at your disposal. If interested Mike, if not I’m sure I could figure it out. Wish me luck!
I have an 1860 army made by Uberti and I cannot for the life of me get the barrel to budge. Took the pin out of course. Tried using the loading level and nothing. It's really on there.
Put the barrel in a well padded vice...good and tight. Take a small block of hardwood, and put it against the front face of the cylinder and hit it hard with a mallet.
@@duelist1954 It worked. I mangaed to disassemble it. Now i have to get it back together. This gun is just so tight, it makes disassembly and assembly a real chore.
I will try to contact uberti USA tomorrow or Monday. But the one I received last month, uberti 44 cal is junk. No more than a paper weight. And a learning tool, never buy black powder again.
Yeah, thanx for not blocking the camera so we could see where you placed ballistol. Oh, wait, you did block the camera. Don't quit your day job for a career on TH-cam. Work on your camera skills, brah.
So my brother hands me a box today full of parts and says here is an 1860 army pistol you can have if you put it back together. I get on TH-cam.. watch this video 18:30 video and I now own a pistol.. lol thank you so much sir. Great video.
Excellent!
I'm always impressed by the genius of the design of these guns. These guys didn't have any technology we take for granted, yet they came up with designs that still, over 150 years later, work, and even by todays standard, are powerful weapons. Thanks for posting these vids.
I think it's important to remember that the 1860s wasn't a technological dark age. It was a time of mass industrialization being led by brilliant minds in all manner of disciplines. They had at their disposal powerful machinery and innovative processes to manufacture everything from steam engines to bread. They were not simpletons banging two rocks together.
@@mackenzieblair8135 ah the age of industrialization and monopolies
Not having any BP weapons, each time I consider buying one, I think of this chore, cleaning the weapon, each and every time you finish firing. Especially at my age, nearly 80 yrs old, I'm picky about how I use my time. Just the same, it's interesting info. I have read GOW for yrs. Thks Mike; you youngster; I''m a 1944 toddler.
It's not that bad, use grease and the fouling won't get hard. Soapy water works well too.
Everything I know about black powder revolvers I've learned from your channel. Many thanks!
Me too.
Just got the same gun today and used this video to help me disassemble and my 1860!
I Just Bought My FIRST Black Powder Revolver, A 1860 44 cal. Army. (pietta) I Am SO Thankful For This Video, Because I Want To Be Good At Cleaning My Gun When I'm Done Firing It So It Will Last For Many Many Years. What I've Learned Right Off Is I Need The Proper Tools, Like The Plastic Mallet, The Brass Punch, And The Right Screwdrivers. Black Powder Shooting Is So Much More Satisfying, I'm Excited To Get Started! I'm 76 yrs Old And Have Never Fired A Black Powder Gun.
Excellent video, can see parts when most needed. A must for novices.
Thank you so much for this detailed video! Having recently purchased an 1860 replica I want to take it apart and very, very carefully remove any burs that I might find. I, and I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one, tend to get a bit lost when it comes to "exploded diagrams" and videos here on TH-cam that go just so far.....And stop! Thanks again for this video as it is the best/most complete that I've seen to date!
Very Well done. Good sound, good clear video, very clear voice.. Thank you..
Got my colt 1860 army $985%$ original now going to take apart and clean. Thanks
Thanks Mike. That looks like a Brownells Colt SSA screwdriver. They come with all the bits that fit every screw on nearly all Colt Revolvers. They are excellent. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely love this channel has got me hooked on black powder shooting
Thank you for these great videos! Im loving it!
Excellent video about disassembling and reassembling the 1860 Colt. Keep 'em coming, Mike!
Thank you so much. I was given one and the previous owner lost the Trigger & Bolt spring and messed up the spring on the hand assembly. You perfectly showed me how it all works. I'm impressed with your knowledge!!!!
Another good video Mike. Okay, I guess I'll start taking my 1860 part now. Thanks for the detailed video on the steps.
Dear Mike:
So sorry about your summer discomfort, the stinking weather most of the rest of the country is the sole reason I''ve remained in my Native California Sierra Nevada Mountains. I've two items of interest for you: First, the Big Lube bullet that I wrote you about earlier has worked out extremely well for me. It has two rebates for loading, the largest diameter for the ROA, the second designed for Replica Colt .44's. At @ 210 grains it works well in my Pietta 1851 Navy 44s. The different recoil with the heavier bullets makes the revolvers shoot even higher, I've got to fix that. I expect to modify the barrel assembly to make seating the bullets easier for me in the future, but for now they load just fine given sufficient care. The second item is that I have found Remington #10 caps in large quantities at Mid South Shooters Supply, I bought 10,000 which should last for a while even with CASS, too bad they don't stock the Holy Black though Thanks for your thoughtful and simple methods for care and feeding of these percussion revolvers. I expect to begin assembly of paper cartridges for these revolvers soon. Computer printer out-put paper soaked in Potassium Nitrate solution at maximum concentration. I have a whole case of the rolls left over from the days of dot matrix printers I have been using this paper for kindling in my wood stove during the winter, Thanks again for your informative videos about the care and feeding of these revolvers. I am in the process of using the method found on Open Range's page to convert to coil spring hand springs, no more broken springs for me! The process requires careful use of a drill press and an appropriate table vise, but otherwise it is relatively simple. I think I will use my mill also for dovetailing sights for these revolvers, have you any tips about this procedure, it seems to be a cleaner and faster way to make the dovetails on the front of the barrels. I just didn't want to take a Hacksaw to the barrels if an appropriate mill can be found for the dovetails. Let me know any ideas you may have about milling dovetails on these barrels.
Best Wishes for you and yours
Don Denison
I know this video is old and I'm making a comment 3 years later, but like a lot of other people have said, thank you very much for posting these videos, especially this one. It was very helpful solving a problem that I couldn't figure out. I still don't know what the problem was, it would get stuck and wouldn't work right. I took it all the way apart cleaned everything, and put it back together again and everything is fine now, like new. Anyways, again thank you
I learn a lot from you mike. You are the reason I purchased my 1851 Navy
Had to watch the first few min again .... as I had forgotten which side the wedge was inserted ... thanks Duelist
Yes great stuff thanks for the up load happy shooting
Thanks for the video my 1860 locked up. was a burr but your video let me take it completely down and fix it
I learned a lot from you as well thanks Mike
Bravo it is very well explained I feel like a pro now thank you for this intelligent and clear tuition
Great video, learned a lot. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I don't know whether I'd ever have the confidence to try this myself. Putting everything back together seems as if it must be more complicated than it looks. I keep thinking something has to fit just right and that if I tried to do things myself, I'd be fighting with some part for hours. I appreciate your giving us this information. Maybe someday I'll buy an extra revolver that I can use just to practice this kind of stuff.
It really is just as easy as it looks. There are no hidden traps or special tricks. Open Top Colt type revolvers are very easy to work with.
Start slowly - Take one part off, put it back on. Repeat until you're comfortable. Then take two parts off, put them back on. Before the evening is over, you'll be a pro. It really is almost as easy as Mike makes it look.
Yep, just like everyone else is saying, just follow the instructions that this video shows you and its really simple Simon.
believe me taking those screws out the first time requires a good set of gun smith screwdrivers, muscle, and care.
Mongo (Blazing Saddles) great great grandson screws those suckers in at the factory and they are in TIGHT.
Excellent I learn à lot with you, best regards from south of France. Sly
I have the same model except its the .36 navy. Your previoua videos taught me a lot about how to play with these colts. Thank you and keep making these vids! Ps. Itll probably shoot a foot high. Front sight is easy to push out of its slot, and a brass plate, of the appropriate thickness is easy to shape into a taller front blade. Maybe do a vid on that?!
Thanks for the video
Such a beauty this.
Thank you!
Many thanks for presentation.
Mike, very professionally done, as always. Thank you. One request, could you add notes as to the specific driver bit size etc. that you use? It helps those of us that do “trial and error by mail order” and would be a big help. Thanks. Also, as a fellow Central PA guy (Centre County), I second you comments about rain this year.
Hey Mike, I know this is an older vid, but I'm fairly new to these guns and I have a cleaning question: after shooting (usually 18-24 shots) I have been cleaning the barrel and the cylinder / nipples with hot water and balistol. How often do I need to do a full takedown? I haven't done it yet... sometimes the hammer will feel a bit gritty after shooting but I've just dribbled a bit of Balistol in the action and worked it smooth... Should I take the whole thing apart every couple of times, or does the fouling not really get into the action too much? (I'm using Pyrodex, not real BP)
thanks,
Jon
Pyrodex is even more corrosive than real black powder. Personally, I completely strip cap and ball guns after each shooting session. But every couple of sessions is ok, unless it will be weeks until you shoot it again.
thank you !!
Would it be a bad idea to put anti-seize on the screws during reassembly?
Thank you for your video. I learned a lot. These guns are awesome
They still do. I just checked it out. Thanks
Wow Mike...what a timely video. I just bought a Uberti 1860 Army. I took it apart to clean out all the shipping grease. When I went to put it back together the hand refused to slide up into its slot. I looked up in there with a light...and sure enough...there's the "shelf" you were talking about(10:00). I tried to remove it with a quality needle file...but without much success. I ended up using a little brass rod to compress the spring...allowing the hand to slide past the shelf. Once lubed and put back together the action feels really nice. I guess the question is...do I risk ruining the feel of the action in an attempt to ease the reassembly process? It's a beautiful piece in all other respects...with an incredibly tight cylinder lock-up...so this issue certainly isn't a deal breaker. I'm just afraid of taking a 9.5 and turning it into 5...all because I wanted a 10!!!
No, you did fine. Removing that shelf is very difficult. I usually depress the hand spring with a small screwdriver...no harm in it.
Yeah...I think I'm going to leave it alone. If it was rubbing...or getting worse I'd do something about it. But once the hand is in the right position it no longer touches the shelf and functions fine. Anyway...thanks for all that you do for the community. It's kind of interesting...after watching so many of your videos. Whenever I read one of your articles in a gun magazine...I can't help but hear your voice narrating the text...lol. Thanks again.
Thanks
Good video
How tight do you do the wedge retainer screw? All my Piettas have come with that screw loose. I usually just finger tighten it and leave it.
Excellent! Thank you sir! Liked and Subscribed.
Good looking Pistol
Dig the Hat. I have the very same 1860, Caps some times mushroom causing it to jam.
Hola soy de valencia spain
mi nombre es inda
me alegra que hagas estos videos tan buenos pues estoy metido de lleno con la plovora negra y tu eres el mejor
una pregunta en el colt cuando lo montas he observado que el pasador del
cañón con el tambor no lo ajustas hasta el final solo lo introduces hasta que se vea por el otro lado y pienso ?
será bueno o malo que este hasta el final y que no quede hueco entre el cañón y el tambor para que no se escapen los gases . pues tengo un amigo y hace lo mismo que tu .pienso que debería estar a tope mas junto y mas fuerte
me alegraría me lo comentes gracias un saludo - inda
Great video and thank you for you great work with theese videos :) They helped me a lot :D
Great tear down. Have you ever removed the arbor that holds the cylinder on the frame? I had a Colt Navy 2nd Gen. that had a loose arbor that caused the barrel to rise up once you put the barrel wedge back in. You could actually see the slight rise compared to the frame and at 20 ft. it would should about a foot high. I tried to see how to remove the arbor, but never could so I sold it several years ago.
Mark Taylor if you need to repair a loose arbor your best bet is to buy a new frame. A specialist gunsmith can fix it, but they are hard to find, and the cost of a new frame is cheaper.
Having one hell of a time getting the two grip frame screws loose, Giuseppe must have ate his spinach the day it was assembled… any tricks or tips? Brand new gun they are stuck like glue
Mike, what can be done if the screw for the hammer is frozen in the frame? I've tried heat and penetrating oil but still no go?
Terri Newman Rest the revolver frame on a solid surface, like the anvil on your bench vice. Put a good-fitting screw driver into the slot on the screw head, and hit it a few solid licks with a hammer. That should break the rust bond in the threads.
Hello I'm from valencia spain
my name is Inda
I'm glad you make these videos so good because I'm fully involved with the black plumber and you're the best
a question on the colt when you mount it I've observed that the pin of the
cannon with the drum you don't adjust it until the end you just insert it until you see it on the other side and I think ?
it will be good or bad that it is until the end and that there is no gap between the barrel and the drum so that the gases do not leak. because I have a friend and he does the same thing as you, I think he should be butt together and stronger
I'd be glad you'd tell me thanks to a greeting -- inda
Most of my guns are set up pretty well. When I pound the wedge into place, it is usually where I want it on most of my guns.
What about the last screw of the frame you don't take out, What is it for?
Mike when are you going to get back on that beautiful York County Rifle. Are you waiting for winter?My experience is it required an impact driver and Brownell's bit to loosen all the grip frame screws and the trigger/bolt spring screw the first time on every one of my revolvers.
Excellent video. I having a problem though that you may know the answer to. Once I've assembled the trigger assembly and put the main spring back in place on the hammer, when I cock it everything locks up and I have to strip it back to the trigger to release it all. Any ideas?
I think your hand may bevery slightly too long. But I would have a gunsmith check it out.
I had a similar problem ,I don't know what the problem was with mine, but I took it apart, cleaned everything and put it back together as the video shows and everything is fine now. I couldn't see what the problem was otherwise I would tell you it was this that or some other thing. I just took it apart cleaned everything and put it back together. If I had to make a guess at it I would say maybe the single spring scew under the trigger guard, that holds the trigger and bolt spring in place was loose. But I'm not sure even about that. After i got mine all cleaned up inside and out everything is fine now
i have a 1851 navy it has fie on top of the barrel it has xxvl on the side and made in italy stamped on the bottom of the but plate. and a square with a b in the middle stamped next to it. can you tell me what it is and do they still make parts for it thx.
Anyone have any ideas on removing the Barrel Locking Pins? Mine are shoved all the way into and flush with the front of the frame.
So a while back a over loaded my Lyman 1860 resulting in a stretched cylinder pin and the loading lever latch flying off. In your opinion how hard would it be to fit a new pin and lever latch
The latch is easy, but the pin is very difficult, and you may have stretched the frame where the pin is secured. Time to buy a new 1860.
Thanks for the video. I wasn't sure if I can do it, but I tried and after many years, the gun looks like new again. My only problem and I don't know if it's real problem is that sometimes Cylinder /chambers won't exactly align with the hammer. The difference is tiny, looks like the hammer will always hit the primer. Is this going to be a problem, or I have to just forget it? Or what adjustment I should do. Thank You.
It is probably the hand. If you are over-rotating a little, file a tiny amount off of the top of the hand...a tiny amount. If you are under-rotating, you need to fit a new hand, which is a bit more of a job...file fit and try...repeat until it is rotating just right.
@@duelist1954 Thank You
You sir are a public benefactor.
I do what I can...LOL
Mine is brand new and I'm just trying to wipe off the preservative. The wedge came out but I can't seem to get the barrel off.
put the gun on half-cock and put a piece of cardboard to protect the cylinder face. Use the loading lever to push the barrel off.
What type and sizes are the screwdrivers you are using? Thought you referenced that on another video, but I can't remember which one. New to cap and ball revolvers, and I love the history behind these firearms. Your channel rocks!
I think you're looking for this. th-cam.com/video/WS3QRSXm3zs/w-d-xo.html
@@duelist1954 Thank you! Good stuff!
Good morning. what is the screw above the wedge that holds the barrel on for?
Scott It stops the wedge from coming out all the way, so you don’t lose it.
duelist1954 thank you 🙏🏻
I have heard a couple TH-camrs advocate replacing the trigger spring because the factory spring is not the highest quality and is a failure point. I was hoping to get your opinion on that. Should I order 5 springs from Dixie and replace mine. Thanks for the content.
Hamm 603 the two springs that are most likely to break are the hand spring and the trigger/bolt spring. But, on a well maintained gun, the usually don’t break. I have had guns I’ve shot regularly for 20 years without breaking a spring. When I do replace them I prefer the wire springs.
@@duelist1954 : Thanks for getting back to me. I have a 70's vintage 1860 I bought used years ago, and a 58 Pietta New Army sheriff's model I bought 4/5 years ago. Not a problem with either of them with plenty of use. Since then I really got bit by the bug and have picked up 8 more. Hahaha. 2 are a matched pair of .36 cal. marked New Navy. No rounds through those yet and I would say under a 100 rnds through any of the others yet. I just wanted to get an answer from someone I know to be knowledgeable. I'll still pick up a couple for the parts box and not worry about it. Thanks again.
Hello Mike i hope you and your family are doing great :) if i choose to go with a new Black Powder Revolver i will either a Original Colt 1851 Navy .36 3RD Model Steel Frame or a Pietta Colt 1860 Army .44 Steel Frame or a Uberti 1873 Cattleman .44 Caliber Black Powder Steel Frame i will use them for Historical Purposes Target Shooting Hunting Self-Defense and Home-Defense :D
I just got me a 44 1860 avenging angel I'm in love!!
@@chuckkantos6925 awesome man :D
Hi Mike. I just got a Uberti 1860 and BOY WAS IT ROUGH! I almost couldn't get the barrel off of the frame. I cleaned & polished it to the point where it is 80% smoother then it was originally but one problem remains. When I just start to cock the hammer it sticks/hesitates, then breaks free and rotates the cylinder normally. The hand comes up out of the frame smoothly with no cylinder installed but as soon as I put it back together it starts to stick/hesitate again. Sometimes worse than others but it always does it. Any ideas? My 3 year old Uberti 1851 is like glass. This one needs more tuning/smoothing for sure but I have no idea what is causing it to stick. Have you seen this before?
Sometimes on Ubertis, the hand, as it rises out of its slot, binds against the side of the arbor, near the back. My otherwise nearly perfect 1861 navy did that. The hammer started out smooth and easy. Got about halfway then got hard. Took a lot of thumb pressure to finish cocking. With the barrel and cylinder out, cock it slowly a few times, and watch the hand rise. See if the hand is hitting the arbor, like it's trying to dig In to it. I marked the arbor, and filed a little flat spot on that spot on the arbor. I also took a little off the hand in that area. I did not remove any from the length, as it indexed about as close to perfect as you could expect.polished the hand, and everywhere else where friction could exist. And now it feels like it's full of precision bearings. You may have already figured it out by now.
Will Uberti or Pietta internals work in a ASM pistol?
Personally I have been able to use some Uberti parts...I have not had any luck with Pietta parts on them. But not all Uberti parts fit either. Last I checked, VTI gun parts still had some ASM stock.
Is it possible to mix pietta and original Colt parts ?
Wished you would do a review of the Pietta model 1851 navy "yank" pepperbox revolver . Cabelas has them for sale
Sorry...They do nothing for me.
@@duelist1954 lol. I understand. Just seen the gun for the first time and knew nothing about. Thanks though.
can you upgrade an 1860 to a cartridge revolver with new cylinder
johnny llooddte yup.
I have a question I took mine apart and cleaned and put back together but I can't get half cock anymore just locked up and but no cylinder spin everything else works fine what should I do Mr Duelist?
Where did you get the wedge removal tool?
wronghandshooter I think I got it from Track of the Wolf
Awesome vid. Who is the maker of these pistol?
puZAEdr Pietta
Special Note: the hand may hang up in the channel if the cylinder is not in place.
where did you get that hammer??
Hardware store years ago
I was told that ballistol eats up the brass. Is this true??
www.ballistol-shop.de/Ballistol-und-Messing:_:108.html?language=de
Google translate it, it's fine for brass, just don't immerse it in the stuff for weeks
Bladsmith thank you. I had hears this so I'm always careful. Ballistol is all I use.
doom sayer Absolutely not. It is perfectly safe on brass.
duelist1954 thanks Mike. I was misinformed.
Mike, I have bad news! So I receive my 1860 army revolver. I tried to disassemble it apart to remove burs left behind. I did use proper tools and correct size for screwdrivers. But, there’s always a but, on the rear back grip by the hammer seemed almost impossible to remove. Almost like welded it was that my strength was just too strong causing the screw to literally loose it’s screw head line nick. What do I do? Is there any way to remove this screw or am I really that in trouble? I’m loosing my patience here with this pistol.
Damian Alaniz It sounds like you’ll have to drill the screw out
What!!! Noooooo
I’ve never done that, tomorrow morning Ima call if I could send the pistol back to get another one if possible. I’ve never done something like that. Mike, if the company from who I bought it doesn’t accepted it back it would be great to make a video of how to drill a screw out from a black powder firearm. If you’re interested my pistol is at your disposal. If interested Mike, if not I’m sure I could figure it out. Wish me luck!
So, i want to repair a colt 1860 serial number 190457, i live on México, is posible?
If you're asking if I can repair your gun, the answer is no. I'm not a professional gunsmith.
I have an 1860 army made by Uberti and I cannot for the life of me get the barrel to budge. Took the pin out of course. Tried using the loading level and nothing. It's really on there.
Put the barrel in a well padded vice...good and tight. Take a small block of hardwood, and put it against the front face of the cylinder and hit it hard with a mallet.
@@duelist1954 Hmm. Okay, that sounds like as good an idea as any. I'll give that a shot.
Heh, phrasing.
@@duelist1954 It worked. I mangaed to disassemble it. Now i have to get it back together. This gun is just so tight, it makes disassembly and assembly a real chore.
For the life of me I cannot find a screwdriver that has a fine enough edge to get these screws out
This video has the info you need. th-cam.com/video/WS3QRSXm3zs/w-d-xo.html
Without a good set of gunsmith screwdrivers you will ruin the screws.
sr633 I have a complete set of Brownell’s Magna-Tip gunsmith screwdrivers
I meant for others trying this. We know that you are well equipped.
100 degrees? i am glad it is not in celsius
Celsius...who uses that???
I will try to contact uberti USA tomorrow or Monday. But the one I received last month, uberti 44 cal is junk. No more than a paper weight. And a learning tool, never buy black powder again.
these things are a damn nightmare to work on lol the uberti model fucking sucks to put back together
Rolex....
Yeah, thanx for not blocking the camera so we could see where you placed ballistol. Oh, wait, you did block the camera. Don't quit your day job for a career on TH-cam. Work on your camera skills, brah.
Thanks for not being sarcastic. Oh, wait, you were being sarcastic. Despite that, I’ll try to do better.