I nitrate coffee filters and use those for my paper cartridges. Works quite well and they hold together until loaded. No residue left in the cylinders after firing. Always have a steady supply of them since I buy my coffee and filters in bulk lol. It's pretty easy. Get some potassium nitrate and make a super saturated solution, dip coffee filters in and then hang them up to dry. They don't burn as fast as true flash paper, but they do burn completely with no embers, if done correctly.
You’re loading it in the wrong hole 🕳, try the outside hole 🕳 on the cylinders, I just make some paper cartridges and they fit better in the outside chamber and then rotate them into the next position or press them down slightly with a little stick with a matching female end of the tip of the bullet or balls, like that bronze tube I use to pick up the.44 caliber balls to place into the paper wraps, with a ink pen 🖊 inside the tube to click the button on top to push them out, so I don’t have to touch those knurled greased with the graphite vasobutter I make up , and then taste my cigarette 🚬 or sandwich 🥪. I’m just getting tired 😴 of knurling my own balls. It’s an art 🖼 form, I only trust myself with.
In a large part because of your channel I purchased my first blackpowder revolver it gets into my local gun store on Friday. I also happen to be an avid re loader an I can't wait to start making my own paper cartridges. Thanks for all the awesome content and the wealth of information.
Excellent video as always, very interesting and I learned that I’m completely okay my 1851 with loose loading round balls. I don’t use it for completion, I just plink, I’ll same my time reloading brass cartridges.
I watched the "making your own wads" video. Great information! Your a helluva shot with your 1860 army! Woo! Evil Roy got the blues! That was awesome man thanks again Mike I'll be watching and sharing brother.
I make my own with the Lee bullets. I use onion paper or flash paper with a dowel I made by hand. Works great and I don't seem to have the problem getting the cartridge in with mine. May be that the bullet sets further in he cartridge. Never had a problem. Would be nice to be historically accurate though.
Lee is kicking themselves in the ass for not coming up with this idea. My Lee conical heels seem to enter the chamber mouth up to the 2nd band in my Remington. Not the same for the Pietta 1860 Army. I modified the gun with diamond files from Harbor Freight, and a lot of filing has to be done, all the way up to the rear of the wedge. It now takes the Lee .44 conicals,
duelist1954: From what I have heard reguarding this time period in history the mid to late, 1860's and early - middle 1870's that metalic cartridges still being a fairly new thing and with many percussion revolvers being abundant after the Civil War many people did not have the money to convert them or buy a new metalic cartridge revolver. As well that resupply- replenishment of goods to stores transportation being done by horses and the rail roads would take time to replenish stock in the vastness of the United States would take time that metalic cartridges would at certain times not necessarily be widely available. As such as one would need to they could switch back to using the percussion system whole revolver or cylinder in a conversion as well. That this is the reason many bullet molds of that era were made with big heals and were stepped for some time for this exact reason; for use in the percussion system and self replenishment self reliance. As I understand it combustible paper cartridges for revolvers were made in to the 1880's.
Mike, great video. Interestingly enough your method is very similar to the method I used 10 plus years ago to make ammunition for my '59 Sharps Carbine. Instead of cigarette papers and wood glue, I used hair curler papers and a kids glue stick to seal the cartridge tubes and glue the paper base in place. Then after filling the tubes with powder, I would insert the heeled bullet and use thin CA glue to adhere the paper to the bullet. Lastly I would dip bullet into a wax lube mixture and sit aside in the loading tray. I could crank out about 25-30 rounds an hour if I used a powder drop.
Clear fingernail polish dries fast and burns clean. It is what I use on paper Sharps paper cartridges. Also you can color code by using different colors.
I just polish the cavities. We call it "leementing" them. Take a hard cast bullet, run a wood screw in through the base where these cuts off, mix a light abrasive, I used comet cleanser to a thick paste. Coat the hardcastle, close the mold on it and spin it with a drill motor, usually takes 2 or 3 times coating the bullet.clean and cast
I use the Lee bullets and fix them in the cartridge with the lube (run them through the lube sizer with beeswax base lube). No glue needed, the lube holds the bullet in place very well.... Works a treat....
Very nice Mike! Regarding bullet molds..A horseshoeing client/friend of mine lives in an area where the Battle of Honey Creek was fought during the Civil War. Several years ago, I saw an unusual looking bullet mold device laying on a tool shelf in his barn. It appeared to be about .36 caliber, and I inquired as to why he had it.
He told me he'd found it inside the cleft of some rocks on a hill behind his house, and it was actually inside what appeared to be rotten leather and canvas. I made a deal to trim a horse in return for it. The mold solid metal, and it is 2 cavities for conical bullets. Do you know if soldiers, presumably Confederates, actually molded bullets in the field, or is this likely something from a later era?
@@steveburton9625 Bullet molds were certainly commercially available, so even if casting bullets in the field wasn't standard practice, it wouldn't be surprising if some soldiers brought a personally-owned bullet mold along in case it proved useful.
I recently used my brass 31 cal. Mold I got from Dixie ,they say it cast under size but it doesn't, it shaves lead from both the round ball and the bullet, the bullet looks just like them you are useing except .31 cal. , brass gets hot but makes old style bullet 😊
Nice video and very informational. I understand that the video is focused on a historical reproduction of the Picket bullet. I would like to create my own paper cartridges but using the VKG BG 240gr Kaido bullet for hunting. The Kaido design with the LFN would no doubt be a much harder hitting and deadlier projectile for my intended purposes. Maybe in the near future you may wish to do video with the Kaido bullet in a paper cartridge configuration. Love your work and keep the videos coming.
I made some like this using round ball loads with wonder lube 1000 wads after a while the lube leached into the paper, after few days the entire piece was covered in lube from the wad, but didn't effect the powder I used substatute powder, can't find the real stuff around here all shot 100%, speeds up the amount of shooting but takes time to make them, I find it a pleasing process.
Mike, I took your advice and bought a Uberti 1851 Navy. I saw your earlier comment about the Eras Gone By .36 mold, but what are the dowel dimensions for a .36 cartridge?
i use zig zag kings works great u can get them cheap on amazon doesn't look as good but works not trying to be historically accurate just works even with the lee molds
I make something realy close to this for my 1858 bison. They load great but i would have to look back in my notes for the paper shell size. I thing the base should be smaller and make it longer. This way the paper gets ripped when crushed.
Another source for molds is Arsenal Molds. They will make molds to order from either aluminum or brass. If they don't already have it, they'll make it for you WITHOUT the $175 setup charge that Lee and Lyman charge above and beyond actual mold costs for special orders. The brass is beautiful, but speaking from experience, limit brass to one or two cavity molds. Four and six cavity molds are easier to handle in aluminum. Like I said, if they don't have it, they will make it to your request, as you requested. If they can make a cutter for it, they'll make a mold for you.
Kirk Boswell: It is very easy to make your own mould using your Lathe and Milling machine, once you have the form cutter,(also easy to make), you can make as many moulds as you want for various bullet weights, as I have just found when making an unobtainable 300 grn mould for my 50-110 Winchester.
Englishman French - Thank you for that information. I am actually aware that this can be done, but neither I nor my brothers have a lathe/milling machine. We are looking for an affordable setup, but until that time, I'm limited. I have been building up a "to do" list for the day we have one. 😊. Not the least of which is a project for turning a .22 RF into a .25 acp so I can get 22 performance from a reloadable cartridge. (yes I know about the 22 kit, but those aren't really reloadable. The pin strike remains and making priming compound from matches just doesn't cut it). So I'm waiting on this project for when I have access to a milling machine.
Kirk Boswell: Ahh I did not realise you had no machines, then I think a trip to a local evening class that teaches Model Engineering is your easiest way to go, to buy even small machines is a considerable outlay, the cost is not so much in the machines, but all the tooling that you need to go with them. Good luck in your search, you are much better to buy old machines ,rather than the new Chinese imports!
Kirk Boswell: Good luck with your search, best bet is a small jobbing shop closing down , you usually get a lot more tooling thrown in on those deals, make sure you can get 3 phase wired in a home though.
Mike, I love your videos they are awesome, but you are also a killer book salesman Amazon has sold 2 to me quite recently that were featured in your videos if you have other great books, please show them. I bought this one tonight, and Wild Bill Hickock, gunfighter a couple of weeks back.
My solution for the 1860 issue was to make the cartridges longer and thinner; 0.300 at the base instead of 0.390 and 1.300 long... I'm a little cowardly when it comes to taking a file to a part that will cost me a significant percentage of just replacing the weapon if I mess her up XD
Are you nitrating your own velum or using some other paper? I was just thinking that once you have your measurements you could use a paper guillotene to make the cuts for the sides and that way not have to cut to length with the exacto knife.
Great video Mike.Looking forward to the next one.The manufacturing process looks a bit tedious by hand.I assume they had some kind of machinery that produced these back in the 19th century?
JohnLeePedimore In the 1860s most paper cartridges were commercially made, and the process was very labor intensive. Cartridge companies used mostly child labor to keep costs down
Mike is right. They mention in the Ordnance Manual that boys had the job of pan lubing the minie balls and punching them out. Also said that the boys were to operate the minie ball swagging machine. I wonder if any of these machines survived the ages. The girls rolled the paper tubes, were supposed to be able to make 2000 per shift. They were known as "Paper Girls."
So I have a question about the long ogive. I know people asked about the semiwad cutters but even if that's not historically accurate would the shorter ogive eliminate the need to modify the gun?
the Johnston and Dow name reminded me of the stuff I've read on Civil War patent cartridges and how J&D made one particular combustible cartridge where the soldier could just drop the cartridge down the barrel without the use of a ramrod (or tapping the butt of the rifle on the ground to get it down), cap the rifle and fire. ever tried to make one?
Mike, what do you think about the Traditions 1860 Army revolvers? I'm thinking of purchasing one just haven't seen any one of repute have an opinion of them
What is the length of the heel on the J&D bullets? I have been using bullets sized to .454 in my 3 Remington New Army's. I am going to start making paper cartridges soon, would still like to use my old mould (ruger old army mould from lee).
Mike, do you do any with round balls? I have those but not the conicals. I haven't progressed to the point where I can afford the equipment to make the conicals. If you have a video on that it would be nice.
Powdered graphite, 91% alcohol and a q-tip. Mix it together and the bullet cavity dries fast because of the alcohol. Someone used to make and sell it 20 years ago.
duelist1954 Mike what is your opinion on the Traditions 1860 Army revolver I'm thinking of purchasing one but I haven't seen an opinion on them from someone of repute
Good video, but have you ever tried a cigarette lighter to smoke the mould? NOE suggest it and I've found it's the easiest and fastest way for me. Holding out for a six cavity J&D mould.
about 30 years ago I tried making paper cartridges. I used both EZ wider and Zig Zag papers, and even nitrated some of each. The problem I couldn't overcome was having a lot of residual unburned paper (even when nitrated) remaining in the cylinder. I was never able to get any cartridge (even with only one layer of paper) to burn completely & leave no significant amount of paper. How do you overcome it?
AZshooter I don’t over come it. I have found that it caused no problems, even after many shots, and the residual paper comes out when you clean the gun.
Dear Mike: Is there no need to nitrate these papers? I've used a similar process by soaking my paper in a solution of Potassium Nitrate then cutting my papers after the sheets dry. It would be good to be able to eliiminate that step.
Real question is how do they shoot? I've had excellent results with the Lee conicals, but like you said, hard to put paper on the bottom and they are not historically accurate.
Just a thought but instead of modifying the gun. Why not try modding the cartridge form. Make it more longer and more tapered. I would think a little bit of hand pressure would be enough to crush the cartridge all the way int the camber Or is the bullet itself to tall to fit under the rammer.
The cartridge tends to break in half when you try to put it in. Original Colt 1860 revolver have about 1/10th of an inch more space in the loading window and the metal above the loading window is more tapered than on the Italian repros.
SGFIII grease isn’t used in revolvers to prevent chain fires. It’s used for lubrication. The oversized bullet is shaved to seal the chamber to prevent chain fire.
At the end of this video you said you would make a video that shows modifying the gun to accept the paper cartridges. I could not find such a video. In another of you videos I saw you stuff a paper cartridge awkwardly into the cylinder without any modifications to the gun. Did you decide to just do it that way instead of modifying the gun?
I hope you and the many other viewers of this video will forgive what I'm sure will be considered a stupid question but it's one that has bothered me from the first time I discovered the existence of paper cartridges and the use of conical bullets in/with them over forty years ago. Why did such bullets not lean toward a LSWC design? Have I been indoctrinated, so to speak, by the late great Elmer Keith, or did such bullets/bullet molds simply not exist when paper cartridges were popular/in wide use? I'm a big bore handgun fan and prefer mass over velocity in most cases, especially when it comes to BP revolvers and .44 Specials and ANY .45 caliber "modern cartridge" that I hunt with, carry concealed, or keep close to hand for home defense. The sole exception being my fondness for the .40S&W (which has very similar ballistics to the .38-40 of the 19th century or so I have read) over the 9mm in any power level or bullet configuration. It just seems, to me at least, that a relatively heavy, flat pointed bullet would be even easer to load, a better/more effective and accurate bullet, at what we today think of as lower velocitiy BP projectiles in most cases. I know I tend to bug the hell out of you with my questions and I apologize, but your video and magazine articles have added greatly to my knowledge and understanding of BP firearms. Thanks again for an excellent educational and entertaining video. Please keep 'em coming!
Well hell...That makes sense. I never considered the era in which the LSWC came into "common" usage. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Take care and keep shootin'!!!
Excellent video as always Mike. A bit off topic but I recently read a fascinating story about a (then) 14 year old Orion P. Howe who received the Medal of Honor in 1896. He was a drummer boy with the 55th Illinois during the American Civil War. The story involves him being sent for .54 cal ammunition during the siege of Vicksburg and getting wounded. He is said to have realized "too late" that his regiment used .58 cal ammo and that .54 would be “useless.” My question: could .54 cal ammo be used with any effect in a .58 cal rifle musket? Many thanks in advance.
I know this was four years ago maybe you will read it. I cannot find the video of you modifying the 44 caliber to accept the pre-made paper cartridges. Can you send me that video? Have a great day stay safe and keep your powder dry!
I have tried to purchase the Ears Gone By bullet mold. Unfortunately, they sell through a company called Bonanaza who runs those purchases through PayPal and only PayPal. So let me share with you PayPals Policy on firearms, parts and ammunition.What is PayPal’s policy on transactions that involve firearms? As you will see PayPal IS NOT A FRIEND of the Second Amendment and not Your Friend. We don’t allow PayPal members to buy or sell any kind of firearm, whether it’s in working order or not. The same goes for certain firearm parts and ammunition. For example, using PayPal, you can’t buy or sell: Any firearm, including rifles, shotguns, and handguns, whether they’re for sport and recreation, collectibles, or curio or relic firearms. Firearm parts, including but not limited to receivers and frames, silencers, and kits designed to modify guns so that they fire automatically. High capacity magazines, multi-burst trigger activators, and camouflaging firearm containers are other items in this category. Ammunition, including propellants like gunpowder or blank ammunition; ammunition or cartridge cases; and primers, bullets, or propellant powder designed for any firearm.
Hey really ,Go too Brodaks hobby and order NITRATE DOPE AND medium or heavy silkspan,wet and stretch the silkspan and then give it some coats of NITRATE DOPE, it burns TOTALLY and fast and is it's own glue and sealer and for storage may be given recoats,buterate dope shrinks and don't burn as great as NITRATE DOPE! !!-!!
If you use thicker papers like coffee filters, it needs to be nitrated, but thin paper, like cigarette paper or hair curler paper doesn't need nitrating.
I nitrate coffee filters and use those for my paper cartridges. Works quite well and they hold together until loaded. No residue left in the cylinders after firing. Always have a steady supply of them since I buy my coffee and filters in bulk lol.
It's pretty easy. Get some potassium nitrate and make a super saturated solution, dip coffee filters in and then hang them up to dry. They don't burn as fast as true flash paper, but they do burn completely with no embers, if done correctly.
Potassium Nitrate for those who don't know is sold by Lowe's and probably any garden center as stump remover cuts your cost.
You’re loading it in the wrong hole 🕳, try the outside hole 🕳 on the cylinders, I just make some paper cartridges and they fit better in the outside chamber and then rotate them into the next position or press them down slightly with a little stick with a matching female end of the tip of the bullet or balls, like that bronze tube I use to pick up the.44 caliber balls to place into the paper wraps, with a ink pen 🖊 inside the tube to click the button on top to push them out, so I don’t have to touch those knurled greased with the graphite vasobutter I make up , and then taste my cigarette 🚬 or sandwich 🥪. I’m just getting tired 😴 of knurling my own balls. It’s an art 🖼 form, I only trust myself with.
In a large part because of your channel I purchased my first blackpowder revolver it gets into my local gun store on Friday. I also happen to be an avid re loader an I can't wait to start making my own paper cartridges. Thanks for all the awesome content and the wealth of information.
just a note, I've been watching you forever. Skate board tape makes a great rasp
Where is this tape obtained?
good video. thanks to your videos and information I finally bought my first percussion gun. a pietta 1851 navy.
Excellent video as always, very interesting and I learned that I’m completely okay my 1851 with loose loading round balls. I don’t use it for completion, I just plink, I’ll same my time reloading brass cartridges.
Great info,its cool that it is still done the old way
Drill a hole the length of the dowl and you can just blow the paper cup off the dowl.
I watched the "making your own wads" video. Great information! Your a helluva shot with your 1860 army! Woo! Evil Roy got the blues! That was awesome man thanks again Mike I'll be watching and sharing brother.
I make my own with the Lee bullets. I use onion paper or flash paper with a dowel I made by hand. Works great and I don't seem to have the problem getting the cartridge in with mine. May be that the bullet sets further in he cartridge. Never had a problem. Would be nice to be historically accurate though.
Lee is kicking themselves in the ass for not coming up with this idea. My Lee conical heels seem to enter the chamber mouth up to the 2nd band in my Remington. Not the same for the Pietta 1860 Army. I modified the gun with diamond files from Harbor Freight, and a lot of filing has to be done, all the way up to the rear of the wedge. It now takes the Lee .44 conicals,
That also helps to explain why many of the early metallic cartridges used a heeled bullet with a case the same diameter as the bullet.
Yeah. Basically they were re-creating the paper cartridge in brass
duelist1954:
From what I have heard reguarding this time period in history the mid to late, 1860's and early - middle 1870's that metalic cartridges still being a fairly new thing and with many percussion revolvers being abundant after the Civil War many people did not have the money to convert them or buy a new metalic cartridge revolver.
As well that resupply- replenishment of goods to stores transportation being done by horses and the rail roads would take time to replenish stock in the vastness of the United States would take time that metalic cartridges would at certain times not necessarily be widely available.
As such as one would need to they could switch back to using the percussion system whole revolver or cylinder in a conversion as well.
That this is the reason many bullet molds of that era were made with big heals and were stepped for some time for this exact reason; for use in the percussion system and self replenishment self reliance.
As I understand it combustible paper cartridges for revolvers were made in to the 1880's.
thanks Mike. looking forward to the next video!
Mike, great video. Interestingly enough your method is very similar to the method I used 10 plus years ago to make ammunition for my '59 Sharps Carbine. Instead of cigarette papers and wood glue, I used hair curler papers and a kids glue stick to seal the cartridge tubes and glue the paper base in place. Then after filling the tubes with powder, I would insert the heeled bullet and use thin CA glue to adhere the paper to the bullet. Lastly I would dip bullet into a wax lube mixture and sit aside in the loading tray. I could crank out about 25-30 rounds an hour if I used a powder drop.
Ready for the next video..You have a great channel,very informative..
Clear fingernail polish dries fast and burns clean. It is what I use on paper Sharps paper cartridges. Also you can color code by using different colors.
Great how to video , thank you .
I just polish the cavities. We call it "leementing" them. Take a hard cast bullet, run a wood screw in through the base where these cuts off, mix a light abrasive, I used comet cleanser to a thick paste. Coat the hardcastle, close the mold on it and spin it with a drill motor, usually takes 2 or 3 times coating the bullet.clean and cast
I remember in the movie "The Homesman" tails the supporting actress character to pick up a couple of boxes of 36 caliber paper cartridges.
I think about this every time I hear about paper cartridges
when I heard him say that line I got so excited cuz I knew they existed.
I use the Lee bullets and fix them in the cartridge with the lube (run them through the lube sizer with beeswax base lube). No glue needed, the lube holds the bullet in place very well.... Works a treat....
Very nice Mike! Regarding bullet molds..A horseshoeing client/friend of mine lives in an area where the Battle of Honey Creek was fought during the Civil War. Several years ago, I saw an unusual looking bullet mold device laying on a tool shelf in his barn. It appeared to be about .36 caliber, and I inquired as to why he had it.
He told me he'd found it inside the cleft of some rocks on a hill behind his house, and it was actually inside what appeared to be rotten leather and canvas. I made a deal to trim a horse in return for it. The mold solid metal, and it is 2 cavities for conical bullets. Do you know if soldiers, presumably Confederates, actually molded bullets in the field, or is this likely something from a later era?
@@steveburton9625 Bullet molds were certainly commercially available, so even if casting bullets in the field wasn't standard practice, it wouldn't be surprising if some soldiers brought a personally-owned bullet mold along in case it proved useful.
Great video! very educating 😉
Good info. Thanks.
I recently used my brass 31 cal. Mold I got from Dixie ,they say it cast under size but it doesn't, it shaves lead from both the round ball and the bullet, the bullet looks just like them you are useing except .31 cal. , brass gets hot but makes old style bullet 😊
Mike you have a beautiful lawn!
Holy cow you've got patients.
Nice video and very informational. I understand that the video is focused on a historical reproduction of the Picket bullet. I would like to create my own paper cartridges but using the VKG BG 240gr Kaido bullet for hunting. The Kaido design with the LFN would no doubt be a much harder hitting and deadlier projectile for my intended purposes. Maybe in the near future you may wish to do video with the Kaido bullet in a paper cartridge configuration. Love your work and keep the videos coming.
SWEET!
I made some like this using round ball loads with wonder lube 1000 wads after a while the lube leached into the paper, after few days the entire piece was covered in lube from the wad, but didn't effect the powder I used substatute powder, can't find the real stuff around here all shot 100%, speeds up the amount of shooting but takes time to make them, I find it a pleasing process.
MrBez09 I was going to ask if round balls would work. Can you share any helpful info on how you do it.
I make mine with round balls and it works well.
Mike, I took your advice and bought a Uberti 1851 Navy. I saw your earlier comment about the Eras Gone By .36 mold, but what are the dowel dimensions for a .36 cartridge?
i use zig zag kings works great u can get them cheap on amazon doesn't look as good but works not trying to be historically accurate just works even with the lee molds
I make something realy close to this for my 1858 bison. They load great but i would have to look back in my notes for the paper shell size. I thing the base should be smaller and make it longer. This way the paper gets ripped when crushed.
Using the cigarette paper is good and they don't need to be soaked in nitate solution? Thank you for showing how to make them
what would the dimensions be for a .36 cal cartridge?
like with a colt cartridge works bullet?
great video. I need to see the one on how to modify the guns. will this work on the remington?
Another source for molds is Arsenal Molds. They will make molds to order from either aluminum or brass. If they don't already have it, they'll make it for you WITHOUT the $175 setup charge that Lee and Lyman charge above and beyond actual mold costs for special orders.
The brass is beautiful, but speaking from experience, limit brass to one or two cavity molds. Four and six cavity molds are easier to handle in aluminum.
Like I said, if they don't have it, they will make it to your request, as you requested. If they can make a cutter for it, they'll make a mold for you.
Kirk Boswell: It is very easy to make your own mould using your Lathe and Milling machine, once you have the form cutter,(also easy to make), you can make as many moulds as you want for various bullet weights, as I have just found when making an unobtainable 300 grn mould for my 50-110 Winchester.
Englishman French - Thank you for that information. I am actually aware that this can be done, but neither I nor my brothers have a lathe/milling machine. We are looking for an affordable setup, but until that time, I'm limited. I have been building up a "to do" list for the day we have one. 😊. Not the least of which is a project for turning a .22 RF into a .25 acp so I can get 22 performance from a reloadable cartridge. (yes I know about the 22 kit, but those aren't really reloadable. The pin strike remains and making priming compound from matches just doesn't cut it). So I'm waiting on this project for when I have access to a milling machine.
Kirk Boswell: Ahh I did not realise you had no machines, then I think a trip to a local evening class that teaches Model Engineering is your easiest way to go, to buy even small machines is a considerable outlay, the cost is not so much in the machines, but all the tooling that you need to go with them. Good luck in your search, you are much better to buy old machines ,rather than the new Chinese imports!
Englishman French - Total outlay is considerable, as you say, and we are finding out. I'll keep an eye out for machine shop auctions. Thank you.
Kirk Boswell: Good luck with your search, best bet is a small jobbing shop closing down , you usually get a lot more tooling thrown in on those deals, make sure you can get 3 phase wired in a home though.
Mike, I love your videos they are awesome, but you are also a killer book salesman Amazon has sold 2 to me quite recently that were featured in your videos if you have other great books, please show them. I bought this one tonight, and Wild Bill Hickock, gunfighter a couple of weeks back.
My solution for the 1860 issue was to make the cartridges longer and thinner; 0.300 at the base instead of 0.390 and 1.300 long... I'm a little cowardly when it comes to taking a file to a part that will cost me a significant percentage of just replacing the weapon if I mess her up XD
yup me too
Are you nitrating your own velum or using some other paper? I was just thinking that once you have your measurements you could use a paper guillotene to make the cuts for the sides and that way not have to cut to length with the exacto knife.
Great video Mike.Looking forward to the next one.The manufacturing process looks a bit tedious by hand.I assume they had some kind of machinery that produced these back in the 19th century?
JohnLeePedimore In the 1860s most paper cartridges were commercially made, and the process was very labor intensive. Cartridge companies used mostly child labor to keep costs down
Mike is right. They mention in the Ordnance Manual that boys had the job of pan lubing the minie balls and punching them out. Also said that the boys were to operate the minie ball swagging machine. I wonder if any of these machines survived the ages. The girls rolled the paper tubes, were supposed to be able to make 2000 per shift. They were known as "Paper Girls."
So I have a question about the long ogive. I know people asked about the semiwad cutters but even if that's not historically accurate would the shorter ogive eliminate the need to modify the gun?
Probably. Sorry for the late reply, but I was away on business last week
the Johnston and Dow name reminded me of the stuff I've read on Civil War patent cartridges and how J&D made one particular combustible cartridge where the soldier could just drop the cartridge down the barrel without the use of a ramrod (or tapping the butt of the rifle on the ground to get it down), cap the rifle and fire.
ever tried to make one?
I see why ammo is expensive now.
Nice look into this industry.
Mike, what do you think about the Traditions 1860 Army revolvers? I'm thinking of purchasing one just haven't seen any one of repute have an opinion of them
They are made by Pietta...just sold by Traditions...good, solid gun.
duelist1954: that’s good to hear :)
Looking forward to the gun modification I was wondering if different brands all had same problem as mine a pietta
Oh yes.
great vid, Mike!
What was the grit of the sandpaper you used? I do not want to be too aggressive, but I also do not want to take all day.
Las Vegas Muskets 600 grit. The file does most of the work...5-10 minutes tops to make the mandrel.
Awesome video. Thanks for showing that process. Is that similar to making a paper cartridge for a Sharps?
Basically yes.
Only make sure your 'cartridge" is sized for your Sharps and your powder measure is correct. ^.-.^
Buen dia Mr.Mike, ¿ Se puede usar este tipo de proyectil en el revolver Le Mat..?
Saludos desde La Patagonia Chile...
I think it can, but I haven't actually tried it in the LeMat
What is the length of the heel on the J&D bullets? I have been using bullets sized to .454 in my 3 Remington New Army's. I am going to start making paper cartridges soon, would still like to use my old mould (ruger old army mould from lee).
Great video. A question; is there space left between powder and bullet when done?
No.
Mike, do you do any with round balls? I have those but not the conicals. I haven't progressed to the point where I can afford the equipment to make the conicals. If you have a video on that it would be nice.
I have made cartridges with roundballs, but never liked them, so no videos....Sorry.
No problem. If you don't ask, you don't know.
Mike, Are you using pure lead to cast the J&D's or an alloy? Approximate Brinell hardness?
Thanks, GvS
Pure lead
Thanks. Great videos that contain reliable, useful information.
Mike, how do these cartridges work with the Remington NMA's? Do they require modification also? (BTW Franford Arsenal Drop Out is still available.)
Powdered graphite, 91% alcohol and a q-tip. Mix it together and the bullet cavity dries fast because of the alcohol. Someone used to make and sell it 20 years ago.
Thanks Mike, what brand cigarette papers are you using?
EZ Wider double wides. I cut them in half
duelist1954 Mike what is your opinion on the Traditions 1860 Army revolver I'm thinking of purchasing one but I haven't seen an opinion on them from someone of repute
So is that why the earliest cartridge loads tended to use heeled bullets? They just kinda stuck existing bullets into casings?
Can you make these with a roundball by sinking half the ball. Thanks in advance
Yes, but you will need a wider paper shell
duelist1954 Thank you once again. I'm going to give it a shot. Will let you know how I make out. Really enjoy your channel and videos.
What is the longevity of the 1860? Do you have to replace parts after how long? Or do you have to replace the whole gun at some point?
renobLE vg
You have to clean it after every 12-20 rounds. And ALWAYS CLEAN before storing. Even if only shot once... do this and it will outlast you!
Instead of modifying the gun why not just use a bench loader with the cylinder out of the gun? Great video, i have been wanting to make some of these.
Good video, but have you ever tried a cigarette lighter to smoke the mould? NOE suggest it and I've found it's the easiest and fastest way for me. Holding out for a six cavity J&D mould.
4:09 molybdenum disulfide pretty sure its the right color
Source?
just the color and characteristics its a high heat lubricant
Why would the Lee bullet not work? No modifications would be needed on the pistol. It also has lube grooves.
What size dowel for .36? And the trimming measurements
about 30 years ago I tried making paper cartridges. I used both EZ wider and Zig Zag papers, and even nitrated some of each. The problem I couldn't overcome was having a lot of residual unburned paper (even when nitrated) remaining in the cylinder. I was never able to get any cartridge (even with only one layer of paper) to burn completely & leave no significant amount of paper.
How do you overcome it?
AZshooter I don’t over come it. I have found that it caused no problems, even after many shots, and the residual paper comes out when you clean the gun.
Link to next video?
Can paper cartridges be made for a Kentucky long rifle in the same style as the 1851 Navy?
Does anyone sell these bullets already cast? And being .454" could you load .45 Long Colt with this bullet?
Dor Aran No, and no. The heel is too loose for the ..45 Colt case
Question begs: why not use silicone spray or even WD40 to spay the mold?
I use Silicone Spray but not on a Hot Mold the propellant is Flammable. WD40 is an Oil and will Contaminate the castings.
Do you not need to nitrate the paper?
Dear Mike:
Is there no need to nitrate these papers? I've used a similar process by soaking my paper in a solution of Potassium Nitrate then cutting my papers after the sheets dry. It would be good to be able to eliiminate that step.
Donald Denison cigarette papers and curling papers don’t require nitration
Real question is how do they shoot? I've had excellent results with the Lee conicals, but like you said, hard to put paper on the bottom and they are not historically accurate.
My .44 J&D conicals shot great from my Remington.
Good to know, would love to get a mould and try them out.
Mark Hubbs is getting up the money to have Lee produce 6 cavity molds.
Still don't mean I can afford one rite now. Maybe if sales pick up or the oil patch kicks back off.
How do you melt your aluminum
Just a thought but instead of modifying the gun. Why not try modding the cartridge form. Make it more longer and more tapered. I would think a little bit of hand pressure would be enough to crush the cartridge all the way int the camber Or is the bullet itself to tall to fit under the rammer.
The cartridge tends to break in half when you try to put it in. Original Colt 1860 revolver have about 1/10th of an inch more space in the loading window and the metal above the loading window is more tapered than on the Italian repros.
Dang, well it seemed like a good idea.
Does anyone make a good .36 cal bullet mold to do this for a '51 Navy?
Eras Gone Molds also have a period correct .36 bullet.
Awesome. Thanks!
Do you got worry about greasing the chamber to prevent chain firing
SGFIII grease isn’t used in revolvers to prevent chain fires. It’s used for lubrication. The oversized bullet is shaved to seal the chamber to prevent chain fire.
I use asetiliene smoke , no oxygen too keep "dingle berries" from sticking too my welding projects. Mind you I've never made bullets . Just a welder
How can you get a mold if you're not on fb?
erasgonebullets.webstarts.com/
At the end of this video you said you would make a video that shows modifying the gun to accept the paper cartridges. I could not find such a video. In another of you videos I saw you stuff a paper cartridge awkwardly into the cylinder without any modifications to the gun. Did you decide to just do it that way instead of modifying the gun?
He just posted this video today. So you will have to wait for the video he said he will make.
checking MSDS on the Frankford Arsenal Drop out, it is basically just solvents and graphite. i bet a can of Lock - Ease would work also
They still make your spray!
I'm thinking glue the bullets directly to powder pellets
I was thinking the same thing.
Why did ASM go out of business?
Carl Gula Money problems related to the owner’s divorce.
how does that ignite?
The paper is very thin. The flame from the cap burns right through
I hope you and the many other viewers of this video will forgive what I'm sure will be considered a stupid question but it's one that has bothered me from the first time I discovered the existence of paper cartridges and the use of conical bullets in/with them over forty years ago. Why did such bullets not lean toward a LSWC design? Have I been indoctrinated, so to speak, by the late great Elmer Keith, or did such bullets/bullet molds simply not exist when paper cartridges were popular/in wide use? I'm a big bore handgun fan and prefer mass over velocity in most cases, especially when it comes to BP revolvers and .44 Specials and ANY .45 caliber "modern cartridge" that I hunt with, carry concealed, or keep close to hand for home defense. The sole exception being my fondness for the .40S&W (which has very similar ballistics to the .38-40 of the 19th century or so I have read) over the 9mm in any power level or bullet configuration. It just seems, to me at least, that a relatively heavy, flat pointed bullet would be even easer to load, a better/more effective and accurate bullet, at what we today think of as lower velocitiy BP projectiles in most cases. I know I tend to bug the hell out of you with my questions and I apologize, but your video and magazine articles have added greatly to my knowledge and understanding of BP firearms. Thanks again for an excellent educational and entertaining video. Please keep 'em coming!
Semi-wadcutters are a fairly modern bullet design. In the 19th century they were more concerned with the bullet being aerodynamic in shape.
Well hell...That makes sense. I never considered the era in which the LSWC came into "common" usage. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Take care and keep shootin'!!!
Mike, how does it feel to have the best job in the world?
Did the man who made these molds stop prooducing them?
Nope. As far as I know they are still in business.
Excellent video as always Mike. A bit off topic but I recently read a fascinating story about a (then) 14 year old Orion P. Howe who received the Medal of Honor in 1896. He was a drummer boy with the 55th Illinois during the American Civil War. The story involves him being sent for .54 cal ammunition during the siege of Vicksburg and getting wounded. He is said to have realized "too late" that his regiment used .58 cal ammo and that .54 would be “useless.” My question: could .54 cal ammo be used with any effect in a .58 cal rifle musket? Many thanks in advance.
Carolina Smoke Wagon It could be used at close range, but otherwise it would be very inaccurate
Thanks Mike.
I know this was four years ago maybe you will read it. I cannot find the video of you modifying the 44 caliber to accept the pre-made paper cartridges. Can you send me that video? Have a great day stay safe and keep your powder dry!
Here you go. th-cam.com/video/jyQAQnTjAac/w-d-xo.html
Inches to three decimal places? 🤯
Lee makes the molds for Eras gone.
Drill 1/2 inch hole. How deep Mike? I know, it is a duh question, but I have obsessive compulsive disorder when it comes to guns.
Las Vegas Muskets About half an inch deep. You want about a quarter of an inch of paper tube above the top of the block
Thank you, Mike.
I see your main problem on your melting table there.
You should have Pepsi or RC as opposed to Coke.
Pretty bullets are only nice IF they hit the target. Could you back up your experiments with accuracy and ballistics data?
I have tried to purchase the Ears Gone By bullet mold. Unfortunately, they sell through a company called Bonanaza who runs those purchases through PayPal and only PayPal. So let me share with you PayPals Policy on firearms, parts and ammunition.What is PayPal’s policy on transactions that involve firearms? As you will see PayPal IS NOT A FRIEND of the Second Amendment and not Your Friend.
We don’t allow PayPal members to buy or sell any kind of firearm, whether it’s in working order or not. The same goes for certain firearm parts and ammunition.
For example, using PayPal, you can’t buy or sell:
Any firearm, including rifles, shotguns, and handguns, whether they’re for sport and recreation, collectibles, or curio or relic firearms.
Firearm parts, including but not limited to receivers and frames, silencers, and kits designed to modify guns so that they fire automatically. High capacity magazines, multi-burst trigger activators, and camouflaging firearm containers are other items in this category.
Ammunition, including propellants like gunpowder or blank ammunition; ammunition or cartridge cases; and primers, bullets, or propellant powder designed for any firearm.
Hey really ,Go too Brodaks hobby and order NITRATE DOPE AND medium or heavy silkspan,wet and stretch the silkspan and then give it some coats of NITRATE DOPE, it burns TOTALLY and fast and is it's own glue and sealer and for storage may be given recoats,buterate dope shrinks and don't burn as great as NITRATE DOPE! !!-!!
★✩★✩★✩★✩★✩★✩ Hello !
But where is the primers in the paper cartridges
You Tube you still have to put a percussion cap on the chamber’s cone, just like with loose powder and ball
duelist1954 yeah I know about that but does it work same with revolver
C
I thought in making paper cartridges, "Nitrated" paper was used???.
If you use thicker papers like coffee filters, it needs to be nitrated, but thin paper, like cigarette paper or hair curler paper doesn't need nitrating.
Caseless ammunition.
Seems like paper tubes should be sold for ease of loading... Just like the do the cigarette filter tubes these days...