The extensor exercise shown is for reduction of inflammation and finger warming/synovial fluid movement, not extensor forearm muscle strengthening. This is better done through wrist raises and pinch block lifts as the forearm muscles do not work antagonistically but will be more engaged by favoring a hand position more bent in the direction of the muscle. Further, was not a half crimp because you cannot half crimp without a load on the fingers since the proximal and distal joints have a severely different angle during flexion. You won’t be able to do a half crimp with this setup, instead you need a hold and to raise the wrist.
It's kinda sad, haven't climbed in so long that I almost forgot how I normally clip😅 Only 6 weeks to go then finally back on the wall (after nearly 6 months!!) ...
That second technique I use for both hands and both ways round the quickdraw is. If quickdraw opening is facing right, you make an L with left hand (palm facing out), and with right hand make an L (palm facing in). If quickdraw opening is facing left, you make an inverse L with right hand (palm facing out), and with left hand make an inverse L (palm facing in). It is so so so much easier than the other 2 techniques shown.
I’m really confused about that second technique... whenever I try that, the skin (or pully’s or whatever there is below my thumb), just keeps contact with the rope so the quickdraw will not go between the rope and my thumb 🤣
At 5:56, Matt clips a single "standard" quickdraw at the top of the route? Wouldn't it be safer to place two quickdraws on the bolt, with both carabiners facing each other (like at the top of some routes in climbing gyms)?
5:54 No matter how good you are, no matter how long youve been climbing for, NEVER bite the rope, if you happen to fall at that moment youll tense up, biting even harder into it, ripping your teeth out of your mouth or even worse, getting your jaw ripped out of your face. Just "park" the rope between your chin and chest or between your head and shoulder, like a telephone.
Is the very first clipping "technique" at 1:20 a big no-no? It seems like he is forcing the rope with his index finger through the gate by putting the finger inside the quick draw.
as long as the finger does not go INTO the clip, it's the go-to method when you are shaky, freaked, tired or the quickdraw moves in free air (overhangs). Just as with every other method (and this should have been mentioned in the video) -> make sure your fingers stay outside the clip.
Jonathan is practiced enough to not get his index interfering with the gate much if ever, and the risk is overblown. In reality, stuffing fingers through the gate is just inefficient clipping, being imprecise and rushed rather than smooth.
Better pro tips:
1)Be less shit
2) Don't fall off
3) Power scream every single move
"Climbing is about climbing" Adam Ondra
Keep em coming
The extensor exercise shown is for reduction of inflammation and finger warming/synovial fluid movement, not extensor forearm muscle strengthening. This is better done through wrist raises and pinch block lifts as the forearm muscles do not work antagonistically but will be more engaged by favoring a hand position more bent in the direction of the muscle.
Further, was not a half crimp because you cannot half crimp without a load on the fingers since the proximal and distal joints have a severely different angle during flexion. You won’t be able to do a half crimp with this setup, instead you need a hold and to raise the wrist.
I've never climbed anything. But i am learning pro tips now to get a good start. hahaha
It's kinda sad, haven't climbed in so long that I almost forgot how I normally clip😅 Only 6 weeks to go then finally back on the wall (after nearly 6 months!!) ...
Good to see you climbing Matt! Great videos!😉
That second technique I use for both hands and both ways round the quickdraw is.
If quickdraw opening is facing right, you make an L with left hand (palm facing out), and with right hand make an L (palm facing in).
If quickdraw opening is facing left, you make an inverse L with right hand (palm facing out), and with left hand make an inverse L (palm facing in).
It is so so so much easier than the other 2 techniques shown.
Yup, technique I always teach is that. Works the same no matter the orientation or position of the draw.
I’m really confused about that second technique... whenever I try that, the skin (or pully’s or whatever there is below my thumb), just keeps contact with the rope so the quickdraw will not go between the rope and my thumb 🤣
Is that hanger not oriented in the right direction? Maybe it turned ? One minute in.
Remember that time Matt only climbed around 7a lol. How my baby has grown.
Only 7a i think 7a is pretty good
@@KrostaVisuals Agreed, but he climbs way harder now!
@@williamdouglas7025 yeah
At 5:56, Matt clips a single "standard" quickdraw at the top of the route? Wouldn't it be safer to place two quickdraws on the bolt, with both carabiners facing each other (like at the top of some routes in climbing gyms)?
Since he cliped all the rest of the quickdraws, it doesn't matter.
5:54 No matter how good you are, no matter how long youve been climbing for, NEVER bite the rope, if you happen to fall at that moment youll tense up, biting even harder into it, ripping your teeth out of your mouth or even worse, getting your jaw ripped out of your face. Just "park" the rope between your chin and chest or between your head and shoulder, like a telephone.
Tip 1: Don't be bad
Tip 2: Go to tip 1
What are the benefits of this sport ?
La ruta se llama "Qué pasa Neng" he perdido la puta cabeza JAJJAJJ
Is the very first clipping "technique" at 1:20 a big no-no? It seems like he is forcing the rope with his index finger through the gate by putting the finger inside the quick draw.
Nope, this is totally fine and literally everyone uses this technique.
as long as the finger does not go INTO the clip, it's the go-to method when you are shaky, freaked, tired or the quickdraw moves in free air (overhangs). Just as with every other method (and this should have been mentioned in the video) -> make sure your fingers stay outside the clip.
Jonathan is practiced enough to not get his index interfering with the gate much if ever, and the risk is overblown. In reality, stuffing fingers through the gate is just inefficient clipping, being imprecise and rushed rather than smooth.
He is not HOOKING the draw with his finger. He puts the top of his finger like a ledge on the draw. There is no risk there.
@@LorenzoClimbs what could be the risk of getting finger in carabine? Not accepted climb as ascended?
“...practice a little bit while they’re at a stop light.”
holy shit absolutely never ever do that.
lol why
Last sunday, we lost Luce Douady. Why didn't EpicTv adress this sad news ?
actualy they did on episode 1680 of june 17.
Here you go: th-cam.com/video/LdblSSshQf8/w-d-xo.html
@@dailyclimbing Episode 1688, my mistake.