Hey thank you! And yes! I completely agree with you haha lucky I noticed it. I do remember Richard saying something wasn't right and it wasn't performing as well one day. I thought maybe because it was really cold but nope!
That rear bearing is the bane of my 3.3 slayer. Never had to change it in my 2.5 rusty, 4 gallons through it too. The original 3.3 that came in the Slayer got all messed up when the rear bearing went. Now I'm more pro-active at changing it. I don't bother with the expensive high end options cause they don't seem to last that much longer. The 3.3 should of been a "big block"/normal .21 crankcase size. A larger rear bearing wouldn't have this issue.
Yeah they're pretty anemic and the reciprocating mass is quite a bit more but with a good quality European or Japanese made bearing it's not really usually a problem after that. I usually change em after the first gallon. My buddy is running Acer ceramic bearings in his 3.3 and it's been great! I have a set in my 2.5R as well. But if you want really good steel bearings SKF bearings from Sweden 🇸🇪 been using em for years now without any problems
Haha yeah no kidding! Was just talking to another chap who left a comment having the same issue except the outer bearing race in the rear was loose in the block. Will be more later 😎
About a gallon if I had to guess. The guy I got it from Jay'p RC took very good care of it like all his stuff. I have seen this happen a handful lately. A high quality set of bearings should solve this problem 💯
@@thebug4046 yes I think I'm going to invest in some ceramic bearings next time. I just took a 3.3 apart and the inside bearing was spinning in the block. I've never had that happen before.
@@michaelgraham2943 yup! That's a problem. When you order from Acer make sure it says engine bearing! Before you buy. Because they sell bearings of the same size that are not for engine use. Or order from AVID
@@PerfectBiscuits they used to be. They have gone up in price and down in Quality. I haven't ran them in a few years so I'm not sure how they are now. If I want steel bearings I run SKF bearings from Sweden or if I want ceramic I run AVID or Acer ceramic bearings
Stick the seized engine in some modern marvel mistory oil over night then dry off and then apply tourch heat the out side of the block while in a vise and turn crank shaft nut with crescent while engine still hot. Works almost every time. Wish a real car engine was as easy to free up 😅🫡😉💯👍👌✌️
Traxxas has the worst bearings. Nice video. Big fan from Michigan
Hey thank you! And yes! I completely agree with you haha lucky I noticed it. I do remember Richard saying something wasn't right and it wasn't performing as well one day. I thought maybe because it was really cold but nope!
That rear bearing is the bane of my 3.3 slayer. Never had to change it in my 2.5 rusty, 4 gallons through it too. The original 3.3 that came in the Slayer got all messed up when the rear bearing went. Now I'm more pro-active at changing it. I don't bother with the expensive high end options cause they don't seem to last that much longer. The 3.3 should of been a "big block"/normal .21 crankcase size. A larger rear bearing wouldn't have this issue.
Yeah they're pretty anemic and the reciprocating mass is quite a bit more but with a good quality European or Japanese made bearing it's not really usually a problem after that. I usually change em after the first gallon. My buddy is running Acer ceramic bearings in his 3.3 and it's been great! I have a set in my 2.5R as well. But if you want really good steel bearings SKF bearings from Sweden 🇸🇪 been using em for years now without any problems
Just another “quality” Traxxas product 😅
- She’s in good hands with you Bug. Keep us updated on the fun 🩷
Haha yeah no kidding! Was just talking to another chap who left a comment having the same issue except the outer bearing race in the rear was loose in the block. Will be more later 😎
@@thebug4046 Oh. That’s no good. Bearing or block issue?
@@a2rc im assuming block or the bearing seazed to the crank at one point and spun it in the block
lol paper towel boy
Guy was a nut bar lol
You ran it to lean and burned your motor 😮😅😅😅
Nope haha it was also a used engine that we got from someone else. It was running as normal then started to get louder and louder and then stopped.
How many gallons on the bearings do you think
About a gallon if I had to guess. The guy I got it from Jay'p RC took very good care of it like all his stuff. I have seen this happen a handful lately. A high quality set of bearings should solve this problem 💯
@@thebug4046 yes I think I'm going to invest in some ceramic bearings next time.
I just took a 3.3 apart and the inside bearing was spinning in the block. I've never had that happen before.
@@michaelgraham2943 yup! That's a problem. When you order from Acer make sure it says engine bearing! Before you buy. Because they sell bearings of the same size that are not for engine use. Or order from AVID
@@thebug4046what about the fast eddies engine bearings? Are those good?
@@PerfectBiscuits they used to be. They have gone up in price and down in Quality. I haven't ran them in a few years so I'm not sure how they are now. If I want steel bearings I run SKF bearings from Sweden or if I want ceramic I run AVID or Acer ceramic bearings
Stick the seized engine in some modern marvel mistory oil over night then dry off and then apply tourch heat the out side of the block while in a vise and turn crank shaft nut with crescent while engine still hot. Works almost every time. Wish a real car engine was as easy to free up 😅🫡😉💯👍👌✌️
We don't have that stuff here but I'm gonna make a video on how to unstick it with just basic stuff and heat