Maybe not perfect but an excellent attempt and10x better than a machined finish. thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. You are a perfectionist and so obviously you are a little disappointed, but to mere machinists like us it is exceptional.
I like lapidary if i want a mirror finish. Here i made my own cheap 3d printed lapidary machine that can put a mirror finish really fast! th-cam.com/video/RUSikPTz3Oo/w-d-xo.html
Maurizio this tool produces a far better finish than a fly cutter so i wouldn't be disappointed very nice precise work with a great use of all those home made improvements and ingenious tools.
Love your work, not sure why you’re disappointed!? I find the result an enormous step forward from the normal finish you get from a fly cutter. A little extra effort polishing and you have your mirror 👍
thank you very much Donald Yes the piece comes out very smooth and with a felt wheel and a bit of paste it would be immediately very shiny, but it is still an added work
I work in a Coining Mint. One of the best tools I used is a carbide burnishing tool. For lubrication I use candle wax. A final buff with white polishing paste or Simachrome . Why this is useful for me is to preserve the metal and it slightly hardens the surface, Very cool tool.
I cannot believe it! Your original ball bearing tool was amazing and I wondered if a milling variant would be practical for flat surfaces. Amazing! Let's keep collaborating. I'll have the idea, you have the idea as well, and then turn it into reality! As a team we are unbeatable! 😂
@@Mauri59g Thank you for doing such a great job at turning our idea into reality! I'm sure you have had the idea yourself already, but I think such a unique tool deserves a proper tool-setting device! I'm thinking something like a micrometer body that can be mounted in the tool post. It would give you a way of applying constant pressure to each ball so you could measure any deviations as you adjust the bearings. Just in case anyone is starting to wonder, I'm just kidding about the collaboration. Maurizio conceived of this beautiful device all on his own. It is very clear that he doesn't need any help from me!! 😁
Mauricio. Siempre me alegro al ver un nuevo video tuyo. Un trabajo perfectamente ejecutado, no siempre resultados son como pensamos. En cualquier caso eres un genio. Un saludo.
Great work 👏 Don’t know if someone already suggested but you can use only single bearing bal , like a fly cutter, know for its exceptional finish . You lathe tool works on the single point principle too.
Thank you very much Sdrc , however the piece comes out without roughness and with the felt brush and paste it is immediately shiny. I tried to change parameters but it is the tool itself that has limits and if I increase the pressure it works better on the plane but then deforms the entry and exit from the piece being worked. With a double pass at 2 cents the brightness increases but the scratching of the working border increases.
I wouldn’t be too disappointed, after all you are not polishing the metal but rather ultra flattening it with hard roller balls. Compare this to a fly cutter or a surface grinder and your approach is still way ahead. Thanks for sharing your work.
Salve Maurizio, il risultato sarà pure diverso da quello che ti aspettavi, ma comunque credo che sia un buon lavoro. Non essere troppo severo con te stesso e riparti subito con la versione 2, la attendiamo presto. Bravo complimenti
Hello Maurizio, I like this smooth surface. If I wanted it even smoother, I bought a mirror. Optics is not everything. Your tool creates functional advantages. This is due to the fact that residual pressure stresses are generated, which in turn reduce tensile stresses on the surface during a bending load. This could, for example, improve the fatigue strength of leaf springs. Greetings, Falkoni
Thank you very much Falk , yes the piece comes out very smooth and with a simple pass with the brush and paste it is immediately shiny, then as you say, the surface hardens and therefore the tool is useful.
Yes, hardness through work hardening is another advantage. I had mentioned the creation of compressive residual stresses on the surface to improve the bending fatigue strength, which might sometimes be helpful.
With a ball end mill. Drill holes thru the top not all the way thru. So the ball is captured. The rest is the same. Including reaming from the top side to fit the ball perfectly. The ball is retained by the bearing. There is room for felt oiled plugs in the upper holes to keep the bearing on lubed. I like your thinking.
Thanks Wayne, I understand what you mean, but in my way it is much more fluid, look, the rotation is already perfect now. I have however identified its irreversible criticality, the crests left by the fly cutter do not have the same parallelism of the path made by the spheres, therefore a continuous overlapping and not a stretching of the crests in their original grooves
Magnificent job thanks for sharing, and i loved how you micced the dims and showed them to the camera a simple but very clear thing to do. I just found your channel today you got a new sub..
Buongiorno, mi sembra che la rugosità sia migliorata drasticamente. Neanche in rettifica si arriva a rugosità così basse. Ottimo lavoro spiegato sempre benissimo. Grazie!
It also highly depends on the material, e.g. aluminum is difficult to get perfect with diamond tools, because of inclusions of the alloy metals used, while copper results in excellent surfaces with diamond tools, because it is really uniform.
Thank you very much Gans, yes I agree with you, this used is cold rolled base steel, the least suitable for a shiny surface because it deforms too much, however this tool was designed to flatten construction steel and it would be used for that, I can't make a copper structure. It must be said that being deprived of roughness, with a simple felt wheel and paste, it immediately becomes shiny
It was a real pleasure to watch you make this. I know you're disappointed but "perfect" is an elusive goal and the reality is this provides a surface finish that is much, much better than you could ever get with a cutter. Plus, it's very convenient to use, just put in the tool and make your finishing passes, no need to otherwise change your setup. All in all this is beautiful work and an excellent video. Thanks for sharing it.
Thank you very much kglesq, dear, in fact the piece comes out very smooth and with a simple pass with a felt brush and paste, it immediately becomes shiny.
Wiper inserts are available for both turning and milling. th-cam.com/video/rXqoEdXXZqs/w-d-xo.html One of the issues with roller burnishing is the inconsistent surface that is left behind, even though it is superficially shiny. Some metals are also pressure sensitive and do not fair well under high surface stress or mechanical pressure, for example 316 stainless steel will literally break away in to tiny flakes leaving something of a pitted surface (never hammer the stuff down when sitting it in a vice). To obtain perfection one would normally turn or mill followed by a secondary treatment such as surface grinding. In a tertiary step one could also perform anodic levelling which is a process commonly used in finishing surgical instruments for operating theatres in hospitals. The home hobbyist/machinist can with some knowledge and practise obtain mirror flat surfaces that are accurate or distortion free out to many tens of meters by way of grinding belt and abrasive polishes (see 3M Trizact products for super fine any size grinding/sanding belts and Menzerna polishing compounds for final polishing).
@@CATANOVA The steel used is S355 structural steel with a low carbon content and particularly suitable for deformation. The pressure exerted is just enough to stretch the crests of the fly-cutter into its adjacent slot. The one obtained is the best result without incurring uncontrolled deformations. Increasing the pressure results in better surface brightness but problems of crushing and therefore flatness arise. This video and this tool is aimed at small hobby laboratories that you cannot compare with industrial processes, they have nothing to do with it. Should the metal on the vice be beaten? certainly yes ... the non-professional vice, when it tightens, slightly raises the piece so it must be put back in the correct position. The small hobbyist, cannot take a small piece and take it to third parties for science fiction processes, he has to make do and spend as little as possible. Bye
@@Mauri59g I only comment because I have spent a lot of time doing this kind of work. It is better to machine and then belt sand in order to achieve flatness. One can also use engineering services to have any work ground flat which I believe is a cost effective process rather than specialist although some volume is required rather than turning up with just one or two small parts. Burnishing is a process that needs very high pressure in order to bring the metal in to plastic deformation for it to work. One of the problems with it is inconsistent pressure on a surface that has a stepover and also edge deformation. A simple test for flatness with a burnished face is to block sand some 600 wet and dry paper over it to see what you get. Chances are the metal will look like the thighs of a +40 year old woman in terms of that classic cellulite ripple effect:) Another method of achieving flatness could be to perform 'scraping' however more of a lost art these days since it was mainly used on manual machine tool ways. It will not produce a anywhere near a mirror finish but things will be flat on average along with good oil retention in the pattern that is left behind which is kind of the point of the process where two large flats need to slide over each other with minimal clearance and a friction reduction membrane of sorts when it comes to the oil. On the hammering of metal one can simply swap out steel hammers for plastic or similar dead blow versions which will completely eliminate shock or point loading which is the cause of pitting, particularly with the aforementioned stainless steel. Also when you clamp stainless steel in a vice, putting a bit of paper or some other material in between the jaw faces and the part can help prevent pitting. I know this because I chased my tail for many months thinking my supplier was sending me sub par material that easily pitted when in fact it was mechanical damage by the operator. Metals are indeed sensitive to pressure where the effects show up on finished part particularly anything with large mirror finished surfaces. Do not beat the stuff up with a hammer, do not burnish it but instead cut it with the sharpest tools possible and then lightly grind and stroke it through to the desired finish. Shot peening is another process a bit like burnishing when you think about it, where this can add a compressive layer of strength by way of work hardening to a part such as engine connecting rods, but high degrees of flatness or overall finish appearance isn't required here. Your tool will have an application however one can achieve flatter and more mirror like with a belt sander. Nice tool build BTW 👍🙂
@@CATANOVA I'm not saying you're wrong, of course, it's your profession and you will have developed every system to the best of your ability, I say that you continue to speak at an industrial level, which has nothing to do with tiny workshops under your house. the belt sander is not perfection, you know very well that the leading edge is rounded, but visually it respects the same striation and little is seen, if the sander is not professional (we always come back to that) this defect increases exponentially, the result is beautiful but it is not mirror-like. Coming from the nautical sector I am very clear about the difference, a stainless steel tube even if well satin-finished, in a short time collects ferrous sediments contained in sea water that cling to the micro-grooves of the metal and create superficial rust, while the same mirror-polished tube will maintain its shine for years. In any case, I was the first to not be satisfied with this tool and I also say it in the video, but I like to create new objects, these may or may not be liked, it's normal. By the way, the hammer has only a ferrous core, the strikes are made of Nylon, and if you pay attention, first I squeeze lightly, then I hit, and only then I squeeze hard. See you next time bye
Thank you very much Вл п, when no sphere is under pressure, the machine relaxes and when retracting at each turn it would suffer very strong shocks, perhaps a heavy machine would be needed that is not affected by the lack of compression.
Bello il "rullatore" per piani anche se temo servano sfere di diametro più grande o rulli a "botticella" ; notevole la conversione del tornio in fresa anche se approfitterei delle colonne per un vetro di sicurezza su guide che scorra su e giù. Complimenti per il canale che non conoscevo, iscritto 👍.
Very nice work. Don’t be disappointed that you didn’t get the results you expected. How about trying that tool with some polishing compound on the surface?
Greetings Mauricio. Congratulations on the effort and work you put in to achieve the precision of the tool. Try to put that tool in the drill on the tool holder and the piece you are processing (polisher) in the chuck of the lathe, in order to get centrifugal relief of the piece you are processing.
Thank you very much Milorad I don't think it can work because working in this way the tool would come out and come back in at every rotation of the piece, the entry is the most stressful moment and it would repeat at every turn
Felicitaciones, excelente trabajo, para mí funciona bastante bien aunque tienes razón es muy complicado de fabricar. Una pregunta ¿qué pasa si el material tiene una forma irregular o agujeros?¿deforma los bordes?
Muchas gracias Manuel , evidentemente sirve al mismo nivel y si mantienes esta presión máxima de 2 céntimos lo superas todo como a la entrada de la pieza.
I think this could be done a different way less expensive and easier. 1) use a single angular contact bearing. This will assure that the balls are coplanar by using one fly-cut and polished plane as a bearing race. 2) polish the seats in the plate holding the balls. Should cut the machining time by 3x and remove the need for 5th axis tooling, or even a mill, or even most of the precision machining. 3) replaceable polished bearing plate wear faces and maybe tungsten carbide balls would make this tool last longer.
Thanks Not, your method is simpler but it changes the approach of the spheres a lot. the spheres would roll at half the tool speed. the spheres rolling would have no friction and this only causes crushing but not plastic deformation. After three days that I made this tool, many have tried to remake it in your method, like "Machinist" but the results are very poor.
Perhaps trying it with a single ball would work better. Having a single contact point could substantially improve the result. (cheap fly cutter vs a cheap milling head with multiple inserts). Maybe also using an adjustable pretension system that keeps a constant force on the workpiece which could compensate for workholding and offset positioning inaccuracy.
Thank you very much Incomprehensiblue, a single sphere exiting the piece would create pressure imbalances that you would violently find at each entry, pressure compensators yes but it would be at a non-hobbyist level
Great tool. The result is very good. This is cold rolled Steel, so you have differend hrc inside the material. You see it with the longitudinal stripes. Making a mirror you need a roughness smaller than 0,1 micron.With this Machinery you get around 1 my. Try this with relaxed 4140 (42CrMo, 1.7225).
Thank you very much Imba, yes I have already tried with C40 steel and I must say that the result is not perfect but it improves a lot. It improves because it is a less deformable steel and therefore the fly cutter leaves less roughness, this obviously leads to a better final result. But the purpose of this tool is to polish structural pieces and for this reason "soft" steel is used
I would also like to compliment you on your cleanliness. It takes a disciplined person to clean as they work even when they are excitedly turning their inspiration into reality! Perhaps you would get a better result with a thicker work piece. Perhaps your test pieces were flexing under the deformation pressure? I think you got excellent results though!
Thanks again Paul, the metal does not bend since it is as big as the vice, but it could be improved by using a less "soft" steel that undergoes less plastic deformation.
Complimenti per l'idea. Dico la mia sulla base di quelle 4 cose in croce che ricordo. Il risultato finale è più opaco che lucido forse per un problema di velocità angolare. A differenza del rullatore montato in torretta (risultato perfetto), dove è il pezzo a ruotare e l'utensile sta fermo. qui è il contrario quindi o aumenti il numero dei giri del tornio o, ancora meglio, costruisci un utensile dal diametro maggiore con un numero maggiore di sfere di modo da aumentare in modo significativo il numero dei passaggi sulla superficie del pezzo. Anche la pressione esercitata dalle sfere sulla superficie potrebbe essere un fattore che migliora la finitura. Ancora complimenti.
Grazie tante Diensalis, dopo tante prove credo di avere capito il vero problema. Manca il parallelismo tra la traiettoria sfere e le creste- cave da stirare
Ciao, complimenti per l'idea. Sostutendo le sfere con altre di acciaio più duro ed aggiungendo della pasta brasiva non si avrebbe una superficie meno opaca?
Grazie mille Nicola, l'aggiunta della pasta non l'ho provata, ma all'interno selle sedi sfera ci verrebbe un bel pasticcio. Comunque penso di avere capito il male oscuro di questo utensile, ossia il non parallelismo delle creste/cave da deformmare rispetto alla traiettoria delle sfere.
Thank you very much Gyro, the piece still comes out smooth and with a simple polishing with a felt wheel and paste it immediately becomes very shiny, it doesn't do it directly and this bothers me, but it's as you say, you have to accept compromises.
Muito obrigado MrSuwds, sim na realidade a peça sai muito lisa e com uma roda de polir e um pouco de pasta vira imediatamente um espelho, mas é necessário mais processamento. Para enganar eu poderia ter feito isso às escondidas e mostrar uma peça bem brilhante, mas teria trapaceado.
Exelente trabajo Maurizio impecable como siempre y el acabado que deja es exelente. E encargado en aliexpres una regla digital y un metro de cinta magnética como la que usted mostró anteriormente. Me a dicho un colega que no tienen gran presicion por que son para herramientas de trabajos en madera espero que no sea así pues me a costado bastante. Ansioso de que llegue para probarla y ver que resultado me da. Saludos Maurizio.
Muchas gracias Eliseo , las tiras ópticas ciertamente tienen mayor resolución, pero esta magnética ya es muy buena. Instrumento, lector y banda magnética 36 euros, no cuesta mucho.
Así es Maurizio no son tan costosas pero aquí en Argentina nuestra moneda no vale nada. También hay que pagar un 75 por ciento del valor del producto en aduanas
Congratulations on the quality video and your creativity. I have been following you for some time and I can say that you are one of my favorites channel. Your last video is impresive and thats why I have a big request from you. Can you, please, give me permission to try on my channel to simplify your tool ? Of course, I will mention your name in the video. Thank you !
Great tool. Could be, the one-sided support of the ball bearings tend to yield, deflect under the high pressure so the real pressure is not high enough?
Thank you very much Torte, no the tool can withstand very high pressures, but if I increase it by a few cents the shine improves but deforms the entry and exit of the piece being worked on.
Leonardo, you are far too demanding of yourself! I think the finish is magnifico! Damn, I wish you lived next door to me! ....Chow! Wakodahatchee Chris
Aaaah, the good old ball burnishing tool... Nice... I find that to be a bit of a dumb tool, as it essentially does the similar thing to a fly-cutter... I have heard of those being thought of as a potential replacement for oil retention scraping, where you set the tool and the travel in a manner that gives a grooved finish, rather than a mirror smooth surface, but there it imparts positive deformation that rises the material around the grooves made, thus requiring another operation thereafter to achieve a flat surface with grooves... I won`t get into all about it, but generally, other than as a very cool idea, i see little real benefit to this tool in specific... Tho, i`ll give you the credit where credit is due - your piece looks and is made very very well! When i saw the thumbnail, i thought at first that you were making a small revolver for the lathe, what with the side features and holes in the face... A small one to be sure, but that is how it looked to me at first... Best regards! Steuss
Thank you very much camillo But it is not as you think, the fly cutter works on the plane by removing metal and by doing this it creates crests and cavities that can be micrometric or centesimal based on the quality of the workmanship....these "spheres" do exactly the opposite, they do not remove anything but simply crush the crest in the next cavity and if the crushing compromise is correct a smooth plane comes out. (plastic deformation) It looked like a gun..... in fact in Italian I called it a drum, exactly like the drum of the gun, but 60mm with 12 bullets would have been a very large gun, not a small one.
@@Mauri59g Yeah, i know how it works, indeed, it is a different principle, one shears the material off, where the other ``irons`` it out, but for all intents and purposes, i was speaking of the similarity of the tools as such... Generally, for a mirror finish, i prefer the lapping methods, be it bore lapping or plane lapping... And indeed, if were a a weapon drum, that would have been A GUN for sure... Cheers!
@@camillosteuss But talking to you I understood why this tool will never be able to work at 100% when a ball tool works on the round, it crushes the crests in progression following the same track, so the result is uniform. working on a plane, the spheres do not find the same progression because the previous work is wider, smaller or even reversed, and the spheres do not continue on the same track.
@@Mauri59g Yeah, the tool is cool as fuck, no doubt about it, quite similar to lathe single ball burnisher tool, but ultimately, being a ball it always imparts a sort of a groove(in accordance to it`s radius)... A lathe can utilize that to ``move`` the material at ridiculously fine feed and thus get a relatively uniform finish due to rigidity of the system, just as it would with a radius cutter... It is also tricky, as it can ``eat`` junk off of the surface, or any bits that get dislodged from the worked material, all of which can get stuck in the ball clearance, causing issues... I suppose that you could use the lathe single ball burnisher on a shaper, as there the ball would deflect the tool sideways, but it would smoosh the ``sidewall`` of the previous pass, driving it a bit further, but it would still require quite the large ball and quite the large machine to get a very good approximation of ``flatness`` ... A mill with the spinning tools is a bitch on the other hand, getting deflection, crossing finish, most likely interrupted ``cut`` which bounces the tool around, vibrations in the ram or whatever carries the head and so on... Not just that, but not relying on V-ways like a lathe, it is more likely to wiggle about under pressure of this tool, where a lathe will be under constant pressure, thinning the film of oil between the bed-ways and carriage, but remaining mostly ``level`` and resisting vibration left to right that a moving dovetail would allow for... But i would be most interested about a supreme finish with this tool being compared in corrosion resistance with an identical alloy, identical piece but done with a flycutter for example... Cutters, as you know, produce a ``rough`` surface that allows water molecules to collect in and exacerbate the rusting... This tool on the other hand irons the surface, closing the pores so to speak, so it would be most interesting to compare mirror finish of the two tools in that regard... It`s one of the reasons why naval rifle barrels in the bygone past were polished smooth - the finer the finish, the less geometry for moisture to collect... Kind regards and all the best! Steuss
@@camillosteuss I confirm Coming from the nautical sector, it is very clear to me how important a good mirror finish is because even stainless steel, if it is not perfectly mirrored, will be subject to ferrous sediments that sea water is abundant in, especially in ports, and rust will arrive inexorably. You are a very knowledgeable person, congratulations and good continuation! Maurizio
Мне очень понравилось. Великолепно. Теперь Вы можете много.Например делать опорные подшипники. Опорные подшипники под пружину автомобильной стойки Мак Ферсон.
That's steel you finished with it at the end correct? That thing has major implications for smoothing steel. You did that with no abrasives. It's a safe way to put a fantastic finish on large parts without having to take more material off or use abrasives inside your machine. I think you need to refine it and see if you can get that mirror but it already has lots of uses as it is for removing tool pattern marks. One thing to try, it might work a little better if it doesn't contact all the way around? Maybe just one side touching for the pass might produce a more single directional reflective polish just like going in one direction does with sandpaper.
Thank you very much Advil yes the piece comes out smooth and with a brush and a bit of paste it immediately becomes shiny. yes you hit the nail on the head, in fact it doesn't work 100% because the path of the spheres is not always parallel to the crests to be ironed
I love your machine tools and admire your skill. To eliminate the need for precision machining and get a more accurate tool, did you consider using an off-the-shelf ball thrust bearing with one raceway removed. A keeper would still be required to hold the caged balls in place. With this design the raceway is driven not the balls. Cheers.
Thank you very much John , yours is a system to try. However, I have come to the conclusion that the problem comes from the lack of parallelism between the crests left by the fly-cutter and the track that the spheres follow, there is no continuity of crushing.
Thanks Darren , I don't know how to send it to you, I don't have a public email. It is incomplete in terms of measurements and some have been changed to use the materials I had at home
An interesting Tool ! Have you tried different Settings 1 - 2 passes ? Could it be that the 5 Balls create more Abrasion and transfer this to the Workpiece with the oil, making it dull ? Maybe Checking the Surface with a Microskope .. to understand what causes this almost perfect Result and i am in deep Respct your Tools and Ideas are "fantastico" 😉
Rigidity is essential when performing any high quality finishing including high pressure deformation. The tool would work best if it only protruded just past the spindle nose, maybe about 10mm and used with the spindle fully retracted.
Thank you very much Marley, yes I agree with you, but I have identified another irreversible criticality of this tool, in a few words, the small crests left by the fly-cutter do not correspond to the path of the spheres, so it is all a matter of overcoming and falling back and the ironing occurs in a disorderly way.
Perhaps having the balls on different radii would create a more random pattern. My single ball flat pattern burnishing tool is spring loaded, it protects the machine from being overstressed.
Thank you very much Engineering hacks your comment is intelligent. In fact I think I have understood the dark evil of this tool, that is the non-parallelism of the crests/cavities to be deformed with respect to the trajectory of the spheres.
Salve Maurizio seguo spesso i suoi video, perché anche io sono metalmeccanico, probabilmente la lucidatura e' in base al materiale che viene lavorato ..e credo che 3 sfere fossero sufficienti.provero' a farlo anch'io.. grazie..
Grazie tante Matteo, ok provaci, magari le tue idee lo fanno risultare più performante. Ma credo di aver individuato la criticità irreversibile di questo utensile, ovvero le creste lasciate dal fly-cutter non vengono copiate esattamente dalle sfere che seguono una strada diversa.
Buonasera Maurizio, grazie dell'ispirazione e del video eccellente. Mi chiedevo se montare le sfere su un supporto a tronco di cono, invece che cilindrico, e lavorare la superficie con l'asse di rotazione dell utensile inclinato rispetto all'ortogonale piano lavorazione, rendendo graduale l'ingaggio di ogni sfera, potesse migliorare la finitura. Cordiali saluti
Grazie tante Mic Bag, non so se ho ben capito ma le sfere sarebbero comunque allo stesso livello tra loro e non potrebbe essere altrimenti, non rispetteresti la planarità del pezzo. Ma credo di avere individuato la criticità irreversibile di questo strumento, ossia il mancato parallelismo tra le creste da stirare lasciate dal fly-cutter e la pista che seguono le sfere.
It doesn't make you a mirror, it strengthens the surface, adds hardness, you can wipe it with polishing paste and it will be more mirror-like than without such treatment on this steel.
Нет, нет , ничего я не путал. Без перемещения вашей головки по плоскости детали Вы получите поверхность контакта шарика, круг от сферы шарика радиусом вашего инструмента. Так делают опорные диски для опорных шариковых подшипников. Они встречаются в стойках передней подвески автомобилей. Мне понравилась ваша работа.
what is the difference if ran at different feed rates? i would like to see this same design but with conical rollers instead of spheres so it has a large flat contact point. though i guess the tool pressure at that point would be astronomical in comparison.
Merci beaucoup Crumpton l'avancement est très lent car la pression est faible, si j'augmente la pression la zone d'entrée se déforme. le rouleau conique n'est pas utile car l'écrasement est toujours effectué par la partie externe du même rouleau, mais avec plus d'angularité... si on arrondit la face du rouleau il remplit la même fonction que la sphère.
Closed caption translation much appreciated!
Thank you very much Nicolas , I'm very glad that it is understandable
Don't let perfection become the enemy of good
The results were very good, and a fantastic starting point to further polish from if required
Thank you very much Karl, in fact the piece comes out very smooth and with a simple pass with a felt brush and paste, it immediately becomes shiny
Maybe not perfect but an excellent attempt and10x better than a machined finish. thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. You are a perfectionist and so obviously you are a little disappointed, but to mere machinists like us it is exceptional.
Thank you very much Tom , your comment is very kind
I like lapidary if i want a mirror finish. Here i made my own cheap 3d printed lapidary machine that can put a mirror finish really fast! th-cam.com/video/RUSikPTz3Oo/w-d-xo.html
That was incredible! WOW! I am definitely more than impressed! I now find it very necessary to go watch your videos about the milling attachment!
Thank you very much Steve , dear!
Well, I don't know if I need this tool. But your skill and lathe setup is impressive!
Thank you so much CHM, you're very kind!
This has now become my favorite machining channel. Without failure, you will have no succes.. 👍💪💪
Nice words, thank you very much Thomas
Maurizio this tool produces a far better finish than a fly cutter so i wouldn't be disappointed very nice precise work with a great use of all those home made improvements and ingenious tools.
Thank you very much Graham, but yes the piece is smooth and with a polishing with felt and paste it is immediately shiny
@@Mauri59g по мимо вида , уплотнение поверхностного слоя
Love your work, not sure why you’re disappointed!? I find the result an enormous step forward from the normal finish you get from a fly cutter. A little extra effort polishing and you have your mirror 👍
thank you very much Donald
Yes the piece comes out very smooth and with a felt wheel and a bit of paste it would be immediately very shiny, but it is still an added work
I work in a Coining Mint. One of the best tools I used is a carbide burnishing tool. For lubrication I use candle wax. A final buff with white polishing paste or Simachrome . Why this is useful for me is to preserve the metal and it slightly hardens the surface, Very cool tool.
Thank you so much Paul, very kind!!
I had never thought about wax, good advice
Bonjour de France.
Cela paraît toujours aussi simple avec les explications.
Un grand merci de partager.
A la prochaine vidéo.
Bonne journée
Merci beaucoup, ce n'est absolument pas simple et l'utilisation de cet outil est un compromis très difficile à interpréter.
salutations à la France
Lei e' una persona veramente ingegnosa complimenti. Tutti i suoi attrezzi sono fantastici e funzionali bravissimo.
Grazie mille Michele, dammi del tu
I cannot believe it! Your original ball bearing tool was amazing and I wondered if a milling variant would be practical for flat surfaces. Amazing! Let's keep collaborating. I'll have the idea, you have the idea as well, and then turn it into reality! As a team we are unbeatable! 😂
Thank you very much Paul, any idea is good to work on.
@@Mauri59g Thank you for doing such a great job at turning our idea into reality! I'm sure you have had the idea yourself already, but I think such a unique tool deserves a proper tool-setting device! I'm thinking something like a micrometer body that can be mounted in the tool post. It would give you a way of applying constant pressure to each ball so you could measure any deviations as you adjust the bearings.
Just in case anyone is starting to wonder, I'm just kidding about the collaboration. Maurizio conceived of this beautiful device all on his own. It is very clear that he doesn't need any help from me!! 😁
Mauricio. Siempre me alegro al ver un nuevo video tuyo. Un trabajo perfectamente ejecutado, no siempre resultados son como pensamos. En cualquier caso eres un genio. Un saludo.
¡Muchas gracias Jose, querido!
eso sí, la pieza sigue saliendo lisa y con un pincel y pasta queda inmediatamente brillante.
Great work 👏 Don’t know if someone already suggested but you can use only single bearing bal , like a fly cutter, know for its exceptional finish . You lathe tool works on the single point principle too.
Thank you very much Van, I have tried several times to use the bearing directly without the ball or roller, but I have never had decent results.
Cosa devo dire, ho visto molti suoi progetti, non ho più parole, posso solo dire bravo bravo bravo complimenti.
Grazie tante Lorenzo, gentilissimo!
A brilliant video Maurizio, most entertaining. Many thanks for sharing - and Subscribed! 👍
Thank you so much Stephen, you're very kind!
Complimenti, molto onesto anche con i risultati. Ti meriti un follow.
Grazie mille Diego, si il risultato è questo.
Rispetto! Ottimo lavoro!
Grazie mille Walter
Perhaps more passes and experimenting with different pressures? I think you might need a random orbital patter to receive a true mirror like finish
Thank you very much Sdrc , however the piece comes out without roughness and with the felt brush and paste it is immediately shiny.
I tried to change parameters but it is the tool itself that has limits and if I increase the pressure it works better on the plane but then deforms the entry and exit from the piece being worked.
With a double pass at 2 cents the brightness increases but the scratching of the working border increases.
I wouldn’t be too disappointed, after all you are not polishing the metal but rather ultra flattening it with hard roller balls. Compare this to a fly cutter or a surface grinder and your approach is still way ahead. Thanks for sharing your work.
Thank you so much Petermarsh, very kind!
in fact the piece comes out very smooth and with a simple felt brush and paste it is immediately shiny
Pěkné, velmi inteligentní a šikovný pán.
Děkuji mnohokrát Stanislav , Drahý!
Salve Maurizio, il risultato sarà pure diverso da quello che ti aspettavi, ma comunque credo che sia un buon lavoro. Non essere troppo severo con te stesso e riparti subito con la versione 2, la attendiamo presto. Bravo complimenti
Grazie mille Francesco, ma si, è liscio e con una lucidata a feltro e pasta ed è subito lucido
Hello Maurizio, I like this smooth surface. If I wanted it even smoother, I bought a mirror. Optics is not everything. Your tool creates functional advantages. This is due to the fact that residual pressure stresses are generated, which in turn reduce tensile stresses on the surface during a bending load. This could, for example, improve the fatigue strength of leaf springs. Greetings, Falkoni
Thank you very much Falk , yes the piece comes out very smooth and with a simple pass with the brush and paste it is immediately shiny, then as you say, the surface hardens and therefore the tool is useful.
Yes, hardness through work hardening is another advantage.
I had mentioned the creation of compressive residual stresses on the surface to improve the bending fatigue strength, which might sometimes be helpful.
The result is very impressive! Thanks.
Thank you very much Dynamix , the instrument is well made but the functioning is a little less so.
With a ball end mill. Drill holes thru the top not all the way thru. So the ball is captured. The rest is the same. Including reaming from the top side to fit the ball perfectly. The ball is retained by the bearing. There is room for felt oiled plugs in the upper holes to keep the bearing on lubed.
I like your thinking.
Thanks Wayne, I understand what you mean, but in my way it is much more fluid, look, the rotation is already perfect now.
I have however identified its irreversible criticality, the crests left by the fly cutter do not have the same parallelism of the path made by the spheres, therefore a continuous overlapping and not a stretching of the crests in their original grooves
Good experiment, very creative idea worth the effort even though the result was not perfect. BRAVO!
Thank you very much Warren, dear!
Magnificent job thanks for sharing, and i loved how you micced the dims and showed them to the camera a simple but very clear thing to do. I just found your channel today you got a new sub..
Thank you so much Robert, very kind!
Buongiorno, mi sembra che la rugosità sia migliorata drasticamente. Neanche in rettifica si arriva a rugosità così basse. Ottimo lavoro spiegato sempre benissimo. Grazie!
Grazie mille Emanuele, si è molto liscio e con facilità si potrebbe lucidare a specchio, ma è un'altra operazione
It also highly depends on the material, e.g. aluminum is difficult to get perfect with diamond tools, because of inclusions of the alloy metals used, while copper results in excellent surfaces with diamond tools, because it is really uniform.
Thank you very much Gans, yes I agree with you, this used is cold rolled base steel, the least suitable for a shiny surface because it deforms too much, however this tool was designed to flatten construction steel and it would be used for that, I can't make a copper structure. It must be said that being deprived of roughness, with a simple felt wheel and paste, it immediately becomes shiny
Canale fantastico scoperto solo ora! Sei bravissimo e hai delle bellissime idee!! P.s. Sono tornitore…ovvio che copierò tutto 😂
Grazie mille Francesco,. di tutti gli strumenti che ho fatto, questo è il più problematico da usare.
Nothing short of incredible!
Thank you so much Mikeiver, you're very kind!
Bravo, strumento eccellente, un abbraccio dal Brasile.
Grazie tante Leonardo, ma anche tu "Guidi"
saudações aos brasileiros
It was a real pleasure to watch you make this. I know you're disappointed but "perfect" is an elusive goal and the reality is this provides a surface finish that is much, much better than you could ever get with a cutter. Plus, it's very convenient to use, just put in the tool and make your finishing passes, no need to otherwise change your setup. All in all this is beautiful work and an excellent video. Thanks for sharing it.
Thank you very much kglesq, dear, in fact the piece comes out very smooth and with a simple pass with a felt brush and paste, it immediately becomes shiny.
Wiper inserts are available for both turning and milling. th-cam.com/video/rXqoEdXXZqs/w-d-xo.html
One of the issues with roller burnishing is the inconsistent surface that is left behind, even though it is superficially shiny. Some metals are also pressure sensitive and do not fair well under high surface stress or mechanical pressure, for example 316 stainless steel will literally break away in to tiny flakes leaving something of a pitted surface (never hammer the stuff down when sitting it in a vice).
To obtain perfection one would normally turn or mill followed by a secondary treatment such as surface grinding. In a tertiary step one could also perform anodic levelling which is a process commonly used in finishing surgical instruments for operating theatres in hospitals.
The home hobbyist/machinist can with some knowledge and practise obtain mirror flat surfaces that are accurate or distortion free out to many tens of meters by way of grinding belt and abrasive polishes (see 3M Trizact products for super fine any size grinding/sanding belts and Menzerna polishing compounds for final polishing).
@@CATANOVA The steel used is S355 structural steel with a low carbon content and particularly suitable for deformation.
The pressure exerted is just enough to stretch the crests of the fly-cutter into its adjacent slot.
The one obtained is the best result without incurring uncontrolled deformations.
Increasing the pressure results in better surface brightness but problems of crushing and therefore flatness arise.
This video and this tool is aimed at small hobby laboratories that you cannot compare with industrial processes, they have nothing to do with it.
Should the metal on the vice be beaten? certainly yes ... the non-professional vice, when it tightens, slightly raises the piece so it must be put back in the correct position.
The small hobbyist, cannot take a small piece and take it to third parties for science fiction processes, he has to make do and spend as little as possible.
Bye
@@Mauri59g I only comment because I have spent a lot of time doing this kind of work. It is better to machine and then belt sand in order to achieve flatness. One can also use engineering services to have any work ground flat which I believe is a cost effective process rather than specialist although some volume is required rather than turning up with just one or two small parts.
Burnishing is a process that needs very high pressure in order to bring the metal in to plastic deformation for it to work. One of the problems with it is inconsistent pressure on a surface that has a stepover and also edge deformation. A simple test for flatness with a burnished face is to block sand some 600 wet and dry paper over it to see what you get. Chances are the metal will look like the thighs of a +40 year old woman in terms of that classic cellulite ripple effect:)
Another method of achieving flatness could be to perform 'scraping' however more of a lost art these days since it was mainly used on manual machine tool ways. It will not produce a anywhere near a mirror finish but things will be flat on average along with good oil retention in the pattern that is left behind which is kind of the point of the process where two large flats need to slide over each other with minimal clearance and a friction reduction membrane of sorts when it comes to the oil.
On the hammering of metal one can simply swap out steel hammers for plastic or similar dead blow versions which will completely eliminate shock or point loading which is the cause of pitting, particularly with the aforementioned stainless steel.
Also when you clamp stainless steel in a vice, putting a bit of paper or some other material in between the jaw faces and the part can help prevent pitting.
I know this because I chased my tail for many months thinking my supplier was sending me sub par material that easily pitted when in fact it was mechanical damage by the operator.
Metals are indeed sensitive to pressure where the effects show up on finished part particularly anything with large mirror finished surfaces. Do not beat the stuff up with a hammer, do not burnish it but instead cut it with the sharpest tools possible and then lightly grind and stroke it through to the desired finish.
Shot peening is another process a bit like burnishing when you think about it, where this can add a compressive layer of strength by way of work hardening to a part such as engine connecting rods, but high degrees of flatness or overall finish appearance isn't required here.
Your tool will have an application however one can achieve flatter and more mirror like with a belt sander.
Nice tool build BTW 👍🙂
@@CATANOVA I'm not saying you're wrong, of course, it's your profession and you will have developed every system to the best of your ability, I say that you continue to speak at an industrial level, which has nothing to do with tiny workshops under your house.
the belt sander is not perfection, you know very well that the leading edge is rounded, but visually it respects the same striation and little is seen, if the sander is not professional (we always come back to that) this defect increases exponentially, the result is beautiful but it is not mirror-like.
Coming from the nautical sector I am very clear about the difference, a stainless steel tube even if well satin-finished, in a short time collects ferrous sediments contained in sea water that cling to the micro-grooves of the metal and create superficial rust, while the same mirror-polished tube will maintain its shine for years.
In any case, I was the first to not be satisfied with this tool and I also say it in the video, but I like to create new objects, these may or may not be liked, it's normal.
By the way, the hammer has only a ferrous core, the strikes are made of Nylon, and if you pay attention, first I squeeze lightly, then I hit, and only then I squeeze hard.
See you next time bye
Good that you tried.. well done..
Thank you very much Peter, yes I tried but the result is the same
The performance is top notch as always. Try leaving one ball, it’s very interesting what the result will be 👍
Thank you very much Вл п, when no sphere is under pressure, the machine relaxes and when retracting at each turn it would suffer very strong shocks, perhaps a heavy machine would be needed that is not affected by the lack of compression.
Beautiful work! So glad I found your channel.
Thank you so much Neo7, Gentilissimo!
Mamma mia how many beautiful videos you make, I'll subscribe right away
Bello il "rullatore" per piani anche se temo servano sfere di diametro più grande o rulli a "botticella" ; notevole la conversione del tornio in fresa anche se approfitterei delle colonne per un vetro di sicurezza su guide che scorra su e giù. Complimenti per il canale che non conoscevo, iscritto 👍.
Grazie mille Pencil, potrebbe essere una idea, Gentilissimo!
Very well done Sir. Thank you for the video !!
Thank you very much Fortyeye, it is well done but has many limitations.
Ciao, secondo me in ogni caso è una splendida realizzazione, impegnativa sicuramente, resto sempre incantato dalla tua manualità.
Grazie Franco, si lo strumento è costruito bene e proprio per quello avrei pensato al meglio
Excellent tool, great build.
Thank you very much Kentucky, good execution, mediocre workmanship
Very nice work. Don’t be disappointed that you didn’t get the results you expected.
How about trying that tool with some polishing compound on the surface?
Thank you very much Mudnducs, yes of course as already said, but it is not the same thing, to obtain the desired result another operation is needed.
Greetings Mauricio. Congratulations on the effort and work you put in to achieve the precision of the tool. Try to put that tool in the drill on the tool holder and the piece you are processing (polisher) in the chuck of the lathe, in order to get centrifugal relief of the piece you are processing.
Thank you very much Milorad
I don't think it can work because working in this way the tool would come out and come back in at every rotation of the piece, the entry is the most stressful moment and it would repeat at every turn
Yes, I agree. In any case, serious work. Greeting
thanks for the video maurizio, maybe not the result you want, but with some diamond paste and little polishing you get the result you want.
cheers
ben
Thank you very much Ben, yes of course being smooth it can be easily polished, but you are polishing it with another tool and not with this one
Felicitaciones, excelente trabajo, para mí funciona bastante bien aunque tienes razón es muy complicado de fabricar. Una pregunta ¿qué pasa si el material tiene una forma irregular o agujeros?¿deforma los bordes?
Muchas gracias Manuel , evidentemente sirve al mismo nivel y si mantienes esta presión máxima de 2 céntimos lo superas todo como a la entrada de la pieza.
I think this could be done a different way less expensive and easier. 1) use a single angular contact bearing. This will assure that the balls are coplanar by using one fly-cut and polished plane as a bearing race. 2) polish the seats in the plate holding the balls. Should cut the machining time by 3x and remove the need for 5th axis tooling, or even a mill, or even most of the precision machining. 3) replaceable polished bearing plate wear faces and maybe tungsten carbide balls would make this tool last longer.
Thanks Not, your method is simpler but it changes the approach of the spheres a lot.
the spheres would roll at half the tool speed.
the spheres rolling would have no friction and this only causes crushing but not plastic deformation.
After three days that I made this tool, many have tried to remake it in your method, like "Machinist" but the results are very poor.
Perhaps trying it with a single ball would work better. Having a single contact point could substantially improve the result. (cheap fly cutter vs a cheap milling head with multiple inserts). Maybe also using an adjustable pretension system that keeps a constant force on the workpiece which could compensate for workholding and offset positioning inaccuracy.
Thank you very much Incomprehensiblue, a single sphere exiting the piece would create pressure imbalances that you would violently find at each entry, pressure compensators yes but it would be at a non-hobbyist level
I think the result is very good. One more similar, but polishing disc with felt and the mirror will be perfect.
Thank you very much Milan, yes good advice
Great tool. The result is very good. This is cold rolled Steel, so you have differend hrc inside the material. You see it with the longitudinal stripes. Making a mirror you need a roughness smaller than 0,1 micron.With this Machinery you get around 1 my. Try this with relaxed 4140 (42CrMo, 1.7225).
Thank you very much Imba, yes I have already tried with C40 steel and I must say that the result is not perfect but it improves a lot.
It improves because it is a less deformable steel and therefore the fly cutter leaves less roughness, this obviously leads to a better final result.
But the purpose of this tool is to polish structural pieces and for this reason "soft" steel is used
Ottima idea! Sarebbe da provare a montare le sfere a spirale....
Grazie mille Dario, a mio parere sarebbe una movimentazione troppo esasperata
Fantastico... Non ne sarei deluso...
Vado subito a vedermi il progetto della fresatrice.... Mi farebbe molto comodo da aggiungere al mio tornietto.
Grazie mille Enrico, ma si, il pezzo è liscio e con poco si può lucidare
I would also like to compliment you on your cleanliness. It takes a disciplined person to clean as they work even when they are excitedly turning their inspiration into reality!
Perhaps you would get a better result with a thicker work piece. Perhaps your test pieces were flexing under the deformation pressure? I think you got excellent results though!
Thanks again Paul, the metal does not bend since it is as big as the vice, but it could be improved by using a less "soft" steel that undergoes less plastic deformation.
Complimenti per l'idea. Dico la mia sulla base di quelle 4 cose in croce che ricordo. Il risultato finale è più opaco che lucido forse per un problema di velocità angolare. A differenza del rullatore montato in torretta (risultato perfetto), dove è il pezzo a ruotare e l'utensile sta fermo. qui è il contrario quindi o aumenti il numero dei giri del tornio o, ancora meglio, costruisci un utensile dal diametro maggiore con un numero maggiore di sfere di modo da aumentare in modo significativo il numero dei passaggi sulla superficie del pezzo. Anche la pressione esercitata dalle sfere sulla superficie potrebbe essere un fattore che migliora la finitura. Ancora complimenti.
Grazie tante Diensalis, dopo tante prove credo di avere capito il vero problema.
Manca il parallelismo tra la traiettoria sfere e le creste- cave da stirare
Ciao, complimenti per l'idea. Sostutendo le sfere con altre di acciaio più duro ed aggiungendo della pasta brasiva non si avrebbe una superficie meno opaca?
Grazie mille Nicola, l'aggiunta della pasta non l'ho provata, ma all'interno selle sedi sfera ci verrebbe un bel pasticcio.
Comunque penso di avere capito il male oscuro di questo utensile, ossia il non parallelismo delle creste/cave da deformmare rispetto alla traiettoria delle sfere.
Ual que linda ferramenta e que acabamento maravilhoso parabéns 💯💯💯🇧🇷
Muito obrigado Wesley, muito gentil!
Looks like you have something here, maybe just have found the perfect application? I like it though! Nice work.
Thank you very much James, yes the tool is well built but it could work better.
превосходный результат, великолепная идея
спасибо Loki
It is a cold forging process, that increases surface harndess.
Thank you very much Debrainwasher, yes the surface compacts and increases the hold.
Does this work-harden the surface of the metal or otherwise improve its mechanical characteristics?
Thank you Paul , yes of course the crushing of the crests results in better surface resistance.
Hello Maurizio! Good to see you working on this crazy new tool . . . sorry it did not work as well as you hoped, but that's life eh?
Thank you very much Gyro, the piece still comes out smooth and with a simple polishing with a felt wheel and paste it immediately becomes very shiny, it doesn't do it directly and this bothers me, but it's as you say, you have to accept compromises.
Il risultato non è quello che ti aspettavi, ma secondo me l' utensile ha comunque la sua utilità. Bel video!
Grazie mille Alessandro, diciamo che per renderlo veramente lucido serve una mola di feltro e un pò di pasta.
@@Mauri59g Era quello che pensavo anch'io, adesso dopo aver tolto tutte le asperità sarà facilissimo.
beautiful tool thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙂👍
Thank you very much Stringmanipulator
Milling attachment is very clever.
Thank you very much Vandal's , the idea is clever, but then the reality is that it is a very difficult tool to use and does not make the finish shiny.
Получилась отличная гладилка :)
Спасибо Ramulus , гладится очень хорошо, но блестит не так, как хотелось бы.
Pode não deixar a superfície refletiva como espelho. Mas serve para aumentar a dureza das superfícies.
Parabéns pelo belo trabalho.
Muito obrigado MrSuwds, sim na realidade a peça sai muito lisa e com uma roda de polir e um pouco de pasta vira imediatamente um espelho, mas é necessário mais processamento.
Para enganar eu poderia ter feito isso às escondidas e mostrar uma peça bem brilhante, mas teria trapaceado.
Exelente trabajo Maurizio impecable como siempre y el acabado que deja es exelente. E encargado en aliexpres una regla digital y un metro de cinta magnética como la que usted mostró anteriormente. Me a dicho un colega que no tienen gran presicion por que son para herramientas de trabajos en madera espero que no sea así pues me a costado bastante. Ansioso de que llegue para probarla y ver que resultado me da. Saludos Maurizio.
Muchas gracias Eliseo , las tiras ópticas ciertamente tienen mayor resolución, pero esta magnética ya es muy buena.
Instrumento, lector y banda magnética 36 euros, no cuesta mucho.
Así es Maurizio no son tan costosas pero aquí en Argentina nuestra moneda no vale nada. También hay que pagar un 75 por ciento del valor del producto en aduanas
Congratulations on the quality video and your creativity. I have been following you for some time and I can say that you are one of my favorites channel. Your last video is impresive and thats why I have a big request from you. Can you, please, give me permission to try on my channel to simplify your tool ? Of course, I will mention your name in the video. Thank you !
Thank you very much JIMMY , yes of course, let me know when you publish it.
@@Mauri59g I will. Thank you sir !
@@Mauri59g Hello Maurizio. I published the video inspired by your tool. Thank you !
Great tool. Could be, the one-sided support of the ball bearings tend to yield, deflect under the high pressure so the real pressure is not high enough?
Thank you very much Torte, no the tool can withstand very high pressures, but if I increase it by a few cents the shine improves but deforms the entry and exit of the piece being worked on.
Leonardo, you are far too demanding of yourself! I think the finish is magnifico! Damn, I wish you lived next door to me! ....Chow!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Thanks so much Chris, in fact with a simple brush and paste it is immediately brilliant
Complimenti!
Grazie mille Massimo
Very cool tapping head
Thank you very much Dave, if it worked 100% it would be better.
Aaaah, the good old ball burnishing tool... Nice... I find that to be a bit of a dumb tool, as it essentially does the similar thing to a fly-cutter... I have heard of those being thought of as a potential replacement for oil retention scraping, where you set the tool and the travel in a manner that gives a grooved finish, rather than a mirror smooth surface, but there it imparts positive deformation that rises the material around the grooves made, thus requiring another operation thereafter to achieve a flat surface with grooves... I won`t get into all about it, but generally, other than as a very cool idea, i see little real benefit to this tool in specific... Tho, i`ll give you the credit where credit is due - your piece looks and is made very very well! When i saw the thumbnail, i thought at first that you were making a small revolver for the lathe, what with the side features and holes in the face... A small one to be sure, but that is how it looked to me at first...
Best regards!
Steuss
Thank you very much camillo
But it is not as you think, the fly cutter works on the plane by removing metal and by doing this it creates crests and cavities that can be micrometric or centesimal based on the quality of the workmanship....these "spheres" do exactly the opposite, they do not remove anything but simply crush the crest in the next cavity and if the crushing compromise is correct a smooth plane comes out. (plastic deformation)
It looked like a gun..... in fact in Italian I called it a drum, exactly like the drum of the gun, but 60mm with 12 bullets would have been a very large gun, not a small one.
@@Mauri59g Yeah, i know how it works, indeed, it is a different principle, one shears the material off, where the other ``irons`` it out, but for all intents and purposes, i was speaking of the similarity of the tools as such...
Generally, for a mirror finish, i prefer the lapping methods, be it bore lapping or plane lapping...
And indeed, if were a a weapon drum, that would have been A GUN for sure...
Cheers!
@@camillosteuss But talking to you I understood why this tool will never be able to work at 100%
when a ball tool works on the round, it crushes the crests in progression following the same track, so the result is uniform.
working on a plane, the spheres do not find the same progression because the previous work is wider, smaller or even reversed, and the spheres do not continue on the same track.
@@Mauri59g Yeah, the tool is cool as fuck, no doubt about it, quite similar to lathe single ball burnisher tool, but ultimately, being a ball it always imparts a sort of a groove(in accordance to it`s radius)... A lathe can utilize that to ``move`` the material at ridiculously fine feed and thus get a relatively uniform finish due to rigidity of the system, just as it would with a radius cutter...
It is also tricky, as it can ``eat`` junk off of the surface, or any bits that get dislodged from the worked material, all of which can get stuck in the ball clearance, causing issues...
I suppose that you could use the lathe single ball burnisher on a shaper, as there the ball would deflect the tool sideways, but it would smoosh the ``sidewall`` of the previous pass, driving it a bit further, but it would still require quite the large ball and quite the large machine to get a very good approximation of ``flatness`` ...
A mill with the spinning tools is a bitch on the other hand, getting deflection, crossing finish, most likely interrupted ``cut`` which bounces the tool around, vibrations in the ram or whatever carries the head and so on... Not just that, but not relying on V-ways like a lathe, it is more likely to wiggle about under pressure of this tool, where a lathe will be under constant pressure, thinning the film of oil between the bed-ways and carriage, but remaining mostly ``level`` and resisting vibration left to right that a moving dovetail would allow for...
But i would be most interested about a supreme finish with this tool being compared in corrosion resistance with an identical alloy, identical piece but done with a flycutter for example... Cutters, as you know, produce a ``rough`` surface that allows water molecules to collect in and exacerbate the rusting... This tool on the other hand irons the surface, closing the pores so to speak, so it would be most interesting to compare mirror finish of the two tools in that regard... It`s one of the reasons why naval rifle barrels in the bygone past were polished smooth - the finer the finish, the less geometry for moisture to collect...
Kind regards and all the best!
Steuss
@@camillosteuss I confirm
Coming from the nautical sector, it is very clear to me how important a good mirror finish is because even stainless steel, if it is not perfectly mirrored, will be subject to ferrous sediments that sea water is abundant in, especially in ports, and rust will arrive inexorably.
You are a very knowledgeable person, congratulations and good continuation!
Maurizio
Мне очень понравилось. Великолепно. Теперь Вы можете много.Например делать опорные подшипники. Опорные подшипники под пружину автомобильной стойки Мак Ферсон.
Спасибо, но мне кажется вы спутали это с другим видео
That's steel you finished with it at the end correct? That thing has major implications for smoothing steel. You did that with no abrasives. It's a safe way to put a fantastic finish on large parts without having to take more material off or use abrasives inside your machine. I think you need to refine it and see if you can get that mirror but it already has lots of uses as it is for removing tool pattern marks. One thing to try, it might work a little better if it doesn't contact all the way around? Maybe just one side touching for the pass might produce a more single directional reflective polish just like going in one direction does with sandpaper.
Thank you very much Advil
yes the piece comes out smooth and with a brush and a bit of paste it immediately becomes shiny.
yes you hit the nail on the head, in fact it doesn't work 100% because the path of the spheres is not always parallel to the crests to be ironed
molto bene una perfezione che soddisfa comunque. BRAVO!
Grazie mille Amos, si certo
I love your machine tools and admire your skill. To eliminate the need for precision machining and get a more accurate tool, did you consider using an off-the-shelf ball thrust bearing with one raceway removed. A keeper would still be required to hold the caged balls in place. With this design the raceway is driven not the balls. Cheers.
Thank you very much John , yours is a system to try.
However, I have come to the conclusion that the problem comes from the lack of parallelism between the crests left by the fly-cutter and the track that the spheres follow, there is no continuity of crushing.
Hurray! My favorite Italian!
Thank you very much Daniel
Excellent sir. Very informative. I see you designed in freecad. Do you have the file for share?
Thanks Darren , I don't know how to send it to you, I don't have a public email.
It is incomplete in terms of measurements and some have been changed to use the materials I had at home
An interesting Tool !
Have you tried different Settings
1 - 2 passes ?
Could it be that the 5 Balls create more Abrasion and transfer this to the Workpiece with the oil, making it dull ?
Maybe Checking the Surface with a Microskope .. to understand what causes this almost perfect Result
and i am in deep Respct your Tools and Ideas are "fantastico" 😉
Thank you very much Backi, in fact the opacity could be the effect of the oil that remains trapped, interesting
Szanowny Maurizio wyszło bardzo dobrze ,może zmiana kulek poprawi błysk.
Dziękuję bardzo Tadeusz, to byłoby zbyt proste
Rigidity is essential when performing any high quality finishing including high pressure deformation. The tool would work best if it only protruded just past the spindle nose, maybe about 10mm and used with the spindle fully retracted.
Thank you very much Marley, yes I agree with you, but I have identified another irreversible criticality of this tool, in a few words, the small crests left by the fly-cutter do not correspond to the path of the spheres, so it is all a matter of overcoming and falling back and the ironing occurs in a disorderly way.
Sei comunque un GRANDE
Grazie mille Monikuccia
Perhaps having the balls on different radii would create a more random pattern. My single ball flat pattern burnishing tool is spring loaded, it protects the machine from being overstressed.
Thank you very much Engineering hacks
your comment is intelligent.
In fact I think I have understood the dark evil of this tool, that is the non-parallelism of the crests/cavities to be deformed with respect to the trajectory of the spheres.
Salve Maurizio seguo spesso i suoi video, perché anche io sono metalmeccanico, probabilmente la lucidatura e' in base al materiale che viene lavorato ..e credo che 3 sfere fossero sufficienti.provero' a farlo anch'io.. grazie..
Grazie tante Matteo, ok provaci, magari le tue idee lo fanno risultare più performante.
Ma credo di aver individuato la criticità irreversibile di questo utensile, ovvero le creste lasciate dal fly-cutter non vengono copiate esattamente dalle sfere che seguono una strada diversa.
Sono impressionato dall’originalità dei tuoi progetti. Bravissimo👍🏼
Grazie mille MIKY, anche se questo ha qualche lacuna
@@Mauri59g Sono sicuro che quando meno te lo aspetti troverai l’upgrade giusto 😉
Grand Grandson of Leonardo da Vinci !
Thanks Michael, Leonardo was a genius, I'm just a hobbyist
Complimenti per il lavoro svolto e grazie al suo ingegno il risultato è PERFETTO !!!!!!!!
Grazie mille Tre Assi
try with carbide ball bearings maybe.
Thanks a lot Parçala, I might try but I don't think that's the problem, these spheres were not damaged
Muy interesante, gracias desde michigan, estados unidos
Muchas gracias Kevin
Saludos a Michigan
Buonasera Maurizio, grazie dell'ispirazione e del video eccellente. Mi chiedevo se montare le sfere su un supporto a tronco di cono, invece che cilindrico, e lavorare la superficie con l'asse di rotazione dell utensile inclinato rispetto all'ortogonale piano lavorazione, rendendo graduale l'ingaggio di ogni sfera, potesse migliorare la finitura. Cordiali saluti
Grazie tante Mic Bag, non so se ho ben capito ma le sfere sarebbero comunque allo stesso livello tra loro e non potrebbe essere altrimenti, non rispetteresti la planarità del pezzo.
Ma credo di avere individuato la criticità irreversibile di questo strumento, ossia il mancato parallelismo tra le creste da stirare lasciate dal fly-cutter e la pista che seguono le sfere.
It doesn't make you a mirror, it strengthens the surface, adds hardness, you can wipe it with polishing paste and it will be more mirror-like than without such treatment on this steel.
Thank you very much Hibah, exactly as you say.
Maurizio, bravissimo. Grazie
Grazie tante Ramp.
Another great tool.
Thanks a lot Outback Shed , this is just a good tool but not a great one
Nice work. You didn't Show before using the rolls. Maybe you get a better result, if you Mill it finer before rolling. You make good work ❤
Thank you very much Hüsnü, yes indeed it could improve a lot, but above all with a harder material
@Mauri59g you are a good man. You Show the worst case, not the best case.
Salve Maurizio! Perfetto!
Grazie Владимир, non è perfetto ma grazie ugualmente
@@Mauri59g, Mi skusi, дальше по-русски.
Не скромничайте, отличная работа! Всегда интересны Ваши затеи. Возможно, сделаю такое себе. Успехов!
Guter Mann !!!!!!!👍👍👍👍
Vielen Dank God
Beau travail bravo
Merci beaucoup Cassius
Нет, нет , ничего я не путал. Без перемещения вашей головки по плоскости детали Вы получите поверхность контакта шарика, круг от сферы шарика радиусом вашего инструмента. Так делают опорные диски для опорных шариковых подшипников. Они встречаются в стойках передней подвески автомобилей. Мне понравилась ваша работа.
Спасибо Алуда , теперь я понимаю, извините, но перевод этого не предполагал.
Вы абсолютно правы, я об этом не подумал, еще раз спасибо
It's a good attempt even when it's not perfect.
Thank you very much Kenzo, yes it is smooth and with a pass of felt wheel and paste it immediately becomes a mirror.
Have you tried it on Aluminium or Brass ???
Thanks Graham, I've never tried it, I will
what is the difference if ran at different feed rates? i would like to see this same design but with conical rollers instead of spheres so it has a large flat contact point. though i guess the tool pressure at that point would be astronomical in comparison.
Merci beaucoup Crumpton
l'avancement est très lent car la pression est faible, si j'augmente la pression la zone d'entrée se déforme.
le rouleau conique n'est pas utile car l'écrasement est toujours effectué par la partie externe du même rouleau, mais avec plus d'angularité... si on arrondit la face du rouleau il remplit la même fonction que la sphère.