About the economy, I have just recently finished rebuilding my 1980 mini 1000 (so the 998cc engine), I stripped down the engine and rebuilt it myself having had a full rebore and unleaded conversion, as well as the head being professionally cleaned out for better flow of gases etc. I consistently average around 45mpg, which I was extremely impressed with seeing as I don't drive carefully! This is calculated by using GPS for the mileage and filling the tank from brim to brim. Having said this, it's going to change WHEN I supercharge it...
My Wife and I have an R53 and an R60 as daily drivers. I bought the R53 new back in 2006 and can't bring myself to part with it. We love the new MINIs, and I know that makes some classic Mini enthusiasts cringe. However, due to these new MINIs we are both itching to get our hands on a classic Mini. This video is unbelievably informative. Thank you for the info! I can't wait until the day we have one of our own.
for carb powered 1275, there was only a cooper S, and non cooper or cooper S 1275 ws only injection (because the normal 998 wasn't able to keep up with the powerful fuel pump that the engine overheated, and blew up because of the richer fuel mixture.
20:53 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'v always been told its perfectly normal to see white smoke from the exhaust for the first 5-10 minutes after starting in cold wether, this is caused by condensation in the engine and exhaust system, witch is slowly turning in to steam and mixing with the exhaust gasses.
Yes thats correct however thats technically not smoke its steam. White smoke won't quickly dissipate in the same way that the steam/condensation will. In addition that white smoke physically behaves differently than the steam would, and it would have that sweet smell I mentioned. I probably should have been more clear in the video.
I think your paying the standard 998 a disservice, the 998 A+ is a cracking engine, they really take off at higher revs, a stage 1 kit brings the power up. Stick a bigger head and high lift cam on them. And you'll be up-to 60hp. More than enough for these. My car also gets about 250 miles out of a single tank of fuel
Things to add if you do part 3. Condition of Engine mounts & shift mount, and checking the radiator for rust Etc by sticking your finger in the top and feeling around on top of the fins and of course what to expect in the test drive. Great video by the way
Great video Cole! I didn't know that about the main bearing. Always saw that little cotter pin while under my car and had no idea why it had a little oil on it.
Happy to help! It's kind of a crappy job because of all the stuff in between it and the outside of the motor but if its leaking, you'll want to fix that sooner rather than later. :-)
Btw, that cotter pin is there just to help the oil exit the clutch housing by giving it something to follow through the hole - keeping the leak from contaminating the clutch. That's why the pin is always a little loose and doesn't actually seem to hold anything.
I have a shegged 998 engine with a gearbox that has seen better days, if you are polite it goes into 2nd smoothly, if you are racing someone you just have to accept the gear crunch and get back on the loud pedal 😄 oh and remember to hold it in 2nd gear or it pops out!
I'm searching for a used one here in Greece, regularly, but my knowledge is still limited. So when they write 1300cc its not true? Every one of those cars are 1275 cc, even those of the latest production? It 's kind of a desire for me to own a mini and daily drive it. I think you should enjoy these cars. But they don't share info like if you have A series or A+ or the 1070cc engine. They would type 1100cc or 1000cc.
Is that a 1.75" carb? I bought a Mini in April and I'm starting the Odyssey... I recently removed the heater (thanks for the video!) Anyway this carb looks way different than mine. It's got the side float and it it definitely lacks the big air filter you've got. I was in the engine bay earlier removing the headers and exhaust and I noticed there was just a big hole on the left where it took in air. Is this normal with my 1.5" carb? I looked around on minisportusa and I didn't see anything resembling that air filter. Thanks man I'm going to watching all your videos for sure and you've already helped a lot.
Hey Jeff, yup the carb in this video is a 1.75. This is a modern version of an SU carburetor called an HIF44. Most likely the one on your car if its a single carb is probably an HS4 or HS2. They are similar only difference really is the size of their inlet. The big old hole you are referring to, could you send a picture?(classicminidiy@gmail.com) I am not sure I can picture what you are referring to.
I would have mentioned in the oil pressure conversation that the checks should be made with the engine at normal working temp. as oil pressure is always higher with the oil cold. Maybe in this video your temp. gauge was not working? Also. why no choke cable?
im looking at a mini now, i didn't run it but the gear leaver feels sloppy, it wobbles around when in gear almost as much as it does in neutral, is this a big problem?
The mini gear shifts are inherently a bit less "firm" than most cars I have driven, but that said, there are a few things that can cause sloppiness in that shifter. 1. If it is a Remote Shift Gearbox, there is a small plastic cup that sits at the base of the actual shifter lever, where it meets the shift housing.(right in the hole in the floor) These often break over time and have to be replaced. Super easy fix. www.7ent.com/products/bushing-remote-shift-lever-22g0389.html?af=cmdiy1959 2. If its a Rod Change Gearbox, there is a similar bushing made of metal which can be replaced quite easily as well. www.7ent.com/products/bushing-rod-change-housing-shift-selector-extension-rod-stf0014.html?af=cmdiy1959 3. If its a Remote Shift or Rod Change, it may not be properly mounted at the back end of the shift housing to the body of the car. This is also relatively commonplace as things wear out. This can be confirmed by getting under the car and looking at where the shifter passes through the floor of the car. It should be mounted to the body right behind the shifter. Hope this helps! Cole
The amount of time to remove the engine x 2. :-D But in all seriousness pulling the motor in these cars is actually pretty easy when compared to pulling a motor in a newer car. I would say if you have never pulled a motor before, you could expect around 1-2 weeks to prep and remove the existing motor and then another 3-4 weeks for installation, re-timing, tuning, etc of the new motor. This is barring any snags with fitment of the new motor(which you will most definitely run into haha). I would anticipate around 2-3 months all said and done if its your first time. Hope that helps!
Hi there would you recommend this as a first car (I don't plan on modifying it) I would love to keep it as original as possible.thanks for the good video!
I have mixed emotions on this personally. The mini is incredibly simple to work on and tinker with, however, they aren't the safest cars and most people's first cars tend to take a beating one way or another. I think that you would be very happy in a mini if you don't mind tinkering and working on it to keep it running and operating at tip top shape. If you aren't into doing a lot of maintenance I would probably not recommend for a first car. Hope that helps! :-)
I am 6'1" and with a very slight modification to the seats I fit just fine. Honestly I would have fit fine without the mods but it just makes it more comfy.
These carbs are interchangeable between the blocks. Block size wont limit you regarding the carb you get. However getting something like an HIFF44 for the 850 might be overkill. :-)
Hi! I am looking at buying my first mini and have to say that this is a great video! learned a lot! I still have a two question for you if that's ok? :) First, I live in New Zealand (quite hilly and highway speed of 100Kmh which is roughly 62mph). So I am looking at which engine would suit me as I would do highway frequently and if a 998cc would be enough or if that will feel too small to do highway? Secondly, I saw an add (www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1255238232) where the guy says that the car "slips out of 1st gear sometimes", does it mean the first gear could be damage? and how serious is that? Thanks! :)
Hey! Congrats on getting your first mini soon. :-) I wouldn't go any smaller than a 998cc. I would wager maintaining 62ish would still be challenging especially on hilly roads but I don't think it would be unbearable or anything like that. Regarding the 1st gear slippage my guess is it could be two things, one it might be the gear selector fork which moves the gear into place when you shift gears. Sometimes that becomes loose as it gets used, over the years and doesn't hold the gears into the engaged position. The part: www.7ent.com/products/shift-fork-first-second-gear-1973-on-dam7425.html If that isnt the problem the gear itself could have excessive wear and is allowing it to slip out. Either way the engine would have to be pulled and you would need to decouple the transmission and engine block for assessment. Keep in mind this is all jsut best guesses, hard to say for sure without seeing the car in person. Hope that helps! :-)
Pretty major repair for sure. You could do the work without tackling the top end of the motor but the motor would have to get pulled for either job regardless. Would be an excellent learning experience!
looking to buy a mini in Sri Lanka. all are 1960 but without the door hinges on outside. Anyway i love your channel. P.S : i think your mike is bad. i'm on full volume and the sound is on the low end.
Hey as far as I know the mk1 which is what 1960 would have been do not have internal hinges. If they had sliding windows they had external hinges. Thanks for the heads up on the microphone situation. I didn't realize it was so bad until about a month ago and fixed my microphone settings. New videos should not have problems like this in the future.
well no sliding windows either from the looks of it, ikman.lk/en/ad/austin-mini-cooper-1960-for-sale-kandy-9 ikman.lk/en/ad/mini-cooper-1960-for-sale-gampaha-35
Those two you linked there are most definitely later model minis. post 80's if I took a wild guess. You can tell by front grille not having the "moustache" chrome trim. The interior having the non-center gauges is a big tell as well.
Thanks! I was worried if I went too deep into all the sizes it would get confusing. I'm kinda of thinking about making a buyers guide part 2.5 and covering more engine stuff.
850 was a 848cc and the 1070 was a 1071cc engine. The 970, 1071 and 1275 Cooper S engines had the same bore but different strokes. So the 970S was a really good revving engine.
About the economy, I have just recently finished rebuilding my 1980 mini 1000 (so the 998cc engine), I stripped down the engine and rebuilt it myself having had a full rebore and unleaded conversion, as well as the head being professionally cleaned out for better flow of gases etc. I consistently average around 45mpg, which I was extremely impressed with seeing as I don't drive carefully! This is calculated by using GPS for the mileage and filling the tank from brim to brim.
Having said this, it's going to change WHEN I supercharge it...
don't forget the 997 and the 970S!
My Wife and I have an R53 and an R60 as daily drivers. I bought the R53 new back in 2006 and can't bring myself to part with it. We love the new MINIs, and I know that makes some classic Mini enthusiasts cringe. However, due to these new MINIs we are both itching to get our hands on a classic Mini. This video is unbelievably informative. Thank you for the info! I can't wait until the day we have one of our own.
for carb powered 1275, there was only a cooper S, and non cooper or cooper S 1275 ws only injection (because the normal 998 wasn't able to keep up with the powerful fuel pump that the engine overheated, and blew up because of the richer fuel mixture.
20:53 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'v always been told its perfectly normal to see white smoke from the exhaust for the first 5-10 minutes after starting in cold wether, this is caused by condensation in the engine and exhaust system, witch is slowly turning in to steam and mixing with the exhaust gasses.
Yes thats correct however thats technically not smoke its steam. White smoke won't quickly dissipate in the same way that the steam/condensation will. In addition that white smoke physically behaves differently than the steam would, and it would have that sweet smell I mentioned. I probably should have been more clear in the video.
I think your paying the standard 998 a disservice, the 998 A+ is a cracking engine, they really take off at higher revs, a stage 1 kit brings the power up. Stick a bigger head and high lift cam on them. And you'll be up-to 60hp. More than enough for these.
My car also gets about 250 miles out of a single tank of fuel
Things to add if you do part 3. Condition of Engine mounts & shift mount, and checking the radiator for rust Etc by sticking your finger in the top and feeling around on top of the fins and of course what to expect in the test drive. Great video by the way
These are great suggestions. I might do a part 2.5 and cover a bit more info. I struggled to squeeze it all in this episode.
Great video Cole! I didn't know that about the main bearing. Always saw that little cotter pin while under my car and had no idea why it had a little oil on it.
Happy to help! It's kind of a crappy job because of all the stuff in between it and the outside of the motor but if its leaking, you'll want to fix that sooner rather than later. :-)
Btw, that cotter pin is there just to help the oil exit the clutch housing by giving it something to follow through the hole - keeping the leak from contaminating the clutch. That's why the pin is always a little loose and doesn't actually seem to hold anything.
Great sequel to Part 1. Thanks for the pix for those of us just learning!
I have a shegged 998 engine with a gearbox that has seen better days, if you are polite it goes into 2nd smoothly, if you are racing someone you just have to accept the gear crunch and get back on the loud pedal 😄 oh and remember to hold it in 2nd gear or it pops out!
Had that myself, back in the day. Sadly, if it pops out when you back off the loud pedal, it usually means you need a new gearbox or a rebuild.
I would probably check the motor as soon as possible, if the owner has warmed it up before, as he may be trying to hide an engine that has problems.
I'm searching for a used one here in Greece, regularly, but my knowledge is still limited. So when they write 1300cc its not true? Every one of those cars are 1275 cc, even those of the latest production? It 's kind of a desire for me to own a mini and daily drive it. I think you should enjoy these cars. But they don't share info like if you have A series or A+ or the 1070cc engine. They would type 1100cc or 1000cc.
Hello.
I liked your video. I have an austin mini 1000, and I would like to put an air filter like that. Where I can buy?
Is that a 1.75" carb? I bought a Mini in April and I'm starting the Odyssey... I recently removed the heater (thanks for the video!) Anyway this carb looks way different than mine. It's got the side float and it it definitely lacks the big air filter you've got. I was in the engine bay earlier removing the headers and exhaust and I noticed there was just a big hole on the left where it took in air. Is this normal with my 1.5" carb? I looked around on minisportusa and I didn't see anything resembling that air filter. Thanks man I'm going to watching all your videos for sure and you've already helped a lot.
Hey Jeff, yup the carb in this video is a 1.75. This is a modern version of an SU carburetor called an HIF44. Most likely the one on your car if its a single carb is probably an HS4 or HS2. They are similar only difference really is the size of their inlet. The big old hole you are referring to, could you send a picture?(classicminidiy@gmail.com) I am not sure I can picture what you are referring to.
I would have mentioned in the oil pressure conversation that the checks should be made with the engine at normal working temp. as oil pressure is always higher with the oil cold. Maybe in this video your temp. gauge was not working?
Also. why no choke cable?
The cable I had broke and when I filmed this the new one was still en route to me. That said I have yet to install it. :-D
im looking at a mini now, i didn't run it but the gear leaver feels sloppy, it wobbles around when in gear almost as much as it does in neutral, is this a big problem?
The mini gear shifts are inherently a bit less "firm" than most cars I have driven, but that said, there are a few things that can cause sloppiness in that shifter.
1. If it is a Remote Shift Gearbox, there is a small plastic cup that sits at the base of the actual shifter lever, where it meets the shift housing.(right in the hole in the floor) These often break over time and have to be replaced. Super easy fix.
www.7ent.com/products/bushing-remote-shift-lever-22g0389.html?af=cmdiy1959
2. If its a Rod Change Gearbox, there is a similar bushing made of metal which can be replaced quite easily as well.
www.7ent.com/products/bushing-rod-change-housing-shift-selector-extension-rod-stf0014.html?af=cmdiy1959
3. If its a Remote Shift or Rod Change, it may not be properly mounted at the back end of the shift housing to the body of the car. This is also relatively commonplace as things wear out. This can be confirmed by getting under the car and looking at where the shifter passes through the floor of the car. It should be mounted to the body right behind the shifter.
Hope this helps!
Cole
is 90 00 miles a lot for 998ccm?
Im considering swapping my 998 engine for a 1275. How much work would it take todo?
The amount of time to remove the engine x 2. :-D
But in all seriousness pulling the motor in these cars is actually pretty easy when compared to pulling a motor in a newer car. I would say if you have never pulled a motor before, you could expect around 1-2 weeks to prep and remove the existing motor and then another 3-4 weeks for installation, re-timing, tuning, etc of the new motor. This is barring any snags with fitment of the new motor(which you will most definitely run into haha). I would anticipate around 2-3 months all said and done if its your first time.
Hope that helps!
Ross RS what happens if your in traffic and your mini runs out of gass or engine starts to break down.
i should say that the engine was originally from an A30~A35
you do have some real good vuese but the thing is> we english dont just see it in black and white, good work usa,
nice mk1 by the way! l love your color choice :)
Such a good vid man! keep it up!
Thank you!
Hi there would you recommend this as a first car (I don't plan on modifying it) I would love to keep it as original as possible.thanks for the good video!
I have mixed emotions on this personally. The mini is incredibly simple to work on and tinker with, however, they aren't the safest cars and most people's first cars tend to take a beating one way or another. I think that you would be very happy in a mini if you don't mind tinkering and working on it to keep it running and operating at tip top shape. If you aren't into doing a lot of maintenance I would probably not recommend for a first car.
Hope that helps! :-)
Thank you could you please do a video of a normal service? I subscribed!😀
Thank you could you please do a video of a normal service? I subscribed!😀
I have a few videos that cover some normal service items but I will do a special on servicing the car sometime for you. :-)
I would love the name of the model of steer you have ? been looking for a smaller one!
It's a momo steering wheel but I am not sure which model it is. I got it as a gift and its pretty used with no model on it. Sorry. :-(
Thanks anyway man ! :)
how tall are you? im 6'2, will i fit in a mini?
I am 6'1" and with a very slight modification to the seats I fit just fine. Honestly I would have fit fine without the mods but it just makes it more comfy.
Have you resprayed your Mini recently? Looks shinier now
Relatively recently around October/November I had a shop redo the whole front end and the roof.
Dude, THAAAAANKS!!!!! grate video!!!
👍🏼 🙂
I'm curious about what engine you have in your mini? as i know that the mini I will have has a 1275.
I have a 1275 over-bored to 1293. There's some other internal bits and bobs but not sure you want to hear about all that. :-P
Classic Mini DIY Ah yes, as I assume that you can only get a carburettor for those bigger engines or am I wrong?
These carbs are interchangeable between the blocks. Block size wont limit you regarding the carb you get. However getting something like an HIFF44 for the 850 might be overkill. :-)
keep it up mate! what price is a good price for a decent Mini Morris 1100 1976
Thanks! Really depends on the condition. You got any pictures?
I don't know if this link will work but here is the listing with pictures. www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1246401599
Hi!
I am looking at buying my first mini and have to say that this is a great video! learned a lot!
I still have a two question for you if that's ok? :)
First, I live in New Zealand (quite hilly and highway speed of 100Kmh which is roughly 62mph). So I am looking at which engine would suit me as I would do highway frequently and if a 998cc would be enough or if that will feel too small to do highway?
Secondly, I saw an add (www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1255238232) where the guy says that the car "slips out of 1st gear sometimes", does it mean the first gear could be damage? and how serious is that?
Thanks! :)
Hey! Congrats on getting your first mini soon. :-) I wouldn't go any smaller than a 998cc. I would wager maintaining 62ish would still be challenging especially on hilly roads but I don't think it would be unbearable or anything like that.
Regarding the 1st gear slippage my guess is it could be two things, one it might be the gear selector fork which moves the gear into place when you shift gears. Sometimes that becomes loose as it gets used, over the years and doesn't hold the gears into the engaged position.
The part: www.7ent.com/products/shift-fork-first-second-gear-1973-on-dam7425.html
If that isnt the problem the gear itself could have excessive wear and is allowing it to slip out. Either way the engine would have to be pulled and you would need to decouple the transmission and engine block for assessment.
Keep in mind this is all jsut best guesses, hard to say for sure without seeing the car in person. Hope that helps! :-)
Thanks for the fast reply!!
So it's seems like for either of your guesses it will be quite a major repair, is that correct?
Pretty major repair for sure. You could do the work without tackling the top end of the motor but the motor would have to get pulled for either job regardless. Would be an excellent learning experience!
Too late... I bought mine 2 days ago :P
Good problem to have. :-P
ha me too, what are you talking synchro, I thought they had no synchros
thanks this video was very helpful
Glad it helped!!
If I am allowed to correct you, the 1275cc, injected model, came also as non-Cooper with 53 hp and as Cooper with 63 hp
Thank you for the correction. There were so many dang versions of this motor I knew I would miss one or two.
Classic Mini DIY yeah there are so many 😂 but very nice video mate 👍
fantastic videos !!!!
Thanks!
looking to buy a mini in Sri Lanka. all are 1960 but without the door hinges on outside. Anyway i love your channel.
P.S : i think your mike is bad. i'm on full volume and the sound is on the low end.
Hey as far as I know the mk1 which is what 1960 would have been do not have internal hinges. If they had sliding windows they had external hinges. Thanks for the heads up on the microphone situation. I didn't realize it was so bad until about a month ago and fixed my microphone settings. New videos should not have problems like this in the future.
well no sliding windows either from the looks of it,
ikman.lk/en/ad/austin-mini-cooper-1960-for-sale-kandy-9
ikman.lk/en/ad/mini-cooper-1960-for-sale-gampaha-35
Those two you linked there are most definitely later model minis. post 80's if I took a wild guess. You can tell by front grille not having the "moustache" chrome trim. The interior having the non-center gauges is a big tell as well.
Classic Mini DIY thank you for the info, I'll keep that in mind when I go check out. Thanks again. ☺️
What gauges are those? 😍
Magnolia smiths gauges. So nice right? ♥️ I love the color so much.
Classic Mini DIY thanks! Agreed. Epic.
this video is sooooooooooooooooo helpful
Engines
850
970
997 ( early cooper )
998 ( special cooper really rare )
998
1070
1098
1275
Didi I miss one ?
Thanks! I was worried if I went too deep into all the sizes it would get confusing. I'm kinda of thinking about making a buyers guide part 2.5 and covering more engine stuff.
850 was a 848cc and the 1070 was a 1071cc engine. The 970, 1071 and 1275 Cooper S engines had the same bore but different strokes. So the 970S was a really good revving engine.
@@classicminidiy hi,make new buyer guide how to know what model it is from mk1-mk7..i was looking all over the Internet for it