There are so many self-proclaimed experts that it is so refreshing to listen to these clear, articulate lectures delivered by a a classical recording producer, and they chime so well with my own experience, not as an "audiophile" but as a music-lover.. Thanks.
@@PearlAcoustics Many thanks for this great video ! , making it very nice explained and intuitive. I have a question and I hope you can answer, Just got a very rare power amp ADCOM GFA555 MK2 Nelson Pass design, bought it from the US and it was new and never opened from the original box, so it was in the original manufacturer box for more then 20-25 years, all I can say It is sound amazing, it is connected in my setup to used ADCOM GFP565 pre amp , and now I explore very nice and chip tube pre amp Fosi audio tube P1 with GE5654 tubes by Riverstone audio the sound is incredible. So do you think should I replaced the electrolytic caps inside the power amp ? I have removed the top cover and the internals of course looks as new and I have the Bias been checked by me and is as specs . Thanks in advance
@@RanTausi Hi. What I am about to tell you is my ‘opinion’. And as such, do not want to proclaim myself as an expert, so please take it as that - an opinion. My rule is, if it sounds good, and there’s no buzzing, hissing or excessive cone movement when idle, then leave it alone and simply enjoy it. 20-25 years is not old for an amplifier of that quality. In the old days (pre-1980’s) - people used oil filled capacitors and they definitely had a habit of breaking down. But todays modern components (and I include amps of the last 20 years) are generally way better made. Do enjoy it and look after it. Best wishes - Harley
As many have said, you never stop learning. Such a pleasant voice. Extremely articulate, yet able to explain complex elements in a simple and elegant manner. Thank you for the video.
This is the first video so far which gave me a clear understanding of different types of amplifiers and sound reproduction. Very well explained and easy to understand for a newbie like me. Thanks you sir. Highly appreciated.
Top presentation, congratulations. You are gifted in not being overly technical and still bringing enough to the table, creating a very good understanding of the subject.
This was one of the best and easiest to listen to video about different amp types. I love the way how you describe by nature complex stuff only with your words and some metaphors, reducing things to wat‘s important to understand. Phenomenal!
Your little talk was as delightfully wonderful to listen to as I imagine any of the fancy pants pieces of audio gear you discus must indeed sound. Thank you for taking the time to explain the technical aspects behind these different conceptual approaches to audio amplification in such well thought out and appropriately paced way so that someone like myself could enjoy the whole video. I might never have taken the time otherwise. Very very good. Bravo. Subscribed.
You would love both the sound and exceptional build quality of the Yamaha AS-801 Integrated Amplifier!! I’ve auditioned quite a few of Amps and landed on this A/B Amplifier, rated at 100 High Current amps, this amp which can be had for $699.00 on sale, (originally priced at 899.00) sounds as close to that smooth tube sound for the money as anything. Mated with a pair of KLH Kendall Towers rated a 96db, the ease at which the pair produces recorded music is never fatiguing and just a joy to listen to for hours. I owned the wonderful sounding Luxman LV105u, Tube Integrated amplifier, which I lost, well really stolen from a dealer I took to for servicing 15 years ago. It was such a wonderful sounding amplifier and beautifully designed. Nothing in its price range, I paid 1200 for it new, that I purchased ever matched its warm signature…..until the Yamaha! I haven’t heard the Heigl, but it’s been a delight to have at my home, which is a relatively small space….perfect for music listening!! Another great video….Loved it!!!
A very well sorted brain in this head! Congratulations to be at such a good mental health, at this age! I really like listening to him and his absolute honest knowledge and experience of life!
Now I better understand the technical reasons for what I have oberserved in relation to the differences between A, AB and D. Informative and well articulated. Thankyou
Great video I used a Rotel ra921 from the year 2000 it sounds awsome and great with my debut carbon turntable I’m 27 and got started at 16 and been a Rotel user for 6 years and love thier stuff
Simply a delightful chat to offer the serious hifi and music enthusiast a primer on what to look for when they acquire a set of hifi. I chanced upon this channel today and it's now my default hifi channel. Thanks very much, Mr Lovegrove.
What a wonderful gift for young musicians, a gift that keeps on giving! Great video on amplifier types for those looking for one that may suit their needs!
I have several very good tube amplifiers but the ones that are in service all the time are the 20 dollar class D solid state ones. your video here is very helpful
A danish hi-fi magazine once made a test together with the danish Quad import whether they could hear the difference between a Quad system and a selected high end system. They could detect the difference but it was very difficult. Regarding design and quality of components, the Jean Hiraga “Le Monstre” was famous for it’s ability to play with almost every loudspeaker. It had so much power reserve that it continued playing long after the power was dis-connected.
Fascinating video. Whilst I am not greatly experienced or qualified in the art of sound reproduction I like the kit, I've got some, 70's stuff, Lecson, Revox, Leak 2075, and it sounded great!.. now it sounds like my telly with the bass up too high. I think nature has turned my top end filter to max.
Thanks for your kind comment. The lack of treble could be a bit of both? Aging capacitors and or tweeters (most likely tweeters) that can easily be replaced and aging ears, that prove a more challenging reality (although our brains are very good at compensating).
speaking of well made.. my American made McIntosh stuff is amazing, especially the C1100 pre-amp, but what takes that up a notch is the British made dCS Rossini with clock, and what takes that even up a notch is the Japanese made Accuphase DP-750 SACD player.. oh my God.. the sound of this stuff put together is just amazing.
Thanks for a very informative outline of amplifiers. We are all very lucky to have such a diversity of quality equipment to choose...to hopefully match the sound signatures that we personally want or would like to hear for our budgets. My favourite combination is to use a valve preamp and class d power amps. As class d power is very strong, neutral and highly efficient and then the tube pre allows (and can be further tuned) to provide a little more additional harmonic warmth and dimensionality and the sound can be further tweaked by rolling different tubes..which is fun. Sadly tube power amps for me are great but too expensive to run as good power tubes are often very expensive for the better ones. But you are right Chinese hifi gear is fab, often very well designed and built and very affordable...the only one small caveat regards warranties, service and support ..primarily due to location and logistical issues of course. But I have never had any issues or problems...after all many western brands are also made in China too. Thanks again and keep up the great work
I purchased a 600gbp 300b amp from China sounds xcellent... The price was the clincher... The mark ups on audio as soon as it hits the UK is laffable.. Guitar shops r usually cheaper than hi fi shops for repairs... Their no crap approach is good.. And they sell very cheap interconects £3.99
I'm happy with my NAD C388 its future orientated because it can up-grated by adding MDC Modules into the amp such as BluOS (streaming etc) for an affordable price meaning you don't need a separate streamer that cost much more.I did had all types of amps during the last 50 years and all sounded great(including a QUAD).However today the technology move much faster therefore I choose an integrated amp that can keep up when new technology is available.Beside that I always liked fast and dynamic amps.
Thank you for the great "infotainment". I really appreciate that you share your knowledge with the world, which is not self-evident. Knowledge is one of the most important things a person can have and this video is special of its kind. Were well made and it makes me feel that the world is getting a little friendlier and more cooperative again.
Thank you very much indeed. You’re very kind. I too believe that Sharing knowledge and kindness are two of the very most precious gifts one has to give.
@@PearlAcoustics I hope a political excursus is not misplaced on this TH-cam channel, but what makes me concerned is the war in Ukraine. Because I am a German, I feel especially distressed about the fact that the such a war of aggression happens again in Europe. But your videos always give me the notion of a collaborative European sprit, which is what I like about them so much.
The sound produced is ALL that matters, and there is a definite better or best choice when combining a speaker to an amplifier. Budget is the deciding variable, however, at a decent store, you should easily find several choices and combinations within said budget to choose from. You need to identify the speaker first, imho. Allocate 90% of your available money on the most expensive speaker that you can afford. The store will do everything necessary to show off every speaker in your price range. It's not complicated. Listen to every front end combination that they assemble (all components that you can afford later down the road). These combinations should be all tube front ends, all solid state front ends, and combinations of both. The system that sounds the best in whatever configuration brings you the greatest listening enjoyment, make that ultimate system your long-term goal. Buy the speakers first, and use the remaining money (10%) to buy a basic, inexpensive, used, integrated amp (ebay or from their consignment rack)) and a basic, inexpensive, used, CD player or a basic used turntable (whichever source material you collect) from ebay or their consignment rack. Listen to your music at home, enjoy your new speaker purchase, and begin to set aside money to purchase the amplification from the ultimate system that made these speakers sound wonderful to you. Buy it, plug it into your system at home, and celebrate the improved sound as you get closer to the ultimate system that prompted you to buy the speakers. Start saving money to purchase the source unit that prompted you to buy the speakers. Buy it, plug it into your system at home, and celebrate your achievement. Through discipline and a well designed savings effort, you have assembled the ultimate system that prompted you to buy the speakers. Move the inexpensive components into the bedroom or some other room, get some budget speakers, and enjoy some music in that space. Retail stores do not want you to go about it like this. They want you to trade up. Bring in stuff, take a loss on the trade-in, and buy the next level up. In the end, after several trade-up scenarios, you will have that ultimate system. However, between the losses you sustained on each trade-in, and the interest you paid on your credit card or whatever loan you used in this trade-up effort, you will have paid far more than you would have had you used the approach I described above. That money you lost in their trade-in program, the money that went into the pocket of the store owner, could have been used to buy more music. Just food for thought.
How does someone 'look' like an audiophile?.....but tbh you're right. Go to any tradeshow and it's old, grey men wall to wall, and that explains the type of music 'audiophiles' always seem to listen to and therefore the types of systems they rave about. I'd be very interested to listen to the views of someone with a more electic range of music interests.
@@mediapc4747 I listen to a lot of different genres myself. What do you imagine is different? I mean different genres, Death metal, EDM, Salsa, Punk, Brit Pop... etc. I personally wouldn't use a Sibelius. I much prefer the clarity of a 3-way. A good 3 Way can sound very coherent. But at the end of things, if we listen to death metal on a monophonic Bluetooth speaker, why a Sibelius should be discarded? At the end one would end up enjoying the music, quite frankly.
Thank you so much for this video and the others I have viewed thus far. I’m nearing 60 and been into music listening equipment for many years. It took me many years to find the right amplifier for my Quad ESL57s and only after living with the others (Quad ll’s, 303, Leak even a pair of Altec Lansing 1569A mono blocks) before hearing it all come right with the Radford STA25. My point is the exercise of finding the right amplifier can be a journey of many years of listening before you arrive at your musical bliss. Again, wonderful videos but they do have me wanting to hear those Sibelius speakers. They look beautiful. One point I might add is that although internal components have generally improved, I’d argue that many output transformers of yesteryear are equal to those of today.
Thank you for your kind appreciation. Agreed, some manufacturers were making very good output transformers. But even that technology has advanced in recent decades. But that does not necessarily mean ’sounding better’. Feel to contact us via our website to see if a listening session can be arranged. Enjoy your music and wonderful amplifier.
Another great talk from a UK perspective. Was waiting for you to get to damping factor which you did. I think the hard rock music of the late 60s/early 70s was a big push toward the AB amps. The MacIntosh amps (popular at the time) didn't handle heavy bass very well. Love these stimulating audio discussions - keep them coming.
In 1984 I bought a MOSFET Tandberg 3012. It's still running every day. Only had to clean the potmeters once. I listened to other amps afterwards, but just not worth it. It has a prepre for my AT 33 and that's a rare thing these days.
Most welcome to hear from a true professional on what is otherwise 'Hi-Fi bs'. I remember building a PA design by John Linsley Hood in the early '70s which provided up to 25W in Class AB but with adjustable pre-set quiescent current in the output pair which varied the proportion of Class A amplification - see Wireless World Magazine of July 1970. Its specification seems ideally suited to your definition of 'it's the first watt which counts'. Anyway, my recollection is that the amplifier sounded so good that my friends came round just to have a listen and one at least counted it as a reference standard! Sadly, the transistor pair specified was fairly frail and has long since been discontinued. Modern replacements may not be up to the mark.
Thanks for your kind words. Your amp sounded wonderful, I bet. However, I would not write off modern transistors, there are some really incredible products out there! Remember, when you built your amp, solid state transistors were still rather new technology 😉 time to rebuild it!
@@PearlAcoustics In a way, I have done so. My current equipment includes amplifiers with Power MOSFET output stages. I like to think of them operating like potentiometers where the speaker joins to the wiper which moves up and down (resistively speaking) at audio frequencies! Half way to tubes, don't you think? Changing subject slightly, there's a lot going for sensitive, wide range single speakers as in your design. If money has to be spent anywhere, then it is the speaker you need to address for quality of experience. If you have to revert to a multi speaker approach, there was once a Yamaha design which used electroststics for the mid/high range and a massive, high density slab of polystyrene (measured in square feet) for bass. It sounded pretty good. Brings a whole new world of meaning to 'plane wave'.
I stumbled onto your video's this evening. Thank you for putting them out and especially this video. Your analogies and especially how you summed things up right at the end are great! I look forward to more of your content.
Thank you so much for your good expert story without prejudice. Indeed, In China they can of course make good audio equipment. All value for money. A good Naim or Quad clone is not free there either. As a senior hard and software enthusiast, I chose to build a Krell KSA-50 class A clone myself because of the costs. However, passively cooled which turned out not to be easy. I set up the power supply a bit more modern than the original design. In addition, I built a Hiraga Le Monstre, only 8 to 10W per channel. Also class A. I provided the latter with an SMPS power supply instead of the dated original design. Well, I talk too long about myself instead of your excellent reviews: You evade any irrational dogma and rely on your professional knowledge. That's good in this world of disinformation. Thank you.
Hello Mr. Lovegrove, a real fine job you’re doing and “…..you took the words right out of my mouth…..” ;-) ! Congrats that’s pure audiophile realism and I wish that there would be more people like you in this business. ‘Cause there not much people which know that for example 0.5 Watt even on a 85 dB speaker means room volume. So remember Depeche mode : ”Everyone counts in large amounts” that is the poison in peoples lifestyle. Kind regards from Germany!
Excellent video, I really appreciate your private seminars/music and engineering lessons. I have shared it with my brother and a family friend as they are enjoying their hi-fi systems.
Good evening 🌺 from my humble country ❤️ the Philippines Mr Lovegrove... This is my second video for the day from Pearl Acoustics. Very informative easy to understand explanation of the types of amplifiers. My son just bought a NAD C338 or 388 from his Christmas bonus. I just bought a can of electronic contact cleaner and the baffless for my Coral 6CX will be done by Friday next week. It's a 98dB coaxial drivers and I am excited about hooking it up with what I think is a good baffles sporting a similar rectangular port like your speaker 🔊, my favourite Sibelius speakers. My favourite Class A integrated amplifier is the Musical Fidelity A-1 or A1X. I heard a brand new one 20 years ago and I am hesitant to buy a second hand ✋ unit because of its price (they are kinda pricey considering they are used units and I don't know its history) and how hot they operate but since I got a lot of education from you sir, I don't think I will be using beyond 2w/chan for the kind of speakers I have. The 86dB Celestion 1 I have when I put them in a box similar to your Sibelius is around 93dB because it plays loudly at pleasant levels. I don't crank the volume that much. I just played a direct to disc LP and my neighbor in front hum the melodic right up when I plan to change the record so I put the same LP and spin it back. Just an update, I made a similar box like your nice Sibelius instead of making an adjustable port as warmly suggested by my carpenter. He needs the extra cash to take his wife out for a simple dinner and grocery for the holidays.
Thanks for this class lesson, and I have a DIY soundbar with Technics AA class stereo integrated SU-VX600 amp and two Dynaudio experience 62 speakers horizonataly mounted, with WiFi streaming Tidal Spotify Mood etc and I can ours listening without coming tired !
Very informative and explained very elegantly my personal preference is class a valve amplification my amplifier is a kt 88 triode integrated utilising to KT 88 per channel and two preamplifier valves per channel. yes it is a Chinese amplifier, but it is very well built. Deathly silent and beautiful to look at. Needless to say I won’t be partying with it any time soon.
I subscribed to your excellent channel and greatly appreciate your effort to laymanize or simplify a lot of technical terms. Very refreshing indeed. So, you have a subscriber and avid fan from the Philippines. Wishing you all the best.
Good chat if a bit misleading. Class A and single ended are not the same thing, and in order to meet the transient requirements in some music for an average listening level of 1 watt, you would need 1000watts. Furthermore even order distortion is largely due to valve action not amplifier class. Enjoyable videos nonetheless.
Excellent video. I enjoy the long format. As you said, second hand amps should be tested on cheap speakers, PLUS be left running for hours to prove thermal stability.
A single-ended amp is always a class-a amp, it needs a lifted bias in order to swing both ways, but a class-a amp does not need to be single ended it can be push pull too. There is absolutely no difference between a class-a and a class a/b design, the only difference is with how much bias you are driving it. A class-b design is unsuitable for hifi use because you have x-over distortion like crazy, but if you just lift the bias by a little bit like half a watt or quarter of a watt the x-over distortions disappear. Now you are in class-a/b territory. Say you have an amp that can deliver 20 watts and you run it with 5 watts bias, then it is still a class-a/b amp even though it is very unlikely that you will ever run it above 5 watts. So within the limit of 5 watts it behaves exactly like a class-a amp. You can now lift it to 10 watts and it is still class-a/b. Only if you crank the bias up to it's maximum power it is called a class-a. The benefit of a class-a amp is not that is has a better distortion spectrum, there are class-a amps that distort terribly, thats a matter of design, the only real benefit is that your music is not putting any load on your power supply. You can build a class-a/b solid state amp that distorts beautifully like a tube with perfect K2.
Sir your video are like a fire side chat wonderful insightful brilliant extremely helpful thank you.your knowledge of recorded music is a blessing.peace a fan and a yank.
@@terrywho22 It's a home build. I found a box of NOS 6L6G tubes (Westinghouse Radiotron Made in Canada). Spent over a year studying tube amps then built one. Bought the power and OPTs from Hammond (in Ontario).
A terrific video. Thank you. I live in New Zealand and own one of Gary Morrsion's Pure Audio pre=amplifiers and rate it as highly as you rate his stereo power amp.
Very informant post. The questions will always rage - class A, AB, class D. Obviously AB reigns the roost. I would guess it is over 90% of the amplifier market (amps and receivers included). At any rate the far dominate option. Having said that they are pretty well defined and properly implemented probably define the standard. Class A has their adherents however outside of Pass Labs few pursue this path and even Pass the majority of amps start with Class A and the transition to AB for more output. I have a Threshold 400A which I had rebuilt by one of the old Threshold engineers for my legacy system (1970's vintage). This is a fantastic amp but I don't dare use it in my non legacy systems. I am a planar guy so amps have been a significant issue for me. Electrostatics are highly demanding loads and i have blown up components that can't keep up. Planar magnetics (higher end Magnepans) require a lot of power so amps are somewhat critical. I have studio speakers with class D amps (Dynaudio, Yamaha) which are OK but when I listen to the "New Class D" such as Purify it is incredible I am a huge fan of Bryston (OK I am a totally biased Canadian but no affiliation) Great electronic with 20 year warranty. who can compete with that. Wish your speakers were in my area so I could audition them.
Hi thanks very much for your interesting comment and contribution to the topic. We do have auditioning facilities in Canada, feel free to reach out to us via our website. Enjoy the music
Very good video. I really enjoyed how you explained everything. I'm an electronic hobbyist, I put together my own amps trying/testing out different setups. Continue making videos of this caliber. I congratulate you
A great explanation that makes things so simple, in a pleasant way that makes us deepen more in the magic of sound and in the world of amplifiers where there will always be contradictions in search of perfection. Listening to someone with so much knowledge and experience I can’t resist asking their opinion about the monoblocks " Bel Canto SET-80" that I’m thinking of acquiring. I will continue to absorb and delight myself and his wonderful videos, which reach all over the world. In this case to Portugal. Thank you
Cool guy with lots of experience and expertise. Remember he's selling his product here, those speakers. Even when not talking about the speakers he's selling by establishing his reputation. When stating that you CAN tell the difference in equipment with a blind test I always note that for the negligible cost of a curtain he could DO A BLIND TEST. He has the listening rooms and I'm sure he could get any equipment he wants to comparison test but it will never happen - never
Hi, thanks for your comment. I fully understand your reasoning. However, just to clarify - during the development of our loudspeakers and in amplifier comparisons, we used a special piece of technology that connected different components at random and we did several double blind tests to be sure of the development decisions. the difference between amplifiers, is not always big but it was always there and important to take into consideration. Hope that helps?
I am so much enjoying your lectures - and the common-sense embodied in the Sibelius philosophy. I'd love to hear them but since I live in Sydney, probably unlikely. I'll just have to struggle on with my MartinLogans.
Thank you for your kind appreciation! Martin Logan make fine Loudspeakers, you could do a lot worse! 😉 Hopefully,one day, you’ll hear a pair. I think we have some owners in Australia
Wonderful video about key topics at the roots of our HiFi passion. Never heard a so interesting explanation in more than 50 year of my HiFi hobby. Immediately subscribed to your valued channel. Many thanks!
Saying that class A is single end and class AB is push pull is making things a bit too simple. Although all single ended amps, the ones that "amplify the whole signal in one go", are class A, does not imply that a class A amp can not be push pull, nor indeed, that a push pull amp has to be class AB. Apart from this reservation I find your talk very refreshing and informative. Thank you.
Hi, you’re absolutely right. I over simplified it. ‘Push pull, class A’ is real and often very effective. I should have found a better way to explain it.
Only one thing: Class A can be push pull as well. Single sided and class A are two different dimensions. You can have a single sided class A amplifier as well as a push pul class A amplifier. For class AB the same is valid. Single sided is also possible. Class A or AB or B is all about quiescent current. Not about a push pull design or single ended. ;)
Great video. I listen to Zu speakers which like the Sibelius have no crossover. There is a full range 10 inch driver and a super tweeter that handles harmonIcs above 12k. The tweeter is protected with Clarity cap to prevent damage. I’m driving them with a Naim Nait 5Si integrated amp. I am considering moving to Sibelius. I like your approach to audio.
@aulker62 Thats 87db @ 1 metre from 1 Sebelius speaker....most of us listen at closer to 3 metres away which needs 3w for 87db for this speaker. Nevertheless the point is that you hardly ever use more than 10 Watts ;-)
The best Class D designs (like Bruno Putzeys') can be as smooth if not more than any other designs. You get that plus higher dynamic, precision, total speaker control and load invariance. Yes the first watts are the most important but that's only one part of the whole picture. Having power (high current capacity) change many things: A speaker is a physical device with inertia, it takes current to make it change its course. And the louder you play it, the more current it takes to properly control it. Not to mention that a speaker is a complex impedance that change with frequency, think of it as a variable RLC circuits whose values change with frequency. If you like the harmonic distortion of a tube amp, then no, the Class D won't bring you that. The question is: Do you want to listen to sound closer to source material or the more distorted one? That's perfectly ok to prefer the tube amps, that's not my point. It's like preferring sound while applying an equalizer curve. In my case, i selected every component to be as transparent as possible, the less distortion and artifact as possible: The result is that when i listen to a good quality recording, it really shines!
Dear John, thank you for your comment. It is much appreciated. Of course, you are absolutely right. And looking at my video again, I realise I will have caused some confusion here. I have placed an erratum in the video description, that I hope clears up the error.
We are--- most people can't even follow these technical languages. ( good for those whose already knows pretty much about it). Most of us just want to know how to buy the best amplifier in a particular store. Must be a way to simplify the process for us. We don't have to know all of these professional details. I wonder if they able too simplify all of these information? He is -- seems like too me ( who don't know enything about it) --- a real expert. I just hope he will make a simple conclusion at the end for all of us , not just for other professionals. I didn't even saw the hole speech of him. Now I am going forward and listen the hole upload.
@@violin-schwerin Interesting. I use a QUAD PA One, tube headphone amp or the really good VMV A1. But all of these tools are solving the same problem. 😉 best wishes, H
Not much "headbanging is going on with 4 to6 watts ... That would leave me a ton of headroom totaling around 700 WATTS. I'd wager that my wife would love the way you listen to music. Hey, different strokes for different folks, but rock music is lackluster at low volume levels. As far as loss of hearing goes, I must be very fortunate, as I'm almost 70 years old and still hear just fine after a lifetime of high volume rock and roll!! I just wish my legs could work as well as my ears, because I can barely get around in my house. Thank you for the informative video on different types of amps.
I'm not so keen on Class-D amplifiers, perhaps I remember too well the SInclair IC-10 from the 1970s as fantastic innovation at the time, but even modern switching amplifier have an enormous Achilles Heel and that's the potential for interference to the LF, MF and HF radio spectrum. For me it's my Trusty Quad 405 that I built 39 years ago, but has a separate power supply for each channel 2 x ILP toroidal transformers and the matching rectifier and capacitor sets. All UK made components and the electrolytics are still in fine condition. As you say - quality components were used all of which were sourced from Radio Spares in 1983. I bought the 34 and FM4 and later a Quad 66 CD player and it all drives a pair of Rogers LS7 loudspeakers. The Tuner and Pre-Amp were recently upgraded by Quad. A Linn Akurate DS1 now takes its place on the tape input and I'm in the process of refurbishing my Garrard 401/SME 3009 II. Overall I don't think I really improve on this without spending many thousands. Most importantly I still love the sound it makes. My best friend has the same Quad setup, but driving a pair of Rogers Studio Ones.
People are divided into two types: one wants to hear all the smallest fractions of original sound, and the second one wants them to be wiped out with distortions wall at -60dB level (and they call this a "clear sound" because a source is cleared from details). With some efforts they can find this even with a class D amplifier ) PS I can bet most of you will prefer to listen to and use Ayre AX-5 Twenty on a daily basis rather than any of A class heater. Check it out. Try it. This is an AB amp with a direct amplification with zero negative feedback loop. You can listen to it all day long.
I have no doubt that your single driver speaker without a crossover sounds decent. Because of the speakers simplicity the only MASSIVE damage would be to the voice coil and since Im assuming you don't have a fuse inline would be not hard to do even with a mediocre amp. I'll say its a good business strategy to have a speaker with a single driver and no crossover, keeps the cost WAY down. Interesting talks, thanks.
Hi, thanks for your kind words and comment. Much appreciated. Just to come back on the voice coil, it is very strong and can handle pretty high voltages. There is an equilibrium within the driver, that combines to give the power rating it has. It will comfortably produce 91-93dB and can peak around 100. But best listening is in the 80’s, I hope that helps?
Nice video....I use a SET 2A3 amp 4 watts....what can I say just great sound and smooth....like those speakers behind you....I use a klipsch rp160 speakers on stands which sound very good....and I'm also using a tube preamp with a separate tube phono stage....looking in the future to change the preamp even thou it's all point to point wiring but looking for something more quite....but I must check out your other video's great info and thanks for sharing.....Ed in New York.....🎼🎵🎶😎🎄
There are so many self-proclaimed experts that it is so refreshing to listen to these clear, articulate lectures delivered by a a classical recording producer, and they chime so well with my own experience, not as an "audiophile" but as a music-lover.. Thanks.
Thank you Douglas, very kind. Much appreciated.
@@PearlAcoustics Many thanks for this great video ! , making it very nice explained and intuitive. I have a question and I hope you can answer, Just got a very rare power amp ADCOM GFA555 MK2 Nelson Pass design, bought it from the US and it was new and never opened from the original box, so it was in the original manufacturer box for more then 20-25 years, all I can say It is sound amazing, it is connected in my setup to used ADCOM GFP565 pre amp , and now I explore very nice and chip tube pre amp Fosi audio tube P1 with GE5654 tubes by Riverstone audio the sound is incredible. So do you think should I replaced the electrolytic caps inside the power amp ? I have removed the top cover and the internals of course looks as new and I have the Bias been checked by me and is as specs . Thanks in advance
@@RanTausi Hi. What I am about to tell you is my ‘opinion’. And as such, do not want to proclaim myself as an expert, so please take it as that - an opinion. My rule is, if it sounds good, and there’s no buzzing, hissing or excessive cone movement when idle, then leave it alone and simply enjoy it. 20-25 years is not old for an amplifier of that quality. In the old days (pre-1980’s) - people used oil filled capacitors and they definitely had a habit of breaking down. But todays modern components (and I include amps of the last 20 years) are generally way better made. Do enjoy it and look after it. Best wishes - Harley
@@PearlAcoustics Many thanks 🙏 Harley, I got your point. Have a good day
@@RanTausi 👍
A great, calm, explanation from someone who really knows what they're talking about.
Thank you. Very kind
One of the greatest classes I ever watched on TH-cam. Applause.
Thank you. You’re very kind!
As many have said, you never stop learning. Such a pleasant voice. Extremely articulate, yet able to explain complex elements in a simple and elegant manner. Thank you for the video.
Thanks!
Wonderful description of expressing the cross over distortion due to class AB
This is the first video so far which gave me a clear understanding of different types of amplifiers and sound reproduction. Very well explained and easy to understand for a newbie like me. Thanks you sir. Highly appreciated.
You are very welcome. Thank you for your kind words, they are much appreciated.
Top presentation, congratulations. You are gifted in not being overly technical and still bringing enough to the table, creating a very good understanding of the subject.
Thank you Roland! Glad you appreciated it.
britain truly does have a long historical record of making great speakers and audio equipment. Especially for acoustic type music.
This was one of the best and easiest to listen to video about different amp types. I love the way how you describe by nature complex stuff only with your words and some metaphors, reducing things to wat‘s important to understand. Phenomenal!
Thank you. Very kind.
Your little talk was as delightfully wonderful to listen to as I imagine any of the fancy pants pieces of audio gear you discus must indeed sound. Thank you for taking the time to explain the technical aspects behind these different conceptual approaches to audio amplification in such well thought out and appropriately paced way so that someone like myself could enjoy the whole video. I might never have taken the time otherwise. Very very good. Bravo. Subscribed.
Thank you Derek!
Thank you. So glad my video spoke to you in this way
Best real world explanation of HiFi I have heard, great job.
Thank you!
You would love both the sound and exceptional build quality of the Yamaha AS-801 Integrated Amplifier!! I’ve auditioned quite a few of Amps and landed on this A/B Amplifier, rated at 100 High Current amps, this amp which can be had for $699.00 on sale, (originally priced at 899.00) sounds as close to that smooth tube sound for the money as anything. Mated with a pair of KLH Kendall Towers rated a 96db, the ease at which the pair produces recorded music is never fatiguing and just a joy to listen to for hours. I owned the wonderful sounding Luxman LV105u, Tube Integrated amplifier, which I lost, well really stolen from a dealer I took to for servicing 15 years ago. It was such a wonderful sounding amplifier and beautifully designed. Nothing in its price range, I paid 1200 for it new, that I purchased ever matched its warm signature…..until the Yamaha! I haven’t heard the Heigl, but it’s been a delight to have at my home, which is a relatively small space….perfect for music listening!! Another great video….Loved it!!!
Thanks!
A very well sorted brain in this head!
Congratulations to be at such a good mental health, at this age!
I really like listening to him and his absolute honest knowledge and experience of life!
Thank you very much. This is probably the most informative video for a layman like myself I have ever had a chance of seeing.
Thank you! Glad it helped.
Now I better understand the technical reasons for what I have oberserved in relation to the differences between A, AB and D. Informative and well articulated. Thankyou
So pleased to hear this Jordan.
Great video I used a Rotel ra921 from the year 2000 it sounds awsome and great with my debut carbon turntable I’m 27 and got started at 16 and been a Rotel user for 6 years and love thier stuff
Very nicely done. This is the first video of yours I've found. Now I need to go back and watch all the rest.
Your overly simplified explanation of amplification and speakers was concise. Thank you.
My favourite Solid State Amp I've ever owned the ARCAM Delta 90.2. Favourite Valve Amp (current) a Chinese KT88 with replacement valves.
Simply a delightful chat to offer the serious hifi and music enthusiast a primer on what to look for when they acquire a set of hifi. I chanced upon this channel today and it's now my default hifi channel. Thanks very much, Mr Lovegrove.
You’re very welcome indeed. Thank you.
What a wonderful gift for young musicians, a gift that keeps on giving! Great video on amplifier types for those looking for one that may suit their needs!
Thank you Fred!
The best video about different type of amplifiers thanks so much!
Thank you. Very kind
Very well presented, I don't know anything about amplifier, but in this video i learned so much, thank you sir much appreciated, take care - azim
Thank you Azim.
I have several very good tube amplifiers but the ones that are in service all the time are the 20 dollar class D solid state ones. your video here is very helpful
I am glad you found my video helpful… enjoy the music. Best wishes from Belgium
A danish hi-fi magazine once made a test together with the danish Quad import whether they could hear the difference between a Quad system and a selected high end system. They could detect the difference but it was very difficult.
Regarding design and quality of components, the Jean Hiraga “Le Monstre” was famous for it’s ability to play with almost every loudspeaker. It had so much power reserve that it continued playing long after the power was dis-connected.
Any idea which Quad and which hi-end system?
Great explanation. I have degree and a masters in MECHANICAL Engineering and I'm very technical... however this was superb.
Thank you, I am so glad you appreciated it
Fascinating video. Whilst I am not greatly experienced or qualified in the art of sound reproduction I like the kit, I've got some, 70's stuff, Lecson, Revox, Leak 2075, and it sounded great!.. now it sounds like my telly with the bass up too high. I think nature has turned my top end filter to max.
Thanks for your kind comment. The lack of treble could be a bit of both? Aging capacitors and or tweeters (most likely tweeters) that can easily be replaced and aging ears, that prove a more challenging reality (although our brains are very good at compensating).
Great explanations and its now so much easier to decide in which direction to go..
Saving up for Sibelius speakers..!
Thank you 🙏 😉
speaking of well made.. my American made McIntosh stuff is amazing, especially the C1100 pre-amp, but what takes that up a notch is the British made dCS Rossini with clock, and what takes that even up a notch is the Japanese made Accuphase DP-750 SACD player.. oh my God.. the sound of this stuff put together is just amazing.
Enjoy
Your narrative on type of amps for the need is perfect for my learning about tube amp, thank you!
Thank you. Glad my video was of some help.
The insight you share on music and hifi is absolutely fantastic. I learn so much from these
Thank you, that’s very nice to know. So glad
Every time I hear a well engineered tube amp, it just sounds “right” - no harshness, no over analytical sound, just music.
indeed, I think that is the hallmark of a product doing what it should. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for a very informative outline of amplifiers. We are all very lucky to have such a diversity of quality equipment to choose...to hopefully match the sound signatures that we personally want or would like to hear for our budgets.
My favourite combination is to use a valve preamp and class d power amps. As class d power is very strong, neutral and highly efficient and then the tube pre allows (and can be further tuned) to provide a little more additional harmonic warmth and dimensionality and the sound can be further tweaked by rolling different tubes..which is fun.
Sadly tube power amps for me are great but too expensive to run as good power tubes are often very expensive for the better ones.
But you are right Chinese hifi gear is fab, often very well designed and built and very affordable...the only one small caveat regards warranties, service and support ..primarily due to location and logistical issues of course. But I have never had any issues or problems...after all many western brands are also made in China too.
Thanks again and keep up the great work
I purchased a 600gbp 300b amp from China sounds xcellent... The price was the clincher... The mark ups on audio as soon as it hits the UK is laffable.. Guitar shops r usually cheaper than hi fi shops for repairs... Their no crap approach is good.. And they sell very cheap interconects £3.99
I'm happy with my NAD C388 its future orientated because it can up-grated by adding MDC Modules into the amp such as BluOS (streaming etc) for an affordable price meaning you don't need a separate streamer that cost much more.I did had all types of amps during the last 50 years and all sounded great(including a QUAD).However today the technology move much faster therefore I choose an integrated amp that can keep up when new technology is available.Beside that I always liked fast and dynamic amps.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing Roland.
Thank you for the great "infotainment". I really appreciate that you share your knowledge with the world, which is not self-evident. Knowledge is one of the most important things a person can have and this video is special of its kind. Were well made and it makes me feel that the world is getting a little friendlier and more cooperative again.
Thank you very much indeed. You’re very kind. I too believe that Sharing knowledge and kindness are two of the very most precious gifts one has to give.
@@PearlAcoustics I hope a political excursus is not misplaced on this TH-cam channel, but what makes me concerned is the war in Ukraine. Because I am a German, I feel especially distressed about the fact that the such a war of aggression happens again in Europe. But your videos always give me the notion of a collaborative European sprit, which is what I like about them so much.
The sound produced is ALL that matters, and there is a definite better or best choice when combining a speaker to an amplifier. Budget is the deciding variable, however, at a decent store, you should easily find several choices and combinations within said budget to choose from. You need to identify the speaker first, imho. Allocate 90% of your available money on the most expensive speaker that you can afford. The store will do everything necessary to show off every speaker in your price range. It's not complicated. Listen to every front end combination that they assemble (all components that you can afford later down the road). These combinations should be all tube front ends, all solid state front ends, and combinations of both. The system that sounds the best in whatever configuration brings you the greatest listening enjoyment, make that ultimate system your long-term goal. Buy the speakers first, and use the remaining money (10%) to buy a basic, inexpensive, used, integrated amp (ebay or from their consignment rack)) and a basic, inexpensive, used, CD player or a basic used turntable (whichever source material you collect) from ebay or their consignment rack. Listen to your music at home, enjoy your new speaker purchase, and begin to set aside money to purchase the amplification from the ultimate system that made these speakers sound wonderful to you. Buy it, plug it into your system at home, and celebrate the improved sound as you get closer to the ultimate system that prompted you to buy the speakers. Start saving money to purchase the source unit that prompted you to buy the speakers. Buy it, plug it into your system at home, and celebrate your achievement. Through discipline and a well designed savings effort, you have assembled the ultimate system that prompted you to buy the speakers. Move the inexpensive components into the bedroom or some other room, get some budget speakers, and enjoy some music in that space. Retail stores do not want you to go about it like this. They want you to trade up. Bring in stuff, take a loss on the trade-in, and buy the next level up. In the end, after several trade-up scenarios, you will have that ultimate system. However, between the losses you sustained on each trade-in, and the interest you paid on your credit card or whatever loan you used in this trade-up effort, you will have paid far more than you would have had you used the approach I described above. That money you lost in their trade-in program, the money that went into the pocket of the store owner, could have been used to buy more music. Just food for thought.
Great video. I could listen to you all day mate. You explain things very well ;)
Thank you! Very kind.
Finally someone with an impartial word... how refreshing considering you look and talk like the proper audiophile.
How does someone 'look' like an audiophile?.....but tbh you're right. Go to any tradeshow and it's old, grey men wall to wall, and that explains the type of music 'audiophiles' always seem to listen to and therefore the types of systems they rave about. I'd be very interested to listen to the views of someone with a more electic range of music interests.
@@mediapc4747 I listen to a lot of different genres myself. What do you imagine is different? I mean different genres, Death metal, EDM, Salsa, Punk, Brit Pop... etc.
I personally wouldn't use a Sibelius. I much prefer the clarity of a 3-way. A good 3 Way can sound very coherent. But at the end of things, if we listen to death metal on a monophonic Bluetooth speaker, why a Sibelius should be discarded? At the end one would end up enjoying the music, quite frankly.
Thank you so much for this video and the others I have viewed thus far.
I’m nearing 60 and been into music listening equipment for many years. It took me many years to find the right amplifier for my Quad ESL57s and only after living with the others (Quad ll’s, 303, Leak even a pair of Altec Lansing 1569A mono blocks) before hearing it all come right with the Radford STA25.
My point is the exercise of finding the right amplifier can be a journey of many years of listening before you arrive at your musical bliss.
Again, wonderful videos but they do have me wanting to hear those Sibelius speakers. They look beautiful.
One point I might add is that although internal components have generally improved, I’d argue that many output transformers of yesteryear are equal to those of today.
Thank you for your kind appreciation. Agreed, some manufacturers were making very good output transformers. But even that technology has advanced in recent decades. But that does not necessarily mean ’sounding better’. Feel to contact us via our website to see if a listening session can be arranged. Enjoy your music and wonderful amplifier.
I just got the Quad Artera Stereo power amp, really happy with it and agree good value for money. Only issue is now I want the Artera Mono blocks!
Thanks for sharing. Enjoy!
Lovely lecture. So grateful you took the time to share your knowledge a clear love of music and people.
Thank you
Yep thanks Harley. Enjoyed your chat immensely. Thank you.
Thanks!
Another great talk from a UK perspective. Was waiting for you to get to damping factor which you did. I think the hard rock music of the late 60s/early 70s was a big push toward the AB amps. The MacIntosh amps (popular at the time) didn't handle heavy bass very well. Love these stimulating audio discussions - keep them coming.
Thanks for your appreciation, it’s very welcome!
In 1984 I bought a MOSFET Tandberg 3012. It's still running every day. Only had to clean the potmeters once.
I listened to other amps afterwards, but just not worth it.
It has a prepre for my AT 33 and that's a rare thing these days.
Most welcome to hear from a true professional on what is otherwise 'Hi-Fi bs'. I remember building a PA design by John Linsley Hood in the early '70s which provided up to 25W in Class AB but with adjustable pre-set quiescent current in the output pair which varied the proportion of Class A amplification - see Wireless World Magazine of July 1970. Its specification seems ideally suited to your definition of 'it's the first watt which counts'. Anyway, my recollection is that the amplifier sounded so good that my friends came round just to have a listen and one at least counted it as a reference standard! Sadly, the transistor pair specified was fairly frail and has long since been discontinued. Modern replacements may not be up to the mark.
Thanks for your kind words. Your amp sounded wonderful, I bet. However, I would not write off modern transistors, there are some really incredible products out there! Remember, when you built your amp, solid state transistors were still rather new technology 😉 time to rebuild it!
@@PearlAcoustics In a way, I have done so. My current equipment includes amplifiers with Power MOSFET output stages. I like to think of them operating like potentiometers where the speaker joins to the wiper which moves up and down (resistively speaking) at audio frequencies! Half way to tubes, don't you think? Changing subject slightly, there's a lot going for sensitive, wide range single speakers as in your design. If money has to be spent anywhere, then it is the speaker you need to address for quality of experience. If you have to revert to a multi speaker approach, there was once a Yamaha design which used electroststics for the mid/high range and a massive, high density slab of polystyrene (measured in square feet) for bass. It sounded pretty good. Brings a whole new world of meaning to 'plane wave'.
I stumbled onto your video's this evening. Thank you for putting them out and especially this video. Your analogies and especially how you summed things up right at the end are great! I look forward to more of your content.
Thank you so much for your good expert story without prejudice.
Indeed, In China they can of course make good audio equipment. All value for money. A good Naim or Quad clone is not free there either.
As a senior hard and software enthusiast, I chose to build a Krell KSA-50 class A clone myself because of the costs. However, passively cooled which turned out not to be easy. I set up the power supply a bit more modern than the original design.
In addition, I built a Hiraga Le Monstre, only 8 to 10W per channel. Also class A. I provided the latter with an SMPS power supply instead of the dated original design.
Well, I talk too long about myself instead of your excellent reviews: You evade any irrational dogma and rely on your professional knowledge. That's good in this world of disinformation.
Thank you.
You are absolutely very welcome. All comments and additions to the topic are very welcome
Hello Mr. Lovegrove,
a real fine job you’re doing and “…..you took the words right out of my mouth…..” ;-) ! Congrats that’s pure audiophile realism and I wish that there would be more people like you in this business.
‘Cause there not much people which know that for example 0.5 Watt even on a 85 dB speaker means room volume. So remember Depeche mode : ”Everyone counts in large amounts” that is the poison in peoples lifestyle. Kind regards from Germany!
Thank you for tour kind words
Excellent video, I really appreciate your private seminars/music and engineering lessons. I have shared it with my brother and a family friend as they are enjoying their hi-fi systems.
Thank you, very kind.
Don't get me wrong, I like your topics very very much. A lot of people can learn a lot here.
Thanks
Good evening 🌺 from my humble country ❤️ the Philippines Mr Lovegrove...
This is my second video for the day from Pearl Acoustics. Very informative easy to understand explanation of the types of amplifiers. My son just bought a NAD C338 or 388 from his Christmas bonus. I just bought a can of electronic contact cleaner and the baffless for my Coral 6CX will be done by Friday next week. It's a 98dB coaxial drivers and I am excited about hooking it up with what I think is a good baffles sporting a similar rectangular port like your speaker 🔊, my favourite Sibelius speakers. My favourite Class A integrated amplifier is the Musical Fidelity A-1 or A1X. I heard a brand new one 20 years ago and I am hesitant to buy a second hand ✋ unit because of its price (they are kinda pricey considering they are used units and I don't know its history) and how hot they operate but since I got a lot of education from you sir, I don't think I will be using beyond 2w/chan for the kind of speakers I have. The 86dB Celestion 1 I have when I put them in a box similar to your Sibelius is around 93dB because it plays loudly at pleasant levels. I don't crank the volume that much. I just played a direct to disc LP and my neighbor in front hum the melodic right up when I plan to change the record so I put the same LP and spin it back. Just an update, I made a similar box like your nice Sibelius instead of making an adjustable port as warmly suggested by my carpenter. He needs the extra cash to take his wife out for a simple dinner and grocery for the holidays.
Thanks for this class lesson, and I have a DIY soundbar with Technics AA class stereo integrated SU-VX600 amp and two Dynaudio experience 62 speakers horizonataly mounted, with WiFi streaming Tidal Spotify Mood etc and I can ours listening without coming tired !
Very informative and explained very elegantly my personal preference is class a valve amplification my amplifier is a kt 88 triode integrated utilising to KT 88 per channel and two preamplifier valves per channel. yes it is a Chinese amplifier, but it is very well built. Deathly silent and beautiful to look at. Needless to say I won’t be partying with it any time soon.
Great to hear! Indeed, just because something is made in China, in no way diminishes it, for me. Enjoy your amplifier. Best wishes , H
I subscribed to your excellent channel and greatly appreciate your effort to laymanize or simplify a lot of technical terms. Very refreshing indeed. So, you have a subscriber and avid fan from the Philippines. Wishing you all the best.
Thank you for your presentation. I use a 2a3 single-ended tube amp. 2 and a half watts of pleasure.
Very glad you appreciated my presentation. Enjoy your amplifier!
Good chat if a bit misleading. Class A and single ended are not the same thing, and in order to meet the transient requirements in some music for an average listening level of 1 watt, you would need 1000watts. Furthermore even order distortion is largely due to valve action not amplifier class. Enjoyable videos nonetheless.
Thank you for your comment. And your additional input
Excellent video. I enjoy the long format. As you said, second hand amps should be tested on cheap speakers, PLUS be left running for hours to prove thermal stability.
Thanks. We think aligned!
Enjoyed the video. Easy to understand explanation of the subject with great illustrations!
Thank you!
A single-ended amp is always a class-a amp, it needs a lifted bias in order to swing both ways, but a class-a amp does not need to be single ended it can be push pull too. There is absolutely no difference between a class-a and a class a/b design, the only difference is with how much bias you are driving it. A class-b design is unsuitable for hifi use because you have x-over distortion like crazy, but if you just lift the bias by a little bit like half a watt or quarter of a watt the x-over distortions disappear. Now you are in class-a/b territory. Say you have an amp that can deliver 20 watts and you run it with 5 watts bias, then it is still a class-a/b amp even though it is very unlikely that you will ever run it above 5 watts. So within the limit of 5 watts it behaves exactly like a class-a amp. You can now lift it to 10 watts and it is still class-a/b. Only if you crank the bias up to it's maximum power it is called a class-a. The benefit of a class-a amp is not that is has a better distortion spectrum, there are class-a amps that distort terribly, thats a matter of design, the only real benefit is that your music is not putting any load on your power supply. You can build a class-a/b solid state amp that distorts beautifully like a tube with perfect K2.
Thank you for your contribution to the topic
Sir your video are like a fire side chat wonderful insightful brilliant extremely helpful thank you.your knowledge of recorded music is a blessing.peace a fan and a yank.
You are very kind. I hope to make many more, on all kinds of related topics. Thanks again, H
Very nice tutorial. I watched it twice now.
Thanks. Glad you appreciated it
For music I have a SE Triode/Pentode (6L6G) Valve amp. 9Watts/side
I live in Northern Canada.
If it gets too cold, I turn up the music.
Which amp exactly? 6l6Gs are a bit rare. I suppose you can use 6L6GCs if you have some that suite you.
@@terrywho22 It's a home build. I found a box of NOS 6L6G tubes (Westinghouse Radiotron Made in Canada). Spent over a year studying tube amps then built one. Bought the power and OPTs from Hammond (in Ontario).
@@CraftAero Nice! Never heard a 6L6G, but the 6L6GC is one of my favorite tubes. I imagine that they sound similar.
A terrific video. Thank you. I live in New Zealand and own one of Gary Morrsion's Pure Audio pre=amplifiers and rate it as highly as you rate his stereo power amp.
What a great explanation! Thank you very much for this it was very educational
Thanks. You’re very welcome
Very informant post. The questions will always rage - class A, AB, class D. Obviously AB reigns the roost. I would guess it is over 90% of the amplifier market (amps and receivers included). At any rate the far dominate option. Having said that they are pretty well defined and properly implemented probably define the standard. Class A has their adherents however outside of Pass Labs few pursue this path and even Pass the majority of amps start with Class A and the transition to AB for more output. I have a Threshold 400A which I had rebuilt by one of the old Threshold engineers for my legacy system (1970's vintage). This is a fantastic amp but I don't dare use it in my non legacy systems. I am a planar guy so amps have been a significant issue for me. Electrostatics are highly demanding loads and i have blown up components that can't keep up. Planar magnetics (higher end Magnepans) require a lot of power so amps are somewhat critical. I have studio speakers with class D amps (Dynaudio, Yamaha) which are OK but when I listen to the "New Class D" such as Purify it is incredible
I am a huge fan of Bryston (OK I am a totally biased Canadian but no affiliation) Great electronic with 20 year warranty. who can compete with that. Wish your speakers were in my area so I could audition them.
Hi thanks very much for your interesting comment and contribution to the topic. We do have auditioning facilities in Canada, feel free to reach out to us via our website. Enjoy the music
After reviewing many different amplifiers, i got my end game amplifier. Danish Gryphon Diablo 120.
Great - such a good feeling - enjoy
Very good video. I really enjoyed how you explained everything. I'm an electronic hobbyist, I put together my own amps trying/testing out different setups.
Continue making videos of this caliber. I congratulate you
Thank you Frederico!
Thank you very much for the explanation, very didactic, your talk is very pleasant to listen to, thanks again, a warm greeting from México.
Thank you. You’re very welcome. Greetings from Belgium
A great explanation that makes things so simple, in a pleasant way that makes us deepen more in the magic of sound and in the world of amplifiers where there will always be contradictions in search of perfection.
Listening to someone with so much knowledge and experience I can’t resist asking their opinion about the monoblocks " Bel Canto SET-80" that I’m thinking of acquiring.
I will continue to absorb and delight myself and his wonderful videos, which reach all over the world. In this case to Portugal.
Thank you
Thank you Antonio!
Cool guy with lots of experience and expertise. Remember he's selling his product here, those speakers. Even when not talking about the speakers he's selling by establishing his reputation. When stating that you CAN tell the difference in equipment with a blind test I always note that for the negligible cost of a curtain he could DO A BLIND TEST. He has the listening rooms and I'm sure he could get any equipment he wants to comparison test but it will never happen - never
Hi, thanks for your comment. I fully understand your reasoning. However, just to clarify - during the development of our loudspeakers and in amplifier comparisons, we used a special piece of technology that connected different components at random and we did several double blind tests to be sure of the development decisions. the difference between amplifiers, is not always big but it was always there and important to take into consideration. Hope that helps?
I am so much enjoying your lectures - and the common-sense embodied in the Sibelius philosophy. I'd love to hear them but since I live in Sydney, probably unlikely. I'll just have to struggle on with my MartinLogans.
Thank you for your kind appreciation! Martin Logan make fine Loudspeakers, you could do a lot worse! 😉 Hopefully,one day, you’ll hear a pair. I think we have some owners in Australia
Wonderful video about key topics at the roots of our HiFi passion. Never heard a so interesting explanation in more than 50 year of my HiFi hobby. Immediately subscribed to your valued channel. Many thanks!
Thank you. Very kind. Much appreciated.
MANY THANKS , REALLY SUPERB TALK , THANK YOU SIR
Totally helpfull thank you so much, you have the great way to explain things!
Thank you!
Saying that class A is single end and class AB is push pull is making things a bit too simple. Although all single ended amps, the ones that "amplify the whole signal in one go", are class A, does not imply that a class A amp can not be push pull, nor indeed, that a push pull amp has to be class AB.
Apart from this reservation I find your talk very refreshing and informative. Thank you.
Hi, you’re absolutely right. I over simplified it. ‘Push pull, class A’ is real and often very effective. I should have found a better way to explain it.
I am missing Harley's wisdom on these matters. Can't wait.
Hi Charles, sorry for the late reply. Hopefully I will find time now for many more! Enjoy.
@@PearlAcoustics So many channels, but yours feels more enriching. Thank you.
@@TheCharlesAtoz thanks
Another thing about Tube amps I like is the circuits are so simple compared to solid state a few tubes or many transistors to do the same job
Sounds like shades of DNM's amplifier philosophy. Thanks for another great presentation!
Only one thing: Class A can be push pull as well. Single sided and class A are two different dimensions.
You can have a single sided class A amplifier as well as a push pul class A amplifier.
For class AB the same is valid. Single sided is also possible.
Class A or AB or B is all about quiescent current. Not about a push pull design or single ended. ;)
Indeed. Thanks for your addition. I should have talked about that possibility but thought it way too complicated.
Great video. I listen to Zu speakers which like the Sibelius have no crossover. There is a full range 10 inch driver and a super tweeter that handles harmonIcs above 12k. The tweeter is protected with Clarity cap to prevent damage. I’m driving them with a Naim Nait 5Si integrated amp. I am considering moving to Sibelius. I like your approach to audio.
Thanks for your appreciative comment.
Super, many thanks for to explain the 1 watt = 87 Db. It was so usefull.
@aulker62
Thats 87db @ 1 metre from 1 Sebelius speaker....most of us listen at closer to 3 metres away which needs 3w for 87db for this speaker.
Nevertheless the point is that you hardly ever use more than 10 Watts ;-)
The best Class D designs (like Bruno Putzeys') can be as smooth if not more than any other designs. You get that plus higher dynamic, precision, total speaker control and load invariance. Yes the first watts are the most important but that's only one part of the whole picture. Having power (high current capacity) change many things: A speaker is a physical device with inertia, it takes current to make it change its course. And the louder you play it, the more current it takes to properly control it. Not to mention that a speaker is a complex impedance that change with frequency, think of it as a variable RLC circuits whose values change with frequency.
If you like the harmonic distortion of a tube amp, then no, the Class D won't bring you that. The question is: Do you want to listen to sound closer to source material or the more distorted one? That's perfectly ok to prefer the tube amps, that's not my point. It's like preferring sound while applying an equalizer curve. In my case, i selected every component to be as transparent as possible, the less distortion and artifact as possible: The result is that when i listen to a good quality recording, it really shines!
Thank you for your contribution to the topic. It’s much appreciated
You can have class A push-pull, where the output devices (tubes/valves or transistors) each amplify for the entire cycle of a sine wave.
Dear John, thank you for your comment. It is much appreciated. Of course, you are absolutely right. And looking at my video again, I realise I will have caused some confusion here. I have placed an erratum in the video description, that I hope clears up the error.
We are--- most people can't even follow these technical languages. ( good for those whose already knows pretty much about it).
Most of us just want to know how to buy the best amplifier in a particular store.
Must be a way to simplify the process for
us. We don't have to know all of these professional details.
I wonder if they able too simplify all of these information? He is -- seems like too me ( who don't know enything about it) --- a real expert. I just hope he will make a simple conclusion at the end for all of us , not just for other professionals. I didn't even saw the hole
speech of him. Now I am going forward and listen the hole upload.
Great video! I use a Croft acoustics micro25 phono pre (all valve) and Croft Series 7 hybrid amp (valve input, mosfet output)
Thanks. Hybrid naked a lot of sense!
@@PearlAcoustics since there's no headphone output on the Croft, I've gone for a otl tube headphone amp from Feliks audio
@@violin-schwerin Interesting. I use a QUAD PA One, tube headphone amp or the really good VMV A1. But all of these tools are solving the same problem. 😉 best wishes, H
One of the best videos by far. Thanks
Thank you, very kind
Not much "headbanging is going on with 4 to6 watts ... That would leave me a ton of headroom totaling around 700 WATTS. I'd wager that my wife would love the way you listen to music. Hey, different strokes for different folks, but rock music is lackluster at low volume levels. As far as loss of hearing goes, I must be very fortunate, as I'm almost 70 years old and still hear just fine after a lifetime of high volume rock and roll!! I just wish my legs could work as well as my ears, because I can barely get around in my house. Thank you for the informative video on different types of amps.
Thanks for your wonderful contribution! Keep on rocking!
Exceptional and true.. What a beautiful presentation.. Loved it.. Regards. 🙏🏻
Thank you SO much,the listen was worth every second. I learned a lot! First time here,subscription time.
Thank you - you’re very welcome
I would love another video on pre amplifiers!
Hi Jonathan, that’s a good idea. Will do. But it might take a while
What an enjoyable video. Full of passion for music and musicians. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge. You've got a new subscriber!
This was wonderful, thank you. Looped microphonic resonance is a thing 🙏
Thank you
Thank you for such great insight made easy to understand
You’re very welcome Mark! Thanks for your kind comments.
I'm not so keen on Class-D amplifiers, perhaps I remember too well the SInclair IC-10 from the 1970s as fantastic innovation at the time, but even modern switching amplifier have an enormous Achilles Heel and that's the potential for interference to the LF, MF and HF radio spectrum. For me it's my Trusty Quad 405 that I built 39 years ago, but has a separate power supply for each channel 2 x ILP toroidal transformers and the matching rectifier and capacitor sets. All UK made components and the electrolytics are still in fine condition. As you say - quality components were used all of which were sourced from Radio Spares in 1983. I bought the 34 and FM4 and later a Quad 66 CD player and it all drives a pair of Rogers LS7 loudspeakers. The Tuner and Pre-Amp were recently upgraded by Quad. A Linn Akurate DS1 now takes its place on the tape input and I'm in the process of refurbishing my Garrard 401/SME 3009 II. Overall I don't think I really improve on this without spending many thousands. Most importantly I still love the sound it makes. My best friend has the same Quad setup, but driving a pair of Rogers Studio Ones.
Enjoy!
People are divided into two types: one wants to hear all the smallest fractions of original sound, and the second one wants them to be wiped out with distortions wall at -60dB level (and they call this a "clear sound" because a source is cleared from details). With some efforts they can find this even with a class D amplifier )
PS I can bet most of you will prefer to listen to and use Ayre AX-5 Twenty on a daily basis rather than any of A class heater. Check it out. Try it. This is an AB amp with a direct amplification with zero negative feedback loop. You can listen to it all day long.
Thank you. Excellent lecture!
Thanks!
Excellent description
Thanks!
I have no doubt that your single driver speaker without a crossover sounds decent. Because of the speakers simplicity the only MASSIVE damage would be to the voice coil and since Im assuming you don't have a fuse inline would be not hard to do even with a mediocre amp. I'll say its a good business strategy to have a speaker with a single driver and no crossover, keeps the cost WAY down. Interesting talks, thanks.
Hi, thanks for your kind words and comment. Much appreciated. Just to come back on the voice coil, it is very strong and can handle pretty high voltages. There is an equilibrium within the driver, that combines to give the power rating it has. It will comfortably produce 91-93dB and can peak around 100. But best listening is in the 80’s, I hope that helps?
Thanks for your videos, very grateful
Nice video....I use a SET 2A3 amp 4 watts....what can I say just great sound and smooth....like those speakers behind you....I use a klipsch rp160 speakers on stands which sound very good....and I'm also using a tube preamp with a separate tube phono stage....looking in the future to change the preamp even thou it's all point to point wiring but looking for something more quite....but I must check out your other video's great info and thanks for sharing.....Ed in New York.....🎼🎵🎶😎🎄
Oh my Jeeznes I've learned so much in this mate. I'm left a lil bonkers though. I do know how to throw my money in the right direction. Thank you Sir
Glad to help
Secret. Take your time. Stick with what you have until you hgave heard and seen a few systems, then decide.
So much to learn... From you. ;)
Can't help it... I just love the sound of my Marantz 4270 + CD-73 + a Thorens 147 Jubilee on Goodmans Dimension Pro.
Please, press, when you love something. Don’t discard it. Our relationship with our HiFi components should never be purely rational. 😉