I did the same to my '20 XP 1000. I like your sleeve idea. The metal shop had nothing to fit snug in the cage so I went to the muffler shop and he took the thickest wall pipe he had and swelled it until it fit perfectly. I was able to just use 3" ratchet straps to pull mine all together then weld it up. Makes the machine look much sleeker IMO.
Really Nice work and making the sleeves and alignment. Very practical inexpensive cage mod. I can't believe more people don't do this verse spending up to $1700 on an aftermarket cage. You can add a simple after market intrusion bar in the front "Intrusion Bar by Aprove" for $185
I hate these videos. I was perfectly content with my new toy, now because of you i have to go cut stuff up🤦♂️ nice job good video you got urself a new subscriber 🤘🤘
Re-attaching the bolts that connect the roof members to the main hoop was a bit tricky because the connecting plates were no longer flush. I had to use a longer bolt in one of the two holes to get it started. Once it was drawn together a bit I could put one of the original bolts in the second hole, draw it tight, then replace the longer bolt in the first hole with the other original bolt.
It's a modification. I can't take credit for it. I saw it in photos and copied it. I get this question a lot so I think I'll do a quick video on it. It's super easy. Stay tuned.
Rustoleum Ultra-Cover Paint+Primer Gloss Real Orange. Its close enough that as long as you have a good transition point you will never notice. I used it to change my beadlock rings to orange as well. Seems to hold up pretty good too if you do good prep and a couple coats.
I can't exactly remember but I want to say yes. The cage is integral to the stiffness of the chassis. Whenever you mess with it it's bound to cause the doors to need adjusting.
Did relocate the snorkels? If so is there any way you still have the old stock piping? I have been hunting someone that is parting out a highlifter or something so I can get the factory highlifter snorkels off so I put them on my xp turbo. I know it’s a long shot but I figured I’d ask lol. I’ll take whatever you have left of what you took off!! Thanks
I have the back section of my rzr off, and I wanna go ahead and lower it like this, but would it be way off when I put it back on? I know most people do it on the rzr and pull an tweak to match it up .. in my head, I'm thinking, cut the bars, lower it, and then bolt it to the front section of the cage first, then just pull the back down? Would that be easier, or am I way off track?
The problem is that the rear main hoop is wider at the bottom than at the top, so, when you cut out the middle section the remaining top and bottom no longer match up. The bottom needs to be squeezed together and the top needs to be spread apart to match up properly. There are lots of ways to achieve this, it all depends on what tools you have available, but in most cases having the cage on the machine is the only way to get the leverage needed to do while making sure the attachment points don't drift away from where they need to be.
Sorry for the slow reply, you comment got held as spam for some reason. My cutter is from Home depot in Canada. Erwin is the brand I think. The cage tube is 1-3/4" so a 2.5" cutter should work. I think mine is only 2".
With the spare tire there is certainly some good body roll but not really a problem for the kind of riding I do. And it's more important for me to have all my cargo up high and dry. Thanks for watching.
An aftermarket cage would certainly be better but the stock cage is plenty for the kind of riding I do. I've actually been in a pretty god roll over with this machine and, although I did have to replace part of the cage, it did it's job. The chop was a fun project that improved the look and allowed it fit in my trailer.
Thanks for the great tip for using my cut outs. The vice/hose clamp technique is one I'll remember for the rest of my days. I owe you one! Cheers!
What a difference. Looks GREAT! I like all your tricks.
I’m about to do this. Thanks for the sleeve idea!
Nicely done! Looks great!
I did the same to my '20 XP 1000. I like your sleeve idea. The metal shop had nothing to fit snug in the cage so I went to the muffler shop and he took the thickest wall pipe he had and swelled it until it fit perfectly. I was able to just use 3" ratchet straps to pull mine all together then weld it up. Makes the machine look much sleeker IMO.
One of the best videos out there on chopping your cage. Intelligently done and very clear and concise. Very nice work man!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the info I just finished chopping 4” out of my 23 XP 1000 and I beefed up the cage while I was at it
Looks so much better 👍
Cw rzr parts makes a 5” drop. Whole new rear hoop and braces. Took me about an hour to swap mine out.
Good job! Looks great
Thanks!
Looks awesome!
Really Nice work and making the sleeves and alignment. Very practical inexpensive cage mod. I can't believe more people don't do this verse spending up to $1700 on an aftermarket cage. You can add a simple after market intrusion bar in the front "Intrusion Bar by Aprove" for $185
Thanks!
Looks way better gooooddddd jobbb
I just had to replace my old one cause a nasty flip im doing something now
great idea on the inserts
Nice work, really liked the video !
How much head room did you lose I’m 6’4” and I’d like to do this but only have about 3.5” from my helmet to the stock cage
You would definitely be cutting it close. I'm 5'10 and I can fit my fist between helmet and roof so about 4" space.
Looks good
Great video!
Thank you!
I hate these videos. I was perfectly content with my new toy, now because of you i have to go cut stuff up🤦♂️ nice job good video you got urself a new subscriber 🤘🤘
Thank you!
did you have a tough time getting top portion to bolt back with the unmodified portion of the cage?
Re-attaching the bolts that connect the roof members to the main hoop was a bit tricky because the connecting plates were no longer flush. I had to use a longer bolt in one of the two holes to get it started. Once it was drawn together a bit I could put one of the original bolts in the second hole, draw it tight, then replace the longer bolt in the first hole with the other original bolt.
Hey u should try a new full stanless exhaust from GGB Exhaust They are awsome
Looks great, (what is the cage made out of? MIG or TIG weld?
Thanks. This is the stock cage that I cut down. The work I did was MIG welded.
You removed 5” , correct? Same amount from the rear down tubes?
Yes 5" from pillars and it worked out the same on the rear braces. Removed 5" from the straight portion.
Are there a snorkels stock that way or have you relocated them?
It's a modification. I can't take credit for it. I saw it in photos and copied it. I get this question a lot so I think I'll do a quick video on it. It's super easy. Stay tuned.
Much better👍🏻
What paint did you use to touch up the cage?
Rustoleum Ultra-Cover Paint+Primer Gloss Real Orange. Its close enough that as long as you have a good transition point you will never notice. I used it to change my beadlock rings to orange as well. Seems to hold up pretty good too if you do good prep and a couple coats.
I used a ratchet strap to pull it together after i put the sleeves in. It kinda moved them together with out having to bend anything
Did you have to adjust the doors afterwards
I can't exactly remember but I want to say yes. The cage is integral to the stiffness of the chassis. Whenever you mess with it it's bound to cause the doors to need adjusting.
Yes just alittle
Did relocate the snorkels? If so is there any way you still have the old stock piping? I have been hunting someone that is parting out a highlifter or something so I can get the factory highlifter snorkels off so I put them on my xp turbo. I know it’s a long shot but I figured I’d ask lol. I’ll take whatever you have left of what you took off!! Thanks
I do still have the stock highlifter ductwork but I'm holding on to it for now.
@@tracksnwheels 10-4. Well I will buy it if you decide to let it go
Did u cut the last 2 supports that go into your bed? Great video!
Yes. I cut aprox. the same amount from the middle of the lower section of the rear supports.
Did you have to do anything to front half or did you just pull it down into place and bolt it back to rear hoop?
Just loosen the bolts and it will flex enough to fit. Then tighten it all back up.
I have the back section of my rzr off, and I wanna go ahead and lower it like this, but would it be way off when I put it back on? I know most people do it on the rzr and pull an tweak to match it up .. in my head, I'm thinking, cut the bars, lower it, and then bolt it to the front section of the cage first, then just pull the back down? Would that be easier, or am I way off track?
The problem is that the rear main hoop is wider at the bottom than at the top, so, when you cut out the middle section the remaining top and bottom no longer match up. The bottom needs to be squeezed together and the top needs to be spread apart to match up properly. There are lots of ways to achieve this, it all depends on what tools you have available, but in most cases having the cage on the machine is the only way to get the leverage needed to do while making sure the attachment points don't drift away from where they need to be.
Thank you! I appreciate the reply and advice!
one hand buffer cut i couldn't be near his cut with two hands
What brand it the pipe cutter I have to know
Irwin. 2" cut.
link to pipe cutter please!! biggest size i can find is 2.5"...
Sorry for the slow reply, you comment got held as spam for some reason. My cutter is from Home depot in Canada. Erwin is the brand I think. The cage tube is 1-3/4" so a 2.5" cutter should work. I think mine is only 2".
I used a 2” cutter from HF worked fine and was only $15
Are you in Ontario by any chance?
Yesir
Still top heavy and tippy .
With the spare tire there is certainly some good body roll but not really a problem for the kind of riding I do. And it's more important for me to have all my cargo up high and dry. Thanks for watching.
Why?
Looks better and without lowering it would not fit in my enclosed trailer.
Just get a new cage cause that stock cage will crunch in
An aftermarket cage would certainly be better but the stock cage is plenty for the kind of riding I do. I've actually been in a pretty god roll over with this machine and, although I did have to replace part of the cage, it did it's job. The chop was a fun project that improved the look and allowed it fit in my trailer.