Thank you for this! I work in a 120sq ft workshop and also can't fit a table saw. I use the MFT and have been trying to figure out an efficient way to do this. This video is a great help!
The more I see of Festool’s products, the more impressed I am. This awesome. Such a straightforward explanation. I don’t like making narrow cuts on the table saw - especially precision repeat cuts - and I imagine this is generally safer. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Safer, yes - easier and quicker than a table saw - no! Completely possible without a table saw, but most won't want to do that unless they are limited on space and tools. Glad you liked it!
Good and simple explanation! You might wanna consider getting a rip blade (e.g. Festool TS 75 Panther blade with 16 teeth), it makes rip cuts a lot faster, cleaner (and no burn marks) and puts a LOT less strain on the machine (as heard around 5:03). It's well worth the investment!
Yep! It's something I've been looking into getting the panther blade. From what I can tell, it is the same kerf as the stock blade that comes with the 75. I usually make my projects with plywood, so haven't completely decided to pick one up. As I start to get into more soft and hard woods - I'll certainly scoop one up. Appreciate the insight and the view!
Thanks for a very helpful video. I have just purchased an MFT3 and needed to understand the best way to cut some pieces narrower than the rail. Your video provided the answer, so that's great. Having not come across your channel before, you are now on my viewing list, and I look forward to what else I can learn. So thanks again.
That’s so simple I don’t know why I didn’t think of that before thanks for posting this. I almost bought like $100 tool to do the same thing pushing the cuts out past the table and the other direction too though
Very cool. Keep up the nice videos. Have you watched any of The New Brit Workshop videos? Peter is great with an MFT and different ways to use it. Plus you will see the Parf Dogs that go into the MFT holes.
SUPER USEFUL!!!... I've had an MFT for years and have only used it as a "Dog-Hole" clamp utility because I couldn't wrap my head around how to properly use it. Would you please create a video on how to calibrate the track and everything?
😂I'm literally editing a video right now on how to do just that. It will be released this Sunday (make sure you subscribe!). If you aren't already, you can follow me on Instagram, I usually post in my stories about what I'm up to. Glad you're finding the content helpful!!
@@BenMarshallDesigns HOLY CRAP!!!! You're answering and I haven't even finished the video on the Festool CT Cyclone that i'm watching now... LOL You're pretty "High Speed/Low Drag"... You a Vet? I like your style, Brother! I'm rarely on Instagram. But, will gladly follow. If you are on Twitter, then it'd be great to get a follow from you, and i'd happly retweet your content there. You can find me at @Sekrit_Studios. Also, if you happen to be in the New England are by chance, perhaps there are other venues by which I can also attempt to get the word out on your channel.
You can get by without a jointer but a lunch box planer properly calibrated and with sharp blades is extremely useful if you plan to work with solid lumber. And a lunch box planer doesn't take much space either. With a piece of 3/4 x 12" X 96" MDF you can square up sizeable chunks of lumber. Tons of videos for planer sleds but I suggest to keep it simple.
Are you choosing not to have a table saw or would you own one if you had the opportunity to? Just curious if it is for safety reasons like myself. Thanks!
It's more of space restrictions than anything. Although my space looks big right now, I'm going to be renovating my basement this year, and will eventually wall off my workshop area. If I bought a tablesaw (which I haven't had too many needs for), I would also need a dedicated dust extractor (just more money, space taken up, etc). I can get by with what I currently have, and it allows me to make content centered around limited space (which is why I focus on festool).
Well I am making some Ron Paulk designed cupboards. I am making up some jigs and found that i need thin 21mm pieces x 800 mm or so pieces. I was right at the end of the sheet. I’d prefer to cut it from the piece I have but this has been problematic as it is quite narrow. So will see if I can try your method before going to a large sheet.
Thanks Ben! Just what I needed as I've been fumbling through repeated cuts with only a track saw. Especially with stock that's narrower than the track & without an MFT to hold the track up. Any tips for this?
Hey GM. To support the guide rail, you need support that is the same thickness as the material being cut/ripped. This can be challenging at times and requires a little forward planning. If you don’t have additional pieces to act as a spacer, you can cut some spacer blocks to set up under the guide rail. This can be time consuming, but a necessity when there isn’t an MFT with guide rail supports. It’s very possible, but not preferred 😆 hope this helps and thanks for dropping a question!! 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Wish i found this yesterday before i cut all my thin pieces like crap. Do you ever run into the cut not being perpendicular to the surface if a large portion of the track is floating? Also, what do you do when you get near the end of your peice where it might be too light to stay still while you are cutting? Thanks for the helpful vids!
If your piece isn't square after ripping (or parallel to whatever you referenced), then it is likely that your saw is tipping to one side or the other, which gives a cut edge that isn't 90° to the reference face (face that is against your MFT top). This is why you should always support the entire width of the guide rail as best possible. If you cannot support the entire length of the guide rail, use strips that are the same thickness as the piece you are ripping and place them perpendicular and underneath the guide rail about every 12-15 inches (or about the length of your track saw base plate). This ensures that the entire weight of the track saw is supported and won't lend to tipping. Appreciate the comment!
Hi Ben, thanks for a great video. I don't think I have heard you mention why you chose the TS 75 over the TS 55. I am trying to decide between the two. I have not tried both saws, but I wonder if the extra weight of the TS 75 will make the saw more cumbersome to use.
Hey, Jim, thanks for the comment. I picked the 75 mainly because of the plunge depth. I’m former military, we lived by the adage of “better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it”. It can be a bit Wiley to move the 75 around at times. I’ve also used the 55 and appreciate its smaller form factor. The 55 and 75 are capable machines - however the 75 has the deeper depth capacity and a more powerful motor. I recently wrote a supplemental article for my friends website that talks about this exact problem you’re facing, give it a look. www.bentswoodworking.com/blog/festool-tracksaw-review-ts-75-vs-ts-55
Hi Ben do you think the mft table can replace the table saw for panel cutting? here in Italy the tablesaws for hobbyists are very poor in cutting quality. Thanks for your time
Ben, I would suggest a shim/packer between the melamine stop and base of the rail on the left hand side. The rail will sag, under the weight of the saw as it passes along, and may cause deflection in the cut (burn/blade marks). Have used this technique many times, much safer than having the thin piece on the offside tight between a stop and the blade. The TS saws have a slight left toe-in at the front, so more likely to catch the piece and throw it back towards you if constrained. Hope this helps, Alan
Alan, that makes sense and great tip - thanks for sharing!! I’ve modified this technique since releasing this video, similar to what you have here. Although I think the better solution for me is to just get a table saw 🤣🤣🤣 cheers
@@BenMarshallDesigns Just save up for the new TKS80 Festool Sawstop. I am looking at it for a large on-site joinery contract. The price is staggeringly high, but all your other Festool bits and pieces will attach to it! 😂
@@BenMarshallDesigns Really! I thought that's why they bought Sawstop, in order to get UL approval for their table saws in the US. It may well be pending though. It's a great setup with all the attachments.
@@alaurben from what I understand, festool doesn’t want to infringe on the SawStop market here in the US, so they have no official plans to release the TKS here, which is similar to the sawstop contractor saw
Did you accidentally cut your fence on an angled cut? I was so close to doing but happened to watch Sedge from Festool explain how it may be an issue. Cool vids man.
Nice simple idea, although I was wondering, would it be viable to add a table saw style rip fence to one side of the track saw cut line to provide repeatable thin rip cuts?
Not sure I follow what you're describing. Do you mean having a positive reference to the right side of the blade to set the width of your cut on the material? This works better with pictures 😂 words aren't great for describing tool use ideas 😂😂
@@BenMarshallDesigns haha yeah struggling to find a way to describe what I mean. Essentially imagine attaching a table saw rip fence system to the right hand side of the cut line. Something like this www.woodworkersjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/n307QARipFenceAdjust.jpg it just seems you could use the ruler on the fence system to quickly set cut dimensions and quick adjustments can be made moving the fence further or closer as needed. I might try draw up my idea tomorrow haha
@@markie1984powell theres something that is similar to what you're saying - although I don't know how well it will work with a Track Saw. www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-3-precision-saw-router-fence-with-incra-incremental-positioning-system/. scroll towards the bottom of the page
@@BenMarshallDesigns that is a fancy bit of kit, unfortunately my budget and workspace is far too small to accommodate that as an option as beautiful as it is haha. I might even just see if I can use a self clamping straight edge as a temporary fence (as long as my mft top is cut at a good 90 degrees to the dog holes)
Lol! They do hybrid now. When I made this video they were doing ALL virtual - and I was still a full time IN SEAT with school. Needless to say - it was a busy time!
![Making narrow cuts on an MFT [video #220]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0_cfjiazVpA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Making narrow cuts on an MFT [video #220]](/img/tr.png)
Thank you so much my friend! I sm a collegue of yours from Italy. You just solved my today problem! Will try tomorrow! Thanks again mate!🎉🎉🎉
This was super helpful. I was just trying to cut a 1x12 into 2" strips on the MFT/3. Wasn't quite sure how to get repeatable cuts. This helps ALOT.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this! I work in a 120sq ft workshop and also can't fit a table saw. I use the MFT and have been trying to figure out an efficient way to do this. This video is a great help!
Very welcome
The more I see of Festool’s products, the more impressed I am. This awesome. Such a straightforward explanation. I don’t like making narrow cuts on the table saw - especially precision repeat cuts - and I imagine this is generally safer. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Safer, yes - easier and quicker than a table saw - no! Completely possible without a table saw, but most won't want to do that unless they are limited on space and tools. Glad you liked it!
The table saw is good for long stock ripping, which the MFT3 is never good at.
Good and simple explanation! You might wanna consider getting a rip blade (e.g. Festool TS 75 Panther blade with 16 teeth), it makes rip cuts a lot faster, cleaner (and no burn marks) and puts a LOT less strain on the machine (as heard around 5:03). It's well worth the investment!
Yep! It's something I've been looking into getting the panther blade. From what I can tell, it is the same kerf as the stock blade that comes with the 75. I usually make my projects with plywood, so haven't completely decided to pick one up. As I start to get into more soft and hard woods - I'll certainly scoop one up. Appreciate the insight and the view!
Thanks for a very helpful video. I have just purchased an MFT3 and needed to understand the best way to cut some pieces narrower than the rail. Your video provided the answer, so that's great. Having not come across your channel before, you are now on my viewing list, and I look forward to what else I can learn. So thanks again.
Thanks mike! Happy to have you here
Brilliant! That has just saved me faffing around with my bandsaw with less than perfect results. Thank you mate!
Glad you found it helpful!
great video Ben. this is a great example of thinking outside the box.
Absolutely!
That’s so simple I don’t know why I didn’t think of that before thanks for posting this. I almost bought like $100 tool to do the same thing pushing the cuts out past the table and the other direction too though
Nice! Glad it helped!
Very cool. Keep up the nice videos.
Have you watched any of The New Brit Workshop videos? Peter is great with an MFT and different ways to use it. Plus you will see the Parf Dogs that go into the MFT holes.
Thanks! Yes, I love Peters channel - one of the main sources I use before buying a tool!! Love how in-depth his videos are.
SUPER USEFUL!!!... I've had an MFT for years and have only used it as a "Dog-Hole" clamp utility because I couldn't wrap my head around how to properly use it. Would you please create a video on how to calibrate the track and everything?
😂I'm literally editing a video right now on how to do just that. It will be released this Sunday (make sure you subscribe!). If you aren't already, you can follow me on Instagram, I usually post in my stories about what I'm up to. Glad you're finding the content helpful!!
@@BenMarshallDesigns HOLY CRAP!!!! You're answering and I haven't even finished the video on the Festool CT Cyclone that i'm watching now... LOL
You're pretty "High Speed/Low Drag"... You a Vet?
I like your style, Brother! I'm rarely on Instagram. But, will gladly follow. If you are on Twitter, then it'd be great to get a follow from you, and i'd happly retweet your content there. You can find me at @Sekrit_Studios.
Also, if you happen to be in the New England are by chance, perhaps there are other venues by which I can also attempt to get the word out on your channel.
This is really helpful because I don’t own a table saw, planer or joiner either. Thanks
Awesome! Glad you found it helpful! Appreciate the comment as well.
You can get by without a jointer but a lunch box planer properly calibrated and with sharp blades is extremely useful if you plan to work with solid lumber. And a lunch box planer doesn't take much space either. With a piece of 3/4 x 12"
X 96" MDF you can square up sizeable chunks of lumber. Tons of videos for planer sleds but I suggest to keep it simple.
@@ThekiBoran thank you.
Are you choosing not to have a table saw or would you own one if you had the opportunity to? Just curious if it is for safety reasons like myself. Thanks!
It's more of space restrictions than anything. Although my space looks big right now, I'm going to be renovating my basement this year, and will eventually wall off my workshop area. If I bought a tablesaw (which I haven't had too many needs for), I would also need a dedicated dust extractor (just more money, space taken up, etc). I can get by with what I currently have, and it allows me to make content centered around limited space (which is why I focus on festool).
So needed to see this video.
Great! What are you making?
Well I am making some Ron Paulk designed cupboards. I am making up some jigs and found that i need thin 21mm pieces x 800 mm or so pieces. I was right at the end of the sheet. I’d prefer to cut it from the piece I have but this has been problematic as it is quite narrow. So will see if I can try your method before going to a large sheet.
@@murphyrp01 awesome! hope it works out well for you.
Thanks Ben! Just what I needed as I've been fumbling through repeated cuts with only a track saw. Especially with stock that's narrower than the track & without an MFT to hold the track up. Any tips for this?
Hey GM. To support the guide rail, you need support that is the same thickness as the material being cut/ripped. This can be challenging at times and requires a little forward planning. If you don’t have additional pieces to act as a spacer, you can cut some spacer blocks to set up under the guide rail. This can be time consuming, but a necessity when there isn’t an MFT with guide rail supports. It’s very possible, but not preferred 😆 hope this helps and thanks for dropping a question!! 🤜🏻🤛🏻
Wish i found this yesterday before i cut all my thin pieces like crap. Do you ever run into the cut not being perpendicular to the surface if a large portion of the track is floating? Also, what do you do when you get near the end of your peice where it might be too light to stay still while you are cutting? Thanks for the helpful vids!
If your piece isn't square after ripping (or parallel to whatever you referenced), then it is likely that your saw is tipping to one side or the other, which gives a cut edge that isn't 90° to the reference face (face that is against your MFT top). This is why you should always support the entire width of the guide rail as best possible. If you cannot support the entire length of the guide rail, use strips that are the same thickness as the piece you are ripping and place them perpendicular and underneath the guide rail about every 12-15 inches (or about the length of your track saw base plate). This ensures that the entire weight of the track saw is supported and won't lend to tipping. Appreciate the comment!
@@BenMarshallDesigns thank you, Ben. great tips. your squaring tutorial for the MFT3 was also super helpful!
@@swolleneyes 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Hi Ben, thanks for a great video. I don't think I have heard you mention why you chose the TS 75 over the TS 55. I am trying to decide between the two. I have not tried both saws, but I wonder if the extra weight of the TS 75 will make the saw more cumbersome to use.
Hey, Jim, thanks for the comment. I picked the 75 mainly because of the plunge depth. I’m former military, we lived by the adage of “better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it”. It can be a bit Wiley to move the 75 around at times. I’ve also used the 55 and appreciate its smaller form factor. The 55 and 75 are capable machines - however the 75 has the deeper depth capacity and a more powerful motor. I recently wrote a supplemental article for my friends website that talks about this exact problem you’re facing, give it a look.
www.bentswoodworking.com/blog/festool-tracksaw-review-ts-75-vs-ts-55
thanks for the video, I subscribed! i have mft/3 with ts55 for hobby
Appreciate the sub!! Nice, I've used a buddies TS55 before, great bit of kit. I'm holding out for a TSC55!
Hi Ben do you think the mft table can replace the table saw for panel cutting? here in Italy the tablesaws for hobbyists are very poor in cutting quality. Thanks for your time
I believe a track saw and a long guide rail can do the same cuts, just not as quickly
Ben, I would suggest a shim/packer between the melamine stop and base of the rail on the left hand side. The rail will sag, under the weight of the saw as it passes along, and may cause deflection in the cut (burn/blade marks). Have used this technique many times, much safer than having the thin piece on the offside tight between a stop and the blade. The TS saws have a slight left toe-in at the front, so more likely to catch the piece and throw it back towards you if constrained. Hope this helps, Alan
Alan, that makes sense and great tip - thanks for sharing!! I’ve modified this technique since releasing this video, similar to what you have here. Although I think the better solution for me is to just get a table saw 🤣🤣🤣 cheers
@@BenMarshallDesigns Just save up for the new TKS80 Festool Sawstop. I am looking at it for a large on-site joinery contract. The price is staggeringly high, but all your other Festool bits and pieces will attach to it! 😂
@@alaurben if only it were available in the states!!!
@@BenMarshallDesigns Really! I thought that's why they bought Sawstop, in order to get UL approval for their table saws in the US. It may well be pending though. It's a great setup with all the attachments.
@@alaurben from what I understand, festool doesn’t want to infringe on the SawStop market here in the US, so they have no official plans to release the TKS here, which is similar to the sawstop contractor saw
Smart way!
Thanks!
Did you accidentally cut your fence on an angled cut? I was so close to doing but happened to watch Sedge from Festool explain how it may be an issue. Cool vids man.
lol yep!! that was on a mitered cut, and I forgot to back the stop ruler away from the path of the blade. Shop scars!!
@@BenMarshallDesigns Happens! Keep up the good work.
Hello, do this method work for rips thick of 2 mm for example?
Technically yes
Where did you get that apron?
www.leatherbydragonfly.com
genious
Nice simple idea, although I was wondering, would it be viable to add a table saw style rip fence to one side of the track saw cut line to provide repeatable thin rip cuts?
Not sure I follow what you're describing. Do you mean having a positive reference to the right side of the blade to set the width of your cut on the material? This works better with pictures 😂 words aren't great for describing tool use ideas 😂😂
@@BenMarshallDesigns haha yeah struggling to find a way to describe what I mean. Essentially imagine attaching a table saw rip fence system to the right hand side of the cut line. Something like this www.woodworkersjournal.com/wp-content/uploads/n307QARipFenceAdjust.jpg it just seems you could use the ruler on the fence system to quickly set cut dimensions and quick adjustments can be made moving the fence further or closer as needed. I might try draw up my idea tomorrow haha
@@markie1984powell theres something that is similar to what you're saying - although I don't know how well it will work with a Track Saw. www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-3-precision-saw-router-fence-with-incra-incremental-positioning-system/. scroll towards the bottom of the page
@@BenMarshallDesigns that is a fancy bit of kit, unfortunately my budget and workspace is far too small to accommodate that as an option as beautiful as it is haha. I might even just see if I can use a self clamping straight edge as a temporary fence (as long as my mft top is cut at a good 90 degrees to the dog holes)
@@markie1984powell yeah it is. Sometimes we just gotta work with what we have and come up with our own unique solutions.
she never goes to school?!
Lol! They do hybrid now. When I made this video they were doing ALL virtual - and I was still a full time IN SEAT with school. Needless to say - it was a busy time!