Thank you so much for this and all of your videos! I love being able to do these kind of things myself and your process and deliver of information is clear and easy to follow. Well done!
I started reading up on the aluminum foil method after the tin lining of one of my copper pots started to become a more even color of 'black'. The process you're describing here does not really have anything to do with baking soda 'dissolving' encrusted bits of food. It's actually a way of transferring tin oxide onto the aluminum foil via a galvanic process. If you wait too long to remove the darkened piece of foil from the water, the process starts to revers and the tin oxide ends up coating the entire tin lining (instead of the few dark areas you wanted to clean in the first place).
That foil...you taught me something I didn't know. That's pretty cool. Almost like a "non-electric plating" method. Very cool. Sucked the gunk right off it. I'll have to study the science to try and figure out how/why that works.
My method, after having used tinned pots for a while, ended up being two-fold : a) for every day cleaning I would always use washing soda (sodium carbonate) with a soft dish cloth. If any scrubbing was required, say with burnt or stuck food, I'd leave the pot to soak for a couple of hours filled with a warm/hot (as necessary) soda solution, then use a soft natural bristle brush to get rid of most of the stuck food once it had softened up sufficiently. I'd then follow that up with a good wash with the dish cloth and a fresh soda solution or just soda sprinkled directly on the dish cloth. The only drawback of this was the amount of time needed if the pots have food badly stuck and the amount of washing soda you go through. Thankfully, it's cheap. b) If the tarnishing of the tin got quite bad i.e. visually displeasing (usually once every 1-3 months) , I'd use the lye (sodium hydroxide) method, i.e. fill the pot with a warm/hot lye solution and leave it to soak for maybe an hour or as needed, then rinse with fresh water while rubbing with a clean dish cloth. By the way all three, sodium bi-carbonate, sodium carbonate and sodium hydroxide are basic so their solutions are also basic - not acidic. You can use sodium bi-carbonate if you've run out of washing soda of course, it's just that a lot more will be needed (20x more approximately) so it is very costly. The good thing about never using detergents is that, at least in my mind, the pots lining was always safe to cook in as it would stay free or any possibly unwanted chemicals. Of course, sometimes I'd get lazy and use normal dish soap but that was very rare. It's a pleasure taking care of tinned pots so doing it the right way just adds to it anyway. I think I once tried green soap (i.e. made of vegetable oil) but I'd go back to washing soda very fast as it was the best and quickest method for me. I never tried any of the other methods shown here. I wish I had known them but in general, I'd steer clear of any detergents or any non-innocent chemicals. For cleaning the exterior, I'd always use lemon and salt, usually sprinkling salt on half a lemon and use that to rub the exterior. I never bothered with polishing the exterior more than that as it would get tarnished again after the first use anyway. By the way, the exterior is the only part on which I would use a scourer pad or anything abrasive. Never used anything even mildly abrasive on the tin lining - plastic brushes, scourer pads, etc. all forbidden. If you're lazy and you're planning to re-tin anyway, you might be tempted to use the mildest steel wool for the odd spot but only if you know you're going to re-tin soon anyway. Otherwise, a long warm soak works wonders. And the reason you need a cotton dish cloth rather than a plastic sponge is that the cloth allows you to exert a lot more pressure while rubbing so it's a lot more effective at cleaning the tin lining without damaging it. By the way, this also applies to every utensil, not just tinned copper. Dish cloth is far more economical and ecological than replacing plastic sponges every so often. It is also much more sanitary as it does not become a collector of germs in the kitchen after just one week. When you want to freshen it up a bit, just stick it in the washing machine.
I love the aluminum foil method! You can also sandblast with walnut shell media instead of sand. It's inert and soft enough so it won't damage the metal.
I have walnut shells in my arborator, though I haven't used it in the beadblaster. I've found any use of the blaster with any medium can leave behind microscopic debris, though, so I don't use it as much for preparing for tin as I used to. But I like the idea of trying this for cleaning tin linings without having to strip the tin! Thank you!
You are terrific! I have five old copper measuring cups and the quote to clean them was $500! Knowing nothing about copper, I turned to your channel. They were so dirty that I couldn't even tell if they were lined. I submerged them in a foil pan with water, baking soda and foil and boiled for 10 minutes. The pan and the loose foil turned dark. Turns out they are not lined, and I was able to get the remaining residue off with an SOS pad on the inside and bottom. I am concerned about scratching the outside with the SOS, so what else can I use? I watched another one of your videos and learned that unlined copper is not recommended for cooking (these are too small anyway), but I will happily use these for dry and liquid ingredients. They have brass handles which were sealed and seals came off in the baking soda bath, but they are easy to clean. Thanks for the great advice!
Holy cats! $500!!!! WOW! I'm glad you found this channel and tried the baking soda method!! Yes, you're right, the exterior will scratch with SOS. You could get like 800 grit sandpaper, which will still scratch, but is less abrasive than the SOS. Or do the ketchup/vinegar/lemon/flour paste on the outside and see what comes off. :) And yes, these are just find to use unlined as measuring cups, for sure!
😊 thank you lol - I tend to just shoot and go and not do any takes...and yes, I'm that covered in grime half the time. I go grocery shopping and forget to look in a mirror and... oh well. ha!
Your welcome! Lol, yeah there’s nothing more cool then people being real in life - I love it. 😁One day I’ll invest in Copper - I’m an OCD hobby chef, So with attention to detail my middle name, Copper is on the radar! Best of luck with your work and channel. It’s a Good, honest living. ☺️☺️. Nice to meet you! Don’t ever worry about the soot - lol. 😝
I am trying to learn enough from your posts to start retinning several pans. What is the % lye solution you recommend? And the Muratic Acid bath?And how do you store it properly & if need be dispose of it? (live in CA...) Also, I notice several different pans of water / soapy water to dunk after the tinning has been finished. Can you befiefly explain? thanks
Lye is touch and go - I often change it up depending on how well it's cleaning and doing a good job. Start with a pretty low amount in the water - I guess % is hard. How big is your washbin? Muriatic acid can be pretty diluted. Again, percent is hard to gauge not knowing what you're using. Sorry, I know that's not super helpful! And I really don't have a strict formula, I go by how it's all working (or not). Disposal you'll have to check your rules in CA for waste requirements. The pans of soapy water are just that - water and Dawn dish soap to clean off the residual flux and start scrubbing the exterior. :)
Hi there! I bought my wife a beautiful set of pans that had been re-tinned, but they were in storage until we moved to our new home (8 months). They have never been used by the tin has green spots on it that look like rust. What is the best method to remove them? And do I need to season them if they're not going to be used often?
Sounds like verdigris. You can gently remove it with hot water and a soft cloth but be sure to get it all off as that is poisonous. There's a chance the verdigris has eaten the tin and you will have bare copper under it. That's not a usual thing - I typically only see that on vintage pieces that have been out of use for many years, not just some months. And no, you do not season tin - you never do.
Can you make a video on just every day cleaning of tin? We are struggling to keep the tin clean maybe we already messed it up cause it has dark spots every where Im about to try boiling with dish soap and baking soda see what that does
I hope the dish soap and baking soda worked! Some of what you describe is normal/natural wear and tear from tin (especially depending on what you've been cooking, etc). But this is a great idea! I will do a video! Thank you!
@@housecopper I don't mind if it's normal I just worry I've damaged the tin layer it's self. It worked pretty good but I did have to scrub pretty hard with a scour pad, I question at what point am I able to start scratching it or is that even a concern from a scour pad and baking soda?
What about limescale? The typical response is always vinegar/lemon type acids to descale, but I’ve read they could be harsh on the tin. Or maybe weakening the acid with baking soda?
Hi, I had a copper pan retinned a few years ago. Most of the tin surface is smooth, but they made a few drips of tin so there are a few raised places -- sort of like the inside of pan has a few pimples. Should I try sanding it with a fine grit sandpaper? what do you recommend to get the inside surface smooth? S
Good question. So the smooth thing is really just aesthetics - you don't need to make the surface smooth for the efficacy of the pan/tin. If you start to sand, you absolutely will remove layers of tin and will hurry the time when you will need re-tinning done. I'd just wait til you need the re-tinning (after years of use) and the new re-tinning should remove and take away those drips, etc. But if they bother you so much, just yes, 800 grit sandpaper.
How would you recommend cleaning the inside of a tin lined, coffee, pot, creamer, and sugar set? Obviously, the creamer and the sugar bowl which are copper on the outside and tin lined cannot be boiled, so I wonder what you would recommend.
You can boil water in tin-lined copper, which might lift out some of the grime. You could try a paste of baking soda and water or baking soda and vinegar and gently rub that all over the tin. Sometimes tin is just too oxidized to get super shiny again unless it's relined, though.
Can you expand on why to keep metal polishes away from tin? I've seen Wright's Silver Cream recommended for tin linings, and the customer service guy at Flitz metal polish told me their product won't damage tin as it's 6000 grit, so shouldn't remove basically any material. Very interested to hear your thoughts on that.
Tin is just so soft, it's not worth doing any type of grit in my personal opinion. Now - I haven't tried Flitz, so maybe that's something - thank you for the tip!! Most metal polishes (copper & brass) are just not meant for tin linings due to the softness of it. So it's easier to sort of "blanket statement" it than list out which brands are good and which are bad (and I'm always learning of different ones). Some brands actually darken the tin linings (like Wrights Copper polish makes the tin turn dark grey almost immediately).
@@housecopper ahh funny you mention that, Wright's staining tin is why I tried Flitz in the first place. I accidentally smeared some in a pristine tin lining on a nice pan I was giving as a gift, and ended up needing the polish to take the dark spot off. Since then I've used it sparingly on some new vintage acquisitions with stubborn areas of tarnish that resist the baking soda and foil reaction. I'm surprised how shiny it can get decades-old tin, but I also worry about whether it's doing any damage. It would be awesome if you could test it sometime and report your impressions. I'm gearing up to learn retinning but not there yet, so I don't have any pieces that I can really experiment on willy-nilly 😅
The 10" pan I use more than any other is pretty gunky and isn't coming clean very quickly. How long does it normally take to work? Using the baking soda method. Can you combine the two-ie baking soda and soap?
Sometimes it doesn't work completely - depending on how old/oxidized and worn your tin already is. You can try the baking soda and soap, yes, though I don't know if those two will have a worthy chemical reaction together to warrant much success...but if you try it and it works, let us all know!!
Hi I have an 11ish quart copper stock pot that just looks kinda shabby, no copper showing through but the tin is kind of dark, not black, but pretty dark. Id like to try the aluminum and baking soda but its obviously gonna take much more water, but does the same hold true for the baking soda? Is there a ratio?
Sure. Oxidized tin is dark, as you know. :) Yes - if you add more water, you add more baking soda and also some salt. It's not an exact science, though in terms of ratios. For an 11 qt, try to fill as close to the top with water. Add 3-4 Tbsp salt and 3-4 Tbsp baking soda, plus the folded aluminum foil and bring to a low boil for 10 minutes. As it boils, push down the aluminum foil toward the bottom. My friend Mac says to only use a wooden spoon to do any moving of salt, baking soda and aluminum foil as it has no pH and won't ruin any of the chemical activity in there while it boils. :)
Im doing some work for a lady that just gave me a full set of old (Bazar) copper cookware. Can you tell me what the main appeal for using copper over other metals? I know that it is a much better heat conductor but is this the only reason? Also Id like know where to send it for re-tinning. Im in CA.
Hi Gary, the main reason is the extreme control when cooking - conductivity, speed, and efficiency (one needs less heat for less time to get the job done) are also bonuses. I have a video on comparisons, etc. :) My copper shop is located in Wisconsin. Please check out my website and contact me through that if you'd like to learn more about retaining. :)
Your experience is priceless, but your choice of words is driving me nuts! :-) Caustic means "capable of burning, corroding, dissolving, or eating away by chemical action", so it COULD apply to both acids and bases but conventionally it applies only to strong bases like sodium hydroxide that have a high pH in water. Baking soda is also a base but not as strong (and, of course, baking soda is different from baking powder). Acids are the opposite. They have a low pH. So, you really can't have a 'caustic acid'. Then there is 'tin foil'. It is aluminum, not tin. There ain't been tin foil since WWII. Never mind the words, that trick with aluminum foil is really neat. Thanks!
hahahaha - I have a bad habit of just recording off the mouth and popping the video in with the headers and footers and not overthinking or editing - these videos are like me talking to a person and I forget they exist for posterity. You are right that it is all in the wording sometimes...and yes, Bob always reminds me that it's not "tinfoil" hahahaha - so true! Anyway - thank you for watching! :)
What if you put the aluminium foil next to a flame a little bit beforehand so it burns off the protective lacquer it often has,also thanks you for the videos
I actually have not heard of the lacquer on the aluminum foil! I wonder if the foil would just burn or if it would actually melt that lacquer! Something to experiment! Thank you for the idea!!! :)
Hello Mam I listen that when we drown steel pot into silver liquid then it is coating layer of silver on steel pot make video please Mam with chemicals
@@housecopper I know you were being literal, it is just that dirty or not, you are quite easy on the eyes and that made me think like I did when you said what you did. Thank you for your enthusiastic content, your channel has been a help in deciding whether to save for brand-new ss-lined copper ware - or go for the older, much cheaper, second-hand tin-lined ware, and restore this best as I can as a DIY-proposition. Based on many things, I'm leaning towards new, rather than old. Though I’m tempted to dip my toe in the water and try my hand at a single, old piece.
I don't work in steel so I can't help you on that one. Sorry! I don't know if silver polish would work on steel - steel has iron in it, and silver doesn't so I don't imagine they go together very well in terms of polishes and metal combos.
NaOH isn't soapy. That's the fat in your skin turning to soap. Nitrile gloves are cheap and work great to save your skin. Just bought my first copper pot today from the 1800's in rough shape. Thanks for the information.
LOL, I still find my rubber gloves being a tad soapy when handling the NaOH. But thank you for the science lesson - I didn't realize it was my skin!! I haven't had too bad of burns handling lye - probably because I dilute it. But thank you. I hope your 1800s pot is soon refurbished!!! YAY!!!
lol, it is potable water. Sometimes it comes out foggy, then the fog disappears. Other times it is clear as a bell. I don't know. We have a well, as we live out in the country.
@@housecopper Hi, I used metal polisher for copper and brass for over an hour and then retried the boiling in soda method. Came out great for only 12 dollars. On the other pans with faint pink scratch marks , they may have happened when I tried to get those annoying stickers they use at second-hand shops. I will try to send pics. Thanks
Agreed! Most makers don't use nickel anymore for that reason (thank heavens). I don't even know of anyone in the world lining their pans with nickel right now.
@@housecopper A chemical can either be caustic (alkaline) over ph7.6 or acidic ph under 7.6. I have a question. what is the best way to keep copper pan shiny? Mine tarnish after a few days.
@@farrd14 I hear you. Interesting - I just do what the mentors/masters taught me but I love getting extra science whenever I can! As for your question, if your copper is in good shape, use ketchup. Copper does oxidize fast depending on the quality of the copper and the amount of humidity in the air. If ketchup doesn't do the trick, use something like Barkeepers or Eve Stone's Copper/brass polish.
Hello sir hello sir how are you fine I am Pakistan Pakistan on my name is sorry I am copper master is to find Jobs available in Asia no I am job seeker
Thank you for the advice so I can clean and maintain my old Williams Sonoma, the pride of France.
Thank you for watching!
@@housecopper Hey my copper turned a gold color after it was hot and then I put it outside in the cold. Any ideas?
Thank you so much for this and all of your videos! I love being able to do these kind of things myself and your process and deliver of information is clear and easy to follow. Well done!
Thank you so much! Thrilled they are helpful videos!
FYI, NaOH is literally the opposite of acidic. Caustic basically means corrosive, in this case due to basicity (or less precisely, alkalinity).
thank you for correcting me!
I started reading up on the aluminum foil method after the tin lining of one of my copper pots started to become a more even color of 'black'. The process you're describing here does not really have anything to do with baking soda 'dissolving' encrusted bits of food. It's actually a way of transferring tin oxide onto the aluminum foil via a galvanic process. If you wait too long to remove the darkened piece of foil from the water, the process starts to revers and the tin oxide ends up coating the entire tin lining (instead of the few dark areas you wanted to clean in the first place).
Oooo! I didn't know about the waiting too long and it reverses!!! Thank you so so much for sharing!!!!!
That foil...you taught me something I didn't know. That's pretty cool. Almost like a "non-electric plating" method. Very cool. Sucked the gunk right off it. I'll have to study the science to try and figure out how/why that works.
You are very welcome!
My method, after having used tinned pots for a while, ended up being two-fold :
a) for every day cleaning I would always use washing soda (sodium carbonate) with a soft dish cloth. If any scrubbing was required, say with burnt or stuck food, I'd leave the pot to soak for a couple of hours filled with a warm/hot (as necessary) soda solution, then use a soft natural bristle brush to get rid of most of the stuck food once it had softened up sufficiently. I'd then follow that up with a good wash with the dish cloth and a fresh soda solution or just soda sprinkled directly on the dish cloth. The only drawback of this was the amount of time needed if the pots have food badly stuck and the amount of washing soda you go through. Thankfully, it's cheap.
b) If the tarnishing of the tin got quite bad i.e. visually displeasing (usually once every 1-3 months) , I'd use the lye (sodium hydroxide) method, i.e. fill the pot with a warm/hot lye solution and leave it to soak for maybe an hour or as needed, then rinse with fresh water while rubbing with a clean dish cloth.
By the way all three, sodium bi-carbonate, sodium carbonate and sodium hydroxide are basic so their solutions are also basic - not acidic. You can use sodium bi-carbonate if you've run out of washing soda of course, it's just that a lot more will be needed (20x more approximately) so it is very costly.
The good thing about never using detergents is that, at least in my mind, the pots lining was always safe to cook in as it would stay free or any possibly unwanted chemicals.
Of course, sometimes I'd get lazy and use normal dish soap but that was very rare.
It's a pleasure taking care of tinned pots so doing it the right way just adds to it anyway.
I think I once tried green soap (i.e. made of vegetable oil) but I'd go back to washing soda very fast as it was the best and quickest method for me. I never tried any of the other methods shown here. I wish I had known them but in general, I'd steer clear of any detergents or any non-innocent chemicals.
For cleaning the exterior, I'd always use lemon and salt, usually sprinkling salt on half a lemon and use that to rub the exterior. I never bothered with polishing the exterior more than that as it would get tarnished again after the first use anyway.
By the way, the exterior is the only part on which I would use a scourer pad or anything abrasive. Never used anything even mildly abrasive on the tin lining - plastic brushes, scourer pads, etc. all forbidden. If you're lazy and you're planning to re-tin anyway, you might be tempted to use the mildest steel wool for the odd spot but only if you know you're going to re-tin soon anyway. Otherwise, a long warm soak works wonders. And the reason you need a cotton dish cloth rather than a plastic sponge is that the cloth allows you to exert a lot more pressure while rubbing so it's a lot more effective at cleaning the tin lining without damaging it. By the way, this also applies to every utensil, not just tinned copper. Dish cloth is far more economical and ecological than replacing plastic sponges every so often. It is also much more sanitary as it does not become a collector of germs in the kitchen after just one week. When you want to freshen it up a bit, just stick it in the washing machine.
Thank you so so much for sharing all your input and knowledge! It's so great to have this all in one place for others to read and learn!!!
@@housecopperMy pleasure - I am glad you appreciate!
I love the aluminum foil method! You can also sandblast with walnut shell media instead of sand. It's inert and soft enough so it won't damage the metal.
I have walnut shells in my arborator, though I haven't used it in the beadblaster. I've found any use of the blaster with any medium can leave behind microscopic debris, though, so I don't use it as much for preparing for tin as I used to. But I like the idea of trying this for cleaning tin linings without having to strip the tin! Thank you!
You are terrific! I have five old copper measuring cups and the quote to clean them was $500! Knowing nothing about copper, I turned to your channel. They were so dirty that I couldn't even tell if they were lined. I submerged them in a foil pan with water, baking soda and foil and boiled for 10 minutes. The pan and the loose foil turned dark. Turns out they are not lined, and I was able to get the remaining residue off with an SOS pad on the inside and bottom. I am concerned about scratching the outside with the SOS, so what else can I use? I watched another one of your videos and learned that unlined copper is not recommended for cooking (these are too small anyway), but I will happily use these for dry and liquid ingredients. They have brass handles which were sealed and seals came off in the baking soda bath, but they are easy to clean. Thanks for the great advice!
Holy cats! $500!!!! WOW! I'm glad you found this channel and tried the baking soda method!! Yes, you're right, the exterior will scratch with SOS. You could get like 800 grit sandpaper, which will still scratch, but is less abrasive than the SOS. Or do the ketchup/vinegar/lemon/flour paste on the outside and see what comes off. :) And yes, these are just find to use unlined as measuring cups, for sure!
I love the soot on your cheek. So cute. Great vids. Thanks. 😌
😊 thank you lol - I tend to just shoot and go and not do any takes...and yes, I'm that covered in grime half the time. I go grocery shopping and forget to look in a mirror and... oh well. ha!
Your welcome! Lol, yeah there’s nothing more cool then people being real in life - I love it. 😁One day I’ll invest in Copper - I’m an OCD hobby chef, So with attention to detail my middle name, Copper is on the radar! Best of luck with your work and channel. It’s a Good, honest living. ☺️☺️. Nice to meet you! Don’t ever worry about the soot - lol. 😝
I am trying to learn enough from your posts to start retinning several pans. What is the % lye solution you recommend? And the Muratic Acid bath?And how do you store it properly & if need be dispose of it? (live in CA...) Also, I notice several different pans of water / soapy water to dunk after the tinning has been finished. Can you befiefly explain? thanks
Lye is touch and go - I often change it up depending on how well it's cleaning and doing a good job. Start with a pretty low amount in the water - I guess % is hard. How big is your washbin? Muriatic acid can be pretty diluted. Again, percent is hard to gauge not knowing what you're using. Sorry, I know that's not super helpful! And I really don't have a strict formula, I go by how it's all working (or not). Disposal you'll have to check your rules in CA for waste requirements. The pans of soapy water are just that - water and Dawn dish soap to clean off the residual flux and start scrubbing the exterior. :)
Hi, saw one of your vids where a pot had a big crater in the bottom. I think you can mig or tig weld copper---
If there is a hole, the best way to seal it is with braising with bronze using a pretty big acetylene/oxygen set up. But it's doable!
Hi there! I bought my wife a beautiful set of pans that had been re-tinned, but they were in storage until we moved to our new home (8 months). They have never been used by the tin has green spots on it that look like rust. What is the best method to remove them? And do I need to season them if they're not going to be used often?
Sounds like verdigris. You can gently remove it with hot water and a soft cloth but be sure to get it all off as that is poisonous. There's a chance the verdigris has eaten the tin and you will have bare copper under it. That's not a usual thing - I typically only see that on vintage pieces that have been out of use for many years, not just some months. And no, you do not season tin - you never do.
Can you make a video on just every day cleaning of tin? We are struggling to keep the tin clean maybe we already messed it up cause it has dark spots every where
Im about to try boiling with dish soap and baking soda see what that does
I hope the dish soap and baking soda worked! Some of what you describe is normal/natural wear and tear from tin (especially depending on what you've been cooking, etc). But this is a great idea! I will do a video! Thank you!
@@housecopper I don't mind if it's normal I just worry I've damaged the tin layer it's self. It worked pretty good but I did have to scrub pretty hard with a scour pad, I question at what point am I able to start scratching it or is that even a concern from a scour pad and baking soda?
What about limescale? The typical response is always vinegar/lemon type acids to descale, but I’ve read they could be harsh on the tin. Or maybe weakening the acid with baking soda?
Vinegar and lemon aren't harsh on the tin. It's not that delicate. Yes - you can also try baking soda. That won't hurt anything either.
Hi, I had a copper pan retinned a few years ago. Most of the tin surface is smooth, but they made a few drips of tin so there are a few raised places -- sort of like the inside of pan has a few pimples. Should I try sanding it with a fine grit sandpaper? what do you recommend to get the inside surface smooth? S
Good question. So the smooth thing is really just aesthetics - you don't need to make the surface smooth for the efficacy of the pan/tin. If you start to sand, you absolutely will remove layers of tin and will hurry the time when you will need re-tinning done. I'd just wait til you need the re-tinning (after years of use) and the new re-tinning should remove and take away those drips, etc. But if they bother you so much, just yes, 800 grit sandpaper.
Thank you keep it up. Good luck in your business. Joe
Thanks so so much!!!
How would you recommend cleaning the inside of a tin lined, coffee, pot, creamer, and sugar set? Obviously, the creamer and the sugar bowl which are copper on the outside and tin lined cannot be boiled, so I wonder what you would recommend.
You can boil water in tin-lined copper, which might lift out some of the grime. You could try a paste of baking soda and water or baking soda and vinegar and gently rub that all over the tin. Sometimes tin is just too oxidized to get super shiny again unless it's relined, though.
Can you expand on why to keep metal polishes away from tin? I've seen Wright's Silver Cream recommended for tin linings, and the customer service guy at Flitz metal polish told me their product won't damage tin as it's 6000 grit, so shouldn't remove basically any material. Very interested to hear your thoughts on that.
Tin is just so soft, it's not worth doing any type of grit in my personal opinion. Now - I haven't tried Flitz, so maybe that's something - thank you for the tip!! Most metal polishes (copper & brass) are just not meant for tin linings due to the softness of it. So it's easier to sort of "blanket statement" it than list out which brands are good and which are bad (and I'm always learning of different ones). Some brands actually darken the tin linings (like Wrights Copper polish makes the tin turn dark grey almost immediately).
@@housecopper ahh funny you mention that, Wright's staining tin is why I tried Flitz in the first place. I accidentally smeared some in a pristine tin lining on a nice pan I was giving as a gift, and ended up needing the polish to take the dark spot off. Since then I've used it sparingly on some new vintage acquisitions with stubborn areas of tarnish that resist the baking soda and foil reaction. I'm surprised how shiny it can get decades-old tin, but I also worry about whether it's doing any damage. It would be awesome if you could test it sometime and report your impressions. I'm gearing up to learn retinning but not there yet, so I don't have any pieces that I can really experiment on willy-nilly 😅
The 10" pan I use more than any other is pretty gunky and isn't coming clean very quickly. How long does it normally take to work? Using the baking soda method. Can you combine the two-ie baking soda and soap?
Sometimes it doesn't work completely - depending on how old/oxidized and worn your tin already is. You can try the baking soda and soap, yes, though I don't know if those two will have a worthy chemical reaction together to warrant much success...but if you try it and it works, let us all know!!
Hi I have an 11ish quart copper stock pot that just looks kinda shabby, no copper showing through but the tin is kind of dark, not black, but pretty dark. Id like to try the aluminum and baking soda but its obviously gonna take much more water, but does the same hold true for the baking soda? Is there a ratio?
Sure. Oxidized tin is dark, as you know. :) Yes - if you add more water, you add more baking soda and also some salt. It's not an exact science, though in terms of ratios. For an 11 qt, try to fill as close to the top with water. Add 3-4 Tbsp salt and 3-4 Tbsp baking soda, plus the folded aluminum foil and bring to a low boil for 10 minutes. As it boils, push down the aluminum foil toward the bottom. My friend Mac says to only use a wooden spoon to do any moving of salt, baking soda and aluminum foil as it has no pH and won't ruin any of the chemical activity in there while it boils. :)
Im doing some work for a lady that just gave me a full set of old (Bazar) copper cookware. Can you tell me what the main appeal for using copper over other metals? I know that it is a much better heat conductor but is this the only reason? Also Id like know where to send it for re-tinning. Im in CA.
Hi Gary, the main reason is the extreme control when cooking - conductivity, speed, and efficiency (one needs less heat for less time to get the job done) are also bonuses. I have a video on comparisons, etc. :) My copper shop is located in Wisconsin. Please check out my website and contact me through that if you'd like to learn more about retaining. :)
Wonderful!
Many thanks!
Your experience is priceless, but your choice of words is driving me nuts! :-)
Caustic means "capable of burning, corroding, dissolving, or eating away by chemical action", so it COULD apply to both acids and bases but conventionally it applies only to strong bases like sodium hydroxide that have a high pH in water. Baking soda is also a base but not as strong (and, of course, baking soda is different from baking powder). Acids are the opposite. They have a low pH. So, you really can't have a 'caustic acid'. Then there is 'tin foil'. It is aluminum, not tin. There ain't been tin foil since WWII.
Never mind the words, that trick with aluminum foil is really neat. Thanks!
hahahaha - I have a bad habit of just recording off the mouth and popping the video in with the headers and footers and not overthinking or editing - these videos are like me talking to a person and I forget they exist for posterity. You are right that it is all in the wording sometimes...and yes, Bob always reminds me that it's not "tinfoil" hahahaha - so true! Anyway - thank you for watching! :)
Your water looks like milk 🥛 Great tips!
lol - yeah, when it comes out - we have a well, so it's not clear right away. so annoying!
What if you put the aluminium foil next to a flame a little bit beforehand so it burns off the protective lacquer it often has,also thanks you for the videos
I actually have not heard of the lacquer on the aluminum foil! I wonder if the foil would just burn or if it would actually melt that lacquer! Something to experiment! Thank you for the idea!!! :)
What dilution do you use on the caustic soda bath?
Usually it's 1 part soda, 3 parts water, but really depends on how vigorous you need things to clean.
So can you cook in the second pot? Is it safe or clean enough?
Jackie Burns if you are referencing the second pot I clean on the stovetop, then yes it’s both nice and clean and certainly safe.
Works for silver, too.
Oh, thank you for sharing! Great to know!
Hello Mam I listen that when we drown steel pot into silver liquid then it is coating layer of silver on steel pot make video please Mam with chemicals
Sir what you are country
a great video. thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it
You definitely had this gentleman’s interest at “I always look so dirty” lol
LOL. I meant it in the most literal sense (I don't do multiple takes lol - what you see is usually one complete take and then I post).
@@housecopper I know you were being literal, it is just that dirty or not, you are quite easy on the eyes and that made me think like I did when you said what you did.
Thank you for your enthusiastic content, your channel has been a help in deciding whether to save for brand-new ss-lined copper ware - or go for the older, much cheaper, second-hand tin-lined ware, and restore this best as I can as a DIY-proposition. Based on many things, I'm leaning towards new, rather than old. Though I’m tempted to dip my toe in the water and try my hand at a single, old piece.
Mam, how do you silver polish on steel?
I don't work in steel so I can't help you on that one. Sorry! I don't know if silver polish would work on steel - steel has iron in it, and silver doesn't so I don't imagine they go together very well in terms of polishes and metal combos.
Is cooking with copper that much better?
I like to think so, for some things. But I'm admittedly biased.
NaOH isn't soapy. That's the fat in your skin turning to soap. Nitrile gloves are cheap and work great to save your skin.
Just bought my first copper pot today from the 1800's in rough shape. Thanks for the information.
LOL, I still find my rubber gloves being a tad soapy when handling the NaOH. But thank you for the science lesson - I didn't realize it was my skin!! I haven't had too bad of burns handling lye - probably because I dilute it. But thank you. I hope your 1800s pot is soon refurbished!!! YAY!!!
Ewww well I learned something gross but interesting from this comment.
Mam, how do you know silver polish on steel pot,?
Hello! I'm sorry - I'm not entirely sure what you mean by your question!
Was that drinking water??
lol, it is potable water. Sometimes it comes out foggy, then the fog disappears. Other times it is clear as a bell. I don't know. We have a well, as we live out in the country.
I think your cameraman is about to pass out or may be drunk.
lolol
I tried both the soda and the dishwashing liquid and they did not worK
Jackie Burns if the tin is very very old and quite oxidized, you may not see a huge color difference.
@@housecopper Hi, I used metal polisher for copper and brass for over an hour and then retried the boiling in soda method. Came out great for only 12 dollars. On the other pans with faint pink scratch marks , they may have happened when I tried to get those annoying stickers they use at second-hand shops. I will try to send pics. Thanks
Cant send a pic via youtube, but tried to post it on your facebook page. I loke to cook, but hate cheap cookware.
If it is nickel - nickel is too toxic for jewelry and especially food contact.
Agreed! Most makers don't use nickel anymore for that reason (thank heavens). I don't even know of anyone in the world lining their pans with nickel right now.
caustic acid? lol
Just repeating what the tinner (who has been tinning pots for 20+ years) would tell me. LOL
@@housecopper A chemical can either be caustic (alkaline) over ph7.6 or acidic ph under 7.6.
I have a question. what is the best way to keep copper pan shiny? Mine tarnish after a few days.
@@farrd14 I hear you. Interesting - I just do what the mentors/masters taught me but I love getting extra science whenever I can! As for your question, if your copper is in good shape, use ketchup. Copper does oxidize fast depending on the quality of the copper and the amount of humidity in the air. If ketchup doesn't do the trick, use something like Barkeepers or Eve Stone's Copper/brass polish.
Your water looks like1% Skim milk
lol - it's coming from a country well and through an RO system. But thanks for pointing it out. ;)
Hello sir hello sir how are you fine I am Pakistan Pakistan on my name is sorry I am copper master is to find Jobs available in Asia no I am job seeker
Immmh. Immmh. Immmhhh ımmmhhh
Imsaeekrgob
Imcooprmastar
Are you married??
Yup. Happily so, going on 17 years!
Put shoes 👠 on babe.
LOL. :)
Smart, barefoot (in the kitchen🤪) and a smudge on her face- that’s the kind of women I want to marry!
lol, thank you - I'll tell the husband he did good! ;)
@@housecopper why yes… yes he did!