@Natsumidragneelkim There's actually 4 different classifications of cable when it comes to shielding - U/UTP, S/UTP, U/FTP and S/FTP. The letter before the slash indicates whether the cable has an overall outer shield which is to prevent external interference. The letter after the slash indicates whether each pair has its own foil shield, this is to prevent crosstalk between pairs. The cable I'm using is U/FTP which therefore has no outer foil shield but each pair has its own foil shield, in this cable the twists are significantly less tight than U/UTP cable as the foil is there to prevent crosstalk rather than purely relying on the twists. In fact, the U/FTP CAT 6A I'm using here feels to be looser twisted than regular U/UTP CAT 6 or even CAT 5E!
FYI, you're supposed to fold the strands of the coax back onto the outer jacket before sliding the tip on. A lot of strippers will have a sort of comb you can use to brush them back.
Congrats! When my parents built their house 20 years ago, I kept on bugging them to run Ethernet through it. Years later when it was time for cameras and access points they had to run the wires and was a major pain. They asked if this was why I wanted them to run the wires originally!
I’m a spark by trade and I’m very impressed at the job you’ve done. It’s a lot better than the work I come across on the daily. You might struggle getting all them alarm cables down that 20mm tube tho, get a fish tape and some lube. Well in mate. Also at least the rcds in the board are type a rather than type ac
Can't agree more! I'm a spark by trade (Desk Jockey these days who checks in on a fair few AM2/AM2S practical's) and love seeing the standard of work here
Thanks! I think I'll end up running a pair of conduits into the alarm panel, I could just about squeeze the alarm cables down one, but wouldn't have enough room for a CAT 6 run so splitting it into a pair of conduits seems sensible.
I love how much forward planning you have for everything. Reading white papers to confirm solutions! Inspiring! I just wish I had half the patience you show in all your videos.
The work you’ve put in is writ salient on your hands. There’s some immense work that I’m not jealous of. I installed a very rough home network in a single storey house - and that was hard enough. Great effort. Please look after your hands - tools of your trade. +1 for the keystones that don’t require tools. Made things a lot easier.
Good idea going for scolmore accessories because they’re one of few manufacturers that sell absolutely everything so you’ll never struggle to get a match no matter how obscure an accessories you want
Thanks, it was their MiniGrid range that really drew me to them - being able to mix in retractive switches for smart switching while keeping them looking the same as normal switches (as opposed to other brands where you'd need to go to grid switches which look different to their regular switches) really appealed!
1:00:52 That backbox looks shocked you’ve drilled holes in it 😂 Great series of videos, did my house reno in 2020 and this series is taking me back to a lot of the same challenges I found then 😊
Great work. Love seeing the individual parts and standards in each country. Here (Australia/NZ) wall fixtures always come in a fascia and fixture combo. You would terminate and screw the fixture in (again as you mentioned not too close to the plasterboard, especially in older houses the board can be a bit warped so you need a bit of space for the fascia to clip to), then the fascia clips on easily. Surprised this isn’t the norm in more countries. Where we lack though is modular faceplates. We have a modular system of keystone-type modules and cutouts, which are roughly the size of network keystone jacks. They are extremely popular for switches, a very common use is to install a power socket and switch combo, or even a power socket and antenna combo. From what I have seen there are two major vendors, Clipsal and PDL which provide similar but incompatible keystone faceplates and modules. The cutout profile varies between vendors so you do have to do your research if you want to mix and match. I haven’t seen any low-profile versions either which is a shame, as the recessed faceplates look fantastic on the wall in your video.
You are an absolute madman going for shielded cables like that, they look so finicky to terminate! Saying that, non-push through CAT6 is also a nightmare. I don't think it's ever easy. I did like 3 cables and that was enough, fair play for doing 40+. Top work
You bloody hero, thank you! I’m doing exactly the same thing, albeit a slightly smaller scale and I have been procrastinating sitting and punching down 36 cable runs worth of terminations into brick wall chases, there’s not much room to play with. The angled Toolless jacks from Excel will save my soul at this point!
Loving the series! One thing I'd be interested in seeing is how you patch your plasterboard cut-outs. I know there are already videos on TH-cam but they tend to be US centric so seeing one using typical UK materials and products could be really interesting.
Just to echo what others have said, some great work there. Love those modular face plates in combination with the angled keystone jacks. Not come across those before and it looks very neat. If I ever have a lot of spare time on my hands I'll re-do some of my networking to the same standard! It's fine for now though.
I literally swapped my straight keystone plates to the angled euro plates. Acter titti g 2 i tossed the shuttered ones and got shutterless. Makes for less messing about when you are trying to reach around furniture to plug in networking
I don't mind the shutters but I can definitely see the appeal of losing them from an ease of use perspective! Another option could be the Molex DataGate jacks where the "shutter" is built into the Keystone module and is pushed open by pushing the connector in.
Just for your info you can get what are known as slim euro that are only 16mm wide so you can get 3 in a single faceplate or six in a double and dont buy speaker connection plates just make your own buy blank plates and drill them same as f connectors, use a coupler fitted in a drilled hole. As you have some stud walls if you cut the back out of the dry lining box you get a lot more wriggle room
I'm doing similar in my house right now. Coincidentally I'm using the same Excel Cat6a cable etc. My initial mistake was using amazon special keystones. No end of issues, APs that kept dropping from 2.5G to 100M, etc. I bought some of the same Excel Low Profile keystones you're using, and no more issues.
RCBOs are quite expensive compared to regular fuses with an RCD that covers multiple fuses. Also good with a dedicated circuit for the rack, don't run anything more of that. Also a dedicated circuit for the fridge is good. I guess you don't experience negative temperatures, but if you do a dedicated circuit and RCBO for the heating/water is also good.
Do not know if you covered this but it’s not just connectors you needs to consider getting from reputable manufacturers, but also cable! Cheap unbranded cable can cause issues, and once in walls an issue to replace.
This is very true, I probably should have mentioned it! I plan on making a future series on "the basics" when it comes to home networking so this will definitely be part of it!
Another chapter for the bible I'll use now that we're renovating the house! Excellent work Cameron. I wonder if you'd be up for sharing your approximate costs of the material (cables, trunking, plates, hooks, etc). We're lucky we won't have to retrofit but still the materials will be similar. Thanks again for your videos
(7:42) That's an interesting contrast to me, because here in Singapore, the pre-made network faceplates are the most common for residential installations here, followed by Keystone style module faceplates, and Euro modules are the least common. For my flat, I specifically wanted Euro modules so that the network cables would come out angled downwards instead of coming out forwards and getting bent by furniture, but also because I saw such faceplates installed in a building of a school I attended in the 2000s (and only knew they were called Euro modules because of your videos). I think the reason why the pre-made faceplates are the most popular is because companies who install them here use them when replacing pre-made phone jacks in flats built around the late 2000s to mid 2010s as I think those used Cat5e cable, similar to with the media panel in a video where you replaced someone's phone jack with a network jack, but media panels aren't a thing here and the network jack takes up a single gang back box. As far as I can tell, new build HDB flats already have network jacks, but they only allocate one per room. (8:44) Yep! This! Due to a thing I won't talk about here because it'll turn into an off-topic rant, my flat has a mix of electrical fixtures from 3 different ranges, and none of them seem to have Euro module faceplates available, so I instead went with a generic white face plate. I imagine it's just because Euro modules are so uncommon here that they don't bother designing and making Euro module faceplates. (11:40) I should do that. (21:01) I agree, as media panels aren't a thing in Singaporean houses, and what's usually done, at least by the HDB in flats built within the past 2 decades or so, is to just have a row of back boxes, with one double gang box for power sockets and a single gang box for a network jack faceplate. I'm not sure if new HDB complexes have rooftop antenna systems like old ones prior to the '90s had (before eventually being removed), though. Older flats would've of course also had connection points for StarHub cable, but StarHub discontinued their legacy SCV cable network in 2019 and so new builds wouldn't have those. They would've also had connections for Singtel phone lines, but I believe they discontinued their POTS network for residential use and use VoIP instead. (1:08:20) Thanks for helping me appreciate Singaporean homes just having separate accessories arranged in a line, and come to think of it, I won't be surprised if media panels were created as a cost-cutting measure.
It isn't as the keystone module is installed in the plastic shutter which isolates it from the faceplate. I'm not aware of any requirement to earth the faceplate or backbox for a data point.
There is one thing you did miss the opportunity of doing, but I’m not sure how worth it it actually would have been. I personally would have installed a 16 amp commando socket just to allow future expansion but I would also have connected up a clean earth system just because it’s recommended
Those speak on connectors are nice - one to add to my list for the next project - i've got euro module banana plugs which are fine but not as robust - that being said they do take up a lot less space on the panel I think?
Hi Cameron, Thanks for these videos. When you showed the metal conduit in the beginning, my first thought was are there any issues with you doing your own electrical work? Low power stuff like network cabling wouldn't be an issue, however high power 230VAC? Why did you choose U/FTP cables? Are any of your runs greater than 55m, which is the max for Cat 6 to reliably achieve 10 GB? Will you be giving a run down of all the costs you have incurred?
Here in Scotland none of the electrical work I've done here would be classed as building control notifiable so was fine to do myself, of course it still needs to be done in line with the relevant regulations.etc which I've done to the best of my knowledge because I'm a massive nerd and love reading up on this sort of thing! CAT 6A was relatively unneccessary but I wanted to go with something that would last me a long time without needing future upgrades. In particular, I'll be using some of the runs for HDBaseT video distribution, the 2.0 version I'll be using initially is fine with CAT 6, but HDBaseT 3.0 will require CAT 6A. Costs I've incurred could be an interesting video actually, I'll need to see if I can piece together all the costs, especially all the times I've gone to a shop to pick up "just a few bits I need" and come out having somehow spent £200!
@@camerongray1515 That sounds at least normal. Here in Sydney Australia where I live, if I become tired of the colour of a light switch, I CANNOT unscrew it and the electrical terminals. Legally, I MUST call a qualified electrician to do it for me!
@robertsandy3794 Yeah, the situation in Australia definitely seems a bit over the top! I understand the concern about DIY electrical work, however I'd almost feel that being so restricted can end up being dangerous in other ways - if for example someone had a cracked outlet with exposed live parts, if they have to pay for an electrician which they may not be able to afford they'd potentially live with a dangerous situation vs being able to swap it themselves cheaply.
@@camerongray1515 100% agree. I am a Brit now living in Australia and the rules here really annoy me. You're not supposed to do your own DYI network cabling either. It's a joke!
This appears to be a garage if so I would highly highly recommend with a network rack even just using wood studs to build some kind of bars around it in the corner doing something like that because if someone breaks in the garage door which is generally not particularly hard Delays their access to it such that you could trigger things like any automatically en and have things shut down safely in case they cut power
That's definitely an option although it would likely take up too much space in the garage, especially when you factor in the space I'd need around the rack to access and work on it. The garage door is a reasonably secure design and I'll be adding additional deadbolts to it. The garage itself will also be alarmed as its own area which will be armed even when the house is occupied.
I have thoroughly enjoyed watching this series; as it has been extremely useful. I believe the long formats are superior to multiple short video's. Keep up the great work and congratulations on you and your partner getting and upgrading your home. I do have one question. Can you please recommend me an unshielded Excel CAT6a with specs comparable to the one you use. It's just that I don't want to get a bonding busbar, or get into that realm as indicated in your video. Thank you for your time. I am based in the UK like yourself 🙂
Thanks - it's been an unbelievable amount of work but the end result is definitely worth it! For the keystone jacks, if you're sticking with Excel as a brand, the part number would be "100-182" available in both black or white. Of course you'd also need to make sure that you use U/UTP CAT6A cable.
Awesome! Only other thing to bear in mind when it comes to running the cable directly into cameras is whether you'll comfortably be able to get an RJ45 connector crimped onto a CAT 6A cable, it's definitely possible but it'll be tight. You'd also need to be careful running the cable outside if it's not specifically outdoor rated cable - if it's at all exposed to sunlight then you absolutely need outdoor rated cable, if it's entirely hidden inside the camera then it's a bit of a grey area, probably not a huge deal as it won't be exposed to UV, but it may still get exposed to some level of moisture. For my install here (although I forgot to show it on camera) I bought a 100m reel of outdoor rated CAT 6 for cameras - wasn't too expensive, easier to crimp RJ45 ends onto and to manipulate inside tight camera housings and is definitely safe to be used outdoors.
@@camerongray1515 Thank you so much for your time and speed in this matter. I can imagine you are a very busy individual; with work, TH-cam The Miss :-) So again thank you. I will go with Cat 6 for my camera's. Just put the kettle on, cut a slice of cake, and am about to enjoy your next segment! Very excited! You sir have a subscriber for life, and I do hope I can call upon your expertise in the future. Take care and God Bless 🙂
5:20 tiny question. Since it is mainly for a coms rack. Why dint u just install a 32amp or 63a c-plug directly just to have it there as future proofing and then just, fuse of a second pair going to the alarm panel or even better just run another set of wires. my guess would be incoming feed but just cirious 24:14 One note u can get these as NL4 as u have which is 4 wire, or NL2 which is 2 wire. And they are exchangeable to a degree. u can run an NL4 plug in an NL2 and u can run an NL2 plug into an NL4 plate, U would just loose that second pair of signal. Actualy did this when i ran new subwoofer feeds from my rack cuz they were out of NL2's. Granted im also using PA grade amp and Subwoofers but the point still the same. Althou hey the install is comming along lookin nice.
For the power supply, anything beyond a 13A socket simply wasn't going to be necessary - I have to factor in the cost of electricity when it comes to this setup so even drawing 13A continuously would be far too expensive. For the Speakons, I'm using NL4 sockets everywhere just for simplicity but I'm using a mix of NL4 and NL2 depending on the zone
I would love to see your cost breakdown and your hours of labor. Your setup looks like it has the same elements of that of a professional automation service company. I would like to see if your “sweat equity” is in line with what a pro automation company charges. Also have you thought about shades in your home? That will round out your smart home.
I work in IT, however I always like learning about new things so I'm mostly self-taught in all the construction stuff. I tend to absolutely research things to death before I do them.
Also if you're around Edinburgh there's a place at the bush called connectix their own modules and cat cable are decent and reasonably priced. Most of the local wholesalers buy from them. Or if you want to go online they own cable monkey and rakyrax etc.
Speaker level signals aren't really prone to interference in the same way that line level signals are due to the power levels involved. You'd need to be dealing with extremely high power levels for it to be a concern, which is only really going to be a concern in industrial/commercial settings, not the sort of power levels you'd find in a domestic setting.
Hey Camaron, Just wanted to swing by and tell you that your shielding is a bit wrong I believe. Connecting the earth to both ends of your cable will be a huge source of ground loop interference. Basically your great shielding is providing a path for small currents to flow to earth. Instead it's usually recommended to only ground shielding on one side of the cable. Hopefully that helps and might explain some slow speeds you can potentially see with this setup. Great work otherwise, loving the videos
Ground loops are only likely to be an issue if there is a different ground potential between different ends of the cables. This is more of an issue on shielded runs between buildings or ares of buildings with separate electrical installations. In this case everything is bonded together so will be at the same ground potential. In the rare event that a ground loop did occur, all you'd need to do is use an unshielded patch lead between the wall jack and the connected device.
You are right. If the appliance is connected to ground via its power cord and if the Ethernet jack in the device was connected to that ground you will most likely have a potential difference and caused a ground loop.
@@RogierYou I think so too. Long wire rund compared to short ones on the 230v net in addition to flaky AC/DC converters will almost never result in the same GND or earth potential. However Cameron makes a big point in that most premade patch cables are UTP. In that case this is a perfectlyvfine setup!
What cable did you use for wiring the sub through the walls? It looked a bit like the CT100 coax cable, but I would hope it wasn't due to the impedance characteristics of that cable. It's not really great for audio. :)
It is CT100, the general consensus I could find both online and from people who spoke to me directly was that it was absolutely fine for a line level signal to a sub.
@@camerongray1515 Hopefully it won't give you any interference and it will be fine. The impedance mismatch may not be such a big issue. Line level is 10Kohm or higher, where is CT100 cable is designed with a nominal 75ohm impedance. This can cause issues in some systems, though some will compensate for the mismatch. It is hard to find information on it, some say good, some say becareful. I just err on the side of caution due to knowing the electrical specs I guess 🙂
My understanding is that the cable impedance only matters at high frequencies such as those involved in analogue video, radio or digital communications and it's basically irrelevant at the low frequencies involved in analogue audio transmission, especially for a sub. The majority of cables sold for line level audio don't even publish an impedance value and those that do are generally doing so as they are being sold as also suitable for digital audio applications. At any rate, it's working absolutely flawlessly as I listen to it while I write this.
@@camerongray1515 Excellent news. I am glad to hear someone who is actually using it saying it works flawlessly. I am not sure your standard single ended RCA to RCA cables have a particular impedance as such, other than the usual resistance for the length of cable, as they are a standard insulated wire with a copper shield, where as in coax it is a dielectric around the centre conductor. You are likely correct that at low frequency it will make little to no difference. I will have to run some testing to see whether it makes any difference with running coax vs converting to a balanced signal, then back to single ended. I am guessing, based on your experience, it will likely be completely unnoticeable. I am thankful to hear you are having a flawless experience with it as I have been more cautious myself, but at the same time looking for a solution to a fairly long cable run that will only have line level on it
I've seen those weird BT sockets, what even are those? Is there a possibility for those to be replaced with RJ45 sockets? How are those connected? I would love to see a video like this great one that explains it.
Genuinely wondering if you have had a discussion about the order to do the rooms in, for example bedroom 1 first so it is decorated and carpeted and is done quicker! 😊
Not really, due to needing to make holes in the floor across the entirety of upstairs to run the downstairs cables, we just had to live without flooring anything upstairs (except one room above the garage). Now that the cables are in, we'll floor the entire upstairs in one go - doing the vinyl plank ourselves but getting people in to do the carpet so makes sense to just get all that done in one go. If we'd needed to chase walls then there would definitely need to be more of a plan around which rooms to do first.
It's a new build but not a self build - built by a large developer as part of a large estate from existing plans. Self-build is much less common in the UK and is out of reach for most people. With a house like mine, you can often request some alterations such as network runs or additional sockets/lights, however you'd need to pay per run (at a fairly high price) and they'd be unlikely to do anything particularly unusual such as dropping cables through the garage ceiling or leaving running specialised cables such as speaker cables. We also purchased relatively late in the process where the house was almost completed, we got a decent deal because of this but didn't really have the ability to pick any extras/changes.
To do EMT conduit here is the USA you don't need extra tools besides a EMT Bender, hack saw or you can get a Dewalt or another brand bandsaw or sawsaw and emt reamer. The expense is the battery powered saws and EMT and the metal boxes emt connectors and supplies for installation... the EMT reamer is on some of the #kline tools used for the emt connectors. Really just a slotted screw driver and reamer in one. You all have to use rigid conduit and have to thread your pipes with a pipe threader by hand unless you have a very expensive tool for rigid pipe threading.
I'm not overly familiar with USA cable containment, but from the research I did while learning how to install what I have here, it looks like what we call steel conduit is what you'd call "rigid" as it requires threading and very expensive benders (compared to the benders you'd use for EMT). I'm just going to need to use pre-made bends for this. We don't really have a lighter duty version that would be equivalent to EMT, generally light duty applications here would just use PVC conduit, although that wouldn't have been ideal here due to the fire barrier ceiling.
I definitely could, I bought this plate as a quick, low effort solution but I'll probably pick up some blanking plates to match my other electrical accessories and try drilling them.
Have you made a video or spoken about what you do for work? It sounds like you work in a datacenter or at least have a lot of experience in networking. You should consider it if you haven't already and feel comfortable talking about it
I was hoping you'd talk a bit more about the construction of your house as that's the first thing to consider when doing this kind of project. It appears to have stud walls all over, even on outside walls? No dot and dab? Do you know what this kind of construction is called?
It's a timber framed house with an outer blockwork and render skin. Most UK new builds from large developers are now using the same system - they may look to be brick/block but that's just the outer layer, the inner structure is all timber. Most of the timber panels are assembled offsite in a factory and then they are bolted together onsite before the roof (which is also bolted togeher onsite) is then lifted on top with a crane. Afterwards the outer brick/block walls are built and tied into the inner structure. Similarly the upper floors are made of pre-fabricated panels consisting of i-joists attached to a layer of OSB, these are lifted in on top of the downstairs structure and bolted together before the upstairs walls are installed. It's impressive watching how quick this system makes it to build a house - they can go from a bare concrete slab to a completed frame in a few hours!
Orei actually saw that video and off the back of that have sent me their higher end UHD88-EXB400R-K 8x8 HDBaseT matrix to use for my video distribution project. More inputs/outputs, uses the HDBaseT standard and has analogue audio outputs which I'll be feeding into the multiroom audio setup
Longer term that would be my plan, but the current split load arrangement is still compliant, albeit not my preference. I just wanted to keep things simple for now and will convert the consumer unit to be fully RCBO when I have more time.
One feature that might make the Brother printer even better for networking would be PoE charging 😂 Imagine… you’re on a job site and it’s run out of charge… worry not! Just plug it into any available network jack connected to a PoE switch and charge it up without having to bring a charger with you Anyway, an incredible video that goes above and beyond some of the most impressive other homelabs I’ve seen.
It probably is, however I was just working off of the guidance document linked in the description. The cable was £20 or something, not a huge cost in the overall scheme of things.
Speakon, not the best solution. This is very much for PA systems and not home audio. Considering you were trying to keep your other wires close to the wall by angling the down, you are doing completely the opposite with speakon 😵💫😵💫
I just wanted to try them out, I was going to use them for the patch panel at any rate so thought I'd try them behind the living room TV to see how it turned out. The angled keystones were more of a "nice to have" for various network sockets including ones behind wall mounted TVs or under desks, they aren't as big a deal for behind the living room TV cabinet where there's loads of space.
The only thing I found disturbing in this video, I have no idea what camera you are using to film these videos with, turn off auto zoom on the camera. To film your videos, take the camera outside, set the camera on a tripod, and after turning off auto focus, focus your camera at something far away, a tree or car a block away works. Now as long as you never touch your focus, any zoom level, everything is in focus.
The autofocus isn't ideal - it's a new camera I've bought just for this project (DJI Osmo Pocket 3) so I'm still getting used to it. However setting the focus to infinity (which us what you described) wouldn't really be a solution as it then won't focus on things that are up close which is what I'm trying to do here, especially since the Osmo Pocket has a pretty wide, fixed apperture lens.
As a non-english speaking person it is a little hard to understand when you speak that fast. If you speak slower, it is easier to understand and it is easier to process everything you say :) Edit: when I set the playback speed to 0,75x in youtube it was ok
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Stp shielded twisted pair it's actually tighter twisted then utp unshielded twisted pair
@Natsumidragneelkim There's actually 4 different classifications of cable when it comes to shielding - U/UTP, S/UTP, U/FTP and S/FTP. The letter before the slash indicates whether the cable has an overall outer shield which is to prevent external interference. The letter after the slash indicates whether each pair has its own foil shield, this is to prevent crosstalk between pairs. The cable I'm using is U/FTP which therefore has no outer foil shield but each pair has its own foil shield, in this cable the twists are significantly less tight than U/UTP cable as the foil is there to prevent crosstalk rather than purely relying on the twists. In fact, the U/FTP CAT 6A I'm using here feels to be looser twisted than regular U/UTP CAT 6 or even CAT 5E!
FYI, you're supposed to fold the strands of the coax back onto the outer jacket before sliding the tip on. A lot of strippers will have a sort of comb you can use to brush them back.
I LOVe your long format videos. Probably better than sitting down and watching a movie.
It's better than watching Pinocchio.
Congrats!
When my parents built their house 20 years ago, I kept on bugging them to run Ethernet through it. Years later when it was time for cameras and access points they had to run the wires and was a major pain. They asked if this was why I wanted them to run the wires originally!
This series about your new house is absolutely brilliant! Always makes a day better having a lovely long video to sit down and enjoy!
I’m a spark by trade and I’m very impressed at the job you’ve done. It’s a lot better than the work I come across on the daily. You might struggle getting all them alarm cables down that 20mm tube tho, get a fish tape and some lube.
Well in mate.
Also at least the rcds in the board are type a rather than type ac
Lube solves everything. 😂
Can't agree more! I'm a spark by trade (Desk Jockey these days who checks in on a fair few AM2/AM2S practical's) and love seeing the standard of work here
Thanks! I think I'll end up running a pair of conduits into the alarm panel, I could just about squeeze the alarm cables down one, but wouldn't have enough room for a CAT 6 run so splitting it into a pair of conduits seems sensible.
I love how much forward planning you have for everything. Reading white papers to confirm solutions! Inspiring! I just wish I had half the patience you show in all your videos.
Thanks! Although what you haven't seen is the lack of patience and swearing that has happened off camera!
An one of the best things is the Cameron has consistently pulled cable through existing builds. Now I have done the same. Thank you!
The work you’ve put in is writ salient on your hands.
There’s some immense work that I’m not jealous of. I installed a very rough home network in a single storey house - and that was hard enough. Great effort.
Please look after your hands - tools of your trade.
+1 for the keystones that don’t require tools. Made things a lot easier.
It's definitely amazing how much work this has taken! Much blood has been shed!
Good idea going for scolmore accessories because they’re one of few manufacturers that sell absolutely everything so you’ll never struggle to get a match no matter how obscure an accessories you want
Thanks, it was their MiniGrid range that really drew me to them - being able to mix in retractive switches for smart switching while keeping them looking the same as normal switches (as opposed to other brands where you'd need to go to grid switches which look different to their regular switches) really appealed!
1:00:52 That backbox looks shocked you’ve drilled holes in it 😂
Great series of videos, did my house reno in 2020 and this series is taking me back to a lot of the same challenges I found then 😊
Great video, Cameron - really comprehensive and very neatly done!
Cameron has really helped me get a very nice setup at my home
Great work. Love seeing the individual parts and standards in each country. Here (Australia/NZ) wall fixtures always come in a fascia and fixture combo. You would terminate and screw the fixture in (again as you mentioned not too close to the plasterboard, especially in older houses the board can be a bit warped so you need a bit of space for the fascia to clip to), then the fascia clips on easily. Surprised this isn’t the norm in more countries. Where we lack though is modular faceplates. We have a modular system of keystone-type modules and cutouts, which are roughly the size of network keystone jacks. They are extremely popular for switches, a very common use is to install a power socket and switch combo, or even a power socket and antenna combo. From what I have seen there are two major vendors, Clipsal and PDL which provide similar but incompatible keystone faceplates and modules. The cutout profile varies between vendors so you do have to do your research if you want to mix and match. I haven’t seen any low-profile versions either which is a shame, as the recessed faceplates look fantastic on the wall in your video.
The 2 week wait is finally over! Thanks Cameron!
You are an absolute madman going for shielded cables like that, they look so finicky to terminate! Saying that, non-push through CAT6 is also a nightmare. I don't think it's ever easy. I did like 3 cables and that was enough, fair play for doing 40+. Top work
Excellent video! This brings back memories of when I started wiring my home with network/AV/coax cables back in the late 90s.
Good call on the Speakon connectors over binding posts. Nice job.
Brill stuff great job very neat and tidy really starting to look good. Thanks for sharing
You bloody hero, thank you! I’m doing exactly the same thing, albeit a slightly smaller scale and I have been procrastinating sitting and punching down 36 cable runs worth of terminations into brick wall chases, there’s not much room to play with. The angled Toolless jacks from Excel will save my soul at this point!
Loving the series! One thing I'd be interested in seeing is how you patch your plasterboard cut-outs. I know there are already videos on TH-cam but they tend to be US centric so seeing one using typical UK materials and products could be really interesting.
Well Done! Both informative and educational. Carry on...
This is awesome Cameron! You should move houses more often!
It's Friday evening, I have a beer, some nuts and over an hour of networking installs. Perfect. 🙂
You either fought a bear or a cat, those battle scars can mean either lol
The joys of fighting chipboard flooring and insulation!
Just to echo what others have said, some great work there. Love those modular face plates in combination with the angled keystone jacks. Not come across those before and it looks very neat. If I ever have a lot of spare time on my hands I'll re-do some of my networking to the same standard! It's fine for now though.
Loving the series! Thank you Cameron!
Thank you for being so in-depth, fantastic video!
Get in. That’s Friday night sorted - a beer and lonnng video. Keep up the good work.
Really enjoying this series! Thanks!
I’ve been waiting a while. Absolutely loving ur series. Currently upgrading the network in my studio
Great series Cameron 👏 I just moved into same house so it a must watch, keep up great work
Awesome video. Love your enthusiasm.
I learned a few things from this video, thanks for making and sharing
I knew it was a Acorn A5000 in the other video, but couldn't quite see the left part! Nice to see it now :).
these videos are amazing...Im learning loads but youre giving me too any ideas....my wife isnt going to be happy
I literally swapped my straight keystone plates to the angled euro plates. Acter titti g 2 i tossed the shuttered ones and got shutterless. Makes for less messing about when you are trying to reach around furniture to plug in networking
I don't mind the shutters but I can definitely see the appeal of losing them from an ease of use perspective! Another option could be the Molex DataGate jacks where the "shutter" is built into the Keystone module and is pushed open by pushing the connector in.
Just for your info you can get what are known as slim euro that are only 16mm wide so you can get 3 in a single faceplate or six in a double and dont buy speaker connection plates just make your own buy blank plates and drill them same as f connectors, use a coupler fitted in a drilled hole. As you have some stud walls if you cut the back out of the dry lining box you get a lot more wriggle room
As always, great video!
I'm doing similar in my house right now. Coincidentally I'm using the same Excel Cat6a cable etc.
My initial mistake was using amazon special keystones. No end of issues, APs that kept dropping from 2.5G to 100M, etc.
I bought some of the same Excel Low Profile keystones you're using, and no more issues.
That house is going to be too smart. 🤖
RCBOs are quite expensive compared to regular fuses with an RCD that covers multiple fuses. Also good with a dedicated circuit for the rack, don't run anything more of that. Also a dedicated circuit for the fridge is good. I guess you don't experience negative temperatures, but if you do a dedicated circuit and RCBO for the heating/water is also good.
Hager ones are, but the likes of fusebox and click are very affordable now. About a tenner ex vat
Haven’t fit a split load db in years, not worth the hassle
Love these videos
Do not know if you covered this but it’s not just connectors you needs to consider getting from reputable manufacturers, but also cable! Cheap unbranded cable can cause issues, and once in walls an issue to replace.
This is very true, I probably should have mentioned it! I plan on making a future series on "the basics" when it comes to home networking so this will definitely be part of it!
Wow your clever, your work is so neat and tidy, how did you learn all this, thanks for the video 👍🏻
Looking forward to seeing you set up your security intruder and CCTV system
Another chapter for the bible I'll use now that we're renovating the house! Excellent work Cameron. I wonder if you'd be up for sharing your approximate costs of the material (cables, trunking, plates, hooks, etc). We're lucky we won't have to retrofit but still the materials will be similar. Thanks again for your videos
Just use a 20mm galv coupler to space dual socket to fcu. Great video
(7:42) That's an interesting contrast to me, because here in Singapore, the pre-made network faceplates are the most common for residential installations here, followed by Keystone style module faceplates, and Euro modules are the least common. For my flat, I specifically wanted Euro modules so that the network cables would come out angled downwards instead of coming out forwards and getting bent by furniture, but also because I saw such faceplates installed in a building of a school I attended in the 2000s (and only knew they were called Euro modules because of your videos).
I think the reason why the pre-made faceplates are the most popular is because companies who install them here use them when replacing pre-made phone jacks in flats built around the late 2000s to mid 2010s as I think those used Cat5e cable, similar to with the media panel in a video where you replaced someone's phone jack with a network jack, but media panels aren't a thing here and the network jack takes up a single gang back box. As far as I can tell, new build HDB flats already have network jacks, but they only allocate one per room.
(8:44) Yep! This!
Due to a thing I won't talk about here because it'll turn into an off-topic rant, my flat has a mix of electrical fixtures from 3 different ranges, and none of them seem to have Euro module faceplates available, so I instead went with a generic white face plate. I imagine it's just because Euro modules are so uncommon here that they don't bother designing and making Euro module faceplates.
(11:40) I should do that.
(21:01) I agree, as media panels aren't a thing in Singaporean houses, and what's usually done, at least by the HDB in flats built within the past 2 decades or so, is to just have a row of back boxes, with one double gang box for power sockets and a single gang box for a network jack faceplate. I'm not sure if new HDB complexes have rooftop antenna systems like old ones prior to the '90s had (before eventually being removed), though.
Older flats would've of course also had connection points for StarHub cable, but StarHub discontinued their legacy SCV cable network in 2019 and so new builds wouldn't have those. They would've also had connections for Singtel phone lines, but I believe they discontinued their POTS network for residential use and use VoIP instead.
(1:08:20) Thanks for helping me appreciate Singaporean homes just having separate accessories arranged in a line, and come to think of it, I won't be surprised if media panels were created as a cost-cutting measure.
1:05:15 is the cat6a ground wire also providing an earth for the faceplate and back box?
It isn't as the keystone module is installed in the plastic shutter which isolates it from the faceplate. I'm not aware of any requirement to earth the faceplate or backbox for a data point.
thankyou for the level of detail.
Great job mate
There is one thing you did miss the opportunity of doing, but I’m not sure how worth it it actually would have been. I personally would have installed a 16 amp commando socket just to allow future expansion but I would also have connected up a clean earth system just because it’s recommended
Awesome video! Where did you get the network face plates and modules from?
24:30 Speakon exists in 2, 4 and 8 pole (1,2 and 4 indipendant signals)
Those speak on connectors are nice - one to add to my list for the next project - i've got euro module banana plugs which are fine but not as robust - that being said they do take up a lot less space on the panel I think?
I wish we could get those angled jacks in Australia!
Have you decided on thermostat/boiler control, looks like you tried a few over the years. Great videos thanks
Hi Cameron,
Thanks for these videos. When you showed the metal conduit in the beginning, my first thought was are there any issues with you doing your own electrical work?
Low power stuff like network cabling wouldn't be an issue, however high power 230VAC?
Why did you choose U/FTP cables? Are any of your runs greater than 55m, which is the max for Cat 6 to reliably achieve 10 GB?
Will you be giving a run down of all the costs you have incurred?
Here in Scotland none of the electrical work I've done here would be classed as building control notifiable so was fine to do myself, of course it still needs to be done in line with the relevant regulations.etc which I've done to the best of my knowledge because I'm a massive nerd and love reading up on this sort of thing! CAT 6A was relatively unneccessary but I wanted to go with something that would last me a long time without needing future upgrades. In particular, I'll be using some of the runs for HDBaseT video distribution, the 2.0 version I'll be using initially is fine with CAT 6, but HDBaseT 3.0 will require CAT 6A. Costs I've incurred could be an interesting video actually, I'll need to see if I can piece together all the costs, especially all the times I've gone to a shop to pick up "just a few bits I need" and come out having somehow spent £200!
@@camerongray1515 That sounds at least normal. Here in Sydney Australia where I live, if I become tired of the colour of a light switch, I CANNOT unscrew it and the electrical terminals.
Legally, I MUST call a qualified electrician to do it for me!
@robertsandy3794 Yeah, the situation in Australia definitely seems a bit over the top! I understand the concern about DIY electrical work, however I'd almost feel that being so restricted can end up being dangerous in other ways - if for example someone had a cracked outlet with exposed live parts, if they have to pay for an electrician which they may not be able to afford they'd potentially live with a dangerous situation vs being able to swap it themselves cheaply.
@@camerongray1515 100% agree. I am a Brit now living in Australia and the rules here really annoy me. You're not supposed to do your own DYI network cabling either. It's a joke!
This appears to be a garage if so I would highly highly recommend with a network rack even just using wood studs to build some kind of bars around it in the corner doing something like that because if someone breaks in the garage door which is generally not particularly hard Delays their access to it such that you could trigger things like any automatically en and have things shut down safely in case they cut power
That's definitely an option although it would likely take up too much space in the garage, especially when you factor in the space I'd need around the rack to access and work on it. The garage door is a reasonably secure design and I'll be adding additional deadbolts to it. The garage itself will also be alarmed as its own area which will be armed even when the house is occupied.
I have thoroughly enjoyed watching this series; as it has been extremely useful. I believe the long formats are superior to multiple short video's. Keep up the great work and congratulations on you and your partner getting and upgrading your home. I do have one question. Can you please recommend me an unshielded Excel CAT6a with specs comparable to the one you use. It's just that I don't want to get a bonding busbar, or get into that realm as indicated in your video. Thank you for your time. I am based in the UK like yourself 🙂
Thanks - it's been an unbelievable amount of work but the end result is definitely worth it! For the keystone jacks, if you're sticking with Excel as a brand, the part number would be "100-182" available in both black or white. Of course you'd also need to make sure that you use U/UTP CAT6A cable.
@@camerongray1515 Your a star thank you :-) also going to use this cable to unifi camera's etc 🙂
Awesome! Only other thing to bear in mind when it comes to running the cable directly into cameras is whether you'll comfortably be able to get an RJ45 connector crimped onto a CAT 6A cable, it's definitely possible but it'll be tight. You'd also need to be careful running the cable outside if it's not specifically outdoor rated cable - if it's at all exposed to sunlight then you absolutely need outdoor rated cable, if it's entirely hidden inside the camera then it's a bit of a grey area, probably not a huge deal as it won't be exposed to UV, but it may still get exposed to some level of moisture. For my install here (although I forgot to show it on camera) I bought a 100m reel of outdoor rated CAT 6 for cameras - wasn't too expensive, easier to crimp RJ45 ends onto and to manipulate inside tight camera housings and is definitely safe to be used outdoors.
@@camerongray1515 Thank you so much for your time and speed in this matter. I can imagine you are a very busy individual; with work, TH-cam The Miss :-) So again thank you. I will go with Cat 6 for my camera's. Just put the kettle on, cut a slice of cake, and am about to enjoy your next segment! Very excited! You sir have a subscriber for life, and I do hope I can call upon your expertise in the future. Take care and God Bless 🙂
Whats the red tshirt your wearing in the start of the video? looks amazing and love the content
5:20 tiny question. Since it is mainly for a coms rack. Why dint u just install a 32amp or 63a c-plug directly just to have it there as future proofing and then just, fuse of a second pair going to the alarm panel or even better just run another set of wires. my guess would be incoming feed but just cirious
24:14 One note u can get these as NL4 as u have which is 4 wire, or NL2 which is 2 wire. And they are exchangeable to a degree. u can run an NL4 plug in an NL2 and u can run an NL2 plug into an NL4 plate, U would just loose that second pair of signal. Actualy did this when i ran new subwoofer feeds from my rack cuz they were out of NL2's. Granted im also using PA grade amp and Subwoofers but the point still the same.
Althou hey the install is comming along lookin nice.
For the power supply, anything beyond a 13A socket simply wasn't going to be necessary - I have to factor in the cost of electricity when it comes to this setup so even drawing 13A continuously would be far too expensive. For the Speakons, I'm using NL4 sockets everywhere just for simplicity but I'm using a mix of NL4 and NL2 depending on the zone
@@camerongray1515 ah ok, makes sense.
I would love to see your cost breakdown and your hours of labor. Your setup looks like it has the same elements of that of a professional automation service company. I would like to see if your “sweat equity” is in line with what a pro automation company charges. Also have you thought about shades in your home? That will round out your smart home.
Awesome vid. Where did you find those angled Rj45 modules? Thanx!
Do you work in IT, Electrician, builder or something? You know loads of stuff about loads of stuff.
I'm pretty sure he works in IT. Not sure what his involvement is with the other stuff though
I work in IT - I would bet my car that Cameron also does!
@@VW_Fan I work in IT but I can't do any of the electrical stuff.
I work in IT, however I always like learning about new things so I'm mostly self-taught in all the construction stuff. I tend to absolutely research things to death before I do them.
@@camerongray1515 curious to know what area you work in? I look after infrastructure.
Hi Cameron great videos! Do you have a link to what brand of RJ45’s plugs you use for the Ethernet cable? Many thanks
Also if you're around Edinburgh there's a place at the bush called connectix their own modules and cat cable are decent and reasonably priced. Most of the local wholesalers buy from them. Or if you want to go online they own cable monkey and rakyrax etc.
Are you worried about the interference from the electrical wire on the speaker wire at all?
Speaker level signals aren't really prone to interference in the same way that line level signals are due to the power levels involved. You'd need to be dealing with extremely high power levels for it to be a concern, which is only really going to be a concern in industrial/commercial settings, not the sort of power levels you'd find in a domestic setting.
Hey Camaron, Just wanted to swing by and tell you that your shielding is a bit wrong I believe. Connecting the earth to both ends of your cable will be a huge source of ground loop interference. Basically your great shielding is providing a path for small currents to flow to earth. Instead it's usually recommended to only ground shielding on one side of the cable. Hopefully that helps and might explain some slow speeds you can potentially see with this setup.
Great work otherwise, loving the videos
Ground loops are only likely to be an issue if there is a different ground potential between different ends of the cables. This is more of an issue on shielded runs between buildings or ares of buildings with separate electrical installations. In this case everything is bonded together so will be at the same ground potential. In the rare event that a ground loop did occur, all you'd need to do is use an unshielded patch lead between the wall jack and the connected device.
@@camerongray1515 nice work, I would've assumed you had your reasoning, just wanted to know. Can't wait for the next episode! 😎
You are right.
If the appliance is connected to ground via its power cord and if the Ethernet jack in the device was connected to that ground you will most likely have a potential difference and caused a ground loop.
@@RogierYou I think so too. Long wire rund compared to short ones on the 230v net in addition to flaky AC/DC converters will almost never result in the same GND or earth potential. However Cameron makes a big point in that most premade patch cables are UTP. In that case this is a perfectlyvfine setup!
@@lolimpol yep it’s unlikely that the Ethernet jack on the printer will be grounded :-)
If you are only doing a little conduit there's a product line called conlock. No threading needed you just tighten a grub screw.
What cable did you use for wiring the sub through the walls?
It looked a bit like the CT100 coax cable, but I would hope it wasn't due to the impedance characteristics of that cable. It's not really great for audio. :)
It is CT100, the general consensus I could find both online and from people who spoke to me directly was that it was absolutely fine for a line level signal to a sub.
@@camerongray1515 Hopefully it won't give you any interference and it will be fine. The impedance mismatch may not be such a big issue. Line level is 10Kohm or higher, where is CT100 cable is designed with a nominal 75ohm impedance. This can cause issues in some systems, though some will compensate for the mismatch.
It is hard to find information on it, some say good, some say becareful. I just err on the side of caution due to knowing the electrical specs I guess 🙂
My understanding is that the cable impedance only matters at high frequencies such as those involved in analogue video, radio or digital communications and it's basically irrelevant at the low frequencies involved in analogue audio transmission, especially for a sub. The majority of cables sold for line level audio don't even publish an impedance value and those that do are generally doing so as they are being sold as also suitable for digital audio applications. At any rate, it's working absolutely flawlessly as I listen to it while I write this.
@@camerongray1515 Excellent news. I am glad to hear someone who is actually using it saying it works flawlessly. I am not sure your standard single ended RCA to RCA cables have a particular impedance as such, other than the usual resistance for the length of cable, as they are a standard insulated wire with a copper shield, where as in coax it is a dielectric around the centre conductor. You are likely correct that at low frequency it will make little to no difference.
I will have to run some testing to see whether it makes any difference with running coax vs converting to a balanced signal, then back to single ended. I am guessing, based on your experience, it will likely be completely unnoticeable.
I am thankful to hear you are having a flawless experience with it as I have been more cautious myself, but at the same time looking for a solution to a fairly long cable run that will only have line level on it
I've seen those weird BT sockets, what even are those? Is there a possibility for those to be replaced with RJ45 sockets? How are those connected? I would love to see a video like this great one that explains it.
Genuinely wondering if you have had a discussion about the order to do the rooms in, for example bedroom 1 first so it is decorated and carpeted and is done quicker! 😊
Not really, due to needing to make holes in the floor across the entirety of upstairs to run the downstairs cables, we just had to live without flooring anything upstairs (except one room above the garage). Now that the cables are in, we'll floor the entire upstairs in one go - doing the vinyl plank ourselves but getting people in to do the carpet so makes sense to just get all that done in one go. If we'd needed to chase walls then there would definitely need to be more of a plan around which rooms to do first.
Is rg6 capable of running a subwoofer without any problems?
Why did you go for shielded CAT cables?
Did you build your house? If so, did you have the option to have the wiring done while it was being built?
It's a new build but not a self build - built by a large developer as part of a large estate from existing plans. Self-build is much less common in the UK and is out of reach for most people. With a house like mine, you can often request some alterations such as network runs or additional sockets/lights, however you'd need to pay per run (at a fairly high price) and they'd be unlikely to do anything particularly unusual such as dropping cables through the garage ceiling or leaving running specialised cables such as speaker cables. We also purchased relatively late in the process where the house was almost completed, we got a decent deal because of this but didn't really have the ability to pick any extras/changes.
Use the Neutrik MFD mounting frames to avoid faffing with the M3 nuts.
To do EMT conduit here is the USA you don't need extra tools besides a EMT Bender, hack saw or you can get a Dewalt or another brand bandsaw or sawsaw and emt reamer. The expense is the battery powered saws and EMT and the metal boxes emt connectors and supplies for installation... the EMT reamer is on some of the #kline tools used for the emt connectors. Really just a slotted screw driver and reamer in one. You all have to use rigid conduit and have to thread your pipes with a pipe threader by hand unless you have a very expensive tool for rigid pipe threading.
I'm not overly familiar with USA cable containment, but from the research I did while learning how to install what I have here, it looks like what we call steel conduit is what you'd call "rigid" as it requires threading and very expensive benders (compared to the benders you'd use for EMT). I'm just going to need to use pre-made bends for this. We don't really have a lighter duty version that would be equivalent to EMT, generally light duty applications here would just use PVC conduit, although that wouldn't have been ideal here due to the fire barrier ceiling.
I wish some on these were avaible in us the module boxes are cool and have good pratical use for me but now i cant have em lol
Could you make your own thing for the speakon with a double blanking plate? Might work if you take your time!
I definitely could, I bought this plate as a quick, low effort solution but I'll probably pick up some blanking plates to match my other electrical accessories and try drilling them.
Can't you polish up the speak on pannel, maybe with autosol polish
its a d-series pannel. speakon, xlr, powercon, usb, hdmi, coax, ... are axailable as d-series modules.
Have you made a video or spoken about what you do for work? It sounds like you work in a datacenter or at least have a lot of experience in networking. You should consider it if you haven't already and feel comfortable talking about it
I was hoping you'd talk a bit more about the construction of your house as that's the first thing to consider when doing this kind of project. It appears to have stud walls all over, even on outside walls? No dot and dab? Do you know what this kind of construction is called?
It's a timber framed house with an outer blockwork and render skin. Most UK new builds from large developers are now using the same system - they may look to be brick/block but that's just the outer layer, the inner structure is all timber. Most of the timber panels are assembled offsite in a factory and then they are bolted together onsite before the roof (which is also bolted togeher onsite) is then lifted on top with a crane. Afterwards the outer brick/block walls are built and tied into the inner structure. Similarly the upper floors are made of pre-fabricated panels consisting of i-joists attached to a layer of OSB, these are lifted in on top of the downstairs structure and bolted together before the upstairs walls are installed. It's impressive watching how quick this system makes it to build a house - they can go from a bare concrete slab to a completed frame in a few hours!
Is this device (Orei uhd48-ex230-k) still part of your plans for the new home?
Orei actually saw that video and off the back of that have sent me their higher end UHD88-EXB400R-K 8x8 HDBaseT matrix to use for my video distribution project. More inputs/outputs, uses the HDBaseT standard and has analogue audio outputs which I'll be feeding into the multiroom audio setup
@@camerongray1515 Cool, but did you still use the original Orei device long enough to confirm that it did the job?
🔥🔥🔥
Why didn't you change it to have individual RCD protection, here in Aus it's compulsory for every circuit to be individually RCD protected now.
Longer term that would be my plan, but the current split load arrangement is still compliant, albeit not my preference. I just wanted to keep things simple for now and will convert the consumer unit to be fully RCBO when I have more time.
Friday night. Cameron for 1 + hour while rebuilding my server rack.
One feature that might make the Brother printer even better for networking would be PoE charging 😂
Imagine… you’re on a job site and it’s run out of charge… worry not! Just plug it into any available network jack connected to a PoE switch and charge it up without having to bring a charger with you
Anyway, an incredible video that goes above and beyond some of the most impressive other homelabs I’ve seen.
just use a poe splitter.
Massive you say?
The irony of me not being able to find euro modules in Europe. 😭
16mm is excessive for a functional earth.
It probably is, however I was just working off of the guidance document linked in the description. The cable was £20 or something, not a huge cost in the overall scheme of things.
Speakon, not the best solution. This is very much for PA systems and not home audio. Considering you were trying to keep your other wires close to the wall by angling the down, you are doing completely the opposite with speakon 😵💫😵💫
Can always use 90 degree Speakon connectors on the cables plugging in to the wall?
I just wanted to try them out, I was going to use them for the patch panel at any rate so thought I'd try them behind the living room TV to see how it turned out. The angled keystones were more of a "nice to have" for various network sockets including ones behind wall mounted TVs or under desks, they aren't as big a deal for behind the living room TV cabinet where there's loads of space.
MoCA adapters would let you use double screened coax to carry TV signals as well as the Broadband.
Am I the only one with no subtitles available?
The only thing I found disturbing in this video, I have no idea what camera you are using to film these videos with, turn off auto zoom on the camera. To film your videos, take the camera outside, set the camera on a tripod, and after turning off auto focus, focus your camera at something far away, a tree or car a block away works. Now as long as you never touch your focus, any zoom level, everything is in focus.
The autofocus isn't ideal - it's a new camera I've bought just for this project (DJI Osmo Pocket 3) so I'm still getting used to it. However setting the focus to infinity (which us what you described) wouldn't really be a solution as it then won't focus on things that are up close which is what I'm trying to do here, especially since the Osmo Pocket has a pretty wide, fixed apperture lens.
As a non-english speaking person it is a little hard to understand when you speak that fast. If you speak slower, it is easier to understand and it is easier to process everything you say :)
Edit: when I set the playback speed to 0,75x in youtube it was ok
want to do a setup in my house but unfortunately it isn't really possible due to my house being really old and having brick internal walls 🥲