If you wanted extra insurance, use some anaerobic sealer at top edge of roller bearing mating surface area. Great tip, I learned something new! Thanks.
Thank you for that idea. And your welcome. I started making videos for my grandkids so hopefully they follow in my footsteps. I couldn't wait to get my block back so I could make a video about it.
Well explained to my understanding, I be joining you soon, come on let give hugh support, he really has be working hard on this vic and I want it to work out for him, I'm his wife.
Thank you, I appreciate it. These videos are for them to learn down the road if they wish. Even when I am not here anymore. The internet is forever. A few of them have even started working on the project with me, and my granddaughter wants to join as well.
What gave me the idea was my brother had recorded our mom a few months before we knew she was sick and for some reason uploaded it TH-cam. Now I am glad he did. It's only 50 seconds but somedays it's enough. I can hear her.voice and see her laugh. That's what I want for them.
@papergatorzfedducca7998 could t hurt but I stake the hole with a flathead and hammer so it can't pop back out. And the cover will hold it also so it can't move.
This would be the best case fix with the motor still in the vehicle..If i had it to do on a Bare block like this one...I would choose to tap and thread for a screw in plug...Thanks for the helpful info Brother...
I have to say this seems to be the best way no cuttings possibly falling back in to your motor if you do the threaded version no worries about the O rings failing I’m doing this to my AFM DOD delete.
I cut aluminum coke cans in circles the size of the of the tower and super glue them on. Then the vlom gasket will press on it as well. They don't blow through or come out. Or u can just put the sleeve in the oil pressure sender tower and it'll never oil again either. Always tyne the dod out if you have one that hasn't messed up yet
I tap the holes with 3/8-16 tap and put set screws in for like $5, no drilling necessary with 3/8 tap, hole is correct size. Do it with your motor disassembled or use a shop vac while drilling.
I've seen them pop out when installed like that. Should put a punch on them and tap below the surface about 1/8th of an inch and then stake the hole with a chisel punch so it can't come out.
@DieselDog358 yea I've learned when you are recording and working and talking you miss speak. I always wondered why people say wrong words when they are talking. I learned why. Lol
Not sure. You can pick up the bearings anywhere. But for what I am using them for, I didn't really care too much. I always try to get made in America unless it's something insignificant.
Man, I wish I would have found this video a few weeks ago. I was replacing my intake manifold gasket. I tightened the valley cover down I could have just smacked those in while I was there. I used HP Tuners to disable the DOD. It would of been great to have the physical stop just in case. I could do this and then replace the valley cover with the non-DOD cover couldn’t I? Thanks for the video, my bearing is on order!
@grominwithrob1339 i am also using the valley cover with the orings as a back up. Lol. That happened to me recently. I seen a easier way after I was done. I said the same thing grrrrr lol.
Your welcome. Hey for $14, I can't complain. There are people buying the bearing and cutting the cage and selling the 8nrollers for $20. The guy called it convenience lol. Uh ok. Yea sure. It took less then a minute with a cut off wheel to get it apart. And it took longer to do the video then pit the plugs in. Thank you for watching.
After these plugs , you then get a valley cover for non dod and no dod cam and lifters are push rods same ? And then a tune to just turn dod off a full tune aswell ?
I believe the push rods are different. I put new pushrods and lifters, and I am running an Ls3 Stage 2 V2 cam. Then I changed my timing cam gear to a 3 bolt. I've heard you can just turn it off in the computer. Once you change the cam, I would do a tune. There is a company out there that makes DOD delete cam that you don't have to tune it. It becomes a stock non DOD cam. No tune, just turn it off in the computer.
It takes all types to make the world go round. How ever it works for you. This took literally less then a minute to tap all of them in. It just took longer because of recording.
What found works the best is put sleeve under oil pressure sensor to block oil passage to vlom solenoids lifter failure is most often caused by bearing shavings & neglected oil changes..
This is permanent. If you think you might need to remove them, go with set screws. This is good for in the vehicle or don't have access to taps or high milage engines you just need to last a bit.longer having to do a DOD delete.
I've had others tell me the A37 brasing is across the board. That number I am not sure. There are a bunch of them with the first numbers different but are the same bearing. A-37 can be cross referenced to see if that number pops up as a replacement.
5/16 aluminum rod and a tig cap weld also works if it’s available. Remember all the oil pressure solenoids will still be pressured and may fail and leak unless you use an aftermarket valley pan. There are ways to block the hole off the stock cover from the oil pressure sensor to not have to worry about all the junk on the bottom of the stock cover. Fyi
Exactly!!! I'm going to use a non DoD valley cover that I already have with the orings. Double protection. There are so many ways to seal them now. I watched a guy with special rivets for the DoD towers. Lol. That is cool also. Technology and learning experiences is a great thing. My next one I am doing the thread and set screw. I don't always want to do it the same way. Thank you for info.
@@8SecSleeper True, but I don't trust just the o-rings to keep those towers sealed all by themselves. Prob be ok for a little bit. I'm running a high volume pump and want to sure as I can be.
Those are for the DOD ( displacement on demand) setup on the Gen 4's. They move the oil up to the VLOM ( I think it's called lol) that controls the DOD. They are not threaded. There is a bunch of ways to block them off when deleting the DOD system out of the engine. This is just another way I've seen it done.
Alot of people don't have access to a tap. I am showing another way to do it. I've also seen rivets for this. Set screws are great for an engine you plan on rebuilding a few times. This block is a one shot deal. It's good for people just trying to get their vehicle back up so they can get to work.
@@GrandPitoVic Pounding a pin in a hole, in an engine just sounds like asking for a future failure. Any hardware store will have a tap for about $6. Good luck to you.
Yea it can't go down cause its beveled. Between staking it, the valley cover and orings it won't leak. Same thing with the rivets they have out there for it now. Same principal. Pressing against the sides. If it didn't have the valley cover, I wouldn't do it for sure. But each to his own.
That's not a framing hammer. There is no waffle marks on the head. It's just a regular 22 oz hammer I used when I was doing home improvements for 7 years.
Don't need to. I have plenty. Mostly it doesn't matter what you use to get the job done. It's what was handy. I didn't feel like walking to my other shed to get another hammer. Hammers a hammer unless it's need for something specific. No matter what you do on social media someone will talk trash.
The Gen 4 and new Chevy Trucks and car have the cylinder shutdown. It's when you are at cruising speed and not under load it can shut down 4 of the 8 cylinders. Chevy and Fodge do it. Supposedly for emissions and fuel mileage. I've had people say they got they same mileage when they shut it off. It's just to at ease the EPA LOL
Lol " Just tappitey tap tap. Just tap it in he says. Just tappitey tap tap" roflmfao!!!! If you have a few years under your belt, you will remember where that came from. Lol.
If someone is savvy enough to buy the bearing, separate the rollers and sell them for this purpose then more power to them. It's called free enterprise. They aren't screwing anyone any more than someone who would buy a 3/8" tap and set screws and sell them as a package for this application. If you didn't think of it and they did, shame on you.
@@GrandPitoVic Understood. When I stated "If you didn't think of it....." it was not directed specifically to you. I probably should have said, If someone didn't think of it....... . Regards
No worries. I understand. I don't fault people for making money. It's capitalism. I was more or less pointing out the fact I had seen them. I prob should have worded it different. Being new in front of the camera, sometimes your words don't quite work out the way you wish they had. Lol.
Now had this been an engine I was going to rebuild again I would either use set screws. That way they can be removed ro clean out the oil passages. But after this unless I resleeve the whole block. It's a dud.
Great information In the video but the execution was absolutely horrible and you handling of the camera made me feel like I was sea sick for 5 minutes.
If you wanted extra insurance, use some anaerobic sealer at top edge of roller bearing mating surface area. Great tip, I learned something new! Thanks.
Thank you for that idea. And your welcome. I started making videos for my grandkids so hopefully they follow in my footsteps. I couldn't wait to get my block back so I could make a video about it.
Nice! 👌 Guys like u on TH-cam are genius! My man! Rebuilding a 5.3 out of my 2013 Silverado right now and im getting rid of this D.O.D. bullshit!
Very nice!!! I am doing a Ls3/6l90E swap into my 03'Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I hopefully will be assembling the block today.
Well explained to my understanding, I be joining you soon, come on let give hugh support, he really has be working hard on this vic and I want it to work out for him, I'm his wife.
When I heard “for my grandkids” I subscribed 🔥🔥🔥
Thank you, I appreciate it. These videos are for them to learn down the road if they wish. Even when I am not here anymore. The internet is forever. A few of them have even started working on the project with me, and my granddaughter wants to join as well.
What gave me the idea was my brother had recorded our mom a few months before we knew she was sick and for some reason uploaded it TH-cam. Now I am glad he did. It's only 50 seconds but somedays it's enough. I can hear her.voice and see her laugh. That's what I want for them.
@@GrandPitoVic 🔥🔥🔥💪🏿💪🏿💪🏿
@@GrandPitoVic will some green locktite help this?
@papergatorzfedducca7998 could t hurt but I stake the hole with a flathead and hammer so it can't pop back out. And the cover will hold it also so it can't move.
This would be the best case fix with the motor still in the vehicle..If i had it to do on a Bare block like this one...I would choose to tap and thread for a screw in plug...Thanks for the helpful info Brother...
Your welcome.
I never imagined a Chinese ball bearing would be of any use. Nice work!
I know right? Lokl
It's called a tapered roller bearing. No balls
I have to say this seems to be the best way no cuttings possibly falling back in to your motor if you do the threaded version no worries about the O rings failing I’m doing this to my AFM DOD delete.
@Johnny-jr2lq I've have seen it work well. I am still using the valley cover with the o rings for piece of mind. Why, way less work lol.
Shipping may vary, for me in Wisconsin, Rockauto has the WTA bearing for $12.07 total with shipping and tax.
NICE!!!!!
I cut aluminum coke cans in circles the size of the of the tower and super glue them on. Then the vlom gasket will press on it as well. They don't blow through or come out. Or u can just put the sleeve in the oil pressure sender tower and it'll never oil again either. Always tyne the dod out if you have one that hasn't messed up yet
We used to cut up coke cans to make head gaskets for our mopeds back in the 80s. We were kids. We didn't have money lol.
@GrampitoVic that's awesome 👌
I tap the holes with 3/8-16 tap and put set screws in for like $5, no drilling necessary with 3/8 tap, hole is correct size. Do it with your motor disassembled or use a shop vac while drilling.
That works if you have a tap and die set. If not, the price goes up quite a bit.
@@GrandPitoVic buy the one tap you need.
That's true
That’s what I was thinking, or weld the holes shut if you have the means to do so…
@GrampitoVic I don't think I ever run across a grandpa that didn't have tap set LOL !!!!!!😂
I've seen them pop out when installed like that. Should put a punch on them and tap below the surface about 1/8th of an inch and then stake the hole with a chisel punch so it can't come out.
I appreciate that.
I was just about to post the exact same thing.
I just posted a video about mapping it down and staking it to be safe
You didn't cut the race, you cut the cage! Great Video.
@DieselDog358 yea I've learned when you are recording and working and talking you miss speak. I always wondered why people say wrong words when they are talking. I learned why. Lol
Take a center punch to the cast iron at the lip after dowle is in,locks it in even more
Yes. I did a stake it video that shows just that. This one is aluminum but it works with anything you don't want coming out.
You can get the Timken 37 bearings for the same money if you prefer an American product.
Not sure. You can pick up the bearings anywhere. But for what I am using them for, I didn't really care too much. I always try to get made in America unless it's something insignificant.
I am still going to use the o-rings on the valley cover as extra insurance.
Great info!!! I was just fixing to order the 40 dollars ones.
Man, I wish I would have found this video a few weeks ago. I was replacing my intake manifold gasket. I tightened the valley cover down I could have just smacked those in while I was there. I used HP Tuners to disable the DOD. It would of been great to have the physical stop just in case. I could do this and then replace the valley cover with the non-DOD cover couldn’t I? Thanks for the video, my bearing is on order!
@@grominwithrob1339 IT happens to us all.
@grominwithrob1339 i am also using the valley cover with the orings as a back up. Lol. That happened to me recently. I seen a easier way after I was done. I said the same thing grrrrr lol.
Love the simplicity.
Thank you.
Thank you.@@GrandPitoVic
What do you do about the electrical/engine management part of the DOD system? Program ecm? Tune?
You have the DoD turned off in the ECU and a tune once you have change out the cam and lifters.
And you also have to change out the valley cover to a non DoD valley cover.
"A37" in Timken, SKF, or any brand from any local auto parts store.
That's true. It all depends on how fast you need it. Especially if you have to be to work tomorrow and your trucks broke lol.
Keep in mind cleaning that galley in the future is now more complicated.
This is true.
Awesome tip.
Thank you.
Great idea!!! Thank you
Your welcome. Hey for $14, I can't complain. There are people buying the bearing and cutting the cage and selling the 8nrollers for $20. The guy called it convenience lol. Uh ok. Yea sure. It took less then a minute with a cut off wheel to get it apart. And it took longer to do the video then pit the plugs in. Thank you for watching.
its called a 4 thousandths press fit not tapered but same thing
I bought cup plugs and knocked them, done.
After these plugs , you then get a valley cover for non dod and no dod cam and lifters are push rods same ? And then a tune to just turn dod off a full tune aswell ?
I believe the push rods are different. I put new pushrods and lifters, and I am running an Ls3 Stage 2 V2 cam. Then I changed my timing cam gear to a 3 bolt. I've heard you can just turn it off in the computer. Once you change the cam, I would do a tune. There is a company out there that makes DOD delete cam that you don't have to tune it. It becomes a stock non DOD cam. No tune, just turn it off in the computer.
@@GrandPitoVic thanks I’m going to look into the cam and tune way or maybe just by hp tuners
That's awesome!!! Go for it. It's fun to do it yourself. I love taking something for the junkyard and fix it.
Is tapping the holes for .30 cent Allen plugs not a good idea?
It takes all types to make the world go round. How ever it works for you. This took literally less then a minute to tap all of them in. It just took longer because of recording.
@@GrandPitoVic you said expensive plugs not the fast and not so secure way.
Stake the plugs and there is no way for them to back out. So unsecured is a miss statement.
Honestly just use What’s provided in the kit it’s not going to leak
How does this guy know that this method works hundred percent for sure
I've seen engines with 100k miles with those in there.
Just get a valley plate for a non dod motor…a ls3 or l96 it has o rings built in, no need to plug the towers
There's a few ways to do it. I've seen the o-rings start leaking and mess with the oil pressure.
What found works the best is put sleeve under oil pressure sensor to block oil passage to vlom solenoids lifter failure is most often caused by bearing shavings & neglected oil changes..
Good idea, 👍
Thank you.
How do you remove them if you need to
This is permanent. If you think you might need to remove them, go with set screws. This is good for in the vehicle or don't have access to taps or high milage engines you just need to last a bit.longer having to do a DOD delete.
Is the Duralast SET37 bearing the same thing ?
I've had others tell me the A37 brasing is across the board. That number I am not sure. There are a bunch of them with the first numbers different but are the same bearing. A-37 can be cross referenced to see if that number pops up as a replacement.
Get a ball peen hammer and a brass drift, for goodness sake. SMH
Thanks for the tip!
Yes if they went in any harder I would use a drift.
5/16 aluminum rod and a tig cap weld also works if it’s available. Remember all the oil pressure solenoids will still be pressured and may fail and leak unless you use an aftermarket valley pan. There are ways to block the hole off the stock cover from the oil pressure sensor to not have to worry about all the junk on the bottom of the stock cover. Fyi
Exactly!!! I'm going to use a non DoD valley cover that I already have with the orings. Double protection. There are so many ways to seal them now. I watched a guy with special rivets for the DoD towers. Lol. That is cool also. Technology and learning experiences is a great thing. My next one I am doing the thread and set screw. I don't always want to do it the same way. Thank you for info.
For $37 you get a new dod delete cover, gasket and bolts.
@@8SecSleeper True, but I don't trust just the o-rings to keep those towers sealed all by themselves. Prob be ok for a little bit. I'm running a high volume pump and want to sure as I can be.
@GrandPitoVic they aren't normal orings, they more like the valve cover gasket. I don't see them failing
@8SecSleeper The oil pump oring is the same and it fails. I'm just adding some security for myself.
Never worked on an LS, what are those bosses for? Those holes threaded?
Those are for the DOD ( displacement on demand) setup on the Gen 4's. They move the oil up to the VLOM ( I think it's called lol) that controls the DOD. They are not threaded. There is a bunch of ways to block them off when deleting the DOD system out of the engine. This is just another way I've seen it done.
If i had the engine apart, I would drill and tap and put in set screws with loctite.
Alot of people don't have access to a tap. I am showing another way to do it. I've also seen rivets for this. Set screws are great for an engine you plan on rebuilding a few times. This block is a one shot deal. It's good for people just trying to get their vehicle back up so they can get to work.
@@GrandPitoVic Pounding a pin in a hole, in an engine just sounds like asking for a future failure. Any hardware store will have a tap for about $6. Good luck to you.
Yea it can't go down cause its beveled. Between staking it, the valley cover and orings it won't leak. Same thing with the rivets they have out there for it now. Same principal. Pressing against the sides. If it didn't have the valley cover, I wouldn't do it for sure. But each to his own.
That waffle on the hammer is rough on the aluminum though
That's why you don't use a framing hammer. Regular hammers are smooth.
Do you see any fuggin waffle marks???
That's not a framing hammer. There is no waffle marks on the head. It's just a regular 22 oz hammer I used when I was doing home improvements for 7 years.
@@GrandPitoVic again, I was asking MississippiDan1 if HE seen any waffle marks!!!
I was replying to Mississippi as well. It's running down the same thread so I guess it goes to all 3.
Use the savings to buy a decent hammer. So you have one to do mechanical work and one for carpentry.
Don't need to. I have plenty. Mostly it doesn't matter what you use to get the job done. It's what was handy. I didn't feel like walking to my other shed to get another hammer. Hammers a hammer unless it's need for something specific. No matter what you do on social media someone will talk trash.
It's an Estwing, it is an expensive hammer 😂
Yes sir!!!
They don't sell dowel pins on this planet?
Yes they sell dowels. For the heads you mean?
What's a dod. Pretty sure it's not department of defense.
No sir. Displacement on Demand
@@GrandPitoVic Not sure what that means.
The Gen 4 and new Chevy Trucks and car have the cylinder shutdown. It's when you are at cruising speed and not under load it can shut down 4 of the 8 cylinders. Chevy and Fodge do it. Supposedly for emissions and fuel mileage. I've had people say they got they same mileage when they shut it off. It's just to at ease the EPA LOL
Dodge not Fodge. Friggin phone lol
@@GrandPitoVic Thank you.
You go grandpido
Yup
Dope 👌🏽
Appreciate you
Tap tap got it!
Lol " Just tappitey tap tap. Just tap it in he says. Just tappitey tap tap" roflmfao!!!! If you have a few years under your belt, you will remember where that came from. Lol.
If someone is savvy enough to buy the bearing, separate the rollers and sell them for this purpose then more power to them. It's called free enterprise. They aren't screwing anyone any more than someone who would buy a 3/8" tap and set screws and sell them as a package for this application. If you didn't think of it and they did, shame on you.
Not downing anyone, I'm just pointing it out.
@@GrandPitoVic Understood. When I stated "If you didn't think of it....." it was not directed specifically to you. I probably should have said, If someone didn't think of it....... .
Regards
No worries. I understand. I don't fault people for making money. It's capitalism. I was more or less pointing out the fact I had seen them. I prob should have worded it different. Being new in front of the camera, sometimes your words don't quite work out the way you wish they had. Lol.
@@GrandPitoVicthat jack ars was try to talk sh!t to you...
I've never plugged them 🤔🤷♂️
First time I plugged them too. First Ls lol.
Now had this been an engine I was going to rebuild again I would either use set screws. That way they can be removed ro clean out the oil passages. But after this unless I resleeve the whole block. It's a dud.
Nice going 2 use this method ive already had lifters give out on me 4 times
Good deal. I've seen it work well. Good luck.
Sorry misread this. I've seen it work a few times this way with no issues. I am still going to run the valley cover with the orings as well.
Me 2 as well just want extra protection @@GrandPitoVic
Nexer trust anyone that uses a carpenter's hammer while working on an engine.
Hammers a hammer unless your using a ball pen hammer. One side is still the same.
Never trust anyone who thinks am the type of hammer matters for this.
Parts geek has them for 9 $
Nice!!!
Great information In the video but the execution was absolutely horrible and you handling of the camera made me feel like I was sea sick for 5 minutes.
Yea was being a newbie. But thank you. Didn't have a tripod at the rime.
Great !
Thank you