Maybe 22 screws is where they got the 22 model from lol. Either way diff access sucks on that buggy as well as servo access. You literally have to take the entire front end off just to connect your servo horn. Horrible design but nice buggy. I like mine
i leave the .5 screws in and that will hold the c and d block down so you don't need to mess with the arms. you can lift the transmission with those still in. still a pain
Hi, great video. I just swapped my ball diff for a gear diff, and found you really don’t need to take everything off to get to it. I managed to leave the C & D blocks in place and the slipper/spur assembly too, you can just undo the 3 bolts in the gear box case and take one half off. Still not ideal, a split case to get at the diff would be better as you said.
I'm new to rc, I run an old Schumacher touring car, but I guess that having done maintenance on my old 70s harley for years, I find maintenance on these rc cars pretty easy 😅, but thanks for your videos they are helpful!
Good video and something they hopefully will fix in the 6.0! BTW, you can normally just leave the C/D blocks there with the 0.05" screws. Also, I find it easier to remove the front waterfall screws and leave the whole slipper and motor plate attached if you don't mind the motor wires still connected to the chassis while you split the transmission.
That’s great for not having to open it up often, but might handle poorly for track use. I noticed the new 22 5.0 DC RTR that TLR just announced has a gear diff instead of the ball Diff, check what the setup is they decided on using. I’ve not looked it up.
It's worse than you think... we've got to go through all that disassembly to change the axle height. Ball diffs usually go a while without needing service, but if you can't tune axle height at the trans without taking the transmission completely apart, that's a big problem!
Awesome video👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 too many balls 😃, very informative, plan to get the same kit, learning the difficulty of getting the diff, might see other kit option, thanks for making this video👍🏻
You can, but for clay tracks a ball diff usually performs better. If you are on astroturf/carpet put a gear diff in. Either way, getting the diff out to change fluid is a lot of screws and TLR still hasn’t updated the design for quick access.
Thank you for a great video. I have a 22x4 and was surprised that losi did such a great job with it. Was looking at the 22 5 and the 22sct but now will look at associated b6.2 and the sc6.2 instead. Losi realy needs to step up with the split diff and easy steering maintenance. The no hole ball ends would be nice but if a 1/8 hole drilled will work i can live with that. I have had issues with the ball end plastic breaking while adjusting tue 22x4 before finishing it. Just one broke. Their plastic sucks. Could have just been a bad cast. Keep up the good work
I totally agree, the 22 is a pain to work on.....I have a 4.0, but there are not a whole lot of things that are different. Though mine does have ball cups with holes in the top for easy position changes. The steering IS a major pain to work on, and if you have a 4.0 with 5.0 front arms, you have to watch for the knuckle hitting the arm in turns under load or compression. Great bit of info sir!
It is a very good car and the value for money is high compared to competition with all that aluminum and titanium in ELITE. Just I have some maintenance and tuning complaints with this platform after you build it.
Holy shit. Been looking at TLR for some time now. Looking good but not anymore :) In my XB2 i remove wing, 2 screw and 6 screw later its out. I drive on carpet and change (have 2, different oils) diff in 5min on track.
Gear diffs can be in service a lot longer. They suggest replacing oil once in a brand new Diff to get filings out but I’ve left it and it was fine in my 4WD race cars and trucks.
Waiting on a few things to start my B74.1D, I need to pick up wd - 40 dirt and dust resistant dry lube for my plastic. Plus getting a Ace Gen Battery and a Maclan 13.5t motor off one of are racer. Plus a Hobbywing Xr10 pro Gen 2 with WiFi card :) happy servo be the 1258 soon to come..
The WD40 Dry Lube PTFE Spray can be used after you build. Don't spray the parts first, do it after. That stuff just helps keep dirt from sticking and keeping it look clean longer. Enjoy the build.
I don’t think it’s good for skin contact so no I wouldn’t do that. Just when it’s all done I spray the arms, suspension, bottom of chassis. It helps keep it cleaner longer.
I find it to be a lot easier when rebuilding your ball diff to have your diff screw on your hex driver vertically, drop your thrust washer assembly down on top of the screw, then drop your outdrive on over that. Should help keep you from losing your thrust balls vs when you put them in the way you showed in the video.
Besides me holding it with my finger thats similar to how I tried it attempt 1 in this video. I knocked two balls off with the outdrive. Practice makes perfect! But I hope to not have to rebuild that often. I just did it now because I was missing a ball from the kit build. I never did find it. But we are back to 6 now!
@@netcruzer protek Rc also makes a ceramic captured thrust bearing assembly for the AE cars that will also work with the TLR buggies. One of my buddies runs that and it works well for him.
I have to get that micro Grabit, man that would be super useful. I think with all of that labor, I would never maintenance the rear diff! That's insane! Taking it apart is one thing but the reassembly.... oh man. Very labor intensive. Just curious what camera your using these days. Great video!
Yeah that grabit tool has saved me hours of agrivation. No having to slot heads with a dremel anymore! I use a mix of cameras but these workshop vids are Canon M6. I had EV comp boosted a bit too high on this one as the Tekno EB410.2 video clips looked too dark to me. Kit lens 15-45mm mostly but I have other lenses.
LOL. It's very odd, 5 major revisions of this car and no quick diff access. Seriously TLR? Now Gil Losi Jr is back consulting so I hope the 6.0 improves on all this.
Maybe 22 screws is where they got the 22 model from lol. Either way diff access sucks on that buggy as well as servo access. You literally have to take the entire front end off just to connect your servo horn. Horrible design but nice buggy. I like mine
100% Truth right here folks! LOL It is possible to get transmission out less than 22, maybe 13-15 is possible if you leave the arms on.
Guess I'm going with the lc10b5.
i leave the .5 screws in and that will hold the c and d block down so you don't need to mess with the arms. you can lift the transmission with those still in. still a pain
Hi, great video.
I just swapped my ball diff for a gear diff, and found you really don’t need to take everything off to get to it.
I managed to leave the C & D blocks in place and the slipper/spur assembly too, you can just undo the 3 bolts in the gear box case and take one half off.
Still not ideal, a split case to get at the diff would be better as you said.
I'm new to rc, I run an old Schumacher touring car, but I guess that having done maintenance on my old 70s harley for years, I find maintenance on these rc cars pretty easy 😅, but thanks for your videos they are helpful!
Great video
Make some in depth videos like this with the eb410.2 ??
For maintenance I almost never have to do anything to them besides cleaning and oil weight changes for tuning. But if something comes up I’ll show it!
Good video and something they hopefully will fix in the 6.0! BTW, you can normally just leave the C/D blocks there with the 0.05" screws. Also, I find it easier to remove the front waterfall screws and leave the whole slipper and motor plate attached if you don't mind the motor wires still connected to the chassis while you split the transmission.
You're speaking truth, it is definitely easier this way.
Same issue here. 22 screws. For this reason I'm thinking of switching to the G2 Gear diff with 500,000cst silicon oil.
That’s great for not having to open it up often, but might handle poorly for track use. I noticed the new 22 5.0 DC RTR that TLR just announced has a gear diff instead of the ball Diff, check what the setup is they decided on using. I’ve not looked it up.
this video uses the word balls how many times? lol i love it
It's worse than you think... we've got to go through all that disassembly to change the axle height. Ball diffs usually go a while without needing service, but if you can't tune axle height at the trans without taking the transmission completely apart, that's a big problem!
Agreed, anything related to transmission service and tuning on this needs trans out, which is not up to par anymore for a race car.
Thanks for another great video. I was putting this off on my 22.50 for the same reason don't really feel like rebuilding my buggy. thanks
Associated b6.2. 2x m3 nuts holding the shocks 2x ball links and 5 screws and u can take it out.
Awesome video👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 too many balls 😃, very informative, plan to get the same kit, learning the difficulty of getting the diff, might see other kit option, thanks for making this video👍🏻
Nice video man. Thanks for doing it. This is a bear to do . Your video really helped
I swapped out the ball diff for the gear diff even though i run on clay. I just like to set it and forget it!
Can you use a gear diff instead of a ball diff?
You can, but for clay tracks a ball diff usually performs better. If you are on astroturf/carpet put a gear diff in. Either way, getting the diff out to change fluid is a lot of screws and TLR still hasn’t updated the design for quick access.
Thank you for a great video. I have a 22x4 and was surprised that losi did such a great job with it. Was looking at the 22 5 and the 22sct but now will look at associated b6.2 and the sc6.2 instead. Losi realy needs to step up with the split diff and easy steering maintenance. The no hole ball ends would be nice but if a 1/8 hole drilled will work i can live with that. I have had issues with the ball end plastic breaking while adjusting tue 22x4 before finishing it. Just one broke. Their plastic sucks. Could have just been a bad cast. Keep up the good work
When’s the 6.0 being released?
Thinking about putting a gear diff in my 22 5.0 SR.....just for the ease of maintenace......I run it on turf.
I totally agree, the 22 is a pain to work on.....I have a 4.0, but there are not a whole lot of things that are different. Though mine does have ball cups with holes in the top for easy position changes. The steering IS a major pain to work on, and if you have a 4.0 with 5.0 front arms, you have to watch for the knuckle hitting the arm in turns under load or compression. Great bit of info sir!
You don't need to take the d and c mount off when your dismounting the transmission
That’s correct it would save 6 screws. If imagine it’s a lot trickier to slip that transmission off though getting around them.
@@netcruzer its pretty easy actually I owned the same car
Licas red N tacky so afr is the best against wear. Project farm did a video comparing greases
INSIDE the ball diff? Seems like that stuff would be good on the gears outside. you don't want sticky/tacky inside the ball diff.
Just got my new 22 elite kit delivered 3 hours ago
Just reading the manual
It is a very good car and the value for money is high compared to competition with all that aluminum and titanium in ELITE. Just I have some maintenance and tuning complaints with this platform after you build it.
i wonder what tlr would have to say about this?
Holy shit. Been looking at TLR for some time now. Looking good but not anymore :) In my XB2 i remove wing, 2 screw and 6 screw later its out. I drive on carpet and change (have 2, different oils) diff in 5min on track.
I installed a gear diff into my SCT about 6 months ago. Suffice to say no tuning has been done since.
Gear diffs can be in service a lot longer. They suggest replacing oil once in a brand new Diff to get filings out but I’ve left it and it was fine in my 4WD race cars and trucks.
Jconcepts has a nice thrush washer design and a lot easier to work with.
Is there a way to get away from the balls like a sealed bearing?
Waiting on a few things to start my B74.1D, I need to pick up wd - 40 dirt and dust resistant dry lube for my plastic. Plus getting a Ace Gen Battery and a Maclan 13.5t motor off one of are racer. Plus a Hobbywing Xr10 pro Gen 2 with WiFi card :) happy servo be the 1258 soon to come..
The WD40 Dry Lube PTFE Spray can be used after you build. Don't spray the parts first, do it after. That stuff just helps keep dirt from sticking and keeping it look clean longer. Enjoy the build.
@@netcruzer will do thank you for info was going to spray all plastics first lol 😂 🤣
I don’t think it’s good for skin contact so no I wouldn’t do that. Just when it’s all done I spray the arms, suspension, bottom of chassis. It helps keep it cleaner longer.
@@netcruzer sounds good to me
I find it to be a lot easier when rebuilding your ball diff to have your diff screw on your hex driver vertically, drop your thrust washer assembly down on top of the screw, then drop your outdrive on over that. Should help keep you from losing your thrust balls vs when you put them in the way you showed in the video.
Besides me holding it with my finger thats similar to how I tried it attempt 1 in this video. I knocked two balls off with the outdrive. Practice makes perfect! But I hope to not have to rebuild that often. I just did it now because I was missing a ball from the kit build. I never did find it. But we are back to 6 now!
@@netcruzer protek Rc also makes a ceramic captured thrust bearing assembly for the AE cars that will also work with the TLR buggies. One of my buddies runs that and it works well for him.
You don't need to remove the right side of the diff case, just the left side, the whole diff change out from ball to gear takes me less than 10 min.
Hello, you mentioned that you was not going to go with the TLR due to maintanance issue. Can i ask what you would of gone with instead?
Associated or XRay or Kyosho.
I have to get that micro Grabit, man that would be super useful. I think with all of that labor, I would never maintenance the rear diff! That's insane! Taking it apart is one thing but the reassembly.... oh man. Very labor intensive. Just curious what camera your using these days. Great video!
Yeah that grabit tool has saved me hours of agrivation. No having to slot heads with a dremel anymore! I use a mix of cameras but these workshop vids are Canon M6. I had EV comp boosted a bit too high on this one as the Tekno EB410.2 video clips looked too dark to me. Kit lens 15-45mm mostly but I have other lenses.
@@netcruzer - Very nice. Some crystal clear close-ups on the parts etc. Great looking camera
All that just to get to the diff? Even my Tamiya Top Force has quick ball diff access and it's a 30 year old rig lol
LOL. It's very odd, 5 major revisions of this car and no quick diff access. Seriously TLR? Now Gil Losi Jr is back consulting so I hope the 6.0 improves on all this.
@@netcruzer Nice..Gil is the man!
I do not like ball diffs