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Make Your Car or Truck RUN FOREVER! (Start Up & Shut Down HABITS) | AnthonyJ350
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2021
- Driving Habits are just as important as maintenance intervals. In this video we go over some simple habits you can take on to help get more life out of your engine.
#Maintenance #ColdStart #HeatSoak
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About AnthonyJ350
I am a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional 12 Volt Installer (MECP Certified), Business Management Graduate (KPU), with a Professional Driver's License and a genuine automotive enthusiast who loves working on vehicles and I want to share my experiences with you. The goal is to help other people who can hopefully learn from my unique outlook towards vehicles, experiences and working practices.
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Make Your Car or Truck RUN FOREVER! (Start Up & Shut Down HABITS) | AnthonyJ350
• Make Your Car or Truck...
ANTHONYJ350
/ anthonyj350
I listen to a full kendrick lamar album before I start driving my Z
Lmao
That's one way to do it 🤷♂️
😼.
Thank you. Appreciate the tips and upload
Thanks for watching 🙂
A good fuel system should not have fuel starvation to promote an extended start unless the vehicle has been sitting for extended period of time. I do agree agree, after starting you should drive a near idle/low RPMs for 30 seconds or so. Avoid any WOT until coolant temperature is at NORMAL setting. Turning off the car, if possible drive the car like Grandma for the last 30 seconds, allowing the air flow to cool down any excess heat. It will cool down the car quicker than sitting at idle. And most importantly, use only 100% synthetic oils. Also use a quality coolant with Water Wetter or ICE to promote better heat exchange of your coolant. Anything more , IMHO it's just a placido effect.
I don't know about Water Wetter. Every time I used it, the vehicle would develop a small water pump leak. I didn't use it in the Silverado or 350Z, just upgraded the radiators instead to full aluminum house units from Mishimoto.
@@AnthonyJ350 I've never had any issues with Red Line Water Wetter, but independent studies show that Royal Purple Ice is better. It not only helps with heat transfer but it provides additional water pump lubricant and anti corrosive properties. Here in Florida, heat transfer is important. Nothing will last forever, but you can slow down wear dramatically.
Fuel injected engines (and choked carb engines) cold idle higher due to the rich fuel air charge given to them to compensate for fuel condensation that happens on cold combustion chamber walls. If the engine was given a perfect fuel air charge that would produce a speed of 700rpm when hot, the fuel condensation would lean out the charge so much that it would stall. Same concept for a choke. The choke restricts air to richen the mix and account for that fuel lost from the charge to condensation. Liquid gasoline doesn't burn, only vapor does, so condensed gas is useless in an engine (and it's actually harmful since it washes lube oil off pistons and cylinder walls). Giving the engine a rich fuel air charge in open loop and running it faster guarantees that it won't stall. Until the O2 sensors warm up, the computer is flying blind on an open loop pre-determined map that it knows will start the engine and prevent it from stalling. Once those O2 sensors heat up and start giving useful data, the computer goes into closed loop because it can then perfectly mix combustion stoichiometry at any temperature and the idle speed drops down to the minimum needed to run smoothly and overcome the additional parasitic losses of cold oil and cold accessories if applicable. The computers do in fact hold off on gear changes a little later while the engine is cold. By holding each gear a little longer, the average engine RPM is higher and that means more exhaust flow and more heat & hydrocarbons passing through the catalyst. The only reason the computers hold gears longer is to heat up the catalytic converter so that it ignites and starts catalyzing harmful emissions as soon as possible. Many vehicles will also prevent torque converter clutch lockup until the engine and catalyst are warmed up to a certain point. If there are double or triple overdrive ratios, the computer may even lock out the second or third OD to keep cruising RPMs higher until the catalyst starts working. Another thing to consider during a cold start and cold driving (ignoring the obvious initial oil starvation until pressure up) is the cold oil flow restriction and the oil filter bypass until the engine oil gets to operating temperature. Pressure is the result of resistance to flow. Oil pressure is high when cold because the thick oil does not want to flow through the oil passages and bearings. The oil pump is fixed displacement so it'll produce very high pressures trying to pump cold oil. For that reason, a high pressure bypass is usually included in the lube circuit which vents the excess volume of pumped oil back to the oil pan when pressure is too high. That means that the oil pump may only be able to flow enough volume of oil to properly lubricate the bearings up to a certain RPM while the engine is cold. That RPM may be 3,000, or it could be 2,000 depending on the grade of oil and temperature. That's why thin cold viscosity grades are best. Even a 0W-xx oil is too thick when cold, but it's much less viscous than a 5W-xx or 10W-xx when cold which is good for pumping it at the necessary volume when cold. So, it's important to keep in mind that with cold oil, the pump can only move so much oil volume before the pressure rises to the bypass vent pressure and the volume no longer increases. If that point is at 3,000 RPM with 0W-30 oil, then at 3,500 RPM the oil film barrier that "floats" the journal in the bearing shell breaks down and you have metal on metal contact which causes wear. The engine will be protected as long as the cold oil can still be pumped at a sufficient flow rate and pressure to allow the bearings to maintain a complete oil film barrier between metal surfaces. Driving gently is very important when cold, and using the thinnest cold grade number is best too. It makes no sense to use a 10W-30 today when 0W-30 and 0W-40 oils exist. Yes, the greater difference in grade numbers leads to increased VI content, but modern chemistry is fantastic. 0W oil grades pump easier when cold and pressure up faster which protects the engine best. A 0W-30 and 5W-30 will be the same viscosity when hot since both oils will not decrease viscosity any less than a straight 30 oil at operating temp. Has the viscosity of and pumps like a straight 0 when cold, has the viscosity of and pumps like a straight 30 when at operating temp. Straight 30 is way too thick when cold, and straight 0 is way too thin when hot. The other part of this cold bypass topic is the oil filter as well. Oil filters bypass when cold because they present a huge flow restriction when cold oil is pumped through them. Pressure skyrockets and therefore flow plummets when cold oil is pumped through a filter, so to prevent bearing starvation the oil is bypassed around the filter and dirty oil gets pumped to the bearings until the oil heats up enough and thins out enough to be pumped through the filter without resisting too much and decreasing flow. Of course, we want all oil going to the bearings and lifters and oil squirters and VVT phasers to be perfectly clean, so bypassing the filter is undesired. Again, using the easiest-to-pump oil when cold and limiting engine RPM (and therefore the amount of oil the oil pump tries to flow) will keep the resistance to flow low and allow the oil to pass through the oil filter before going to the engine lube circuit. Your points on shutdown delay are valid but I'd add to just make sure your cooling system is in proper working order to facilitate non-moving cooling. By that I mean, make sure your viscous fan clutch works perfectly, your electric or aux fans work correctly, your temp sensors are still in range and accurate, your radiator and condenser and trans cooler are nice and clean inside and out, and your water pump is in good shape and isn't corroded. Viscous fan clutches can stop working well eventually and then you end up with inadequate air flow when parked. Aux or electric fans not working are the same problem. Out of range sensors give false temp readings for fan activation points and gauge display. Dirty radiating devices with debris in the fins or in the internal tubing won't reject heat acceptably when parked with the minimum airflow provided by the fans. Corroded water pump impellers won't move a sufficient volume of coolant at idle to cool the block and head. The radiating devices see much more airflow when the vehicle is moving through the air at speeds over 20mph or so, so if your viscous fan clutch or electric fan isn't working for example, it would be better to drive gently at low RPM around 25-30mph for a few minutes before parking and shutting it off than it would be to drive normally and then park it running for a few minutes where it builds up more heat that isn't rejected at a standstill. Delaying shutdown is CRITICAL for turbocharged vehicles that were driven hard or under a modest load before being parked. If your workplace is 2 minutes away from the highway exit of a 75mph highway and you live 30 minutes away on that highway, you really shouldn't shut the car off right away. That turbo was producing boost and running almost red hot for the whole 30 minutes at 75mph and that cassette needs to be cooled off with no load oil circulation or it'll bake the oil in the bearing into an oxidized gunk. Turbo timers are made specifically for the ADHD people like me who would lose their mind or be late for work sitting in a car for 5 minutes while the turbo cools off. The turbo timer delays disconnection of the ignition when the key is turned off and removed so you can lock the vehicle and walk away while it's still running for those 5 minutes. After 5 minutes is up, the timer kills the engine and the car is already secured. In my opinion, every single turbo car should have a turbo timer. We're seeing grocery getters now with tiny engines that have totally had their socks boosted off to comply with efficiency standards and deliver the power that Average Joe is used to. Average Joe might not be an enthusiast who beats on the car a lil for some smiles before and after work, but he still has a tiny engine and a tiny turbo that's working hard boosting that engine all the time and it's no different than the guy with the turbo K swap Civic who drives hard and fast. Average Joe doesn't know that he's cooking that cassette oil though, and manufacturers of the grocery getters would NEVER install a timer as factory because a timer decreases MPG and overall efficiency. Idling = 0 MPG. Instead, they do things like DEXOS to try to ensure the oil in the engine is less vulnerable to cooking in that cassette bearing when Joe parks it and shuts it right off. 🤷🏻♂️ It works, but a timer is ideal.
If you made it to this point, I love you.
Thanks so much for your input! It's probably the longest comment I've ever seen lol
@@AnthonyJ350 I have a problem. My friend accused me just a few weeks ago of always writing novels. 😸 Guilty as charged, lock me up! 😭
Hey brother, you got a loyal longtime subscriber here. I have a few questions. I have a 2012 Sierra 1500 sle 5.3 with the 6 speed 6l80e. I put the MSD blaster coil packs on and there is no check engine light or any stumble. But I am curious if I’m holding back the full potential of the MSD by not having the upgraded MSD harness on it, I have and still are contemplating getting it. Also if I disable torque upshift management, will I gain any throttle response or performance? Thanks brother. Keep the videos coming.
It's definitely worth putting the harness in for the thicker wire, it's preventative maintenance in my books.
Throttle response will depend on the tune, torque management reduces power a bit (through timing I believe) between shifts. I used to have it off but have it back on because I didn't want to abuse the drive train. It depends on what you're doing with the truck. Is it a daily or a weekend pavement pounder?
Here's my video on that harness th-cam.com/video/vJea4w731_Y/w-d-xo.html
@@AnthonyJ350 It’s my daily driver. Thanks again bro.
@@johnwilson1784 You're welcome, I would leave torque management on but maybe firm up the shifts a little. I have a shift kit in my truck and it's tuned with HP Tuners.
Every now and then I "WOT"for a few seconds,just to feel the awesome power"4th gen Ram.
Opening it up a little bit is always fun!
@@AnthonyJ350 Indeed,when that Hemi kicks in and I hear that swoosh sound,its empowering 😼.
@@dimensionexo. Nice! I'm more of an LS guy myself.
@@AnthonyJ350 Kool.